From v6spitfireguy at cox.net  Fri Oct 10 06:34:05 2008
From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net)
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2008 08:34:05 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Just a test, no mail for a couple of days-------
Message-ID: <380-220081051012345798@M2W016.mail2web.com>

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From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net  Sat Oct 11 12:43:40 2008
From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Berger Bob)
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 13:43:40 -0500
Subject: [Spits] Stromberg Vacuum Ports
In-Reply-To: <6CB7D22CC680407A9BF1FD013F8C9998@yourb27fb1c401>
References: <48e59a8f.1917400a.419f.4951@mx.google.com>
	<6CB7D22CC680407A9BF1FD013F8C9998@yourb27fb1c401>
Message-ID: <25EA024C-FDD3-4688-BB2C-5737DFD4C48B@sbcglobal.net>

All,

The single Stromberg carb I have on my car has the vacuum port on the  
bottom.  Is this a port that will have vacuum at idle? or at speed?

This carb is not original to my car.  The distributor is original and  
I have an original Opus ignition that works, I'm just trying to  
figure out if this vacuum port will work with the stock vacuum retard  
unit.

I currently have this disconnected and the timing set to 10deg Before  
TDC.

Thanks for your help.

Berger Bob
78 Spitfire
St. Louis, MO

From superluke at execulink.com  Sat Oct 11 15:28:19 2008
From: superluke at execulink.com (Luke Lewis)
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 17:28:19 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Stromberg Vacuum Ports
References: <48e59a8f.1917400a.419f.4951@mx.google.com><6CB7D22CC680407A9BF1FD013F8C9998@yourb27fb1c401>
	<25EA024C-FDD3-4688-BB2C-5737DFD4C48B@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <0D7B2DAD933F4AB38C329099AD6FB20B@Kickass>

Check where the port is open to.  If it's open to the inside of the 
butterfly, it has max vacuum at idle.  If the butterfly passes it as it 
opens, it doesn't get vacuum until you're under load.

> All,
>
> The single Stromberg carb I have on my car has the vacuum port on the
> bottom.  Is this a port that will have vacuum at idle? or at speed?
>
> This carb is not original to my car.  The distributor is original and
> I have an original Opus ignition that works, I'm just trying to
> figure out if this vacuum port will work with the stock vacuum retard
> unit.
>
> I currently have this disconnected and the timing set to 10deg Before
> TDC.
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Berger Bob
> 78 Spitfire
> St. Louis, MO
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From doug at dougbraun.com  Sat Oct 11 17:04:30 2008
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 16:04:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] Stromberg Vacuum Ports
In-Reply-To: <0D7B2DAD933F4AB38C329099AD6FB20B@Kickass>
Message-ID: <803535.78525.qm@web604.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Yes, the MK IV models had a somewhat unusual "vacuum
retard" system.  There was vacuum only at idle.  The
point was to retard the timing at idle for emissions
reduction.  Any time your foot was on the gas, there
was effectively no vacuum control of the timing.

If you have this type of carb, and you connect the
vacuum port to a distributor with a normal vacuum
advance, it will cause only trouble.

Doug

--- Luke Lewis <superluke at execulink.com> wrote:

> Check where the port is open to.  If it's open to
> the inside of the 
> butterfly, it has max vacuum at idle.  If the
> butterfly passes it as it 
> opens, it doesn't get vacuum until you're under
> load.

From parrotthead01 at comcast.net  Sun Oct 12 16:06:22 2008
From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net (Daniel Parrott)
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 18:06:22 -0400
Subject: [Spits] DCOE's for a Spit 6
Message-ID: <000301c92cb6$c3b8ada0$4b2a08e0$@net>

I'm considering upgrading to triple DCOE carbs for my Spit Six project car
while I'm at it.  However, I found several references that simple state "the
bonnet will have to be cut" to accommodate the carbs.  Does anyone have any
experience here?  I wouldn't mind a small hood scoop (sized like the bulge
in the TR-4's bonnet to clear the SU's), but I don't want something too
large.

 

Any ideas, thoughts?

 

Dan Parrott

1980 Triumph 1500 "PJ"

1973-1978 Spit Six (in progress

From elliottr at rmi.net  Sun Oct 12 17:07:38 2008
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 18:07:38 -0500
Subject: [Spits] Tach Rebuild
Message-ID: <48F2833A.50507@rmi.net>

Hi  Everyone,

It appears that it is time to have my wife's TR250 tach rebuilt.  The 
tach pegs at idle or close to it.

What is general recommendation these days?

Nisonger, MoMa (I have seen this name but not any contact info) or West 
Valley Instrument Specialists?

Or some other one?

Thanks,

Roger Elliott

From rdambra1 at rochester.rr.com  Mon Oct 13 11:25:57 2008
From: rdambra1 at rochester.rr.com (rdambra1 at rochester.rr.com)
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 13:25:57 -0400
Subject: [Spits] (no subject)
Message-ID: <1207843.1980311223918757993.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web18-z02>

 Thanks to Nick, Paul-Ernest, and everyone on the Spitfire forum, 
I did finally get the block onto its engine stand last night. Here's the before 
and after pics.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of Block 003.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of Triumph Spitfire 008.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of Triumph Spitfire 001.jpg]

From nmoseley at dccnet.com  Mon Oct 13 11:48:03 2008
From: nmoseley at dccnet.com (Nick Moseley)
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 10:48:03 -0700
Subject: [Spits] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <1207843.1980311223918757993.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web18-z02>
References: <1207843.1980311223918757993.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web18-z02>
Message-ID: <E7DA3227B9324239A1B90FF55E5030A7@yourb27fb1c401>

Way to go!!!

Congratulations!

Now even more fun can begin. Looks nice and shiny already.

Nick Moseley

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
rdambra1 at rochester.rr.com
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 10:26 AM
To: Spitfires at autox.team.net
Cc: nmosely at dccnet.com; pelevesq at globetrotter.net
Subject: [Spits] (no subject)

 Thanks to Nick, Paul-Ernest, and everyone on the Spitfire forum, 
I did finally get the block onto its engine stand last night. Here's the
before 
and after pics.

From nmoseley at dccnet.com  Mon Oct 13 11:52:29 2008
From: nmoseley at dccnet.com (Nick Moseley)
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 10:52:29 -0700
Subject: [Spits] Temp Thermostat threads
Message-ID: <B78B2BF5CC9D42C281D7F895BDC1A4DA@yourb27fb1c401>

Sorry for the cross posts.

 

Did different water pump housings have different threads (imperial vs metric
or?) for the temp thermostats?

I'm still making slow progress on the project engine replacement, and found
that the thermostat from one head, will not thread into the housing on the
new engine.

Any suggestions? 

 

Nick Moseley, NASS #278,

76-81 Spits, GT6, Metro Vancouver B.C.

From smacsjunk at hotmail.com  Mon Oct 13 13:32:36 2008
From: smacsjunk at hotmail.com (scotts junk)
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 14:32:36 -0500
Subject: [Spits] DCOE's for a Spit 6
In-Reply-To: <000301c92cb6$c3b8ada0$4b2a08e0$@net>
References: <000301c92cb6$c3b8ada0$4b2a08e0$@net>
Message-ID: <BAY139-W19E7EEF2E6D9725685BC58BA360@phx.gbl>

hi Dan

First off, if you aren't looking at building a full race engine, be aware that
going to triple DCOEs will be a strictly cosmetic change and may even result
in a loss of performance (can you say "bog") and poor milage (at least without
a LOT of tuning). The extra airflow that triple Webers can supply is only an
asset at very high RPMs that will require extensive headwork, a hot cam, valve
train mods, headers,etc. to produce any power beyond what what your stock
carbs, or a pair of HS6s or ZS 1.75s can produce (much simpler and less
expensive modification).

That being said (I have no objection to eye candy as long as the owner is
aware that that's what his shiny bits are), there are six cylinder Triumph
manifolds for Webers made specifically for the GT6 (and Spit6) which angle the
front carb down to allow for hood clearance. I believe Triumph Tune among
others sells these - they also come up ocassionally on e-BAY.

cheers
Scott> Subject: [Spits] DCOE's for a Spit 6> > I'm considering upgrading to
triple DCOE carbs for my Spit Six project car> while I'm at it. However, I
found several references that simple state "the> bonnet will have to be cut"
to accommodate the carbs. Does anyone have any> experience here? I wouldn't
mind a small hood scoop (sized like the bulge> in the TR-4's bonnet to clear
the SU's), but I don't want something too> large.>> Any ideas, thoughts?> >
Dan Parrott
_________________________________________________________________

From rdambra1 at rochester.rr.com  Mon Oct 13 13:48:08 2008
From: rdambra1 at rochester.rr.com (rdambra1 at rochester.rr.com)
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 15:48:08 -0400
Subject: [Spits] the block, finally on its stand, freshly painted
Message-ID: <6858326.1639331223927288551.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web16-z02>

 Thanks to Nick Mosely, Paul-Ernest, and everyone on the Spitfire forum, 
I did finally get the block onto its engine stand last night. Here's the 
before and after pics.
Bob D

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of Block 003.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of Triumph Spitfire 008.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of Triumph Spitfire 001.jpg]

From my79spitfire at aol.com  Mon Oct 13 14:18:41 2008
From: my79spitfire at aol.com (my79spitfire at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 16:18:41 -0400
Subject: [Spits] DCOE's for a Spit 6
In-Reply-To: <mailman.11.1223920801.20376.spitfires@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.11.1223920801.20376.spitfires@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CAFB8805098444-518-18D6@webmail-dd08.sysops.aol.com>

 Dan,

I think you will find that the only reason to cut the bonnet would be if you purchased a TR6 manifold with the triple DCOEs.? It is my understanding that the GT6 manifold is angled down at the front to accommodate the bonnet slope.

Geof Bush
Michigan
'79 Spitfire 1500
'81 Canadian Spitfire 1500
'73 GT6 MKIII donor for CGT6 project



--------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 18:06:22 -0400
From: "Daniel Parrott" <parrotthead01 at comcast.net>
Subject: [Spits] DCOE's for a Spit 6
To: "'spitfires'" <spitfires at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000301c92cb6$c3b8ada0$4b2a08e0$@net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I'm considering upgrading to triple DCOE carbs for my Spit Six project car
while I'm at it.  However, I found several references that simple state "the
bonnet will have to be cut" to accommodate the carbs.  Does anyone have any
experience here?  I wouldn't mind a small hood scoop (sized like the bulge
in the TR-4's bonnet to clear the SU's), but I don't want something too
large.

Any ideas, thoughts?

Dan Parrott
1980 Triumph 1500 "PJ"
1973-1978 Spit Six (in progress)

From celiracer81 at hotmail.com  Mon Oct 13 20:40:49 2008
From: celiracer81 at hotmail.com (celiracer81 at hotmail.com)
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 21:40:49 -0500
Subject: [Spits] Wiring question
Message-ID: <BLU124-W40881FE9AD01C502B26272A2310@phx.gbl>

Hello all,

I was wondering if anyone happens to have a picture of the connections to the
small fuse box for a MK3 Spitfire?  I have a diagram of the wires going into
the voltage regulator, but forgot to make note of the wires from the back of
the fuses.

Thanks,
Dave

_________________________________________________________________
See how Windows connects the people, information, and fun that are part of
your life.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093175mrt/direct/01/

From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net  Tue Oct 14 22:11:14 2008
From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Berger Bob)
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 23:11:14 -0500
Subject: [Spits] Stromberg Vacuum Ports - Follow-Up
In-Reply-To: <gcu36u+fnbb@eGroups.com>
References: <gcu36u+fnbb@eGroups.com>
Message-ID: <C22ECED5-AFE5-4A57-B5DA-E64570871756@sbcglobal.net>

All,

The suggestions I recieved were that the port on the bottom of the  
Stromberg should have vacuum at idle and that the retard unit would  
be fine if disabled.

I took the air cleaner off this evening and here is what I found -  
the port is indeed on the engine side of the butterfly valve and when  
the car is idling I can feel suction on my finger when I hold it over  
the port, the suction goes away when I ran the idle up.

I set the timing to 10deg BTDC but I haven't taken it out for a drive  
yet.

I'm planning on butting a screw into the port on the carb to cap this  
off.


Berger Bob
78 Spitfire
St. Louis, MO




On Oct 12, 2008, at 7:02 PM, Greg Rowe wrote:

> From the handful of carbs that I've seen, the bottom connection
> is ported vacuum and the upper one is manifold vacuum, but my
> expereince is hardly comprehensive so take it with a grain of
> salt. Probably the most sensible thing to do is either hook
> up a vacuum gauge or if you don't have a vacuum gauge, hook up
> a timing light and check the timing at idle and at 3000 rpms with and
> without the vacuum line to the dizzy connected. That will quickly
> show you if the retard is operating as it should.
>
> The other question in my mind is why you would even want
> vacuum retard, IMHO leaving it unplugged is the most sensible
> option.
>
> Greg Rowe
> 79 Spitfire
> Hatfield PA
>
> --- In nass at yahoogroups.com, Berger Bob <bberger720 at ...> wrote:
> >
> > All,
> >
> > The single Stromberg carb I have on my car has the vacuum port on
> the
> > bottom. Is this a port that will have vacuum at idle? or at speed?
> >
> > This carb is not original to my car. The distributor is original
> and
> > I have an original Opus ignition that works, I'm just trying to
> > figure out if this vacuum port will work with the stock vacuum
> retard
> > unit.
> >
> > I currently have this disconnected and the timing set to 10deg
> Before
> > TDC.
> >
> > Thanks for your help.
> >
> > Berger Bob
> > 78 Spitfire
> > St. Louis, MO
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
> __._,_.___
> Messages in this topic (10)Reply (via web post) | Start a new topic
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> unsubscribe at yahoogroups.com
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> >> Full Membership details: http://www.nasshq.org/docs/memberapp.html
>
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From doug at dougbraun.com  Wed Oct 15 06:12:38 2008
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 05:12:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] Stromberg Vacuum Ports - Follow-Up
In-Reply-To: <C22ECED5-AFE5-4A57-B5DA-E64570871756@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <958355.14601.qm@web601.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

They sell these cute little rubber caps made just for
capping off vacuum ports.  Look in the section of hte
car parts store where they have all those
miscellaneous small parts (e.g. "Help!" brand.)

Doug


--- Berger Bob <bberger720 at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> I'm planning on butting a screw into the port on the
> carb to cap this  
> off.

From walker910 at aol.com  Wed Oct 15 07:40:34 2008
From: walker910 at aol.com (walker910 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 09:40:34 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Wiring question
In-Reply-To: <BLU124-W40881FE9AD01C502B26272A2310@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU124-W40881FE9AD01C502B26272A2310@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CAFCE2B9E85111-120-A41@WEBMAIL-DY02.sysops.aol.com>

Dave,

You didn't say what year your MK3 was.? I am attaching a schematic I developed when I restored my MK3 . . . but it was a '70, which had several differences from the earlier MK3 model.? Hope this helps you.

Bob


-----Original Message-----
From: celiracer81 at hotmail.com
To: spitfires at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 7:40 pm
Subject: [Spits] Wiring question



Hello all,

I was wondering if anyone happens to have a picture of the connections to the
small fuse box for a MK3 Spitfire?  I have a diagram of the wires going into
the voltage regulator, but forgot to make note of the wires from the back of
the fuses.

Thanks,
Dave

_________________________________________________________________
See how Windows connects the people, information, and fun that are part of
your life.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093175mrt/direct/01/
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

http://www.team.net/archive

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of Photo 0010005.jpg]

From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net  Wed Oct 15 09:44:38 2008
From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Berger Bob)
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 10:44:38 -0500
Subject: [Spits] Stromberg Vacuum Ports - Follow-Up
In-Reply-To: <958355.14601.qm@web601.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <958355.14601.qm@web601.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <64224225-6A06-445F-9313-790BF112B986@sbcglobal.net>

I'll check out the caps from my FLAPS - my concern is that the  
manifold heat will melt the cap.

Berger Bob
78 Spitfire
St. Louis, MO




On Oct 15, 2008, at 7:12 AM, Doug Braun wrote:

> They sell these cute little rubber caps made just for
> capping off vacuum ports.  Look in the section of hte
> car parts store where they have all those
> miscellaneous small parts (e.g. "Help!" brand.)
>
> Doug
>
>
> --- Berger Bob <bberger720 at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>> I'm planning on butting a screw into the port on the
>> carb to cap this
>> off.

From doug at dougbraun.com  Wed Oct 15 12:52:51 2008
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 11:52:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] Stromberg Vacuum Ports - Follow-Up
In-Reply-To: <64224225-6A06-445F-9313-790BF112B986@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <474921.4501.qm@web607.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

There is normally a rubber hose there, so the plug
should survive, too.

Doug

--- Berger Bob <bberger720 at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> I'll check out the caps from my FLAPS - my concern
> is that the  
> manifold heat will melt the cap.
> 
> Berger Bob
> 78 Spitfire
> St. Louis, MO

From andrew.lindeman at gmail.com  Wed Oct 15 13:27:33 2008
From: andrew.lindeman at gmail.com (Andrew Lindeman)
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 13:27:33 -0600
Subject: [Spits] Seat reassembly
Message-ID: <2cc65d5a0810151227i3d8475a6ubf3d678644d5a007@mail.gmail.com>

I am in the process of putting my interior back together.  I'm ashamed
to admit that it has been a few years since I've worked on it.  I need
to put the driver's seat back together, but I just can't seem to get
it to go together right.  Does anyone have some pictures of their seat
coming apart or back together that I could look at?  I have a '70
Spitfire, so my seats are one year only.  However they look to be
similar enough to later high back seats that pictures should get me
through that process.

Andy L.

From andrew.lindeman at gmail.com  Wed Oct 15 21:36:15 2008
From: andrew.lindeman at gmail.com (Andrew Lindeman)
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 21:36:15 -0600
Subject: [Spits] Seat reassembly
In-Reply-To: <4159825.1224126165877.JavaMail.root@elwamui-little.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <4159825.1224126165877.JavaMail.root@elwamui-little.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <2cc65d5a0810152036t73724beem327eca755d58ca9e@mail.gmail.com>

I just sat back down from getting it together.  It was the routing of
the two internal cotton sheets that I had wrong.  I had the upper one
run wrong, that was the source of my frustration.  Once I stuck my
hands up inside, closed my eyes and got a good "view" of what was
going on, I figured it out pretty quickly.  The foam repair is in, the
vinyl repair is drying, and I now have a radio antenna hidden inside
the driver's seat.

I should be able to drop the seats in tomorrow, bolt up the new visors
and seat belts.  The car will be drivable at that point.  Allowing me
to start enjoying it again like I was doing when I bought it ten years
ago.

After that -
New seals on the side windows
Install the new top
Install the tonneau I got for $50 off this list ten years ago
Install the camber compensator I bought ages ago
Get around to fitting in that overdrive transmission I bought about as
long ago as the camber compensator

Andy L.

From opposumking at verizon.net  Thu Oct 16 03:59:47 2008
From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan)
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 05:59:47 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Seat reassembly
References: <4159825.1224126165877.JavaMail.root@elwamui-little.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<2cc65d5a0810152036t73724beem327eca755d58ca9e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000d01c92f75$eca03050$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us>

That's a good idea Andy, hiding the radio antenna inside the seat.

From bill at gingerich.us  Thu Oct 16 12:41:47 2008
From: bill at gingerich.us (Bill Gingerich)
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 13:41:47 -0500
Subject: [Spits] Seat reassembly
In-Reply-To: <000d01c92f75$eca03050$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us>
References: <4159825.1224126165877.JavaMail.root@elwamui-little.atl.sa.earthlink.net><2cc65d5a0810152036t73724beem327eca755d58ca9e@mail.gmail.com>
	<000d01c92f75$eca03050$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us>
Message-ID: <D684C2EF508F43F7A4564B491A344B4C@shack2>

I wonder if you could just solder or bolt the coax to the frame rails.
Might have to try that.

BillG



-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Nolan
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2008 5:00 AM
To: spitfires at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] Seat reassembly

That's a good idea Andy, hiding the radio antenna inside the seat.

From andrew.lindeman at gmail.com  Thu Oct 16 12:51:47 2008
From: andrew.lindeman at gmail.com (Andrew Lindeman)
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 12:51:47 -0600
Subject: [Spits] Seat reassembly
In-Reply-To: <D684C2EF508F43F7A4564B491A344B4C@shack2>
References: <4159825.1224126165877.JavaMail.root@elwamui-little.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<2cc65d5a0810152036t73724beem327eca755d58ca9e@mail.gmail.com>
	<000d01c92f75$eca03050$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us>
	<D684C2EF508F43F7A4564B491A344B4C@shack2>
Message-ID: <2cc65d5a0810161151x3f47802cn5c201a28c3d6dc5c@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, Oct 16, 2008 at 12:41 PM, Bill Gingerich <bill at gingerich.us> wrote:
> I wonder if you could just solder or bolt the coax to the frame rails.
> Might have to try that.

The antenna needs to be isolated from ground, so you'd have to somehow
insulate the seat frame from the body too.

From bill at gingerich.us  Thu Oct 16 15:20:17 2008
From: bill at gingerich.us (Bill Gingerich)
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 16:20:17 -0500
Subject: [Spits] Seat reassembly
In-Reply-To: <2cc65d5a0810161151x3f47802cn5c201a28c3d6dc5c@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4159825.1224126165877.JavaMail.root@elwamui-little.atl.sa.earthlink.net><2cc65d5a0810152036t73724beem327eca755d58ca9e@mail.gmail.com><000d01c92f75$eca03050$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us><D684C2EF508F43F7A4564B491A344B4C@shack2>
	<2cc65d5a0810161151x3f47802cn5c201a28c3d6dc5c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <86F43A68ECF64731980C35008E0B42CE@shack2>

Good point.  I should have realized that.  Brain burp.

BillG

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Lindeman
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2008 1:52 PM
To: spitfires at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] Seat reassembly

On Thu, Oct 16, 2008 at 12:41 PM, Bill Gingerich <bill at gingerich.us> wrote:
> I wonder if you could just solder or bolt the coax to the frame rails.
> Might have to try that.

The antenna needs to be isolated from ground, so you'd have to somehow
insulate the seat frame from the body too.

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Oct 17 08:27:55 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 10:27:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Spits] keeping the latches closed
Message-ID: <20081017102755.BPE26109@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

My GT6 and occasionally the Spitfire have taken to popping their bonnet latches open.  It usually happens after maybe 30 minutes of driving.  Even after a shorter time period I can check them and see that they are working their way open.

On the GT6 (at least) I attribute it partly to a tire vibration.  (That's another story which I hope to fix soon.)

Do any of you have a fix for this sort of thing?

Tanks.
--
Jim Mull(plunk!)er

From bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk  Fri Oct 17 11:19:13 2008
From: bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk (Bill Davies)
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 18:19:13 +0100
Subject: [Spits] keeping the latches closed
In-Reply-To: <20081017102755.BPE26109@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
Message-ID: <20081017170826.9F4EA18765A@autox.team.net>

> -----Original Message-----
> From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jimmuller at rcn.com
> 
> My GT6 and occasionally the Spitfire have taken to popping their bonnet
> latches open.  It usually happens after maybe 30 minutes of driving.  

Jim,
Check that the catch is well lubricated and free moving. The roller which
the main hook bears against is particularly prone to seizure, ultimately the
hook will wear a groove into the seized roller, rendering the catch scrap.
The catch is able to cope with any kind of vibration our cars can throw at
it, but it relies on free movement to return to it's rest position each time
it is jarred,
Cheers,
Bill.

Rarebits4classics
       .......just what you've been looking for

PO Box 1232
Calne
Wiltshire
SN11 8WA
United Kingdom
http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk

From doug at dougbraun.com  Fri Oct 17 11:27:56 2008
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 10:27:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] keeping the latches closed
In-Reply-To: <20081017102755.BPE26109@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
Message-ID: <47368.22876.qm@web605.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I've never had this problem.  Make sure the latches,
including the roller are not worn out.  Are the
springs that snap the latches open and closed OK?

Also, the latches should have a reasonable amount of
tension.  The rubber bumper cones that support the
bonnet should get compressed a bit when you close the
latches. If the cones are beat up, replace them.  Also
make sure the sockets in the bonnet that the cones go
into are not all bent out of shape.

Doug Braun
'72 Spit

--- jimmuller at rcn.com wrote:

> My GT6 and occasionally the Spitfire have taken to
> popping their bonnet latches open.  It usually
> happens after maybe 30 minutes of driving.  Even
> after a shorter time period I can check them and see
> that they are working their way open.
> 
> On the GT6 (at least) I attribute it partly to a
> tire vibration.  (That's another story which I hope
> to fix soon.)
> 
> Do any of you have a fix for this sort of thing?

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Oct 17 12:21:59 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 11:21:59 -0700
Subject: [Spits] keeping the latches closed
In-Reply-To: <20081017102755.BPE26109@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
References: <20081017102755.BPE26109@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
Message-ID: <226DAEF420FA41339CF097AD6EF49153@newcomputer>

Jim,
It is all about getting the hinges and latches properly adjusted.  If you
are having to force them closed, they will tend to pop open.  The trick is
to make sure that the latches go down with very little effort but end up
with no play in the bonnet once the latch is closed.

You might have to play with the front hinge adjustment, the adjustment of
the locating cones or the hook that the latch closes onto in order to get
the fit to be correct.

Good Luck,
Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jimmuller at rcn.com
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2008 7:28 AM
To: spitfires at autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] keeping the latches closed

My GT6 and occasionally the Spitfire have taken to popping their bonnet
latches open.  It usually happens after maybe 30 minutes of driving.  Even
after a shorter time period I can check them and see that they are working
their way open.

On the GT6 (at least) I attribute it partly to a tire vibration.  (That's
another story which I hope to fix soon.)

Do any of you have a fix for this sort of thing?

Tanks.
--
Jim Mull(plunk!)er
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

http://www.team.net/archive

From parrotthead01 at comcast.net  Fri Oct 17 16:05:37 2008
From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net (Daniel Parrott)
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 18:05:37 -0400
Subject: [Spits] keeping the latches closed
In-Reply-To: <226DAEF420FA41339CF097AD6EF49153@newcomputer>
References: <20081017102755.BPE26109@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
	<226DAEF420FA41339CF097AD6EF49153@newcomputer>
Message-ID: <003b01c930a4$7c86d230$75947690$@net>

Speaking of latches, I picked up a couple of bonnet lock set to lock the
bonnet shut cheap.  Does anyone have any recommended locations for the
locks?

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2008 2:22 PM
To: jimmuller at rcn.com; spitfires at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] keeping the latches closed

Jim,
It is all about getting the hinges and latches properly adjusted.  If you
are having to force them closed, they will tend to pop open.  The trick is
to make sure that the latches go down with very little effort but end up
with no play in the bonnet once the latch is closed.

You might have to play with the front hinge adjustment, the adjustment of
the locating cones or the hook that the latch closes onto in order to get
the fit to be correct.

Good Luck,
Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jimmuller at rcn.com
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2008 7:28 AM
To: spitfires at autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] keeping the latches closed

My GT6 and occasionally the Spitfire have taken to popping their bonnet
latches open.  It usually happens after maybe 30 minutes of driving.  Even
after a shorter time period I can check them and see that they are working
their way open.

On the GT6 (at least) I attribute it partly to a tire vibration.  (That's
another story which I hope to fix soon.)

Do any of you have a fix for this sort of thing?

Tanks.
--
Jim Mull(plunk!)er
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

http://www.team.net/archive
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

http://www.team.net/archive

From red_tr250 at yahoo.com  Sat Oct 18 15:25:00 2008
From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 14:25:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] GT6 Differential & front springs
Message-ID: <427110.50705.qm@web43133.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Hi all,

Sadly, I'm writing this in the wake of our GT6 MK1
differential going belly up.  Drive shaft spins...car
no go!

I have exactly 4 more differentials.  3 of them are
from 4-speed cars & the last is out of a '67 with
overdrive.  Our car has overdrive so it makes sense(to
me) to put in the diff out of the overdrive car.

My question is, how robust are these things?  I've
never had this happen in any of my TRs.  Of course
there is the question of the DPO...never know about
what went on before our owning the car?

Another question.  Our '67 GT6 was set up with a lot
of uprated bits.  I'm planning on swapping the front
springs & shocks.  What's the best plan of attack on
front springs?

TIA

Todd Bermudez # 597
'68 GT6 MK1 RHD
Cincy, OH
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

From v6spitfireguy at cox.net  Sun Oct 19 04:20:05 2008
From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Schwartz)
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 04:20:05
Subject: [Spits] GT6 Differential & front springs
In-Reply-To: <427110.50705.qm@web43133.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3.0.4.16.20081019042005.1e77b3d8@pop.west.cox.net>

Todd,
Well, unfortunately none of the early (pre 75 differentials) are really all
that strong.  There is no difference between the Spitfire (71-75) or GT6
differentials as well, as they all use the same internals .  I've had only
one ring gear go, but what usually breaks is the carrier - the 3.27 GT6
does use a special carrier, however its not any stronger, it just off-set
with special bolts to accommodate that ratio.  If the carrier went, the
only stronger diff is to use a 76 or later Spitfire and change the rear
case, or to use the internals from a small pumpkin TR7.  That is quite a
bit more work however, since the front housing has to be swapped out for
the Spit/GT6 front housing because the TR7 doesn't have the bolt holes for
the front mounting plate that the Spits/GT6s use -  The overdrive cars here
in the states had the 3.89 ratio and most of the later Spits and TR7's have
3.63 ratio, but you can change ring and pinions to give the ratio you need
- if you know how to do it correctly of course :-).  If you can get a
Quaife that will make it about as bullet proof as you can make it ( I've
had one in my V6 powered Spitfire for many years now without incident) but
while they are really marvelous, and I love mine, they are quite expensive - 
 As for the springs - I'm not sure what you're trying to do exactly -


*********************original message***********************
>My question is, how robust are these things?  I've
>never had this happen in any of my TRs.  Of course
>there is the question of the DPO...never know about
>what went on before our owning the car?

Barry Schwartz
La Mesa, CA (San Diego)

From hdrider570 at att.net  Sat Oct 18 12:25:21 2008
From: hdrider570 at att.net (hdrider570 at att.net)
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 11:25:21 -0700
Subject: [Spits] Keeping latches closed
Message-ID: <000901c9314e$e47edfe0$4001a8c0@Q>

I had the same problem with my Herald which uses the same latch.

It turned out that the DPO had replaced the three screws that secure the the latch to the body with new ones that had thicker heads. 
The additional hight of the screw stopped the latch from fully seating.  It was only about a 1/16" but it was enough to mess it up.

 I replaced the screws and no problems for the last 7 years.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma Ca 

From celiracer81 at hotmail.com  Mon Oct 20 19:56:26 2008
From: celiracer81 at hotmail.com (celiracer81 at hotmail.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 20:56:26 -0500
Subject: [Spits] Gauge gaskets
Message-ID: <BLU124-W486AEBF7D088F94E185758A22E0@phx.gbl>

Hello all,

  I tore apart my gauges over the weekend to clean them up only to find that
the rubber gaskets holding the glass in sunggly under the chrome bezel are all
destroyed.

  What have people used to replace these?  Are there large o-rings somewhere
for some application that fit the gauges?  Or have you been making your own
out of some thing rubber material?

Thanks,
  Dave
_________________________________________________________________
When your life is on the gotake your life with you.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/115298558/direct/01/

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Oct 20 21:53:13 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 20:53:13 -0700
Subject: [Spits] Gauge gaskets
In-Reply-To: <BLU124-W486AEBF7D088F94E185758A22E0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU124-W486AEBF7D088F94E185758A22E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4F5769B258EE4B58A9F696205F5063AA@newcomputer>

I used plumber's putty.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
celiracer81 at hotmail.com
Sent: Monday, October 20, 2008 6:56 PM
To: spitfires at autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] Gauge gaskets

Hello all,

  I tore apart my gauges over the weekend to clean them up only to find that
the rubber gaskets holding the glass in sunggly under the chrome bezel are
all
destroyed.

  What have people used to replace these?  Are there large o-rings somewhere
for some application that fit the gauges?  Or have you been making your own
out of some thing rubber material?

Thanks,
  Dave
_________________________________________________________________
When your life is on the gotake your life with you.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/115298558/direct/01/
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

http://www.team.net/archive

From bill at gingerich.us  Mon Oct 20 23:22:56 2008
From: bill at gingerich.us (Bill Gingerich)
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 00:22:56 -0500
Subject: [Spits] Gauge gaskets
In-Reply-To: <BLU124-W486AEBF7D088F94E185758A22E0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU124-W486AEBF7D088F94E185758A22E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <74693C020BC345B18C2879D8FE5356E8@shack2>

Dave,

I had been looking for the same O-rings, and found this guy back in 2007.  I
never bought any, and I'm not sure if he is still around.  I've pasted his
message in below.  NFI, etc.

BillG
Newalla, OK


<PASTE>

 Barrie Robinson
barrie at look.ca

[2007/Apr/18] [Vendor supplied] I can supply most of the O-rings used in
Smith & Jaeger gauges, including the inner ones as well as the square
sectioned ones such as used on the Austin Healey. There are three different
types to suit differing needs, concours etc. The common 'body' (hole in the
dash!) sizes of Smiths/Jaeger gauges are 52mm, 80 mm, 100 mm & 120 mm as
found in most British cars. Prices vary from US$2 (52 mm) to US$7 (120 mm)
Email me for details.






-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
celiracer81 at hotmail.com
Sent: Monday, October 20, 2008 8:56 PM
To: spitfires at autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] Gauge gaskets

Hello all,

  I tore apart my gauges over the weekend to clean them up only to find that
the rubber gaskets holding the glass in sunggly under the chrome bezel are
all
destroyed.

  What have people used to replace these?  Are there large o-rings somewhere
for some application that fit the gauges?  Or have you been making your own
out of some thing rubber material?

Thanks,
  Dave
_________________________________________________________________
When your life is on the gotake your life with you.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/115298558/direct/01/
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

http://www.team.net/archive

From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com  Tue Oct 21 12:34:22 2008
From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com)
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 14:34:22 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Gauge gaskets
In-Reply-To: <mailman.21.1224612004.898.spitfires@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF6658E6BF.290B8AB6-ON852574E9.0065D378-852574E9.00660366@exxonmobil.com>

Dave,

Try: http://www.britcot.com/ for the O-rings you are looking for

Mark
73 MGBGT, 76 TR7, 80 Spitfire


From: <celiracer81 at hotmail.com>
Subject: [Spits] Gauge gaskets

  I tore apart my gauges over the weekend to clean them up only to find
that the rubber gaskets holding the glass in sunggly under the chrome bezel
are all destroyed.
  What have people used to replace these?  Are there large o-rings
somewhere for some application that fit the gauges?  Or have you been
making your own out of some thing rubber material?

Thanks,
  Dave

From maya2blue at juno.com  Sat Oct 25 19:24:07 2008
From: maya2blue at juno.com (maya2blue at juno.com)
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2008 20:24:07 -0500
Subject: [Spits] hardtop available
Message-ID: <20081025.202407.6064.1.maya2blue@juno.com>

I have a 100% finished and painted original hardtop that fits (among
other years) a '78 Spitfire. 

It has a new headliner, all of the hardware needed to mount with the soft
top in place, all of the glass - all of everything. New everything last
year.

All work done by restoration expert with all paper work available.

Some extra glass (rear quarter glass, weather stripping, etc etc)

Currently painted HAE green.

Fair price.

Contact me off list if you have any interest. I would suggest a pickup
rather than shipping, but would ship at buyer's expense.


Best

Harve 

Harve Thorn         NASS #79
531 Amen Corner  Nice '78 Spitfire
Fayetteville, AR    Looking for a nice GT-6
72701 USA   
Tel 1.479.443.0818 evening or lv msg
____________________________________________________________
Free information on Trade Schools. Click Here.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3oLav3YTws2tEP7T1mjd2qud8TvIUabHRE4nj7verG3HYuBy/

From v6spitfireguy at cox.net  Mon Oct 27 06:33:02 2008
From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net)
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2008 09:33:02 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Yet another internet add featuring a TR -
Message-ID: <380-220081012713332286@M2W033.mail2web.com>

Listers,
Just finished purchasing a fuel pump for the wife's 2002 mustang conv
(can't wait to put that in :-P).  Anyway, got it online from RockAuto.com,
well, cause they had the best price -
Got my confirmation email (HTML) and at the top, big as life is a nice,
bright Yellow TR7 convertible with silver panasport wheels!  With the top
down at that!  Very cool -

Barry Schwartz

--------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web LIVE  Free email based on Microsoft. Exchange technology -
http://link.mail2web.com/LIVE

From jdinnis at gmail.com  Fri Oct 31 18:14:56 2008
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 20:14:56 -0500
Subject: [Spits] LOL Dog has Spitfire
Message-ID: <abb8688a0810311814n38835fbcs30c540787f810c06@mail.gmail.com>

http://mine.icanhascheezburger.com/view.aspx?ciid=2454580

-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================