From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Tue Jan 1 08:10:21 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2008 15:10:21 -0000 Subject: [Spits] You and your car - are one year older Message-ID: <008d01c84c88$6ded4a70$0201a8c0@Bevan> For all listers A very Happy New Year to all. You were designed to last a long time, rust will never affect you though wear in critical joints of your driveline might raise its ugly head - with the passage of time. Take comfort that while you may be aging (just a little) it's nothing short of a miracle that your Triumph is still with you. Remember, it was never in the wildest nightmares of those who designed and made it that it would last this long. Enjoy - and if I can borrow a Land Rover advertising slogan here "one life, live it!" Cheers all, Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From Windoseat at aol.com Tue Jan 1 10:54:52 2008 From: Windoseat at aol.com (Windoseat at aol.com) Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2008 12:54:52 EST Subject: [Spits] You and your car - are one year older Message-ID: Happy New Years John; One year older makes me 60 and the GT6+ 38 years old.....heck in people years the GT6+ is a 30 something youngster! Still wet behind the ears and full of attitude like I was at that age. Seems like only yesterday I was 22 and the Triumph was a new born. Good luck in your trip to the USA and if you are going to be in the Michigan area let me know and maybe we can get together after all this time. Greg Wolf 1969 Triumph GT6+ KC79747L Conifer Green **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From parrotthead01 at comcast.net Tue Jan 1 14:03:15 2008 From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net (Daniel parrott) Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2008 16:03:15 -0500 Subject: [Spits] 1980 Bumper Conversion In-Reply-To: <4733CA36.2060605@autox.team.net> References: <4733CA36.2060605@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <000301c84cb9$baf57b90$30e072b0$@net> Well, I'm biting the bullet and started the process to convert my 1980 Spitfire's rubber bumpers to chrome bumpers over the winter. I pulled the front bumper cover off and removed the foam plastic bumper material from the middle and from in front of the two pivot support brackets. When I compared the pivot support brackets to that of a 77 Spit, it appears that I have a 4 inch wide by 1 in deep vertical channel welded to the pivot support bracket. The channel serves as the mounting bracket for the foam plastic "dagmars". When I tried to trial-fit the chrome bumper to the car, it didn't fit. It now appears that I have to grind down some of the metal that supports the vertical channel in order to mount the US-style over-riders. Am I correct? Has anyone done this conversion already? Also, Rimmer Brothers sells smaller "under-riders" to hide the pivot support brackets. Am I correct in that the entire vertical channel has to be removed in order to mount the smaller, UK-style under-riders? Dan Parrott 1980 Triumph Spitfire "PJ" Savannah, Ga From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Wed Jan 2 06:27:11 2008 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 08:27:11 -0500 Subject: [Spits] 1980 Bumper Conversion References: <4733CA36.2060605@autox.team.net> <000301c84cb9$baf57b90$30e072b0$@net> Message-ID: <001401c84d43$3543c300$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> You can notch the triangular piece in back of the big plate in order to fit the bumper behind it. It's a tight fit. I did it at first, but don't recommend it. No overriders fit this way. Next up is to simply cut off the big plate. That's the easiest and most effective way to go. Depending on the overriders you want to use, there can be some trouble due to the width your leaving on the frame box this way. And lastly comes removing the side pieces of that big plate, bringing the frame box down to the original width.. The plates are not simply welded on to the front, there are side plates as well. This is remarkably tedious as the spot welding is sporatically located, and profuse. ----- Original Message ----- > Well, I'm biting the bullet and started the process to convert my 1980 > Spitfire's rubber bumpers to chrome bumpers over the winter. > > When I tried to trial-fit the chrome bumper to the car, it didn't fit. It > now appears that I have to grind down some of the metal that supports the > vertical channel in order to mount the US-style over-riders. Am I > correct? > Has anyone done this conversion already? From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Wed Jan 2 06:48:49 2008 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 08:48:49 -0500 Subject: [Spits] [TR] [6pack] Emissions in the future-is retrofitting possible? References: <4775BA60.70505@tscusa.org> <6BA2E218-1FF3-498A-8041-FF5AFB5C3B3F@blakedischer.com> Message-ID: <005301c84d46$344b2ad0$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> Huh, wonder which things SEMA is claiming victory on in Maryland. We had a bill (HB1267) to allow cars 25 years old and more to be exempted from testing. Current law requires testing for anything after 1976. That bill didn't make it out of committee. Is SEMA claiming that as a victory? In previous years, SEMA submitted bills to eliminate our existing exemptions for historic cars and such, and to completely eliminate the streetrod category of license plates. Thankfully, SEMA lost those, with some lobbying help from me and others against SEMAs attempt to restrict the heck out of hotrods and such. Keep your eyes open with SEMA. They don't seem to research things much when they go off on a crusade. And once they are crusading, no facts or existing laws will sway them from their course. ----- Original Message ----- > In my role as President of The Vintage Triumph Register (VTR), I am in > contact with the folks at the SEMA Action Network (SEMASAN), which is > an arm of SEMA (Specialty Equipment Market Association). SEMA is a > trade association for manufacturers which produce parts for the motor > vehicle aftermarket. A big portion of their member's customer base > are the hot-rodders, street-rodders and antique/classic car enthusiasts. > > During 2007, their efforts helped win legislative victories in issues > effecting old car enthusiasts in Arizona, Arkansas, California, > Connecticut, Delaware, Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Idaho, Illinois, > Indiana, Iowa, Kentucky, Maryland, Massachusetts, Minnesota, Montana, > Nevada, New Jersey, New York, Pennsylvania, Texas, Virginia, West > Virginia and Wyoming. Colorado is on their radar, their last success > there was in 2006 in a bill concerning vehicle smog inspections for > kit cars. From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Jan 2 16:17:08 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 23:17:08 -0000 Subject: [Spits] Triumph Trans-AmeriCan Charity Drive 2009 Message-ID: <028b01c84d95$993c7080$0201a8c0@Bevan> My sincere apologies for 'bombing' the lists. An enthusiast from central Florida wrote me recently suggesting a venue in that location. Unfortunately, I seem to have deleted his post before filing it. Could that person please contact me off-list please? Thanks Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Fri Jan 4 16:08:04 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 23:08:04 -0000 Subject: [Spits] Latest News on Triumph Trans-AmeriCa Charity Drive 2009 Message-ID: <060301c84f26$a9a58e10$0201a8c0@Bevan> Hi, Listers At long last we appear to have a route mapped out for the Great Triumph Odyssey in 2009 which you'll find by clicking here www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk. We've also got a pattern of the rallyboard as well to whet the appetites of those who may want to take part? Click on ROUTE when you reach the site home page. There's a lot more info to impart about the route itself and I hope to be adding this in the next 48 hours or so. I hope you'll forgive me if that deadline slips a bit - 'cos I'm a bit tense this weekend. Reason is my first grandson is due by Monday and everything is a bit "adjacent" if you get my meaning? Cheers, Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From pelevesque at globetrotter.net Mon Jan 7 13:43:38 2008 From: pelevesque at globetrotter.net (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Paul-Ernest_L=E9vesque?=) Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2008 15:43:38 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Differential front casing removal on MK3, 1970 Message-ID: <21C440A2502D4D108725C935FB6675CA@PCdePaulErne> Hello My Differential is making noise when cold, I looking to overhaul it. I am under the impression that I can overhaul by removing only the front casing, of the differential after disconnecting the shaft going to the wheels on a proper car lift. Can it be done,? or do really have to remove the complete differential with the rear casing, which involve much more work The mechanic man is telling me that the Crown and Pin sound O.K. but the bearings seem to make the noise. That I will know later, I think. Except the Crown and Pin which parts should I order in addition of the bearings?, Shims of different thickness ? Any advice will be appreciate Have a nice day P-Ernest From zoboherald at aol.com Mon Jan 7 14:09:55 2008 From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com) Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2008 16:09:55 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Differential front casing removal on MK3, 1970 In-Reply-To: <21C440A2502D4D108725C935FB6675CA@PCdePaulErne> References: <21C440A2502D4D108725C935FB6675CA@PCdePaulErne> Message-ID: <8CA1F88C963CBF0-BE8-1E98@WEBMAIL-DG09> -----Original Message----- From: Paul-Ernest LC)vesque Hello My Differential is making noise when cold, I looking to overhaul it. I am under the impression that I can overhaul by removing only the front casing, of the differential after disconnecting the shaft going to the wheels on a proper car lift. Can it be done,? or do really have to remove the complete differential with the rear casing, which involve much more work The mechanic man is telling me that the Crown and Pin sound O.K. but the bearings seem to make the noise. That I will know later, I think. ==AM== A couple of somewhat random, but related, thoughts: 1. How's the oil level? 2. It's not terribly difficult to undo the outer axle shafts and then remove the inner axle shafts to check the bearings on same. Not all that common, but they do fail (known from personal experience). --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From spitlist at cox.net Mon Jan 7 14:16:03 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 14:16:03 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Differential front casing removal on MK3, 1970 References: <21C440A2502D4D108725C935FB6675CA@PCdePaulErne> Message-ID: <006f01c85172$82f0cd40$2d02a8c0@Belkin> If you disconnect the axle shafts from the diff and then remove the output shafts from the diff, you can then take the front half of the differential off of the case assembly leaving that portion attached to the frame. The pinion shaft, carrier and crown gear assembly is all part of that front half of the unit so getting it clear of the case will enable you to take it to the bench for repair. Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul-Ernest Livesque" To: Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 1:43 PM Subject: [Spits] Differential front casing removal on MK3, 1970 > Hello My Differential is making noise when cold, I looking to overhaul it. I am under the impression that I can overhaul by removing only the front casing, of the differential after disconnecting the shaft going to the wheels on a proper car lift. Can it be done,? or do really have to remove the complete differential with the rear casing, which involve much more work > > The mechanic man is telling me that the Crown and Pin sound O.K. but the bearings seem to make the noise. That I will know later, I think. > > Except the Crown and Pin which parts should I order in addition of the bearings?, Shims of different thickness ? > > Any advice will be appreciate > > Have a nice day > > > > P-Ernest From OKCSpitfire at sbcglobal.net Mon Jan 7 21:52:23 2008 From: OKCSpitfire at sbcglobal.net (OKCSpitfire) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 22:52:23 -0600 Subject: [Spits] Timing chain cover nut In-Reply-To: <006f01c85172$82f0cd40$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: <20080108045301.C56B7187A19@autox.team.net> Does any one have a way to remove the crankshaft bolt in front of the timing chain. I went to Harbor Freight to get a socket set that had a socket big enough to fit the bolt 1-13/16". Who in their right mind would have put that size of bolt on a freaking 4 cylinder engine. I have visited the Brits sites and they seem to have a relatively low opinion of Americans but I am beginning to wonder about their ingenuity. They build cars that rust at will, they make them to where you can't get the hubs off the rear axles and now I have discovered that they assume the mighty little 4 cylinder engine has as much torque as a Detroit diesel so the used a huge bolt that also can't be removed. So once again I must turn to the British bucket guru's to see if anyone here has any suggestions as to how to remove the bolt so I can get the timing cover off to replace the timing chain. Any suggestions? Thanks in Advanced OKCSpitfire No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1210 - Release Date: 1/5/2008 11:46 AM From nmoseley at dccnet.com Mon Jan 7 22:08:27 2008 From: nmoseley at dccnet.com (Nick Moseley) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 21:08:27 -0800 Subject: [Spits] Timing chain cover nut In-Reply-To: <20080108045301.C56B7187A19@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <1199768911_1081163@mx.dccnet.com> Funny timing, I sent the message below to the NASS list earlier today. Based on the look of the nut that came off and what I've read, some folks use a hammer and cold chisel to loosen it. Hope that helps. Nick Moseley -----Original Message----- From: Nick Moseley [mailto:nmoseley at dccnet.com] Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 11:41 AM To: 'nass at yahoogroups.com' Subject: RE: >>NASS Re: Was Carbs -Valve timing- now crank nut tools I'm rebuilding an engine and needed to remove the crank nut. The 1 13/16ths socket was only 9.99, but the adapter from 3/4 to 1 in was 12.99. www.princessauto.com Pages 281 and 283 from their 8000 page catalogue Nick M #278 From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Jan 7 22:27:17 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2008 00:27:17 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Timing chain cover nut In-Reply-To: <20080108045301.C56B7187A19@autox.team.net> References: <006f01c85172$82f0cd40$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: <4782C365.4744.1037B0A4@localhost> On 7 Jan 2008 at 22:52, OKCSpitfire wrote: > Does any one have a way to remove the crankshaft bolt in front of > the timing chain. I went to Harbor Freight to get a socket set that > had a socket big enough to fit the bolt 1-13/16". Well, ah yes, I have a way. I use a 1-13/16" socket (or whatever it is). I believe you can find lots of 'em at Sears. Maybe a bit more expensive than Harbor Freight, but cheaper than taking the car to a shop. I may actually need to use mine a second time some day. If you are naywhere near Boston you are welcome to borrow it. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From r.gosling at penspen.com Tue Jan 8 02:01:59 2008 From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 09:01:59 -0000 Subject: [Spits] Timing chain cover nut References: <20080108045301.C56B7187A19@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF7EB@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com> OKCSpitfire - sounds like you are getting a little frustrated! I'll avoid the temptation to get into a slanging match on the relative faults of British and American cars ;-) I have no idea why Triumph chose such a random size for their pulley nut. One method for loosening the nut is to remove a spark plug, and feed a lenth of rope into the cylinder. This jams the piston, and prevents the crank from turning, so you can then turn the nut, preferably with a VERY long extension bar! Another (more brutal) method is to fit the socket and an extension bar onto the nut, then hit the starter motor. Having said all this, shortly after I had a (professionally) reconditioned engine fitted to my Spit, I remember noticing the crank nut was loose, so I returned to the shop that fitted it. They had a nightmare trying to shift the nut, it wouldn't move either way, tighten or loosen. I can't remember what sorted it in the end, but I think it involved a lot of brute force. Richard ________________________________________________________________________ This message (including any attachments) is confidential and may be privileged. If you have received it by mistake please notify the sender by return E-mail and delete this message from your system. Any unauthorised use or dissemination of this message in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Please note that E-mails are susceptible to change. The Penspen Group shall not be liable for the improper or incomplete transmission of the information contained in this communication nor for any delay in its receipt or damage to your system. The Penspen Group does not guarantee that the integrity of this communication has been maintained or that this communication is free of viruses, interceptions or interference. The following UK companies within the Penspen Group and any electronic communication sent on behalf of any of them, are subject to the provisions of the UK Companies Act 1985; PENSPEN HOLDINGS LIMITED (Company Number : 980600) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239 7770 19) PENSPEN LIMITED (Company Number: 584446) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239 7770 19) (Unipen, Penspen Integrity and Andrew Palmer & Associates are operating divisions of Penspen Limited and Spencer & Partners and Pencol are trade names of Penspen Limited) MANCHESTER JETLINE LIMITED (Company Number: 2392093) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 537 8635 08) From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Tue Jan 8 03:39:40 2008 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 05:39:40 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Timing chain cover nut References: <20080108045301.C56B7187A19@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <001501c851e2$c6c64340$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> Use a 3/4" drive breaker bar. A 1/2" flexes so much that it doesn't do nearly as good a job at removing the nut. Don't try to use the parking brake or such, there's way to much flex and wrap up. You won't get the nut off this way. I tend to use the starter motor myself when removing crankshaft nuts. Put the socket and breaker bar on the nut, positioning the handle of the breaker bar against a frame rail or such. Bump the starter motor. The nut spins off. If that gives you the heebe-jeebes, Rotate the engine until the #1 cylinder is on the bottom of the power stroke (1/2 revolution past TDC, with the distributor rotor pointing at the #1 cylinder wire. Stuff rope down the cylinder via the sparkplug hole. Rotate the crankshaft backwards via the nut. The piston will push up against the rope, locking the engine, letting you pull hard, breaking the nut free. From bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk Tue Jan 8 04:00:58 2008 From: bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk (Rarebits) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 11:00:58 -0000 Subject: [Spits] Timing chain cover nut In-Reply-To: <001501c851e2$c6c64340$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: <20080108105227.348801879D2@autox.team.net> Lots of suggestions which I can't argue against, but I can honestly say the crankshaft pulley nut has never given me any great difficulty. I use the correct socket, together with a large (2-foot plus) breaker bar. I don't try to jam the crank, but apply a quick snapping action to the bar. The crank and moving parts have substantial inertia, the third or fourth snap will usually have the nut loosened. Applying sustained pressure against a locked crank is the difficult way of doing things, Cheers, Bill. Rarebits4classics .......just what you've been looking for PO Box 1232 Calne Wiltshire SN11 8WA United Kingdom http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk From doug at dougbraun.com Tue Jan 8 06:29:59 2008 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 05:29:59 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Spits] Timing chain cover nut In-Reply-To: <20080108045301.C56B7187A19@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <679976.64323.qm@web605.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> It would be more accurate to say that "they BUILT cars that ..." British auto design and manufacturing collapsed years ago, especially after the Japanese auto industry rose. As for getting the crankshaft nut off, I always use a big plumber's monkey wrench. I fit it over the nut with the handle resting on the frame rail, and hit the starter. Doug Braun '72 Spit --- OKCSpitfire wrote: > I have > visited the Brits sites > and they seem to have a relatively low opinion of > Americans but I am > beginning to wonder about their ingenuity. They > build cars that rust at > will, they make them to where you can't get the hubs > off the rear axles and > now I have discovered that they assume the mighty > little 4 cylinder engine > has as much torque as a Detroit diesel so the used a > huge bolt that also > can't be removed. From r.gosling at penspen.com Tue Jan 8 07:04:09 2008 From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 14:04:09 -0000 Subject: [Spits] Timing chain cover nut References: <679976.64323.qm@web605.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF7ED@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com> "British auto design and manufacturing collapsed years ago, especially after the Japanese auto industry rose." Not really true. British car design is alive and well, car manufacturers from around the world use the services of British consultants such as Lotus, Perkins (both of whom I've worked for), Cosworth, Ricardo and TWR (oops, yes, I think TWR was brought down by the collapse of MG Rover now I think about it). A lot of cars are manufactured in Britain too - mostly by Japanese firms (Honda, Toyota and Nissan all have big plants), as well as by Ford and Vauxhall (GM's British brand), also Jaguar, Land Rover and other more niche manufacturers. Apart from the Japanese brands, however, things aren't looking good at the moment - Ford and GM have been cutting back for several years, and currently Ford are looking to sell Jag and Landie to Tata, an Indian company, which will likely move a lot of production over to India if they succeed. The only thing we don't have any more is a British-owned mass-market brand. Richard ________________________________________________________________________ This message (including any attachments) is confidential and may be privileged. If you have received it by mistake please notify the sender by return E-mail and delete this message from your system. Any unauthorised use or dissemination of this message in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Please note that E-mails are susceptible to change. The Penspen Group shall not be liable for the improper or incomplete transmission of the information contained in this communication nor for any delay in its receipt or damage to your system. The Penspen Group does not guarantee that the integrity of this communication has been maintained or that this communication is free of viruses, interceptions or interference. The following UK companies within the Penspen Group and any electronic communication sent on behalf of any of them, are subject to the provisions of the UK Companies Act 1985; PENSPEN HOLDINGS LIMITED (Company Number : 980600) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239 7770 19) PENSPEN LIMITED (Company Number: 584446) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239 7770 19) (Unipen, Penspen Integrity and Andrew Palmer & Associates are operating divisions of Penspen Limited and Spencer & Partners and Pencol are trade names of Penspen Limited) MANCHESTER JETLINE LIMITED (Company Number: 2392093) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 537 8635 08) From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Tue Jan 8 07:10:51 2008 From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 09:10:51 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Timing chain cover nut In-Reply-To: Message-ID: If the engine is out of the car and on an engine stand, turn the engine over and remove the oil pan. Put a short length 2x4 between a lob on the crank shaft and the engine case. This is to keep the crank from moving while you loosen the crank bolt. This method has worked for me both times I have had to take off this nut. Mark 80 Spitfire 1500 From: "OKCSpitfire" Subject: [Spits] Timing chain cover nut Does any one have a way to remove the crankshaft bolt in front of the timing chain. I went to Harbor Freight to get a socket set that had a socket big enough to fit the bolt 1-13/16". Any suggestions? Thanks in Advanced OKCSpitfire From george.r.parker at att.net Tue Jan 8 08:53:40 2008 From: george.r.parker at att.net (george.r.parker at att.net) Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2008 15:53:40 +0000 Subject: [Spits] crank pulley nut Message-ID: <010820081553.26832.47839C840000C7EE000068D022230650629B0A02D29B9B0EBF9D0A059D0E9FD29DD20A099D010A09@att.net> I'm surprised that no one suggested the method I used to remove my crank pulley nut just a few short weeks ago - an air impact wrench. Worked like a charm. Just a couple blips of the trigger and off she came! Maybe not everyone has compressed air available, though.... -- George P. NASS #290 '78 Spit 1500 Ruther Glen, VA From pelevesque at globetrotter.net Tue Jan 8 09:10:15 2008 From: pelevesque at globetrotter.net (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Paul-Ernest_L=E9vesque?=) Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2008 11:10:15 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Brake Pads Message-ID: <43DBDE57F0DD41D3A33F6CFD96F0ED88@PCdePaulErne> Hello, My Triumph MK3 1970 has new fronts brakes, Rotors, Callipers, and Brake Pads, but still the braking result is weak, I cannot identify the kind of Brake Pads that I have installed.I wish to change the Pads for try, anyone have a recommendation for the best Brake Pads I should install in order to improve the braking, and who sell the good ones. Have a very nice day P-Ernest From krhodes1 at maine.rr.com Tue Jan 8 09:18:52 2008 From: krhodes1 at maine.rr.com (Kevin Rhodes) Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2008 11:18:52 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Brake Pads In-Reply-To: <43DBDE57F0DD41D3A33F6CFD96F0ED88@PCdePaulErne> References: <43DBDE57F0DD41D3A33F6CFD96F0ED88@PCdePaulErne> Message-ID: <200801081618.m08GIqeP016219@ms-smtp-05.nyroc.rr.com> If the MK-III has the same front brakes as a MK-IV/1500, I have been very happy using genuine Volvo 240 rear pads on the front of mine. Inexpensive, good feel. Kevin Rhodes At 11:10 AM 1/8/2008, Paul-Ernest Livesque wrote: >Hello, My Triumph MK3 1970 has new fronts brakes, Rotors, >Callipers, and Brake Pads, but still the braking result is weak, I >cannot identify the kind of Brake Pads that I have installed.I wish >to change the Pads for try, anyone have a recommendation for the >best Brake Pads I should install in order to improve the braking, >and who sell the good ones. > >Have a very nice day > >P-Ernest From s1500 at comcast.net Tue Jan 8 12:00:13 2008 From: s1500 at comcast.net (s1500 at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2008 19:00:13 +0000 Subject: [Spits] OT: Classic British Motor Racing Message-ID: <010820081900.8951.4783C83D0005BF0F000022F72206424413CFCFCACE9C@comcast.net> Saw this on a different forum I am on. For the PS2, Wii and Windows, a game where you can drive 13 different LBCs. Yes, Spitfire is listed as one of them. Might have to pick it up to see how the Spit in this game handles. It was panned by critics, but it's a budget game. Being released in '06, it should be had for cheap. From grizmoto at midrivers.com Tue Jan 8 16:33:01 2008 From: grizmoto at midrivers.com (Marty Paulson) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 16:33:01 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Timing chain cover nut References: <20080108105227.348801879D2@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <002f01c8524e$d26bdc70$a7d85940@Paulson> > Funny timing indeed, at least you guys got nuts :-). I just checked and > mine was gone, don't even know how long. I got a new one coming, but how > do I keep it on? Locktite? Should I just reverse the removal techniques > discussed? Montana Marty, Miles and Miles w/o any Spitfires around. :-( > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Spitfires at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires > > http://www.team.net/archive From OKCSpitfire at sbcglobal.net Tue Jan 8 19:56:26 2008 From: OKCSpitfire at sbcglobal.net (OKCSpitfire) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 20:56:26 -0600 Subject: [Spits] crank pulley nut In-Reply-To: <010820081553.26832.47839C840000C7EE000068D022230650629B0A02D29B9B0EBF9D0A059D0E9FD29DD20A099D010A09@att.net> Message-ID: <20080109025718.6776C1879EF@autox.team.net> Thanks to all for all the suggestions. I am sure I will be able to utilize these and actually get the bolt off. BTW, Didn't mean to offend our friends over in the UK just a bit frustrated by the trials and tribulations of working on the little Spitfire. OKCSpitfire -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces+okcspitfire=sbcglobal.net at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces+okcspitfire=sbcglobal.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of george.r.parker at att.net Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2008 9:54 AM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] crank pulley nut I'm surprised that no one suggested the method I used to remove my crank pulley nut just a few short weeks ago - an air impact wrench. Worked like a charm. Just a couple blips of the trigger and off she came! Maybe not everyone has compressed air available, though.... -- George P. NASS #290 '78 Spit 1500 Ruther Glen, VA Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1210 - Release Date: 1/5/2008 11:46 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1210 - Release Date: 1/5/2008 11:46 AM From spitfiresrule at msn.com Wed Jan 9 01:21:08 2008 From: spitfiresrule at msn.com (MITCH D JOHNSON) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 01:21:08 -0700 Subject: [Spits] crank pulley nut References: <20080109025718.6776C1879EF@autox.team.net> Message-ID: I wouldn't worry too much. If you ever watch the British car show "Top Gear" they are constantly insulting the US auto industry. (Funny that they are still around if they are so bad?) Mitch D. Johnson (Getting totally buried in snow in Utah) ----- Original Message ----- From: OKCSpitfire To: george.r.parker at att.net ; spitfires at autox.team.net ; 'Rarebits' ; 'Nolan' Cc: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2008 7:56 PM Subject: Re: [Spits] crank pulley nut Thanks to all for all the suggestions. I am sure I will be able to utilize these and actually get the bolt off. BTW, Didn't mean to offend our friends over in the UK just a bit frustrated by the trials and tribulations of working on the little Spitfire. OKCSpitfire -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces+okcspitfire=sbcglobal.net at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces+okcspitfire=sbcglobal.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of george.r.parker at att.net Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2008 9:54 AM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] crank pulley nut I'm surprised that no one suggested the method I used to remove my crank pulley nut just a few short weeks ago - an air impact wrench. Worked like a charm. Just a couple blips of the trigger and off she came! Maybe not everyone has compressed air available, though.... -- George P. NASS #290 '78 Spit 1500 Ruther Glen, VA Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1210 - Release Date: 1/5/2008 11:46 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1210 - Release Date: 1/5/2008 11:46 AM _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From TR250Driver at aol.com Sat Jan 12 12:59:18 2008 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 14:59:18 EST Subject: [Spits] Frozen Tach Message-ID: Bummer, I just put a NOS Tach in the GT6+ and it snapped the cable at the distributor! I took it back out and it appears to be frozen. What's up with that? Darrell **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From spitlist at cox.net Sat Jan 12 13:10:08 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 13:10:08 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Frozen Tach In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000d01c85557$210831c0$0202a8c0@newcomputer> Having just finished overhauling my son's mechanical tach (Mk2 Spit), I can say that it is probably to do with the piece that goes into the tach to power the magnet that couples to the movement. It is easy to fix but requires some precision disassembly and reassembly. You have to remove the thing from the case (Remove the face and take out the 2 screws on the back. Carefully pry off the needle and remove the two small screws that secure the face plate. There are 4 screws that connect the rear drive mechanism to the movement. Be careful with the movement when removing it so that the parts are intact. Once you get the two parts separated, there are two screws that will allow you to remove the rear housing and pull out the shaft for cleaning. Once you clean the shaft and housing to allow the shaft to spin freely, reverse the process to get it back together again. Hopefully, you have not damaged the nylon drive gear in the dizzy. Those are no longer being produced as far as I can tell. Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TR250Driver at aol.com Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 12:59 PM To: spitfires at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Frozen Tach Bummer, I just put a NOS Tach in the GT6+ and it snapped the cable at the distributor! I took it back out and it appears to be frozen. What's up with that? Darrell **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From TR250Driver at aol.com Sat Jan 12 13:46:17 2008 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 15:46:17 EST Subject: [Spits] Frozen Tach Message-ID: Thanks Joe, I will first practice on an old Tach I have before going for the new one. Funny I now have two yes two NOS Tachs for the GT6+ that don't work. In addition to the frozen one I have another that reads real low and is not very responsive. They both have bright fluorescent red needles which was my goal on all the gauges. I should have left things alone since I had a working Tach in there, just had the typical faded needle. I put a NOS OD Type Speedo in two today Too. Fingers crossed there. I am hopeful that it will give me a more accurate MPH reading. No Cheers, Darrell BTW I took the GT out for an extended run today and she ran real cool. Never even approached half on the old Smiths Temp gauge. 40 degrees and all is good! Triumph in Winter! **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From spitlist at cox.net Sat Jan 12 15:48:16 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 15:48:16 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Frozen Tach In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001401c8556d$38b8f1e0$0202a8c0@newcomputer> Probably from sitting that has caused the shaft to freeze up. You might want to spray it with a silicon lubricant. That will give it a bit of lubrication without having anything that will harden with age. Joe _____ From: TR250Driver at aol.com [mailto:TR250Driver at aol.com] Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 1:46 PM To: spitlist at cox.net; spitfires at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] Frozen Tach Thanks Joe, I will first practice on an old Tach I have before going for the new one. Funny I now have two yes two NOS Tachs for the GT6+ that don't work. In addition to the frozen one I have another that reads real low and is not very responsive. They both have bright fluorescent red needles which was my goal on all the gauges. I should have left things alone since I had a working Tach in there, just had the typical faded needle. I put a NOS OD Type Speedo in two today Too. Fingers crossed there. I am hopeful that it will give me a more accurate MPH reading. No Cheers, Darrell BTW I took the GT out for an extended run today and she ran real cool. Never even approached half on the old Smiths Temp gauge. 40 degrees and all is good! Triumph in Winter! _____ Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape in the new year. From ZoboHerald at aol.com Sat Jan 12 19:38:25 2008 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 21:38:25 EST Subject: [Spits] [TR] Frozen Tach Message-ID: In a message dated 1/12/2008 2:59:34 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: I just put a NOS Tach in the GT6+ and it snapped the cable at the distributor! I took it back out and it appears to be frozen. What's up with that? ==AM== I've heard that sort of thing is not uncommon with NOS speedos and tachs. It's usually from sitting around unused all those years, and whatever lubricants and such inside harden up. Like so many other things mechanical, just sitting often does them no good at all. NOS means unused but not necessarily ready-to-use. :-( --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From spitlist at cox.net Fri Jan 18 12:06:06 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 12:06:06 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Fw: Engine Bearings Message-ID: <002b01c85a05$2de9ea20$2d02a8c0@Belkin> I just received this and figured it might be of interest to some on the list. NFI, etc Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: Basil Adams To: spitlist at cox.net Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 11:46 AM Subject: Engine Bearings I just had a customer (a large supplier of British parts) tell me that Spitfire engine bearings have become scarce. I wondered why someone bought 24 sets of old-stock Vandervells from me recently. If you want to let your members know, I have more available for both the small journal and 1500cc Spitfires. Thanks. Basil From parrotthead01 at comcast.net Sat Jan 19 11:56:16 2008 From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net (Daniel parrott) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 13:56:16 -0500 Subject: [Spits] 1980 Chrome Bumper Conversion In-Reply-To: <4733CA36.2060605@autox.team.net> References: <4733CA36.2060605@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <000f01c85acc$f8dd73b0$ea985b10$@net> In my process to convert my 1980 Rubber-Bumper Spit to a Chrome bumpers, I sent my front chrome bumper to Paul's Chrome for a quote. The bumper is straight, no dings or dents, and no pitting. There is some rust on the inside near the welds. Their quote? $580.00!!!! Is this about the expected price for a re-chrome? D.L. Parrott 1980 Triumph Spitfire "PJ" Savannah, Georgia From spitlist at cox.net Sat Jan 19 17:53:30 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (spitlist at cox.net) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 16:53:30 -0800 Subject: [Spits] 1980 Chrome Bumper Conversion In-Reply-To: <000f01c85acc$f8dd73b0$ea985b10$@net> Message-ID: <20080119195330.W368X.54957.root@fed1wml05.mgt.cox.net> Dan, If you lived anywhere close to Tucson, You could probably beat that by about 400 bucks, I had my front bumper (Hand Made) for $75.00. Joe C. ---- Daniel parrott wrote: > In my process to convert my 1980 Rubber-Bumper Spit to a Chrome bumpers, I > sent my front chrome bumper to Paul's Chrome for a quote. The bumper is > straight, no dings or dents, and no pitting. There is some rust on the > inside near the welds. > > Their quote? $580.00!!!! > > Is this about the expected price for a re-chrome? > > D.L. Parrott > 1980 Triumph Spitfire "PJ" > Savannah, Georgia > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Spitfires at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires > > http://www.team.net/archive From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sun Jan 20 01:56:15 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 08:56:15 -0000 Subject: [Spits] Updates to website for Triumph Trans-AmeriCa Charity Drive 2009 Message-ID: <02b601c85b42$513b7780$0201a8c0@Bevan> The website has expanded again: 1. There is now an opportunity for readers to send in queries. 2. A more detailed map of the overall route showing current stops has been provided. This is a .pdf file and allows you to zoom in onto the route and move around on it to see it in a little more detail 3. The Route page is now divided up into 12 sectors. You'll be able to read about each sector and where we're going. We've used up every WEEKEND except one, in the period 4 July to 30 Sept 2009 but virtually all of the WEEKDAY EVENINGS are still open for informal visits to clubs that are based near the route. 4. Photographs of the donated UK spec Spitfire will be uploaded next weekend. 5. Revised Powerpoint presentations are in progress and will soon be available for free download John Macartney Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Jan 23 16:58:16 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 23:58:16 -0000 Subject: [Spits] Door measurements Message-ID: <007101c85e1b$d2676ae0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Hi, Guys Help required please. I'm having two magnetic display panels made for the Macartney Charity's 1978 1500 Spitfire that I have yet to collect from its exceedingly generous donor. These panels will only be mounted for display purposes and will be off more than they're on. The dimensions I need are as follows: TOTAL WIDTH - from leading to trailing edge directly beneath the door handle TOTAL HEIGHT - at trailing edge from horizontal of door bottom to beneath handle TOTAL HEIGHT - at leading edge from horizontal door bottom to intersect point on the width measurement Just to complicate things, I'd greatly appreciate similar measurements using the same criteria for a Mk 2 Stag door Many thanks Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From suzie.singleton at virgin.net Thu Jan 24 11:48:32 2008 From: suzie.singleton at virgin.net (Suzie) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 18:48:32 -0000 Subject: [Spits] Door measurements References: <007101c85e1b$d2676ae0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <002801c85eb9$b8d49780$0202a8c0@Singleton> Hi Jonmac Guy has kindly brought a Spitfire 1500 door into the living room for me to measure for you. > TOTAL WIDTH - from leading to trailing edge directly beneath the door > handle 93cm > TOTAL HEIGHT - at trailing edge from horizontal of door bottom to beneath > handle 36cm > TOTAL HEIGHT - at leading edge from horizontal door bottom to intersect > point on the width > measurement 37.5cm A bit difficult to be sure I've measured where you're thinking of but if anyone else can do the same then you should be able to get an average of the figures. Suzie & Guy From James.Knowles at telelogic.com Thu Jan 24 12:39:22 2008 From: James.Knowles at telelogic.com (James Knowles) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 20:39:22 +0100 Subject: [Spits] Door measurements Message-ID: <0B5F4532EB115E46920BDC5FE7938FFA063C7D54@semlm-exch.tlogic.telelogic.com> Now there's a proper woman who allows car parts in the living room....... I vote Suzie for Wife of the year award! Guy's a lucky guy! Jamie -------------------------- Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld ----- Original Message ----- From: spitfires-bounces+james.knowles=telelogic.com at autox.team.net To: John Macartney ; triumphs at autox.team.net ; spitfires at autox.team.net Sent: Thu Jan 24 19:48:32 2008 Subject: Re: [Spits] Door measurements Hi Jonmac Guy has kindly brought a Spitfire 1500 door into the living room for me to measure for you. > TOTAL WIDTH - from leading to trailing edge directly beneath the door > handle 93cm > TOTAL HEIGHT - at trailing edge from horizontal of door bottom to beneath > handle 36cm > TOTAL HEIGHT - at leading edge from horizontal door bottom to intersect > point on the width > measurement 37.5cm A bit difficult to be sure I've measured where you're thinking of but if anyone else can do the same then you should be able to get an average of the figures. Suzie & Guy Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- Telelogic Lifecycle Solutions: Helping You Define, Design & Deliver Advanced Systems & Software Learn More at www.telelogic.com James Knowles Manager, Enterprise Architecture Solutions Telelogic UK Ltd. Parkway 1 Broxell Close CV34 5QF, Warwick United Kingdom Phone: +44 (1926) 474 126 Fax: +44 (1926) 474 101 Mobile phone:+44 (7968) 118 151 James.Knowles at telelogic.com http://www.telelogic.com Telelogic - Requirements-Driven Innovation! ------------------------------------------------------------- The information contained in this e-mail, including any attachment or enclosure, is intended only for the person or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential material. Any unauthorized use, review, retransmissions, dissemination, copying or other use of this information by persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. From spitlist at cox.net Thu Jan 24 12:55:43 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 12:55:43 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Door measurements References: <0B5F4532EB115E46920BDC5FE7938FFA063C7D54@semlm-exch.tlogic.telelogic.com> Message-ID: <008a01c85ec3$1aa34340$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Knowing Suzie, I suspect that she brings as many parts in the house as Guy does. She's a real Spitfire Gal! Joe C. ----- Original Message ----- From: "James Knowles" To: ; ; ; Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 12:39 PM Subject: Re: [Spits] Door measurements > Now there's a proper woman who allows car parts in the living room....... > I vote Suzie for Wife of the year award! Guy's a lucky guy! > Jamie From suzie.singleton at virgin.net Thu Jan 24 13:38:48 2008 From: suzie.singleton at virgin.net (Suzie) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 20:38:48 -0000 Subject: [Spits] Door measurements References: <0B5F4532EB115E46920BDC5FE7938FFA063C7D54@semlm-exch.tlogic.telelogic.com> <008a01c85ec3$1aa34340$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: <00f001c85ec9$20b17f80$0202a8c0@Singleton> Ta muchly to both of you - but Guy reckons I'm worse than he is for bringing car bits indoors. He's the one who keeps trying to keep them outside - but it's cold out there! Suzie ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Curry" > Knowing Suzie, I suspect that she brings as many parts in the house as Guy > does. She's a real Spitfire Gal! > > Joe C. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "James Knowles" > >> Now there's a proper woman who allows car parts in the living room....... >> I vote Suzie for Wife of the year award! Guy's a lucky guy! >> Jamie From thomas309 at aol.com Sat Jan 26 00:09:03 2008 From: thomas309 at aol.com (thomas309 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2008 02:09:03 EST Subject: [Spits] Spitfire for sale...NFI Message-ID: _http://newyork.craigslist.org/fct/car/551659044.html_ (http://newyork.craigslist.org/fct/car/551659044.html) I just spotted this on CT craigslist. Not mine, and NFI. Tom **************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025 48) From OKCSpitfire at sbcglobal.net Sun Jan 27 20:16:25 2008 From: OKCSpitfire at sbcglobal.net (OKCSpitfire) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2008 21:16:25 -0600 Subject: [Spits] Strange noise after swapping out transmissions In-Reply-To: <002b01c85a05$2de9ea20$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: <20080128031617.ABD501878DF@autox.team.net> Hello listers, Once again looking for a little advice. I took the complete drive train from a 77 Spitfire and placed it in my 76 Spitfire. Installed a new clutch, pressure plate an throwout bearing. Rebuilt the clutch master and slave cylinders. The trans is complete with a j-type overdrive. After completing the job, got the wiring correct thank to the LBC guru's from the forum. The problem is this strange noise when I come to a stop. The car was a daily driver before the swap and did not make this noise. The noise is like a small screw or metal object has fallen into the brake rotor. I noticed it on my first test drive following the swap but my initial thought was the throwout bearing was defective so I pulled the trans again and replaced the bearing. I used a clutch alignment tool to check the alignment and it was good. I replaced the bearing and put the trans back in the car took it for another spin and the same sound was there, secon thought was the finger on the pressure plate but then if the clutch is properly aligned it should be ok. I looked at my rotors anddid not see any foreign material lodged in the calipers or anywhere else. This is very puzzling and if anyone has run across this or has any suggestions I would greatly appreciate any input. Thanks Jerry Stasyszen OKCSpitfire at sbcglobal.net No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.8/1235 - Release Date: 1/21/2008 9:39 AM From superluke at execulink.com Mon Jan 28 06:53:45 2008 From: superluke at execulink.com (Luke Lewis) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 08:53:45 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Strange noise after swapping out transmissions References: <20080128031617.ABD501878DF@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <001701c861b5$33473a60$8800a8c0@Kickass> I had a similar sound from mine after changing tranny mounts, it was the corner of the driveshaft arch (Which I had obviously leaned on a little during tranny swaps) touching the driveshaft. Luke Parkhill, ON ----- Original Message ----- From: "OKCSpitfire" To: ; Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2008 10:16 PM Subject: [Spits] Strange noise after swapping out transmissions > Hello listers, Once again looking for a little advice. I took the complete > drive train from a 77 Spitfire and placed it in my 76 Spitfire. Installed > a > new clutch, pressure plate an throwout bearing. Rebuilt the clutch master > and slave cylinders. The trans is complete with a j-type overdrive. After > completing the job, got the wiring correct thank to the LBC guru's from > the > forum. The problem is this strange noise when I come to a stop. The car > was > a daily driver before the swap and did not make this noise. The noise is > like a small screw or metal object has fallen into the brake rotor. I > noticed it on my first test drive following the swap but my initial > thought > was the throwout bearing was defective so I pulled the trans again and > replaced the bearing. I used a clutch alignment tool to check the > alignment > and it was good. I replaced the bearing and put the trans back in the car > took it for another spin and the same sound was there, secon thought was > the > finger on the pressure plate but then if the clutch is properly aligned it > should be ok. I looked at my rotors anddid not see any foreign material > lodged in the calipers or anywhere else. This is very puzzling and if > anyone > has run across this or has any suggestions I would greatly appreciate any > input. > > Thanks > Jerry Stasyszen > OKCSpitfire at sbcglobal.net > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.8/1235 - Release Date: 1/21/2008 > 9:39 AM > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Spitfires at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires > > http://www.team.net/archive > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.11/1244 - Release Date: 25/01/2008 7:44 PM From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Mon Jan 28 15:06:33 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 15:06:33 -0700 Subject: [Spits] [Wedge] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive, January 2008 Donor Car status report In-Reply-To: <012820081428.19667.479DE670000091D800004CD322193122529B0A02D2089B9A019C04040A0DBF9C0B9A0E080C079D@att.net> References: <012820081428.19667.479DE670000091D800004CD322193122529B0A02D2089B9A019C04040A0DBF9C0B9A0E080C079D@att.net> Message-ID: <479E51E9.6050802@tscusa.org> Thanks for snagging the hook Mickey! We will let you know if these units will be transporting or not and I'll put you on the truck/trailer list. Thanks again richauds at bellsouth.net wrote: > Hey, Glenn - > > I may be a bit south of the mark (typical!), but if the trip participants find themselves along I-24 in Tennessee, I'd be happy to pitch in any way I can. > > Best regards, > Mickey > > -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From jf.heyward at paradise.net.nz Mon Jan 28 15:50:49 2008 From: jf.heyward at paradise.net.nz (Julian Heyward) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 11:50:49 +1300 Subject: [Spits] Mkiv Spitfire Bonnet/Hood Wanted Message-ID: <3175E986B9C14069ADE01D99450815CC@UserPC> Hi there, Im in need of a mkIV or even GT6 bonnet/hood for my project and get it to New Zealand, good ones are very thin on the ground in this part of the world. Thanks juju No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.14/1247 - Release Date: 28/01/2008 10:59 a.m. From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Jan 28 16:57:55 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 18:57:55 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Mkiv Spitfire Bonnet/Hood Wanted In-Reply-To: <3175E986B9C14069ADE01D99450815CC@UserPC> Message-ID: <479E25B3.76.F574568@localhost> On 29 Jan 2008 at 11:50, Julian Heyward wrote: > I m in need of a mkIV or even GT6 bonnet/hood for my project Sorry, I can't help you. > and get it to New Zealand, good ones are very thin on the ground > in this part of the world. Well, that's not a surprise. If you insist on living on the bottom of the world things will tend to fall off. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From jf.heyward at paradise.net.nz Tue Jan 29 16:12:03 2008 From: jf.heyward at paradise.net.nz (Julian Heyward) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 12:12:03 +1300 Subject: [Spits] Bonnet Wanted Message-ID: <9E30B18BF7E64D32B3DCA856E8581AEC@UserPC> Hi Jim, Thanks for the input, but remember in a stagnant pool what do you find floating to the top?:) juju No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.15/1249 - Release Date: 29/01/2008 9:51 a.m.