From jwolff3 at verizon.net  Wed Dec  3 15:01:28 2008
From: jwolff3 at verizon.net (jwolff3 at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 2008 16:01:28 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [Spits] Spitfire roundtail left rear body parts needed
Message-ID: <1315574494.6208831228341688389.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost>

HI,
Does anyone have an early Spitfire parts car lying around? I basically 
need the rear lamp panel and drain channel which are NLA pictured here: 
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/spitfire/images/154a.gif

I will also need some of the rear inner fender (car was hit in the rear 
corner at some point in it's life and repaired badly). I'm located in 
Northern VA and the guy doing the bodywork as well as the car are in 
western MD, so if anybody is somewhat local to either of these locations 
one of us could possibly come and cut out the sections or if someone 
wants to sell a car whole for cheap...

The car is a 1965, but I think any round tail car would work...
Thanks in advance for any leads or information!

Jason

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sat Dec  6 14:44:20 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sat, 06 Dec 2008 16:44:20 -0500
Subject: [Spits] Got the tranny out
Message-ID: <493AABE4.32491.9411A1C@localhost>

Yahoo, sort of.  Got the GT6 gearbox out.  Sure didn't expect to find 
the time but it made itself available.  The garage wasn't too cold 
and it isn't snowing yet.  Now I can start disassembly, which must be 
the reverse of assembly, I am sure...

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From wbmcleod at gmail.com  Wed Dec 10 10:25:44 2008
From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod)
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2008 10:25:44 -0700
Subject: [Spits] Fwd: Lotus, Abarth and Triumph wheels on ebay
References: <BAY101-W44CFA6129EB60E79E719E4C9FB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <E24033DD-BE48-48D9-81AA-B3E06462CE59@gmail.com>

I received this message from a good friend who works on Italian cars,  
who bought these wheels by mistake, thinking that they would fit a  
Fiat.  The message is self-explanatory and may provide a bargain for  
owners of some of the more exotic cars!  NFI, just a friend; I have  
not researched bolt patterns on the cars mentioned.
TIA
Bill
Slightly Classics
Tucson

Begin forwarded message:

> From: Val Danilov <valdanilov at msn.com>
> Date: December 10, 2008 9:06:30 AM GMT-07:00
> To: Bill McLeod <wbmcleod at gmail.com>
> Subject: Lotus and Triumph wheels
>
> Hi Bill,
>
> take a look here:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190272738845
>
> I bought these wheels, as they normally come with a Fiat 4x98 bolt  
> pattern, and are rare as hell, and very expensive (up to $1000 for a  
> set!).
> Probably the lightest magnesium wheel you can ever get for your race  
> car!
>
> Anyway, I realized my mistake, and asked the seller to relist them  
> for me, as I cannot really use them.
>
> I doubt any of the people on your forums ever search for  
> "Cromodora", so they'll appreciate it too!
> These are the famous Carlo Abarth wheels from the early/mid  
> seventies, and were used on Abarth vehicles.
> I guess a limited number was made for Lotus, Triumph bolt pattern as  
> well, but this is the first time I came across a bolt pattern  
> different from Fiat.
>
> If they do not sell, I'm out of $400, as I've already paid for them.  
> Thanks,
>
> Val

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Dec 15 20:18:31 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 22:18:31 -0500
Subject: [Spits] help on gearbox disassembly
Message-ID: <4946D7B7.19708.C415F0D@localhost>

I know it's supposed to be the reverse of re-assembly, but I'm still 
stuck on a few points.

GT6 3-rail gearbox, no OD.  I've got the top off, speedo drive 
removed, rear flange removed from the output shaft.  The Haynes 
manual which I'm trying to follow gives two instructions, one to 
remove the nut on the flange and remove the flange, and another to 
remove the flange.  I don't quite get what they're driving at; why 
two instructions unless there' something about the first that I 
missed.  It looks like there is a rubber seal and a bearing in the 
extension housing.

Anyway, the next step is to pull the extension off the box "by 
tapping underneath the mounting stud with a leather mallet."  Yeah, 
right.  The picture shows someone casually pulling the extension from 
over the shaft, but I'm not there yet.  I've managed to lift the 
extension from the box by maybe 1/16th inch, just enough to break the 
gasket seal so I have to finish the job.  But it looks like it is 
being held in place by that bearing possibly pressed into the end.  
Is the proper technique just to keep tapping so as to move a bearing 
off the shaft?  Do I need to remove that seal first?

I'm starting to wonder why I'm doing all this.  The box sure looks 
good inside to my casual inspection.  But now I'll have to re-seat 
that gasket or else force enough Hylomar into the space to seal it.

So what's the magic incantation to pull that extension off?  Is it 
just another pint of ale?  I suppose I should be using a Bentley 
manual but it turns out mine is for the single-rail box in a 1500.  
Don't know whether it would be different.

Thanks!

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From doug at dougbraun.com  Mon Dec 15 20:38:31 2008
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 19:38:31 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Spits] help on gearbox disassembly
In-Reply-To: <4946D7B7.19708.C415F0D@localhost>
Message-ID: <271825.21686.qm@web606.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I don't recall ever having any difficulty getting the rear extension housing off.

I hop you didn't take the instructions too literally, and try to remove the flange without removing the nut first.  :-)

Do you have to do anything relating to the speedometer drive?
I forget, but does the speedometer drive assembly have to come out first?

A piece of 2x4 is an excellent substitute for a leather mallet.


You definitely do have to remove the rear housing, so that the
main shaft and the counter shaft can come out.

Doug Braun
'72 Spit



--- On Mon, 12/15/08, Jim Muller <jimmuller at rcn.com> wrote:

> From: Jim Muller <jimmuller at rcn.com>
> Subject: [Spits] help on gearbox disassembly
> To: Spitfires at autox.team.net
> Date: Monday, December 15, 2008, 10:18 PM
> I know it's supposed to be the reverse of re-assembly,
> but I'm still 
> stuck on a few points.
> 
> GT6 3-rail gearbox, no OD.  I've got the top off,
> speedo drive 
> removed, rear flange removed from the output shaft.  The
> Haynes 
> manual which I'm trying to follow gives two
> instructions, one to 
> remove the nut on the flange and remove the flange, and
> another to 
> remove the flange.  I don't quite get what they're
> driving at; why 
> two instructions unless there' something about the
> first that I 
> missed.  It looks like there is a rubber seal and a bearing
> in the 
> extension housing.
> 
> Anyway, the next step is to pull the extension off the box
> "by 
> tapping underneath the mounting stud with a leather
> mallet."  Yeah, 
> right.  The picture shows someone casually pulling the
> extension from 
> over the shaft, but I'm not there yet.  I've
> managed to lift the 
> extension from the box by maybe 1/16th inch, just enough to
> break the 
> gasket seal so I have to finish the job.  But it looks like
> it is 
> being held in place by that bearing possibly pressed into
> the end.  
> Is the proper technique just to keep tapping so as to move
> a bearing 
> off the shaft?  Do I need to remove that seal first?
> 
> I'm starting to wonder why I'm doing all this.  The
> box sure looks 
> good inside to my casual inspection.  But now I'll have
> to re-seat 
> that gasket or else force enough Hylomar into the space to
> seal it.
> 
> So what's the magic incantation to pull that extension
> off?  Is it 
> just another pint of ale?  I suppose I should be using a
> Bentley 
> manual but it turns out mine is for the single-rail box in
> a 1500.  
> Don't know whether it would be different.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> -- 
> Jim Muller
> jimmuller at rcn.com
> '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Dec 16 05:27:19 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 07:27:19 -0500
Subject: [Spits] help on gearbox disassembly
In-Reply-To: <271825.21686.qm@web606.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <4946D7B7.19708.C415F0D@localhost>
Message-ID: <49475857.4155.E37CE0A@localhost>

On 15 Dec 2008 at 19:38, Doug Braun wrote:

> I hope you didn't take the instructions too literally, and try
> to remove the flange without removing the nut first. :-)

Ohhhhhhhhhhhh!

So you're saying I didn't need the Sawzall after all.

> I forget, but does the speedometer drive assembly have to come
> out first?

It's out.  Not too difficult.

I shall continue this evening with what the old Porsche manuals used 
to call a "suitable drift".  If it has moved this far it must be 
moveable, I suppose.

Thanks,

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Dec 16 21:55:10 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 23:55:10 -0500
Subject: [Spits] GT6 gearbox progress
Message-ID: <49483FDE.30786.11C03717@localhost>

Well, I've made some progress, learned a bunch never having done this 
before.  Got the rear extension and bell housing off.  Got the input 
shaft out.  Got the reverse idler shaft out, and the layshaft.

It's been interesting trying to follow the instructions.  I'm using 
the 3-rail gearbox section of the Haynes Spitfire book.  I checked my 
Bentley manual, which is for the 1500 only.  Sinlge-rail or 3, it has 
so little detail that it would have been mostly useless.  But the 
Haynes manual doesn't quite agree with my gearbox either.  Maybe the 
GT6 box is sufficiently different, or the box changed a bit from 
early to late 3-rail versions.  For example:

The manual says to remove the top by removing the eight bolts, and 
note which is the long one.  Sure, there were eight bolts but none 
was longer.  But there are actually nine holes, one being empty.

The manual says to lift the reverse idler gear out.  But the gear 
clears neither the gear behind it on the output shaft nor the cluster 
gear.  And anyway, it is too large to come through the hole at the 
back end of the gearbox shell, which I discovered after I removed the 
reverse idler shaft.

The manual did not mention a pin bolt on the reverse idler shaft, but 
there is one.  And I thought (I'm starting to forget what it says!) 
it said there was a pin bolt holding the layshaft, but there wasn't.

There were three springs through the front of the gearbox shell, held 
in place by the bell housing and apparently exerting pressure on a 
thrust plate at the front of the layshaft.  These were not mentioned 
in the manual.  The layshaft lifted out easily from the back.  I do 
hope it will go back in as easily!  Well, all those parts went in 
once before so it can't be too hard.

So far I see nothing untoward, nothing obviously broken, no broken 
input bearing visible on casual inspection, no broken teeth.  As I 
take the various gears out I expect to see a worn bearing at least on 
something related to 2nd.  That must wait for tomorrow...

Is there anything in particular I should be looking for?  Some 
measurement that is more critical that others?  Sure is some pretty 
brass in there.

Tanks!

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From doug at dougbraun.com  Tue Dec 16 22:13:09 2008
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 21:13:09 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Spits] GT6 gearbox progress
In-Reply-To: <49483FDE.30786.11C03717@localhost>
Message-ID: <310459.5489.qm@web604.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Your box is definitely different than a Spitfire transmission.  For example, the Spitfire version definitely does not have that 3-spring thing you mentioned.

Have a look at the parts diagrams at spitbits.com to see if they match what you have.

Check that the 1-2 slider fits and slides nicely on its hub, and that the little springs and balls are OK.  When I got my Spit, it turned out that those parts had been improperly hardened at the factory, and they were very worn.  The slider was basically flopping around on its hub.

Did you use the dummy shaft trick to remove the laygear without getting those little needles all over the place?  And don;t forget the grease trick when re-installing them...


Good luck,

Doug


--- On Tue, 12/16/08, Jim Muller <jimmuller at rcn.com> wrote:

> From: Jim Muller <jimmuller at rcn.com>
> Subject: [Spits] GT6 gearbox progress
> To: Triumphs at autox.team.net, Spitfires at autox.team.net
> Date: Tuesday, December 16, 2008, 11:55 PM
> Well, I've made some progress, learned a bunch never
> having done this 
> before.  

From gaf3 at charter.net  Thu Dec 18 08:35:40 2008
From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco)
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2008 10:35:40 -0500
Subject: [Spits] Spitfires Digest, Vol 2, Issue 203
In-Reply-To: <mailman.13.1229540402.29013.spitfires@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.13.1229540402.29013.spitfires@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <494A6DCC.9030705@charter.net>

Jim
For whatever reason you decided to go into the transmission, there's a 
few things you need to check.

    There should be a spec that indicates the clearance of the
    sinchronizers. This would indicate a worn synchro ring. Also look
    for rounded edges on the synchro teeth.
    Look for worn or galled input and output shaft bearings that can
    cause noise. rumbling at idle
    You will need a dummy shaft and some wire or rope to reinstall the
    cluster gear with all it's needle bearings and thrust washers.

I rebuilt a 3 rail for my race car about a year ago. The most difficult 
job is getting the cluster back in position without loosing
the needle bearings.

I replaced needle bearings, thrust washers and seals and synchro's

Good luck
---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 23:55:10 -0500
> From: "Jim Muller" <jimmuller at rcn.com>
> Subject: [Spits] GT6 gearbox progress
> To: Triumphs at autox.team.net, Spitfires at autox.team.net
> Message-ID: <49483FDE.30786.11C03717 at localhost>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
>
> Well, I've made some progress, learned a bunch never having done this 
> before.  Got the rear extension and bell housing off.  Got the input 
> shaft out.  Got the reverse idler shaft out, and the layshaft.
>
> something related to 2nd.  That must wait for tomorrow...
>
> Is there anything in particular I should be looking for?  Some 
> measurement that is more critical that others?  Sure is some pretty 
> brass in there.
>
> Tanks!

From s1500 at comcast.net  Thu Dec 18 13:04:36 2008
From: s1500 at comcast.net (s1500 at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2008 20:04:36 +0000
Subject: [Spits] Test message
Message-ID: <121820082004.28320.494AACD4000BE41A00006EA02200750784CFCFCACE9C@comcast.net>

Just doing a quick test here. The message I sent out whilst in Poland for some reason did not get through. 

From doug at dougbraun.com  Fri Dec 19 07:16:00 2008
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 06:16:00 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Spits] Spitfires Digest, Vol 2, Issue 203
In-Reply-To: <494A6DCC.9030705@charter.net>
Message-ID: <296494.8578.qm@web604.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

This is where the "dummy shaft trick" will help out:

First get a wood or plastic shaft the same diameter as the
real countershaft, and a wee bit shorter then the cluster gear.

Then fit the needles to each end of the cluster gear, using vaseline or grease to hold them in place.

Then put the dummy shaft in the cluster, to firmly hold the needles in place.

Then drop the cluster gear into the case.

Finally, when it is time to slide in the layshaft, it will push the dummy shaft out the other end, and the needles will stay where they belong.

I still have my dummy shaft (a piece of dowel) that I made up about 16 years ago.

Doug




--- On Thu, 12/18/08, Glenn Franco <gaf3 at charter.net> wrote:


> I rebuilt a 3 rail for my race car about a year ago. The
> most difficult 
> job is getting the cluster back in position without loosing
> the needle bearings.

From bill at gingerich.us  Fri Dec 19 10:58:54 2008
From: bill at gingerich.us (bill at gingerich.us)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 10:58:54 -0700
Subject: [Spits] Spitfires Digest, Vol 2, Issue 203
Message-ID: <20081219105854.4412066ecf79773770454ed1d3ca4b3c.9218490841.wbe@email01.secureserver.net>

   If  you're  replacing  the layshaft, how about just shortening the old
   one and using that?

   BillG

   OKC

   -------- Original Message --------
   Subject: Re: [Spits] Spitfires Digest, Vol 2, Issue 203
   From: Doug Braun <doug at dougbraun.com>
   Date: Fri, December 19, 2008 8:16 am
   To: spitfires at autox.team.net, Glenn Franco <gaf3 at charter.net>
   This is where the "dummy shaft trick" will help out:
   First get a wood or plastic shaft the same diameter as the
   real countershaft, and a wee bit shorter then the cluster gear.
   Then  fit  the needles to each end of the cluster gear, using vaseline
   or grease to hold them in place.
   Then put the dummy shaft in the cluster, to firmly hold the needles in
   place.
   Then drop the cluster gear into the case.
   Finally,  when  it  is time to slide in the layshaft, it will push the
   dummy  shaft  out  the other end, and the needles will stay where they
   belong.
   I still have my dummy shaft (a piece of dowel) that I made up about 16
   years ago.
   Doug
   --- On Thu, 12/18/08, Glenn Franco <gaf3 at charter.net> wrote:
   > I rebuilt a 3 rail for my race car about a year ago. The
   > most difficult
   > job is getting the cluster back in position without loosing
   > the needle bearings.
   _______________________________________________
   Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
   Spitfires at autox.team.net
   http://autox.team .net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
   http://www.team.net/archive

From gaf3 at charter.net  Fri Dec 19 15:28:00 2008
From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 17:28:00 -0500
Subject: [Spits] Spitfires Digest, Vol 2, Issue 203
In-Reply-To: <296494.8578.qm@web604.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <296494.8578.qm@web604.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <494C1FF0.7010201@charter.net>

I was lucky enough to have spare parts so I cut down a cluster gear 
shaft when I rebuilt my trans.
To put the cluster in position to install, I used mechanics wire to pull 
up the cluster gear.
Good Luck
\Glenn

Doug Braun wrote:
> This is where the "dummy shaft trick" will help out:
>
> First get a wood or plastic shaft the same diameter as the
> real countershaft, and a wee bit shorter then the cluster gear.
>
> Then fit the needles to each end of the cluster gear, using vaseline or grease to hold them in place.
>
> Then put the dummy shaft in the cluster, to firmly hold the needles in place.
>
> Then drop the cluster gear into the case.
>
> Finally, when it is time to slide in the layshaft, it will push the dummy shaft out the other end, and the needles will stay where they belong.
>
> I still have my dummy shaft (a piece of dowel) that I made up about 16 years ago.
>
> Doug
>
>
>
>
> --- On Thu, 12/18/08, Glenn Franco <gaf3 at charter.net> wrote:
>
>
>   
>> I rebuilt a 3 rail for my race car about a year ago. The
>> most difficult 
>> job is getting the cluster back in position without loosing
>> the needle bearings.

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Dec 19 16:59:29 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 18:59:29 -0500
Subject: [Spits] What's the next gearbox move????
Message-ID: <494BEF11.30231.20249584@localhost>

HELP!  Bill Gingerich has kindly offered to fax me some good 
instructions, but I thought I'd ask the Font Of Automotive Wisdom on 
this anyway.

I'm still stuck trying to disassemble my GT6 gearobx.  Got the 
layshaft out, but the cluster gear is still loose in the bottom of 
the case.  Got the input shaft out easily.  The next instruction says 
to drive the mainshaft backwards to push the rear bearing out, which 
will let the mainshaft tilt upward enough so that the gears will 
start coming off.  Did that.  Problem is, the gear at the back (1st?) 
contacts the case long before the bearing is free.  I removed the 
circlip which anchors the output shaft to the rear of the bearing, 
and managed to move the bearing a big further out (rearward) by 
moving it on the shaft as well as the case.  Moving this bearing is 
tedious and requires prying it on one side then the other, moving it 
mils at a time.  It still has 1/4 in to go.  But I see no other way 
to get the gears off the mainshaft.

I just finished off a bottle of Ipswich Stout, but it didn't help.  
Now what?  There must be a way.

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com

From cwn74 at aol.com  Fri Dec 19 17:13:17 2008
From: cwn74 at aol.com (Clark W. Nicholls)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 19:13:17 -0500
Subject: [Spits] What's the next gearbox move????
In-Reply-To: <494BEF11.30231.20249584@localhost>
References: <494BEF11.30231.20249584@localhost>
Message-ID: <B484237A9A0848F1B1BFDF82FF39AF9B@semperon3400>

Trying to do all this in my head from 20-year ago memory without the parts
in front of me...

If the input shaft is out and the counter cluster is dropped to the bottom
of the case and the rear clip is off the mainshaft outside the bearing......

Can you pound carefully on the rear end of the mainshaft with a 2x4 to
protect the threads (or something else likewise) to increase the clearance
between the rear gears and the bearing? 
Be sure the gears don't interface with the counter cluster!

Then move the mainshaft rearwards and bring the bearing out of the case.
You may need to insert something between the rear gear and the bearing to
prevent the mainshaft reassuming it's original position.

Slide the bearing off the mainshaft.
You need to remove the speedo drive gear first.

Now you can tip the mainshaft up and remove
-Or-
Remove the clip holding the front gears on the mainshaft and remove some to
allow you to tip up and remove.

Something like that...

Clark
Clark W. Nicholls
'72 Stag '74 Spitfire
"Reality... It's not what you think."

From doug at dougbraun.com  Fri Dec 19 21:35:30 2008
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 20:35:30 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Spits] What's the next gearbox move????
In-Reply-To: <B484237A9A0848F1B1BFDF82FF39AF9B@semperon3400>
Message-ID: <418054.14711.qm@web608.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

The gearbox is sort of a Chinese Puzzle, but (for the Spitfire at least) the Haynes book describes well enough how to do it.

Doug


--- On Fri, 12/19/08, Clark W. Nicholls <cwn74 at aol.com> wrote:

> From: Clark W. Nicholls <cwn74 at aol.com>
> Subject: Re: [Spits] What's the next gearbox move????
> To: jimmuller at rcn.com, Triumphs at autox.team.net, Spitfires at autox.team.net
> Date: Friday, December 19, 2008, 7:13 PM
> Trying to do all this in my head from 20-year ago memory
> without the parts
> in front of me...
> 
> If the input shaft is out and the counter cluster is
> dropped to the bottom
> of the case and the rear clip is off the mainshaft outside
> the bearing......
> 
> Can you pound carefully on the rear end of the mainshaft
> with a 2x4 to
> protect the threads (or something else likewise) to
> increase the clearance
> between the rear gears and the bearing? 
> Be sure the gears don't interface with the counter
> cluster!
> 
> Then move the mainshaft rearwards and bring the bearing out
> of the case.
> You may need to insert something between the rear gear and
> the bearing to
> prevent the mainshaft reassuming it's original
> position.
> 
> Slide the bearing off the mainshaft.
> You need to remove the speedo drive gear first.
> 
> Now you can tip the mainshaft up and remove
> -Or-
> Remove the clip holding the front gears on the mainshaft
> and remove some to
> allow you to tip up and remove.
> 
> Something like that...
> 
> Clark
> Clark W. Nicholls
> '72 Stag '74 Spitfire
> "Reality... It's not what you think."
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Windoseat at aol.com  Sat Dec 20 12:59:48 2008
From: Windoseat at aol.com (Windoseat at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2008 14:59:48 EST
Subject: [Spits] What's the next gearbox move????
Message-ID: <d66.3aa64c77.367ea8b4@aol.com>

The factory service manual indicates that an abutment plate (flat  piece of 
steel) should be fitted at the rear of the gearbox case across the rear  
bearing opening to provide a surface for the gear to bear upon. The photo  doesn't 
show it but there must be a spacer on the abutment plate that protrudes  into 
the gear case to provide a surface for the main shaft to bear against. This  
same arrangement could be made from a straight steel bar and a large socket  or 
cylindrical piece of steel. 
 
Greg Wolf
Bridgewater, Michigan
 
 
In a message dated 12/19/2008 6:59:52 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
jimmuller at rcn.com writes:

HELP!  Bill Gingerich has kindly offered to fax me some good  
instructions, but I thought I'd ask the Font Of Automotive Wisdom on  
this anyway.

I'm still stuck trying to disassemble my GT6  gearobx.  Got the 
layshaft out, but the cluster gear is still loose  in the bottom of 
the case.  Got the input shaft out easily.  The  next instruction says 
to drive the mainshaft backwards to push the rear  bearing out, which 
will let the mainshaft tilt upward enough so that the  gears will 
start coming off.  Did that.  Problem is, the gear at  the back (1st?) 
contacts the case long before the bearing is free.  I  removed the 
circlip which anchors the output shaft to the rear of the  bearing, 
and managed to move the bearing a big further out (rearward) by  
moving it on the shaft as well as the case.  Moving this bearing is  
tedious and requires prying it on one side then the other, moving it  
mils at a time.  It still has 1/4 in to go.  But I see no other  way 
to get the gears off the mainshaft.

I just finished off a  bottle of Ipswich Stout, but it didn't help.  
Now what?  There  must be a way.

Jim  Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

http://www.team.net/archive


**************One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, 
Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000025)

From s1500 at comcast.net  Sat Dec 20 22:08:48 2008
From: s1500 at comcast.net (s1500 at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2008 05:08:48 +0000
Subject: [Spits] where I got stuck on gearbox disassy
Message-ID: <122120080508.13531.494DCF6000017B46000034DB2206424613CFCFCACE9C@comcast.net>

Sounds like where I got stuck on gearbox disassembly when I did it on my '79. What I got stuck on was there was that little chuck key thing you can hammer out(ie "with a suitable drift") and then the mainshaft bearing can be removed. I think that chuck key thing is what keeps one of the gears still, or at least prevents it from sliding off(thus being able to remove it). 

From doug at dougbraun.com  Sun Dec 21 08:15:38 2008
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2008 07:15:38 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Spits] where I got stuck on gearbox disassy
In-Reply-To: <122120080508.13531.494DCF6000017B46000034DB2206424613CFCFCACE9C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <993129.92474.qm@web604.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Isn't there a little Woodreff key (the half-moon shaped thingie) for the plastic speedometer gear?

That would definitely have to come off.  They usually pop off with a gentle pry from a small screwdriver.

Doug


--- On Sun, 12/21/08, s1500 at comcast.net <s1500 at comcast.net> wrote:

> From: s1500 at comcast.net <s1500 at comcast.net>
> Subject: [Spits] where I got stuck on gearbox disassy
> To: spitfires at autox.team.net
> Date: Sunday, December 21, 2008, 12:08 AM
> Sounds like where I got stuck on gearbox disassembly when I
> did it on my '79. What I got stuck on was there was that
> little chuck key thing you can hammer out(ie "with a
> suitable drift") and then the mainshaft bearing can be
> removed. I think that chuck key thing is what keeps one of
> the gears still, or at least prevents it from sliding
> off(thus being able to remove it). 

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Mon Dec 22 16:45:49 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2008 23:45:49 -0000
Subject: [Spits] Greetings one and all
Message-ID: <C907033FCD2E49C6B88AC97825B635BE@Bevan>

Over the ten + years I've been reading the daily missives from these lists, I've never known it so 
late before the usual Christmas Greetings have started going out. Maybe list janitors have put a 
block on them and surely I can't be the first?
So, if they haven't filtered Seasons Greeting notes to the trash-can, a very Happy Christmas to you 
and your families - and I greatly look forward to being able to put many faces to names as I 
complete my Canada and U.S. odyssey next year. Being now completely Triumph-less, I'm also looking 
forward to reading (in a few days time) of how many 'best beloveds' have invested in bottom end 
gasket sets, reliable flasher units, non-squeaking clutch release bearings, 6-3-1 exhaust 
manifolds - and other 'essentialatum' for you all.
Therefore, "Happy Christmas" and remember, whatever you do over the holiday that you enjoy, it's 
probably a sin :)

Jonmac


Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk

An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation 

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Dec 22 18:56:28 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2008 18:56:28 -0700
Subject: [Spits] Greetings one and all
In-Reply-To: <C907033FCD2E49C6B88AC97825B635BE@Bevan>
References: <C907033FCD2E49C6B88AC97825B635BE@Bevan>
Message-ID: <36CB5616EB0149E18C830CE6941B3DAC@newcomputer>

John,
Perhaps the economy is so bad that most people are not feeling particularly
festive this year.

Being unemployed myself, I can certainly vouch for the dismal feelings that
are accompanying this holiday season.

But I try to make the best of it and will be having both my kids and their
families here this year.  So it can't be all bad.

Cheers,
Joe 

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney
Sent: Monday, December 22, 2008 16:46
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; spitfires at autox.team.net; 6-Pack
Subject: [Spits] Greetings one and all

Over the ten + years I've been reading the daily missives from these lists,
I've never known it so 
late before the usual Christmas Greetings have started going out. Maybe list
janitors have put a 
block on them and surely I can't be the first?
So, if they haven't filtered Seasons Greeting notes to the trash-can, a very
Happy Christmas to you 
and your families - and I greatly look forward to being able to put many
faces to names as I 
complete my Canada and U.S. odyssey next year. Being now completely
Triumph-less, I'm also looking 
forward to reading (in a few days time) of how many 'best beloveds' have
invested in bottom end 
gasket sets, reliable flasher units, non-squeaking clutch release bearings,
6-3-1 exhaust 
manifolds - and other 'essentialatum' for you all.
Therefore, "Happy Christmas" and remember, whatever you do over the holiday
that you enjoy, it's 
probably a sin :)

Jonmac


Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk

An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation 
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

http://www.team.net/archive

From bill at gingerich.us  Mon Dec 22 19:21:03 2008
From: bill at gingerich.us (Bill Gingerich)
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2008 20:21:03 -0600
Subject: [Spits] Greetings one and all
In-Reply-To: <36CB5616EB0149E18C830CE6941B3DAC@newcomputer>
References: <C907033FCD2E49C6B88AC97825B635BE@Bevan>
	<36CB5616EB0149E18C830CE6941B3DAC@newcomputer>
Message-ID: <42DD4C7813184C3591803036245650F2@shack2>

John & Joe,

I'll second Joe's comment that feeling festive is proving to be problematic
for many this year.  I too am unemployed, and may soon be forced to sell my
house, rather than lose it to foreclosure.  From a personal financial
perspective, I'm in the worst shape in the 35 years of my adult life.  That
being said, I'm not dead yet, and as long as I'm breathing, I believe there
are possibilities.  Perhaps 2009 will see those possibilities come to
fruition.

With that, I will wish everyone the best of the Holiday Season, and a very
Happy New Year!  May the future bring all of us the joy, prosperity, and
renewal we need.

Bill G
OKC
'74 Spitfire

      

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry
Sent: Monday, December 22, 2008 7:56 PM
To: 'John Macartney'; triumphs at autox.team.net; spitfires at autox.team.net;
'6-Pack'
Subject: Re: [Spits] Greetings one and all

John,
Perhaps the economy is so bad that most people are not feeling particularly
festive this year.

Being unemployed myself, I can certainly vouch for the dismal feelings that
are accompanying this holiday season.

But I try to make the best of it and will be having both my kids and their
families here this year.  So it can't be all bad.

Cheers,
Joe 

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney
Sent: Monday, December 22, 2008 16:46
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; spitfires at autox.team.net; 6-Pack
Subject: [Spits] Greetings one and all

Over the ten + years I've been reading the daily missives from these lists,
I've never known it so 
late before the usual Christmas Greetings have started going out. Maybe list
janitors have put a 
block on them and surely I can't be the first?
So, if they haven't filtered Seasons Greeting notes to the trash-can, a very
Happy Christmas to you 
and your families - and I greatly look forward to being able to put many
faces to names as I 
complete my Canada and U.S. odyssey next year. Being now completely
Triumph-less, I'm also looking 
forward to reading (in a few days time) of how many 'best beloveds' have
invested in bottom end 
gasket sets, reliable flasher units, non-squeaking clutch release bearings,
6-3-1 exhaust 
manifolds - and other 'essentialatum' for you all.
Therefore, "Happy Christmas" and remember, whatever you do over the holiday
that you enjoy, it's 
probably a sin :)

Jonmac


Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk

An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation 
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

http://www.team.net/archive
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

http://www.team.net/archive

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Dec 22 19:47:43 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2008 21:47:43 -0500
Subject: [Spits] [TR] Greetings one and all
In-Reply-To: <C907033FCD2E49C6B88AC97825B635BE@Bevan>
Message-ID: <49500AFF.1237.50ADCD0@localhost>

On 22 Dec 2008 at 23:45, John Macartney wrote:

> Over the ten + years I've been reading the daily missives
> from these lists, I've never known it so late before the
> usual Christmas Greetings have started going out.

Wha'??  Whoa, it's December already!!

The truth is, John, it's been an exhausting season for at least some 
places this side of The Pond.  Some of us are still shoveling snow 
from last week, some are still without electricity, some are still 
digging out from forest fires.  Some are without jobs at all, and 
many of us are looking at a receding retirement horizon.  I think a 
few places still have some campaign posters scattered about, and even 
a few unresolved elections.  A time-out would be good about now.

Nevertheless, thank you for bringing it up, and thanks to all of you 
for being cyber-friends and offering so much advice.  It's good to 
pause every so often and look around at our blessings.  May your 
future be Triumphant!

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From stevebez at gmail.com  Tue Dec 23 15:06:09 2008
From: stevebez at gmail.com (Steve Beswick)
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2008 14:06:09 -0800
Subject: [Spits] seasons greetings!
Message-ID: <6406DD17-2530-47F4-842E-F12271BC7C28@gmail.com>

In feburary I'll be locking the door to my frame shop for the last  
time. No, I'm not retiring. I just can't afford to stay open anymore.  
On the plus side I don't have to worry about going into foreclosure  
because it allready happened to me about 6 years ago. I now live in a  
run down apartment just north of the airport.

I also have my health, my relative youth and most importantly my  
family. My in-laws (whom I like) are coming for Christmas. To me  
things couldn't be better. I have a roof over my head and a loving  
family. What else could a guy need? My only regret this year is not  
having done more to help the homeless gentleman that lives in a tent  
over by the freeway. Remember, no matter how bad things may seem,  
there is always someone who is less fortunate than you.

On that depressing note, have a merry Christmas and a happy new year!
Oh yeah, don't forget to help those in need.

-Steve

From invite+z6p1lizz at facebookmail.com  Wed Dec 24 16:03:45 2008
From: invite+z6p1lizz at facebookmail.com (Mitch Johnson)
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2008 15:03:45 -0800
Subject: [Spits] Check out my Facebook profile
Message-ID: <bc5fa708cb306bdb7961c8b800b02bfc@www.facebook.com>

I set up a Facebook profile where I can post my pictures, videos and events
and I want to add you as a friend so you can see it. First, you need to join
Facebook! Once you join, you can also create your own profile.

Thanks,
Mitch

To sign up for Facebook, follow the link below:
http://www.facebook.com/p.php?i=1206582920&k=Z6LY3VQZU54FUCECRK22XTP&r

From spitfiresrule at msn.com  Wed Dec 24 16:08:31 2008
From: spitfiresrule at msn.com (MITCH D JOHNSON)
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2008 16:08:31 -0700
Subject: [Spits] Check out my Facebook profile
In-Reply-To: <bc5fa708cb306bdb7961c8b800b02bfc@www.facebook.com>
References: <bc5fa708cb306bdb7961c8b800b02bfc@www.facebook.com>
Message-ID: <BAY106-DS22DF0AA075B35DCD507D6BEED0@phx.gbl>

Sorry Mates,
Ment this for someone with a similar address.....
>From the snow covered Rockies,
Happy Holidays!


Mitch D. Johnson
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Mitch Johnson<mailto:invite+z6p1lizz at facebookmail.com>
  To: spitfires at autox.team.net<mailto:spitfires at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2008 4:03 PM
  Subject: [Spits] Check out my Facebook profile


  I set up a Facebook profile where I can post my pictures, videos and events
  and I want to add you as a friend so you can see it. First, you need to
join
  Facebook! Once you join, you can also create your own profile.

  Thanks,
  Mitch

  To sign up for Facebook, follow the link below:
  http://www.facebook.com/p.php?i=1206582920&k=Z6LY3VQZU54FUCECRK22XTP&r<http
://www.facebook.com/p.php?i=1206582920&k=Z6LY3VQZU54FUCECRK22XTP&r>
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>

  Spitfires at autox.team.net<mailto:Spitfires at autox.team.net>
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires<http://autox.team.net/mail
man/listinfo/spitfires>

  http://www.team.net/archive<http://www.team.net/archive>

From red_tr250 at yahoo.com  Thu Dec 25 09:50:28 2008
From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2008 08:50:28 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Spits] Rear spring GT6
Message-ID: <958476.9696.qm@web43145.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Hi all,

I've been in contact with the PO of our '67 GT6. 
Apparently he installed a MK3 GT6 spring in the rear. 
He said it was wider/longer so he had 1/4" spacers
made to install at the diff.  Apparently with the
longer spring you'd have really bad camber(I'm
guessing positive camber)?  I don't know if that's
correct or not?  Also, I don't believe there is a
bushing in the ends of the spring.  Does there have to
be?

Also, if it's true and the spring is wider/longer, can
I still use the camber compensator?  I don't know how
much longer it is?

Oh and on the front springs.  Who's a good source for
uprated springs? 

Cheers,

Todd Bermudez # 597
Cincinnati, OH
'68 GT6 MK1 RHD

From nmoseley at dccnet.com  Thu Dec 25 11:47:12 2008
From: nmoseley at dccnet.com (Nick Moseley)
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2008 10:47:12 -0800
Subject: [Spits] Merry Christmas/ Happy holidays
Message-ID: <174CFC1625704FE9891703A0EA2BF799@yourb27fb1c401>

Merry Christmas to all fellow Spit-sters and your families.

May your Spit projects all be successful.

I wish you all a happy, healthy, and safe holiday, followed by a magnificent
year of abundant health, safety,  successes and prosperity.

May those of us currently un-employed (myself among them) find the jobs of
our dreams, or at last well-paying ones in which we can excel.

Most importantly, have fun and be safe. 

 

Nick Moseley, NASS #278,

76-81 Spits, GT 6,  Metro Vancouver B.C.

From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Dec 25 15:20:50 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2008 15:20:50 -0700
Subject: [Spits] Rear spring GT6
In-Reply-To: <958476.9696.qm@web43145.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <958476.9696.qm@web43145.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1C442782D1D340B29CA08836BF1699D3@newcomputer>

Todd,
Your friend steered you wrong.  The springs are the same width (length).
The difference is that the later spring is a swing spring which causes the
rear suspension to be less refined and allows the rear to have more body
roll.  The thing that makes the camber different on a Mk3 GT6 is the longer
axles.  So unless he also replaced those, the car's camber will not be
appreciably changed.  

The thing I recommend is to go back to the original spring and add the
camber compensator to help prevent the wheel tuck that the swing spring was
intended to do.  The swing spring and the camber compensator are not
compatible.

Regards,
Joe Curry

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Todd Bermudez
Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2008 09:50
To: NASS Spitfire; Spitfire List
Subject: [Spits] Rear spring GT6

Hi all,

I've been in contact with the PO of our '67 GT6. 
Apparently he installed a MK3 GT6 spring in the rear. 
He said it was wider/longer so he had 1/4" spacers
made to install at the diff.  Apparently with the
longer spring you'd have really bad camber(I'm
guessing positive camber)?  I don't know if that's
correct or not?  Also, I don't believe there is a
bushing in the ends of the spring.  Does there have to
be?

Also, if it's true and the spring is wider/longer, can
I still use the camber compensator?  I don't know how
much longer it is?

Oh and on the front springs.  Who's a good source for
uprated springs? 

Cheers,

Todd Bermudez # 597
Cincinnati, OH
'68 GT6 MK1 RHD
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

http://www.team.net/archive

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Dec 25 17:34:15 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2008 19:34:15 -0500
Subject: [Spits] Rear spring GT6
In-Reply-To: <1C442782D1D340B29CA08836BF1699D3@newcomputer>
References: <958476.9696.qm@web43145.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4953E037.27131.990B9E6@localhost>

On 25 Dec 2008 at 15:20, Joe Curry wrote:

> Your friend steered you wrong.  The springs are the same
> width (length).

I was hoping somebody more knowledgeable than I would jump in.  If it 
was about Spitfire springs I would have answered directly.

My uncertainty, which Joe "Fluif" Curry wouldn't necessarily share, 
is that they would have calibrated the GT6 springs differently from 
the Spitfire because of the greater weight.  They *might* have made a 
longer spring for the late GT6 to match the longer axle but length by 
itself is not enough information.  If it was longer without being 
stiffer it would be effectively softer, and a spacer between diff and 
spring would be the wrong thing to do because the car would sit even 
lower.  If they the spring stiffer they could have made it longer, 
but longer or not, they would have had a goal to match the weight for 
a given axle length.  So if they combined stiffness and length to 
match the longer '73 axle and you installed one on the shorter axles, 
it would indeed be too stiff, making the car ride higher.

The Spitbits website lists a different part number for early 
Spitfires, swing-spring Spitfires, Mk2 and early Mk3 GT6, and Mk1 and 
later Mk3 GT6.  Certainly the GT6 spring is not the same as the 
Spitfire's for any suspension setup.  But the curious thing is that 
they listed only one spring as Mk1 and Mk3 after KF20001.  Can't tell 
from the picture whether it is the swing-spring or not.  However this 
suggests that either they don't offer have both early and very late 
GT6 springs or Triumph reverted to the non-swing spring in '73.  I 
suspect the former.

> The difference is that the later spring is a swing spring which
> ... allows the rear to have more body roll.

I'm not sure what Triumph did for the GT6 but for the Spitfire the 
swing-spring also came with a stiffer swaybar.  Todd, you need to 
consider whether the PO swapped that too.  Or just update the rear to 
your preference then choose a swaybar based on how it corners.


Todd also asked:
> I don't believe there is a bushing in the ends of the spring.
> Does there have to be?

There should be something (they are only $5 from Spitbits).  It is 
not a super tight fit.  It is more critical on the Mk2 because the 
spring acts as the upper control arm.  On the swing-axle versions it 
doesn't but you should still have something to spread out the stress.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From red_tr250 at yahoo.com  Thu Dec 25 18:14:51 2008
From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2008 17:14:51 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Spits] Rear spring GT6
In-Reply-To: <1C442782D1D340B29CA08836BF1699D3@newcomputer>
Message-ID: <80763.7088.qm@web43135.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Hi Joe,

Thanks for that helpful bit of info!  I do like the
idea of the camber compensator & plan on using it when
I get everything back together.  The reason for this
exercise is blowing up the diff a while back so I'm
gonna steal the diff out of our 67.  That's why I
noticed the spring...still had the sticker on
it...figured it was new.  Then I noticed the spacers. 
OK, so it's probably a swing spring for a '73 GT6.  I
don't mind goin' back to the current spring, but my
issue is the serious negative camber on the driver
side(right hand drive).  I suspected it was due to a
worn out spring?  Are there uprated rear springs for a
MK1?  I want to make this car handle much better than
it does now.  New front springs & urethane bushings as
well as stealing all 4 konis off the '67.  Oh and
apparently there's a spacer on the driver side on the
front spring...to compensate for the driver?  Is this
true?

Cheers,

Todd Bermudez #597
Cincinnati, OH
'68 GT6 RHD


--- Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net> wrote:

> Todd,
> Your friend steered you wrong.  The springs are the
> same width (length).
> The difference is that the later spring is a swing
> spring which causes the
> rear suspension to be less refined and allows the
> rear to have more body
> roll.  The thing that makes the camber different on
> a Mk3 GT6 is the longer
> axles.  So unless he also replaced those, the car's
> camber will not be
> appreciably changed.  
> 
> The thing I recommend is to go back to the original
> spring and add the
> camber compensator to help prevent the wheel tuck
> that the swing spring was
> intended to do.  The swing spring and the camber
> compensator are not
> compatible.
> 
> Regards,
> Joe Curry
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
> Of Todd Bermudez
> Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2008 09:50
> To: NASS Spitfire; Spitfire List
> Subject: [Spits] Rear spring GT6
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I've been in contact with the PO of our '67 GT6. 
> Apparently he installed a MK3 GT6 spring in the
> rear. 
> He said it was wider/longer so he had 1/4" spacers
> made to install at the diff.  Apparently with the
> longer spring you'd have really bad camber(I'm
> guessing positive camber)?  I don't know if that's
> correct or not?  Also, I don't believe there is a
> bushing in the ends of the spring.  Does there have
> to
> be?
> 
> Also, if it's true and the spring is wider/longer,
> can
> I still use the camber compensator?  I don't know
> how
> much longer it is?
> 
> Oh and on the front springs.  Who's a good source
> for
> uprated springs? 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Todd Bermudez # 597
> Cincinnati, OH
> '68 GT6 MK1 RHD
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ZoboHerald at aol.com  Thu Dec 25 20:29:52 2008
From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2008 22:29:52 EST
Subject: [Spits] Rear spring GT6
Message-ID: <bcd.42f111dd.3685a9b0@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/25/2008 7:34:41 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
jimmuller at rcn.com writes:

The  Spitbits website lists a different part number for early 
Spitfires,  swing-spring Spitfires, Mk2 and early Mk3 GT6, and Mk1 and 
later Mk3  GT6.  Certainly the GT6 spring is not the same as the 
Spitfire's for  any suspension setup.  But the curious thing is that 
they listed only  one spring as Mk1 and Mk3 after KF20001.  Can't tell 
from the picture  whether it is the swing-spring or not.  However this 
suggests that  either they don't offer have both early and very late 
GT6 springs or  Triumph reverted to the non-swing spring in '73.  I 
suspect the  former.
 
==AM==
Seems odd. Yes, the late (1973 model year) GT6 Mk3 did use the swing spring  
along with the longer swing axles, as did Spitfires of that vintage. But the  
"original" GT6 used the old-style spring...leading to some occasionally  
startling handling characteristics that, in turn, prompted the development of  the 
Roto-flex suspension of the MkII/+ and early Mk3 models. I suppose it's  
possible that no one still makes a replacement spring for the "Mk1" GT6, but I  
don't know (and haven't researched it).
 
--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph 
Herald engine with wings.
--  Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 /  Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph 
Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) 

Check out the North  American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald 
Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) 
**************One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, 
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From ZoboHerald at aol.com  Thu Dec 25 20:35:31 2008
From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2008 22:35:31 EST
Subject: [Spits] Rear spring GT6
Message-ID: <d61.3e37844f.3685ab03@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/25/2008 8:15:08 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
red_tr250 at yahoo.com writes:

...don't  mind goin' back to the current spring, but my
issue is the serious negative  camber on the driver
side(right hand drive).  I suspected it was due  to a
worn out spring? ....Oh and
apparently there's a spacer on the  driver side on the
front spring...to compensate for the driver?  Is  this
true?
 
==AM==
There should not be a spacer on the driver's side front spring on a  
right-hand drive car. It appeared on left-hand drive cars because of the  presumed 
weight of a driver PLUS the weight of the gas in the tank, which also  is on the 
left side of the car (regardless of driver position). On the other  hand, 
someone might have put in that spacer a long time ago, to try to  compensate for 
this excessive right-side REAR camber problem you mention...in  which case 
something weird definitely is going on. Of course, it might just be  that whatever 
spring currently is in the back of the car is a worn-out  Spitfire-spec.swing 
spring? Otherwise, I don't recall ever seeing a fixed-spring  GT6 of any rear 
suspension configuration develop serious neg. camber on either  side short of 
a broken spring or other damaged or twisted bits!  

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph 
Herald engine with wings.
--  Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 /  Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph 
Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) 

Check out the North  American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald 
Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) 

**************One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, 
Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000025)

From red_tr250 at yahoo.com  Fri Dec 26 08:32:43 2008
From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2008 07:32:43 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Spits] GT6 Radiator Caps
Message-ID: <799781.43045.qm@web43138.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Aside from spring issues, I noticed that the PO
installed a 7 lb radiator cap which would be stock on
a GT6 mk1 application.  However the engine is a MK2
engine and I think it has domed pistons...it goes
really well!  I noted that the parts books all call
for a 13 lb cap.  Would this help cool the system
better?  I ran hot all summer long so of course I ran
the heater!  Thank goodness for those CLOTH Miata
seats!  Oh, we picked up a radiator shroud from
Spitbits.  I'm hoping that will help.  I haven't
installed that yet.  Nigel told me it installs on the
engine shields.  Unfortunately, I don't have those. 
Anyone have extras?  I'm quite certain, I can
fabricate something if I had something to work from.

Cheers,

Todd Bermudez # 597
Cincinnati, OH 
'68 GT6 MK1 RHD

From krhodes1 at maine.rr.com  Fri Dec 26 10:25:00 2008
From: krhodes1 at maine.rr.com (Kevin Rhodes)
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2008 12:25:00 -0500
Subject: [Spits] GT6 Radiator Caps
In-Reply-To: <799781.43045.qm@web43138.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <799781.43045.qm@web43138.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20081226172447.OKNY21938.hrndva-omta04.mail.rr.com@nas.maine.rr.com>

At 10:32 AM 12/26/2008, Todd Bermudez wrote:
>Aside from spring issues, I noticed that the PO
>installed a 7 lb radiator cap which would be stock on
>a GT6 mk1 application.  However the engine is a MK2
>engine and I think it has domed pistons...it goes
>really well!  I noted that the parts books all call
>for a 13 lb cap.  Would this help cool the system
>better?  I ran hot all summer long so of course I ran
>the heater!  Thank goodness for those CLOTH Miata
>seats!  Oh, we picked up a radiator shroud from
>Spitbits.  I'm hoping that will help.  I haven't
>installed that yet.  Nigel told me it installs on the
>engine shields.  Unfortunately, I don't have those.
>Anyone have extras?  I'm quite certain, I can
>fabricate something if I had something to work from.

Make sure you check the temp with a calibrated gauge before you get 
too excited. I have several gauges and senders, and found that I 
could make the gauge read anywhere from 1/4 to 3/4 depending on 
exactly which combination I used!

Kevin Rhodes
Westbrook, ME
Freddy the '74 Spitfire
Freddy's new older sister - '69 Saab Sonett #1243 - winter project 

From Jim.Holmgren at corp.aol.com  Fri Dec 26 12:06:31 2008
From: Jim.Holmgren at corp.aol.com (Jim Holmgren)
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2008 14:06:31 -0500
Subject: [Spits] GT6 Radiator Caps
In-Reply-To: <20081226172447.OKNY21938.hrndva-omta04.mail.rr.com@nas.maine.rr.com>
References: <799781.43045.qm@web43138.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<20081226172447.OKNY21938.hrndva-omta04.mail.rr.com@nas.maine.rr.com>
Message-ID: <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A6106DDD0FB6D@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com>

One of those fancy non-contact laser thermometers works great for checking
this.  I thought my Spit was running WAY hot this summer until a friend used
his laser thermometer and showed me that it was running perfectly in the temp
range.  Talk about a sense of relief!  It turns out my voltage regulator was
done in and had my temp gauge reading way off.

You can pick up a cheap one at Horrible Freight for about $40.  Nice to be
able to see the temp at the top and bottom of the radiator, at the thermostat
housing, at the header, etc. at a glance.  Plus...it's a lot of fun to play
with.  :)

Actually - they are on sale right now for $29.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96451


Jim

'68 Spitfire Mk3
'75 Spitfire 1500
'77 Spitfire 1500
NASS #302
York, PA
www.littlebluespitfire.com




>
Make sure you check the temp with a calibrated gauge before you get
too excited. I have several gauges and senders, and found that I
could make the gauge read anywhere from 1/4 to 3/4 depending on
exactly which combination I used!

Kevin Rhodes
Westbrook, ME
Freddy the '74 Spitfire
Freddy's new older sister - '69 Saab Sonett #1243 - winter project
_______________________________________________



The information transmitted in this email is intended only for the person(s)
or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or
privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use
of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or
entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you received this
email in error, please contact the sender and permanently delete the email
from any computer.

From red_tr250 at yahoo.com  Fri Dec 26 12:54:09 2008
From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2008 11:54:09 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Spits] GT6 Radiator Caps
In-Reply-To: <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A6106DDD0FB6D@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com>
Message-ID: <473613.17840.qm@web43132.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Hi Jim,

Yeah, I got one for my birthday back in September.  I
also suspected all the usual suspects(sender, gauge,
stabilizer).  I installed an electric fan which goes
on with the key AND a aftermarket gauge...the kind
with the capillary tube.  It went up to around 205 or
so.  Never boiled over, but when it was running hot
you could tell at idle...it would start to stumble a
bit.  I'm hoping the radiator shroud will help.  I
guess if all else fails, I'll buy one of those fancy
Aluminium radiators for 400(i think) bucks.  

Oh, to keep with the correct gauges, I bought a dual
smiths guage...it's nice to know what kind of oil
pressure you're running too!  Oh and I added a yellow
plastic fan instead of the metal mk1 fan.  So I have a
puller and a pusher and I still can't keep it cool  I
put flush in the block & then the diff broke so I had
to drain all of it before I managed to freeze up as it
is winter.

As a side note, I figured I'd use the heat sensor from
harbor freight to figure out if the mixture was
somewhat balanced between front & back of the
head....for those of you with 2 carbs.

Cheers,

Todd Bermudez # 597
Cincinnati, OH
'68 GT6 MK1


--- Jim Holmgren <Jim.Holmgren at corp.aol.com> wrote:

> One of those fancy non-contact laser thermometers
> works great for checking this.  I thought my Spit
> was running WAY hot this summer until a friend used
> his laser thermometer and showed me that it was
> running perfectly in the temp range.  Talk about a
> sense of relief!  It turns out my voltage regulator
> was done in and had my temp gauge reading way off.
> 
> You can pick up a cheap one at Horrible Freight for
> about $40.  Nice to be able to see the temp at the
> top and bottom of the radiator, at the thermostat
> housing, at the header, etc. at a glance. 
> Plus...it's a lot of fun to play with.  :)
> 
> Actually - they are on sale right now for $29.99
>
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96451
> 
> 
> Jim
> 
> '68 Spitfire Mk3
> '75 Spitfire 1500
> '77 Spitfire 1500
> NASS #302
> York, PA
> www.littlebluespitfire.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> >
> Make sure you check the temp with a calibrated gauge
> before you get
> too excited. I have several gauges and senders, and
> found that I
> could make the gauge read anywhere from 1/4 to 3/4
> depending on
> exactly which combination I used!
> 
> Kevin Rhodes
> Westbrook, ME
> Freddy the '74 Spitfire
> Freddy's new older sister - '69 Saab Sonett #1243 -
> winter project
> _______________________________________________
> 
> 
> 
> The information transmitted in this email is
> intended only for the person(s) or entity to which
> it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or
> privileged material. Any review, retransmission,
> dissemination or other use of, or taking of any
> action in reliance upon, this information by persons
> or entities other than the intended recipient is
> prohibited. If you received this email in error,
> please contact the sender and permanently delete the
> email from any computer.

From fishplate at charter.net  Fri Dec 26 13:05:53 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2008 15:05:53 -0500
Subject: [Spits] GT6 Radiator Caps
In-Reply-To: <473613.17840.qm@web43132.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A6106DDD0FB6D@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com>
	<473613.17840.qm@web43132.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20081226200523.IJT128.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>

At 02:54 PM 12/26/2008, you wrote:
>I installed an electric fan which goes
>on with the key AND a aftermarket gauge...the kind
>with the capillary tube.  It went up to around 205 or
>so.  Never boiled over, but when it was running hot
>you could tell at idle...it would start to stumble a
>bit.  I'm hoping the radiator shroud will help.  I
>guess if all else fails, I'll buy one of those fancy
>Aluminium radiators for 400(i think) bucks.

There are plenty of these cars that don't overheat with fully stock 
cooling systems, including mine.   And it gets just as hot in Georgia 
as it does in Ohio.  You can certainly buy a $400 radiator, but what 
if that doesn't solve the problem?

Overheating is caused by insufficient heat exchange, often caused by 
poor circulation or crusty water passages.  Before you throw fixes at 
the system, why not establish the cause of your problem?

(If you are operating an uprated engine, then ignore what I said above)


Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Corrosion Acres, Georgia         #354 

From red_tr250 at yahoo.com  Fri Dec 26 13:17:45 2008
From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2008 12:17:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Spits] GT6 Radiator Caps
In-Reply-To: <20081226200523.IJT128.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>
Message-ID: <949769.30362.qm@web43143.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

That's the thing Jeff, I might be running a warmed up
engine?

Story is the engine was in a crate from Rimmer.  Domed
pistons, but I don't know what else?

I've drained the system many times till water was
clear and have plenty of hot water going thru the
heater core.  Hard for me to say if it's cooling
properly or not?  

Cheers,

Todd Bermudez # 597
Cincinnati, OH 
'68 GT6 Mk1 RHD

--- Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at charter.net> wrote:

> At 02:54 PM 12/26/2008, you wrote:
> >I installed an electric fan which goes
> >on with the key AND a aftermarket gauge...the kind
> >with the capillary tube.  It went up to around 205
> or
> >so.  Never boiled over, but when it was running hot
> >you could tell at idle...it would start to stumble
> a
> >bit.  I'm hoping the radiator shroud will help.  I
> >guess if all else fails, I'll buy one of those
> fancy
> >Aluminium radiators for 400(i think) bucks.
> 
> There are plenty of these cars that don't overheat
> with fully stock 
> cooling systems, including mine.   And it gets just
> as hot in Georgia 
> as it does in Ohio.  You can certainly buy a $400
> radiator, but what 
> if that doesn't solve the problem?
> 
> Overheating is caused by insufficient heat exchange,
> often caused by 
> poor circulation or crusty water passages.  Before
> you throw fixes at 
> the system, why not establish the cause of your
> problem?
> 
> (If you are operating an uprated engine, then ignore
> what I said above)
> 
> 
> Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78
> 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
> http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
> Corrosion Acres, Georgia         #354 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From spitfireracer at xsmail.com  Fri Dec 26 16:52:02 2008
From: spitfireracer at xsmail.com (Scott Cypher)
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2008 18:52:02 -0500
Subject: [Spits] GT6 Radiator Caps
In-Reply-To: <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A6106DDD0FB6D@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com>
References: <799781.43045.qm@web43138.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<20081226172447.OKNY21938.hrndva-omta04.mail.rr.com@nas.maine.rr.com>
	<5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A6106DDD0FB6D@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com>
Message-ID: <230086E7-2404-49BA-9772-70E65A270860@xsmail.com>

And if you go this weekend, get an extra 20% off!

Send me an email off list, and I'll send you a pdf of the email  
coupon they sent me...

Thanks

-Scott Cypher
spitfireracer at xsmail.com
SCCA #37 HP Spitfire 1500 #362573
Reading, PA
http://gallery.me.com/srcypher#gallery

1971 Spit MkIV/1500 RaceCar
1971 TR6 TBD
1976 TR7 Street
1968 GT6 Vintage

"I'm so excited I can barely sit still or hold a thought in my head.   
Its the excitement only a free man can feel.  A free man at the start  
of a long journey, whose conclusion is uncertain"

On Dec 26, 2008, at 2:06 PM, Jim Holmgren wrote:

One of those fancy non-contact laser thermometers works great for  
checking
this.  I thought my Spit was running WAY hot this summer until a  
friend used
his laser thermometer and showed me that it was running perfectly in  
the temp
range.  Talk about a sense of relief!  It turns out my voltage  
regulator was
done in and had my temp gauge reading way off.

You can pick up a cheap one at Horrible Freight for about $40.  Nice  
to be
able to see the temp at the top and bottom of the radiator, at the  
thermostat
housing, at the header, etc. at a glance.  Plus...it's a lot of fun  
to play
with.  :)

Actually - they are on sale right now for $29.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96451


Jim

'68 Spitfire Mk3
'75 Spitfire 1500
'77 Spitfire 1500
NASS #302
York, PA
www.littlebluespitfire.com




>
Make sure you check the temp with a calibrated gauge before you get
too excited. I have several gauges and senders, and found that I
could make the gauge read anywhere from 1/4 to 3/4 depending on
exactly which combination I used!

Kevin Rhodes
Westbrook, ME
Freddy the '74 Spitfire
Freddy's new older sister - '69 Saab Sonett #1243 - winter project
_______________________________________________



The information transmitted in this email is intended only for the  
person(s)
or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or
privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or  
other use
of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by  
persons or
entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you  
received this
email in error, please contact the sender and permanently delete the  
email
from any computer.
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

http://www.team.net/archive

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Sat Dec 27 10:08:55 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2008 12:08:55 EST
Subject: [Spits] GT6 Radiator Caps
Message-ID: <c81.4287505c.3687bb27@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/26/2008 3:05:44 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
fishplate at charter.net writes:

You can  certainly buy a $400 radiator, but what 
if that doesn't solve the  problem?




Hey Todd,
I bought one of those aluminum radiators for the 68/70 GT6  +.  The 
improvement was only marginal on the temperature  gauge.  The GT will run up to 3/4 and 
I get that stumble too  when I have been running in traffic and at 3/4 for a 
while. 7 lb radiator  cap.
Cheers,
Darrell

**************One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, 
Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000025)

From trbob at comcast.net  Sun Dec 28 19:31:25 2008
From: trbob at comcast.net (Bob Krivnko)
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2008 21:31:25 -0500
Subject: [Spits] GT6 Radiator Caps
In-Reply-To: <c81.4287505c.3687bb27@aol.com>
Message-ID: <28924EBB99D54CD8930F04ECFF4DE160@kriputer>

An oil cooler on my spit made a big difference in both temperature and oil
pressure.  Lowered the cooling and raised the oil pressure. Just my two
cents.  bob

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TR250Driver at aol.com
Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2008 12:09 PM
To: fishplate at charter.net; spitfires at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] GT6 Radiator Caps

In a message dated 12/26/2008 3:05:44 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
fishplate at charter.net writes:

You can  certainly buy a $400 radiator, but what 
if that doesn't solve the  problem?




Hey Todd,
I bought one of those aluminum radiators for the 68/70 GT6  +.  The 
improvement was only marginal on the temperature  gauge.  The GT will run up
to 3/4 and 
I get that stumble too  when I have been running in traffic and at 3/4 for a

while. 7 lb radiator  cap.
Cheers,
Darrell

**************One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, 
Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000
025)
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http://www.team.net/archive

From red_tr250 at yahoo.com  Tue Dec 30 07:35:22 2008
From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 06:35:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Spits] GT6 Radiator Caps
In-Reply-To: <28924EBB99D54CD8930F04ECFF4DE160@kriputer>
Message-ID: <119941.53702.qm@web43139.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Hi Bob,

IF the radiator shroud doesn't make a difference, I'm
springing for the oil cooler.  If this is a slightly
warmed up engine, I believe an cooler should make a
big difference!

Cheers,

Todd

--- Bob Krivnko <trbob at comcast.net> wrote:

> An oil cooler on my spit made a big difference in
> both temperature and oil
> pressure.  Lowered the cooling and raised the oil
> pressure. Just my two
> cents.  bob
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
> Of TR250Driver at aol.com
> Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2008 12:09 PM
> To: fishplate at charter.net; spitfires at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Spits] GT6 Radiator Caps
> 
> In a message dated 12/26/2008 3:05:44 P.M. Eastern
> Standard Time,  
> fishplate at charter.net writes:
> 
> You can  certainly buy a $400 radiator, but what 
> if that doesn't solve the  problem?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Todd,
> I bought one of those aluminum radiators for the
> 68/70 GT6  +.  The 
> improvement was only marginal on the temperature 
> gauge.  The GT will run up
> to 3/4 and 
> I get that stumble too  when I have been running in
> traffic and at 3/4 for a
> 
> while. 7 lb radiator  cap.
> Cheers,
> Darrell
> 
> **************One site keeps you connected to all
> your email: AOL Mail, 
> Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. 
>
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000
> 025)
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
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From TR250Driver at aol.com  Tue Dec 30 11:36:20 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 13:36:20 EST
Subject: [Spits] GT6 Radiator Caps
Message-ID: <c20.4c8cbcf3.368bc424@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/30/2008 10:33:44 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
doug at dougbraun.com writes:

Is this a stock engine? 

Hey Doug, 
In my case no, the motor in my hot running 68/70 GT6+   is not stock.  
Unfortunately, I am in the same boat as Todd for the PO  did all the work on it so, 
how much modification was done is not  known.  I believe he said it will "GO 
FAST".  
 
Now I have all the shrouds, made out of aluminum.  I  wondered about that.  
Is that a good idea?  Heat transfer?  I  have the Oil Cooler but it sets right 
in front of the aluminum radiator no  doubt blocking some air flow.  I have a 
Jet Hot Coated Header which is  supposed to transfer heat better but ask my 
wife what it is like to ride in  the passenger seat behind that sucker on a hot 
day?  Oh, bad for her but  really pretty good for me for she strips to nearly 
naked to cope with it!  ( :
 
The worst thing is the breaking up after a period of hot  running.  I thought 
it was the Crane ignition module going nuts but now I  think it may be the 
early Strommies heating up, expanding and sticking the  pistons????
 
Darrell


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Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. 
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From red_tr250 at yahoo.com  Tue Dec 30 12:27:03 2008
From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 11:27:03 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Spits] GT6 Radiator Caps
In-Reply-To: <c20.4c8cbcf3.368bc424@aol.com>
Message-ID: <561314.17233.qm@web43132.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Hey Darrell,

You have that ignition issue too huh...I'm running
points, but I think it's something in the gas tank. 
ON the way back from the TRials, it would start losing
power.  You'll pull over, let it sit for a minute or 5
& start it back up...you'd go for about 25-40 miles at
speed & same thing.  Changed out all sorts of things
on the way back.  I saw some stuff floating in the
tank, but had nothing to get to it with so I had the
car towed...AAA Plus is the only way to travel!

Oh and in a Right hand drive car, it's the driver that
gets hot

They say the side shields are supposed to help cool
the engine in addition to the shroud.  Might wanna try
mounting the cooler on the side of the radiator on end
rather than how you have it.  Andre did it that
way...guess the bonnet clears

Cheers,

Todd
--- TR250Driver at aol.com wrote:

> 
> 
>  
> In a message dated 12/30/2008 10:33:44 A.M. Eastern
> Standard Time,  
> doug at dougbraun.com writes:
> 
> Is this a stock engine? 
> 
> Hey Doug, 
> In my case no, the motor in my hot running 68/70
> GT6+   is not stock.  
> Unfortunately, I am in the same boat as Todd for the
> PO  did all the work on it so, 
> how much modification was done is not  known.  I
> believe he said it will "GO 
> FAST".  
>  
> Now I have all the shrouds, made out of aluminum.  I
>  wondered about that.  
> Is that a good idea?  Heat transfer?  I  have the
> Oil Cooler but it sets right 
> in front of the aluminum radiator no  doubt blocking
> some air flow.  I have a 
> Jet Hot Coated Header which is  supposed to transfer
> heat better but ask my 
> wife what it is like to ride in  the passenger seat
> behind that sucker on a hot 
> day?  Oh, bad for her but  really pretty good for me
> for she strips to nearly 
> naked to cope with it!  ( :
>  
> The worst thing is the breaking up after a period of
> hot  running.  I thought 
> it was the Crane ignition module going nuts but now
> I  think it may be the 
> early Strommies heating up, expanding and sticking
> the  pistons????
>  
> Darrell
> 
> 
> **************One site keeps you connected to all
> your email: AOL Mail, 
> Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. 
>
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000025)

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Tue Dec 30 12:43:09 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 14:43:09 -0500
Subject: [Spits] GT6 Radiator Caps
References: <561314.17233.qm@web43132.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <D5924C47F5F341118FACA2DDB4603D64@fred8kwiskhcfu>

On the subject of heat in the cockpit, check the firewall to insure "all" 
grommets are in place and the correct size, the biggest problem with 1500 is 
the engine/tranny cover, if you cover this with heat reduction material the 
temp inside will drop 20 degrees, the cover is a economy based material and 
rots easily, "Home-Depot" took care of this for me for less than $20.00, 
BTW, I purchased my car from a school teacher several years ago because of a 
heated compartment, only had about 6 hugh holes in the cover and several 
grommets missing, I bought it cheap back then, great car if this problem is 
corrected. "FT" 

From spitlist at cox.net  Tue Dec 30 15:02:01 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 15:02:01 -0700
Subject: [Spits] Check this out
Message-ID: <B42E27305CF240CCAC7654BDA56FD4BE@newcomputer>

http://www.gumball3000.com/news/detail/171

 

Joe

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Tue Dec 30 15:59:10 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 17:59:10 EST
Subject: [Spits] Check this out
Message-ID: <d0c.449f8250.368c01be@aol.com>

Very Cool Joe!
Can you name the year of that Spitfire? For Sure it must be Signal Red  Huh?  
Never knew that Giovanni did Ferraris!  I also have never heard  of a 
Missfire.  That must be a UK AKA.
Darrell
**************One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, 
Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000025)

From s1500 at comcast.net  Wed Dec 31 08:10:17 2008
From: s1500 at comcast.net (s1500 at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2008 15:10:17 +0000
Subject: [Spits] OT: Trabant
Message-ID: <123120081510.27408.495B8B5900097CF300006B102206999735CFCFCACE9C@comcast.net>

I went to Krakow, Poland at the beginning of December, and took the "Crazy tours" communism tour. I got to ride in a Trabant car. I must say, the Trabant makes my Spit looks like some sort of high-tech supercar. 2-cycle engine, goofy shifter layout & really rough running condition makes for a weird ride. Our tour guide/driver ran out of gas & switched gas tanks(with a switch)  as we were doing down a busy street. 

From krhodes1 at maine.rr.com  Wed Dec 31 08:20:50 2008
From: krhodes1 at maine.rr.com (Kevin Rhodes)
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2008 10:20:50 -0500
Subject: [Spits] OT: Trabant
In-Reply-To: <123120081510.27408.495B8B5900097CF300006B102206999735CFCFC
	ACE9C@comcast.net>
References: <123120081510.27408.495B8B5900097CF300006B102206999735CFCFCACE9C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20081231152046.UCWU28633.hrndva-omta01.mail.rr.com@nas.maine.rr.com>

I owned one for a summer in Budapest, summer of '91. I was spending 
the summer with a college friend from there, we bought it together 
for ~$1000, and sold it for the same at the end of the summer. 2 cyl, 
2-stroke, about 2 mouse-power. It would wind up to ~110km/hr 
eventually. The body is made of some sort of wood pulp and resin - 
you could easily kick a hole in it. A complete and utter deathtrap of 
a car, but we had a ball with it. Reliable too. Not much to break. 
:-) Wartburgs are far better, those had three cylinders and a METAL 
body! But more expensive.

Kevin Rhodes
Westbrook, Maine


At 10:10 AM 12/31/2008, you wrote:
>I went to Krakow, Poland at the beginning of December, and took the 
>"Crazy tours" communism tour. I got to ride in a Trabant car. I must 
>say, the Trabant makes my Spit looks like some sort of high-tech 
>supercar. 2-cycle engine, goofy shifter layout & really rough 
>running condition makes for a weird ride. Our tour guide/driver ran 
>out of gas & switched gas tanks(with a switch)  as we were doing 
>down a busy street.

From bill at gingerich.us  Wed Dec 31 08:36:48 2008
From: bill at gingerich.us (Bill Gingerich)
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2008 09:36:48 -0600
Subject: [Spits] OT: Trabant
In-Reply-To: <20081231152046.UCWU28633.hrndva-omta01.mail.rr.com@nas.maine.rr.com>
References: <123120081510.27408.495B8B5900097CF300006B102206999735CFCFCACE9C@comcast.net>
	<20081231152046.UCWU28633.hrndva-omta01.mail.rr.com@nas.maine.rr.com>
Message-ID: <E340F83982B04DAE9E27F85073B0B32A@shack2>

I have a friend in MN with a Citroen 2CV.  Also an interesting car.

BillG


-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kevin Rhodes
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2008 9:21 AM
To: Spitfire List
Subject: Re: [Spits] OT: Trabant

I owned one for a summer in Budapest, summer of '91. I was spending 
the summer with a college friend from there, we bought it together 
for ~$1000, and sold it for the same at the end of the summer. 2 cyl, 
2-stroke, about 2 mouse-power. It would wind up to ~110km/hr 
eventually. The body is made of some sort of wood pulp and resin - 
you could easily kick a hole in it. A complete and utter deathtrap of 
a car, but we had a ball with it. Reliable too. Not much to break. 
:-) Wartburgs are far better, those had three cylinders and a METAL 
body! But more expensive.

Kevin Rhodes
Westbrook, Maine


At 10:10 AM 12/31/2008, you wrote:
>I went to Krakow, Poland at the beginning of December, and took the 
>"Crazy tours" communism tour. I got to ride in a Trabant car. I must 
>say, the Trabant makes my Spit looks like some sort of high-tech 
>supercar. 2-cycle engine, goofy shifter layout & really rough 
>running condition makes for a weird ride. Our tour guide/driver ran 
>out of gas & switched gas tanks(with a switch)  as we were doing 
>down a busy street.
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