From tedtsimx at bright.net Fri Aug 1 14:45:40 2008 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2008 16:45:40 -0400 Subject: [Spits] VTR/NATC convention Message-ID: <489375F4.5030203@bright.net> List members, if you are attending this event, please stop by our display. We will be open Tuesday - Thursday in the hotel vendor area and Friday at the car show. Engine, suspension, brake goodies all on display along with our gear reduction starters. Tuesday afternoon I am presenting a tech session on testing, tools and performance. Wednesday morning Mike Cook and myself are doing a session on what it was like "in the day". This will be from a corporate viewpoint, dealer viewpoint and competition viewpoint. "Win on Sunday and hopefully sell on Monday!" If there is something you want me to bring, please call or email soon. If I can bring it along, you save shipping. See you there. Thanks for your time. Ted -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 From greg at miranoconsulting.com Fri Aug 1 16:17:51 2008 From: greg at miranoconsulting.com (Greg Tobin) Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2008 22:17:51 +0000 Subject: [Spits] 68/69 GT6 For sale Message-ID: Hi All- Ibve been on thelist now for almost 20 years.Geez, thisages me, but then, I was only 19 when I joinedb& ;)I started my Triumph ownership with a79 1500 that I bought when I was 16.I purchased a few others since then, andstill own a 72 MKIV, and the subject of this email, a 68 (or 69) GT6+. Ibve decided that I have had it too long (12 years), and Iwill not be able to ever build it up.Ihave moved it across the country and itbs now just taking up space in thegarage.Ibd rather not list it out on eBay,since the list has always been the place for me (in fact, I bought most of iton the listb&) So, what I would like to do is to not piece it out, it will go asa whole lot.Youbll obviously need aflatbed to get it all home, and I live in Oregon, nice and convenient foreveryoneb&.Will I miss it?Yes.Istill have my 72 MKIV, but Ibll miss having the 6 in the garage, and itbs timeto let it go.Besides, Ibm probably movingto China, and I canbt bring it with me... ;) Itbs a project car, but a good project car.A lot of the crappy work has already beendone- youbre working with a very decent base on this car.The parts youbll be buying are the partsyoubd buy anyways, all the replenishables, the brake lines, redobing thehydraulics, new seats, etc. I have a writeup of it at: http://redracecar.blogspot.com and the pics are at:http://flickr.com/photos/ultimatevanity/sets/72157605798719193/.Intaking the pics, the colour balance on the camera is off.What looks like rust on the body pics is notrust, itbs dust, with a 'd'.The flashpictures show the accurate silver colour.It really looks rattier in the pics than it is in reality, I was kind ofbummed with the pics. There is one pic that Joe Curry will like, though it's not on the car... ;) The price?1500$Make me an offer, It needs a new home. Questions, call or email me- Greg Tobin (Portland, OR) greg at miranoconsulting.com 503-848-7218 From mike.vasquez at gmail.com Sat Aug 2 10:56:46 2008 From: mike.vasquez at gmail.com (Mike Vasquez) Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 09:56:46 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Introduction to Lizzie, my 1965 Spitfire, newly acquired Message-ID: <28f529ba0808020956y6959eaadpe8f61ebe01ea84cf@mail.gmail.com> I've posted a few messages over the last few weeks, and wanted to thank everyone for their very helpful responses. My first spitfire (sadly, sitting in a pasture in Arkansas with no way for me to get it back here to Arizona) was a '75. It was in primer, but running, when I bought it in 1990 for $900. It was as reliable as lucas electronics allow, and after a bit of frustration, I took it all apart, cleaned it all up, painted it, and put it back together. Then, I went back to college, it got in the way at the parents, and now sits at my sisters farm. However, yesterday, I purchased a new spitfire. It's a 1965 (not a 62 like the owner originally thought). The owner was a gem though, and I enjoyed meeting her and her husband. They own a little shop in Flagstaff, Arizona. I only had 1 picture from her, but drove up yesterday morning, and took several more -- they'll be posted later. I sent a picture out to the list, but it's far from the whole story. The car is much more complete than the picture shows. She took out all the boxes so I got a good look for rust, etc. The rocker panels on each side have a lot of rust, and have rusted through, but the floor boards and everything else look great, and the body is otherwise very solid. The bumpers are there, as well as the grill, and headlight trim. The car does have the seat frames and the convertible top bow, interior handles, and some of the trim -- I haven't had time to go through all the boxes, but that's what I spotted so far. The engine looks very complete as well. We agreed on a price of $700. She'd had a previous offer last summer for $1500 from a fellow who wanted to strip her for parts, but she really wanted to see it on the road again. The goal is to have it running for my son when he turns 16 (5 years). Sooner is always better! It'll be a driver, as I believe these cars were meant to be driven -- nothing against the folks who like show cars (which I love to look at as well), but I want to enjoy 'em behind the wheel. So, as soon as I get time, I'll be posting pics, asking more questions, and getting her up and running. I'm not terribly experience, but looking forward to getting my hands wonderfully dirty. Willing to trade IT help for your mechanical knowledge! Would love to network with anyone in the Phoenix area as well. I'm in Gilbert. Looking forward to getting back in the community! Mike Vasquez "Sanchez" -- 1975 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Lizzie" -- 1965 Triumph Spitfire 4, Mk II (I think that's noted right!) From mike.vasquez at gmail.com Sat Aug 2 12:17:57 2008 From: mike.vasquez at gmail.com (Mike Vasquez) Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 11:17:57 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Early Spitfire VIN Decoding: Message-ID: <28f529ba0808021117x91b2c8du86fc2ea60b335dc8@mail.gmail.com> The title lists my spitfire was a 1965 2dcv -- FC24119L My research of just a few minutes via googling says this is actually an early car in the 1964 run? Looks like that was: FC22700-45753 My '75, I was able to figure out the original color. The car's in transit to me this week -- the FC# isn't enough to figure out original color though, right? From mike.vasquez at gmail.com Sat Aug 2 12:41:05 2008 From: mike.vasquez at gmail.com (Mike Vasquez) Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 11:41:05 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Early Spitfire VIN Decoding: In-Reply-To: References: <28f529ba0808021117x91b2c8du86fc2ea60b335dc8@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <28f529ba0808021141sb7de424x6ec29fe58867bc4e@mail.gmail.com> http://www.vehicleidentificationnumber.com/triumph_spitfire.html So it was mnfctrd in early '64 -- is the title correct that it's a '65 model year? Wondering what number I use for picking parts out, 64 or 65? Looks like it's a Spitfire 4, Mk I. Saw your name all over the place when I was looking for a paint code list -- you're famous! On Sat, Aug 2, 2008 at 11:30 AM, Joe Curry wrote: > Mike, > According to the BMIHT, The first car manufactured in 1964 was FC22683 and > Production of the Mk1 ended in December of 63 with the last one having > Commission number FC44656. > > So your car was manufactured very early in 1964. > > Where did you come up with the 44573 number? According to the BMIHT there > were on cars with Commission numbers between FC44657 and FC49999. > > Regards, > Joe > > -----Original Message----- > From: spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:spitfires-bounces+spitlist =cox.net@ > autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike > Vasquez > Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 11:18 AM > To: spitfires at autox.team.net > Subject: [Spits] Early Spitfire VIN Decoding: > > The title lists my spitfire was a 1965 2dcv -- FC24119L > > My research of just a few minutes via googling says this is actually an > early car in the 1964 run? Looks like that was: > > FC22700-45753 > My '75, I was able to figure out the original color. The car's in transit > to me this week -- the FC# isn't enough to figure out original color > though, > right? > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Spitfires at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires > > http://www.team.net/archive From nmoseley at dccnet.com Sat Aug 2 12:41:36 2008 From: nmoseley at dccnet.com (Nick Moseley) Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 11:41:36 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Early Spitfire VIN Decoding: In-Reply-To: <28f529ba0808021117x91b2c8du86fc2ea60b335dc8@mail.gmail.com> References: <28f529ba0808021117x91b2c8du86fc2ea60b335dc8@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <001101c8f4cf$655fe490$6400a8c0@yourb27fb1c401> Congratulations Mike! Welcome back to the wonderful world of Spit ownership. By all means, check your cars' info (and enter your cars' info) at, Joe Curry's International Spitfire Database. That S/N would fit into the 1964 run. Colour and trim codes should appear in separate spots on the data plate, along with the year and month of manufacture. Nick Moseley From spitlist at cox.net Sat Aug 2 12:30:18 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 11:30:18 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Early Spitfire VIN Decoding: In-Reply-To: <28f529ba0808021117x91b2c8du86fc2ea60b335dc8@mail.gmail.com> References: <28f529ba0808021117x91b2c8du86fc2ea60b335dc8@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Mike, According to the BMIHT, The first car manufactured in 1964 was FC22683 and Production of the Mk1 ended in December of 63 with the last one having Commission number FC44656. So your car was manufactured very early in 1964. Where did you come up with the 44573 number? According to the BMIHT there were on cars with Commission numbers between FC44657 and FC49999. Regards, Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Vasquez Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 11:18 AM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Early Spitfire VIN Decoding: The title lists my spitfire was a 1965 2dcv -- FC24119L My research of just a few minutes via googling says this is actually an early car in the 1964 run? Looks like that was: FC22700-45753 My '75, I was able to figure out the original color. The car's in transit to me this week -- the FC# isn't enough to figure out original color though, right? Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From douglashansen at yahoo.com Sat Aug 2 13:16:53 2008 From: douglashansen at yahoo.com (Spitfire4) Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 12:16:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] Early Spitfire VIN Decoding: Message-ID: <28591.60880.qm@web52202.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Joe Dont you mean the mk1 ended in Dec of 64 not of 63. My BMIHTC shows my mk1 of 36k was built on July 1964 Douglas A. Hansen www.1147cc.com ----- Original Message ---- From: Joe Curry To: Mike Vasquez ; spitfires at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, August 2, 2008 2:30:18 PM Subject: Re: [Spits] Early Spitfire VIN Decoding: Mike, According to the BMIHT, The first car manufactured in 1964 was FC22683 and Production of the Mk1 ended in December of 63 with the last one having Commission number FC44656. So your car was manufactured very early in 1964. Where did you come up with the 44573 number? According to the BMIHT there were on cars with Commission numbers between FC44657 and FC49999. Regards, Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Vasquez Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 11:18 AM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Early Spitfire VIN Decoding: The title lists my spitfire was a 1965 2dcv -- FC24119L My research of just a few minutes via googling says this is actually an early car in the 1964 run? Looks like that was: FC22700-45753 My '75, I was able to figure out the original color. The car's in transit to me this week -- the FC# isn't enough to figure out original color though, right? Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From spitlist at cox.net Sat Aug 2 13:17:58 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 12:17:58 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Early Spitfire VIN Decoding: In-Reply-To: <001101c8f4cf$655fe490$6400a8c0@yourb27fb1c401> References: <28f529ba0808021117x91b2c8du86fc2ea60b335dc8@mail.gmail.com> <001101c8f4cf$655fe490$6400a8c0@yourb27fb1c401> Message-ID: Nick, Unfortunately the color codes and other extra information was not present on that year's commission plates. So it is impossible to know what color it was unless there is some unmolested paint still remaining or one buys a BMIHT Build Certificate. Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Nick Moseley Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 11:42 AM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] Early Spitfire VIN Decoding: Congratulations Mike! Welcome back to the wonderful world of Spit ownership. By all means, check your cars' info (and enter your cars' info) at, Joe Curry's International Spitfire Database. That S/N would fit into the 1964 run. Colour and trim codes should appear in separate spots on the data plate, along with the year and month of manufacture. Nick Moseley Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From douglashansen at yahoo.com Sat Aug 2 13:34:46 2008 From: douglashansen at yahoo.com (Spitfire4) Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 12:34:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] Early Spitfire VIN Decoding: Message-ID: <62984.65173.qm@web52207.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I find that the best place to see the org paint and color is under the thick sound damping material on the back seat area. and vin plates didnt show the dates until the mk3s. mk2s did show paint and trim codes. Im always looking to find at what comm # the heater drain changed and when the rear top edge fender chrome trim changed from long to short. and to think about it... when the heater box changed to fit the speedo and tech cables thru it... Douglas A. Hansen www.1147cc.com ----- Original Message ---- From: Joe Curry To: Nick Moseley ; spitfires at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, August 2, 2008 3:17:58 PM Subject: Re: [Spits] Early Spitfire VIN Decoding: Nick, Unfortunately the color codes and other extra information was not present on that year's commission plates. So it is impossible to know what color it was unless there is some unmolested paint still remaining or one buys a BMIHT Build Certificate. Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Nick Moseley Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 11:42 AM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] Early Spitfire VIN Decoding: Congratulations Mike! Welcome back to the wonderful world of Spit ownership. By all means, check your cars' info (and enter your cars' info) at, Joe Curry's International Spitfire Database. That S/N would fit into the 1964 run. Colour and trim codes should appear in separate spots on the data plate, along with the year and month of manufacture. Nick Moseley Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From spitlist at cox.net Sat Aug 2 14:21:45 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 13:21:45 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Early Spitfire VIN Decoding: In-Reply-To: <28591.60880.qm@web52202.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <28591.60880.qm@web52202.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4ACD87168F40475693062293C6823DC3@newcomputer> Nice Catch Doug. That of course was a typo. It is impossible for the first car in 64 to be FC22683 when production ended in Dec. of 1963. Joe _____ From: Spitfire4 [mailto:douglashansen at yahoo.com] Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 12:17 PM To: Joe Curry; Mike Vasquez; spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] Early Spitfire VIN Decoding: Joe Dont you mean the mk1 ended in Dec of 64 not of 63. My BMIHTC shows my mk1 of 36k was built on July 1964 Douglas A. Hansen www.1147cc.com ----- Original Message ---- From: Joe Curry To: Mike Vasquez ; spitfires at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, August 2, 2008 2:30:18 PM Subject: Re: [Spits] Early Spitfire VIN Decoding: Mike, According to the BMIHT, The first car manufactured in 1964 was FC22683 and Production of the Mk1 ended in December of 63 with the last one having Commission number FC44656. So your car was manufactured very early in 1964. Where did you come up with the 44573 number? According to the BMIHT there were on cars with Commission numbers between FC44657 and FC49999. Regards, Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Vasquez Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 11:18 AM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Early Spitfire VIN Decoding: The title lists my spitfire was a 1965 2dcv -- FC24119L My research of just a few minutes via googling says this is actually an early car in the 1964 run? Looks like that was: FC22700-45753 My '75, I was able to figure out the original color. The car's in transit to me this week -- the FC# isn't enough to figure out original color though, right? Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From spitlist at cox.net Sat Aug 2 15:30:13 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 14:30:13 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Early Spitfire VIN Decoding: In-Reply-To: <28f529ba0808021141sb7de424x6ec29fe58867bc4e@mail.gmail.com> References: <28f529ba0808021117x91b2c8du86fc2ea60b335dc8@mail.gmail.com> <28f529ba0808021141sb7de424x6ec29fe58867bc4e@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Mike, This exchange has started me thinking (which can be considered dangerous). The number of Mk1 Spitfires that were built (45753) is out of proportion to the total of the commission numbers. Since the last commission number is FC44656, where did the other 97 cars go? Thinking about this disparity in the numbers, I can only say that I know for a fact that the factory race cars did not get included in the commission number series that were recorded but there were not 97 of them. Add to that the race cars that were imported into the US as "body in white" assemblies to avoid taxes and a few other custom built racers (Like the Macao Spitfire) and I suppose that makes up for the rest of the total. Cheers, Joe _____ From: Mike Vasquez [mailto:mike.vasquez at gmail.com] Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 11:41 AM To: Joe Curry Cc: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] Early Spitfire VIN Decoding: http://www.vehicleidentificationnumber.com/triumph_spitfire.html So it was mnfctrd in early '64 -- is the title correct that it's a '65 model year? Wondering what number I use for picking parts out, 64 or 65? Looks like it's a Spitfire 4, Mk I. Saw your name all over the place when I was looking for a paint code list -- you're famous! On Sat, Aug 2, 2008 at 11:30 AM, Joe Curry wrote: Mike, According to the BMIHT, The first car manufactured in 1964 was FC22683 and Production of the Mk1 ended in December of 63 with the last one having Commission number FC44656. So your car was manufactured very early in 1964. Where did you come up with the 44573 number? According to the BMIHT there were on cars with Commission numbers between FC44657 and FC49999. Regards, Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces+spitlist =cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Vasquez Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 11:18 AM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Early Spitfire VIN Decoding: The title lists my spitfire was a 1965 2dcv -- FC24119L My research of just a few minutes via googling says this is actually an early car in the 1964 run? Looks like that was: FC22700-45753 My '75, I was able to figure out the original color. The car's in transit to me this week -- the FC# isn't enough to figure out original color though, right? Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From jhmdds at aol.com Sat Aug 2 16:56:09 2008 From: jhmdds at aol.com (jhmdds at aol.com) Date: Sat, 02 Aug 2008 18:56:09 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Dimmer switch location Message-ID: <8CAC30A16762E52-84C-10D3@WEBMAIL-DG02.sim.aol.com> During the restoration of my '66 Spitfire, I covered the entire floor and inside firewall with sound dampening material.? Now I can't tell where the dimmer switch mounts.?? Could someone? please email me a picture so I can? properly locate it? Thanks, James From nmoseley at dccnet.com Sat Aug 2 17:43:16 2008 From: nmoseley at dccnet.com (Nick Moseley) Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 16:43:16 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Early Spitfire VIN Decoding: In-Reply-To: References: <28f529ba0808021117x91b2c8du86fc2ea60b335dc8@mail.gmail.com> <001101c8f4cf$655fe490$6400a8c0@yourb27fb1c401> Message-ID: <001801c8f4f9$89a81ff0$6400a8c0@yourb27fb1c401> I defer to Joe's considerably greater knowledge, especially as square-tails are my particular addiction. Nick M -----Original Message----- From: Joe Curry [mailto:spitlist at cox.net] Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 12:18 PM To: 'Nick Moseley'; spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Spits] Early Spitfire VIN Decoding: Nick, Unfortunately the color codes and other extra information was not present on that year's commission plates. So it is impossible to know what color it was unless there is some unmolested paint still remaining or one buys a BMIHT Build Certificate. Joe From doug at dougbraun.com Sun Aug 3 18:17:27 2008 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 17:17:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] [Shop-talk] dust in engine? In-Reply-To: <000801c8f594$4b62cbf0$add07d80@B50SS> Message-ID: <359904.65123.qm@web602.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I think you are worrying too much! Doug Braun '72 Spit --- old dirtbeard wrote: > > Before I could reinstall it, we bought new house, > moved, had to set-up the new > garage, etc., and now am ready to drop it in. It has > been sitting inside a > clean garage in SoCal covered with a tarp, but I > realized that I had not > plugged the spark plug holes. From BrianSmith1 at templeinland.com Mon Aug 4 12:02:24 2008 From: BrianSmith1 at templeinland.com (Smith, Brian (CP)) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 13:02:24 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Size of Crank Pully retaining nut. Message-ID: <0BE807693DADFC41BA5106B845AE05E247214C@p0387psw0200.myInland.com> Listers, The subject says it all. Going to be near a proper tool store today and would like to buy the correct size first. Thanks, Brian Smith Bogalusa, LA ********** Confidentiality Notice ********** This electronic transmission and any attached documents or other writings are confidential and are for the sole use of the intended recipient(s) identified above. This message may contain information that is privileged, confidential or otherwise protected from disclosure under applicable law. If the receiver of this information is not the intended recipient, or the employee, or agent responsible for delivering the information to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, reading, dissemination, distribution, copying or storage of this information is strictly prohibited. If you have received this information in error, please notify the sender by return email and delete the electronic transmission, including all attachments from your system. From doug at dougbraun.com Mon Aug 4 13:07:15 2008 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 12:07:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] Size of Crank Pully retaining nut. In-Reply-To: <0BE807693DADFC41BA5106B845AE05E247214C@p0387psw0200.myInland.com> Message-ID: <338527.98311.qm@web605.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I just measured the one on my '72: It is 1-13/16". A single socket that large will not be cheap! I have a monster 18" adjustable wrench, made in China of course, that I got a couple of years ago at a swap meet for $15 or so. It works fine for this application. Do you know hte trick of resting the other end of the wrench on the frame rail, and hitting the starter to break the nut loose? Doug Braun '72 Spit --- "Smith, Brian (CP)" wrote: > Listers, > > > > The subject says it all. Going to be near a proper > tool store today and > would like to buy the correct size first. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Brian Smith > > Bogalusa, LA > > ********** Confidentiality Notice ********** > This electronic transmission and any attached > documents or other writings > are confidential and are for the sole use of the > intended recipient(s) > identified above. This message may contain > information that is privileged, > confidential or otherwise protected from disclosure > under applicable law. > If the receiver of this information is not the > intended recipient, or the > employee, or agent responsible for delivering the > information to the > intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any > use, reading, > dissemination, distribution, copying or storage of > this information is > strictly prohibited. If you have received this > information in error, please > notify the sender by return email and delete the > electronic transmission, > including all attachments from your system. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Spitfires at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires > > http://www.team.net/archive From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Aug 4 13:33:10 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2008 15:33:10 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Size of Crank Pully retaining nut. In-Reply-To: <338527.98311.qm@web605.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <0BE807693DADFC41BA5106B845AE05E247214C@p0387psw0200.myInland.com> Message-ID: <48972136.5952.93B6144@localhost> On 4 Aug 2008 at 12:07, Doug Braun wrote: > It is 1-13/16". Anyone within driving distance (Waltham, MA) is welcome to borrow mine. However > Bogalusa, LA is probably further than > Brian Smith would be willing to drive. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From parrotthead01 at comcast.net Mon Aug 4 15:37:40 2008 From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net (Daniel Parrott) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 17:37:40 -0400 Subject: [Spits] GT-6 MK3 in Georgia Message-ID: <003301c8f67a$52f72230$f8e56690$@net> I have an opportunity (?) to purchase a 1972 GT-6 MK3 cheap. It's been a while, but do they require leaded gas to run? If so, how do the listers cope with that requirement? From bill at gingerich.us Mon Aug 4 15:45:59 2008 From: bill at gingerich.us (Bill Gingerich) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 16:45:59 -0500 Subject: [Spits] GT-6 MK3 in Georgia In-Reply-To: <003301c8f67a$52f72230$f8e56690$@net> References: <003301c8f67a$52f72230$f8e56690$@net> Message-ID: Dan, As I recall, they were designed for leaded fuel. What my son did with his '72 GT6 was to use a lead substitute that he bought at his local auto parts store. When you're ready to pull the head, you can have the valve seats and valves redone for unleaded fuel. I did that with my '74 Spitfire. Not a problem. BillG Newalla, OK '74 Spitfire -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces+bill=gingerich.us at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces+bill=gingerich.us at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Daniel Parrott Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 4:38 PM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] GT-6 MK3 in Georgia I have an opportunity (?) to purchase a 1972 GT-6 MK3 cheap. It's been a while, but do they require leaded gas to run? If so, how do the listers cope with that requirement? From parrotthead01 at comcast.net Mon Aug 4 15:50:37 2008 From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net (Daniel Parrott) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 17:50:37 -0400 Subject: [Spits] GT-6 MK3 in Georgia In-Reply-To: References: <003301c8f67a$52f72230$f8e56690$@net> Message-ID: <004001c8f67c$21a7ecd0$64f7c670$@net> I'll probably invest in an engine rebuild sometime in the near future. Is there any way that I can tell if the valve seat hardening has already been done? -----Original Message----- From: Bill Gingerich [mailto:bill at gingerich.us] Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 5:46 PM To: 'Daniel Parrott'; spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Spits] GT-6 MK3 in Georgia Dan, As I recall, they were designed for leaded fuel. What my son did with his '72 GT6 was to use a lead substitute that he bought at his local auto parts store. When you're ready to pull the head, you can have the valve seats and valves redone for unleaded fuel. I did that with my '74 Spitfire. Not a problem. BillG Newalla, OK '74 Spitfire -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces+bill=gingerich.us at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces+bill=gingerich.us at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Daniel Parrott Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 4:38 PM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] GT-6 MK3 in Georgia I have an opportunity (?) to purchase a 1972 GT-6 MK3 cheap. It's been a while, but do they require leaded gas to run? If so, how do the listers cope with that requirement? From spitlist at cox.net Mon Aug 4 15:59:24 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 14:59:24 -0700 Subject: [Spits] GT-6 MK3 in Georgia References: <003301c8f67a$52f72230$f8e56690$@net> Message-ID: <003901c8f67d$5bbe4440$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Dan, I would not worry about the leaded fuel issue. just burn a gasoline that has enough octane to keep the car from pinging. If you put 60 or 70 thousand miles a year on thecar it might be an issue but with the moderate amount of driving most Triumphs get, you probably won't see any valve recession for the forseeable future. And in the evet you have an isue, then you can upgrade to hardened valves and seats. Cheers, Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Daniel Parrott" To: Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 2:37 PM Subject: [Spits] GT-6 MK3 in Georgia > I have an opportunity (?) to purchase a 1972 GT-6 MK3 cheap. It's been a > while, but do they require leaded gas to run? If so, how do the listers > cope with that requirement? > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Spitfires at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires > > http://www.team.net/archive From bill at gingerich.us Mon Aug 4 16:01:24 2008 From: bill at gingerich.us (Bill Gingerich) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 17:01:24 -0500 Subject: [Spits] GT-6 MK3 in Georgia In-Reply-To: <004001c8f67c$21a7ecd0$64f7c670$@net> References: <003301c8f67a$52f72230$f8e56690$@net> <004001c8f67c$21a7ecd0$64f7c670$@net> Message-ID: <8236534B32A0435AA6F6E535C39B65BD@shack2> Frankly, I don't know for sure. I think the no lead exhaust valves are stainless. You might try pulling the valve cover and seeing if the exhaust valves are magnetic. If they are, they're probably steel, and therefore designed for leaded fuel. What kind of shape is the rest of the car in? Bill -----Original Message----- From: Daniel Parrott [mailto:parrotthead01 at comcast.net] Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 4:51 PM To: 'Bill Gingerich'; spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Spits] GT-6 MK3 in Georgia I'll probably invest in an engine rebuild sometime in the near future. Is there any way that I can tell if the valve seat hardening has already been done? -----Original Message----- From: Bill Gingerich [mailto:bill at gingerich.us] Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 5:46 PM To: 'Daniel Parrott'; spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Spits] GT-6 MK3 in Georgia Dan, As I recall, they were designed for leaded fuel. What my son did with his '72 GT6 was to use a lead substitute that he bought at his local auto parts store. When you're ready to pull the head, you can have the valve seats and valves redone for unleaded fuel. I did that with my '74 Spitfire. Not a problem. BillG Newalla, OK '74 Spitfire -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces+bill=gingerich.us at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces+bill=gingerich.us at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Daniel Parrott Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 4:38 PM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] GT-6 MK3 in Georgia I have an opportunity (?) to purchase a 1972 GT-6 MK3 cheap. It's been a while, but do they require leaded gas to run? If so, how do the listers cope with that requirement? From nmoseley at dccnet.com Mon Aug 4 17:53:17 2008 From: nmoseley at dccnet.com (Nick Moseley) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 16:53:17 -0700 Subject: [Spits] GT-6 MK3 in Georgia In-Reply-To: <003301c8f67a$52f72230$f8e56690$@net> References: <003301c8f67a$52f72230$f8e56690$@net> Message-ID: <008d01c8f68d$44f7a0c0$142ecf18@yourb27fb1c401> The correct procedure in cases like this is to: Buy it first, ask questions later! Nick Moseley -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces+nmoseley=dccnet.com at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces+nmoseley=dccnet.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Daniel Parrott Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 2:38 PM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] GT-6 MK3 in Georgia I have an opportunity (?) to purchase a 1972 GT-6 MK3 cheap. It's been a while, but do they require leaded gas to run? If so, how do the listers cope with that requirement? From cmyers at eiu.org Mon Aug 4 20:46:53 2008 From: cmyers at eiu.org (cmyers at eiu.org) Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2008 22:46:53 -0400 Subject: [Spits] GT-6 MK3 in Georgia Message-ID: <39368.1217904413@eiu.org> I used to use the magnet test to determin if a metal was stainless steel but some stainless seemed to be magnetic, at the time I thought it must be cheap stainless but someone far smarter than I informed me that There are three main types of stainless steel, some are magnetic some are not. Austenitic is non magnetic Ferritic Not sure if it is magnetic Martensitic is magnetic. It is also known as series-00 steel Now the question is which of these are exhaust valves made of? But i do agree, Buy the car, ask questions later! always wanted at gt6( and still do!) Chris Mk2 alfa powered/rotoflex On Mon Aug 4 15:01 , 'Bill Gingerich' sent: Frankly, I don't know for sure. I think the no lead exhaust valves are stainless. You might try pulling the valve cover and seeing if the exhaust valves are magnetic. If they are, they're probably steel, and therefore designed for leaded fuel. What kind of shape is the rest of the car in? Bill -----Original Message----- From: Daniel Parrott [parrotthead 01 at comcast.net','','','')">parro tthead01 at comcast.net] Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 4:51 PM To: 'Bill Gingerich'; spitfi res at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Spits] GT-6 MK3 in Georgia I'll probably invest in an engine rebuild sometime in the near future. Is there any way that I can tell if the valve seat hardening has already been done? -----Original Message----- From: Bill Gingerich [bill at gingerich.us','','','')">bill at gingeric h.us] Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 5:46 PM To: 'Daniel Parrott'; spitfi res at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Spits] GT-6 MK3 in Georgia Dan, As I recall, they were designed for leaded fuel. What my son did with his '72 GT6 was to use a lead substitute that he bought at his local auto parts store. When you're ready to pull the head, you can have the valve seats and valves redone for unleaded fuel. I did that with my '74 Spitfire. Not a problem. BillG Newalla, OK '74 Spitfire -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces+bill=gin gerich.us at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces+bill=gin gerich.us at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Daniel Parrott Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 4:38 PM To: spitfi res at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] GT-6 MK3 in Georgia I have an opportunity (?) to purchase a 1972 GT-6 MK3 cheap. It's been a while, but do they require leaded gas to run? If so, how do the listers cope with that requirement? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfi res at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From doug at dougbraun.com Tue Aug 5 04:32:52 2008 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 03:32:52 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] GT-6 MK3 in Georgia In-Reply-To: <004001c8f67c$21a7ecd0$64f7c670$@net> Message-ID: <812953.40129.qm@web608.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> If the engine currently has no valve problems (i.e. compression is OK), you can simply run it on unleaded gas until the valves do need to be replaced. Depending on how much you drive it, this might not be necessary for many years. I have owned my '72 Spitfire since about 1990, using unleaded the whole time, and I have never had to do any valve work on it. Doug --- Daniel Parrott wrote: > I'll probably invest in an engine rebuild sometime > in the near future. Is > there any way that I can tell if the valve seat > hardening has already been > done? From douglashansen at yahoo.com Tue Aug 5 12:16:49 2008 From: douglashansen at yahoo.com (Spitfire4) Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 11:16:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] my dream car Message-ID: <885109.97196.qm@web52212.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I cant believe my dream car is on ebay item 320282548673 Douglas A. Hansen www.1147cc.com From spitlist at cox.net Tue Aug 5 12:24:42 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 11:24:42 -0700 Subject: [Spits] my dream car References: <885109.97196.qm@web52212.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <02ad01c8f728$87b074a0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> And if you work it right, you can get Medicare to pay for it. Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Spitfire4" To: Cc: "spit list" Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 11:16 AM Subject: [Spits] my dream car > I cant believe my dream car is on ebay > item 320282548673 > > > Douglas A. > Hansen > www.1147cc.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Spitfires at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires > > http://www.team.net/archive From gaf3 at charter.net Tue Aug 5 20:00:59 2008 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2008 22:00:59 -0400 Subject: [Spits] VTR 2008 Update and a Flame for Darryll Floyd!! Message-ID: <489905DB.3020206@charter.net> As a VTR member for almost 20 years and attending a number of these conventions I have to comment on my and my wifes experiences with this particular convention. So far a good experience, the Detroit Club has been very accommodating. The events have been well planned out but they could have contacted local VTR members that are from the area for more information. The reason I belong to the VTR is that I have a fondness for the mark and have a barn full of these cars that have been restored or need restoration. What really irritates me (pisses me off) is the arrogance of some members. I must comment that the FOT beer swap that Marty Sukey planned went extremely well. I and a few others brought some local and home brew that crowd enjoyed. I would suggest this should be a regular event at the triumph gatherings. So good plan Marty it was a pleasure meeting another FOT member and home brewer. What really irritated us was the arrogance of one particular VTR member Daryl Floyd. After sucking down on the ( and mine) free beer, he had the nerve after waiting in line for the chili dogs to say that the empty table was all taken ( 16 seats and never full after that) and we couldn't have a place to sit for a moment to eat our dogs. It's disconcerting looking at a table with 14 empty chairs that is full because someone says so. There were quite a few people eating on the lawn due to the invisible attendants at this table. After we left in disgust the table never did fill up. We wondered if there was some cover charge for special VTR members. This sucks and we find it personally offensive. Our money, I assume, was printed on the same press as their's and we should have had access to seating at this venue. I find it disgusting behavior when individuals act in this manner. If the goal of these events is to promote camaraderie and the Triumph Mark I'm all for it. If I have to put up with this B%% S%%t. then I guess I'll by a Miata.. Sincerely Disgusted Glenn Franco 3 TR6's. TR250, Spit Racer, 1500 Spit From mike.vasquez at gmail.com Tue Aug 5 22:17:15 2008 From: mike.vasquez at gmail.com (Mike Vasquez) Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 21:17:15 -0700 Subject: [Spits] ID this part? Message-ID: <28f529ba0808052117t1c1f7b6fm71857022eb830055@mail.gmail.com> Hey listers -- Take a look here: http://www.meant2bdriven.com/?q=node/17 Is that handle original? Also, can you ID the parts on the upper/lower right? It's tough when you didn't take it apart, to reassemble... but I'm hoping someone's been in the same spot and can assist -- would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mike From spitlist at cox.net Tue Aug 5 22:22:18 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 21:22:18 -0700 Subject: [Spits] ID this part? In-Reply-To: <28f529ba0808052117t1c1f7b6fm71857022eb830055@mail.gmail.com> References: <28f529ba0808052117t1c1f7b6fm71857022eb830055@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <177132F58E1848288136329D9166CF84@newcomputer> I have no idea what the part is that has the 3 holes, but the one little teardrop piece with the slot is one of two pieces that mounts on the rear panel behind the cockpit and holds the bar that secures the rear of the soft top. The other piece is one of 3 that secure the windshield frame. The bright pieces are finishers. Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Vasquez Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 9:17 PM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] ID this part? Hey listers -- Take a look here: http://www.meant2bdriven.com/?q=node/17 Is that handle original? Also, can you ID the parts on the upper/lower right? It's tough when you didn't take it apart, to reassemble... but I'm hoping someone's been in the same spot and can assist -- would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mike Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From zoboherald at aol.com Wed Aug 6 07:40:44 2008 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2008 09:40:44 -0400 Subject: [Spits] ID this part? In-Reply-To: <177132F58E1848288136329D9166CF84@newcomputer> References: <28f529ba0808052117t1c1f7b6fm71857022eb830055@mail.gmail.com> <177132F58E1848288136329D9166CF84@newcomputer> Message-ID: <8CAC5E128CC9C86-16F8-1F6@FWM-D28.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Joe Curry To: 'Mike Vasquez' ; spitfires at autox.team.net I have no idea what the part is that has the 3 holes.... ==AM== I can't ID the manufacturer or vendor, but I remember seeing items like these sold as aftermarket/accessory/dress-up interior door handles. Someone already pointed out the factory Mk2 exhaust header, and I see that the car also appears to have a Mk2 radiator (no separate expansion tank mounted over the carburetors). What's the engine number? Perhaps it is a Mk2 engine? --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: From mike.vasquez at gmail.com Wed Aug 6 07:53:24 2008 From: mike.vasquez at gmail.com (Mike Vasquez) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 06:53:24 -0700 Subject: [Spits] ID this part? In-Reply-To: <8CAC5E128CC9C86-16F8-1F6@FWM-D28.sysops.aol.com> References: <28f529ba0808052117t1c1f7b6fm71857022eb830055@mail.gmail.com> <177132F58E1848288136329D9166CF84@newcomputer> <8CAC5E128CC9C86-16F8-1F6@FWM-D28.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <28f529ba0808060653r6c1d924foe9fd42d0c8f3d2e6@mail.gmail.com> The cars being brought down this week, so I can't verify the engine number at the moment, but the PO said it matched the commision number: FC24119... That's the inner door handle, but sounds at this point like it's definitely after-market. A few folks have the original style door handles, so I'll be following up once I'm done inventorying what I've got, and get an original set. Thanks Mike On Wed, Aug 6, 2008 at 6:40 AM, Andrew Mace wrote: > -----Original Message----- > From: Joe Curry > To: 'Mike Vasquez' ; spitfires at autox.team.net > > I have no idea what the part is that has the 3 holes.... > > ==AM== > I can't ID the manufacturer or vendor, but I remember seeing items like > these sold as aftermarket/accessory/dress-up interior door handles. > > Someone already pointed out the factory Mk2 exhaust header, and I see > that the car also appears to have a Mk2 radiator (no separate expansion > tank mounted over the carburetors). What's the engine number? Perhaps > it is a Mk2 engine? > > --Andy Mace > > *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? > *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, > Triumph Herald engine with wings. > -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) > > Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph > Herald Database at its new URL: > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Spitfires at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires > > http://www.team.net/archive From zoboherald at aol.com Wed Aug 6 09:07:36 2008 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2008 11:07:36 -0400 Subject: [Spits] ID this part? In-Reply-To: <28f529ba0808060653r6c1d924foe9fd42d0c8f3d2e6@mail.gmail.com> References: <28f529ba0808052117t1c1f7b6fm71857022eb830055@mail.gmail.com> <177132F58E1848288136329D9166CF84@newcomputer> <8CAC5E128CC9C86-16F8-1F6@FWM-D28.sysops.aol.com> <28f529ba0808060653r6c1d924foe9fd42d0c8f3d2e6@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <8CAC5ED4B31355A-16F8-A41@FWM-D28.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Mike Vasquez The cars being brought down this week, so I can't verify the engine number at the moment, but the PO said it matched the commision number: FC24119... ==AM== While it's not unheard of, engine numbers almost never "match" commission numbers. They're usually several hundred numbers higher. I'm just curious as to the engine number given the Mk2 header and radiator setup! Meanwhile, the car looks to be a great basis for restoration; too bad, though, about what looks to have been originally a fairly rare wood-rim steering wheel, now pretty much sans wood. :-( --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: From stevebez at gmail.com Wed Aug 6 13:01:12 2008 From: stevebez at gmail.com (Steve Beswick) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 12:01:12 -0700 Subject: [Spits] ID this part? Message-ID: <6623d4d50808061201r4e25d4a6mf5037e8a52d6d693@mail.gmail.com> The door handle looks like an aftermarket style that has been used on VW bugs. From stevebez at gmail.com Wed Aug 6 13:09:29 2008 From: stevebez at gmail.com (Steve Beswick) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 12:09:29 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Stainless test Message-ID: <6623d4d50808061209s28831e30x2aab204aa0dc7f7b@mail.gmail.com> To those who have recommended using a magnet to test valves:Stainless Steel is magnetic. How do you think magnetic knife bars work? From douglashansen at yahoo.com Wed Aug 6 13:28:24 2008 From: douglashansen at yahoo.com (Spitfire4) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 12:28:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] Stainless test Message-ID: <378077.49530.qm@web52201.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I have not seen any hardware that is magnetic; if you go shopping for nuts or bolts in SS they will not be magnetic. the SS bolts Ive used have been weak and soft and require re torquing over time. but I only use these in non structural parts and always use lock washers and thread locker... from wiki Types of stainless steel There are different types of stainless steels: when nickel is added, for instance, the austenite structure of iron is stabilized. This crystal structure makes such steels non-magnetic and less brittle at low temperatures. For higher hardness and strength, carbon is added. When subjected to adequate heat treatment, these steels are used as razor blades, cutlery, tools, etc. Significant quantities of manganese have been used in many stainless steel compositions. Manganese preserves an austenitic structure in the steel as does nickel, but at a lower cost. Douglas A. Hansen www.1147cc.com ----- Original Message ---- From: Steve Beswick To: spitfires at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, August 6, 2008 3:09:29 PM Subject: Re: [Spits] Stainless test To those who have recommended using a magnet to test valves:Stainless Steel is magnetic. How do you think magnetic knife bars work? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From mdporter at dfn.com Wed Aug 6 13:31:16 2008 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2008 13:31:16 -0600 Subject: [Spits] Stainless test In-Reply-To: <6623d4d50808061209s28831e30x2aab204aa0dc7f7b@mail.gmail.com> References: <6623d4d50808061209s28831e30x2aab204aa0dc7f7b@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4899FC04.8080602@dfn.com> Steve Beswick wrote: > To those who have recommended using a magnet to test valves:Stainless Steel > is magnetic. How do you think magnetic knife bars work? > Umm. Sort of. Austenitic stainless steels are not magnetic in their annealed form, but become weakly magnetic with working, but not as strongly magnetic as ferritic stainlesses or other carbon steel. The more an austenitic stainless is worked, the more magnetic it becomes. So, it's true that a magnetic test won't identify a stainless valve from a carbon steel valve. As for the original question, I don't think a stainless valve is necessarily a mandatory item for unleaded operation, and depending upon the stainless alloy, might not actually be the best choice, as some stainlesses are not as hard as better carbon steel valves, and the valve face may deform around the valve seat over time. In any event, simply assuming that "stainless" is better is not necessarily true. Any valve with Stellite hard facing is probably just as suitable. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From bill at gingerich.us Wed Aug 6 15:37:25 2008 From: bill at gingerich.us (Bill Gingerich) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 16:37:25 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Stainless test In-Reply-To: <4899FC04.8080602@dfn.com> References: <6623d4d50808061209s28831e30x2aab204aa0dc7f7b@mail.gmail.com> <4899FC04.8080602@dfn.com> Message-ID: <606B6F43BC3944D4B5C758C511F42B34@shack2> When I originally made the magnet suggestion last Monday, I wasn't sure if it would work. The stainless that I've had the chance to hit with a magnet haven't been magnetic, so I figured it was worth a shot. The last metallurgy class I took was almost 30 years ago, and my memory is showing signs of fading. (grin) The idea for stainless exhaust valves came from a conversation I had with the engine shop doing my Spitfire 1500 rebuild in 2002. They suggested stainless exhaust valves as part of making the engine happy with no lead fuel. Since Spitbits offers stainless valves, I bought 4 and let the engine guys do their thing. As several previous posts have pointed out, given the low mileage most Triumphs get, making a special point of reworking the head probably isn't needed. BillG Newalla, OK -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces+bill=gingerich.us at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces+bill=gingerich.us at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Porter Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 2:31 PM To: Steve Beswick Cc: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] Stainless test Steve Beswick wrote: > To those who have recommended using a magnet to test valves:Stainless Steel > is magnetic. How do you think magnetic knife bars work? > Umm. Sort of. Austenitic stainless steels are not magnetic in their annealed form, but become weakly magnetic with working, but not as strongly magnetic as ferritic stainlesses or other carbon steel. The more an austenitic stainless is worked, the more magnetic it becomes. So, it's true that a magnetic test won't identify a stainless valve from a carbon steel valve. As for the original question, I don't think a stainless valve is necessarily a mandatory item for unleaded operation, and depending upon the stainless alloy, might not actually be the best choice, as some stainlesses are not as hard as better carbon steel valves, and the valve face may deform around the valve seat over time. In any event, simply assuming that "stainless" is better is not necessarily true. Any valve with Stellite hard facing is probably just as suitable. Cheers. From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Wed Aug 6 17:30:09 2008 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 19:30:09 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Spits] Update - BRISBANE MARINA BRITISH CAR MEET - Sept. 6 & 7, 2008 Message-ID: <2114617.1218065409137.JavaMail.root@elwamui-wigeon.atl.sa.earthlink.net> NEW WEBSITE: www.allcarcentral.com/thebritishcarnetwork.html LODGING ALTERNATIVES Dear British Motorhead, We have checked out the lodging situation in the Brisbane area for people who live far enough away to stay overnight for a night or two for a more relaxed weekend. Carole Burton, the official British meet travel agent, got us a DEAL at the Radisson Hotel, right in the Brisbane Marina! The Radisson is a very upscale, business type hotel with gourmet restaurant. We have special British Car Meet rate of $109 per day, Friday, Saturday or Sunday. Address, 5000 Sierra Point Parkway, Brisbane, Phone 415-467-4400. Ask for the British Car Meet rates. More local North Bay lodging on our website: www.allcarcentral.com/thebritishcarnetwork.html Best, Rick Feibusch 310-392-6605 Meet Coordinator - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - NEW WEBSITE: www.allcarcentral.com/thebritishcarnetwork.html THE BRISBANE MARINA BRITISH CAR MEET * 2008 The Weekend Of Saturday & Sunday * Sept. 6th & 7th Join your British car friends for a smashing day at the Brisbane Marina at Sierra Point. Over 300 quirky, classic, and lovable British cars will once again gather in the Bay Area for our 31st Annual British Car Meet. Don't have a show car? Don't worry! Daily drivers, vintage racers, street rods and works-in-progress are as welcome as Concours quality show cars. This is essentially the old Palo Alto British Meet in a new location. We are also expecting another great display of automotive oddities provided by the Arcane Auto Society. Spectators attend and park for free. SUNDAY SHOW - BRISBANE MARINA - SEPTEMBER 7th Cars will be placed at 9:00AM and the fun goes on all day. The food will be handled by the Brisbane Lions Club and the Sierra Point Yacht Club will open their doors on Sunday for a reasonable, sit-down breakfast Herb Gibson's Jazz Orchestra will be back again, set up just outside the Yacht Club. There is no preregistration. There will be marque awards in over 15 classes and all entrants will receive a commemorative gift. The registration fee is $25 per car at the gate. SATURDAY TOUR - SEPTEMBER 6th The British Car Meet TOUR TO THE SEA starts at the Brisbane Marina boathouse (the same place as the Sunday Car Show) and winds through the hills to the sea. Itbs no-cost option for people who like to drive their cars as well as show them. We will be sending cars off between 9:00AM and 10:30AM. A detailed map will be provided. The tour ends at Cameron's Pub in Half Moon Bay where we will be kicking tyres and telling tall tales in the car park well into the afternoon. DIRECTIONS: The Brisbane Marina is lacated just east of the Bayshore Freeway (101) between San Francisco and the SF Airport/Highway 380. Just take the Brisbane/Sierra Point Exit and follow the signs to the Marina. Trailer parking will be available on-site. Call for information: 310-392-6605 e-mail: Brisbane Marina 2008 Website: http://www.allcarcentral.com/thebritishcarnetwork.html From doug at dougbraun.com Wed Aug 6 18:36:37 2008 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 17:36:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] Update - BRISBANE MARINA BRITISH CAR MEET - Sept. 6 & 7, 2008 In-Reply-To: <2114617.1218065409137.JavaMail.root@elwamui-wigeon.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <828618.55058.qm@web608.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> It that Brisbane, Australia, or Brisbane just south of San Francisco? Doug From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Fri Aug 8 18:41:00 2008 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Schwartz) Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2008 18:41:00 Subject: [Spits] Triumphest at big bear years ago? Message-ID: <3.0.4.16.20080808184100.18e71f80@pop.west.cox.net> Does anybody remember the hotel that Triumphest was at when it was at Big Bear? I believe that it was in 1996 - My Wife and I were thinking of booking a weekend at the same hotel in a couple of weeks, but can't really nail down the name - We think it was at the Northwoods but my aging memory may be failing me??? Thanks in advance Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) From parrotthead01 at comcast.net Sun Aug 10 12:28:06 2008 From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net (Daniel Parrott) Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 14:28:06 -0400 Subject: [Spits] GT-6 MK3 in Georgia In-Reply-To: <003301c8f67a$52f72230$f8e56690$@net> References: <003301c8f67a$52f72230$f8e56690$@net> Message-ID: <000901c8fb16$d54f85b0$7fee9110$@net> Well, the Spit6 Project car is resting comfortably in my driveway here in Savannah, From the Commission number, the body is from a 1978 donor car. How do I determine the age and vintage of the engine? VB doesn't carry the engine numbers as a guide. The engine number is: KF10676UE. Both the spoiler and the bonnet indicate that the donor engine and chassis is from a MK 3. 1972 or 1973? Any ideas? -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces+parrotthead01=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces+parrotthead01=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Daniel Parrott Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 5:38 PM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] GT-6 MK3 in Georgia I have an opportunity (?) to purchase a 1972 GT-6 MK3 cheap. It's been a while, but do they require leaded gas to run? If so, how do the listers cope with that requirement? Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From bill at gingerich.us Sun Aug 10 18:08:05 2008 From: bill at gingerich.us (Bill Gingerich) Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 19:08:05 -0500 Subject: [Spits] GT-6 MK3 in Georgia In-Reply-To: <000901c8fb16$d54f85b0$7fee9110$@net> References: <003301c8f67a$52f72230$f8e56690$@net> <000901c8fb16$d54f85b0$7fee9110$@net> Message-ID: Hi Dan, My opinion is it's an early '72. I think '72 started at commission number KE/KF10001. While engine numbers usually don't match commission numbers exactly, KF10676UE is far enough past KE/KF10001 to fit in as a '72. You might be able to get more info from the frame number, as those ran consecutively throughout GT6 production. www.triumphspitfire.com has a lot of info on the production numbers. '73 started at KE/KF20001, so it certainly isn't a '73. '73 also had non- rotoflex rear suspension. BillG Newalla, OK -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces+bill=gingerich.us at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces+bill=gingerich.us at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Daniel Parrott Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2008 1:28 PM To: 'Daniel Parrott'; spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] GT-6 MK3 in Georgia Well, the Spit6 Project car is resting comfortably in my driveway here in Savannah, From the Commission number, the body is from a 1978 donor car. How do I determine the age and vintage of the engine? VB doesn't carry the engine numbers as a guide. The engine number is: KF10676UE. Both the spoiler and the bonnet indicate that the donor engine and chassis is from a MK 3. 1972 or 1973? Any ideas? -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces+parrotthead01=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces+parrotthead01=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Daniel Parrott Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 5:38 PM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] GT-6 MK3 in Georgia I have an opportunity (?) to purchase a 1972 GT-6 MK3 cheap. It's been a while, but do they require leaded gas to run? If so, how do the listers cope with that requirement? From mike.vasquez at gmail.com Mon Aug 11 12:39:00 2008 From: mike.vasquez at gmail.com (Mike Vasquez) Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 11:39:00 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Recommendations: dash / body parts / welding equipments: 64 Spit Message-ID: <28f529ba0808111139v3e259cefq6af0644ed8e54a47@mail.gmail.com> I'm beginning an inventory and review of the '64 spit I recently purchased. In my excitement to purchase, I somehow missed the PO's replacement of a floor pan with.... well, I'm not sure quite what it was. I'd like your recommendations on: 1) Good source for replacement rocker panels (driver/passenger) and floor pans (driver, pedal area bad, seat area OK) 2) Either a) replacement dash or b) someone willing to give me measurements for their dash/pattern/etc. I'm considering fabricating my own, but want to see what's out there as well. Luckily, I *do* have all the gauges for the car, they came this week, the PO found them. Phew!!! 3) Finally: I'm looking for affordable welding equipment to replace these body parts. I haven't welded before. I'd like minimum equipment recommendations that would do the job. (I have access to free courses at my local community college if I can't figure it out myself...) Thanks! Mike 1964 Spitfire 4 (Mk 1) FC24119 http://www.MeantToBeDriven.com From todjones at comcast.net Mon Aug 11 18:51:44 2008 From: todjones at comcast.net (Tod Jones) Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 20:51:44 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Recommendations: dash / body parts / welding equipments: 64 Spit References: <28f529ba0808111139v3e259cefq6af0644ed8e54a47@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <000701c8fc15$985577f0$6401a8c0@tod> Vicky Brit has decent sheetmetal replacement parts. I have also used spitbits with good results. Both use BMHIT stampings. Others might be good also YMMV. Whenever you are looking for help give your location. Someone might be close enough to help. i have a welder and have ben known to help for food or to see a Spitfire brought back to life. A welder is something that is indespensable when you need it but gets in the way the rest of the time. Renting one is another another option. Tod Jones 67 Spit-6 Harrisonburg VA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Vasquez" To: ; Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 2:39 PM Subject: [Spits] Recommendations: dash / body parts / welding equipments: 64 Spit > I'm beginning an inventory and review of the '64 spit I recently > purchased. > In my excitement to purchase, I somehow missed the PO's replacement of a > floor pan with.... well, I'm not sure quite what it was. > > I'd like your recommendations on: > > 1) Good source for replacement rocker panels (driver/passenger) and floor > pans (driver, pedal area bad, seat area OK) > 2) Either a) replacement dash or b) someone willing to give me > measurements > for their dash/pattern/etc. > > I'm considering fabricating my own, but want to see what's out there as > well. Luckily, I *do* have all the gauges for the car, they came this > week, > the PO found them. Phew!!! > > 3) Finally: I'm looking for affordable welding equipment to replace these > body parts. I haven't welded before. I'd like minimum equipment > recommendations that would do the job. (I have access to free courses at > my > local community college if I can't figure it out myself...) > > Thanks! > > Mike > 1964 Spitfire 4 (Mk 1) FC24119 > http://www.MeantToBeDriven.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Spitfires at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires > > http://www.team.net/archive From spitfire at freebacon.net Mon Aug 11 19:41:09 2008 From: spitfire at freebacon.net (Mike Welch) Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 19:41:09 -0600 Subject: [Spits] Recommendations: dash / body parts / welding equipments: 64 Spit In-Reply-To: <28f529ba0808111139v3e259cefq6af0644ed8e54a47@mail.gmail.com> References: <28f529ba0808111139v3e259cefq6af0644ed8e54a47@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: www.spitbits.com www.victoriabritish.com www.theroadsterfactory.com These are the big three in my book for replacement parts. Moss is good for 'universal' parts, but they don't have any info on round-tails. I can try scanning my dash panels, the center bit is the same on your '64 and my '69, but the actual gauge placement will vary. The schematic on the sites above will give you a good idea on how they are laid out. I found a cheap welder for ~100. I got mine from Harbor Freight, but Wal-Mart had one on the shelf that would do the job for under $100. I'm not a welder, but it didn't take too long to get the hang of it. Just take it slow, tack down corners, etc. I highly recommend an auto-darkening helmet, it makes it much easier if you can see your work before doing anything. When replacing the sills, be sure to support the car, the sill provides a lot of support to prevent the cab from buckling. http://www.classic-car-magazine.co.uk/spitrest/spitfire-sill-replacement.html will be a good read. Also, http://www.amazon.com/Restore-Classic-Bodywork-Enthusiasts-Restoration/dp/1903706629/ref=pd_bbs_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1218505039&sr=8-1 covers most of what you're going to run in to, and it uses a Spitfire for the instructions. Mike Welch '69 Spitfire x 2 '69 Honda SL350 '76 Honda CB550F Colorado Springs, CO ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Vasquez" To: ; Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 12:39 PM Subject: [Spits] Recommendations: dash / body parts / welding equipments: 64 Spit > I'm beginning an inventory and review of the '64 spit I recently > purchased. > In my excitement to purchase, I somehow missed the PO's replacement of a > floor pan with.... well, I'm not sure quite what it was. > > I'd like your recommendations on: > > 1) Good source for replacement rocker panels (driver/passenger) and floor > pans (driver, pedal area bad, seat area OK) > 2) Either a) replacement dash or b) someone willing to give me > measurements > for their dash/pattern/etc. > > I'm considering fabricating my own, but want to see what's out there as > well. Luckily, I *do* have all the gauges for the car, they came this > week, > the PO found them. Phew!!! > > 3) Finally: I'm looking for affordable welding equipment to replace these > body parts. I haven't welded before. I'd like minimum equipment > recommendations that would do the job. (I have access to free courses at > my > local community college if I can't figure it out myself...) > > Thanks! > > Mike > 1964 Spitfire 4 (Mk 1) FC24119 > http://www.MeantToBeDriven.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Spitfires at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires > > http://www.team.net/archive From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Tue Aug 12 13:06:52 2008 From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com) Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 15:06:52 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Recommendations: dash / body parts / welding In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Well, it's not the cheapest welder, but I have a Hobart 135, 120V, with gas connections, and it worked great this past year welding in all the new panels on my 80 Spitfire 1500. The Hobart 135 has lots of voltage and wire speed settings, something to look for on whatever welder you decide to purchase. One other thing: buy an autodarkening helmet. This will help make you a better welder. Mark 80 Spitfire 1500 Corunna, ON From: "Mike Vasquez" Subject: [Spits] Recommendations: dash / body parts / welding 3) Finally: I'm looking for affordable welding equipment to replace these body parts. I haven't welded before. I'd like minimum equipment recommendations that would do the job. (I have access to free courses at my local community college if I can't figure it out myself...) Thanks! Mike 1964 Spitfire 4 (Mk 1) FC24119 http://www.MeantToBeDriven.com From nmoseley at dccnet.com Tue Aug 12 21:41:25 2008 From: nmoseley at dccnet.com (Nick Moseley) Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 20:41:25 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Recommendations: dash / body parts / welding equipments: 64 Spit In-Reply-To: References: <28f529ba0808111139v3e259cefq6af0644ed8e54a47@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <001401c8fcf6$76bd9730$6400a8c0@yourb27fb1c401> Thanks Mike W, great find, that's a really good site! Lots snipped:" http://www.classic-car-magazine.co.uk/spitrest/spitfire-sill-replacement.htm l " Mike Welch '69 Spitfire x 2 '69 Honda SL350 '76 Honda CB550F Colorado Springs, CO Unsnip Nick Moseley NASS #278 From stiker2126 at yahoo.com Wed Aug 13 04:30:25 2008 From: stiker2126 at yahoo.com (Henry Stike) Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 03:30:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] Part Needed Message-ID: <912836.71064.qm@web30704.mail.mud.yahoo.com> For all out there, we finally have had time to get the wobbling axles fixed. As many of you suggested, it was the u-joints and the clips were too thin, thus they were not centered right. no we have a problem with the back of the keyswitch assembly, its coming apart. We have an assembly for a 76 spitty, but need one for this 79 1500 as it has more wires...I thought the keyswitch was one piece, but I was shown that it is just pushed into the main body of the switch in the rear of it. Everything that goes to that wiring has been acting totally Lucus for some time and Henry wants to get it fixed. After looking around catalogs, it appears this is not available for a 79... but did see ones up to 76. So, if anyone has one of these from a junked out late model, please let us know..... Thanks... Donald and Henry From doug at dougbraun.com Wed Aug 13 18:15:16 2008 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 17:15:16 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] Recommendations: dash / body parts / welding In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <201591.88514.qm@web604.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Like everybody says, get an auto-darkening helmet. Even a HF cheapo is better than nothing. Also, the Spit's sheet metal is pretty thin, and the thinner sheet metal is, the harder it is to weld. make sure you practice on some scraps of the same thickness. If you really must use flux-core, find the thinner kind. I think it is .030 instead of the standard 0.35" Doug From mike.vasquez at gmail.com Wed Aug 13 19:14:48 2008 From: mike.vasquez at gmail.com (Mike Vasquez) Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 18:14:48 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Recommendations: dash / body parts / welding equipments: 64 Spit In-Reply-To: <001401c8fcf6$76bd9730$6400a8c0@yourb27fb1c401> References: <28f529ba0808111139v3e259cefq6af0644ed8e54a47@mail.gmail.com> <001401c8fcf6$76bd9730$6400a8c0@yourb27fb1c401> Message-ID: <28f529ba0808131814g79abfb33i86237b6649fe68c2@mail.gmail.com> Thanks for all the feedback, much appreciated! I posted several more pics, including engine compartment, etc. http://www.meant2bdriven.com/?q=image/tid/1 Looks like it's the original engine: FC25036, commision is FC24119. Took more pics of the carb setup, as someone commented it was unusual. Think I'm going to take a stab at getting it running before I worry about the rocker panels. Knowing it runs will ease my mind that the engine's not frozen or any other major issues (though I am suspecting transmission issues, since the gearshift doesn't seem connected to anything...) And will probably pick up a harbor freight welder and learn how -- sounds like a MIG welder would be ideal, and I've gotten suggestions to use gas instead of the flux core (as I recall) for better results. I'll also be checkign pawn shops/craigslists for welders too. Anyway, that's the plan. Will be changing the website to make it a bit simpler, probably going with a blog format vs this drupal CMS, which now seems like overkill. OH -- have ordered: How to Restore Your Collector Car (Motorbooks Workshop) The Triumph Spitfire Mk I, Mk Ii, Mk Iii, Herald, Vitesse, 1959-1970 (Triumph) British Leyland Motors Triumph Spitfire, 1962-1981 (Haynes Manuals) [Paperback] by Haynes, John And will be looking into some of the other suggestions as well. :-) Mike On Tue, Aug 12, 2008 at 8:41 PM, Nick Moseley wrote: > Thanks Mike W, great find, that's a really good site! > > Lots snipped:" > > http://www.classic-car-magazine.co.uk/spitrest/spitfire-sill-replacement.htm > l " > > Mike Welch > '69 Spitfire x 2 > '69 Honda SL350 > '76 Honda CB550F > Colorado Springs, CO > Unsnip > > Nick Moseley NASS #278 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Spitfires at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires > > http://www.team.net/archive From cmyers at eiu.org Wed Aug 13 19:47:15 2008 From: cmyers at eiu.org (cmyers at eiu.org) Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 21:47:15 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Wire wheel mounting in S.F. bay area? Message-ID: <48248.1218678435@eiu.org> I need new tires in order to get my car back on the road after many years, but the hold up is finding a good tire shop. I am looking for a tire shop that has experience mounting tires to wire wheels. Was warned when I bought the wheels years ago that inexperienced tire shops try and mount them to the machine with the wrong way and end up damaging the center splines. Has anyone had there tires mounted in the San Francisco bay area? Thanks, Chris Alfa Powered rotoflex Mk2 From zoboherald at aol.com Thu Aug 14 07:52:17 2008 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 09:52:17 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Recommendations: dash / body parts / welding equipments: 64 Spit In-Reply-To: <28f529ba0808131814g79abfb33i86237b6649fe68c2@mail.gmail.com> References: <28f529ba0808111139v3e259cefq6af0644ed8e54a47@mail.gmail.com> <001401c8fcf6$76bd9730$6400a8c0@yourb27fb1c401> <28f529ba0808131814g79abfb33i86237b6649fe68c2@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <8CACC2C1952AC61-460-A5B@WEBMAIL-DC15.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Mike Vasquez Thanks for all the feedback, much appreciated! I posted several more pics, including engine compartment, etc. http://www.meant2bdriven.com/?q=image/tid/1 Looks like it's the original engine: FC25036, commision is FC24119. Took more pics of the carb setup, as someone commented it was unusual.... ==AM== Nothing particularly unusual there; it's a typical early Spitfire carbs/manifold set. It does look to have the Mk2 factory exhaust header, but the carbs look ok! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Thu Aug 14 12:39:03 2008 From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com) Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 14:39:03 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Spitfires Digest, Vol 2, Issue 141 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Mike, I don't see anything odd about that HS2 carb setup; could be because I took part in the 48 hr rebuild at the VTR NATC last week and it was a 64 Spitfire that we rebuilt. http://natc2008.shutterfly.com/62 Another great book, with lots of pictures on restoring a Spitfire's body is Classic Car Bodywork by Martin Thaddeus. My wife bought me this book for Christmas and I got it dirty while rebuilding my Spitfire's body this past winter. You can weld body panels with flux-core wire, but the job will be easier with gas; it's less messy. Mark Message: 2 Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 18:14:48 -0700 From: "Mike Vasquez" Subject: Re: [Spits] Recommendations: dash / body parts / welding equipments: 64 Spit To: spitfires at autox.team.net, nass at yahoogroups.com Message-ID: <28f529ba0808131814g79abfb33i86237b6649fe68c2 at mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Thanks for all the feedback, much appreciated! I posted several more pics, including engine compartment, etc. http://www.meant2bdriven.com/?q=image/tid/1 Looks like it's the original engine: FC25036, commision is FC24119. Took more pics of the carb setup, as someone commented it was unusual. Think I'm going to take a stab at getting it running before I worry about the rocker panels. Knowing it runs will ease my mind that the engine's not frozen or any other major issues (though I am suspecting transmission issues, since the gearshift doesn't seem connected to anything...) And will probably pick up a harbor freight welder and learn how -- sounds like a MIG welder would be ideal, and I've gotten suggestions to use gas instead of the flux core (as I recall) for better results. I'll also be checkign pawn shops/craigslists for welders too. Anyway, that's the plan. Will be changing the website to make it a bit simpler, probably going with a blog format vs this drupal CMS, which now seems like overkill. OH -- have ordered: How to Restore Your Collector Car (Motorbooks Workshop) The Triumph Spitfire Mk I, Mk Ii, Mk Iii, Herald, Vitesse, 1959-1970 (Triumph) British Leyland Motors Triumph Spitfire, 1962-1981 (Haynes Manuals) [Paperback] by Haynes, John And will be looking into some of the other suggestions as well. :-) Mike From mike.vasquez at gmail.com Thu Aug 14 12:59:20 2008 From: mike.vasquez at gmail.com (Mike Vasquez) Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 11:59:20 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Recommendations: dash / body parts / welding equipments: 64 Spit In-Reply-To: <8CACC2C1952AC61-460-A5B@WEBMAIL-DC15.sysops.aol.com> References: <28f529ba0808111139v3e259cefq6af0644ed8e54a47@mail.gmail.com> <001401c8fcf6$76bd9730$6400a8c0@yourb27fb1c401> <28f529ba0808131814g79abfb33i86237b6649fe68c2@mail.gmail.com> <8CACC2C1952AC61-460-A5B@WEBMAIL-DC15.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <28f529ba0808141159j717212e1yc091d250badc1213@mail.gmail.com> Yes -- I don't know how I had gotten carb in my mind (except it was so prevalent in the picture?) but the note was that it appeared to be a Mk 2 Header and a Mk 1 Intake. Stock carbs. Sorry for the confusion. Several folks confirmed that as well, and ignored my carb misdirection. :-) Just keepin' you guys on your toes, honest! I've decided to hold off for a bit on welding, to see if the engine will turn over and maybe even start. That's always motiviation, right? No intention on driving it, just want to have an idea if it's frozen up or not, and close to running. I'd be disheartened to do all the body work to finish, and then find out I'm on an engine hunt.... Following Bill's advice, going to get a container of gas, check the electrical connections, hook a battery up, and cross my fingers. (Oh, and do an oil change/radiator check first). Thanks, Mike From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Mon Aug 18 19:24:22 2008 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 21:24:22 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Spits] SAN DIEGO BRITISH CAR DAY - Sunday, October 5, 2008 Message-ID: <14854177.1219109062681.JavaMail.root@elwamui-wigeon.atl.sa.earthlink.net> 29th ANNUAL SAN DIEGO BRITISH CAR DAY Sunday, October 5, 2008 San Diego British Car Day Website at: www.sandiegobritishcarday.org Twenty eight years ago, a hearty band of British car enthusiasts got together over picnics at a park to view each othersb cars, and enjoy each othersb friendship. This year, we begin to return to that heritage. Over the past 28 years the event has grown considerably and now attracts participants from all over California and beyond. We are proud that this event has become one of the premier British car shows in California. In the past few years, we have incurred considerable additional expenses relating to, among other things, permits and insurance. Thus, starting this year, we have made some changes in keeping with the original spirit of the event. For instance, there will be no program or raffle at this yearbs show. Also, due to the increased expenses, we have had to increase our registration fees by $5.00. We continue to provide a wonderful experience, including a variety of vendors, Hoggbs Beach BBQ, the very popular Cameron Highlander Bagpipers and over 400 diverse English cars for your viewing pleasure. The San Diego British Car Club Council is a California nonprofit mutual benefit corporation. OCTOBER 5th EVENT SCHEDULE 7:30 b 10:00 Registration -- Park in your Marque area as directed/signed 10:00 b 3:00 Cars on display 11:30 b 12:00 Judging for best b Classic Elegantb English picnic 12:00 Ballots must be presented to the Club ballot boxes for cars of choice. Clubs count the ballots and turn in at the Judging boothbb on the hillb by the Minis 12:00 b 2:00 Picnic or Lunch at your leisure . . . and please pick up your trash! 12:30 Ballots MUST be turned into the Judging booth 2:00 Awards presentation 3:00 to ??? Enjoy the rest of the day . . . exit carefully please ADDITIONAL INFORMATION On the above event, or any particular Club or marque in attendance today b most have Web pages, and can be linked by going to the San Diego British Car Day Website at: www.sandiegobritishcarday.org or by calling the information line: 760-746-1458 Pre-Registration Fee: $20.00 per car Make Check Payable to: BCCC MAIL BY SEPT. 12th to: San Diego British Car Club Council P. O. Box 710131 San Diego, CA 92171-0131 QUESTIONS? Please call San Diego British Car Day Information Line: 760 - 746 - 1458 www.sandiegobritishcarday.org Thank you! From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net Mon Aug 18 19:26:33 2008 From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Bob Berger) Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 20:26:33 -0500 Subject: [Spits] [TR] Pertronix Failure In-Reply-To: <4E84B3EC76F6484BBF3E4DF16459606D@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: All, Can points be retrofitted to an electronic ignition? My 78 spitfire has the original Lucas electronic unit that is mounted on the side of the distributor. -- Bob Berger 78 Spitfire St. Louis, MO From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Mon Aug 18 19:58:28 2008 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 21:58:28 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Spits] Correct info - SAN DIEGO BRITISH CAR DAY - Sunday, October 5, 2008 Message-ID: <28369401.1219111108343.JavaMail.root@elwamui-wigeon.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Dear Folks, Sorry but the recent publication of the info about the San Diego British Car Meet was a confused communication that is totally wrong - Hope you don't mind deleting the first one I sent and pay attention to this one. Sorry about the confusion - thanks for your understanding ... Rick Feibusch British Car Network - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 29th San Diego British Car Day and Picnic Admiral Baker Field, San Diego, CA Sunday, October 5, 2008 San Diego British Car Day Website at: www.sandiegobritishcarday.org Twenty-nine years ago, a hearty band of British car enthusiasts got together over picnics at a park to view each otherbs cars, and enjoy each otherbs friendship. This year, we return to that heritage. Over the past 29 years the event has grown considerably and now attracts participants from all over California and beyond. We are proud that this event has become one of the premier British car shows in California. In the past few years, we have incurred considerable additional expenses relating to, among other things, forming a corporation, and insurance. Thus, we have made some changes in keeping with the original spirit of the event. For instance, there will be no vendors, program or raffle at this yearbs show. We continue to provide a wonderful experience, the very popular Cameron Highlander Bagpipers and over 400 diverse English cars for your viewing pleasure. Have a Great Day!! Pre-Registration Fee: $20.00 per car Make Check Payable to: BCCC MAIL BY SEPT. 12th to: San Diego British Car Club Council P. O. Box 710131 San Diego, CA 92171-0131 QUESTIONS? Please call San Diego British Car Day Information Line: 760 - 746 - 1458 www.sandiegobritishcarday.org Thank you! From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Tue Aug 19 12:11:46 2008 From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com) Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 14:11:46 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 405 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: No, the Opus distributor can't be retrofitted to points, sorry. When my Spitfire's Opus distributor failed a couple years ago I fitted a Crane ignition and have been happy ever since. There is of course also a Pertronix ignition made to fit into the Opus distributor. Mark 80 Spitfire 1500 Corunna, ON Subject: [TR] Pertronix Failure All, Can points be retrofitted to an electronic ignition? My 78 spitfire has the original Lucas electronic unit that is mounted on the side of the distributor. -- Bob Berger 78 Spitfire St. Louis, MO From my79spitfire at aol.com Tue Aug 19 12:55:15 2008 From: my79spitfire at aol.com (my79spitfire at aol.com) Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 14:55:15 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Pertronix Failure In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CAD04440997B44-698-1849@mblk-d24.sysops.aol.com> Bob, I don't see why not.? As long as you disconnect the electronics, it should easily revert to a points system. Geof Bush '79 Spitfire '81 Canadian Spitfire '73 GT6 MKIII (for CGT6 conversion) Michigan Message: 2 Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 20:26:33 -0500 From: Bob Berger Subject: [Spits] [TR] Pertronix Failure To: Randall , , spitfires-list Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" All, Can points be retrofitted to an electronic ignition? My 78 spitfire has the original Lucas electronic unit that is mounted on the side of the distributor. -- Bob Berger 78 Spitfire St. Louis, MO From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Wed Aug 20 12:29:42 2008 From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com) Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 14:29:42 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Pertronix Failure In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Unfortunately the plate doesn't have the holes in it for a points set-up since it was never intended to have points mounted to it. Mark 80 Spitfire 1500 Corunna, ON Subject: Re: [Spits] Pertronix Failure Bob, I don't see why not.? As long as you disconnect the electronics, it should easily revert to a points system. Geof Bush '79 Spitfire '81 Canadian Spitfire '73 GT6 MKIII (for CGT6 conversion) Michigan From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Aug 21 20:32:18 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 22:32:18 -0400 Subject: [Spits] gas mileage Message-ID: <48ADECF2.20560.BBE7CA5@localhost> Since someone asked recently... I recently accepted a job offer in Manchester, NH, 55 miles from my house. (I always wanted a commute I could do on foot.) I've managed to carpool some days; some days I've had to drive it myself. The Spitfie is the vehicle of choice. This week I started with a full tank, made the trip three times, filled up this evening near home. 7.5 gallons for 330 miles. That comes out to 44mpg. Not bad. Of course, it is almost all running with OD on, no braking to speak of, no serious hills, inotherwords steady cruising at speeds between, oh, frumphsesoof and flmphfsf, keeping up with or slightly slower than traffic most of the time. Saw two speed traps this morning. They didn't pull me over, but there's some fast cars on Rts 3 and 128 sometimes. Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com From arodnitzky at yahoo.com Fri Aug 22 13:27:57 2008 From: arodnitzky at yahoo.com (Adam Rodnitzky) Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 12:27:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] gas mileage Message-ID: <33277.11981.qm@web30406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Wow...44 mpg. I recently drove my 1970 Mk3 (1296cc, single Stromberg, no OD) from Chicago to Iowa City, IA. Averaged 34.1 mpg for the trip. Seems like the OD really makes a difference! Adam '70 Mk3 '94 BMW 318iA From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sun Aug 24 13:09:32 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 13:09:32 -0600 Subject: [Spits] Kastner Cup, Watkins Glen NY Triumph Team 44, TTA 2009 Drive Message-ID: <48B1B1EC.903@tscusa.org> Hi All, Okay I'm BAAAACK!! I have not been watching the lists too closely due to being 200% into this new job, but I note a curious lack of publicity for one of the premier Triumph events of this century. September 5,6,7 2008 at Watkins Glen! Triumph Race cars, Triumph Race drivers, Concours d' Elegance car shows, sight seeing, Lake Seneca, wineries and food, antiques and shopping, Triumph celebrities with sports car and racing journalists from all over the world, the US Vintage Gran Prix, and remembrance of those great drivers and cars of the past. If you are into Triumphs, THIS is the event you should not miss. But if you are into Triumphs, you already know about this epic event. You will see many of the Friends of Triumph racers http://www.fot-racing.com/ who are some of our own marques racing legends, including Kas Kastner and more! I am of course talking about 60 years of memories in one great weekend! Watkins Glen International Raceway is celebrating its 60th birthday - 60 years of Road Racing at the Glen, and featuring the Triumph Marque and vintage racers. Anyone associated with Triumphs and Road Racing will be there for the 3 days of celebrations, including a grand festival and car show hosted by the town of Watkins Glen. If you have not made room reservations yet, you will find the closest rooms are 50 miles or more away, so expect a drive. What does this have to do with the TTA 2009 Charity Drive? Well, John Macartney is scheduled to attend this historic festival event and be in the "Legends Speak" tent at the Grand Prix Festival in the town of Watkins Glen, and at the VIP paddock on the race grounds. I will be joining John as the North American 2009 Drive Coordinator as we officially kick off the Triumph Trans America 2009 Charity Drive in Watkins Glen 4-7 September. The key to the ignition of the TTA Stag starting this drive is only 11 months, and the key to our kickoff is the Watkins Glen 60th celebrations. If you and/or your club have volunteered to support this drive, please stop by and chat with us. If you have worked on the TTA Stag, definitely stop by and sign the TTA poster board as a volunteer!! This will be our next step in planning and preparing for this drive, plus we will have the latest photos and status of the TTA Stag being Prepared by the Illinois Sports Owners Association (look for STTAG Restoration Team Member Irv Korey and others from ISOA to have Stag paint and grease under their fingernails!) See http://www.grandprixfestival.com for details of events on 5 September, http://www.theglen.com for information about the 60 years celebration and races, and for information on the Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive, go to http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/ See you there!! -- Glenn A. Merrell TTA 2009 Charity Drive North American Coordinator Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From dhlocker at comcast.net Sun Aug 24 17:28:34 2008 From: dhlocker at comcast.net (Donald H Locker) Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 19:28:34 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Spitfires in Chelsea Fair parade Message-ID: <48B1EEA2.4010208@comcast.net> I saw two square-tail Spitfires in the Chelsea (MI) Fair parade y'day. Looking good. Maybe someday I'll get my Mk-III in to join you all. Donald. From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Tue Aug 26 16:02:54 2008 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Schwartz) Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 16:02:54 Subject: [Spits] Rusty Panel treatment Message-ID: <3.0.4.16.20080826160254.1eb75b3a@pop.west.cox.net> Well It happened, not on my Triumph, but my 40 ford TR parts hauler. Some inattentive woman swerved right in front of my truck trying to enter a driveway and dragged her explorer over the front of my fender damaging it pretty badly. I may be that it can be pounded out, but I have a line on a fender that looks to be in pretty good physical shape, but has a coating of med surface rust - I would like to use my original fender, since it was rust free, but if I have to get this fender I thought I would see what worked for others What kind of treatment would work best for coating the part after sanding down as much of the rust as I can? Eastwoods rust encapsulator, I have some of that? Remember, this isn't a frame or hidden part, but an exterior body panel - so it would be primed and painted - Thanks - Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) From spitlist at cox.net Mon Aug 25 17:14:40 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 16:14:40 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Rusty Panel treatment In-Reply-To: <3.0.4.16.20080826160254.1eb75b3a@pop.west.cox.net> References: <3.0.4.16.20080826160254.1eb75b3a@pop.west.cox.net> Message-ID: <6D54B262B3644C1DAA85ABF20BD2BDB0@newcomputer> Barry, I would have the thing media blasted to remove all the rust. There is a lot more metal in those old vehicles than you find in new cars. After all the rust is blasted away, treat it with a good epoxy primer to seal it against the elements because it will quickly attract rust from the coastal climate down there. Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Barry Schwartz Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 4:03 PM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Rusty Panel treatment Well It happened, not on my Triumph, but my 40 ford TR parts hauler. Some inattentive woman swerved right in front of my truck trying to enter a driveway and dragged her explorer over the front of my fender damaging it pretty badly. I may be that it can be pounded out, but I have a line on a fender that looks to be in pretty good physical shape, but has a coating of med surface rust - I would like to use my original fender, since it was rust free, but if I have to get this fender I thought I would see what worked for others What kind of treatment would work best for coating the part after sanding down as much of the rust as I can? Eastwoods rust encapsulator, I have some of that? Remember, this isn't a frame or hidden part, but an exterior body panel - so it would be primed and painted - Thanks - Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From tedtsimx at bright.net Tue Aug 26 15:46:06 2008 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 17:46:06 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Warning - major commercial content Message-ID: <48B4799E.30405@bright.net> Greetings list. We just bought a load of Spitfires and stuff. (stuff is good). All items were stored inside in dry storage for the past 20 years. Some objects of interest are; 1978 J type OD trans - gears appear good and all parts are present 1 HS2 carb set for '67 on Spit - carbs, linkage and manifold. Carbs appear to have been rebuilt and never run. 1 NEW 1500 short block - block, rods, pistons and crank. We brought a 100 of these into the country about 1986. This is one of them. Still in the original factory packing! 1974 Spit w/33K miles. White and overdrive. Body is extremely solid. Good floors and trunk floor. Sitting since driven to its parking place in 1991. We put gas in carb float bowl and it started first time. Details on request. NASS first (eBay second) Thanks for your time. Ted -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 From nmoseley at dccnet.com Tue Aug 26 21:28:23 2008 From: nmoseley at dccnet.com (Nick Moseley) Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 20:28:23 -0700 Subject: [Spits] FW: Flywheel pilot Bushing size? Message-ID: <000001c907f5$038ddae0$6400a8c0@yourb27fb1c401> Sorry for the cross post all. Has anyone had this problem? Do I have the wrong part from the supplier, or a strange crank? I tried to put the flywheel pilot bushing into the crank. No go! The new pilot bushing I have is .75 in. outside diameter. The aperture in the end of the crank is about .65in. outside diameter. This bushing fits well into another crank I have sitting around. Vickie Brit lists the same bushing for all Spits, 62-80, so what's going on, how and why is this different?! This crank came with this engine, it was all assembled but in need of a rebuild, when I got it. Many thanks for all suggestions Nick Moseley Metro Vancouver B.C. From nmoseley at dccnet.com Tue Aug 26 23:16:07 2008 From: nmoseley at dccnet.com (Nick Moseley) Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 22:16:07 -0700 Subject: [Spits] [spitfire-enthusiast] FW: Flywheel pilot Bushing size? In-Reply-To: References: <000001c907f5$038ddae0$6400a8c0@yourb27fb1c401> Message-ID: Thanks John L and Doug H! John got it. It seems I can't follow simple directions. Pilot bushing _then_ flywheel you say?!!! Yes, rushed outside, (still raining), took off flywheel, installed bushing, replaced flywheel, torqued bolts, installed and centred clutch pressure plate and disk. Done, what a relief. Thank you! Nick Moseley From ljvaughan at pldi.net Wed Aug 27 20:01:17 2008 From: ljvaughan at pldi.net (Larry Vaughan) Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 21:01:17 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Grommets Message-ID: <48B606ED.3090901@pldi.net> I finished stripping down my Spifire tub last night. The heater had a mouse nest in the fan and a mud dobber nest in one hose. I found the steering column brace had almost pulled free of the firewall. I can fix all that but most of the rubber grommets and plugs were missing or torn. The flap for the heater fresh air wasn't too bad till I scraped it off with a putty knife and found out it wasn't glued on. Anyone know of a supplier for the rubber grommets, plugs and flaps? Larry From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Thu Aug 28 06:31:11 2008 From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 08:31:11 -0400 Subject: [Spits] cleaning electrical bullet connectors In-Reply-To: Message-ID: In terms of cleaning the lucar connector sleeves, there is a great lucar connector cleaning brush made by GEM Enterprises, www.gem-enterprises.net/page3.html. I have been using one of these brushes for close to 10 years now on both my Spitfire and MGB. If the lucar connector is still in good condition, but just dirty, these are the cat's meow in my opinion. Randall, I do believe all TRs used bullet connectors. I know my son's 76 TR7 has lots of them. And you're right, it's a good idea to have a number of these lucar connector sleeves on hand because sometimes the problem is the metal has broken within the rubber sleeve. Mark Subject: Re: [TR] cleaning electrical bullet connectors > I don't have much time at the moment to replace all the electrical connectors on the GT6, let alone the whole > wiring harness. But I've been having some of the connectors get fritzy. Is there a preferred way of minimizing > future unintentional disconnect events? In general, I polish away any corrosion I can reach with a Scotch-Brite pad or similar. Then bend as necessary to get a good, firm mechanical connection; and apply a light coat of some suitable material to attempt to keep future oxidation away. Not sure if the GT6 uses bullet connectors; but sometimes the bullet sleeves are simply broken inside and must be replaced. It can be difficult to tell, since the outer vinyl sleeve will shrink and grab the bullet at the edge of the sleeve. So, I make sure to push the bullet well inside the sleeve, and then check (by tugging gently on the wire) that it's held firmly by the metal contact inside the sleeve. If there is any play at all, the sleeve should be replaced, IMO. Arguably, sleeves are cheap enough (under $1 @ British Wiring) to just replace whenever there is any doubt Randall From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Thu Aug 28 12:14:23 2008 From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 14:14:23 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Grommets In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I attended VTR's NATC in Ypsilanti a couple weeks ago and TRF was there pushing the flesh. They of course had a limited display but they did have a large assortment of rubber grommets and plugs there. Also, I did buy a lot of plugs from them this past winter while rebuilding my Spitfire. Funny, I too found a mouse nest and several mud dobber nests during the tear down. Mark 80 Spitfire 1500 Subject: [Spits] Grommets To: spitfires at autox.team.net I finished stripping down my Spitfire tub last night. The heater had a mouse nest in the fan and a mud dobber nest in one hose. I found the steering column brace had almost pulled free of the firewall. I can fix all that but most of the rubber grommets and plugs were missing or torn. The flap for the heater fresh air wasn't too bad till I scraped it off with a putty knife and found out it wasn't glued on. Anyone know of a supplier for the rubber grommets, plugs and flaps? Larry From bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk Thu Aug 28 13:46:57 2008 From: bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk (Bill Davies) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 20:46:57 +0100 Subject: [Spits] Grommets In-Reply-To: <48B606ED.3090901@pldi.net> Message-ID: <20080828193602.C7FEE187647@autox.team.net> > -----Original Message----- > From: spitfires-bounces+bill=rarebits4classics.co.uk at autox.team.net > [mailto:spitfires-bounces+bill=rarebits4classics.co.uk at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Larry Vaughan > > The flap for the heater fresh air wasn't too bad till I scraped it off > with a putty knife and found out it wasn't glued on. > > Anyone know of a supplier for the rubber grommets, plugs and flaps? The heater drain flap is a push-fit into a slot in the bodywork, there should be no need for glue. As far as I am aware, the flap has not been reproduced by any manufacturer, at least not on the British side of the Atlantic. I have the flaps earmarked as a new product for this winter, let me know if you find a source in the meantime as I've no desire to invest time and money in re-inventing the wheel! Buying a few hundred at a time from another supplier would be a better option than commissioning a batch of thousands, Cheers, Bill. Rarebits4classics .......just what you've been looking for PO Box 1232 Calne Wiltshire SN11 8WA United Kingdom http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk From spitlist at cox.net Thu Aug 28 15:55:23 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 14:55:23 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Grommets In-Reply-To: <20080828193602.C7FEE187647@autox.team.net> References: <48B606ED.3090901@pldi.net> <20080828193602.C7FEE187647@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Flaps? I don't need no stinking flaps. Both my Spits have a drain tube that routes the water in front of the ledge instead of into it. Now the gaiter that terminates the end of the curved tube is another matter. Those things are quite dear and also (I believe) have never been reproduced. Joe Curry -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Davies Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 12:47 PM To: 'Larry Vaughan'; spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] Grommets > -----Original Message----- > From: spitfires-bounces+bill=rarebits4classics.co.uk at autox.team.net > [mailto:spitfires-bounces+bill=rarebits4classics.co.uk at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Larry Vaughan > > The flap for the heater fresh air wasn't too bad till I scraped it off > with a putty knife and found out it wasn't glued on. > > Anyone know of a supplier for the rubber grommets, plugs and flaps? The heater drain flap is a push-fit into a slot in the bodywork, there should be no need for glue. As far as I am aware, the flap has not been reproduced by any manufacturer, at least not on the British side of the Atlantic. I have the flaps earmarked as a new product for this winter, let me know if you find a source in the meantime as I've no desire to invest time and money in re-inventing the wheel! Buying a few hundred at a time from another supplier would be a better option than commissioning a batch of thousands, Cheers, Bill. Rarebits4classics .......just what you've been looking for PO Box 1232 Calne Wiltshire SN11 8WA United Kingdom http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From doug at dougbraun.com Thu Aug 28 17:26:23 2008 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 16:26:23 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] cleaning electrical bullet connectors In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <910452.7383.qm@web604.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Possibly you could also use a small rifle-cleaning brush to clean those connectors? BTW, the metal piece in those 4-way female connector blocks tends to crack. I highly recommend replacing them if there is any indication of an electrical problem in their circuit. I've replaced at least half a dozen over the years in my Spit. Buy a bunch so you will always have a few spares on hand. Doug Braun '72 Spit --- mark.jones at exxonmobil.com wrote: > In terms of cleaning the lucar connector sleeves, > there is a great lucar > connector cleaning brush made by GEM Enterprises, > www.gem-enterprises.net/page3.html. I have been > using one of these brushes > for close to 10 years now on both my Spitfire and > MGB. If the lucar > connector is still in good condition, but just > dirty, these are the cat's > meow in my opinion. From doug at dougbraun.com Thu Aug 28 17:44:17 2008 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 16:44:17 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] Grommets In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <357024.43507.qm@web601.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I wish somebody would reproduce the drain tube. Without it, the rainwater pools on the firewall shelf and leaks through the hole where the accelerator cable goes. Triumph should have put that hole on a raised boss so water could not drip through it. I can't believer they allowed such a leaky design to be produced for so many years... Doug --- Joe Curry wrote: > Flaps? I don't need no stinking flaps. Both my > Spits have a drain tube > that routes the water in front of the ledge instead > of into it. > > Now the gaiter that terminates the end of the curved > tube is another matter. > Those things are quite dear and also (I believe) > have never been reproduced. From douglashansen at yahoo.com Thu Aug 28 17:51:17 2008 From: douglashansen at yahoo.com (Spitfire4) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 16:51:17 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] electrical connectors Message-ID: <434434.30288.qm@web52212.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Anyone else have a problem with the large spade at the generator burning the connection? Douglas A. Hansen www.1147cc.com ----- Original Message ---- From: Doug Braun To: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com; triumphs at autox.team.net; tr3driver at ca.rr.com; jimmuller at rcn.com; spitfires at autox.team.net; tr8 at mercury.lcs.mit.edu Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 7:26:23 PM Subject: Re: [Spits] cleaning electrical bullet connectors Possibly you could also use a small rifle-cleaning brush to clean those connectors? BTW, the metal piece in those 4-way female connector blocks tends to crack. I highly recommend replacing them if there is any indication of an electrical problem in their circuit. I've replaced at least half a dozen over the years in my Spit. Buy a bunch so you will always have a few spares on hand. Doug Braun '72 Spit --- mark.jones at exxonmobil.com wrote: > In terms of cleaning the lucar connector sleeves, > there is a great lucar > connector cleaning brush made by GEM Enterprises, > www.gem-enterprises.net/page3.html. I have been > using one of these brushes > for close to 10 years now on both my Spitfire and > MGB. If the lucar > connector is still in good condition, but just > dirty, these are the cat's > meow in my opinion. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From rbgosling at googlemail.com Fri Aug 29 01:49:44 2008 From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 08:49:44 +0100 Subject: [Spits] cleaning electrical bullet connectors In-Reply-To: <910452.7383.qm@web604.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <910452.7383.qm@web604.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <9f2527520808290049o1225787cp26cd3c9a9b8d91ba@mail.gmail.com> Frankly I wouldn't even think of cleaning an old bullet connector block. Every old one I ever have to have any dealings with gets replaced immediately, without question. They're not exactly expensive. Richard From red_tr250 at yahoo.com Fri Aug 29 07:54:39 2008 From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 06:54:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] GT6 MK1 Front Bumper Install Message-ID: <983894.92246.qm@web43144.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Hi Guys & Gals, Trying to install a front bumper on the wife's GT6 MK1. I notice 2 holes in the bonnet hinge(one on top of the other)? I also have several over riders. Looking at the over riders, I notice different size over riders & different locations for install bolts. It would appear that some of the over riders may "want" to install in the upper of the 2 holes in the bonnet hinge. Is this correct? Were changes made in the over riders over the years? Thanks in advance, Todd Bermudez 1968 GT6 MK1 RHD Cincy, OH # 597 From doug at dougbraun.com Fri Aug 29 09:13:00 2008 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 08:13:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] cleaning electrical bullet connectors In-Reply-To: <9f2527520808290049o1225787cp26cd3c9a9b8d91ba@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <550571.94688.qm@web602.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> You are 100% correct. EVERY new Spitfire owner should immediately go buy a dozen of them. Doug --- Richard Gosling wrote: > Frankly I wouldn't even think of cleaning an old > bullet connector block. > Every old one I ever have to have any dealings with > gets replaced > immediately, without question. They're not exactly > expensive. From spitlist at cox.net Fri Aug 29 10:37:46 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 09:37:46 -0700 Subject: [Spits] GT6 MK1 Front Bumper Install In-Reply-To: <983894.92246.qm@web43144.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <983894.92246.qm@web43144.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2403EC1D890E4940B835DB426D654D3E@newcomputer> The smaller overriders go on Mk1 and Mk2 Spitfires. The GT6 Mk1 are longer and extend further down below the horizontal bar. There have been places through the years that apparently don't understand this and have sold the wrong overriders for particular applications. My son was trying to replace his Mk2 Spit overriders and wound up getting 2 for a GT6 Mk1. They would not take them back and as a result I have both of them unused. If you need them I can make you a great deal. Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Todd Bermudez Sent: Friday, August 29, 2008 6:55 AM To: NASS Spitfire; Spitfire List Subject: [Spits] GT6 MK1 Front Bumper Install Hi Guys & Gals, Trying to install a front bumper on the wife's GT6 MK1. I notice 2 holes in the bonnet hinge(one on top of the other)? I also have several over riders. Looking at the over riders, I notice different size over riders & different locations for install bolts. It would appear that some of the over riders may "want" to install in the upper of the 2 holes in the bonnet hinge. Is this correct? Were changes made in the over riders over the years? Thanks in advance, Todd Bermudez 1968 GT6 MK1 RHD Cincy, OH # 597 Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From Mackmi at usa.redcross.org Fri Aug 29 10:51:33 2008 From: Mackmi at usa.redcross.org (Mackmi at usa.redcross.org) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 12:51:33 -0400 Subject: [Spits] cleaning electrical bullet connectors In-Reply-To: <550571.94688.qm@web602.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <32B95304CB44EF4E81483EEA6D05978201BE9505@brnyrchex2.bio.ri.redcross.net> ..and if your don't care about originality, just function; then solder the wires together, and shrink-tube over the joint. Mike Mack 79 Spit 70 GT6+ 74 VW Thing -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces+mackmi=usa.redcross.org at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces+mackmi=usa.redcross.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Doug Braun Sent: Friday, August 29, 2008 11:13 AM To: Richard Gosling; Doug Braun Cc: spitfires at autox.team.net; tr3driver at ca.rr.com; triumphs at autox.team.net; tr8 at mercury.lcs.mit.edu; mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Subject: Re: [Spits] cleaning electrical bullet connectors You are 100% correct. EVERY new Spitfire owner should immediately go buy a dozen of them. Doug --- Richard Gosling wrote: > Frankly I wouldn't even think of cleaning an old > bullet connector block. > Every old one I ever have to have any dealings with > gets replaced > immediately, without question. They're not exactly > expensive. Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Fri Aug 29 11:38:14 2008 From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 13:38:14 -0400 Subject: [Spits] cleaning electrical bullet connectors In-Reply-To: Message-ID: That would make it rather hard to separate the bonnet from the car without cutting wires. Mark 73 MGBGT 76 TR7 80 Spitfire From: Subject: Re: [Spits] cleaning electrical bullet connectors ..and if your don't care about originality, just function; then solder the wires together, and shrink-tube over the joint. Mike Mack 79 Spit 70 GT6+ 74 VW Thing From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Fri Aug 29 11:59:20 2008 From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 13:59:20 -0400 Subject: [Spits] cleaning electrical bullet connectors In-Reply-To: <32B95304CB44EF4E81483EEA6D05978201BE9506@brnyrchex2.bio.ri.redcross.net> Message-ID: While true, you don't have to take the bonnet off too often, eliminating connectors by soldering wires together just seems a bit drastic to me; maybe because I have been fortunate to have had only minor electrical issues. I have found, and as Richard and Doug have mentioned, cleaning connections and replacing broken connectors, eliminates electrical problems. There is nothing inherently wrong with the lucar connectors and the Lucas wiring, but after 20+ yrs of service a bit of preventative maintenance is probably in order. Mark To 08/29/2008 cc 01:44 PM Subject RE: cleaning electrical bullet connectors How often do you do this? Usually, only for engine removal or full restoration. Wires can be resoldered together. My suggestion, eliminated the problematic connectors completely. Mike -----Original Message----- That would make it rather hard to separate the bonnet from the car without cutting wires. Mark From: Subject: Re: [Spits] cleaning electrical bullet connectors ..and if your don't care about originality, just function; then solder the wires together, and shrink-tube over the joint. Mike Mack From douglashansen at yahoo.com Fri Aug 29 12:02:19 2008 From: douglashansen at yahoo.com (Spitfire4) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 11:02:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] cleaning electrical bullet connectors Message-ID: <150939.15655.qm@web52209.mail.re2.yahoo.com> on the bonnet I used an all weather single quick connect from summit I did solder the pins Douglas A. Hansen www.1147cc.com ----- Original Message ---- From: "mark.jones at exxonmobil.com" To: spitfires at autox.team.net; Mackmi at usa.redcross.org Sent: Friday, August 29, 2008 1:38:14 PM Subject: Re: [Spits] cleaning electrical bullet connectors That would make it rather hard to separate the bonnet from the car without cutting wires. Mark 73 MGBGT 76 TR7 80 Spitfire From: Subject: Re: [Spits] cleaning electrical bullet connectors ..and if your don't care about originality, just function; then solder the wires together, and shrink-tube over the joint. Mike Mack 79 Spit 70 GT6+ 74 VW Thing _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive