From doug at dougbraun.com  Sun Sep  2 18:02:17 2007
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 17:02:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] Weird engine idle
In-Reply-To: <000801c7e8ee$57a1caf0$1342a8c0@semperon3400>
Message-ID: <192242.3586.qm@web614.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Has anyone ever re-bushed a Spit distributor to
fix sloppy timing?  Can new bushings be gotten?

Doug Braun
'72 Spit

--- "Clark W. Nicholls" <clarkfot at cwnicholls.net>
wrote:

> Are you sure there's no spark only on that cylinder?
> Check the points gap too.
> Try it on different dist cam lobes, see if it
> changes.
> If the distributor is worn and the shaft wobbles it
> could be worse on that
> one cylinder perhaps.
> I solved my worn distributor by installing the
> crane/Allison solid state
> system. 
> Let us know!

From jbaustian at cox.net  Mon Sep  3 12:22:04 2007
From: jbaustian at cox.net (Jim Baustian)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 13:22:04 -0500
Subject: [Spits] Weird engine idle
Message-ID: <C2FBD9DF-CE8F-4888-8C37-F5173DEE327E@cox.net>

There is an answer to worn distributor bushings as well as correction  
of all distributor problems. I have used them for a Delco Remy  
distributor in our GT6 and the Lucas distributor in our MGB.  
Experience has been good. url is:
advanceddistributors.com
Jim Baustian

From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com  Tue Sep  4 05:58:22 2007
From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com)
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 07:58:22 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Weird engine idle
In-Reply-To: <mailman.21.1188842401.4002.spitfires@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF9B6890EA.A782AE47-ON8525734C.0041771D-8525734C.0041BF9D@exxonmobil.com>

Found the problem.  Two years ago I had the HS4s rebuilt, including teflon
bushings on the throttle valve.  While looking over the car Friday I found
one of the teflon bushing has completely out place, one big air leak.
Looks like I need to get the throttle bushing rebuilt again, but this time
in brass, not teflon.


                                                                                                                                       
                      spitfires-request at aut                                                                                            
                      ox.team.net                    To:      spitfires at autox.team.net                                                 
                      Sent by:                       cc:                                                                               
                      spitfires-bounces at aut          Subject: Spitfires Digest, Vol 1, Issue 48                                        
                      ox.team.net                                                                                                      
                                                                                                                                       
                                                                                                                                       
                                                                                                                                       
                      09/03/2007 02:00 PM                                                                                              
                      Please respond to                                                                                                
                      spitfires                                                                                                        
                                                                                                                                       




--- "Clark W. Nicholls" <clarkfot at cwnicholls.net>
wrote:

> Are you sure there's no spark only on that cylinder?
> Check the points gap too.
> Try it on different dist cam lobes, see if it
> changes.
> If the distributor is worn and the shaft wobbles it
> could be worse on that
> one cylinder perhaps.
> I solved my worn distributor by installing the
> crane/Allison solid state
> system.
> Let us know!

From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com  Tue Sep  4 06:02:59 2007
From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com)
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 08:02:59 -0400
Subject: [Spits] distributor rebushed
In-Reply-To: <mailman.21.1188842401.4002.spitfires@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF3C5C2C0C.DC48FC00-ON8525734C.0041C747-8525734C.00422BE7@exxonmobil.com>

I had my distributor rebuilt (including rebushed and rebuilt the vacuum
advance) last winter, made a big difference in how the car performs.  The
guy I used has since retired, but I have several lbc friends who have used
Jeff at Advanced Distributors with great success,
www.advanceddistributors.com.

Mark
80 Spitfire 1500
73 MGBGT


From: Doug Braun <doug at dougbraun.com>
Subject: Re: [Spits] Weird engine idle
To: Spitfires at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <192242.3586.qm at web614.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Has anyone ever re-bushed a Spit distributor to fix sloppy timing?  Can new
bushings be gotten?

Doug Braun
'72 Spit

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Tue Sep 11 18:26:54 2007
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 20:26:54 -0400
Subject: [Spits] The Best Car
Message-ID: <001b01c7f4d3$a0284920$92107247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

Not sure how to describe "worst", but the best car I have ever driven/owned is
a 1968 Ford Mustang  hardtop, 289 CI, auto and steering, took it in trade in
1971 for $500.00 and have owned since 1971, I have replaced the starter and
battery in 36 years, it is right to this day a very pretty car and all
original, the T/R 3 is nice, but, two completely different cars, I also have a
67 Mustang with a "solid Bench front seat (rare), just not as solid as the 68
and I have no idea why. "FT"

From mmilkevitch at yahoo.com  Sat Sep 15 16:24:06 2007
From: mmilkevitch at yahoo.com (Matthew Milkevitch)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 15:24:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] Car Covers
Message-ID: <946042.43940.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hello Listers:
   
  I hope everyone had the chance to enjoy their cars today.  The weather here in the Philadelphia PA area has been very nice today.
   
  I am currently contemplating purchasing another car cover for my Spitfire, since the car has to "live" outside.  I've had several covers for this car, and all have fallen apart within 1 year.  Has anyone has better success with a car cover?  If so, what brand did you purchase?
   
  Thanks for your help........
   
  Matt Milkevitch
  '77 Spitfire

From bill at gingerich.us  Sat Sep 15 18:12:14 2007
From: bill at gingerich.us (Bill Gingerich)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 19:12:14 -0500
Subject: [Spits] Clutch questions
Message-ID: <000901c7f7f6$3cd50f40$057e1340@shack2>

My '74 Spitfire has been sitting for a few months because of that all too
common problem where the clutch drags even though the pedal is completely
depressed.  Today I decided to see if I could find the reason.  After
pulling the transmission cover, I discovered that the pivot pin had fallen
out.  Aha, I thought, this will be easy.  I was able to put a 5/16" bolt
through the hole without too much problem.  I checked the clutch and still
had the problem.  So I checked the pedal arm hole, and found the pin was
worn.  I replaced that, and still have the problem.  The pedal arm hole is
slightly out of round, but not a lot.  The clutch master and slave cylinders
were rebuilt in 2002, and have been fine to date.  No evidence of leaks,
etc.  I bled the clutch again, and made sure the slave cylinder was tight.
Now I'm running out of ideas on things to check.  One of the things I've
noticed is that the clutch pedal stops part way to the floor.  I can't
remember if that is normal.  I tried to find a spec for the travel in the
plunger arm, but couldn't.  I'm about ready to order new master and slave
cylinders, but I'd rather understand the problem first.  Anyone have some
ideas on what to check?  TIA, as always.

 

Bill Gingerich

'74 Spitfire "Lazarus" who needs resurrection again

NASS #133

OKC, OK

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Sep 15 19:46:46 2007
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J. Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 19:46:46 -0600
Subject: [Spits] Clutch questions
In-Reply-To: <000901c7f7f6$3cd50f40$057e1340@shack2>
References: <000901c7f7f6$3cd50f40$057e1340@shack2>
Message-ID: <46EC8B06.7070009@bradakis.com>

Are you sure it is the clutch and not a thrust washer problem?

mjb.

From spitlist at cox.net  Sat Sep 15 19:57:44 2007
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 18:57:44 -0700
Subject: [Spits] Car Covers
In-Reply-To: <946042.43940.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <946042.43940.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000e01c7f804$fac46100$2202a8c0@newcomputer>

I am assuming that you are expecting to cover the car to keep the rain and
other sorts of precipitation off the car.  If that is your intention, I
think it is a fool's errand.  Most car covers are designed to keep the sun
and dust off and are porous so that moisture goes through them.

Covering a car with a non-porous cover will trap moisture under the cover
and encourage rust.

There is no substitute for a good garage or carport to keep moisture off a
car.  

But if you are really just wanting something to keep the sun off, I have
found the ones from Moss work pretty well.  I have 2 of them and have been
very happy with both of them.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Matthew Milkevitch
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2007 3:24 PM
To: Spitfires at autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] Car Covers

Hello Listers:
   
  I hope everyone had the chance to enjoy their cars today.  The weather
here in the Philadelphia PA area has been very nice today.
   
  I am currently contemplating purchasing another car cover for my Spitfire,
since the car has to "live" outside.  I've had several covers for this car,
and all have fallen apart within 1 year.  Has anyone has better success with
a car cover?  If so, what brand did you purchase?
   
  Thanks for your help........
   
  Matt Milkevitch
  '77 Spitfire
_______________________________________________
Spitfires mailing list
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

From bill at gingerich.us  Sat Sep 15 20:16:38 2007
From: bill at gingerich.us (Bill Gingerich)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 21:16:38 -0500
Subject: [Spits] Clutch questions
In-Reply-To: <46EC8B06.7070009@bradakis.com>
References: <000901c7f7f6$3cd50f40$057e1340@shack2>
	<46EC8B06.7070009@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <002701c7f807$9d955ea0$057e1340@shack2>

Mark,

Wouldn't dropped thrust washers cause the oil pressure to be near zero?
Mine is 80 PSI at idle cold.  I will try to put an indicator on the crank
pulley to be sure.

I also believe I'm not getting full travel out of the clutch pedal.

Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J. Bradakis
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2007 8:47 PM
To: Spitlist
Subject: Re: [Spits] Clutch questions

Are you sure it is the clutch and not a thrust washer problem?

mjb.

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sat Sep 15 20:41:47 2007
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 22:41:47 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Car Covers
In-Reply-To: <946042.43940.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <46EC5FAB.28297.52FFE5@localhost>

On 15 Sep 2007 at 15:24, Matthew Milkevitch wrote:

> Has anyone has better success with a car
> cover?  If so, what brand did you purchase?

When I bought my GT6 some years ago I had to move the Spitfire out 
the garage and "store" it in the driveway.  So I bought a cover from 
California Car Cover, their spiffy ultra-high-tech super-fabric.  It 
was listed as waterproof but porous, and blocked UV.  Even better, 
when I called to ask the guy on the phone said it would fold up and 
fit in a shoebox.  It turned out to be everything they said it would 
be.  It kept the car dry and clean.  It fit both the Spitfire and GT6 
even though I chose one spec'ed for the GT6.  It lasted four or five 
years too.  Eventually it succumbed to UV so I replaced it with a 
cover from TRF.  That one, made by Covercraft or something similar, 
has been a disappointment.  It is thick and bulky, doesn't seem to 
keep out either dust or water, collects water inside the folds at the 
bottom (which would seem to encourage rust), and doesn't fit very 
well.  It builds up static charge so readily that I grew leary of 
putting it on or off the car.  I've had it maybe two years, but for 
the last six months it has been sitting in a folded heap at the head 
of the driveway.  If the car is going to get wet anyway I'd rather 
let the rain roll off and evaporate than be collected into an 
artificial puddle right underneath each bumper.  Maybe I'll clean it 
and put it back on the car for the winter.  But I intend to replace 
it soon with another high-tech one from California Car Cover, either 
this winter or next spring.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+



-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.19/1008 - Release Date: 9/14/2007 8:59 AM

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Sep 15 21:52:57 2007
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J. Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 21:52:57 -0600
Subject: [Spits] Clutch questions
In-Reply-To: <002701c7f807$9d955ea0$057e1340@shack2>
References: <000901c7f7f6$3cd50f40$057e1340@shack2>
	<46EC8B06.7070009@bradakis.com>
	<002701c7f807$9d955ea0$057e1340@shack2>
Message-ID: <46ECA899.80306@bradakis.com>

>Wouldn't dropped thrust washers cause the oil pressure to be near zero?
>
No, the oil pressure won't be affected by the lack of thrust washers.

mjb.

From sagreenwood at earthlink.net  Sun Sep 16 23:47:29 2007
From: sagreenwood at earthlink.net (Stuart Greenwood)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 22:47:29 -0700
Subject: [Spits] Car Covers
Message-ID: <410-22007911754729657@earthlink.net>

As somebody already said you don't want a cover that can't breath otherwise the car will stay wet.
In my experience the best material is one called sunbreja This has a 5 year guarantee. I have had one for 6 years and used it everyday when the car is parked all day in the sun at work or on the drive at home. For the first 4 years it didn't leak water when it was raining and now it just lets a little through .The only thing that fails is the stitching . After 4 years I sent it back under warrantee and they re-stitched it and also replaced some panels that had worn... all for  $13 including postage. It's a thick cover so it doesn't roll up small.  I've just bought a new cover made from Weathershield  for another of my cars which is much thinner and therefore rolls up small. I'm thinking I should have stuck with Sunbeja but the sales man said I would like it.... we'll see
Like everything else don't buy a cheap cover.  For a good cover you are looking at $300.

sagreenwood at earthlink.net
San Diego
71 Spitfire Mk IV, 71 Stag Mk I, 80 TR8 Federal

Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 15:24:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Matthew Milkevitch <mmilkevitch at yahoo.com>
Subject: [Spits] Car Covers
To: Spitfires at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <946042.43940.qm at web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hello Listers:
I hope everyone had the chance to enjoy their cars today. The weather here in the Philadelphia PA area has been very nice today.
I am currently contemplating purchasing another car cover for my Spitfire, since the car has to "live" outside. I've had several covers for this car, and all have fallen apart within 1 year. Has anyone has better success with a car cover? If so, what brand did you purchase?
Thanks for your help........
Matt Milkevitch
'77 Spitfire

From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Tue Sep 18 08:29:56 2007
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 07:29:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] Slightly OT: New clothing line
Message-ID: <457598.47346.qm@web83102.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Check out this link:

http://www.autofieldguide.com/dp/auto/newsmonger.cfm?id=1539

Doug
--
dmitchel at sbcglobal.net

From maya2blue at juno.com  Tue Sep 18 11:40:36 2007
From: maya2blue at juno.com (Harve Thorn)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 12:40:36 -0500
Subject: [Spits] Spitfire hardtop tie bar mountings needed
Message-ID: <20070918.124036.1632.3.maya2blue@juno.com>

I am looking for the tie bar mountings used to mount a factory hardtop
when the soft-top is not fitted.

Part numbers are 624874(RH) and 624873(LH)  (long tie bars vs. the short
ones used when the soft-top is fitted)

See them at http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/spitfire/images/199a.gif

Many tks any help!

Harve Thorn
NASS #79

From doug at dougbraun.com  Tue Sep 18 18:37:18 2007
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 17:37:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] Spitfire hardtop tie bar mountings needed
In-Reply-To: <20070918.124036.1632.3.maya2blue@juno.com>
Message-ID: <600011.43904.qm@web604.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Good luck.  Those parts are ultra-rare.  I have never
seen any.

For that application, I use the short bars along
with 3-1/2" long bolts that will let the bars reach
the mounting holes on the body.  It does look a bit
improvised, but the hardtop is much more secure and
less squeaky with them installed.

Doug Braun
'72 Spit

--- Harve Thorn <maya2blue at juno.com> wrote:

> I am looking for the tie bar mountings used to mount
> a factory hardtop
> when the soft-top is not fitted.
> 
> Part numbers are 624874(RH) and 624873(LH)  (long
> tie bars vs. the short
> ones used when the soft-top is fitted)
> 
> See them at
> http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/spitfire/images/199a.gif
> 
> Many tks any help!
> 
> Harve Thorn
> NASS #79
> _______________________________________________
> Spitfires mailing list
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

From JStasyszen at odmhsas.org  Wed Sep 19 09:16:13 2007
From: JStasyszen at odmhsas.org (Stasyszen, Jerry)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 10:16:13 -0500
Subject: [Spits] Spitfire hardtop tie bar mountings needed
In-Reply-To: <600011.43904.qm@web604.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <20070918.124036.1632.3.maya2blue@juno.com>
	<600011.43904.qm@web604.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <E18D34E83A849E4ABA7CAFD69251E6410A49205C@dmhsasmail.odmhsas.org>

I bought some from Vicky Brit


Thanks
Jerry Stasyszen

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Doug Braun
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 7:37 PM
To: Harve Thorn; nass at yahoogroups.com; NASS-club at yahoogroups.com;
spitfires at autox.team.net; spitfire-enthusiast at yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Spits] Spitfire hardtop tie bar mountings needed

Good luck.  Those parts are ultra-rare.  I have never seen any.

For that application, I use the short bars along with 3-1/2" long bolts
that will let the bars reach the mounting holes on the body.  It does
look a bit improvised, but the hardtop is much more secure and less
squeaky with them installed.

Doug Braun
'72 Spit

--- Harve Thorn <maya2blue at juno.com> wrote:

> I am looking for the tie bar mountings used to mount a factory hardtop

> when the soft-top is not fitted.
>
> Part numbers are 624874(RH) and 624873(LH)  (long tie bars vs. the
> short ones used when the soft-top is fitted)
>
> See them at
> http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/spitfire/images/199a.gif
>
> Many tks any help!
>
> Harve Thorn
> NASS #79
> _______________________________________________
> Spitfires mailing list
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
_______________________________________________
Spitfires mailing list
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

From doug at dougbraun.com  Wed Sep 19 10:11:10 2007
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 09:11:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] Spitfire hardtop tie bar mountings needed
In-Reply-To: <E18D34E83A849E4ABA7CAFD69251E6410A49205C@dmhsasmail.odmhsas.org>
Message-ID: <295339.41985.qm@web601.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

When?  I looked at their latest catalog and a
5-year-old one I had lying around, and they did not
list the long ones, only the short ones.

Doug


--- "Stasyszen, Jerry" <JStasyszen at odmhsas.org> wrote:

> I bought some from Vicky Brit 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> Jerry Stasyszen

From jerry.stasyszen at sbcglobal.net  Thu Sep 20 12:32:24 2007
From: jerry.stasyszen at sbcglobal.net (Jerry Stasyszen)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 12:32:24 -0600
Subject: [Spits] Spitfire hardtop tie bar mountings needed
In-Reply-To: <295339.41985.qm@web601.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <002401c7fbb4$97ca4890$6401a8c0@greeper>

Mine are the short ones, sorry. 

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Doug Braun
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 10:11 AM
To: Stasyszen, Jerry; Doug Braun; Harve Thorn; nass at yahoogroups.com;
NASS-club at yahoogroups.com; spitfires at autox.team.net;
spitfire-enthusiast at yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Spits] Spitfire hardtop tie bar mountings needed

When?  I looked at their latest catalog and a
5-year-old one I had lying around, and they did not
list the long ones, only the short ones.

Doug


--- "Stasyszen, Jerry" <JStasyszen at odmhsas.org> wrote:

> I bought some from Vicky Brit 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> Jerry Stasyszen
_______________________________________________
Spitfires mailing list
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.22/1015 - Release Date: 9/18/2007
11:53 AM
 

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.22/1015 - Release Date: 9/18/2007
11:53 AM

From victor at metfilms.com  Tue Sep 18 08:45:57 2007
From: victor at metfilms.com (Victor Michael)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 09:45:57 -0500
Subject: [Spits] My Spit gotta go...
Message-ID: <C3154ED5.D21C%victor@metfilms.com>

My wife and I love this car and have had for quite a few years.
We are sad to see it go, but like a poor dog whose owner has no time to play
with it, we just feel too damn guilty seeing just sit in the garage.

Have a look, pass the word around and get in touch if you're interested!

http://www.vmedge.com/spitfire/

vmichael at vmedge.com

Thanks!

Victor

'77 Spit
-- 

From clarkfot at cwnicholls.net  Mon Sep 24 07:36:37 2007
From: clarkfot at cwnicholls.net (Clark W. Nicholls)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 09:36:37 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Amphicar wanted
Message-ID: <006501c7feaf$f00eeb70$1342a8c0@semperon3400>

And now for something completely different.
 
Is there anyone on these lists having an Amphicar they're willing to part
with?
I know at least one/two of us that has one in custody!
 
The phone is a Connecticut exchange...
Not me, I know nothing more!
 
WANTED: Amphicar Amphibious vehicle, any year or condition except restored.
(860)668-7716
 
Clark
Clark W. Nicholls
"Reality... It's not what you think."

From JStasyszen at odmhsas.org  Mon Sep 24 08:56:36 2007
From: JStasyszen at odmhsas.org (Stasyszen, Jerry)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 09:56:36 -0500
Subject: [Spits] 77 Spitfire
In-Reply-To: <20070924032431.LFOC28177.mta11.adelphia.net@randall>
References: <ca9.18c5ece9.34287c47@aol.com>
	<20070924032431.LFOC28177.mta11.adelphia.net@randall>
Message-ID: <E18D34E83A849E4ABA7CAFD69251E6410A579410@dmhsasmail.odmhsas.org>

I am parting out a 77 Spitfire. I removed the engine and trans but the
rest remains. The body if pretty straight except that it was wrecked but
all the damaged arteas have been meticulously removed. I have new body
parts to for the areas that were cut out. The bonnet has some beginning
rust but the floors are in great shape. This would be a nice buildable
car. I just don't have the time or a mig to weld the body parts back
together. If anyone is interested in parts then email me off list or
call 405-672-9707 in Oklahoma City.


Thanks
Jerry Stasyszen
405-672-9707
Jerry.stasyszen at sbcglobal.net
OKCSpitfire at sbcglobal.net
jstasyszen at odmhsas.org

From maya2blue at juno.com  Tue Sep 25 06:13:27 2007
From: maya2blue at juno.com (Harve Thorn)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 07:13:27 -0500
Subject: [Spits] help on mounting 1500 hardtop needed
Message-ID: <20070925.071327.2872.0.maya2blue@juno.com>

Greetings...

I am mounting my hardtop for the first time and have a few questions :)

A. It appears from various illustrations that the two spacer tubes at the
front mount with the flanged end up - against the hardtop.. Correct?

B. What bolt is needed for the front connection (through the spacer tube)
 I see and read references to both a headed bolt and an all-threaded
bolt. The front bolts that I have are headed. Which is supposed to be
used?

C. I have read several comments re the "underside of the hardtop where it
rests on the read edge."  Apparently the top can damage the paint on the
rear deck. I have the "seals" that are noted in the various catalogs. I
have read that different people have done different things to protect
this area - everything from thicker "seals" to using the "c" shaped
chrome door edge guard molding to trim the bottom edge. Suggestions? 

Many thanks!!

Harve

Harve Thorn
NASS # 79

From ptegler at cablespeed.com  Tue Sep 25 06:35:05 2007
From: ptegler at cablespeed.com (ptegler)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 08:35:05 -0400
Subject: [Spits] >>NASS  help on mounting 1500 hardtop needed
References: <20070925.071327.2872.0.maya2blue@juno.com>
Message-ID: <007501c7ff70$80d4d3c0$1a00000a@delllaptop>

see **** injected in your email below

Paul Tegler  ptegler at cablespeed.com
www.teglerizer.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Harve Thorn" <maya2blue at juno.com>
To: <nass at yahoogroups.com>; <NASS-club at yahoogroups.com>;
<spitfires at autox.team.net>; <spitfire-enthusiast at yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 8:13 AM
Subject: >>NASS help on mounting 1500 hardtop needed


> Greetings...
>
> I am mounting my hardtop for the first time and have a few questions :)
>
> A. It appears from various illustrations that the two spacer tubes at the
> front mount with the flanged end up - against the hardtop.. Correct?
**** correct

>
> B. What bolt is needed for the front connection (through the spacer tube)
>  I see and read references to both a headed bolt and an all-threaded
> bolt. The front bolts that I have are headed. Which is supposed to be
> used?
a headed bolt and flat washer.... be caeful of the length so it doesn't go
too far through and dentth sheet metal of the hardtop

>
> C. I have read several comments re the "underside of the hardtop where it
> rests on the read edge."  Apparently the top can damage the paint on the
> rear deck. I have the "seals" that are noted in the various catalogs. I
> have read that different people have done different things to protect
> this area - everything from thicker "seals" to using the "c" shaped
> chrome door edge guard molding to trim the bottom edge. Suggestions?
*****Just dont crank it down that tight. The stock heavy pads if installed
correctly will stop it from hitting the paint work. I too use the door
chrome edge gaurd just to be safe.

>
> Many thanks!!
>
> Harve
>
> Harve Thorn
> NASS # 79
>
>
> >> To unsubscribe send an empty email to: nass-unsubscribe at yahoogroups.com
> >> NASS Home Site nasshq resources http://www.nasshq.org
> >> Full Membership details: http://www.nasshq.org/docs/memberapp.html
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
>     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/nass/
>
> <*> Your email settings:
>     Individual Email | Traditional
>
> <*> To change settings online go to:
>     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/nass/join
>     (Yahoo! ID required)
>
> <*> To change settings via email:
>     mailto:nass-digest at yahoogroups.com
>     mailto:nass-fullfeatured at yahoogroups.com
>
> <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>     nass-unsubscribe at yahoogroups.com
>
> <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
>     http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

From doug at dougbraun.com  Tue Sep 25 06:34:03 2007
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 05:34:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] help on mounting 1500 hardtop needed
In-Reply-To: <20070925.071327.2872.0.maya2blue@juno.com>
Message-ID: <774825.12911.qm@web612.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- Harve Thorn <maya2blue at juno.com> wrote:

> Greetings...
> 
> I am mounting my hardtop for the first time and have
> a few questions :)
> 
> A. It appears from various illustrations that the
> two spacer tubes at the
> front mount with the flanged end up - against the
> hardtop.. Correct?

Yes.  Don't leave the spacers out- they keep the
gasket from getting totally crushed.

> 
> B. What bolt is needed for the front connection
> (through the spacer tube)
>  I see and read references to both a headed bolt and
> an all-threaded
> bolt. The front bolts that I have are headed. Which
> is supposed to be
> used?

I have original bolts.  They are 2-inch bolts,
all-threaded, with domed heads and pointed on the
other end (to make them easier to install).  They had
a black oxide finish, and the heads were also painted
black.

The exact amount of threads does not matter, as long
as the part that screws into the hardtop has threads. 

> 
> C. I have read several comments re the "underside of
> the hardtop where it
> rests on the read edge."  Apparently the top can
> damage the paint on the
> rear deck. I have the "seals" that are noted in the
> various catalogs. I
> have read that different people have done different
> things to protect
> this area - everything from thicker "seals" to using
> the "c" shaped
> chrome door edge guard molding to trim the bottom
> edge. Suggestions? 

There are supposed to be 4 rubber blocks: two round
the rear bolts, and two sort of trapezoid-shaped ones
just in front if the quarter windows. These can get
compressed with age- assuming they are all present,
you may have to add a later of sheet rubber to them.

In any case, it is very tricky to install the top
without denting the rear deck of the car.  I suggest
putting a towel over the rear deck, setting the
hardtop in place over the towel, attaching the front
bolts, and then lifting the rear of the hardtop up
just enough to pull the towel out.  It helps a lot to
have an attentive, motivated helper or two, not one
that is annoyed because you dragged them away from
their favorite video game...

Doug 

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Sep 25 18:11:56 2007
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 20:11:56 -0400
Subject: [Spits] a new clunking noise
Message-ID: <46F96B8C.32114.1686A2F@localhost>

Just when I thought it was safe to put the wrenches away...

My Spitfire has a new sound.  When I turn a corner at anything more 
than walking speed I hear a clunk clunk clunk, maybe 3 to 5 clunks 
right behind me which sound like something bouncing across a metallic 
floor or swinging against a metallic wall.  Except there isn't 
anything to swing or bounce, nothing loose underneath nor under the 
spare tire.

I fully expect one or more of you to say it is something come loose 
in the gas tank.  So what would it likely be?  A filter perhaps?  Is 
it serious?

I don't relish the idea of pulling the tank, or even just pulling a 
cover off.

Tanks in advance,

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com



-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1030 - Release Date: 9/25/2007 8:02 AM

From doug at dougbraun.com  Tue Sep 25 20:08:24 2007
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 19:08:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] a new clunking noise
In-Reply-To: <46F96B8C.32114.1686A2F@localhost>
Message-ID: <625086.58220.qm@web612.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Well, start by removing ABSOLUTELY EVERYTHING from the
trunk and seeing if the noise changes.

Then drive around with a small kid in the trunk, and
ask them if they can hear it.  :-)

But seriously, after you clean out the trunk, you will
have done half the work of removing the gas tank cover
panel.

Doug

--- Jim Muller <jimmuller at rcn.com> wrote:

> Just when I thought it was safe to put the wrenches
> away...
> 
> My Spitfire has a new sound.  When I turn a corner
> at anything more 
> than walking speed I hear a clunk clunk clunk, maybe
> 3 to 5 clunks 
> right behind me which sound like something bouncing
> across a metallic 
> floor or swinging against a metallic wall.  Except
> there isn't 
> anything to swing or bounce, nothing loose
> underneath nor under the 
> spare tire.

From nmoseley at dccnet.com  Tue Sep 25 21:36:53 2007
From: nmoseley at dccnet.com (Nick Moseley)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 20:36:53 -0700
Subject: [Spits] a new clunking noise
In-Reply-To: <46F96B8C.32114.1686A2F@localhost>
Message-ID: <1190777694_139384@mx.dccnet.com>

Check that all the lug nuts on your rear wheels are tight. Please don't ask
why I'm suggesting that (head downcast).

Nick Moseley
Near Vancouver B.C.
76-81 Spits

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces+nmoseley=dccnet.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces+nmoseley=dccnet.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Jim Muller
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 5:12 PM
To: spitfires at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] a new clunking noise

Just when I thought it was safe to put the wrenches away...

My Spitfire has a new sound.  When I turn a corner at anything more 
than walking speed I hear a clunk clunk clunk, maybe 3 to 5 clunks 
right behind me which sound like something bouncing across a metallic 
floor or swinging against a metallic wall.  Except there isn't 
anything to swing or bounce, nothing loose underneath nor under the 
spare tire.

I fully expect one or more of you to say it is something come loose 
in the gas tank.  So what would it likely be?  A filter perhaps?  Is 
it serious?

I don't relish the idea of pulling the tank, or even just pulling a 
cover off.

Tanks in advance,

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com



-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1030 - Release Date: 9/25/2007
8:02 AM
_______________________________________________
nmoseley at dccnet.com

Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Sep 25 21:53:39 2007
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 23:53:39 -0400
Subject: [Spits] a new clunking noise
In-Reply-To: <1190777694_139384@mx.dccnet.com>
References: <46F96B8C.32114.1686A2F@localhost>
Message-ID: <46F99F83.12007.2336652@localhost>

On 25 Sep 2007 at 20:36, Nick Moseley wrote:

> Check that all the lug nuts on your rear wheels are tight.

Good thought.  I shook the wheels right away but didn't put a wrench 
on the lug nuts.

> Please don't ask
> why I'm suggesting that (head downcast).

I won't ask.


-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+



-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1030 - Release Date: 9/25/2007 8:02 AM

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Sep 25 21:53:40 2007
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 23:53:40 -0400
Subject: [Spits] [TR] a new clunking noise
In-Reply-To: <46F9CEDB.4030004@shaw.ca>
References: <46F96B8C.32114.1686A2F@localhost>
Message-ID: <46F99F84.3294.2336955@localhost>

On 25 Sep 2007 at 20:15, Donald Tennant wrote:

> Have you checked your drive shaft U joints?

And Michael Porter suggested a u-joint.  In fact, I have a bad u-
joint on the right side halfshaft.  It's been bad for a long time and 
will be replaced soon.  The driveshaft was fine when I put the diff 
in a year ago.  In any case, this isn't a u-joint sound.  It's too 
slow and isn't that distinct clicking sound.  It's as if something 
were bouncing on a sheet metal suface.  Like a short-handle 
screwdriver free to roll across the trunk.  Except the trunk doesn't 
have anything like that.  I checked!

But thanks anyway.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+



-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1030 - Release Date: 9/25/2007 8:02 AM

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Sep 25 21:53:39 2007
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 23:53:39 -0400
Subject: [Spits] [TR] a new clunking noise
In-Reply-To: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C02D6DB3B@exchange.terra-incognita.net>
Message-ID: <46F99F83.28939.23367CE@localhost>

On 25 Sep 2007 at 22:27, Mark Hooper wrote:
> We have a nephew with us for the year enrolled in some
> ponsy school with radical ideas that the young need an education
> involving more than the history of Sodom and standing
> duty as a toast rack for the older students.
...
> Actually, the kid's not half bad what with no instructions and
> having to play with 2 pairs of socks and a washcloth
> stuffed deep in maw of the dreadful machine.

Mark, you've been reading too much P.G. Wodehouse.  Go back to 
Patrick O'Brien.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+



-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1030 - Release Date: 9/25/2007 8:02 AM

From clarkfot at cwnicholls.net  Wed Sep 26 12:24:34 2007
From: clarkfot at cwnicholls.net (Clark W. Nicholls)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 14:24:34 -0400
Subject: [Spits] a new clunking noise
In-Reply-To: <46F96B8C.32114.1686A2F@localhost>
References: <46F96B8C.32114.1686A2F@localhost>
Message-ID: <002001c8006a$7e870390$1342a8c0@semperon3400>

Put the top up and close the windows, you may be able to hear the noise
better. I keep the top down to avoid this!

Here's a new one for me I experienced last fall... 74 Spitfire.

Last year on my last run of the summer (as it turned out) I noticed a
rotational clicking from the rear, similar to a u-joint. The axle U-Joints
were  both recent, considering the miles I drive, but I figured, oh-well...
I slid underneath and by feel I determined the click was on the driver side,
so I did that u-joint.  It looked fine on removal, but it's out so a new one
goes in. 

Back on the road, still there, so I did the passenger side. Same deal, old
looked fine.

Noise still there... Hmmm... Driveshaft feels fine, but perhaps? I really
don't want to do those as I've had experience with ruining the balance
before. 

I disconnected everything from the diff and twisted and turned the stub
axles and input, I could still feel a clicking. After much hesitation I
removed the diff. Turned out that the shims behind the spider gears were
worn out and there was slop there which causes this.  Never heard of such a
thing.

Ted Schumacher wasn't too surprised.  Apparently it does this when one wheel
is turning faster than the other and the spider gears are doing their thing.
Straight line they should be still, but that's really straight!

I put in a spare diff and spring. The old spring had worn out the rub
buttons between the leaves and into the leaf below and was at least an inch
shorter than the spare. All is well, now. 

It took me over a month to think this all out and get the job done, It's a
big decision to swap the diff (and it's heavy too!).

The whine from the diff I lived with for 25 years is gone as a bonus!

Clark

From jerry.stasyszen at sbcglobal.net  Wed Sep 26 18:57:22 2007
From: jerry.stasyszen at sbcglobal.net (Jerry Stasyszen)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 18:57:22 -0600
Subject: [Spits] 77 Spitfire
In-Reply-To: <E18D34E83A849E4ABA7CAFD69251E6410A579410@dmhsasmail.odmhsas.org>
Message-ID: <001201c800a1$5d4fe1b0$6401a8c0@greeper>

Here is a link if anyone want to see the car and the parts

http://okcspitfire.atspace.com/77spit.htm

I am parting out a 77 Spitfire. I removed the engine and trans but the rest
remains. The body if pretty straight except that it was wrecked but all the
damaged arteas have been meticulously removed. I have new body parts to for
the areas that were cut out. The bonnet has some beginning rust but the
floors are in great shape. This would be a nice buildable car. I just don't
have the time or a mig to weld the body parts back together. If anyone is
interested in parts then email me off list or
call 405-672-9707 in Oklahoma City. I'll allow time here but if no one wants
any of it I'll put it up on ebay in a couple of weeks. The replacement parts
like the trans tunnel and sheet metal are new, roll bar has never been
installed.


Thanks
Jerry Stasyszen
405-672-9707
Jerry.stasyszen at sbcglobal.net
OKCSpitfire at sbcglobal.net
jstasyszen at odmhsas.org
_______________________________________________
Spitfires mailing list
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.22/1015 - Release Date: 9/18/2007
11:53 AM
 

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1030 - Release Date: 9/25/2007
8:02 AM

From higginstj at aol.com  Thu Sep 27 13:18:28 2007
From: higginstj at aol.com (higginstj at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 15:18:28 -0400
Subject: [Spits] (no subject)
Message-ID: <8C9CF52519F27FA-B34-6701@webmail-de15.sysops.aol.com>

I understand that Keihin carbs can be put on a spitfire.? Has anyone done this?? What size carb? Any extra "piping" needed? Thanks, Teddy spit73
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Sep 27 13:58:13 2007
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 12:58:13 -0700
Subject: [Spits] (no subject)
References: <8C9CF52519F27FA-B34-6701@webmail-de15.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <008401c80140$bce33240$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

PRI is doing that setup.  I don't have their web site but I am sure you can
google them.

Joe
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <higginstj at aol.com>
To: <spitfires at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 12:18 PM
Subject: [Spits] (no subject)


> I understand that Keihin carbs can be put on a spitfire.? Has anyone done
this?? What size carb? Any extra "piping" needed? Thanks, Teddy spit73
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! -
http://mail.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> spitlist at cox.net
>
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

From maya2blue at juno.com  Thu Sep 27 16:59:32 2007
From: maya2blue at juno.com (Harve Thorn)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 17:59:32 -0500
Subject: [Spits] need nicecigarette ligher "handle" for my spit
Message-ID: <20070927.175933.1824.0.maya2blue@juno.com>

Greetings...

I need a nicely painted "handle" for the cigarette lighter in my '78
Spitfire. The one that I have now has a barely visible painted cig on it.
I would like to have one that looks better. 

Or, does anyone know what to repaint it with?

Tks all

Harve

From andrew.lindeman at gmail.com  Fri Sep 28 00:42:57 2007
From: andrew.lindeman at gmail.com (Andrew Lindeman)
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 00:42:57 -0600
Subject: [Spits] It looks like it's that time again
Message-ID: <2cc65d5a0709272342o4e5d5be5rc012f9ccb2ca863@mail.gmail.com>

http://www.autonews.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20070927/ANE01/70927008/1116

You can use this to log in -

bobjones at bugmenot.com
spamsucks

Andy

From r.gosling at penspen.com  Fri Sep 28 03:05:52 2007
From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard)
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 10:05:52 +0100
Subject: [Spits] (no subject)
References: <8C9CF52519F27FA-B34-6701@webmail-de15.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF71A@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>

Jeff McNeal has done this - find out all about it at
http://www.totallytriumph.net/spitfire/projects2.shtml

Richard
  ________________________________________________________________________
This message (including any attachments) is confidential and may be
privileged. If you have received it by mistake please notify the sender by
return E-mail and delete this message from your system. Any unauthorised use
or dissemination of this message in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.
Please note that E-mails are susceptible to change.
The Penspen Group shall not be liable for the improper or incomplete
transmission of the information contained in this communication nor for any
delay in its receipt or damage to your system. The Penspen Group does not
guarantee that the integrity of this communication has been maintained or that
this communication is free of viruses, interceptions or interference.
The following UK companies within the Penspen Group and any electronic
communication sent on behalf of any of them, are subject to the provisions of
the UK Companies Act 1985;
PENSPEN HOLDINGS LIMITED (Company Number : 980600) Registered Office: 3 Water
Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239
7770 19)
PENSPEN LIMITED (Company Number: 584446) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane,
Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239 7770
19)
(Unipen, Penspen Integrity and Andrew Palmer & Associates are operating
divisions of Penspen Limited and Spencer & Partners and Pencol are trade names
of Penspen Limited)
MANCHESTER JETLINE LIMITED (Company Number: 2392093) Registered Office: 3
Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No;
537 8635 08)

From bill at gingerich.us  Sun Sep 30 20:44:09 2007
From: bill at gingerich.us (Bill Gingerich)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 21:44:09 -0500
Subject: [Spits] '66 GT6 Mk I for sale
Message-ID: <000001c803d4$f21d0f80$057e1340@shack2>

Greetings all,



It pains me to do this, but the 66 GT6 project car I have must go.  When I
bought it 2 = years ago I thought I would be able to restore it.  Perhaps my
original ambition was wishful thinking, but it is now clear it will be many
years before Im in the position to do this car justice.  So here we go.



It is a fairly early car, with the commission number of 1KC2515L.  It is one
of the CKD kit cars that was assembled in Belgium.  A member of these
lists, whos opinions and knowledge I trust, believes that it was originally
sold in West Germany.  I dont know.  I have a bunch of pictures of the car
and the pieces that I got with it that Im going to try to put on my website
in the next few days.  This is a project car.  The body will need rockers
and floors, plus patch panels on the lower rear wings.  It comes with some
of the needed body panels.  It has wire wheels with new tires.  The bonnet
has a couple of dents, but is solid overall.  The seats are there, but need
to be redone.  The rest of the interior trim panels are gone.  The dash is
complete, but the rim of the steering wheel has lost its covering.  There
is a lot more that is slipping my mind right now.  Feel free to ask any
questions.



Now the nitty-gritty:  The Mk Is are getting too rare to just strip this
car for parts.  I will not sell this car to anyone who wants to part it out!
If that is your plan, dont even bother to ask.  If all I get are parts
hounds, I will keep the car.  What I want is to find someone who has the
desire and wherewithal to restore this car.  I paid $1000 in 2005 for the
car, and that is what Im asking now.  It has been stored inside since I
bought it, and is currently located near Oklahoma City, OK.  There is a
clean Minnesota title.



Please contact me off list if you are interested.  Thanks for your
consideration.



BillG

NASS #133

Newalla, OK