From mjb at autox.team.net  Sat Jun 23 19:41:18 2007
From: mjb at autox.team.net (Mark J. Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2007 19:41:18 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Spits] List changes
Message-ID: <20070624014118.22678187ADF@autox.team.net>

In case you are wondering about that odd email welcoming you to a list
you already receive, I've switched spitfires at autox.team.net from
majordomo to mailman list management software.   Some things will be
different, some will be the same.  As before, if you want to send mail
to spitfires at autox.team.net you send mail to spitfires at autox.team.net
- you'd be surprised at how many folks can NOT figure that one out!

With Mailman, managing your subscription should be more web friendly.
You can go to the web pages listed in the messages and muck about with
your settings. One major change is that there is now just the one list
spitfires at autox.team.net, the list spitfires-digest at autox.team.net no
longer exists. But this doesn't mean there is no digest format, it
just means that one doesn't need to unsubscribe from one list and
subscribe to the other just to switch formats. Go to the list pages,
log in, and select digest or non-digest as you desire.

Another handy option is the 'nomail' feature.  If you are going to be away
from your email for a while, you can set your membership to nomail, and
then back to regular delivery upon your return.  A bit easier than having
to unsubscribe and then subscribe again.

A useful way to make use of the nomail feature is to enable submissions
from multiple addresses.  For example, one might want to subscribe
a-student at diploma.mill.edu as your main address.  But sometimes you
send mail from work, so you can subscribe busybee at monolith.com
and set the second address to nomail.  So messages you send from
either address will pass the membership test, but you won't get multiple
copies of each list message.

RealSoonNow I'll have a web page that covers some more of the various
differences and features.

mjb.

From andrew.lindeman at gmail.com  Sat Jun 23 19:57:35 2007
From: andrew.lindeman at gmail.com (Andrew Lindeman)
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2007 19:57:35 -0600
Subject: [Spits] Welcome to the "Spitfires" mailing list
In-Reply-To: <mailman.204.1182648160.9416.spitfires@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.204.1182648160.9416.spitfires@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <2cc65d5a0706231857hd1290d6ufa2459b183e3e99c@mail.gmail.com>

Looks like the upgrade worked.  Thanks Mark!

Is there anybody else out there?

Andy

From nmoseley at dccnet.com  Sat Jun 23 21:13:36 2007
From: nmoseley at dccnet.com (Nick Moseley)
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2007 20:13:36 -0700
Subject: [Spits] FW:  Welcome to the "Spitfires" mailing list
Message-ID: <1182654821_14251@mx.dccnet.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Nick Moseley [mailto:nmoseley at dccnet.com] 
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2007 8:12 PM
To: 'Andrew Lindeman'
Subject: RE: [Spits] Welcome to the "Spitfires" mailing list

Thanks Mark.
I'm here too Andy, on and off so to speak.
Nick Moseley
Near Vancouver B.C.

"Looks like the upgrade worked.  Thanks Mark!

Is there anybody else out there?

Andy"

From ptegler at cablespeed.com  Sat Jun 23 21:20:04 2007
From: ptegler at cablespeed.com (ptegler at cablespeed.com)
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2007 23:20:04 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Welcome to the "Spitfires" mailing list
References: <mailman.204.1182648160.9416.spitfires@autox.team.net>
	<2cc65d5a0706231857hd1290d6ufa2459b183e3e99c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002e01c7b60e$8fc358d0$0201a8c0@dragonlair>

yep!

Paul Tegler
ptegler at cablespeed.com
www.teglerizer.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andrew Lindeman" <andrew.lindeman at gmail.com>
To: <spitfires at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2007 9:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Spits] Welcome to the "Spitfires" mailing list


> Looks like the upgrade worked.  Thanks Mark!
> 
> Is there anybody else out there?
> 
> Andy

From dhlocker at comcast.net  Sat Jun 23 21:34:39 2007
From: dhlocker at comcast.net (Donald H Locker)
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2007 23:34:39 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Welcome to the "Spitfires" mailing list
In-Reply-To: <2cc65d5a0706231857hd1290d6ufa2459b183e3e99c@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.204.1182648160.9416.spitfires@autox.team.net>
	<2cc65d5a0706231857hd1290d6ufa2459b183e3e99c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <467DE64F.1030104@comcast.net>

I made it through the transition.  Thanks, Mark!

Donald.

Andrew Lindeman wrote:
> Looks like the upgrade worked.  Thanks Mark!
> 
> Is there anybody else out there?
> 
> Andy

From jerry.stasyszen at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jun 23 22:46:30 2007
From: jerry.stasyszen at sbcglobal.net (Jerry Stasyszen)
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2007 22:46:30 -0600
Subject: [Spits] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <mailman.183.1182648160.9416.spitfires@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <006601c7b61a$a2780cd0$6401a8c0@greeper>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.9.2/858 - Release Date: 6/21/2007
1:46 PM

From carcentric at yahoo.com  Sun Jun 24 00:36:24 2007
From: carcentric at yahoo.com (M D Nugent)
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2007 23:36:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] Welcome to the "Spitfires" mailing list
In-Reply-To: <2cc65d5a0706231857hd1290d6ufa2459b183e3e99c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <827606.20854.qm@web33710.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- Andrew Lindeman <andrew.lindeman at gmail.com> wrote:
> Looks like the upgrade worked.  Thanks Mark!
> Is there anybody else out there?
> Andy


Uh-huh.

M D "Doc" Nugent - http://www.carcentric.com
Seattle area



 
____________________________________________________________________________________
Now that's room service!  Choose from over 150,000 hotels
in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.
http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097

From rdroe at comcast.net  Sun Jun 24 02:03:47 2007
From: rdroe at comcast.net (Richard Roe)
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2007 04:03:47 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Welcome to the "Spitfires" mailing list
References: <mailman.204.1182648160.9416.spitfires@autox.team.net>
	<2cc65d5a0706231857hd1290d6ufa2459b183e3e99c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <06a001c7b636$324a5550$6501a8c0@joshua>

Here too.....


Rick

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andrew Lindeman" <andrew.lindeman at gmail.com>
To: <spitfires at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2007 9:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Spits] Welcome to the "Spitfires" mailing list


> Looks like the upgrade worked.  Thanks Mark!
> 
> Is there anybody else out there?
> 
> Andy
> _______________________________________________
> Spitfires mailing list
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

From parrotthead01 at comcast.net  Sun Jun 24 06:29:36 2007
From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net (Daniel parrott)
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2007 08:29:36 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Welcome to the "Spitfires" mailing list
In-Reply-To: <06a001c7b636$324a5550$6501a8c0@joshua>
Message-ID: <000b01c7b65b$543be8c0$6501a8c0@DANSDELL>

Loud and clear

Dan Parrott
Savannah, Ga.

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Roe
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2007 4:04 AM
To: spitfires at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] Welcome to the "Spitfires" mailing list

Here too.....


Rick

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andrew Lindeman" <andrew.lindeman at gmail.com>
To: <spitfires at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2007 9:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Spits] Welcome to the "Spitfires" mailing list


> Looks like the upgrade worked.  Thanks Mark!
> 
> Is there anybody else out there?
> 
> Andy
> _______________________________________________
> Spitfires mailing list
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
_______________________________________________
Spitfires mailing list
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jun 24 06:29:41 2007
From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Bob Berger)
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2007 07:29:41 -0500
Subject: [Spits] Welcome to the "Spitfires" mailing list
In-Reply-To: <467DE64F.1030104@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C2A3CDE5.716%bberger720@sbcglobal.net>

I'm here

Bob Berger
St. Louis
78 Spitfire


> From: Donald H Locker <dhlocker at comcast.net>
> Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2007 23:34:39 -0400
> To: Andrew Lindeman <andrew.lindeman at gmail.com>
> Cc: <spitfires at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Spits] Welcome to the "Spitfires" mailing list
> 
> I made it through the transition.  Thanks, Mark!
> 
> Donald.
> 
> Andrew Lindeman wrote:
>> Looks like the upgrade worked.  Thanks Mark!
>> 
>> Is there anybody else out there?
>> 
>> Andy
> _______________________________________________
> Spitfires mailing list
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

From fanders2 at optonline.net  Sun Jun 24 07:13:12 2007
From: fanders2 at optonline.net (Frank Anderson)
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2007 09:13:12 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Mailing List
Message-ID: <467E6DE8.4070709@optonline.net>

   All okay here.  Thanks

Frank Anderson
79 Spit

From trbob at comcast.net  Sun Jun 24 07:55:35 2007
From: trbob at comcast.net (trbob at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2007 13:55:35 +0000
Subject: [Spits] spits
Message-ID: <062420071355.23668.467E77D7000305B400005C7422165499760D010D9D9B@comcast.net>

Loud and clear also.  bob krivenko

From grizmoto at midrivers.com  Sun Jun 24 08:58:58 2007
From: grizmoto at midrivers.com (Marty Paulson)
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2007 08:58:58 -0600
Subject: [Spits] (no subject)
Message-ID: <007f01c7b670$35004130$a7d85940@Paulson>

I'm here

Marty Paulson
76 Spit
Lewistown MT

From davidt at opentext.com  Sun Jun 24 09:15:59 2007
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2007 11:15:59 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Welcome to the "Spitfires" mailing list
Message-ID: <98554F05BF1D8C4DB36E3B8330E2A79E04EB452E@OTWATMX01.opentext.net>

   The ping is good here as well :-)
   David Templeton

From frankd8000 at comcast.net  Sun Jun 24 11:17:52 2007
From: frankd8000 at comcast.net (Frank Drummond)
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2007 13:17:52 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Welcome
Message-ID: <005501c7b683$999e2e00$670aa8c0@frankdesktop>

Frank Drummond Sr. heard the call.

From jim.dwyer at sympatico.ca  Sun Jun 24 11:33:58 2007
From: jim.dwyer at sympatico.ca (Jim Dwyer)
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2007 13:33:58 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Rattling Dome Snaps
Message-ID: <001901c7b685$d977a130$6400a8c0@your86f4746643>

I just replaces the top and the dome snaps over my head are rattling so bad
that I can't hear the stereo!  Any thoughts on a fix?

Jim

From ptegler at cablespeed.com  Sun Jun 24 12:31:59 2007
From: ptegler at cablespeed.com (ptegler at cablespeed.com)
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2007 14:31:59 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Rattling Dome Snaps
References: <001901c7b685$d977a130$6400a8c0@your86f4746643>
Message-ID: <002101c7b68d$f42974b0$0201a8c0@dragonlair>

I assume you mean the snaps themselves are rattling as well as rattling 
against the crossbar?
The little ring can be quieted with a tiny spec of silicone sealer dabbed 
against the ring in the snap then snap it together to let it setup.
A TINY bit I say.

For the snap to crossbar.... use the fuzzy side of those long rolls of 
Velcro as a buffer on the bar itself.
Stock...the frame bars had this material on the cross bars to keep the op 
from chaffing in the metal. a peice on the bottom works well to stop the 
snaps from banging/rattling

Paul Tegler
ptegler at cablespeed.com
www.teglerizer.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Dwyer" <jim.dwyer at sympatico.ca>
To: <spitfires at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2007 1:33 PM
Subject: [Spits] Rattling Dome Snaps


>I just replaces the top and the dome snaps over my head are rattling so bad
> that I can't hear the stereo!  Any thoughts on a fix?
>
> Jim 

From celiracer81 at hotmail.com  Sun Jun 24 13:26:36 2007
From: celiracer81 at hotmail.com (David Mayer)
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2007 19:26:36 +0000
Subject: [Spits] Welcome to the "Spitfires" mailing list
In-Reply-To: <467DE64F.1030104@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY107-F27618DF88161BF54A9E365A2150@phx.gbl>

Worked for me!



>From: Donald H Locker <dhlocker at comcast.net>
>To: Andrew Lindeman <andrew.lindeman at gmail.com>
>CC: spitfires at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Spits] Welcome to the "Spitfires" mailing list
>Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2007 23:34:39 -0400
>
>I made it through the transition.  Thanks, Mark!
>
>Donald.
>
>Andrew Lindeman wrote:
> > Looks like the upgrade worked.  Thanks Mark!
> >
> > Is there anybody else out there?
> >
> > Andy
>_______________________________________________
>Spitfires mailing list
>Spitfires at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

_________________________________________________________________
Who's that on the Red Carpet? Play & win glamorous prizes. 
http://club.live.com/red_carpet_reveal.aspx?icid=REDCARPET_hotmailtextlink3

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sun Jun 24 13:49:26 2007
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2007 15:49:26 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Welcome to the "Spitfires" mailing list
In-Reply-To: <BAY107-F27618DF88161BF54A9E365A2150@phx.gbl>
References: <467DE64F.1030104@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <467E9286.1542.237D871F@localhost>

Andrew Lindeman asked:
> Is there anybody else out there?

Spitfire one to Coventry base, do you read me, over?

Come in, Coventry, over.

Spitfire two, do you copy, over?  Spitfire two??

WHERE IS EVERYBODY?????

Ah, just kidding.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+



-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.9.6/863 - Release Date: 6/23/2007 11:08 AM

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sun Jun 24 13:59:47 2007
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2007 15:59:47 -0400
Subject: [Spits] got the clutch working!
Message-ID: <467E94F3.668.23870036@localhost>

Got my Spitfre 1500 clutch working again!  Dropped a 7/16"x4" grade 8 
bolt into the hole, ran a new Nyloc nut up the threads, took it for a 
short spin.  Now the clutch feels just like it did when I first put 
that gearbox in.  Which is to say, it engages way down near the 
bottom of the pedal travel but otherwise feels normal.  I suspect it 
probably didn't need to be a grade 8 bolt, but what the heck.  I did 
put a washer under the bolt head because the concavity of the bell 
housing there didn't provide a good contact surface.  Nor was there a 
good surface under the bottom either.  But the bolt doesn't need to 
be snugged anyway, so unless the Nyloc nut falls off and then the 
bolt manages to work its way upward, it should be fixed!

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com



-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.9.6/863 - Release Date: 6/23/2007 11:08 AM

From EDENMA at aol.com  Sun Jun 24 16:35:49 2007
From: EDENMA at aol.com (EDENMA at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2007 18:35:49 EDT
Subject: [Spits] Welcome
Message-ID: <cb4.1402e9b8.33b04bc5@aol.com>

Roger, Rodger........and please don't call me Shirley!
 
Cheers!
 
Mark



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.

From doug at dougbraun.com  Sun Jun 24 19:31:30 2007
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2007 18:31:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] Rattling Dome Snaps
In-Reply-To: <001901c7b685$d977a130$6400a8c0@your86f4746643>
Message-ID: <933082.57123.qm@web614.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Obviously, like most of us, you never bother to snap
those top snaps :-)

I am annoyed by that, but I hardly ever drive with the
top up.  I have considered smearing a bit of glue
(Duco or Uhu?) in the female snap, enough to dampen
the vibration of that metal ring, but not so much as
to keep if from snapping.

Doug Braun
'72 Spit


--- Jim Dwyer <jim.dwyer at sympatico.ca> wrote:

> I just replaces the top and the dome snaps over my
> head are rattling so bad
> that I can't hear the stereo!  Any thoughts on a
> fix?
> 
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
> Spitfires mailing list
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

From doug at dougbraun.com  Sun Jun 24 19:47:47 2007
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2007 18:47:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] [Spit] Electronic Ignition System for Spitfire MK 3,
	1970
In-Reply-To: <F942B9DB4EFA440DA1B05CBF2C27DBA0@PCdePaulErne>
Message-ID: <892675.76510.qm@web609.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I think it is sort of dubious to add an expensive
electronic ignition in attempt to fix a poorly-running
engine, without first proving that the distributor is
the cause of the problem.  With the number of miles
put on most Spits, the points and condenser should not
need attention for several years, so the reduced
maintenance of an electronic ignition does not really
matter much.

That said, if I decided to get one, it would be the
Pertronix.  I would avoid anything that required an
extra box and wires- more things to go wrong.

Doug Braun
'72 Spit


--- Paul-Ernest Lo?=vesque
<pelevesque at globetrotter.net> wrote:

> Can someone comment on the value of installing an
> Electronic Ignition System, and also where to buy
> one I see at Victoria British one is a Crane Cams
> XR3000 for $189.95 and Ingnitor Delco at $109.95.
> Spitbit sell Crane at $149.50. The last one seems to
> be less expensive. But I do not know the difference
> between them.
> 
> But still I am wandering if it worth it to buy, I
> mean return benefit on better running an engine.
> 
> Paul-Ernest
> 
> Your messages not reaching the list?
> Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html
> 
> ===  This list supported in part by The Vintage
> Triumph Register
> ===     http://www.vtr.org
> 
> ===  Help keep Team.Net on the air
> ===     http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> ===  unsubscribe/change address requests to
> majordomo at autox.team.net  or try
> ===  http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
> ===  Other lists available at
> ===      http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
> ===  Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
> ===  http://www.team.net/the-local
> ===  Edit your replies!

From doug at dougbraun.com  Sun Jun 24 19:50:49 2007
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2007 18:50:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] [Spit] Electronic Ignition System for Spitfire MK 3,
	1970
In-Reply-To: <001301c7a9f5$6a77b460$0200a8c0@bills>
Message-ID: <277763.78766.qm@web609.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Was your car clearly running badly before you
upgraded,
or are you saying that switching from a good points
ignition to an electronic one gave you such a big
improvement?

Doug


--- "Bill Miller (LBCs)" <lbcs at earthlink.net> wrote:

> Though I have several spits, my experience with the
> electronic ignition was
> with my MGB.  I recently put an electronic ignition
> system on my daily
> driver MGB.
> 
> I purchase the Moss Petronix unit (with the
> distributor) and a matched coil
> from Ed at Just Brits.  I'm thinking it was around
> ~$220 or so.  I cannot be
> happier.  The car runs much much better and the
> mileage increased nearly 30%
> It was a very simple change (took all of 15 minutes)
> and I could not be
> happier.
> 
> Now I am not sure which of the items caused all the
> improvements (electronic
> ignition, distributor, or coil) or if it was
> combination of all three.  It
> has made the car a joy to drive again.

From stiker2126 at yahoo.com  Mon Jun 25 05:29:38 2007
From: stiker2126 at yahoo.com (Henry Stike)
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 04:29:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] test
Message-ID: <20070625112938.2042.qmail@web30702.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

wonder if we made the switch... test....



 
____________________________________________________________________________________
Don't pick lemons.
See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.
http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html 

From JStasyszen at odmhsas.org  Mon Jun 25 06:24:13 2007
From: JStasyszen at odmhsas.org (Stasyszen, Jerry)
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 07:24:13 -0500
Subject: [Spits] testing
Message-ID: <E18D34E83A849E4ABA7CAFD69251E64109449C91@dmhsasmail.odmhsas.org>

Thanks
Jerry Stasyszen
76/77 Spifires
jstasyszen at odmhsas.org
OKCSpitfire at sbcglobal.net

From Mackmi at usa.redcross.org  Mon Jun 25 06:43:22 2007
From: Mackmi at usa.redcross.org (Mackmi at usa.redcross.org)
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 08:43:22 -0400
Subject: [Spits]  Welcome to the "Spitfires" mailing list
Message-ID: <FACFDCD78A15E345BD5940312C78C1460B9CD5E8@brnyrchex1.bio.ri.redcross.net>

Present and accounted for, SIR!

Mike Mack
77 Spir
70 GT6+

From walker910 at aol.com  Mon Jun 25 07:09:13 2007
From: walker910 at aol.com (walker910 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 09:09:13 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Mailing list
Message-ID: <8C9854129768289-AD8-6AA@WEBMAIL-DC21.sysops.aol.com>

Eugene, Oregon replying affirmative

Bob Walker
'70 Spitfire
________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone.  Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.

From ccrisenbery at fellerfinch.com  Mon Jun 25 08:47:05 2007
From: ccrisenbery at fellerfinch.com (Chris Crisenbery)
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 10:47:05 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Rear suspension modification question
Message-ID: <s67f9d4b.086@FFA_MAUMEE.fellerfinch.com>

Dear Listers,

I'm looking at making an adjustable rear shackle to be able to adjust
the rear tires camber.  I believe Kas Kastners book has a picture of an
adjustable shackle.  I'm talking about the piece that attaches at the
end of the spring and bolts to the rear axle trunnion and lower shock
mount.

Have any of you done this modification?  I believe the Kas detail shows
the 2 "eyes" being whacked off of the shackle and a rod end welded onto
each side to take it's place.  I believe when you screw the rod ends up
you will lengthen the overall length of the shackle and it should raise
the car by having less camber on the rear wheels.

I would be interested in any pictures or experience in doing this mod.

Thanks


___________________________

Christopher E. Crisenbery, P.E.
Feller, Finch & Associates, Inc.
2797 Spring Arbor Rd., Suite B
Jackson, MI 49203
p/n (517) 783-0710
fax (517) 783-0711

From george.r.parker at att.net  Mon Jun 25 09:28:59 2007
From: george.r.parker at att.net (george.r.parker at att.net)
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 15:28:59 +0000
Subject: [Spits] Crane electronic ignition
Message-ID: <062520071528.6509.467FDF3A000F384E0000196D21602806519D0A059D0E9FD29DD20A099D010A09@att.net>

Someone mentioned the Crane XR3000 system....  I have a couple of XR700 systems (I believe that's what they are), one of which is from one of my Dad's Jags, and the other from my Spit.  I switched to a points/condenser distributor, and my Dad switched his Jag to a Pertronix, both for the same reasons Doug Braun mentioned.

But, if anyone wants to try one of these systems, they can be had for cheap....   I'll have to take a look in the boxes to let you know *exactly* what I have, though.  E-mail off list, if interested.
--
George P. 
NASS #290 
'78 Spit 1500 
Ruther Glen, VA

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Jun 25 09:57:19 2007
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 08:57:19 -0700
Subject: [Spits] Rear suspension modification question
References: <s67f9d4b.086@FFA_MAUMEE.fellerfinch.com>
Message-ID: <004f01c7b741$831cabc0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

Chris,
I don't recall seeing anything like you describe in the books I have from
Kas.  But it all depends on which suspension you are working with.

On the standard early Spit swing axle, the two control arms in the rear
suspension are the spring (forming the upper element) and the axle (forming
the lower one).  Since the position of the suspension has a lot to do with
the camber that is achieved, lowering the car by reducing the spring arch or
by adding blocks between the spring and the diff are the only two choices
you have short of lengthening or shortening either the axles or spring.

Kas recommends reducing the spring arch to 3.5" which does a good job of
increasing negative camber and lowering the car.

I have also seen some photos of people who have drilled the uprights to
place the spring eyelet lower on the upright and thus changing the
relativity between the upper and lower control elements.  I haven't seen any
data on what effect that would have and am not sure that I would want to go
that route.  It seems that might have some odd effects on how the suspension
works.

If you get any actual data on that or any other more radical modifications,
I'd love to hear about it.

Cheers,
Joe

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Crisenbery" <ccrisenbery at fellerfinch.com>
To: <spitfires at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2007 7:47 AM
Subject: [Spits] Rear suspension modification question


> Dear Listers,
>
> I'm looking at making an adjustable rear shackle to be able to adjust
> the rear tires camber.  I believe Kas Kastners book has a picture of an
> adjustable shackle.  I'm talking about the piece that attaches at the
> end of the spring and bolts to the rear axle trunnion and lower shock
> mount.
>
> Have any of you done this modification?  I believe the Kas detail shows
> the 2 "eyes" being whacked off of the shackle and a rod end welded onto
> each side to take it's place.  I believe when you screw the rod ends up
> you will lengthen the overall length of the shackle and it should raise
> the car by having less camber on the rear wheels.
>
> I would be interested in any pictures or experience in doing this mod.
>
> Thanks
>
>
> ___________________________
>
> Christopher E. Crisenbery, P.E.
> Feller, Finch & Associates, Inc.
> 2797 Spring Arbor Rd., Suite B
> Jackson, MI 49203
> p/n (517) 783-0710
> fax (517) 783-0711
> _______________________________________________
> Spitfires mailing list
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Mon Jun 25 11:08:31 2007
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 09:08:31 -0800
Subject: [Spits] Central Coast (CA) British Car & Motorcycle Show
Message-ID: <v01520d0fc2a5a6932776@[4.232.207.88]>

************************************************

The 17th Annual Central Coast British Car Club's 
    All British Car & Motorcycle Show
July 22, 2007 All Day  8:00 am to 4:00 pm

Channel Islands Yacht Harbor 
3600 Harbor Blvd. 
Oxnard Beach, CA

Featured Marque: Morgan Cars and 3-wheelers 

Trophies in every class- Raffle Prizes given all day!
   Swap Meet!  ~  Entertainment!  ~  Food! - Fun! 
Please call C. Darryl Struth at (805) 644-6211
Or Don Greene (805) 652-0330/email: <dggreene at aol.com>  
To get a registration form go to the clubs website:
http://www.centralcoastbritishcarclub.com 

****************************************************

From paulfmeyer at msn.com  Mon Jun 25 10:12:08 2007
From: paulfmeyer at msn.com (Paul Meyer)
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 12:12:08 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Tail and dash light Gremlins
In-Reply-To: <8C9854129768289-AD8-6AA@WEBMAIL-DC21.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-F35004B4E526EE6B546DFACCD140@phx.gbl>

Guys,

When I first got my '78 Spitfire in 2000, I had intermittent electrical 
problems, most of which cleared up when I replaced the old frame ground 
strap.  I later upgraded to a GM alternator which improved most of the 
remaining, occasional problems.

I have had one issue, though, that got worse.  Years ago, the dash and tail 
lights would go out simultaneously.  The next day, they'd work.  This 
happened 6 or 7 times in the first two years of ownership.  So, I dismantled 
all the lights, cleaned the contact surfaces, applied dielectric grease and 
re-assembled.  It appeared to solve the problem for a while.  Then it 
returned.  Recently I can't get the dash or tail-lights to work at all.  
Oddly, my left turn signal works in the rear, but not the right.

I'd really like some feedback on this.  Has anyone had the same problem?

I've pored over the wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual, and a really great 
one that has the wiring in color that I found on-line.

It appears that all the affected lights share one common red wire that 
travels from the body harness under the dash to the rear of the car.  This 
doesn't explain the dash lights, though.  I jumpered the red wire at the 
harness plug to the rear of the car, and it didn't improve.  I unwrapped the 
tape over most of the harness wiring, but couldn't find any obvious exposed 
copper or damaged insulation.  I'm stumped.

There is a black wire, the ground, that runs from the tail lamp housings 
toward the front of the car, but doesn't seem to have a pin in the body 
harness connector.  I tried tracing it, and I think it terminates at a nut 
on the firewall brace near the battery - several black wires join there and 
are linked by a cable on the same nut to the black Battery terminal.

At the tail, some wires have power - specifically, the fuel guage sender.  I 
was not able to get the light to come on at any of the lamp positions 
affected.

I gently pulled the fuse box out to look over the harness connections.  They 
all appear ok, but the middle fuse is connected to only one green wire with 
a red stripe.  Seems odd.

In desperation, I ordered a new body harness, 6 new lamp sockets, and new 
bulbs.  I also ordered a new dimmer for the dash lights, as it's part of the 
same red-wire circuit.  I hate taking the shotgun approach, but I'm out of 
ideas and will need an inspection sticker next month.

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail to go? Get your Hotmail, news, sports and much more! 
http://mobile.msn.com

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Jun 25 10:32:10 2007
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 09:32:10 -0700
Subject: [Spits] Tail and dash light Gremlins
References: <BAY110-F35004B4E526EE6B546DFACCD140@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <005f01c7b747$eced8aa0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

Paul,
As a Spitfire owner you are a charter member of a very elite group (Scions
of Lucas)  also called SOL.  The main problem that causes these issues is
the typr of unprotected connector that is used to get the power and ground
connections to the various circuits.  These bullet connectors are very
succeptable to corrosion and loss of contact.  If you go through the system
and replace the connectors with modern ones you will likely resolve the
problem instead of putting them off for a while longer.

Good Luck,
Joe
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Meyer" <paulfmeyer at msn.com>
To: <spitfires at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2007 9:12 AM
Subject: [Spits] Tail and dash light Gremlins


> Guys,
>
> When I first got my '78 Spitfire in 2000, I had intermittent electrical
> problems, most of which cleared up when I replaced the old frame ground
> strap.  I later upgraded to a GM alternator which improved most of the
> remaining, occasional problems.
>
> I have had one issue, though, that got worse.  Years ago, the dash and
tail
> lights would go out simultaneously.  The next day, they'd work.  This
> happened 6 or 7 times in the first two years of ownership.  So, I
dismantled
> all the lights, cleaned the contact surfaces, applied dielectric grease
and
> re-assembled.  It appeared to solve the problem for a while.  Then it
> returned.  Recently I can't get the dash or tail-lights to work at all.
> Oddly, my left turn signal works in the rear, but not the right.
>
> I'd really like some feedback on this.  Has anyone had the same problem?
>
> I've pored over the wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual, and a really
great
> one that has the wiring in color that I found on-line.
>
> It appears that all the affected lights share one common red wire that
> travels from the body harness under the dash to the rear of the car.  This
> doesn't explain the dash lights, though.  I jumpered the red wire at the
> harness plug to the rear of the car, and it didn't improve.  I unwrapped
the
> tape over most of the harness wiring, but couldn't find any obvious
exposed
> copper or damaged insulation.  I'm stumped.
>
> There is a black wire, the ground, that runs from the tail lamp housings
> toward the front of the car, but doesn't seem to have a pin in the body
> harness connector.  I tried tracing it, and I think it terminates at a nut
> on the firewall brace near the battery - several black wires join there
and
> are linked by a cable on the same nut to the black Battery terminal.
>
> At the tail, some wires have power - specifically, the fuel guage sender.
I
> was not able to get the light to come on at any of the lamp positions
> affected.
>
> I gently pulled the fuse box out to look over the harness connections.
They
> all appear ok, but the middle fuse is connected to only one green wire
with
> a red stripe.  Seems odd.
>
> In desperation, I ordered a new body harness, 6 new lamp sockets, and new
> bulbs.  I also ordered a new dimmer for the dash lights, as it's part of
the
> same red-wire circuit.  I hate taking the shotgun approach, but I'm out of
> ideas and will need an inspection sticker next month.
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Hotmail to go? Get your Hotmail, news, sports and much more!
> http://mobile.msn.com
> _______________________________________________
> Spitfires mailing list
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

From trbob at comcast.net  Mon Jun 25 12:05:51 2007
From: trbob at comcast.net (trbob at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 18:05:51 +0000
Subject: [Spits] Ken C
Message-ID: <062520071805.6760.468003FC000874FA00001A6822165279660D010D9D9B@comcast.net>

Hello there;  I have been trying to contact Ken C. (sdspitfire at hotmail.com) about some of his spitfire parts that are for sale but have been unsuccessful.  Ken if you are out there or if anyone has another way of contacting him please let me know.  Thanks for you time.  bob k.  

From thomas.blondel at 9online.fr  Mon Jun 25 12:44:16 2007
From: thomas.blondel at 9online.fr (Thomas Blondel)
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 20:44:16 +0200
Subject: [Spits] Mailing List
In-Reply-To: <467E6DE8.4070709@optonline.net>
References: <467E6DE8.4070709@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <46800D00.4080308@9online.fr>

Bonjour ` tous,

Ici la France, je vous recois cinq sur cinq.

Et vive la Spit

Thomas Mk3 69
Grenoble

Frank Anderson a icrit :
>    All okay here.  Thanks
>
> Frank Anderson
> 79 Spit
> _______________________________________________
> Spitfires mailing list
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

From doug at dougbraun.com  Mon Jun 25 13:09:09 2007
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 12:09:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] Tail and dash light Gremlins
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-F35004B4E526EE6B546DFACCD140@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <253886.47996.qm@web602.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Are you sure it's not a bad connection at the fuse
block?  The clips that hold the fuses are very flaky
and do not hold their spring tension well.  Also
beware of this especially awful feature of the fuse
block:  Some of the clips are NOT a a single U-shaped
piece, but two separate J-shaped pieces, each of which
is connected to half of the wires of the fuse's
circuit. Thus a bad connection at a fuse can make half
of the circuit go out, while the other half is
working.

Jam your head under the dash and have a careful look
at the back of the fuse box, and you will see what I
mean.  I can't believe they could get away with
selling a car with a safety-critical part of such poor
quality...

Doug Braun
'72 Spit



--- Paul Meyer <paulfmeyer at msn.com> wrote:

> 
> 
> I have had one issue, though, that got worse.  Years
> ago, the dash and tail 
> lights would go out simultaneously.  The next day,
> they'd work.  This 
> happened 6 or 7 times in the first two years of
> ownership.  

From doug at dougbraun.com  Mon Jun 25 13:12:05 2007
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 12:12:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] Tail and dash light Gremlins
In-Reply-To: <005f01c7b747$eced8aa0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>
Message-ID: <605794.26122.qm@web604.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Yes!  Yes!  RIGHT NOW go order abuot 8 of those 4-way
female bullet junction blocks, and replace every one
you can find.  For starters, there are 2 or 3 inside
the very front of the bonnet, and one or two between
the taillights.  The metal part inside those
connectors often cracks and loses all spring tension.

Doug


--- Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net> wrote:

> Paul,
> As a Spitfire owner you are a charter member of a
> very elite group (Scions
> of Lucas)  also called SOL.  The main problem that
> causes these issues is
> the typr of unprotected connector that is used to
> get the power and ground
> connections to the various circuits.  These bullet
> connectors are very
> succeptable to corrosion and loss of contact.  If
> you go through the system
> and replace the connectors with modern ones you will
> likely resolve the
> problem instead of putting them off for a while
> longer.

From bill at gingerich.us  Mon Jun 25 16:01:06 2007
From: bill at gingerich.us (bill at gingerich.us)
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 15:01:06 -0700
Subject: [Spits] Moisture from a concrete floor?
Message-ID: <20070625150106.4412066ecf79773770454ed1d3ca4b3c.386689140c.wbe@email.secureserver.net>

   Greetings, All!

   Over  the years, I've heard various comments about moisture coming out
   of  concrete  floors and speeding the rusting process of metals stored
   on  it.   You  know,  like  a  project  car  sitting in storage for an
   extended  time.   So  my  question  is  this  -  Is  this,  in fact, a
   concern?  I'm  going  to have to store 2 of my projects in an enclosed
   steel  shed with  a  poured  concrete floor.  There will be no climate
   control,  just  Oklahoma  heat,  humidity, etc.   Should  I  seal  the
   concrete?   Put  down a piece of poly sheeting?  Buy one of those cool
   but  expensive  inflatable plastic bubbles?  Not worry about it?  What
   say you all?

   Bill Gingerich

   Newalla, OK

From ptegler at cablespeed.com  Mon Jun 25 16:40:53 2007
From: ptegler at cablespeed.com (ptegler at cablespeed.com)
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 18:40:53 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Rear suspension modification question
References: <s67f9d4b.086@FFA_MAUMEE.fellerfinch.com>
	<004f01c7b741$831cabc0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>
Message-ID: <016301c7b779$e3e749a0$0201a8c0@dragonlair>

Christopher  are these what you're looking for?
(9th picture down the page.....)
< 
http://www.btinternet.com/~jon.wolfe/wolfitt_products_1.htm#Adjustable%20rear%20vertical%20link%20kit >

Paul Tegler
ptegler at cablespeed.com
www.teglerizer.com

From doug at dougbraun.com  Mon Jun 25 17:38:28 2007
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 16:38:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] Moisture from a concrete floor?
In-Reply-To: <20070625150106.4412066ecf79773770454ed1d3ca4b3c.386689140c.wbe@email.secureserver.net>
Message-ID: <340654.29284.qm@web601.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I would definitely worry about it!  It would be worse
in a closed shed with no air circulation, or if the
slab was on top of a naturally damp area.

I believe that if you are building a garage, etc, you
are supposed to put a plastic vapor barrier under the
cement.

A plastic sheet would probably help if it did not
collect rainwater and make things worse. If you are
sure you will not be touching the cars, you could wrap
a big plastic sheet around each car, seal it with
tape, and put a tub of moisture absorber under the
car.

Doug Braun
'72 Spit

--- bill at gingerich.us wrote:

>    Greetings, All!
> 
>    Over  the years, I've heard various comments
> about moisture coming out
>    of  concrete  floors and speeding the rusting
> process of metals stored
>    on  it.   You  know,  like  a  project  car 
> sitting in storage for an
>    extended  time.   So  my  question  is  this  - 
> Is  this,  in fact, a
>    concern?  I'm  going  to have to store 2 of my
> projects in an enclosed
>    steel  shed with  a  poured  concrete floor. 
> There will be no climate
>    control,  just  Oklahoma  heat,  humidity, etc.  
> Should  I  seal  the
>    concrete?   Put  down a piece of poly sheeting? 
> Buy one of those cool
>    but  expensive  inflatable plastic bubbles?  Not
> worry about it?  What
>    say you all?
> 
>    Bill Gingerich
> 
>    Newalla, OK
> _______________________________________________
> Spitfires mailing list
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Jun 25 17:56:26 2007
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 19:56:26 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Moisture from a concrete floor?
In-Reply-To: <20070625150106.4412066ecf79773770454ed1d3ca4b3c.386689140c.wbe@email.secureserver.net>
Message-ID: <46801DEA.15461.2689626@localhost>

On 25 Jun 2007 at 15:01, bill at gingerich.us wrote:

> Over  the years, I've heard various comments about moisture coming out
>    of  concrete  floors and speeding the rusting process of metals stored
>    on  it.

Can't say one way or the other except from experience.  My garage has 
a concrete floor and it is very dry.  Any car I've kept there has 
stayed in nice condition.  Then again, during a New England winter 
the average humidity is in the negative numbers most of the time.  
Even so, it seems dry in there compared to outside during other 
seasons too.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+



-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.9.6/866 - Release Date: 6/25/2007 9:43 AM

From nmoseley at dccnet.com  Mon Jun 25 20:14:50 2007
From: nmoseley at dccnet.com (Nick Moseley)
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 19:14:50 -0700
Subject: [Spits] Tail and dash light Gremlins
In-Reply-To: <253886.47996.qm@web602.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1182824096_21259@mx.dccnet.com>

Me too! I agree with Paul and Joe.
The fuse box and poor connections between the fuses and the clips can create
all kinds of intermittent problems. If left alone, the clips start sparking
when contact is made and lost. Along with the little sparks comes heat, and
soon, the plastic fuse block holding the clips in place melts, moving the
clips even further from the fuses. By that point, its time for a new fuse
block, both elusive, and a pain to have to install, as you have to pull the
whole front harness' connections and run them through the new block.

The female connectors are another common problem, many of them over 30 years
old and exposed to all kinds of weather. Replacement or at least a little
remediation will help prevent dark nights being a problem.

Nick Moseley 76-81 Spits, near Vancouver B.C.

From bill at gingerich.us  Mon Jun 25 20:51:13 2007
From: bill at gingerich.us (Bill Gingerich)
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 21:51:13 -0500
Subject: [Spits] Tail and dash light Gremlins
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-F35004B4E526EE6B546DFACCD140@phx.gbl>
References: <8C9854129768289-AD8-6AA@WEBMAIL-DC21.sysops.aol.com>
	<BAY110-F35004B4E526EE6B546DFACCD140@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <004201c7b79c$dc9e6de0$64dea8c0@shack2>

I'll second the fuse idea.  As I recall the tail lights and dash lights are
on the same fuse.  It's the middle one.

Bill G
OKC, OK
'74 Spit, etc.

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Meyer
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2007 11:12 AM
To: spitfires at autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] Tail and dash light Gremlins

Guys,

When I first got my '78 Spitfire in 2000, I had intermittent electrical 
problems, most of which cleared up when I replaced the old frame ground 
strap.  I later upgraded to a GM alternator which improved most of the 
remaining, occasional problems.

I have had one issue, though, that got worse.  Years ago, the dash and tail 
lights would go out simultaneously.  The next day, they'd work.  This 
happened 6 or 7 times in the first two years of ownership.  So, I dismantled

all the lights, cleaned the contact surfaces, applied dielectric grease and 
re-assembled.  It appeared to solve the problem for a while.  Then it 
returned.  Recently I can't get the dash or tail-lights to work at all.  
Oddly, my left turn signal works in the rear, but not the right.

I'd really like some feedback on this.  Has anyone had the same problem?

I've pored over the wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual, and a really great

one that has the wiring in color that I found on-line.

It appears that all the affected lights share one common red wire that 
travels from the body harness under the dash to the rear of the car.  This 
doesn't explain the dash lights, though.  I jumpered the red wire at the 
harness plug to the rear of the car, and it didn't improve.  I unwrapped the

tape over most of the harness wiring, but couldn't find any obvious exposed 
copper or damaged insulation.  I'm stumped.

There is a black wire, the ground, that runs from the tail lamp housings 
toward the front of the car, but doesn't seem to have a pin in the body 
harness connector.  I tried tracing it, and I think it terminates at a nut 
on the firewall brace near the battery - several black wires join there and 
are linked by a cable on the same nut to the black Battery terminal.

At the tail, some wires have power - specifically, the fuel guage sender.  I

was not able to get the light to come on at any of the lamp positions 
affected.

I gently pulled the fuse box out to look over the harness connections.  They

all appear ok, but the middle fuse is connected to only one green wire with 
a red stripe.  Seems odd.

In desperation, I ordered a new body harness, 6 new lamp sockets, and new 
bulbs.  I also ordered a new dimmer for the dash lights, as it's part of the

same red-wire circuit.  I hate taking the shotgun approach, but I'm out of 
ideas and will need an inspection sticker next month.

From foxtrapper at ispwest.com  Tue Jun 26 08:57:08 2007
From: foxtrapper at ispwest.com (Nolan)
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2007 10:57:08 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Moisture from a concrete floor?
References: <20070625150106.4412066ecf79773770454ed1d3ca4b3c.386689140c.wbe@email.secureserver.net>
Message-ID: <002701c7b802$46753400$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us>

Concrete slabs certainly do wick vapors and moisture.  The classic test is 
to place board or such on the floor and let it sit for a few days, then pick 
it up.  If the floor and board are wet, well, you know the answer.

Now generally a car sits on its tires with several inches of clearance off 
the slab, so water isn't a problem.  And, being in Oklahoma, you've got even 
less water issues.  So I wouldn't be worried about it.

This is really an issue for people trying to finish a basement.  If you glue 
floor tiles down to the slab they tend to pop off.  Otherwise, just consider 
how the bare steel power tools and such look after many years in the 
basement or in the shop.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <bill at gingerich.us>
To: <NASS-club at yahoogroups.com>; <nass at yahoogroups.com>; 
<spitfires at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2007 6:01 PM
Subject: [Spits] Moisture from a concrete floor?


>   Greetings, All!
>
>   Over  the years, I've heard various comments about moisture coming out
>   of  concrete  floors and speeding the rusting process of metals stored
>   on  it.   You  know,  like  a  project  car  sitting in storage for an
>   extended  time.   So  my  question  is  this  -  Is  this,  in fact, a
>   concern?  I'm  going  to have to store 2 of my projects in an enclosed
>   steel  shed with  a  poured  concrete floor.  There will be no climate
>   control,  just  Oklahoma  heat,  humidity, etc.   Should  I  seal  the
>   concrete?   Put  down a piece of poly sheeting?  Buy one of those cool
>   but  expensive  inflatable plastic bubbles?  Not worry about it?  What
>   say you all?
>
>   Bill Gingerich
>
>   Newalla, OK
> _______________________________________________
> Spitfires mailing list
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires 

From maya2blue at juno.com  Tue Jun 26 12:22:57 2007
From: maya2blue at juno.com (Harve Thorn)
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2007 13:22:57 -0500
Subject: [Spits] size of shear bolts used in '78 Spitfire steering column
 lock/ignition switch
Message-ID: <20070626.132258.4648.0.maya2blue@juno.com>

Can anyone tell me the size of the shear bolts used in the '78 Spitfire
steering column lock/ignition switch? Is there a reference somewhere that
has various nut/bolt sizes? 

Many tks.

Harve
NASS #79

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Tue Jun 26 16:43:27 2007
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (David Woerpel)
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2007 17:43:27 -0500
Subject: [Spits] 79 Spitfire with SU carbs
Message-ID: <4681968F.6080202@wi.net>

Hello,

I am helping a friend with a 1979 Spitfire 1500.  He's removed the 
Zenith and installed 2 S.U. HS4's.  I'm one of the masochistic types 
that likes working on SU's and have no problem with the H4's on my MGA 
or H1's on the Bugeye Sprite but this problem has us stumped.

The car has been desmogged, the head lightly shaved (I don't know how 
much) and the rest is stock as far as we know.  It was running happily 
and he decided that he wanted SU's.  The carbs are set correctly. We 
started with the jet adjusting nut at 12 flats down (yes, they are 
centered).  The float levels are at 3/16", oil in the dashpot (1/2" 
above tube).  The car starts and runs on choke and the pistons rise 
equally but when the choke is gradually reduced after, 3-5 min., it 
starts to stall.  Add choke; it runs.  Push off the choke and it wants 
to die.  When we tried hand manipulating the throttle it occasionally 
coughs back through the carbs and dies.

The owner had ordered a new mechanical fuel pump which we installed.  It 
ran better off choke momentarily but then fuel poured out both float 
bowl overflows.  I know the mechanical pump isn't putting out too much 
pressure so I'm suspecting the float needle and seat.  New rubber tipped 
ones are on order.  The coughing back through the carbs makes me suspect 
timing but when it runs it's pretty smooth.  Just for kicks, what are 
the timing specs for a 79 1500?  He has no manual and mine are for my 
above cars.

Any suggestions would be very helpful.  Thanks in advance.

Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500
05 MCS
Burlington WI

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Jun 26 22:06:37 2007
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2007 00:06:37 -0400
Subject: [Spits] 79 Spitfire with SU carbs
In-Reply-To: <4681968F.6080202@wi.net>
Message-ID: <4681AA0D.18943.87400C0@localhost>

I'll give you credit for having the courage to show up on a Triumphs 
list with an MGA! :-)

On 26 Jun 2007 at 17:43, David Woerpel wrote:
> The car starts and runs on choke and the pistons rise 
> equally but when the choke is gradually reduced after, 3-5 min.,
> it starts to stall.  Add choke; it runs.

The fact that it runs with the choke pulled back on suggests that it 
has a bad air leak.  Does it blow black smoke with the choke pulled 
out?  And how much choke too?  Maybe those carbs had really worn 
throttle shafts?  Boy, they'd have to really worn though.

> It ran better off choke momentarily but then fuel poured out both
> float bowl overflows.

The momentary running well was obviously due to the excess gas.  One 
possibility is that the float valves were and still are sticking.  If 
the old pump couldn't keep the bowls full, then adding choke could 
help.  Apparently the new pump forced more gas through the valves.

Even so, a big air leak would still cause that behavior.  Forcing 
enough gas through to spill out of the bowls through the jets would 
enrichen the mixture and compensate for the air leak.  Getting it 
dialed in would be difficult because idle would greatly affected, I 
would think.  Could the vacuum retard unit have a split diaphram?  
(Is it hooked up?)

> The coughing back through the carbs makes me suspect 
> timing but when it runs it's pretty smooth.

Nnnnnmmmm, bad timing doesn't feel right.

> Just for kicks, what are the timing specs for a 79 1500?

Static 10BTDC, dynamic at idle 2ATDC.  Of course, the vacuum retard 
unit has to be hooked up for that dynamic spec to apply.

It's always possible that something else broke, but coincidences 
don't happen in cop shows and detective mystery books.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+



-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.9.8/869 - Release Date: 6/25/2007 5:32 PM

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Jun 26 23:05:29 2007
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2007 01:05:29 -0400
Subject: [Spits] 79 Spitfire with SU carbs
In-Reply-To: <4681968F.6080202@wi.net>
Message-ID: <4681B7D9.28452.8A9E621@localhost>

On 26 Jun 2007 at 17:43, David Woerpel wrote:

> The carbs are set correctly.

Your puzzle still puzzles me.  How do you mean the carbs are set 
correctly?  I assume that means you've gotten it to idle well and the 
problem is with actual running, not idling.

An air leak would normally get less significant as you opened the 
throttle, so if it idles well that probably isn't the cause.  
However...

A PO installed SUs on my GT6 but it had running problems.  At part 
throttle it ran lean, and full throttle rich.  I finally figured out 
that the piston springs were too soft, being for an MGB's 1800 4-cyl 
instead of the bigger-breathing 2000 6-cyl.  Projecting this problem 
on to you (probably not valid, I realize), if the springs are too 
soft, the mixture gets too lean quickly as you open the throttle.  
You didn't say where these SUs came from, and it's hard to imagine 
they came from a shallower-breathing engine than the Spitfire, but 
it's possible.  On the other hand, supposing one or more was broken 
or missing.  You might not notice it at idle because you aren't 
measuring just how much the pistons rise with a bit of throttle, but 
under running conditions it could be significant.  Have you checked 
them?  You being an MGA guy you probably did, I imagine.


-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+



-- 
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Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.9.8/869 - Release Date: 6/25/2007 5:32 PM

From maya2blue at juno.com  Wed Jun 27 08:46:32 2007
From: maya2blue at juno.com (Harve Thorn)
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2007 09:46:32 -0500
Subject: [Spits] shear bolts solved!
Message-ID: <20070627.094632.5480.2.maya2blue@juno.com>

Ahhh simplicity!!  I love the solution by Paul Geithner and Harold
O'Reilly ...  just cut screwdriver slots in them and unscrew them. Then,
reuse them!! 

Many tks also to Jack Kagy, Jim (britbits at tiu.net ), and Mike Ross for
sending me the actual size - 5/16" x3/4" UNF  (18 pitch )

Many many tks!

Harve Thorn
NASS #79

From Mackmi at usa.redcross.org  Wed Jun 27 08:55:11 2007
From: Mackmi at usa.redcross.org (Mackmi at usa.redcross.org)
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2007 10:55:11 -0400
Subject: [Spits] shear bolts solved!
Message-ID: <FACFDCD78A15E345BD5940312C78C1460B9CD5FC@brnyrchex1.bio.ri.redcross.net>

A dremel tool will cut the slot in the head of the bolt with ease.
Mike Mack
79 Spit
70 GT6
74 VW Thing
90 Mustang 5.0


-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Harve Thorn
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 10:47 AM
To: nass at yahoogroups.com; NASS-club at yahoogroups.com;
spitfires at autox.team.net; spitfire-enthusiast at yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Spits] shear bolts solved!

Ahhh simplicity!!  I love the solution by Paul Geithner and Harold
O'Reilly ...  just cut screwdriver slots in them and unscrew them. Then,
reuse them!!

Many tks also to Jack Kagy, Jim (britbits at tiu.net ), and Mike Ross for
sending me the actual size - 5/16" x3/4" UNF  (18 pitch )

Many many tks!

Harve Thorn
NASS #79
_______________________________________________
Spitfires mailing list
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

From doug at dougbraun.com  Wed Jun 27 09:16:40 2007
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2007 08:16:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] shear bolts solved!
In-Reply-To: <20070627.094632.5480.2.maya2blue@juno.com>
Message-ID: <281671.72935.qm@web611.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

But then somebody could steal your car!

Doug Braun
'72 Spit


--- Harve Thorn <maya2blue at juno.com> wrote:

> Ahhh simplicity!!  I love the solution by Paul
> Geithner and Harold
> O'Reilly ...  just cut screwdriver slots in them and
> unscrew them. Then,
> reuse them!! 

From paulfmeyer at msn.com  Wed Jun 27 11:16:09 2007
From: paulfmeyer at msn.com (Paul Meyer)
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2007 13:16:09 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Tail and dash light Gremlins
In-Reply-To: <004201c7b79c$dc9e6de0$64dea8c0@shack2>
Message-ID: <BAY110-F33A29FE54CA76C4E89E80FCD0A0@phx.gbl>

Thanks to everyone who replied.

As I've said many times to people who ask about my car,
I couldn't imagine owning a car like this without the help of the on-line 
community.

So the summary opinions are:
the fuse block connection (middle fuse)
Bullet connections (all)
Ground at lights (all)

The middle fuse has given me trouble before, so I'll look at that.
Harness and lamp sockets are on the way, so hopefully that tackles the 
connectors.




Paul F. Meyer

Home Phone:    781-551-8574
Cell Phone:       781-801-3170
e-mail:               paulfmeyer at msn.com




----Original Message Follows----
From: "Bill Gingerich" <bill at gingerich.us>
To: "'Paul Meyer'" <paulfmeyer at msn.com>,<spitfires at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Spits] Tail and dash light Gremlins
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 21:51:13 -0500

I'll second the fuse idea.  As I recall the tail lights and dash lights are
on the same fuse.  It's the middle one.

Bill G
OKC, OK
'74 Spit, etc.

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Meyer
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2007 11:12 AM
To: spitfires at autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] Tail and dash light Gremlins

Guys,

When I first got my '78 Spitfire in 2000, I had intermittent electrical
problems, most of which cleared up when I replaced the old frame ground
strap.  I later upgraded to a GM alternator which improved most of the
remaining, occasional problems.

I have had one issue, though, that got worse.  Years ago, the dash and tail
lights would go out simultaneously.  The next day, they'd work.  This
happened 6 or 7 times in the first two years of ownership.  So, I dismantled

all the lights, cleaned the contact surfaces, applied dielectric grease and
re-assembled.  It appeared to solve the problem for a while.  Then it
returned.  Recently I can't get the dash or tail-lights to work at all.
Oddly, my left turn signal works in the rear, but not the right.

I'd really like some feedback on this.  Has anyone had the same problem?

I've pored over the wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual, and a really great

one that has the wiring in color that I found on-line.

It appears that all the affected lights share one common red wire that
travels from the body harness under the dash to the rear of the car.  This
doesn't explain the dash lights, though.  I jumpered the red wire at the
harness plug to the rear of the car, and it didn't improve.  I unwrapped the

tape over most of the harness wiring, but couldn't find any obvious exposed
copper or damaged insulation.  I'm stumped.

There is a black wire, the ground, that runs from the tail lamp housings
toward the front of the car, but doesn't seem to have a pin in the body
harness connector.  I tried tracing it, and I think it terminates at a nut
on the firewall brace near the battery - several black wires join there and
are linked by a cable on the same nut to the black Battery terminal.

At the tail, some wires have power - specifically, the fuel guage sender.  I

was not able to get the light to come on at any of the lamp positions
affected.

I gently pulled the fuse box out to look over the harness connections.  They

all appear ok, but the middle fuse is connected to only one green wire with
a red stripe.  Seems odd.

In desperation, I ordered a new body harness, 6 new lamp sockets, and new
bulbs.  I also ordered a new dimmer for the dash lights, as it's part of the

same red-wire circuit.  I hate taking the shotgun approach, but I'm out of
ideas and will need an inspection sticker next month.

_________________________________________________________________
Make every IM count. Download Messenger and join the im Initiative now. 
Its free. http://im.live.com/messenger/im/home/?source=TAGHM_June07

From paulfmeyer at msn.com  Wed Jun 27 11:56:39 2007
From: paulfmeyer at msn.com (Paul Meyer)
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2007 13:56:39 -0400
Subject: [Spits] 79 Spitfire with SU carbs
In-Reply-To: <4681968F.6080202@wi.net>
Message-ID: <BAY110-F29955E7F9A29E4EFFBAA0DCD0A0@phx.gbl>

Several years ago I swapped carbs on my '78.
Similar fuel problems resulted, which were eventually identified as being 
caused by the new carb requiring less fuel pressure.  Idle was ok, but as 
soon as I increased rpm or fiddled with the choke, it would roughen or 
stall.  I too replaced the fuel pump, but that only made things worse.


I put in a cheap, in-line fuel pressure regulator, and got some improvement, 
but the cheap regulator caused flow problems in high rev conditions.

Ultimately, I put in a higher quality fuel pressure regulator, and that 
solved it.



Paul F. Meyer

Home Phone:    781-551-8574
Cell Phone:       781-801-3170
e-mail:               paulfmeyer at msn.com




----Original Message Follows----
From: David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
To: spitfires at autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] 79 Spitfire with SU carbs
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2007 17:43:27 -0500

Hello,

I am helping a friend with a 1979 Spitfire 1500.  He's removed the
Zenith and installed 2 S.U. HS4's.  I'm one of the masochistic types
that likes working on SU's and have no problem with the H4's on my MGA
or H1's on the Bugeye Sprite but this problem has us stumped.

The car has been desmogged, the head lightly shaved (I don't know how
much) and the rest is stock as far as we know.  It was running happily
and he decided that he wanted SU's.  The carbs are set correctly. We
started with the jet adjusting nut at 12 flats down (yes, they are
centered).  The float levels are at 3/16", oil in the dashpot (1/2"
above tube).  The car starts and runs on choke and the pistons rise
equally but when the choke is gradually reduced after, 3-5 min., it
starts to stall.  Add choke; it runs.  Push off the choke and it wants
to die.  When we tried hand manipulating the throttle it occasionally
coughs back through the carbs and dies.

The owner had ordered a new mechanical fuel pump which we installed.  It
ran better off choke momentarily but then fuel poured out both float
bowl overflows.  I know the mechanical pump isn't putting out too much
pressure so I'm suspecting the float needle and seat.  New rubber tipped
ones are on order.  The coughing back through the carbs makes me suspect
timing but when it runs it's pretty smooth.  Just for kicks, what are
the timing specs for a 79 1500?  He has no manual and mine are for my
above cars.

Any suggestions would be very helpful.  Thanks in advance.

Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500
05 MCS
Burlington WI
_______________________________________________
Spitfires mailing list
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

_________________________________________________________________
PC Magazines 2007 editors choice for best Web mailaward-winning Windows 
Live Hotmail. 
http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_mini_pcmag_0507

From npenberthy at yahoo.com  Wed Jun 27 12:12:14 2007
From: npenberthy at yahoo.com (Neil Penberthy)
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2007 11:12:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] 79 Spitfire with SU carbs
Message-ID: <715217.15028.qm@web56305.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

I'd suggest checking that you have the right needle. Also you mentioned some modification to the motor - head skimming - relatively small changes to the stock set up can require non standard needles etc. The exhaust was swapped on my car and with the stock needles it would barely run.

Also was the head work done at the same time as the carb install? There may be all kinds of factors in play if that is the case. Assuming that the head work is OK there can still be all kinds of unforeseen issues such as reversion issues etc.

I think we need more information to really get to the bottom of you problem.

Good luck!

Neil


       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. 
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545433

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Wed Jun 27 14:58:43 2007
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2007 16:58:43 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Recalls & Smart Laws
Message-ID: <00dc01c7b8fd$f29b01f0$8d1f7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

Listers, on all the news programs this a/m, there will be a recall on several
brands of tires made in Japan, including Yokohomo's, warnings are supposed to
be out in a few days as to the dangers of these tires, sort-a like Firestones
from a few years ago. New Virginia law effective on Monday July 2, 2007,
failure to give hand signal or turn signal regular cost of court plus fine,
then DMV will charge a "FEE" from $1050.00 for 1st offense to $3,000 when you
pass two, ==YES== three thousand dollars== , cheaper to go out and rob a 7/11.
"FT"

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Jun 27 21:00:17 2007
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J. Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2007 21:00:17 -0600
Subject: [Spits] Recalls & Smart Laws
In-Reply-To: <00dc01c7b8fd$f29b01f0$8d1f7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
References: <00dc01c7b8fd$f29b01f0$8d1f7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <46832441.3040606@bradakis.com>

> New Virginia law effective on Monday July 2, 2007,
>failure to give hand signal or turn signal regular cost of court plus fine,
>then DMV will charge a "FEE" from $1050.00 for 1st offense to $3,000 when you
>pass two, ==YES== three thousand dollars== 
>
Cool!!  People who are so dangerously stupid they can't signal turns
and lane changes have no business being on public streets.

mjb.

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Wed Jun 27 23:43:35 2007
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (David Woerpel)
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2007 00:43:35 -0500
Subject: [Spits] 79 Spitfire with SU carbs
In-Reply-To: <715217.15028.qm@web56305.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
References: <715217.15028.qm@web56305.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <46834A87.5080102@wi.net>

Thanks to all who have responded.  We've ordered some parts and made 
some calls.  Joe Curto told me that he's had a few TR's come in with 
after-market MECHANICAL pumps that are putting out too high a pressure.  
Anyone else run into that?  We'll put the old pump back on or get a good 
regulator and gauge.   The carbs are FZX 1258's which calls for a 
standard metering needle of "ABT".  Also, I hate to admit I didn't 
notice that there were no piston springs (I'm used to working on H1's 
for the Bugeye which have no springs but I should have caught that 
anyway...duh.)

Given the fact that the car is desmogged is the timing still 10* BTDC?

Neil, I'm not sure what you mean by "reversion" issues?  I shall find 
the answers to your questions.

Again thanks for the help...we'll see what Thursday brings!
Dave

Neil Penberthy wrote:
> I'd suggest checking that you have the right needle. Also you mentioned some modification to the motor - head skimming - relatively small changes to the stock set up can require non standard needles etc. The exhaust was swapped on my car and with the stock needles it would barely run.
>
> Also was the head work done at the same time as the carb install? There may be all kinds of factors in play if that is the case. Assuming that the head work is OK there can still be all kinds of unforeseen issues such as reversion issues etc.
>
> I think we need more information to really get to the bottom of you problem.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Neil

From jfreynolds_99 at yahoo.com  Thu Jun 28 09:17:02 2007
From: jfreynolds_99 at yahoo.com (John Reynolds)
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2007 08:17:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] [TR] Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix, British Car Day,
 TRF  Summer  Party & VTR
In-Reply-To: <00b301c7b92a$9024e310$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
Message-ID: <20070628151702.46259.qmail@web30713.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Listers,
I plan on attending the VTR Nationals and would like
to attend the events in Pittsburgh also. I am
wondering how the TRF summer party fits in. If one
attends British Car Day and the Pittsburgh Vintage GP
there does not seem to be any time for other events. I
certainly do not want to drive from Pittsburgh to
Johnstown every night for TRF events. Am I missing
something?
John Reynolds
Houston, TX

--- Jerry Van  Vlack <jerryvv at adelphia.net> wrote:

> Fellow Triumph Enthusiasts:
> 
> Wow a lot of discussion these past few weeks about
> events associated with our
> cars and what's happening throughout Pennsylvania in
> early July. I'd like to
> plug the early part of these events for those of you
> interested in
> participating in the TRF Summer Party prior to VTR.
> Charles has written about
> his Summer Party Plans which include one of the
> premier if not the most unique
> Vintage Sports Car Races being held for it's 25th
> year.
> 
> It's the PVGP or the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix,
> Here is a link to an
> article in the Pittsburgh Post Gazette and a link to
> the PVGP Web page too.
> 
> http://www.post-gazette.com/pg/07178/797518-100.stm
>
http://www.pittsburghvintagegrandprix.com/pvgp/site/default.asp
> 
> There is no cost for viewing this event but parking
> is not easy either. There
> is a simple solution for that too and it's the 27th
> annual Western
> Pennsylvania Triumph Association's British Car Day
> held on the Schenley Park
> Golf Course overlooking the race track which winds
> it's way through the park
> roads and adjoining city streets of the Oakland
> section of Pittsburgh. Oakland
> is where the University of Pittsburgh and Carnegie
> Mellon University are
> located. For the entrance fee of $20.00 you get to
> park your British Car
> (only) among the other BCD Entrants which in the
> past have totaled close to
> 400 cars. In addition to the races and BCD there are
> several other special
> marque car shows both domestic and foreign. It's an
> overdose of the motoring
> hobby.
> 
> 
> Here is a link to the registration form and more
> information about WPTA's
> BCD.
> 
> http://wptriumph.org/bcd/bcd2007.html
> 
> If you are planning to participate in the TRF Summer
> Party this is the main
> Saturday event and it's one you don't want to miss.
> I encourage you to
> register for BCD using the above link to the WPTA.
> You can register the day of
> the show but it will cost a little more and may
> result in a delay entering the
> show field. The fees are donated to the Charities of
> the PVGP and you can read
> all about them on the PVGP web site.
> 
> I invite and hope to see many of you there.
> 
> Regards to all.
> Jerry Van Vlack
> 
> PS if the links don't work for some reason write to
> me and I'll send them to
> you on an individual basis.
> 
> Your messages not reaching the list?
> Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html
> 
> ===  This list supported in part by The Vintage
> Triumph Register
> ===     http://www.vtr.org
> 
> ===  Help keep Team.Net on the air:   
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
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> ===  Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
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> 



      ____________________________________________________________________________________
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From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Thu Jun 28 10:22:17 2007
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2007 12:22:17 -0400
Subject: [Spits] [British-cars] Recalls & Smart Laws
References: <c74.fff2546.33b52e35@aol.com>
Message-ID: <00b101c7b9a0$7efbb700$83167247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

Seems I am in need of a hearing aid or more training on lip reading, the news
announcer did say "coming-up, recall on popular Japanese tires", after the
commerical came the stroy and she said "China", very, very sorry to all,
especially YoK0's drivers.  "FT"

From s1500 at comcast.net  Thu Jun 28 12:13:54 2007
From: s1500 at comcast.net (S1500)
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2007 13:13:54 -0500
Subject: [Spits] Radio problems
Message-ID: <4683FA62.8020800@comcast.net>

I took my Spit out just to get the cobwebs out(due to me not insuring it 
this year), and it drove better than ever. Some intentional shifting at 
high rpms(drivin' it hard) resulted in zero slippage of the clutch.

Which leads me to a problem I'm almost grateful to have: the radio is 
now on the fritz. If I keep it at low volume, it works. If I try to dare 
move it up in volume, I hear nothing but a faint ticking sound.

Know what it might be? Friend said the rheostat that is the volume 
control is the problem. Would squirting some WD-40 inside it fix it, or 
just make a big 'ol mess? The wiring is in great shape, having checked 
it a few times and fixing any breakages when I put the transmission back 
in.

From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com  Thu Jun 28 13:05:11 2007
From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2007 15:05:11 -0400
Subject: [Spits] 79 Spitfire with SU carbs
Message-ID: <OFBD80DD4B.D6E8CE39-ON85257308.00688FC6-85257308.0068C9C6@exxonmobil.com>

I replaced my 80 Spitfire's original mechanical fuel pump last year due to
it leaking from several parts of it's body onto the starter motor.  I have
been suspicious for some time that it was sending too much pressure to the
carbs, especially at idle.

Your problem sure sounds like an air leak to me.  Did you replace the
exhaust/inlet to head gasket?

Mark

From: David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
Subject: Re: [Spits] 79 Spitfire with SU carbs
To: spitfires at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <46834A87.5080102 at wi.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Thanks to all who have responded.  We've ordered some parts and made
some calls.  Joe Curto told me that he's had a few TR's come in with
after-market MECHANICAL pumps that are putting out too high a pressure.
Anyone else run into that?  We'll put the old pump back on or get a good
regulator and gauge.   The carbs are FZX 1258's which calls for a
standard metering needle of "ABT".  Also, I hate to admit I didn't
notice that there were no piston springs (I'm used to working on H1's
for the Bugeye which have no springs but I should have caught that
anyway...duh.)

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Thu Jun 28 14:10:19 2007
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2007 12:10:19 -0800
Subject: [Spits] Palo Alto British Meet's Final Year At El Camino Park
Message-ID: <v01520d06c2a9b440bc30@[4.231.173.55]>

A message to all West Coast/California people on this list 

Palo Alto British Car Meet's Final Year At El Camino Park

Dear Readers,
It is with great regret that I must report that this year will be the last for the 30-year-old Palo Alto British Car Meet at El Camino Park. 

DON'T FRET - WE'LL STILL BE PUTTING ON THE SAME EVENT AT A NEW LOCATION!

The park is going to be reconstructed into an emergency reservoir for Palo Alto and rebuilt using astroturf on the fields. No more car shows as oil and gas will damage the new surface. 

We are planning the same show that you all have come to expect - arcane cars, lawn, jazz, proper British breakfasts and lunches and prizes in a bunch of classes. Come join us for the final British car extravaganza at El Camino Park on September 8th & 9th, 2007

We are already looking for a new venue for 2008 and we will keep you posted in The British Car Network. We would like to thank all of you, especially the marque clubs, for 30 years of enthusiastic support and all of the fun and good cheer that you have brought to these meets and our hobby in general. 

Long live the British car and the people who cherish them .........

Best,
Rick Feibusch,
British Car Network
Palo Alto British Car Meet Coordinator 

If you would like to join the British Car Network and know about all of the California British car events and stories of British Automotive intrest, email:  <rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net>, and ask to be put on the list - This list is privately held, non-commercial and not available to spammers.

*****************************************************

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Thu Jun 28 14:10:38 2007
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2007 12:10:38 -0800
Subject: [Spits] Palo Alto British Car Meet 2007
Message-ID: <v01520d13c2a9b7296b3c@[4.231.173.55]>

******************************************************

    THE 2007 PALO ALTO BRITISH CAR MEET 
El Camino Park - Just Across From Stanford Center

  September Eighth & Ninth  

Join us for the most historic British automotive lawn event in California. 400 quirky, classic, and thoroughly lovable British cars are once again expected to grace the field at El Camino Park for the 29th Annual Palo Alto British Car Meet.

 SUNDAY CAR SHOW - SEPTEMBER 9th - 9:00AM - 5:00PM 

Join your British car friends for a smashing day at the park. Don't have a show car? Don't worry!  Daily drivers, vintage racers, street rods & works-in-progress are as welcome as Concours quality restorations. British food, jazz, and more fun than you'll be able to tolerate!  This year there will be individual marque awards in a minimum of 15 classes. 

We will start placing cars on the field at about 9:AM and the fun goes on all day!  There is no preregistration and all entrants will receive a commemorative gift. The registration fee is $25 per car at the gate. Joining us again this year will be the cool little cars from around the world in the Arcane Auto Society.  Spectators attend for free.

 SATURDAY BACKROAD TOUR TO THE SEA - SEPTEMBER 8th

The British Car Meet TOUR TO THE SEA starts at El Camino Park in Palo Alto - the same place as the Sunday Car Show.  We will be sending cars off between 8:30 and 10:30AM. A map will be provided. This is a no-cost option for people who like to drive their cars as well as show 'em. The tour ends at Cameron's Pub in Half Moon Bay where we will be kicking tyres and telling tall tales well into the afternoon.

 SATURDAY SWAP MEET - SEPTEMBER 8th - 8:00AM - 11:00AM

We are trying to bring back this event this year - more details as they  become available ...... tentatively 8:00AM - 11:00AM in Santa Clara

 DIRECTIONS TO EL CAMINO PARK:

El Camino Park is located on the El Camino, just north of University Ave, opposite Stanford Center. From 101 take University Ave. west, go under the Alma Street overpass, and turn right onto the El Camino Real. From 280, take the Sandhill Road Exit east and turn right on the El Camino, stay to the right to the University Ave exit, turn left at the overpass, then left again back onto the El Camino heading north. PLEASE, DO NOT PARK TRAILERS IN THE STANFORD CENTER PARKING LOT!  Trailer parking will be available on-site on the south field baseball diamond. 

Call for information: 310-392-6605
e-mail: <rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net>
*************************************************

From jbaustian at cox.net  Thu Jun 28 14:08:31 2007
From: jbaustian at cox.net (Jim Baustian)
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2007 15:08:31 -0500
Subject: [Spits] Windshield frame seals - GT6+
Message-ID: <C095F764-1BF3-4DEC-9C82-F8F99551AD48@cox.net>

The GT6 Workshop Manual from Standard-Triumph describes a procedure  
for the process of replacing these seals. A quick summary is as follows:
1. Peal back the head liner to gain access to two bolts fastening the  
top of the windshield frame to the top of the car. Remove the bolts.
2. Remove the three bolts that fasten the bottom edge of the  
windshield frame to the car body.
Very little additional information is offered. Answers to the  
following concerns would be greatly appreciated:
1. Will removal of the five bolts mentioned above provide enough  
clearance to remove and replace these seals?
2. Is prying necessary?
3. "Pealing back" a 38 year old headliner could easily require  
replacement of the headliner. The Triumph-Standard manual has  
instructions for this replacement.  Any suggestions gained from  
experience?
Jim Baustian
jbaustian at cox.net

From w4eae at netzero.net  Thu Jun 28 14:12:00 2007
From: w4eae at netzero.net (Gene Eighmy)
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2007 15:12:00 -0500
Subject: [Spits] Radio problems
In-Reply-To: <4683FA62.8020800@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000e01c7b9c0$96a1bd30$68fca8c0@GEIGHMY>

WD-40 may not be a good idea.  Try contact cleaner from Radio Shack or an
electronic supply house.

Gene



> -----Original Message-----
> From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of S1500
> Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 1:14 PM
> To: spitfires at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Spits] Radio problems
> 
> I took my Spit out just to get the cobwebs out(due to me not insuring it
> this year), and it drove better than ever. Some intentional shifting at
> high rpms(drivin' it hard) resulted in zero slippage of the clutch.
> 
> Which leads me to a problem I'm almost grateful to have: the radio is
> now on the fritz. If I keep it at low volume, it works. If I try to dare
> move it up in volume, I hear nothing but a faint ticking sound.
> 
> Know what it might be? Friend said the rheostat that is the volume
> control is the problem. Would squirting some WD-40 inside it fix it, or
> just make a big 'ol mess? The wiring is in great shape, having checked
> it a few times and fixing any breakages when I put the transmission back
> in.
> _______________________________________________
> Spitfires mailing list
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

From elliottr at rmi.net  Fri Jun 29 17:25:34 2007
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2007 18:25:34 -0500
Subject: [Spits] 79 Spitfire with SU carbs
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-F29955E7F9A29E4EFFBAA0DCD0A0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY110-F29955E7F9A29E4EFFBAA0DCD0A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <468594EE.8050600@rmi.net>

I have been chasing similar problems for quite a while.  It never 
occurred to me that the problem could be too high of fuel pressure.

What did you need to set the pressure at to make the car run correctly?  
I stopped at Napa, they had one that could be adjusted 2 - 4 pounds and 
one that could be adjusted 4-9 pounds.

Thanks,

Roger Elliott

Paul Meyer wrote:
> Several years ago I swapped carbs on my '78.
> Similar fuel problems resulted, which were eventually identified as being 
> caused by the new carb requiring less fuel pressure.  Idle was ok, but as 
> soon as I increased rpm or fiddled with the choke, it would roughen or 
> stall.  I too replaced the fuel pump, but that only made things worse.
>
>
> I put in a cheap, in-line fuel pressure regulator, and got some improvement, 
> but the cheap regulator caused flow problems in high rev conditions.
>
> Ultimately, I put in a higher quality fuel pressure regulator, and that 
> solved it.
>
>
>
> Paul F. Meyer
>
> Home Phone:    781-551-8574
> Cell Phone:       781-801-3170
> e-mail:               paulfmeyer at msn.com
>
>
>
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
> To: spitfires at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Spits] 79 Spitfire with SU carbs
> Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2007 17:43:27 -0500
>
> Hello,
>
> I am helping a friend with a 1979 Spitfire 1500.  He's removed the
> Zenith and installed 2 S.U. HS4's.  I'm one of the masochistic types
> that likes working on SU's and have no problem with the H4's on my MGA
> or H1's on the Bugeye Sprite but this problem has us stumped.
>
> The car has been desmogged, the head lightly shaved (I don't know how
> much) and the rest is stock as far as we know.  It was running happily
> and he decided that he wanted SU's.  The carbs are set correctly. We
> started with the jet adjusting nut at 12 flats down (yes, they are
> centered).  The float levels are at 3/16", oil in the dashpot (1/2"
> above tube).  The car starts and runs on choke and the pistons rise
> equally but when the choke is gradually reduced after, 3-5 min., it
> starts to stall.  Add choke; it runs.  Push off the choke and it wants
> to die.  When we tried hand manipulating the throttle it occasionally
> coughs back through the carbs and dies.
>
> The owner had ordered a new mechanical fuel pump which we installed.  It
> ran better off choke momentarily but then fuel poured out both float
> bowl overflows.  I know the mechanical pump isn't putting out too much
> pressure so I'm suspecting the float needle and seat.  New rubber tipped
> ones are on order.  The coughing back through the carbs makes me suspect
> timing but when it runs it's pretty smooth.  Just for kicks, what are
> the timing specs for a 79 1500?  He has no manual and mine are for my
> above cars.
>
> Any suggestions would be very helpful.  Thanks in advance.
>
> Dave
> 59 :{)
> 59 MGA 1500
> 05 MCS
> Burlington WI
> _______________________________________________
> Spitfires mailing list
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> PC Magazines 2007 editors choice for best Web mailaward-winning Windows 
> Live Hotmail. 
> http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_mini_pcmag_0507
> _______________________________________________
> Spitfires mailing list
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Sat Jun 30 08:27:57 2007
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (David Woerpel)
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2007 09:27:57 -0500
Subject: [Spits] 79 Spitfire with SU carbs
In-Reply-To: <468594EE.8050600@rmi.net>
References: <BAY110-F29955E7F9A29E4EFFBAA0DCD0A0@phx.gbl>
	<468594EE.8050600@rmi.net>
Message-ID: <4686686D.9050908@wi.net>

Roger,
2 - 2 1/2 lbs. is all SU's need.  Get a regulator and a guage.  Mount 
the guage on a "T" downstream of the regulator.  The regulators with the 
numbers on them aren't all that accurate.

I have to ask again........Should this 79 1500 with SU's and a couple of 
thou skimmed from the head still be timed to 10* BTDC?
Dave
Burlington WI


Roger Elliott wrote:
> I have been chasing similar problems for quite a while.  It never 
> occurred to me that the problem could be too high of fuel pressure.
>
> What did you need to set the pressure at to make the car run correctly?  
> I stopped at Napa, they had one that could be adjusted 2 - 4 pounds and 
> one that could be adjusted 4-9 pounds.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Roger Elliott
>
> Paul Meyer wrote:
>   
>> Several years ago I swapped carbs on my '78.
>> Similar fuel problems resulted, which were eventually identified as being 
>> caused by the new carb requiring less fuel pressure.  Idle was ok, but as 
>> soon as I increased rpm or fiddled with the choke, it would roughen or 
>> stall.  I too replaced the fuel pump, but that only made things worse.
>>
>>
>> I put in a cheap, in-line fuel pressure regulator, and got some improvement, 
>> but the cheap regulator caused flow problems in high rev conditions.
>>
>> Ultimately, I put in a higher quality fuel pressure regulator, and that 
>> solved it.
>>
>>
>>
>> Paul F. Meyer
>>
>> Home Phone:    781-551-8574
>> Cell Phone:       781-801-3170
>> e-mail:               paulfmeyer at msn.com

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Sat Jun 30 12:49:23 2007
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (David Woerpel)
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2007 13:49:23 -0500
Subject: [Spits] 79 Spitfire with SU carbs
In-Reply-To: <46869860.3090709@rmi.net>
References: <BAY110-F29955E7F9A29E4EFFBAA0DCD0A0@phx.gbl>
	<468594EE.8050600@rmi.net> <4686686D.9050908@wi.net>
	<46869860.3090709@rmi.net>
Message-ID: <4686A5B3.4040104@wi.net>

Thanks Roger.  Here's more pieces to the puzzle.
Owner put on the original fuel pump and no more overflow!  Yay!  The new 
pump we measured at 3-3 1/2 lbs. which apparently caused the overflow.  
Owner then drove the car and it was fairly smooth to ~3200rpms at which 
point it started stumbling so he parked it.

When I got there, we determined TDC and noted the rotor was firing #1 
(Lucas Electronic) as the sensor was opposite the pick-up(not sure what 
the nomenclature is as I'm a points/condensor man myself).  So we set it 
to 10*BTDC and started the engine.  I then reset the mixture and synched 
the carbs.  It ran well and the engine revved smoothly so we took it for 
a drive.  It started stumbling and backfiring ~ 4000rpms but was really 
good up to that point.  So we rotated the distributor a bit and I got it 
up to 5200 before it stumbled.  But once it started to stumble the 
'stumble limit' (not a character from Harry Potter) became lower until 
we were around 4000 again.  The pinch bolt is tight so that didn't slip 
and we drew an index line so we could check for that. 

The stumble or miss almost has me wondering about the ignition or dizzy 
advance.  How does one check to see if the centrifugal or vacuum advance 
is working?  But most important is what is causing the problem at higher 
rpms??

We're getting closer!!   I really appreciate your help and the what a 
great car!!
Dave
Burlington WI

Roger Elliott wrote:
> Hi David,
>
> Thanks for the info.
> 10 BTDC seems to be the standard timing on the British version that 
> had a higher compression ratio than the US.  So I think that is what I 
> would try.
>
> Roger

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Sat Jun 30 21:25:16 2007
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (David Woerpel)
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2007 22:25:16 -0500
Subject: [Spits] 79 Spitfire with SU carbs
In-Reply-To: <20070630200226.ZOQH12686.aa04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>
References: <BAY110-F29955E7F9A29E4EFFBAA0DCD0A0@phx.gbl>
	<468594EE.8050600@rmi.net> <4686686D.9050908@wi.net>
	<46869860.3090709@rmi.net> <4686A5B3.4040104@wi.net>
	<20070630200226.ZOQH12686.aa04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>
Message-ID: <46871E9C.904@wi.net>

Jeff started me thinking, which is very dangerous.  If an engine has 
been de-smogged, would the plug gap be different?
Should we be treating this car like a non-U.S. 1500?  Which data should 
we use from the following web-site?
http://www.triumphspitfire.com/Tuning.html

more questions; always more questions!
Dave
Burlington WI

Jeff Scarbrough wrote:
> At 02:49 PM 6/30/2007, you wrote:
>> The stumble or miss almost has me wondering about the ignition or dizzy
>> advance.  How does one check to see if the centrifugal or vacuum advance
>> is working?  But most important is what is causing the problem at higher
>> rpms??
>
> Have you replaced the plugs, checked the gap, and or the wires, cap, 
> rotor, and coil?
>
> Cheers,
> Jeff

From doug at dougbraun.com  Sat Jun 30 22:03:32 2007
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2007 21:03:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] 79 Spitfire with SU carbs
In-Reply-To: <46871E9C.904@wi.net>
Message-ID: <734162.64443.qm@web607.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

It looks like all the plug gaps in that table are the
same: 0.025".

Doug Braun
'72 Spit


--- David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net> wrote:

> Jeff started me thinking, which is very dangerous. 
> If an engine has 
> been de-smogged, would the plug gap be different?
> Should we be treating this car like a non-U.S. 1500?
>  Which data should 
> we use from the following web-site?
> http://www.triumphspitfire.com/Tuning.html
> 
> more questions; always more questions!
> Dave
> Burlington WI

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sat Jun 30 23:05:09 2007
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 01 Jul 2007 01:05:09 -0400
Subject: [Spits] 79 Spitfire with SU carbs
In-Reply-To: <46871E9C.904@wi.net>
References: <20070630200226.ZOQH12686.aa04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>
Message-ID: <4686FDC5.31224.3AB5360@localhost>

On 30 Jun 2007 at 22:25, David Woerpel wrote:

> If an engine has 
> been de-smogged, would the plug gap be different?

No.  Nor would the point gap (i.e. dwell angle).

My 1500 has been demogged and it has the 1976 head with 9.0:1 
compression ratio, original carb.  I've experimented with the timing 
to get it to accept modern gas, and no change (within reason) in the 
timing would make it behave the way you describe.  I don't think your 
stumble is due to using North American tuning specs.

You need to make sure your coil, points, condensor, and plugs (and 
wiring connections) are good.  I've never experienced a bad coil but 
if I recall correctly it might cause a high-speed stumble.  Another 
thing to consider is that your plugs might be getting fouled, which 
is why the rpms of stumble onset seemed to come back down after you 
got it raised.  That could be the result of a bad mixture.  Given the 
carb-swap I suspect that.  But first try swapping coil with a known 
good one.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+



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