From buss3 at rogers.com  Sun Jul  1 08:16:38 2007
From: buss3 at rogers.com (Grant Buss)
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2007 10:16:38 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Gas guage
Message-ID: <002c01c7bbea$70869cc0$6500a8c0@FUNPLACE>

Morning everyone
I have a slight problem with my gas gauge. It reads a 1/4 tank off. When it
shows 1/4 tank it is really 1/2 tank. My Temp gauge appears to be OK. I don't
think there is anything wrong inside the tank. I think the voltage at the
gauge should be 10 volts. How do you test it?
            Thanks to everyone Grant

From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jul  1 08:24:05 2007
From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Bob Berger)
Date: Sun, 01 Jul 2007 09:24:05 -0500
Subject: [Spits] Gas gauge
In-Reply-To: <002c01c7bbea$70869cc0$6500a8c0@FUNPLACE>
Message-ID: <C2AD2335.887%bberger720@sbcglobal.net>

Grant,

Have you pulled the sender out of the tank.  The floats will leak over time
and cause the reading to be off.  My float is 1/4 full of gas and I'm just
waiting for needing other parts to place an order.

Make sure to wait till you have less than 1/2 a tank of gas before removing
the sender.

Bob Berger
78 Spitfire


> From: Grant Buss <buss3 at rogers.com>
> Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2007 10:16:38 -0400
> To: spitfires-list <spitfires at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Spits] Gas guage
> 
> Morning everyone
> I have a slight problem with my gas gauge. It reads a 1/4 tank off. When it
> shows 1/4 tank it is really 1/2 tank. My Temp gauge appears to be OK. I don't
> think there is anything wrong inside the tank. I think the voltage at the
> gauge should be 10 volts. How do you test it?
>             Thanks to everyone Grant
> _______________________________________________
> Spitfires mailing list
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

From doug at dougbraun.com  Sun Jul  1 13:23:06 2007
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2007 12:23:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] Gas guage
In-Reply-To: <002c01c7bbea$70869cc0$6500a8c0@FUNPLACE>
Message-ID: <245975.55878.qm@web610.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I bet something IS wrong inside the gas tank.  Both
gauges are powered by the same voltage regulator.

I believe you can disconnect the sender unit and
replace it with a fixed resistance that should produce
a particular gauge reading, but I don't know that that
resistance is :-(

But I bet there is a 90% chance you need a new sender
anyway.  One other possibility is that the electrical
part is OK, but the float is flooded and not floating
properly.  You can get a new float cheaper than an
entire sender.

Either way, you have to remove the old sender, so
start driving around until the tank is mostly empty...

Doug Braun
'72 Spit


--- Grant Buss <buss3 at rogers.com> wrote:

> Morning everyone
> I have a slight problem with my gas gauge. It reads
> a 1/4 tank off. When it
> shows 1/4 tank it is really 1/2 tank. My Temp gauge
> appears to be OK. I don't
> think there is anything wrong inside the tank. I
> think the voltage at the
> gauge should be 10 volts. How do you test it?
>             Thanks to everyone Grant
> _______________________________________________

From Shane.Bradley at infinity.co.nz  Sun Jul  1 14:47:34 2007
From: Shane.Bradley at infinity.co.nz (Shane Bradley)
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2007 08:47:34 +1200
Subject: [Spits] Rear suspension modification question (Joe Curry)
In-Reply-To: <mailman.17.1182794401.439.spitfires@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <AD37B9B1EC78574A94758CAD99776FA7065C92C6@wlgmail.solutions.infinity.co.nz>

Hi

I have been looking around for suspension bits for herald and came
across this a couple of days ago. Never used it, never seen them, but it
might be a start.

http://www.btinternet.com/~jon.wolfe/wolfitt_products_1.htm#Adjustable%2
0rear%20vertical%20link%20kit


Cheers
Shane
1968 13/60 herald

------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 08:57:19 -0700
From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Spits] Rear suspension modification question
To: "Chris Crisenbery" <ccrisenbery at fellerfinch.com>,
	<spitfires at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <004f01c7b741$831cabc0$2d02a8c0 at Belkin>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Chris,
I don't recall seeing anything like you describe in the books I have
from Kas.  But it all depends on which suspension you are working with.

On the standard early Spit swing axle, the two control arms in the rear
suspension are the spring (forming the upper element) and the axle
(forming the lower one).  Since the position of the suspension has a lot
to do with the camber that is achieved, lowering the car by reducing the
spring arch or by adding blocks between the spring and the diff are the
only two choices you have short of lengthening or shortening either the
axles or spring.

Kas recommends reducing the spring arch to 3.5" which does a good job of
increasing negative camber and lowering the car.

I have also seen some photos of people who have drilled the uprights to
place the spring eyelet lower on the upright and thus changing the
relativity between the upper and lower control elements.  I haven't seen
any data on what effect that would have and am not sure that I would
want to go that route.  It seems that might have some odd effects on how
the suspension works.

If you get any actual data on that or any other more radical
modifications, I'd love to hear about it.

Cheers,
Joe

----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Crisenbery" <ccrisenbery at fellerfinch.com>
To: <spitfires at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2007 7:47 AM
Subject: [Spits] Rear suspension modification question


> Dear Listers,
>
> I'm looking at making an adjustable rear shackle to be able to adjust
> the rear tires camber.  I believe Kas Kastners book has a picture of
an
> adjustable shackle.  I'm talking about the piece that attaches at the
> end of the spring and bolts to the rear axle trunnion and lower shock
> mount.
>
> Have any of you done this modification?  I believe the Kas detail
shows
> the 2 "eyes" being whacked off of the shackle and a rod end welded
onto
> each side to take it's place.  I believe when you screw the rod ends
up
> you will lengthen the overall length of the shackle and it should
raise
> the car by having less camber on the rear wheels.
>
> I would be interested in any pictures or experience in doing this mod.
>
> Thanks
>
>
> ___________________________
>
> Christopher E. Crisenbery, P.E.
> Feller, Finch & Associates, Inc.
> 2797 Spring Arbor Rd., Suite B
> Jackson, MI 49203
> p/n (517) 783-0710
> fax (517) 783-0711
> _______________________________________________
> Spitfires mailing list
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

The information contained in this email is privileged and confidential and
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From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sun Jul  1 15:28:53 2007
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 01 Jul 2007 17:28:53 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Gas guage
In-Reply-To: <245975.55878.qm@web610.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <002c01c7bbea$70869cc0$6500a8c0@FUNPLACE>
Message-ID: <4687E455.19864.E58C7@localhost>

Grant Buss wrote:
> I have a slight problem with my gas gauge. It reads a 1/4 tank off.

Doug Braun replied:

> Either way, you have to remove the old sender, so
> start driving around until the tank is mostly empty...

Doug, I don't quite follow this logic.  Unless a tank is completely 
void of all gas *and all gas fumes* an empty tank is as dangerous as 
one with fuel in it.  The sender goes into the top so it can be 
removed without draining the tank regardless of how much gas the tank 
contains.

Grant, I would suggest that before you pull the sender you should 
clean all the pertinent electrical connections, especially the one 
that goes to the sender.  If it still reads the same way then maybe 
it's the float on the sender.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+



-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.9.14/882 - Release Date: 6/30/2007 3:10 PM

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Jul  1 15:32:33 2007
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2007 14:32:33 -0700
Subject: [Spits] Gas gauge
In-Reply-To: <4687E455.19864.E58C7@localhost>
References: <002c01c7bbea$70869cc0$6500a8c0@FUNPLACE>
	<4687E455.19864.E58C7@localhost>
Message-ID: <000501c7bc27$560b3530$2202a8c0@newcomputer>

Jim,
The sender foes into the tank a little below the centerline of the tank, not
the top.  So the tank needs to be brought well below the half full mark
before removing the sender unit.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller
Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2007 2:29 PM
To: spitfires at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] Gas guage

Grant Buss wrote:
> I have a slight problem with my gas gauge. It reads a 1/4 tank off.

Doug Braun replied:

> Either way, you have to remove the old sender, so
> start driving around until the tank is mostly empty...

Doug, I don't quite follow this logic.  Unless a tank is completely 
void of all gas *and all gas fumes* an empty tank is as dangerous as 
one with fuel in it.  The sender goes into the top so it can be 
removed without draining the tank regardless of how much gas the tank 
contains.

Grant, I would suggest that before you pull the sender you should 
clean all the pertinent electrical connections, especially the one 
that goes to the sender.  If it still reads the same way then maybe 
it's the float on the sender.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+



-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.9.14/882 - Release Date: 6/30/2007
3:10 PM
_______________________________________________
Spitfires mailing list
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

From doug at dougbraun.com  Sun Jul  1 17:04:52 2007
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2007 16:04:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] Gas guage
In-Reply-To: <4687E455.19864.E58C7@localhost>
Message-ID: <841785.27501.qm@web602.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I'm assuming he has a Spitfire, where the sender is in
the side of the tank. If the tank is too full, several
gallons of gasoline would go gushing into your trunk
if you removed it.

Doug

--- Jim Muller <jimmuller at rcn.com> wrote:

> Grant Buss wrote:
> > I have a slight problem with my gas gauge. It
> reads a 1/4 tank off.
> 
> Doug Braun replied:
> 
> > Either way, you have to remove the old sender, so
> > start driving around until the tank is mostly
> empty...
> 
> Doug, I don't quite follow this logic.  Unless a
> tank is completely 
> void of all gas *and all gas fumes* an empty tank is
> as dangerous as 
> one with fuel in it.  The sender goes into the top
> so it can be 
> removed without draining the tank regardless of how
> much gas the tank 
> contains.

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Sun Jul  1 21:19:02 2007
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (David Woerpel)
Date: Sun, 01 Jul 2007 22:19:02 -0500
Subject: [Spits] 79 Spitfire with SU's
Message-ID: <46886EA6.60306@wi.net>

Thanks for all the help Jeff, Neil, Paul, Doug, Roger, Michael, Jim, et 
al.  I'm gone for a bit but have given my friend, Jeff, all your very 
helpful info as well as instructions on how to subscribe so you may be 
hearing from him soon.  Have a great Independence Day and Happy Dominion 
Day to our friends from the North!
Regards,
Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500
05 MCS
Working on 79 Spitfire 1500 with a brace of Skinners Union products

From doug at dougbraun.com  Mon Jul  2 05:28:35 2007
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2007 04:28:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] 79 Spitfire with SU carbs
In-Reply-To: <4686A5B3.4040104@wi.net>
Message-ID: <104213.20159.qm@web610.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

The moment it starts stumbling, pull out the choke
partway and see if it gets better.  If so, it suggests
that it is leaning out at high RPMs.

Also, does it stumble instantly at high RPMs, or is it
only after several seconds of full-throttle running,
like when merging onto a freeway?  That is the classic
symptom of a clogged fuel filter , lines, etc.

Doug Braun
'72 Spit


--- David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net> wrote:
 So we rotated the
> distributor a bit and I got it 
> up to 5200 before it stumbled.  But once it started
> to stumble the 
> 'stumble limit' (not a character from Harry Potter)
> became lower until 
> we were around 4000 again.  The pinch bolt is tight
> so that didn't slip 
> and we drew an index line so we could check for
> that. 

From alan.mceachran at anixter.com  Mon Jul  2 12:24:33 2007
From: alan.mceachran at anixter.com (alan.mceachran at anixter.com)
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2007 14:24:33 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Alan Mceachran is out of the office.
Message-ID: <OF32A3BB97.B75C3BC1-ON8525730C.00652005-8525730C.00652005@anixter.com>

I will be out of the office starting  07/02/2007 and will not return until
07/09/2007.

From bill at gingerich.us  Tue Jul  3 15:46:58 2007
From: bill at gingerich.us (bill at gingerich.us)
Date: Tue, 03 Jul 2007 14:46:58 -0700
Subject: [Spits] OD shift lever for a 3 rail box
Message-ID: <20070703144658.4412066ecf79773770454ed1d3ca4b3c.6e7c76d317.wbe@email.secureserver.net>

   Greetings, All!

   I  have  assembled  all  of the parts to convert the gearbox in my '74
   Spit  to  OD  - except the shift lever.  I know these are kind of like
   hens  teeth,  but figured I'd ask.  Does anyone have one they would be
   willing  to  part  with?   If  not,  does anyone have one that I could
   borrow so I can try to make something similar?  Failing both of those,
   would  someone be willing to measure the areas that are different from
   the standard lever, and send me the dimensions?

   TIA, etc.

   Bill G

   OKC, OK

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Jul  3 16:13:29 2007
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Tue,  3 Jul 2007 18:13:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Spits] OD shift lever for a 3 rail box
Message-ID: <20070703181329.BOP43945@ms09.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

Bill G wrote:
> I  have  assembled  all  of the parts to convert the
> gearbox in my '74 Spit  to  OD  - except the shift lever.

You have the rear engine mounting bits, i.e. the plate that sits across the frame sections and the vertical H-bracket that holds up the back of the OD unit?

The shift lever itself probably isn't much different except that it has a hole through it for the wires to run up to the knob which contains the switch, and maybe the ball joint pivot at the bottom is different.  The biggest thing different is the extension bracket that holds the bottom of the lever and the back end of the shift linkage.

Sorry, I dont have any of these pieces.  I just find it interesting that you'd have all these but need the shift lever itself.

Jim Muller

From nmoseley at dccnet.com  Wed Jul  4 18:09:15 2007
From: nmoseley at dccnet.com (Nick Moseley)
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2007 17:09:15 -0700
Subject: [Spits] Engine rebuild: What to ask and say to the machine shop?
 -and Happy 4th!
Message-ID: <1183594158_39510@mx.dccnet.com>

Happy 4th to all my neighbors to the South!

Sorry for the cross-posts!

 

I have a project engine for a home rebuild, partly to save $s, and partly
for the challenge. 

Here is what I gather so far:

It is a late 1493cc engine reputedly had about 75,000 miles on it (FM132xxx
I think). The oil filter had mileage at the last oil change written on the
end, which along with other signs, would indicate the former owner took care
of it. Engine was removed from an accident damaged car. Yet, the oil in it
was black as coal. Whereas when the other pistons were removed the rings
sprang out and expanded, on #4 cyl the rings stayed contracted into their
slots, seemingly stuck together with a paste of oil and carbon. (Which
explains the black oil). The crank journal under #2 cyl has visible but not
feel-able (with fingertip) grooves, the others have wear but less.

There is a feel-able (finger-tip again) wear ridge at the top of the
cylinders.

I've tried measuring, and get results varying from 2.90 at the very top,
down to 2.893 at the bottom of a cylinder.  There are variations, probably
due to my lack of skill, I've never used the digital caliper and other
thingy with axles on springs, before. 

On the head, intake and exhaust valves on #2 cyl. were removed. There was
visible wear on the intake valve stem and some lateral movement, but neither
on the exhaust valve. 

So questions:

-do machine shops expect the crank removed, or would they prefer it in?

-what about the camshaft, in or out?

-do they expect to be told what to grind it to, or will they measure and
decide?

-should I be giving them the head as well to install new valve guides and
skim?

The machine shop I've chosen comes recommended, has worked on Spits and LBCs
in general, and is located next door to a mechanic that works on LBCs and
others. I've never used that mechanic, but they also come recommended.

Should I be taking my own measurements and telling them what to grind it to,
or letting them know the over-bore sizes available and let them get to it!?

As you can tell by now I'm sure, the big question is: what do I ask and say
to the machine shop, and what should I do to prepare before-hand?

For those curious, I hope to use a rebuild kit available here:
http://www.sportscarsupplies.com/catalogue.asp?model=Spitfire%20/%20GT6

The $3,500. odd that a lister on another list paid for a rebuild is beyond
me.

Many thanks for all suggestions,

 

Nick Moseley, NASS #278

76-81 Spits , Near Vancouver B.C.

From bdischer at blakedischer.com  Thu Jul  5 14:44:56 2007
From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007 16:44:56 -0400
Subject: [Spits] VTR Convention Blog
Message-ID: <002c01c7bf45$5a63ff60$0201a8c0@bjdtr3a>

VTR is setting up a blog for the convention in Valley Forge.  Automotive
writer Richard Truett will be the lead author along with several other
volunteers.  I'd like to populate the "Blogroll" with links to other
Triumph-type blogs out there.  If anyone know of any, please forward me
their URL's.  

I'll put a link to the blog on the VTR web site on Saturday if not sooner.

Thanks!
 
Cheers,
Blake Discher
VINTAGE TRIUMPH REGISTER

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Thu Jul  5 20:19:59 2007
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2007 21:19:59 -0500
Subject: [Spits] [TR] Weber tuning/jetting needed at VTR
Message-ID: <468DA6CF.9000708@141.com>

Anyone know if any of the vendors or anyone else will be bringing a 
Weber jet kit to VTR?  We are having trouble with the Weber in Susan's 
Spitfire (DGV 32/36) and think it's probably time for some new jets.  
(We're not looking for a freebie, just to see if someone will be there 
with the knowledge and the equipment.)  Neither one of us is very 
familiar with the Weber, so on-site help would be great!

Thanks,
Brad

From jholmgren at advertising.com  Thu Jul  5 20:32:23 2007
From: jholmgren at advertising.com (Jim Holmgren)
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007 22:32:23 -0400
Subject: [Spits] [TR] Weber tuning/jetting needed at VTR
In-Reply-To: <468DA6CF.9000708@141.com>
References: <468DA6CF.9000708@141.com>
Message-ID: <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A610232691D35@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com>

Hi Brad,
Ted Schumacher from TSI will be there doing some tech sessions, I would
suggest giving him a call. I know he's got everything you'd need for the SU
carbs, not sure about Webers.

http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/

NFI!

Jim


Jim
'75 Spitfire 1500
'68 Spitfire Mk3
NASS #302
York, PA
www.littlebluespitfire.com



-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brad Kahler
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2007 10:20 PM
To: spitfires at autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] [TR] Weber tuning/jetting needed at VTR

Anyone know if any of the vendors or anyone else will be bringing a
Weber jet kit to VTR?  We are having trouble with the Weber in Susan's
Spitfire (DGV 32/36) and think it's probably time for some new jets.
(We're not looking for a freebie, just to see if someone will be there
with the knowledge and the equipment.)  Neither one of us is very
familiar with the Weber, so on-site help would be great!

Thanks,
Brad
_______________________________________________
Spitfires mailing list
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

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from any computer.

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Fri Jul  6 05:28:53 2007
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Fri, 06 Jul 2007 07:28:53 -0400
Subject: [Spits] [TR] Weber tuning/jetting needed at VTR
References: <468DA6CF.9000708@141.com>
Message-ID: <003e01c7bfc0$d5b0fa80$13087247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Brad Kahler" <brad.kahler at 141.com>
To: <spitfires at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2007 10:19 PM
Subject: [Spits] [TR] Weber tuning/jetting needed at VTR


> Anyone know if any of the vendors or anyone else will be bringing a 
> Weber jet kit to VTR?  We are having trouble with the Weber in Susan's 
> Spitfire (DGV 32/36) and think it's probably time for some new jets.  
> (We're not looking for a freebie, just to see if someone will be there 
> with the knowledge and the equipment.)  Neither one of us is very 
> familiar with the Weber, so on-site help would be great!
> 
> Thanks,
> Brad
> _______________________________________________
> Spitfires mailing list
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Fri Jul  6 09:56:45 2007
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Fri, 06 Jul 2007 11:56:45 -0400
Subject: [Spits] J.C.Whitney
Message-ID: <004801c7bfe6$40f30480$13087247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

Just received a e-mail special 20% discount flyer from J.C.W. and on the front
top of the flyer is a picture of a 1500, nice to see somebody displaying our
cars.  "FT"

From parrotthead01 at comcast.net  Fri Jul  6 20:48:43 2007
From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net (Daniel Parrott)
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2007 22:48:43 -0400
Subject: [Spits] J.C.Whitney
In-Reply-To: <004801c7bfe6$40f30480$13087247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
References: <004801c7bfe6$40f30480$13087247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAupxxX6qglHnpTSjxXkhknCgAAAEAAAAFXRlEYqEHtJkd1gzpdjAPYBAAAAAA==@comcast.net>

Ah, but how many parts for said 1500 were in the catalog?

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of FRED E THOMAS
Sent: Friday, July 06, 2007 11:57 AM
To: spitfires
Subject: [Spits] J.C.Whitney

Just received a e-mail special 20% discount flyer from J.C.W. and on the
front
top of the flyer is a picture of a 1500, nice to see somebody displaying our
cars.  "FT"
_______________________________________________
Spitfires mailing list
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

From kirkbcrawford at kirkanddonna.com  Mon Jul  9 09:52:59 2007
From: kirkbcrawford at kirkanddonna.com (Kirk Crawford)
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2007 08:52:59 -0700
Subject: [Spits] Spitfire Mk III Front Ride Height
Message-ID: <671315680707090852y3ff27fbt4c635f0f8ed180d1@mail.gmail.com>

I recently overhauled the suspension on my Spit Mk III.  Including new
shocks front and rear.  The new front shocks have adjustable spring seats,
thus the front ride height is adjustable.  The car has 155/80R13 tires on
it.  What is the normal ride height for this setup?  I need a measurement
from I guess the ground to the underside of the outside lip of the front
fender, or maybe the ground to the bottom of the front frame rails.  Right
now, it is too low I think, the tires rub on bumps or hard cornering.

Best Regards,

-- 
Kirk Crawford
kirk at kirkanddonna.com

From paulfmeyer at msn.com  Mon Jul  9 12:08:08 2007
From: paulfmeyer at msn.com (Paul Meyer)
Date: Mon, 09 Jul 2007 14:08:08 -0400
Subject: [Spits] 79 Spitfire with SU carbs
In-Reply-To: <468594EE.8050600@rmi.net>
Message-ID: <BAY110-F2659A86BAC10D3C3B1D96FCD060@phx.gbl>

Hi Roger, I installed a Weber DGV, and the fuel pressure is a little over 
2.5 lbs.

I ordered the weber after the CD150 went nuts after a rebuild.  In 
retrospect, the rebuild was fine, it was the new fuel pump I installed 
shoving 5+ psi down it's throat that caused the problems.


----Original Message Follows----
From: Roger Elliott <elliottr at rmi.net>
To: Paul Meyer <paulfmeyer at msn.com>,  spitfires at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] 79 Spitfire with SU carbs
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2007 18:25:34 -0500

I have been chasing similar problems for quite a while.  It never occurred 
to me that the problem could be too high of fuel pressure.

What did you need to set the pressure at to make the car run correctly?  I 
stopped at Napa, they had one that could be adjusted 2 - 4 pounds and one 
that could be adjusted 4-9 pounds.

Thanks,

Roger Elliott

Paul Meyer wrote:
>Several years ago I swapped carbs on my '78.
>Similar fuel problems resulted, which were eventually identified as being 
>caused by the new carb requiring less fuel pressure.  Idle was ok, but as 
>soon as I increased rpm or fiddled with the choke, it would roughen or 
>stall.  I too replaced the fuel pump, but that only made things worse.
>
>
>I put in a cheap, in-line fuel pressure regulator, and got some 
>improvement, but the cheap regulator caused flow problems in high rev 
>conditions.
>
>Ultimately, I put in a higher quality fuel pressure regulator, and that 
>solved it.
>
>
>
>Paul F. Meyer
>
>Home Phone:    781-551-8574
>Cell Phone:       781-801-3170
>e-mail:               paulfmeyer at msn.com
>
>
>
>
>----Original Message Follows----
>From: David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
>To: spitfires at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Spits] 79 Spitfire with SU carbs
>Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2007 17:43:27 -0500
>
>Hello,
>
>I am helping a friend with a 1979 Spitfire 1500.  He's removed the
>Zenith and installed 2 S.U. HS4's.  I'm one of the masochistic types
>that likes working on SU's and have no problem with the H4's on my MGA
>or H1's on the Bugeye Sprite but this problem has us stumped.
>
>The car has been desmogged, the head lightly shaved (I don't know how
>much) and the rest is stock as far as we know.  It was running happily
>and he decided that he wanted SU's.  The carbs are set correctly. We
>started with the jet adjusting nut at 12 flats down (yes, they are
>centered).  The float levels are at 3/16", oil in the dashpot (1/2"
>above tube).  The car starts and runs on choke and the pistons rise
>equally but when the choke is gradually reduced after, 3-5 min., it
>starts to stall.  Add choke; it runs.  Push off the choke and it wants
>to die.  When we tried hand manipulating the throttle it occasionally
>coughs back through the carbs and dies.
>
>The owner had ordered a new mechanical fuel pump which we installed.  It
>ran better off choke momentarily but then fuel poured out both float
>bowl overflows.  I know the mechanical pump isn't putting out too much
>pressure so I'm suspecting the float needle and seat.  New rubber tipped
>ones are on order.  The coughing back through the carbs makes me suspect
>timing but when it runs it's pretty smooth.  Just for kicks, what are
>the timing specs for a 79 1500?  He has no manual and mine are for my
>above cars.
>
>Any suggestions would be very helpful.  Thanks in advance.
>
>Dave
>59 :{)
>59 MGA 1500
>05 MCS
>Burlington WI
>_______________________________________________
>Spitfires mailing list
>Spitfires at autox.team.net
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>
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>
>

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From w4eae at netzero.net  Mon Jul  9 13:46:17 2007
From: w4eae at netzero.net (Gene Eighmy)
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2007 14:46:17 -0500
Subject: [Spits] Engine rebuild: What to ask and say to the machine
 shop? -and Happy 4th!
In-Reply-To: <1183594158_39510@mx.dccnet.com>
Message-ID: <00c301c7c261$d2471ac0$68fca8c0@GEIGHMY>

Nick,


> -do machine shops expect the crank removed, or would they prefer it in?
>

Leave the crank in.  It must be reassembled in the exact same order and
orientation.  If I were you, I would mark each bearing clamp with a metal
punch.  Punch the front with one mark, the middle with two and the rear with
three, etc.  Then take a detailed picture so you can verify that they put it
back together properly.


> -what about the camshaft, in or out?
>
I upgraded to a better camshaft and included it so they could check the
float.  I don't remember if they had to do anything but I included it just
in case.


> -do they expect to be told what to grind it to, or will they measure and
> decide?
>

My machinists said they could skim the head for 9.5:1 (premium gas).
Fortunately, I measured everything possible before taking it to the machine
shop.  When I got it back, I measured and verified everything and noticed
that they only took 0.010" off the deck and 0.010" off the head.  When I
called them on it, they said they didn't know how to cc a head and asked how
much I wanted off... I think they know how to do it but it is more of a
liability issue.

For more info check out my woes:

http://webpages.charter.net/eighmy/spitfire/


> -should I be giving them the head as well to install new valve guides and
> skim?
>

Yes.  While you have it apart, you will want to reseat your valves which
will improve your performance.  They will need all of it.


> The machine shop I've chosen comes recommended, has worked on Spits and
> LBCs
> in general, and is located next door to a mechanic that works on LBCs and
> others. I've never used that mechanic, but they also come recommended.
>
> Should I be taking my own measurements and telling them what to grind it
> to,
> or letting them know the over-bore sizes available and let them get to
> it!?
>

Will they supply the pistons and rings?  When I rebuilt mine, I ordered
flat-top pistons to bring it up to UK specs.  At the time, 0.020" and
0.050/60" were still available.

> As you can tell by now I'm sure, the big question is: what do I ask and
> say
> to the machine shop, and what should I do to prepare before-hand?
>

Figure out what you want to accomplish first.  Do you want stock US/Canada
performance?  Or do you want UK performance?  Or a race fuel powered rocket?


It is VERY IMPORTANT that it all goes back together in the same order.  Do
not take a box of parts to the machinist without knowing how it all goes
back together.  Mark parts and take pictures to document.  Trust but verify
your machinist.

Measure twice... you can only cut once...


Gene Eighmy
Birmingham, AL

From bdischer at blakedischer.com  Mon Jul  9 22:00:45 2007
From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2007 00:00:45 -0400
Subject: [Spits] VTR Convention Blog Established, First Post Online
Message-ID: <00eb01c7c2a6$e999a9f0$02fea8c0@bjdtr3a>

VTR has established a blog for the upcoming convention in Valley Forge.
Automotive writer Richard Truett (he's the engineering writer for Automotive
News) is the lead author and if anyone going to the convention wants to
contribute as an author or photographer, please let me know by sending an
email to bdischer at vtr.org. Anyone can comment on posts, no registration is
required.

Richard has posted his first entry today - "Which Car for My First VTR?" -
in which he talks about his indecision about whether to take his Dolomite
Sprint or his TR7 Sprint convertible. Check it out at
http://www.vtr.org/NATCblog/. Members and non-members alike are invited to
share their comments on posts, no registration is necessary for commenting. 

Thank you,
Blake Discher
VINTAGE TRIUMPH REGISTER

From nmoseley at dccnet.com  Mon Jul  9 23:20:18 2007
From: nmoseley at dccnet.com (Nick Moseley)
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2007 22:20:18 -0700
Subject: [Spits] Engine rebuild: What to ask and say to the machine
 shop? -and Happy 4th!
In-Reply-To: <00c301c7c261$d2471ac0$68fca8c0@GEIGHMY>
Message-ID: <1184044825_51035@mx.dccnet.com>

Thanks Gene. Great advice.
I enjoyed your web page, and well remember the novel solution of using piano
wire to form a spring for the master cylinder, and the other challenges you
overcame.

I'm hoping to phone two machine shops tomorrow, to find out if any will work
with me.
I also spoke to Ted S on Saturday morning. His offer of doing the work
including assembly is extremely tempting, and would certainly guarantee
success. I'm still hung up on doing some of the work myself though. 

Just out of curiosity, which cam did you go with, and are you happy with it?

Many thanks

Nick Moseley (NASS 278)
76-81 Spits, near Vancouver B.C.

From w4eae at netzero.net  Tue Jul 10 09:16:17 2007
From: w4eae at netzero.net (Gene Eighmy)
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2007 10:16:17 -0500
Subject: [Spits] Engine rebuild: What to ask and say to the machine
 shop? -and Happy 4th!
In-Reply-To: <1184044825_51035@mx.dccnet.com>
Message-ID: <000f01c7c305$44c2d320$68fca8c0@GEIGHMY>

Nick,

I went with the Fast Road Profile Cam from Nigel at SpitBits.  It is pretty
close to the one recommended in John Davies' article called "Skimming Your
Head for a Higher Compression Ratio".  That makes a huge difference and puts
all that extra compression to work.  With the old cam, I could barely make
it to redline.  With the Fast road cam it pulls all the way past redline and
then some...

I also added the oil cooler from Spitbits.  If you're going to add it, skip
the rubber hoses and go with the Stainless hoses.  The rubber ones lasted
less than 500 miles before coming apart.

Looking back, I wish I would have replaced the valves with the Large Intake
Valve 1.44" and Large Exhaust Valve 1.23".  RazorBob suggested that I do
that and I think he was right.

Gene Eighmy

NASS #275
'79 Spitfire 1500
Birmingham, AL

From joe at ammond.org  Mon Jul 16 08:47:35 2007
From: joe at ammond.org (Joe Ammond)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 10:47:35 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Starter and oil sensor removal on a '74 1500
Message-ID: <20070716144735.GA6060@ammond.org>

Does anyone have any tips on removing the starter from a '74 1500?

I've removed the two bolts that attach it to the bellhousing,
but there isn't enough clearance to slide it back far enough
to remove it entirely. It looks like if I remove the oil pressure
sender then I can work it up that way, hence the next question:
any tips on removing the oil sender?


Thanks,



ja.
-- 
Joe Ammond                                                  joe at ammond.org

From jholmgren at advertising.com  Mon Jul 16 09:04:51 2007
From: jholmgren at advertising.com (Jim Holmgren)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 11:04:51 -0400
Subject: [Spits] [BULK?] Starter and oil sensor removal on a '74 1500
In-Reply-To: <20070716144735.GA6060@ammond.org>
References: <20070716144735.GA6060@ammond.org>
Message-ID: <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A610267AE75EC@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com>

It will come out without removing the pressure sender - it just takes some
work.  I replaced mine about a month ago, took about 10-15 minutes of
twisting, turning, cursing and trying different angles before it came out.  I
can't remember exactly, but I think the back end of the starter needs to come
up and toward you.


Jim
'75 Spitfire 1500
'68 Spitfire Mk3
NASS #302
York, PA
www.littlebluespitfire.com


-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Ammond
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 10:48 AM
To: spitfires at autox.team.net
Subject: [BULK?] [Spits] Starter and oil sensor removal on a '74 1500
Importance: Low

Does anyone have any tips on removing the starter from a '74 1500?

I've removed the two bolts that attach it to the bellhousing,
but there isn't enough clearance to slide it back far enough
to remove it entirely. It looks like if I remove the oil pressure
sender then I can work it up that way, hence the next question:
any tips on removing the oil sender?


Thanks,



ja.
--
Joe Ammond                                                  joe at ammond.org
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From jdinnis at gmail.com  Mon Jul 16 13:11:14 2007
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 14:11:14 -0500
Subject: [Spits] Spitfire for sale, Cedar Rapids IA
Message-ID: <abb8688a0707161211k4aad20cch42079b0de813c1a4@mail.gmail.com>

This just appeared in the local buy-sell-trade paper today.  Not other
info, but would be willing to go look at the car if anyone is
interested. NFI.

'74 triumph spitfire sportscar. 319-270-
3509

John Innis
Cedar Rapids, IA
Murphy, '76 Spit 1500
NASS#268
-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================

From pasek001 at umn.edu  Mon Jul 16 16:47:38 2007
From: pasek001 at umn.edu (George Pasek)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 16:47:38 -0600
Subject: [Spits] Disk Rotor removal.. Plan-D
Message-ID: <001701c7c7fb$4fc2be70$872e5486@SONY>

Hello...

Yesterday I decided to remove the disk brakes on my '78 Spit to rebuild the
calipers and replace rotors and wheel bearings.  When I got down to removing
the rotor from the hub I did as the book said.

Remove the 4 bolts holding the rotor to the hub and remove rotor.... Nope...
Rotor won't come Off.

PLAN-B:  Applied a spray of Rust Buster to mating surface between rotor and
hub, smack smartly with mallet... Nope... Rotor won't come Off.

PLAN-C:  Fired up the propain tourch and heat rotor, smack smartly with mallet
.... Nope... Rotor won't come Off.

PLAN-D:  Slip rotor/hub into freezer (when wife wasn't looking) and wait half
hour, Swap out Propane with MappGas, Heat rotor, Smack smartly with
mallet..... POP, Off comes Rotor :-)  Yea !!!....   Miller Time !!

What was Plan-E you ask, a 10 ton bearing press.

Plan-F?  A new hub to replace the one destroyed when Plan-E Failed.

We're Havin Fun Now!

George
'78 "Spiffy"

From r.gosling at penspen.com  Tue Jul 17 01:48:12 2007
From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 08:48:12 +0100
Subject: [Spits] Disk Rotor removal.. Plan-D
Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF659@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>

Re-assemble with plenty of grease/copperslip so that it comes off more
easily next time!!!


Richard Gosling

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From racerbob70 at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 24 14:50:11 2007
From: racerbob70 at yahoo.com (Bob Van Kirk)
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 13:50:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] Fwd: [MGVR] Need a Display Car
Message-ID: <20070724205011.13596.qmail@web51603.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

  Can anyone help this lady out??


--- lou marchant <Lou.Marchant at sun.com> wrote:

> To: MGVR at yahoogroups.com
> CC: lou marchant <Lou.Marchant at Sun.COM>
> From: lou marchant <Lou.Marchant at sun.com>
> Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 13:42:55 -0500
> Subject: [MGVR] Need a Display Car
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> We are having a corporate meeting with a race theme
> next week in Las 
> Vegas at the Rio.  My company would like
> a race car in the corridor outside our meeting room.
> Does anyone know 
> someone in Vegas who would like to
> display their race car in the hotel? Of course I
> would like to see an 
> MG but we would consider any race car. They
> would have to bring it in  Monday night and could
> take it home Tuesday 
> evening.
> 
> Let me know.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Lou
> MGA #186
> 
> Lou Marchant
> Sun Microsystems
> US Systems Practice SPARC Product Boss
> Data Center Ambassador Board Chair
> 16000 N. Dallas Parkway
> Dallas, TX 75248
> 
> 972 386-1299 Office
> 817 929-5280 Cell
> +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> Save Earth, it's the only planet with chocolate.
>
http://www.sun.com/servers/coolthreads/overview/index.jsp
> +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> 



       
____________________________________________________________________________________
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From celiracer81 at hotmail.com  Wed Jul 25 11:15:44 2007
From: celiracer81 at hotmail.com (David Mayer)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 17:15:44 +0000
Subject: [Spits] Rattle-Can Primer?
Message-ID: <BAY107-F34C17BE9C7F38B07276268A2F10@phx.gbl>

What are everyone's thougths on rattle-can primer on bare metal of a Spit 
while it is waiting for body work and final painting?  I just keep getting 
rust spots on the bare metal that I have already blasted and sanded a couple 
of times.  The humidity is killing me here.

Any recommendations for something that will seal up the metal well and keep 
that from happening?

_________________________________________________________________
http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_mini_2G_0507

From spitlist at cox.net  Wed Jul 25 11:46:32 2007
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 10:46:32 -0700
Subject: [Spits] Rattle-Can Primer?
References: <BAY107-F34C17BE9C7F38B07276268A2F10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <008301c7cee3$bcf02020$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

I would test the primer with the paint you are going to use for the final
coat before using it.  Some of those primers react to the paint and cause
blistering.  You certainly won't want all your preparation work to be in
vain.

Joe
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Mayer" <celiracer81 at hotmail.com>
To: <spitfires at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 10:15 AM
Subject: [Spits] Rattle-Can Primer?


> What are everyone's thougths on rattle-can primer on bare metal of a Spit
> while it is waiting for body work and final painting?  I just keep getting
> rust spots on the bare metal that I have already blasted and sanded a
couple
> of times.  The humidity is killing me here.
>
> Any recommendations for something that will seal up the metal well and
keep
> that from happening?

From doug at dougbraun.com  Wed Jul 25 11:41:25 2007
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 10:41:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] Rattle-Can Primer?
In-Reply-To: <BAY107-F34C17BE9C7F38B07276268A2F10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <5826.61066.qm@web608.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Try Zero-Ruse Prep-Step
(http://www.zerorust.com/prepstep.html).  This is a
phosphate-based powder that you mix with water and
spray on bare steel.  It leaves a slightly dull gray
surface on the steel that will keep it from rusting
for s couple of weeks.  The nice thing is that it is
not acidic or nasty, and you don't have to rinse it
off.
I got it from a vendor at a swap meet, and it has
saved my a$$ on my '31 Ford project, when I
sandblasted the frame and floorpans over a period of
several weeks.

Someone once recommended Dupli-Color self-etching
primer in a spray can for the situation you described.
 I got some and used it on some chassis hardware, but
I found that the paint I put on afterwards tended to
chip off easily.  Most "primers" are lacquer-based and
have a lot of filler (talc), and are porous and not
very strong.  A bad choice for your chassis!

You might try Eastwood chassis black primer, which is
a 1-part epoxy-based primer.

I really recommend a 2-part epoxy primer like PPG
DPLF.  It dries very hard and strong and waterproof. 
But you have to mix it up and spray it with a gun, and
you need to put on the next coat within a few days
before it fully cures.  So it would not be very useful
in your situation.

Doug Braun
'72 Spit

--- David Mayer <celiracer81 at hotmail.com> wrote:

> What are everyone's thougths on rattle-can primer on
> bare metal of a Spit 
> while it is waiting for body work and final
> painting?  I just keep getting 
> rust spots on the bare metal that I have already
> blasted and sanded a couple 
> of times.  The humidity is killing me here.
> 
> Any recommendations for something that will seal up
> the metal well and keep 
> that from happening?

From RTGetzinger at scif.com  Wed Jul 25 11:46:43 2007
From: RTGetzinger at scif.com (Rob T. Getzinger)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 10:46:43 -0700
Subject: [Spits] Rattle-Can Primer?
In-Reply-To: <008301c7cee3$bcf02020$2d02a8c0@Belkin>
References: <BAY107-F34C17BE9C7F38B07276268A2F10@phx.gbl>
	<008301c7cee3$bcf02020$2d02a8c0@Belkin>
Message-ID: <0F918CBCB159734C8D6121793EDBF0D803DF0E70@njem01.scif.com>

Is the whole care bare metal? If yes, bang out any dents and then shoot
it with an epoxy primer or have someone do it for you. If it is just
bare spots and you are going to do more work anyway then spray on any
lacquer spray paint in a thin coat. You or the body shop will likely
sand it back down to apply bondo to bare metal later. It is always good
measure to spray a primer sealer coat just moments before the color
coats to seal everything below so it wont bleed through, including
rattle can primer.
Rob

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From jblair1948 at cox.net  Wed Jul 25 16:39:38 2007
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 18:39:38 -0400
Subject: [Spits] 77 Spitfire - in VA Beach
Message-ID: <3.0.5.32.20070725183938.00a96078@pop.east.cox.net>

I've got a '77 Spit 1500 /w OD. and parts from about 2 other 1500 Spits of 
that era (77-80).  The one runs, but has some rust on the rear quarters and 
the hood.  It has a fiberglass hardtop.  Some of the parts consist of, a 
spare hood, doors, trunk lid, Chassis (missing the front horns for the 
bumper), a spare 1500 engine that needs to be reworked, and an OD 
transmission.

I'd planned on restoring it as a father & son project.  But son is in the 
Army now.  So we won't be able to do it, and I currently have too many other 
projects.

It has to be out of here by Oct 1st or its going to the schreder.

So come and get it!  It's located in Virginia Beach, VA.  Contact me
via email or phone: (757) 495-8229.

John







John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va             
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

          48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
     75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                       65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

From tbenner222 at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jul 28 05:50:45 2007
From: tbenner222 at sbcglobal.net (Tim Benner)
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 07:50:45 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Brake fluid
Message-ID: <OJEHKNNBCGLJAOBNJMIAIEOECBAA.tbenner222@sbcglobal.net>

Fellow Spitfire enthusiasts,

Sadly I will soon be parting with my 65/67 Spitfire. (1965 on builder's
plate but 67 on title)  It is on Craig's list at
http://dayton.craigslist.org/car/375387590.html

Before it goes I would like to change the brake and clutch fluid one more
time.  I will get Castrol GT LMA if needed but I have some other fluid on
the shelf that might as well be used if it can.  Some time ago I got some
Lockheed Super 4 from one of the British car catalogues.  Can this be used?
I also have a few liters of ATE Super Blue.  I know this is good fluid but
wiould it be safe on the Spit brake parts?

Thanks as always,

Tim Benner

From elliottr at rmi.net  Sun Jul 29 18:22:16 2007
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 19:22:16 -0500
Subject: [Spits] Door handle gaskets
Message-ID: <46AD2F38.6040308@rmi.net>

Hi Everyone,

When I had the Spitfire repainted, I put new gaskets on.  Before I put 
them on I painted them to seal out the moisture.  I don't remember now 
if I used black paint or a rubberized coating.  They looked fine for a 
while but soon started looking horrible, I assume from absorbing 
moisture.  It seems like I remember a comment on this list a few years 
ago about someone supplying rubber door gaskets. 

Does anyone remember who that was?  If I can't find them I may by a 
normal set of gaskets and cut my own out of rubber.

Thanks,

Roger

From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com  Mon Jul 30 05:55:14 2007
From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 07:55:14 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <mailman.17.1185645602.26827.spitfires@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF8CE361DB.DF89214B-ON85257328.0041234D-85257328.004179D2@exxonmobil.com>

Tim,

I have always used either Castrol GT LMA or Lockheed Super 4 in my British
cars.  I'm leery of using other fluids because they "may not" be compatible
with natural rubber gaskets and seals.

Mark
1980 Spitfire 1500
1973 MGBGT

From: "Tim Benner" <tbenner222 at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Spits] Brake fluid

Before it goes I would like to change the brake and clutch fluid one more
time.  I will get Castrol GT LMA if needed but I have some other fluid on
the shelf that might as well be used if it can.  Some time ago I got some
Lockheed Super 4 from one of the British car catalogues.  Can this be used?
I also have a few liters of ATE Super Blue.  I know this is good fluid but
wiould it be safe on the Spit brake parts?

Thanks as always,

Tim Benner

From jfreynolds_99 at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 30 12:45:42 2007
From: jfreynolds_99 at yahoo.com (John Reynolds)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 11:45:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] Door handle gaskets
In-Reply-To: <46AD2F38.6040308@rmi.net>
Message-ID: <288271.44259.qm@web30707.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Roger,
I just made some gaskets from sheet rubber for my
1979. I was a terrible job since the gaskets are razor
thin in several critical areas. I finally mounted a
roughed out gasket and handle to an old door and cut
the outside shape with an X-acto knife. Results were
just OK. The fiber based gaskets sold by the usual
suspects are horrible and deteriorate quickly. The bad
news is that I saw a 121 mile 80 Spitfire at the VTR
Nationals and it had the fiber gaskets and they were
deteriorated. If you find a good source for gaskets,
let me know.
Best Regards,
John Reynolds
--- Roger Elliott <elliottr at rmi.net> wrote:

> Hi Everyone,
> 
> When I had the Spitfire repainted, I put new gaskets
> on.  Before I put 
> them on I painted them to seal out the moisture.  I
> don't remember now 
> if I used black paint or a rubberized coating.  They
> looked fine for a 
> while but soon started looking horrible, I assume
> from absorbing 
> moisture.  It seems like I remember a comment on
> this list a few years 
> ago about someone supplying rubber door gaskets. 
> 
> Does anyone remember who that was?  If I can't find
> them I may by a 
> normal set of gaskets and cut my own out of rubber.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Roger
> _______________________________________________
> Spitfires mailing list
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
> 



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From clarkfot at cwnicholls.net  Mon Jul 30 16:46:39 2007
From: clarkfot at cwnicholls.net (Clark W. Nicholls)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 18:46:39 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Convertible top needed for 74 Spitfire
In-Reply-To: <288271.44259.qm@web30707.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <46AD2F38.6040308@rmi.net>
	<288271.44259.qm@web30707.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <00a801c7d2fb$7f89ccb0$1442a8c0@semperon3400>

Please reply to Walt!
walt at hot-tr6.com 

 My son, Drew, drives a 1974 Spitfire.
 
His car runs well but is in need of a new convertible top- black is
prefered.  
As a college student and a Triumph owner  he is short of bucks. 
If anyone has a used but still servicable vinyl top they are willing to sell
I would appreciate it. 
If not I'll help him bite the bullet and order a new one.
Thanks to all,
Walt Hollowell
walt at hot-tr6.com 
Abq., NM

From cat_tail at comcast.net  Mon Jul 30 20:47:13 2007
From: cat_tail at comcast.net (Rick deOlazarra)
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 02:47:13 +0000
Subject: [Spits] 74 1500 For Sale
Message-ID: <073120070247.25220.46AEA2B100082C1C00006284220588636004070E9BA19B0E0C@comcast.net>

For those in or around the San Francisco Bay Area; '74 Spitfire 1500, 2nd owner, bought it in '84 for $2,650, have over $17,000 invested. Last of the chrome bumpered Spitfires. If you like Spitfires, you'll do a lot of searching to find a better example.  A lot of blood, sweat, and tears went into this one; it's like an old friend and I'd like to sell it to someone who'll knows how to maintain, service, and take good care of it.  If your idea of maintenance is keeping gas in the tank and changing the oil once a year, please look elsewhere; I don't want to put it in the hands of someone who'll trash it.
I feel it's worth every penny of $8,000, but the market doesn't much favor that price for Spitfires these days, so I figure $6,000 is an equitable exchange. If you wind up offering less, I'll take your contact information and get back to you later if your offer turns out to be the best, but the first $6,000 will take it.  Includes 3 versions of shop/maintenance manuals, factory parts catalog, owner's manual, parts catalogs from Moss, Victoria British,  the Roadster Factory and a complete detailed record of maintenance and work I've done on it from day one. Located in Richmond, Calif.  

-Rick

From racerbob70 at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 31 10:07:17 2007
From: racerbob70 at yahoo.com (Bob Van Kirk)
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 09:07:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] Fwd: [MGVR] STOLEN MGA
Message-ID: <756646.55408.qm@web51611.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

  Perhaps you fellows on the west coast can keep an
eye out for this car...


--- Scott Brown <scott at scottbrowndesign.com> wrote:

> To: MGVR at yahoogroups.com
> From: "Scott Brown" <scott at scottbrowndesign.com>
> Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 15:51:00 -0000
> Subject: [MGVR] STOLEN MGA
> 
> Steve Meline, Huntington Beach CA
> Hi Guys. 
> The beige A with the smooth valance, head fairing
> and gold wheels featured in the "...GT-32" 
> and "... Smooth valance" thead is mine. I've always
> wanted to show it to you but could never 
> figure-out the technology. I really hope you like
> it. 
> Last night, after getting home from Whistler, it was
> stolen. I had an elctrical fire (just smoke) 
> on the way home with the pizza. Parked it, and
> retuned to find it gone. I had it for 27 years. 
> Get yours insured! 
> Please keep an eye-out for it or its components. It
> has a Ford 5-speed, very well developed 
> 18V engine, roller rockers, Maniflow intake and
> exhaust manifolds, MGA SUs.... 
> 
> Thank you.
> Steve
> 
> 



       
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