From jerry.stasyszen at sbcglobal.net Wed Aug 1 23:16:00 2007 From: jerry.stasyszen at sbcglobal.net (Jerry Stasyszen) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 23:16:00 -0600 Subject: [Spits] 74 1500 For Sale In-Reply-To: <073120070247.25220.46AEA2B100082C1C00006284220588636004070E9BA19B0E0C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000301c7d4c4$37deb810$6401a8c0@greeper> Go for the price! I believe it is rediculous to by parts and restore these fine little sports cars then sell then for pennies on the dollar. MOSS VB all the parts houses charge the same prices for Spit parts as the charge for TR parts or MG parts. Spits have a rich history, won a lot of SCCA championships, were designed by an Italian sports car designer so why shouldn't the car sell for what you have in it as well as the time spent restoring it. When I sell my Spit I won't budge on the price or I'll just keep it and pass it on to one of my children. JMHO Jerry Stasyszen OKCSpitfire at sbcglobal.net -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rick deOlazarra Sent: Monday, July 30, 2007 8:47 PM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] 74 1500 For Sale For those in or around the San Francisco Bay Area; '74 Spitfire 1500, 2nd owner, bought it in '84 for $2,650, have over $17,000 invested. Last of the chrome bumpered Spitfires. If you like Spitfires, you'll do a lot of searching to find a better example. A lot of blood, sweat, and tears went into this one; it's like an old friend and I'd like to sell it to someone who'll knows how to maintain, service, and take good care of it. If your idea of maintenance is keeping gas in the tank and changing the oil once a year, please look elsewhere; I don't want to put it in the hands of someone who'll trash it. I feel it's worth every penny of $8,000, but the market doesn't much favor that price for Spitfires these days, so I figure $6,000 is an equitable exchange. If you wind up offering less, I'll take your contact information and get back to you later if your offer turns out to be the best, but the first $6,000 will take it. Includes 3 versions of shop/maintenance manuals, factory parts catalog, owner's manual, parts catalogs from Moss, Victoria British, the Roadster Factory and a complete detailed record of maintenance and work I've done on it from day one. Located in Richmond, Calif. -Rick _______________________________________________ Spitfires mailing list Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.22/923 - Release Date: 7/27/2007 6:01 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.2/931 - Release Date: 8/1/2007 4:53 PM From pelevesque at globetrotter.net Sat Aug 4 05:46:19 2007 From: pelevesque at globetrotter.net (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Paul-Ernest_L=E9vesque?=) Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2007 07:46:19 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Control Box (Voltage Regulator) for Spitfire MK3 (1970) Message-ID: The contact point look pitted on my genuine Lucas Control Box so I order one at Spitbits and installed it, end result for short story, the cut-off relay did not operate properly and the generator was completely cook finish (burned) after the first ride. The paint above the generator inside the bonnet was burn by heat. I hear that Lucas do not make the original control box anymore, I bought a new generator and install it but how can I get a good working and quality control box. I am afraid to cook another generator again with a cheap control box. Anyone know were I could find a dependable control box. Thank you Paul-Ernest From elliottr at rmi.net Sat Aug 4 16:16:00 2007 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2007 17:16:00 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Tire Pressure Message-ID: <46B4FAA0.90508@rmi.net> Hi Everyone, I finally got new tires for the Spitfire - Sumitomo HTR 200. A couple of people recommend these tires to me. I am pretty impressed so far, though I haven't driven very far yet. I am curious as to what tire pressure I should use. I know the pressure for the original tires was 21 front/ 26 rear. The tire shop put 30 front/30 rear. I was thinking of trying 25 front/30 rear which would maintain the 5 pound difference between the front and rear. So out of curiosity what is everyone running in their tires? This is on a 1980 Spit 175/70 13 inch tires. Thanks, Roger 1980 Spitfire From growe58 at hotmail.com Sun Aug 5 20:49:37 2007 From: growe58 at hotmail.com (Greg Rowe) Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2007 22:49:37 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Tire Pressure In-Reply-To: <46B4FAA0.90508@rmi.net> Message-ID: I run 30 lbs all around with 175-70-13s. 25 frt/30 rear would be good if you want to maintain the original handling balance. Personally I feel that the factory got too conservative with understeer possibly due to bad press about the swing axle. I also feel that the steering also gets a tad heavy (and lifeless) with 175-70-13s at less than 30 lbs up front. Really the right answer is whatever gives you a comfortable handling balance between front and rear (within reasonable pressures). Best! Greg Rowe 79 Spitfire >From: Roger Elliott >To: Spitfires >Subject: [Spits] Tire Pressure >Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2007 17:16:00 -0500 > >Hi Everyone, > >I finally got new tires for the Spitfire - Sumitomo HTR 200. A couple >of people recommend these tires to me. > >I am pretty impressed so far, though I haven't driven very far yet. I am >curious as to what tire pressure I should use. I know the pressure for >the original tires was 21 front/ 26 rear. The tire shop put 30 >front/30 rear. I was thinking of trying 25 front/30 rear which would >maintain the 5 pound difference between the front and rear. > >So out of curiosity what is everyone running in their tires? > >This is on a 1980 Spit 175/70 13 inch tires. > >Thanks, >Roger >1980 Spitfire _________________________________________________________________ See what youre getting intobefore you go there http://newlivehotmail.com/?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_viral_preview_0507 From bill at gingerich.us Sun Aug 5 21:21:52 2007 From: bill at gingerich.us (Bill Gingerich) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 22:21:52 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Early Spitfire part needed. Message-ID: <005c01c7d7d8$efbb3640$057e1340@shack2> Greetings, all! Sorry to bomb the lists, but since I don't know who is where these days.. A friend in Minnesota is looking for a part for his '63 Spitfire. In his words, "I am in need of purchasing possibly two, but one for sure of the brackets that hold the radiator fill tank to the inlet manifold on an early Spit. Can you help me out?" If you have this bracket, or know of one, please contact Bill Nelson directly at billiz75 at hotmail.com. Thanks to all. Bill Gingerich '74 Spitfire Newalla, OK From dlachance at hemmings.com Mon Aug 6 08:30:42 2007 From: dlachance at hemmings.com (David LaChance) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 10:30:42 -0400 Subject: [Spits] what parts should I take? Message-ID: <03F9EBBBEEE1224F813E61CDA169C0360928FF@ENTXCHBE01A.amcity.com> Hi everyone, I've just bought a 1979 Spitfire that's too rusted to restore, but has an overdrive gearbox that I'd like to install in my 1978 Spit. Does anyone have a list of all the things I'll need to take off the old car to make the swap? Beyond that, are there any parts I should be sure to save? I've got my own long list, but I just want to make sure I don't miss anything. By the way, I'm offering the bumpers free to a good home (you pay shipping). They're oxidized, but they're in pretty good shape, otherwise. Thanks! Dave LaChance 1978 1500 1979 1500 (for the moment) From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Aug 6 09:31:27 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 11:31:27 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Spits] what parts should I take? Message-ID: <20070806113127.ACC12761@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> > I've just bought a 1979 Spitfire that's too rusted to > restore, but has an overdrive gearbox that I'd like to > install in my 1978 Spit. Does anyone have a list of all the > things I'll need to take off the old car to make the swap? >From memory, sort of. The gearbox itself, the driveshaft, the speedometer cable, the shift knob and the complete mounting stuff that extends backwards from the top of the box to hold the shifting mechanism, the vertical H-bracket that acts as the rear engine mount, and the horizontal plate that sits across the frame members at the back end of the tranny onto which sits the H-bracket. You'll need the wiring which feeds the solenoid and obviously the solenoid and lock-out switch, but those two items should be attached to the gearbox anyway. Of all these the horizontal frame plate that supports the rear engine mount is the one most likey to be ignored because one wouldn't guess that such a piece is different between OD and non-OD unless one has looked at it. -- Jim Muller, been there, done that From spitlist at cox.net Mon Aug 6 09:47:08 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 08:47:08 -0700 Subject: [Spits] what parts should I take? References: <03F9EBBBEEE1224F813E61CDA169C0360928FF@ENTXCHBE01A.amcity.com> Message-ID: <001801c7d841$0c71b1c0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Dave, You need to save: 1. The gearbox (obviously) with the shifter. 2. The plate that attaches the gearbox rear to the frame. 3. The Drive shaft 4. The wiring harness and relay (if so equipped, bit I don't think there was one on the 79 model) 5. Speedometer cable because it is probably longer than the one currently in your car. (Check to see if it spins freely) Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "David LaChance" To: Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 7:30 AM Subject: [Spits] what parts should I take? > Hi everyone, > > I've just bought a 1979 Spitfire that's too rusted to restore, but has > an overdrive gearbox that I'd like to install in my 1978 Spit. Does > anyone have a list of all the things I'll need to take off the old car > to make the swap? Beyond that, are there any parts I should be sure to > save? I've got my own long list, but I just want to make sure I don't > miss anything. From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Tue Aug 7 03:29:30 2007 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 05:29:30 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Tire Pressure References: <46B4FAA0.90508@rmi.net> Message-ID: <002e01c7d8d5$756893d0$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us> 26/22 Front/rear. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Roger Elliott" To: "Spitfires" Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2007 6:16 PM Subject: [Spits] Tire Pressure > Hi Everyone, > > I finally got new tires for the Spitfire - Sumitomo HTR 200. A couple > of people recommend these tires to me. > > I am pretty impressed so far, though I haven't driven very far yet. I am > curious as to what tire pressure I should use. I know the pressure for > the original tires was 21 front/ 26 rear. The tire shop put 30 > front/30 rear. I was thinking of trying 25 front/30 rear which would > maintain the 5 pound difference between the front and rear. > > So out of curiosity what is everyone running in their tires? > > This is on a 1980 Spit 175/70 13 inch tires. > > Thanks, > Roger > 1980 Spitfire > _______________________________________________ > Spitfires mailing list > Spitfires at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires From charliebrownphoto at comcast.net Tue Aug 7 15:40:19 2007 From: charliebrownphoto at comcast.net (Charlie Brown) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 17:40:19 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Camber Compensator for Herald? References: <46B4FAA0.90508@rmi.net> Message-ID: <000901c7d93b$8cf542d0$33306a4c@Home> Joe Curry, are you out there? We've got a guy in our club with a Herald and he's looking for a rear suspension upgrade. At one point, I believe, you were reproducing the camber compensators from the days of yore. Still have them? Do you know if they'll work for Heralds? Thanks, Charlie Brown From ZoboHerald at aol.com Tue Aug 7 18:21:22 2007 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 20:21:22 EDT Subject: [Spits] Camber Compensator for Herald? Message-ID: In a message dated 8/7/2007 5:40:40 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, charliebrownphoto at comcast.net writes: Joe Curry, are you out there? We've got a guy in our club with a Herald and he's looking for a rear suspension upgrade. At one point, I believe, you were reproducing the camber compensators from the days of yore. Still have them? Do you know if they'll work for Heralds? ==AM== Charlie, I don't know where Joe is at this moment, but I do know that a camber compensator will work just as well on a Herald as it does on a Spitfire! Allow me a fond memory here.... Back around 1972, a friend and I drove to NYC in my Mk3 Spitfire for the New York Auto Show. Considering where we were in Manhattan (show was at the Coliseum then), we decided to make the "pilgrimage" to Triumph's showroom @ 1745 Broadway. Despite the fact that we both were long-haired hippies at the time, we had a very nice chat with legendary salesman Tim Craxton. The conversation drifted around to Heralds, and he let on that he had one. He told me that he'd put a camber compensator and Koni shocks on the car, and it was the best thing he'd ever done! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From charliebrownphoto at comcast.net Tue Aug 7 18:58:46 2007 From: charliebrownphoto at comcast.net (Charlie Brown) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 20:58:46 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Camber Compensator for Herald? References: Message-ID: <000b01c7d957$46addcd0$33306a4c@Home> I knew I could count on you guys for the full scoop. Thanks Andy, thanks Joe. I'll pass this along to my Herald friend. Charlie Yep still have them. I can ship within 3 days after receiving an order. http://members.cox.net/spitlist/CamberCompensator.html Orders are to be sent to me prepaid by check or money order to the address below. I need the year and model of car, modifications that have been made to the rear suspension and the ship to address (no P.O. Box please). Regards, Joe Curry 1707 W. Placita Del Zocalo Sahuarita, AZ 85629 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------- In a message dated 8/7/2007 5:40:40 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, charliebrownphoto at comcast.net writes: Joe Curry, are you out there? We've got a guy in our club with a Herald and he's looking for a rear suspension upgrade. At one point, I believe, you were reproducing the camber compensators from the days of yore. Still have them? Do you know if they'll work for Heralds? ==AM== Charlie, I don't know where Joe is at this moment, but I do know that a camber compensator will work just as well on a Herald as it does on a Spitfire! Allow me a fond memory here.... Back around 1972, a friend and I drove to NYC in my Mk3 Spitfire for the New York Auto Show. Considering where we were in Manhattan (show was at the Coliseum then), we decided to make the "pilgrimage" to Triumph's showroom @ 1745 Broadway. Despite the fact that we both were long-haired hippies at the time, we had a very nice chat with legendary salesman Tim Craxton. The conversation drifted around to Heralds, and he let on that he had one. He told me that he'd put a camber compensator and Koni shocks on the car, and it was the best thing he'd ever done! --Andy Mace From agostinihp at earthlink.net Wed Aug 8 05:16:42 2007 From: agostinihp at earthlink.net (agostinihp at earthlink.net) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 07:16:42 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [Spits] Montreal Transportation information Message-ID: <18707751.1186571802891.JavaMail.root@elwamui-ovcar.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Hi folks in the Montreal, QC area, I hate to bomb the list with this question but I am in a spot of bother to say the least. Is there any bus service that anyone knows of from Cowanville, QC, or that area, to Montreal? Once in Montreal I am fine. If you can tell me the name of the busline(s) it would be greatly appreciated. I have tried Google but that is a bit limited with such a specific question. The reason for the this info request is the following. This past Saturday I was rear ended just short of the Canada-US border. I slowed down for the 50 KMH zone just before the border. The other driver hit me dead center in the rear. It appears the other driver fell asleep or had road fatigue and did not see me. There are two lanes there and there were no other cars on the road there at that time, with clear weather at about 5PM. Go figure!!!! My car was totaled (an Acura) and I had to rent a car to get back (I won't get into all the details of the balance of the horror show). By the way, I was treated with a great deal of courtesy and help by the QCers I encountered, including a Canadian Border officer, who made sure I was taken care of. I need to return the rental car to Cowansville, QC (that is where the hospital is located where I was taken) to avoid a heavy drop off fee. Consequently, I would like to take the bus in Montreal which makes a stop in the city where I live (Lowell, MA). My problem is connecting with the bus station in Montreal. Also, any information about how to handle accidents in QC would be greatly appreciated. I have the info on how to get the accident report but I would appreciate any tips or suggestions QCers may have. Any information and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Regards to all, and thank you for your help and your patience with this email. Hector From agostinihp at earthlink.net Wed Aug 8 05:37:34 2007 From: agostinihp at earthlink.net (agostinihp at earthlink.net) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 07:37:34 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [Spits] Montreal, QC Message-ID: <14782120.1186573054823.JavaMail.root@elwamui-karabash.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Hi folks, I retried a Google search and I found the bus service info I need to get from Cowansville, QC to Montreal. I must have done something not right the first time. I hope that I have not inconvenienced anyone. However, any info on auto accidents or disposing of vehicle would be appreciated. thanks again, Hector From andrew.lindeman at gmail.com Wed Aug 8 16:14:59 2007 From: andrew.lindeman at gmail.com (Andrew Lindeman) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 16:14:59 -0600 Subject: [Spits] Looking for a big Healey Message-ID: <2cc65d5a0708081514h20170f6dt1667af069d8ea589@mail.gmail.com> I've convinced a friend here in Denver to ditch his Mitsubishi 3000GT and buy an LBC. After looking around and looking at his budget, he has decided he wants a AH 3000. Any of the models will do. He isn't looking for a project car, he already has one of those. If anybody knows where one is for sale, I'd love to her from you. Andy From carcentric at yahoo.com Thu Aug 9 15:21:37 2007 From: carcentric at yahoo.com (M D Nugent) Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2007 14:21:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] Looking for . . . (used Spit part) In-Reply-To: <46B4FAA0.90508@rmi.net> Message-ID: <543550.45703.qm@web33705.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Anybody have an extra EARLY rear spring assembly that's getting in your way? Could even be sagging as I'll be using it on something lighter than a Spit! Off-list reply to carcentric at yahoo.com with price and zipcode if you do. Thanks, M D "Doc" Nugent - http://www.carcentric.com Seattle area ____________________________________________________________________________________ Luggage? GPS? Comic books? Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=graduation+gifts&cs=bz From bdischer at blakedischer.com Thu Aug 9 22:11:31 2007 From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 00:11:31 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Looking for a big Healey In-Reply-To: <2cc65d5a0708081514h20170f6dt1667af069d8ea589@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <002101c7db04$8a01bbb0$02fea8c0@bjdtr3a> Mark Bradakis does have an Austin Healey list similar to this one, see http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ to subscribe. That would be a great place to start. Blake Discher, Detroit -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Lindeman Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 6:15 PM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Looking for a big Healey I've convinced a friend here in Denver to ditch his Mitsubishi 3000GT and buy an LBC. After looking around and looking at his budget, he has decided he wants a AH 3000. Any of the models will do. He isn't looking for a project car, he already has one of those. If anybody knows where one is for sale, I'd love to her from you. Andy _______________________________________________ Spitfires mailing list Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires From benson9273 at comcast.net Sun Aug 12 11:50:27 2007 From: benson9273 at comcast.net (John Benson) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2007 13:50:27 -0400 Subject: [Spits] For Sale in Baltimore, Maryland Message-ID: <008ED454-14B7-4A49-BA7B-09C87DEEDF64@comcast.net> 1979 Spit Six, green, soft and hard top, needs a caring home. John D. Benson 9273 Bellbeck Rd. Parkville, MD 21234 Write for more details if interested. Thanks!!! From clarkfot at cwnicholls.net Sun Aug 12 20:21:09 2007 From: clarkfot at cwnicholls.net (Clark W. Nicholls) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2007 22:21:09 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Spit6 For Sale in Baltimore, Maryland In-Reply-To: <008ED454-14B7-4A49-BA7B-09C87DEEDF64@comcast.net> References: <008ED454-14B7-4A49-BA7B-09C87DEEDF64@comcast.net> Message-ID: <002101c7dd50$9e2cd950$1342a8c0@semperon3400> Is there a website where photos can be seen? More description? What $$ are involved? Thanks, Clark -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Benson Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2007 1:50 PM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] For Sale in Baltimore, Maryland 1979 Spit Six, green, soft and hard top, needs a caring home. John D. Benson 9273 Bellbeck Rd. Parkville, MD 21234 Write for more details if interested. Thanks!!! _______________________________________________ Spitfires mailing list Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires From Windoseat at aol.com Tue Aug 14 17:51:03 2007 From: Windoseat at aol.com (Windoseat at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 19:51:03 EDT Subject: [Spits] GT6 Bump Steer Message-ID: I have read several articles on the fact that the GT6 has bump steer based on the location of the steering arms in relation to the chassis. Has anyone found a cure for this? I am about to look into the issue now that I have the chassis finished and painted. Imagine 37 years old and only two spots that rusted through on the outriggers and the rest is sound! Greg Wolf Bridgewater, Michigan 1970 Triumph GT6+ ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From ptegler at cablespeed.com Tue Aug 14 18:35:02 2007 From: ptegler at cablespeed.com (ptegler at cablespeed.com) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 20:35:02 -0400 Subject: [Spits] GT6 Bump Steer References: Message-ID: <024601c7ded4$212a1eb0$0201a8c0@dragonlair> ??? bump steer? What articles? The Spit and GT6 are identical regarding rack/arm upright steering geometry. Only the rack rates are different. How high does your suspension sit? I can't say I've EVER notice bump steer as an issue. Paul Tegler ptegler at cablespeed.com www.teglerizer.com ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 7:51 PM Subject: [Spits] GT6 Bump Steer >I have read several articles on the fact that the GT6 has bump steer based > on the location of the steering arms in relation to the chassis. Has > anyone > found a cure for this? I am about to look into the issue now that I have > the > chassis finished and painted. Imagine 37 years old and only two spots that > rusted through on the outriggers and the rest is sound! > > Greg Wolf > Bridgewater, Michigan > 1970 Triumph GT6+ From gharris at rochester.rr.com Tue Aug 14 20:24:00 2007 From: gharris at rochester.rr.com (Bob Harris) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 22:24:00 -0400 Subject: [Spits] GT6 Bump Steer References: Message-ID: <000a01c7dee3$58234f40$15224342@rochester.rr.com> Greg, I seem to remember reading that if the steering rack/tie rods are not level,you will experience bump steer.Shimming the rack up was the suggested cure. I don't remember where I read this and cannot attest to it being true. I am only repeating what I think I read. Bob Harris From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Aug 14 23:01:54 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 01:01:54 -0400 Subject: [Spits] GT6 Bump Steer In-Reply-To: <024601c7ded4$212a1eb0$0201a8c0@dragonlair> Message-ID: <46C25082.26165.227A5134@localhost> On 14 Aug 2007 at 20:35, ptegler at cablespeed.com wrote: > ??? bump steer? ... I can't say I've EVER notice bump steer as > an issue. Nor can I. Been driving a Spitfire for 20 years and a GT6 for maybe 5 and I've never felt anything I'd worry about like that. Bump steer could happen if the length of the tie rod isn't the same as the effective A-arm length at that height, or if the outer end of the tie rod doesn't follow a similar arc as the A-arms. I've never bothred to measure things like that but my memory says they aren't far out of whack if they are at all. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.17/951 - Release Date: 8/13/2007 10:15 AM From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Wed Aug 15 04:02:19 2007 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 06:02:19 -0400 Subject: [Spits] GT6 Bump Steer References: Message-ID: <001d01c7df23$5e8d0ca0$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us> And to quote Carter quoting Rick Cline "after all that work, I couldn't tell the difference on the racetrack ...". It's there, like it is in virtually every car. And like virtually every car, it's not a big issue. Even 4x4 pickup trucks, which tend to have remarkably horrible bump steer. It's caused by suspension motion. So the easy and very effective band-aid is to limit suspension motion. Most easily done with stiff springs. Not that these cars had a lot of suspension travel anyways. There's nothing unique about the GT6 front suspension compared to the Spitfire. So beware of an article that says something about it being a GT6 problem, but not a Spitfire problem. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 7:51 PM Subject: [Spits] GT6 Bump Steer >I have read several articles on the fact that the GT6 has bump steer based > on the location of the steering arms in relation to the chassis. Has > anyone > found a cure for this? I am about to look into the issue now that I have > the > chassis finished and painted. Imagine 37 years old and only two spots that > rusted through on the outriggers and the rest is sound! > > Greg Wolf > Bridgewater, Michigan > 1970 Triumph GT6+ From ccrisenbery at fellerfinch.com Wed Aug 15 06:45:29 2007 From: ccrisenbery at fellerfinch.com (Chris Crisenbery) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 08:45:29 -0400 Subject: [Spits] GT6 Bump Steer Message-ID: Hi Greg and the rest of the lists, Bumpsteer is certainly present in the Spitfire and I'm sure in the GT6 as well. If you want to see it in action take a jack place under your front cross member, take 2 - 2X4 and lay parallel with your front tires, measure roughly the toe setting of your tires and then raise the jack up 1 inch and remeasure (make sure you reset the 2X4 against the tires or you will show the same toe setting :^) I know Rick Cline - he builds many of the parts I use on my SCCA Spitfire and even he will admit tires have came a long way since he was racing. With that said street tires probably aren't as touchy as a 200 degree racing slick to steering input. We bump steer (adjust) the car every time we do a complete suspnsion alignment. My limited prep Spitfire has less than an 1/8in change in its toe setting over 3 inches of suspension travel. My highly modified suspension has zero toe change over 4 inches of suspension travel (2 in bump and 2 in droop) Greg I'm located in Jackson and would be happy to help you bump steer your GT6 and I believe it will make it a better driving car with very little work. If anyone else is interested I could detail out the steps needed to do it in your own garage...but it won't happen for a couple of weeks as I'm leaving for Topeka Friday for a National race and then Gingerman (near South Haven) is the very next week after I get back. ccrisenbery at fellerfinch.com ___________________________ Christopher E. Crisenbery, P.E. Feller, Finch & Associates, Inc. 2797 Spring Arbor Rd., Suite B Jackson, MI 49203 p/n (517) 783-0710 fax (517) 783-0711 From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net Wed Aug 15 11:48:23 2007 From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Bob Berger) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 12:48:23 -0500 Subject: [Spits] [TR] GT6 Bump Steer In-Reply-To: <005c01c7df62$413dd9b0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: Ok, I'm confused, exactly what happens when your car has a "bump steer" problem? Is this when the steering wheel is jerked out of my hands when I hit a pot hole? Or is it too subtle of a problem on a street car to even describe what happens. Bob Berger 78 Spitfire From ccrisenbery at fellerfinch.com Wed Aug 15 12:04:44 2007 From: ccrisenbery at fellerfinch.com (Chris Crisenbery) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 14:04:44 -0400 Subject: [Spits] [TR] GT6 Bump Steer Message-ID: As the suspension travels up and down the toe changes due to the different arcs involved between the upper and lower a-arms and the steering arm. If you really know what you are doing this toe change can be sometimes useful to help steer the car, other times it works against what you are trying to do. I suspect on a street car with DOT tires you might not notice that the wheels are pointing in different directions as you travel down the street, if the bump was really severe maybe the car might be a little darty on bumpy sections. By shimming the rack, or if you are willing to put heim joints on the steering arm instead of tie-rods you can preety much make the tires travel up and down without any change in toe. ___________________________ Christopher E. Crisenbery, P.E. Feller, Finch & Associates, Inc. 2797 Spring Arbor Rd., Suite B Jackson, MI 49203 p/n (517) 783-0710 fax (517) 783-0711 From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Thu Aug 16 04:40:04 2007 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 06:40:04 -0400 Subject: [Spits] [TR] GT6 Bump Steer References: <46C38103.15551.271FC6B0@localhost> Message-ID: <001801c7dff1$d2415d80$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us> Love the way this list server only puts occasional posts of mine up. Grr! Here's link to a simple picture showing bump steer. http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f48/fox-trapper/Spitfire/bumpsteer.jpg?t=1187259934 Simply put, bump steer happens when things don't move the same. The suspension arms go around one arc, and the steering rod goes around a different arc. So the tires turn from side to side as the wheels go over a bump. Fact, you cannot eliminate bump steer. Before you jump up and down screaming "oh yes you can", read on. All the focus in this thread on bump steer has been for straight ahead driving. You can eliminate it for that condition...sometimes. But cars turn. As soon as you turn the steering wheel you move the tie rod ends out of position, and bump steer comes right back. The tighter you turn, the more bump steer you get. That's just basic geometry when it comes to cars front suspensions and steering. How bad bump steer is depends on the design of the suspension and the steering components. Something like a Spitfire with a double wishbone suspension and rack type steering gear isn't that bad when it comes to bump steer. A McPherson strut suspension is much worse. Steering box and relay rod types of steering can be remarkably bad, just watch a 4x4 truck twisting around offroad some time to see this one. Bump steer is directly related to suspension motion. The less a suspension moves, the less bump steer there is, no matter how bad the geometry. From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Fri Aug 17 07:22:25 2007 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 09:22:25 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Speaking of Lucas and lighting...(tinting glass) Message-ID: <380-220078517132225271@M2W032.mail2web.com> Does anybody have a good way of tinting or coloring the inside of a glass front parking lamp lens to an amber color? I have tried using an amber 1157 (small) type bulb with no luck. The bulb has to be the small one inch ROUND not oblong (hot air balloon) type or it wont fit. The coating on them (or the ones that I have) eventually just burns off and you are left with a white or slightly yellowish bulb - I have also tried using LED bulbs but A, they are not as bright no matter how many LEDs they contain ( trust me, I have tried a bunch and still have them laying around in my bulb drawer), I can barely see the park lamp illumination in the daytime  and B, the ELECTRONIC flasher, the one that is supposed to work no matter what bulb type you have, does not flash when I use an LED lamp - So - I am looking to tint or color the inside amber so I can just use a standard 1157 type bulb  And no, I cant just get a colored glass for this unit or I would have already :-) Open to suggestions Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com - Microsoft. Exchange solutions from a leading provider - http://link.mail2web.com/Business/Exchange From fishplate at charter.net Fri Aug 17 07:50:38 2007 From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 9:50:38 -0400 Subject: [Spits] [TR] Speaking of Lucas and lighting...(tinting glass) In-Reply-To: <380-220078517132225271@M2W032.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <20070817095038.3BWQX.15013.root@fepweb13> ---- "v6spitfireguy at cox.net" wrote: > Does anybody have a good way of tinting or coloring the inside of a glass > front parking lamp lens to an amber color? Some hobby paints are sold in translucent colors - Tamiya is one brand. Check you local hobby shop where the radio-control car people hang out... Jeff Scarbrough Spitfires and a TR6 From ptegler at cablespeed.com Fri Aug 17 08:20:49 2007 From: ptegler at cablespeed.com (ptegler at cablespeed.com) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 10:20:49 -0400 Subject: [Spits] [TR] Speaking of Lucas and lighting...(tinting glass) References: <20070817095038.3BWQX.15013.root@fepweb13> Message-ID: <00a601c7e0d9$d096b050$0201a8c0@dragonlair> do it simply by just using an amber bulb! Paul Tegler ptegler at cablespeed.com www.teglerizer.com ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Cc: Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 9:50 AM Subject: Re: [Spits] [TR] Speaking of Lucas and lighting...(tinting glass) > ---- "v6spitfireguy at cox.net" wrote: >> Does anybody have a good way of tinting or coloring the inside of a glass >> front parking lamp lens to an amber color? > > Some hobby paints are sold in translucent colors - Tamiya is one brand. > Check you local hobby shop where the radio-control car people hang out... > > Jeff Scarbrough > Spitfires and a TR6 From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Fri Aug 17 11:24:16 2007 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 13:24:16 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Messages from non list members? Message-ID: <380-220078517172416265@M2W044.mail2web.com> Is any body else getting email from this outfit? "info at worldclassiccars.net" The reason I ask is that I only use THIS email address for the lists, nothing else. If I am the only one getting these, I can not understand how they got this email address! I've received about 8 in the last two days - -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com - Microsoft. Exchange solutions from a leading provider - http://link.mail2web.com/Business/Exchange From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Fri Aug 17 11:47:05 2007 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 13:47:05 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Messages from non list members? References: <380-220078517172416265@M2W044.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <000801c7e0f6$a1008150$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us> Look at the "To" list of this message. It's to the triumphs group and to your web address. All I did was reply to all senders. So your address is going out in the header from the list, and any spam-bot on any recipients computer would pick it up. I'm not getting messages from that site, but that's probably just a matter of time. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 1:24 PM Subject: [Spits] Messages from non list members? > Is any body else getting email from this outfit? > > "info at worldclassiccars.net" > > The reason I ask is that I only use THIS email address for the lists, > nothing else. > If I am the only one getting these, I can not understand how they got this > email address! > > I've received about 8 in the last two days - From spitlist at cox.net Fri Aug 17 12:14:52 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 11:14:52 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Messages from non list members? References: <380-220078517172416265@M2W044.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <007101c7e0fa$821c7f60$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Oh Yeah! I sent them a message saying that while I would love to buy the cars they were advertising, my funds are pitifully small and I would appreciate it if they would cease and desist in sending any more ads. Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 10:24 AM Subject: [Spits] Messages from non list members? > Is any body else getting email from this outfit? > > "info at worldclassiccars.net" > > The reason I ask is that I only use THIS email address for the lists, > nothing else. > If I am the only one getting these, I can not understand how they got this > email address! > > I've received about 8 in the last two days - > > -------------------------------------------------------------------- > mail2web.com - Microsoft. Exchange solutions from a leading provider - > http://link.mail2web.com/Business/Exchange > _______________________________________________ > Spitfires mailing list > Spitfires at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires From thomas.blondel at 9online.fr Sat Aug 18 02:17:42 2007 From: thomas.blondel at 9online.fr (Thomas Blondel) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 22:17:42 -1000 Subject: [Spits] Messages from non list members? In-Reply-To: <007101c7e0fa$821c7f60$2d02a8c0@Belkin> References: <380-220078517172416265@M2W044.mail2web.com> <007101c7e0fa$821c7f60$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: <46C6AB26.4050404@9online.fr> Moi aussi j'ai regu ces messages, mais les voitures sont trop loin de chez moi et un peu chhre pour moi Joe Curry a icrit : > Oh Yeah! I sent them a message saying that while I would love to buy the > cars they were advertising, my funds are pitifully small and I would > appreciate it if they would cease and desist in sending any more ads. > > Joe > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Cc: > Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 10:24 AM > Subject: [Spits] Messages from non list members? > > > >> Is any body else getting email from this outfit? >> >> "info at worldclassiccars.net" >> >> The reason I ask is that I only use THIS email address for the lists, >> nothing else. >> If I am the only one getting these, I can not understand how they got this >> email address! >> >> I've received about 8 in the last two days - >> >> -------------------------------------------------------------------- >> mail2web.com - Microsoft. Exchange solutions from a leading provider - >> http://link.mail2web.com/Business/Exchange >> _______________________________________________ >> Spitfires mailing list >> Spitfires at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires >> > _______________________________________________ > Spitfires mailing list > Spitfires at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires From dwoerpel at wi.net Fri Aug 17 22:48:41 2007 From: dwoerpel at wi.net (David Woerpel) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 23:48:41 -0500 Subject: [Spits] ZDDP again Message-ID: <46C67A29.4090105@wi.net> Anyone know anything about this product? http://www.7ent.com/detail.cfm?pageid=2957 Dave 59 :{) 59 MGA 1500 05 MCS Burlington WI From JHMDDS at aol.com Fri Aug 17 23:12:35 2007 From: JHMDDS at aol.com (JHMDDS at aol.com) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 01:12:35 EDT Subject: [Spits] Spitfire Header Message-ID: Help. I'm looking for a high preformance exhaust header (free flow) for my 1300cc Spitfire project. My mechanic says stay away from Pacesetter/Monza parts. I bought a great Strebo header but fitting is a problem. He says I need a good 4 into 2 into to 1 or "Tri Y" type. I have found one from Ted and one from APT, both are $275. I'm not against paying for these I just was interested to find out if this is what I should get and if I can possibly get one for at a better price. Regards, James ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From cbking at alum.rpi.edu Sat Aug 18 05:46:40 2007 From: cbking at alum.rpi.edu (Chris King) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 04:46:40 -0700 Subject: [Spits] [Spridgets] ZDDP again Message-ID: <27c901c7e18d$70ee4410$0d6a010a@mail2world.com> You can get something similar at your local GM dealer: http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/flat_tappet_cam_tech/photo_05. html I don't know price, ppm. YMMV, etc. -=Chris Chris King http://home.comcast.net/~kvcbk/ <-----Original Message-----> From: David Woerpel [dwoerpel at wi.net] Sent: 8/18/2007 12:48:41 AM To: mgs at autox.team.net;Spridgets at autox.team.net;spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spridgets] ZDDP again Anyone know anything about this product? http://www.7ent.com/detail.cfm?pageid=2957 Dave 59 :{) 59 MGA 1500 05 MCS Burlington WI _______________________________________________ From pnhnt at insight.rr.com Sat Aug 18 07:12:20 2007 From: pnhnt at insight.rr.com (The Family Jefferson) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 09:12:20 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Spitfire Header In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000b01c7e199$6d0f17a0$6501a8c0@howard2wvz0stb> James, I bought a header from Ted for my 75 Spitfire 1500 when I converted to dual SU's. The other stainless steel headers Considering Rimmer Bros. was about $300 (plus shipping) and Spitbits was $400 (plus all that other stuff) I went with Ted. When I installed them, I was told I should have gotten the ceramic coated version, but those are a bit more. R/ Howard Pickerington, Ohio -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of JHMDDS at aol.com Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 1:13 AM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Spitfire Header Help. I'm looking for a high preformance exhaust header (free flow) for my 1300cc Spitfire project. My mechanic says stay away from Pacesetter/Monza parts. I bought a great Strebo header but fitting is a problem. He says I need a good 4 into 2 into to 1 or "Tri Y" type. I have found one from Ted and one from APT, both are $275. I'm not against paying for these I just was interested to find out if this is what I should get and if I can possibly get one for at a better price. Regards, James ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour _______________________________________________ Spitfires mailing list Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires From jholmgren at advertising.com Sat Aug 18 08:19:05 2007 From: jholmgren at advertising.com (Jim Holmgren) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 10:19:05 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Spitfire Header In-Reply-To: <000b01c7e199$6d0f17a0$6501a8c0@howard2wvz0stb> References: <000b01c7e199$6d0f17a0$6501a8c0@howard2wvz0stb> Message-ID: <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A6102CA6667E1@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com> I bought the European spec Tri-Y exhaust header from John Esposito at Quantum Mechanics. It was OEM to the European Spits and works/fits very nicely, plus it is cast iron and I'm told not nearly as prone to cracking as the stock US exhaust manifold. Warning: This will NOT work with the single Stromberg carb setup without significant modification to the water jacket - ask me how I know. :) I will fit the 1500 and the 8-port 1300's. For $150 + shipping, IMO can't be beat, especially if you are running dual carbs! http://www.quantumechanics.com/categories.php?op=newindex&catid=5 Otherwise, I'd go with Ted - I bought my twin-HS4 carbs from him (among other things). :) Jim '75 Spitfire 1500 '68 Spitfire Mk3 NASS #302 York, PA www.littlebluespitfire.com -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of The Family Jefferson Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 9:12 AM To: JHMDDS at aol.com Cc: 'Spitfire' Subject: Re: [Spits] Spitfire Header James, I bought a header from Ted for my 75 Spitfire 1500 when I converted to dual SU's. The other stainless steel headers Considering Rimmer Bros. was about $300 (plus shipping) and Spitbits was $400 (plus all that other stuff) I went with Ted. When I installed them, I was told I should have gotten the ceramic coated version, but those are a bit more. R/ Howard Pickerington, Ohio -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of JHMDDS at aol.com Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 1:13 AM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Spitfire Header Help. I'm looking for a high preformance exhaust header (free flow) for my 1300cc Spitfire project. My mechanic says stay away from Pacesetter/Monza parts. I bought a great Strebo header but fitting is a problem. He says I need a good 4 into 2 into to 1 or "Tri Y" type. I have found one from Ted and one from APT, both are $275. I'm not against paying for these I just was interested to find out if this is what I should get and if I can possibly get one for at a better price. Regards, James The information transmitted in this email is intended only for the person(s) or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you received this email in error, please contact the sender and permanently delete the email from any computer. From bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk Sat Aug 18 08:58:27 2007 From: bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk (Rarebits) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 15:58:27 +0100 Subject: [Spits] Spitfire Header In-Reply-To: <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A6102CA6667E1@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com> Message-ID: <20070818145015.8E3DF187A08@autox.team.net> > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Holmgren > > I bought the European spec Tri-Y exhaust header from John Esposito at > Quantum > Mechanics. It was OEM to the European Spits and works/fits very nicely, > plus > it is cast iron and I'm told not nearly as prone to cracking as the stock > US > exhaust manifold. This cast twin-pipe manifold has a very poor reputation here in the UK. The downpipe gasket is liable to blowing with monotonous regularity. I always recommend losing that manifold as one of the best reliability improvements to be made on a 1500 Spitfire. And no, I don't have a vested interest in selling tubular manifolds - I make good money selling vast quantities of 1500 downpipe gaskets........ Cheers, Bill. Rarebits4classics .......just what you've been looking for PO Box 1232 Calne Wiltshire SN11 8WA United Kingdom http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk From cbking at alum.rpi.edu Sat Aug 18 11:03:03 2007 From: cbking at alum.rpi.edu (Chris King) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 10:03:03 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Spitfire Header Message-ID: <000b01c7e1b9$a3de4240$056a010a@mail2world.com> I second the one from Ted. I bought one for my 1500 Midget, and it works well and fit well. The one I got was routed specifically for the Midget, and had a Maniflow tag on it when I got it. Quality parts, though the one I bought was mild steel. I agree, I probably should have sprung for the ceramic coating. It keeps the header looking better longer (mine's got some surface rust on it), and on hot days after a run on the interstate, I'll sometimes have problems with the fuel boiling in the float bowls. I understand the ceramic coating will radiate less heat. -=Chris Chris King http://home.comcast.net/~kvcbk/ <-----Original Message-----> From: The Family Jefferson [pnhnt at insight.rr.com] Sent: 8/18/2007 9:12:20 AM To: JHMDDS at aol.com Cc: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] Spitfire Header James, I bought a header from Ted for my 75 Spitfire 1500 when I converted to dual SU's. The other stainless steel headers Considering Rimmer Bros. was about $300 (plus shipping) and Spitbits was $400 (plus all that other stuff) I went with Ted. When I installed them, I was told I should have gotten the ceramic coated version, but those are a bit more. R/ Howard Pickerington, Ohio -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of JHMDDS at aol.com Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 1:13 AM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Spitfire Header Help. I'm looking for a high preformance exhaust header (free flow) for my 1300cc Spitfire project. My mechanic says stay away from Pacesetter/Monza parts. I bought a great Strebo header but fitting is a problem. He says I need a good 4 into 2 into to 1 or "Tri Y" type. I have found one from Ted and one from APT, both are $275. I'm not against paying for these I just was interested to find out if this is what I should get and if I can possibly get one for at a better price. . From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Sat Aug 18 14:44:05 2007 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Shcwartz) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 14:44:05 Subject: [Spits] Tinting glass update Message-ID: <3.0.4.16.20070818144405.18ff40b4@pop.west.cox.net> Well as one lister suggested using glass paint made for stained glass applications, I went down to my local Michael's and sure enough, they had it. Made by Krylon specifically for glass. It wasn't quite as orange as I would have liked, but it is certainly better than what I had. Took about four coats, and interestingly, smelled like bug spray not like typical spray paint. - Now I'll see how it holds up in the real world with heat from the bulb and all. I'll post any negative findings - But if anybody needs to tint their parking lamp glass - it may be an option - Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) From parrotthead01 at comcast.net Sat Aug 18 15:48:03 2007 From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net (Daniel parrott) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 17:48:03 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Spitfire Header In-Reply-To: <000b01c7e1b9$a3de4240$056a010a@mail2world.com> References: <000b01c7e1b9$a3de4240$056a010a@mail2world.com> Message-ID: <023801c7e1e1$74a4ff50$6501a8c0@DANSDELL> I agree. I sprung for a Bell stainless steel 4-2-1 header from Rimmer Brothers that I sent on to get ceramic coated, inside and out. I've been very pleased, especially here in Savannah, Ga. -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris King Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 1:03 PM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] Spitfire Header I second the one from Ted. I bought one for my 1500 Midget, and it works well and fit well. The one I got was routed specifically for the Midget, and had a Maniflow tag on it when I got it. Quality parts, though the one I bought was mild steel. I agree, I probably should have sprung for the ceramic coating. It keeps the header looking better longer (mine's got some surface rust on it), and on hot days after a run on the interstate, I'll sometimes have problems with the fuel boiling in the float bowls. I understand the ceramic coating will radiate less heat. -=Chris Chris King http://home.comcast.net/~kvcbk/ <-----Original Message-----> From: The Family Jefferson [pnhnt at insight.rr.com] Sent: 8/18/2007 9:12:20 AM To: JHMDDS at aol.com Cc: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] Spitfire Header James, I bought a header from Ted for my 75 Spitfire 1500 when I converted to dual SU's. The other stainless steel headers Considering Rimmer Bros. was about $300 (plus shipping) and Spitbits was $400 (plus all that other stuff) I went with Ted. When I installed them, I was told I should have gotten the ceramic coated version, but those are a bit more. R/ Howard Pickerington, Ohio -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of JHMDDS at aol.com Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 1:13 AM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Spitfire Header Help. I'm looking for a high preformance exhaust header (free flow) for my 1300cc Spitfire project. My mechanic says stay away from Pacesetter/Monza parts. I bought a great Strebo header but fitting is a problem. He says I need a good 4 into 2 into to 1 or "Tri Y" type. I have found one from Ted and one from APT, both are $275. I'm not against paying for these I just was interested to find out if this is what I should get and if I can possibly get one for at a better price. . _______________________________________________ Spitfires mailing list Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires From pnhnt at insight.rr.com Sat Aug 18 16:03:31 2007 From: pnhnt at insight.rr.com (The Family Jefferson) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 18:03:31 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Spitfire Header In-Reply-To: <023801c7e1e1$74a4ff50$6501a8c0@DANSDELL> References: <000b01c7e1b9$a3de4240$056a010a@mail2world.com> <023801c7e1e1$74a4ff50$6501a8c0@DANSDELL> Message-ID: <000901c7e1e3$a1337b80$6501a8c0@howard2wvz0stb> Especially down south, with all that humidity and heat. R/ Howard -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Daniel parrott Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 5:48 PM To: 'Chris King'; spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] Spitfire Header I agree. I sprung for a Bell stainless steel 4-2-1 header from Rimmer Brothers that I sent on to get ceramic coated, inside and out. I've been very pleased, especially here in Savannah, Ga. -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris King Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 1:03 PM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] Spitfire Header I second the one from Ted. I bought one for my 1500 Midget, and it works well and fit well. The one I got was routed specifically for the Midget, and had a Maniflow tag on it when I got it. Quality parts, though the one I bought was mild steel. I agree, I probably should have sprung for the ceramic coating. It keeps the header looking better longer (mine's got some surface rust on it), and on hot days after a run on the interstate, I'll sometimes have problems with the fuel boiling in the float bowls. I understand the ceramic coating will radiate less heat. -=Chris Chris King http://home.comcast.net/~kvcbk/ <-----Original Message-----> From: The Family Jefferson [pnhnt at insight.rr.com] Sent: 8/18/2007 9:12:20 AM To: JHMDDS at aol.com Cc: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] Spitfire Header James, I bought a header from Ted for my 75 Spitfire 1500 when I converted to dual SU's. The other stainless steel headers Considering Rimmer Bros. was about $300 (plus shipping) and Spitbits was $400 (plus all that other stuff) I went with Ted. When I installed them, I was told I should have gotten the ceramic coated version, but those are a bit more. R/ Howard Pickerington, Ohio -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of JHMDDS at aol.com Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 1:13 AM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Spitfire Header Help. I'm looking for a high preformance exhaust header (free flow) for my 1300cc Spitfire project. My mechanic says stay away from Pacesetter/Monza parts. I bought a great Strebo header but fitting is a problem. He says I need a good 4 into 2 into to 1 or "Tri Y" type. I have found one from Ted and one from APT, both are $275. I'm not against paying for these I just was interested to find out if this is what I should get and if I can possibly get one for at a better price. . _______________________________________________ Spitfires mailing list Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires _______________________________________________ Spitfires mailing list Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires From ljvaughan at pldi.net Sat Aug 18 16:27:51 2007 From: ljvaughan at pldi.net (Larry Vaughan) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 17:27:51 -0500 Subject: [Spits] fan clutch Message-ID: <46C77267.9080907@pldi.net> I bought a new water pump for my Spitfire. It's a mongrel but I went with the 1977 large upright radiator and the clutch type fan. Before I mounted the clutch on the new water pump, I heated it up with a hair dryer to see how much the resistance changed. When it was too hot to handle bare handed, with mitts, I could turn the center part as easily as when it was cold? There is a fair amount of resistance cold but it should increase with heat right? How much heat? To the point of lock up? Larry From spitlist at cox.net Sat Aug 18 16:53:05 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 15:53:05 -0700 Subject: [Spits] fan clutch In-Reply-To: <46C77267.9080907@pldi.net> References: <46C77267.9080907@pldi.net> Message-ID: <001101c7e1ea$89fca020$2202a8c0@newcomputer> Larry, I think you are talking about the "Viscous coupler", which is not a clutch at all and as I understand the thing it does not react to temperature at all. Instead it is designed to limit the fan speed at higher rpm to reduce noise and limit the pull don on the engine as it virtually free wheels at higher rpm. I think the theory is that it pulls when you are driving around town where the speed is not sufficient to keep natural air flow through the radiator. When you are at speed the thing free wheels allowing the natural air flow to cool the engine. Someone please correct me if I am wrong. Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Larry Vaughan Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 3:28 PM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] fan clutch I bought a new water pump for my Spitfire. It's a mongrel but I went with the 1977 large upright radiator and the clutch type fan. Before I mounted the clutch on the new water pump, I heated it up with a hair dryer to see how much the resistance changed. When it was too hot to handle bare handed, with mitts, I could turn the center part as easily as when it was cold? There is a fair amount of resistance cold but it should increase with heat right? How much heat? To the point of lock up? Larry _______________________________________________ Spitfires mailing list Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires From ljvaughan at pldi.net Sat Aug 18 18:17:15 2007 From: ljvaughan at pldi.net (Larry Vaughan) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 19:17:15 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Spitfire Header In-Reply-To: <20070818145015.8E3DF187A08@autox.team.net> References: <20070818145015.8E3DF187A08@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <46C78C0B.1020808@pldi.net> Thanks Bill. I now have for sale a nice European spec intake/exhaust setup for the late 1300 and 1500 Spitfires. > http://ljvaughan.homestead.com/Europeanintakeaxhaust.html Larry Rarebits wrote: >>bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Holmgren >> >>I bought the European spec Tri-Y exhaust header from John Esposito at >>Quantum >>Mechanics. It was OEM to the European Spits and works/fits very nicely, >>plus >>it is cast iron and I'm told not nearly as prone to cracking as the stock >>US >>exhaust manifold. > > > This cast twin-pipe manifold has a very poor reputation here in the UK. The > downpipe gasket is liable to blowing with monotonous regularity. I always > recommend losing that manifold as one of the best reliability improvements > to be made on a 1500 Spitfire. > And no, I don't have a vested interest in selling tubular manifolds - I make > good money selling vast quantities of 1500 downpipe gaskets........ > Cheers, > Bill. From Windoseat at aol.com Sun Aug 19 08:02:22 2007 From: Windoseat at aol.com (Windoseat at aol.com) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 10:02:22 EDT Subject: [Spits] GT6 Bump Steer Message-ID: One was on the Grass Roots Motorsports website in an article on the Group 44 GT6. The other was in a Triumphtune article on modifying the GT6. it had to do with having to mount the steering rack low to clear the oil pan. Greg ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From Windoseat at aol.com Sun Aug 19 08:10:34 2007 From: Windoseat at aol.com (Windoseat at aol.com) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 10:10:34 EDT Subject: [Spits] GT6 Bump Steer Message-ID: Since I read about this in an article about a racing GT6 it may be an issue when lowering the suspension for racing. The issues were mentioned on a Group 44 GT6. And it evidently made the GT6 a handfull to drive. Greg ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From Windoseat at aol.com Sun Aug 19 08:18:31 2007 From: Windoseat at aol.com (Windoseat at aol.com) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 10:18:31 EDT Subject: [Spits] [TR] GT6 Bump Steer Message-ID: Skip; I remember that book. I used the technique to eliminate bump steer and and another issue on my Toyota Corolla racer. I don't know what happened to the book but I'm going to see if I can find another copy of it. I also had a book (notebook) that had a lot of information on suspension design and formulas for calculating suspension layouts. Greg ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From ljvaughan at pldi.net Tue Aug 21 17:07:30 2007 From: ljvaughan at pldi.net (Larry Vaughan) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 18:07:30 -0500 Subject: [Spits] fan clutch In-Reply-To: <001101c7e1ea$89fca020$2202a8c0@newcomputer> References: <46C77267.9080907@pldi.net> <001101c7e1ea$89fca020$2202a8c0@newcomputer> Message-ID: <46CB7032.1020502@pldi.net> Hey Joe, That explains why a ford or chevy heats up driving thru mud, the ones with viscous couplers known as clutch fans anyway. So the improvement over fixed fans may not have been much of an improvement. Electric fans appear to be the best bet, if you don't blow a fuse. I should probably use the 1973 fixed fan. Its light weight plastic. Let me hear some opinions on the best fan setup. I am aware that an electric fan mounted on the front of the radiator blocks airflow at high speed, so it is not much of a back up except in town. Larry Joe Curry wrote: > Larry, > I think you are talking about the "Viscous coupler", which is not a clutch > at all and as I understand the thing it does not react to temperature at > all. Instead it is designed to limit the fan speed at higher rpm to reduce > noise and limit the pull don on the engine as it virtually free wheels at > higher rpm. I think the theory is that it pulls when you are driving around > town where the speed is not sufficient to keep natural air flow through the > radiator. When you are at speed the thing free wheels allowing the natural > air flow to cool the engine. > > Someone please correct me if I am wrong. > > Joe From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Wed Aug 22 03:54:07 2007 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 05:54:07 -0400 Subject: [Spits] fan clutch References: <46C77267.9080907@pldi.net><001101c7e1ea$89fca020$2202a8c0@newcomputer> <46CB7032.1020502@pldi.net> Message-ID: <003101c7e4a2$618576c0$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us> The fan clutch is a bit of both. It reacts both to rpm and to temperature, hoping to achieve the good effect of pulling air through the radiator only when it needs to. Failure of the units is usually detected by seeing the fan slowly turning with a hot engine. They aren't my first choice for a cooling fan, but they've worked pretty well in those applications where I had them as oem installations. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Vaughan" To: "Joe Curry" Cc: Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 7:07 PM Subject: Re: [Spits] fan clutch > Hey Joe, > That explains why a ford or chevy heats up driving thru mud, the ones > with viscous couplers known as clutch fans anyway. So the improvement > over fixed fans may not have been much of an improvement. Electric fans > appear to be the best bet, if you don't blow a fuse. > I should probably use the 1973 fixed fan. Its light weight plastic. > Let me hear some opinions on the best fan setup. I am aware that an > electric fan mounted on the front of the radiator blocks airflow at high > speed, so it is not much of a back up except in town. > > Larry > > Joe Curry wrote: >> Larry, >> I think you are talking about the "Viscous coupler", which is not a >> clutch >> at all and as I understand the thing it does not react to temperature at >> all. Instead it is designed to limit the fan speed at higher rpm to >> reduce >> noise and limit the pull don on the engine as it virtually free wheels at >> higher rpm. I think the theory is that it pulls when you are driving >> around >> town where the speed is not sufficient to keep natural air flow through >> the >> radiator. When you are at speed the thing free wheels allowing the >> natural >> air flow to cool the engine. From zoboherald at aol.com Wed Aug 22 07:50:54 2007 From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 09:50:54 -0400 Subject: [Spits] fan clutch In-Reply-To: <003101c7e4a2$618576c0$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us> References: <46C77267.9080907@pldi.net><001101c7e1ea$89fca020$2202a8c0@newcomputer> <46CB7032.1020502@pldi.net> <003101c7e4a2$618576c0$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: <8C9B2DA97B45693-A58-768C@webmail-dd10.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Nolan The fan clutch is a bit of both. It reacts both to rpm and to temperature, hoping to achieve the good effect of pulling air through the radiator only when it needs to. Failure of the units is usually detected by seeing the fan slowly turning with a hot engine. ==AM== Unfortunately, failure of these units is also detected by pieces of the fan -- mounted to what's left of the clutch mechanism -- imbedding themselves in the rear face of your radiator. Personally, I've never had to deal with that on a Spitfire, but over the years I dealt with that situation a couple of times on Volvo 140 series cars, which used the identical clutch. :-( --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: ________________________________________________________________________ AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com. From ptegler at cablespeed.com Fri Aug 24 14:15:21 2007 From: ptegler at cablespeed.com (ptegler at cablespeed.com) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 16:15:21 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Brake line needed Message-ID: <000501c7e68b$80dc43b0$0201a8c0@dragonlair> Hi All.... Is there anyone in the Severn, Odenton, Crofton, South of Baltimore area out there that happens to have a spare late squaretail Spitfire rear flex brake line they could part with? I need the flex line that runs from rear hard line out to the wheel brake back plate mounted hardline. Both ends of the flex line have the tapered end for the hard line to mate too. Even a decent used condition hose will work for now. If you only have a set.... that would work to. The problem is I need it ASAP... hence my 'regional' request.... somewhere I could drive to pick it up this evening or Saturday. Mountjoy, Motorhead, Napa, Autozone, Carquest, Pep Boys, Olympic.... none have anything in stock :-( HELP! Paul Tegler ptegler at cablespeed.com www.teglerizer.com From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Mon Aug 27 06:11:51 2007 From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 08:11:51 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Weird engine idle In-Reply-To: Message-ID: This started a couple weekends ago when I was out of a cruise. My Spitfire 1500, with twin HS4s, was working fine until I stopped for lunch and went to start it again. Car started running like it was running on 3 cylinders. I checked and found the plug wire to #3 not "clicking" onto the spark plug. I changed to a spare plug wire I carry, but still the car didn't run well, so I just nursed the car home. At one stop light, in an effort to keep the car running, I pulled the choke out and the car started running better, weird. Back home, I put a new set of plug wires on, no change, I then replaced the spark plugs, no change. I did a compression test: 140, 135, 135, 140. I started checking the SUs. I found that the rear jet was not retracting all the way when the choke was fully pushed in. Took the carb off and found the choke's return spring out of place, fixed that and tried starting the car. The car is running better, but is idling weird. When the engine is up the operating temperature, the car will idle at 800 rpm and then, all of a sudden jump to say 1500 to 2000 rpm while I am sitting, staring at the carbs. After 10 sec the idle drops back down to 800 and then after another 10 sec jumps back up to 1500 - 2000 rpm. Neither carb is flooding, they seem to be working well. Any suggestions as to what to look at next? Distributor? Mark 80 Spitfire 1500 From clarkfot at cwnicholls.net Mon Aug 27 10:55:44 2007 From: clarkfot at cwnicholls.net (Clark W. Nicholls) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 12:55:44 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Weird engine idle In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00ad01c7e8cb$1d83cad0$1342a8c0@semperon3400> Check the spark plug for #3, and the distributor cap. If your test produced a spark on the other 3 cylinders, something is wrong in the #3 circuit. Could be the plug lost its electrode. Try replacing the plug first, then the dist cap. Clark From clarkfot at cwnicholls.net Mon Aug 27 15:07:54 2007 From: clarkfot at cwnicholls.net (Clark W. Nicholls) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 17:07:54 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Weird engine idle In-Reply-To: References: <00ad01c7e8cb$1d83cad0$1342a8c0@semperon3400> Message-ID: <000801c7e8ee$57a1caf0$1342a8c0@semperon3400> Are you sure there's no spark only on that cylinder? Check the points gap too. Try it on different dist cam lobes, see if it changes. If the distributor is worn and the shaft wobbles it could be worse on that one cylinder perhaps. I solved my worn distributor by installing the crane/Allison solid state system. Let us know! -----Original Message----- From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com [mailto:mark.jones at exxonmobil.com] Sent: Monday, August 27, 2007 1:24 PM To: Clark W. Nicholls Subject: RE: [Spits] Weird engine idle Hi Clark, Already replaced the sparkplugs, no change. As I was typing my email this morning I thought about the distributor cap and rotor. I have checked the cap, but I think I will change it and the rotor with the ones that were taken off this spring. Thanks, Mark From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Tue Aug 28 05:37:37 2007 From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 07:37:37 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Weird engine idle In-Reply-To: <000801c7e8ee$57a1caf0$1342a8c0@semperon3400> Message-ID: Originally there was no spark at #3. I put a new set of plugwires on and now there is spark. I think I lead you astray, when I said there was no change, I meant in terms of how the engine was acting. The distributor has a Crane electronic ignition and I had my distributor rebuilt last winter. I did put an older cap and rotor on the distributor, but called away before I had a chance to fire up the car, tonight's project. "Clark W. Nicholls" net> cc: Subject: RE: [Spits] Weird engine idle 08/27/2007 05:07 PM Are you sure there's no spark only on that cylinder? Check the points gap too. Try it on different dist cam lobes, see if it changes. If the distributor is worn and the shaft wobbles it could be worse on that one cylinder perhaps. I solved my worn distributor by installing the crane/Allison solid state system. Let us know! From clarkfot at cwnicholls.net Tue Aug 28 17:57:39 2007 From: clarkfot at cwnicholls.net (Clark W. Nicholls) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 19:57:39 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Weird engine idle In-Reply-To: References: <000801c7e8ee$57a1caf0$1342a8c0@semperon3400> Message-ID: <005701c7e9cf$38acf6b0$1342a8c0@semperon3400> Ok, good... How long has the Crane system been in? Has it run fine for some time with that or is it a new installation? Does the car run fine for some distance (10-20 miles perhaps) and then start to die? If so, when that happens check the temperature of your ignition coil. If it's too hot to touch, you need a ballast resistor. Perhaps more info of use here: http://www.cwnicholls.com/spitfire02a.html Good luck, Clark From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Wed Aug 29 08:24:57 2007 From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 10:24:57 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Weird engine idle In-Reply-To: <005701c7e9cf$38acf6b0$1342a8c0@semperon3400> Message-ID: The Crane ignition system has been installed since the end of June, replaced a Pertronix unit, which replaced the original Opus system several years ago. There was several hundred miles on the Crane system before this problem arose. The car runs poor right from being started up, idles at 800 - 1000 for about 15 sec, jumps to 2000 - 2500 for 15 sec, and then back down to 800 - 1000, and then continues to cycle up and down. I don't think the coil gets that hot, but I'll have to confirm that. The late 1500s used a ballasted wire, which has not been bypassed. I have put the older cap and rotor on the distributor, but haven't started the car to check if it made a difference. I'm also planning to change the fuel, just to eliminate that as a possible cause. After that I'm not sure what to check. Mark 80 Spitfire 1500 "Clark W. Nicholls" net> cc: Subject: RE: [Spits] Weird engine idle 08/28/2007 07:57 PM Ok, good... How long has the Crane system been in? Has it run fine for some time with that or is it a new installation? Does the car run fine for some distance (10-20 miles perhaps) and then start to die? If so, when that happens check the temperature of your ignition coil. If it's too hot to touch, you need a ballast resistor. Perhaps more info of use here: http://www.cwnicholls.com/spitfire02a.html Good luck, Clark From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Wed Aug 29 14:40:26 2007 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 12:40:26 -0800 Subject: [Spits] LABOR DAY BRITISH CAR TOUR STARTING IN MALIBU, CA Message-ID: ***************************************************** Fun SoCal Event! - Labor Day Labor Day is coming! That means it's time to get your British classic tuned up in preparation for the 2007 All British Labor Day Run. September 3, 2007 ~ Malibu, California This is the third and final holiday run for the season, so don't miss out! The Labor Day Run caters to those who love twisty canyon roads, and is definitely not for anyone who suffers car sickness. The route follows some of the most fun sports car roads in the Santa Monica mountains, but is perfectly suitable for sedans or slower drivers as well. We will meet at the Malibu Colony Plaza located at 23841 West Malibu Road, at the southwest corner of Pacific Coast Highway and Webb Way, approximately 12 miles northwest from where I-10 t runs into PCH. Meeting time is 8:45 AM with rollout at 9:30 AM. This is an unorganized event. Everyone is welcome ! There is a restaurant (Coogie9s) in the plaza for breakfast and a Starbucks for coffee and snacks, but you may want to call ahead to make sure they will be open on the holiday. Fuel is expensive in Malib so yo may want to fill p a few miles before yo arrive. There is little fuel available on the driving route unless yoo take a detour into town. There also is a serious lack of restrooms along this route. There is no shortage of bushes but not much civilization! Your best bet for an actual toilet is on Pacific Coast Highway near Las Flores Canyon Road. Keep this in mind when you9re ordering that second cup of coffee. For anyone coming from out of the area, there is a nice "Good Night Inn" in Calabasas, ten minutes from Malibu. Rates are reasonable (around $60) with AAA discounts. Details and a printable route sheet can be found here: http://www.socalbritishmotoring.com/viewtopic.php?t=250 Photos from previous events can be viewed at: http://www.socalbritishmotoring.com/2006labordayrun/ See you there! mail at socalbritishmotoring.com ****************************************************** From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Thu Aug 30 07:09:15 2007 From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 09:09:15 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Weird engine idle In-Reply-To: <009f01c7ea8e$f8b956a0$1342a8c0@semperon3400> Message-ID: Doesn't sound like ignition to me either. Twin HS4s for carburettors. I adjusted the mixture a couple weeks before the problem, probably have a couple hundred miles on them since adjusting the mixture, The car was over in the Michigan when this happened and had several tanks of MI gas put in it. A friend, who was travelling with us in an MGB, noticed his fuel filter was very discoloured, I wonder if something has happened to mine as well? Replacing the fuel filter is actually the next thing I was thinking of trying, got a spare sitting on the work bench, waiting for me to get home. "Clark W. Nicholls" net> cc: Subject: RE: [Spits] Weird engine idle 08/29/2007 06:50 PM It doesn't really sound like an ignition problem... What is your carburetion system? Anything change there recently? From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Thu Aug 30 21:10:17 2007 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 19:10:17 -0800 Subject: [Spits] San Diego British Car Day - Sunday, October 7 Message-ID: >From: "Steve" >To: "Richard Feibusch" >Subject: San Diego British Car Day >Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 18:30:10 -0700 > >Hi Folks-- > >Just a reminder . . . > >This year we are NOT snail mailing the Registration Forms for the upcoming (Sunday, October 7th) San Diego British Car Day. 28th ANNUAL SAN DIEGO BRITISH CAR DAY & PICNIC Sunday, October 7, 2007 Fairbrook Farms, 4949 S. Mission Road Fallbrook, California (directions below) www.sandiegobritishcarday.org > >I've attached the form and explanation page for your convenience. Pre-Registration is only $20.00. By Pre-registering you save $5.00 at the gate, you save considerable time (by not having to wait in line . . . on what is usually a warm day!) and it allows the organizers to order the correct number of trophies and organize the field for the number and type of cars pre-registered. > >Please share the form with any and all who are interested!!! > >In order to be pre-registered, we need to have your form and check returned to us by September 10th. > >We hope to see you all there! We'll have wonderful vendors and the Cameron Highlanders Bagpipers--back by popular demand. The last 5 years, we have been averaging around 430 wonderful British cars! > >Plan on bringing a picnic and your own beverages, or enjoying the wonderful food provided by our ultra fantastic food vendor, Hogg's Beach BBQ. > >QUESTIONS? Please call San Diego British Car Day Info Line: 760-746-1458 Steve Kirby From joe at ados.net Fri Aug 31 23:37:45 2007 From: joe at ados.net (Joe & Lowetta) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2007 22:37:45 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Suspension updates Message-ID: <20070901053817.3C6C81879E0@autox.team.net> I am in the planning stages of a significant overhaul of the brakes and suspension on my '73 Spitfire. Some of the items to be addressed are: New master cylinder Rebuilt calipers Stainless braided brake hoses Slotted and cross drilled rotors Ceramic brake pads Polyurethane bushings for all of the front suspension New front trunions Sway bar bushings and end links New adjustable shocks and springs front & rear Differential bushings I bought the car about 5 years ago and made some necessary repairs, so some items are not in need of repair at this time. It got all new rear brakes (wheel cylinders, shoes and springs), rear trunnions rebuilt, one new rear wheel bearing and half shaft u-joint and trailing arm bushings. All the other rear suspension parts were inspected and were nice and tight including all the other u-joints and bushings. The rear spring does have the usual sag but is otherwise undamaged. There are a few things I haven't made up my mind on and thought I'd ask what others with more experience in this type of work think about some of the choices yet to be made. I am currently planning on using the Moss red lowering springs up front. My original thought was to use Spax adjustable shocks all around with the ride height adjustable ones up front. Lately I've been moving toward using Koni's for their legendary performance even though I'd sacrifice the height adjustment. I do like the idea of saving a few bucks there also that can be used elsewhere in the project. Does anyone have experience with both that could provide info about the difference in handling/ride between the two brands? For the rear spring, I am planning on using the heavy duty spring from British Parts Northwest. I was mostly hoping to prolong the time before it sags horrendously again. Has anyone used this spring that can compare it's stiffness to the stock spring? Will it make the car significantly stiffer? I want the car to handle well, but don't really want to make it overly harsh. I used polyurethane bushings in the suspension on my '64 Chevelle and really liked the way they tightened things up, so I have been planning to put those in the suspension. I am not so sure about the differential mounts though. Seems like that is a location that could really transmit some vibration to the car. Anyone have any input on that one? Any impressions or advice about any of this or suggestions of anything I may be overlooking would be greatly appreciated. I'm trying to make the car handle better while retaining some level of comfort. The car is mostly used just for fun, but I do occasionally use it for commuting (it gets better mileage than anything else I have), so I'm not willing to give up all ride quality for handling prowess. Thanks, Joe Frakes '73 Spit 1500 '68 VW Westfalia Bus ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Where Speed & Service Have Always Mattered @ http://www.ados.net From spitlist at cox.net Fri Aug 31 23:51:19 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2007 22:51:19 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Suspension updates In-Reply-To: <20070901053817.3C6C81879E0@autox.team.net> References: <20070901053817.3C6C81879E0@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <000b01c7ec5c$1e89eb50$2202a8c0@newcomputer> -----Original Message----- I am currently planning on using the Moss red lowering springs up front. My original thought was to use Spax adjustable shocks all around with the ride height adjustable ones up front. Lately I've been moving toward using Koni's for their legendary performance even though I'd sacrifice the height adjustment. I do like the idea of saving a few bucks there also that can be used elsewhere in the project. Does anyone have experience with both that could provide info about the difference in handling/ride between the two brands? +++++++++++++++++++ I tried the SPAX front shocks with adjustable ride height and discovered that compared to their non adjustable counterparts, the only adjustment is higher. I found that ridiculous and sent them back. I think the SPAX are pretty good as a rule but the Konis are probably better although more expensive. ++++++++++++++++++ For the rear spring, I am planning on using the heavy duty spring from British Parts Northwest. I was mostly hoping to prolong the time before it sags horrendously again. Has anyone used this spring that can compare it's stiffness to the stock spring? Will it make the car significantly stiffer? I want the car to handle well, but don't really want to make it overly harsh. ++++++++++++++++++ I can't speak to that because I hate the swing-spring setup and can't see any use in trying to make it better. I was running rotoflex rear before converting the whole thing over to coil-overs and adding heavy leaves to a stock GT6 spring works well. You can replace the swing spring with a heavy fixed one and the car will have much better handling characteristics because of the reduced body roll. I make a camber compensator for the long axle cars if you need to control wheel tuck associated with the early fixed spring cars. ++++++++++++++++++ I used polyurethane bushings in the suspension on my '64 Chevelle and really liked the way they tightened things up, so I have been planning to put those in the suspension. I am not so sure about the differential mounts though. Seems like that is a location that could really transmit some vibration to the car. Anyone have any input on that one? ++++++++++++++++++ Good thing to do! ++++++++++++++++++ Joe C.