<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto">With that much oil loss, a compression test itself would be revealing. The various diagnostic tests that I saw suggested are all good paths to take as well. Although unlikely I would also look at the coolant for signs of oil. But given the sudden occurrence I would expect a broken part, e.g., ring, piston, gasket. If I were doing an engine rebuild, with doing the labor myself, I would expect a cost of 3000 to 4000 in machine work and parts based on my recent experiences with race engines for my MGA. But there are lots of these cars so used engines might be available. <div> <br id="lineBreakAtBeginningOfSignature"><div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div><div dir="ltr"><br><blockquote type="cite">On Nov 20, 2025, at 6:54 AM, Moose <eric@megageek.com> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr"><font size="2" face="sans-serif">I forgot the most important part, engine
has about 154,000 miles.</font>
<br>
<br><font size="2" face="sans-serif">Moose</font>
<br>
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<br><font size="2" face="sans-serif">My SO has a daily driver of a 2000
Honda Accord EX with a 2.3L I4 F OHV engine. She loves this car,
and it's in REALLY great shape. She has had the car for a little over 3
years and she changes the oil every 3000 miles faithfully. The only
problem, about a month or so ago the SR5 and check engine light came on.
I got the codes and it was coming on the evap leak. As I was
looking for into it, it seemed to be a problem to diagnose (need smoke
generator, computers to turn on an off relays) and my time has been split
with lots of other projects. So I made an appointment with my local
trusted mechanic. Note, recently we also got her another car, so
she switches between them and this isn't a daily, but semi-daily driver.</font><font size="3">
<br>
</font><font size="2" face="sans-serif"><br>
Then 2 days ago, the oil light comes on. She checks the oil, the
stick is dry! She puts some oil in (it takes 3 qts to come up to full.)
Then drives home. I check it the next morning. A qt low. So
we take it out for a short ride. No blue smoke under load, no white
smoke. Very faint smell of burning oil. No leaks anywhere.
I did an oil change in March, and she hasn't put 3000 miles on it
yet. </font><font size="3"> <br>
</font><font size="2" face="sans-serif"><br>
For a last hope, I check the intake hoping to find oil in it and maybe
it's just an erg valve. No oil. 8>( So, car is burning oil. I
do some research and find that some Hondas had issues with rings. </font><font size="3"><br>
</font><font size="2" face="sans-serif"><br>
OK, a ring job is more than likely more than the car is worth, but here
is the rub. The car is in great shape, and she LOVES the car. So
I'd be willing to put money into it, even if it was more than it was worth
as she would want to keep this one for a long time. </font><font size="3"><br>
</font><font size="2" face="sans-serif"><br>
My questions are...</font><font size="3"> <br>
</font><font size="2" face="sans-serif"><br>
Is there anything else I can check? (Note, I don't think I'll see
a problem with compression testing as the oil can still 'seal up' the cylinders,
right?) <br>
Could this be related to the codes? (I don't believe so, but I'm not that
well versed on Hondas.)</font><font size="3"> <br>
</font><font size="2" face="sans-serif"><br>
Would a ring job be better than a re-manufactured engine?</font><font size="3">
<br>
</font><font size="2" face="sans-serif"><br>
Has anyone ever put a re-manufactured engine in a Honda? I did one
in my Jeep decades ago and it went well.</font><font size="3"> <br>
</font><font size="2" face="sans-serif"><br>
Thanks.</font><font size="3"> </font><tt><font size="2">_______________________________________________<br>
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</font></tt>
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