<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto">Something just came to mind. The O.P. Stated that he measured a maximum deviation of .002”. How was that measurement taken? It could have been the measurement between one surface of the rotor to a part of the car that is stationary, or the thickness of the rotor. Variation in the thickness of the rotor will produce more variation in the pedal than a warped rotor. <div><br></div><div>As for not turning rotors any more, a local, highly regarded shop says to turn older rotors, especially OEM rather than replacing them with aftermarket rotors because the steel quality of old rotors was better. </div><div><br></div><div>Peace, Pat</div><div><br></div><div><div dir="ltr">Pat Horne <div>We support Habitat for Humanity</div><div><br></div></div><div dir="ltr"><br>On Sep 27, 2025, at 12:24 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:<br><br></div><div dir="ltr"><span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">John,</span>
<br>
<br><span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">A couple of things,
I didn't think you turn a modern rotor. There normally isn't enough 'meet'
to remove them and have them be stout enough. I think that is why
you had a problem with the turned rotors so quickly.</span>
<br>
<br><span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">My other question,
do you have speed bumps that you regularly have to go over? What
about pot holes? I always learned that braking while going over large
bumps or pot holes is a good way to warp a rotor.</span>
<br>
<br><span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">I'm just throwing
these out there. I have no other in sight.</span>
<br><span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif"><br>
Have a great day.</span>
<br>
<br><span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">Moose</span>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br><span style=" font-size:9pt;color:#5f5f5f;font-family:sans-serif">From:
</span><span style=" font-size:9pt;font-family:sans-serif">"john
niolon" <jniolon@att.net></span>
<br><span style=" font-size:9pt;color:#5f5f5f;font-family:sans-serif">To:
</span><span style=" font-size:9pt;font-family:sans-serif">"shop-talk"
<shop-talk@autox.team.net></span>
<br><span style=" font-size:9pt;color:#5f5f5f;font-family:sans-serif">Date:
</span><span style=" font-size:9pt;font-family:sans-serif">09/27/2025
10:59 AM</span>
<br><span style=" font-size:9pt;color:#5f5f5f;font-family:sans-serif">Subject:
</span><span style=" font-size:9pt;font-family:sans-serif">[Shop-talk]
brake shudder</span>
<br><span style=" font-size:9pt;color:#5f5f5f;font-family:sans-serif">Sent
by: </span><span style=" font-size:9pt;font-family:sans-serif">"Shop-talk"
<shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net></span>
<br>
<hr noshade="">
<br>
<br>
<br><span style=" font-size:12pt;font-family:Segoe UI">well I carry tools
in my suburban (shop content)</span>
<br><span style=" font-size:12pt"> </span>
<br><span style=" font-size:12pt;font-family:Segoe UI">Mt problem is a
2008 suburban that has always had a brake shudder (warped rotor) problem
since I've had it... every year it seems it's </span>
<br><span style=" font-size:12pt;font-family:Segoe UI">replace rotor time.</span>
<br><span style=" font-size:12pt"> </span>
<br><span style=" font-size:12pt;font-family:Segoe UI">This year I know
I had two never turned rotors. I put a dial indicator on rotors
and saw no more than .002 runout.. so I decided to just get</span>
<br><span style=" font-size:12pt;font-family:Segoe UI">them turned just
to see what difference it would make. </span>
<br><span style=" font-size:12pt"> </span>
<br><span style=" font-size:12pt;font-family:Segoe UI">Took them to a reputable
shop that turned them and reinstalled. First drive was thru the neighborhood
with no shudder.</span>
<br><span style=" font-size:12pt;font-family:Segoe UI">Second drive was
a ten mile trip on freeway... when exiting freeway I felt the shudder and
it seemed worse than before I turned</span>
<br><span style=" font-size:12pt;font-family:Segoe UI">the rotors...</span>
<br><span style=" font-size:12pt"> </span>
<br><span style=" font-size:12pt;font-family:Segoe UI">I'm going to tear
them back down next week to check everything but wondering if there is
something else I need to check or be</span>
<br><span style=" font-size:12pt;font-family:Segoe UI">concerned about.
I did try stopping with just the parking brake with no shudder so
that eliminates the rear rotors causing the</span>
<br><span style=" font-size:12pt;font-family:Segoe UI">problem. Pads
look nearly new and fit in the caliper nicely... Caliper pistons are retracting
as the should (pads are not bound to rotor when</span>
<br><span style=" font-size:12pt;font-family:Segoe UI">removing wheels.
Lines look ok from the outside. Caliper pins are smooth and well lubricated.</span>
<br><span style=" font-size:12pt"> </span>
<br><span style=" font-size:12pt;font-family:Segoe UI">any ideas/suggestions/true
life experiences/fantastic tales ???</span>
<br><span style=" font-size:12pt;font-family:Segoe UI">john</span><tt><span style=" font-size:10pt">_______________________________________________<br>
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