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On Monday, March 17, 2025 at 01:49:13 PM EDT, Moose wrote:
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<div><br></div><div>><font size="2" face="sans-serif">I have to admit, I'm surprised that everyone seems to be against buying
a new type of tool! 8>)<br></font></div><div><font size="2" face="sans-serif"><br></font></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><font size="2" face="sans-serif">Moose,</font></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><font size="2" face="sans-serif"><br></font></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><font size="2" face="sans-serif">I don't really think it's anything revolutionary, just convient!. Having a bunch of precut piece of heat shrink is handy. I don't see it's worth what they are charging for their kit.</font></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><font size="2" face="sans-serif"><br></font></div>
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<br clear="none"><div><font size="2" face="sans-serif">>Seriously, I currently use these types
of heat shrink tubing. My problems is that I never </font></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><font size="2" face="sans-serif"><span><font style="background-color: inherit;" size="2" face="sans-serif">></font></span>seem to know if
I completely 'sealed' them with heat, and that is only if I remember to
put </font></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><font size="2" face="sans-serif"><span><font style="background-color: inherit;" size="2" face="sans-serif">></font></span>the tubing on the write PRIOR to making the connection. DOH!
Also, the precut stuff </font></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><font size="2" face="sans-serif"><span><font style="background-color: inherit;" size="2" face="sans-serif">></font></span>always seems to be 'just long enough' if that.</font> <br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Exactly. I prefer to have my own collection of different sizes of heat shrink. I buy it from a local shop. No I can control the length.</div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">For my outside Coax connectors, after they are soldered to the coax, I connect the connector to the antenna or a barrel to bring the cable into the house. I then wrap the connector with water proof tape which you can get at Home depot :</div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><div>1. Temflex 2155 - heres an alternative:<br> a. Nashua Stretch & Seal self-fusing silicone tape - $8/10ft - Aisle 09, Bay 014<br><div> b. Scotch/3M 2242 tape - $6/15ft -</div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">2. The above tape is NOT UV safe so I then wrap that tape with <span>Scotch Super 88</span> black electrical tape.</div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">A lot depend on what your trying to make/fix/install. For trying to repair a new car wiring harness is a real pain in the A$$. I've used some of those butt splices with the low temp solder. They seem to work well.</div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">JohnT<br></div></div><div><br></div></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><font size="2" face="sans-serif"><div>John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229<br><br>
48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)<br>
75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III<br>
65 Rambler Classic<br><br>
Morgan: <a href="http://autox.team.net/morgan/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://autox.team.net/morgan/<br><br></a><div><a href="http://autox.team.net/morgan/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank" class="">
</a>Bricklin: <a href="http://www.bricklin.org/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank" class="">http://www.bricklin.org <br></a></div><div><br></div></div><div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div>If you can read this - Thank a teacher!</div>
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!<br><br>
>From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:<br>
e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."<br>
In God We Trust<br>
Liberty - the power of choosing, thinking, and acting for <br>
oneself; freedom from control or restriction <br><br>
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