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<div dir="auto">Jeff beat me to the punch. I also did this on a Triumph. My 1960 TR3. It was fairly simple procedure.</div>
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<div dir="auto">Jack</div>
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<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size:11pt" color="#000000"><b>From:</b> Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, December 24, 2023 10:19:50 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net><br>
<b>Cc:</b> Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Shop-talk] Tractor Bearing Sizes</font>
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<div dir="ltr">1. Maybe? I don't know about your particular tractor, but I have rolled the old main bearings (on a Triumph), just by pushing on the end without the tank and grabbing it on the other when it starts out. New ones just roll in. Requires all
the caps to be loose. If they are sticky, you might get lucky by sliding a roll pin into an oil hole in the crank and turning the crank to push the bearing shell out. Note that this can introduce problems that you didn't use to have. Be governed accordingly.
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<div>2. A good pair of sharp-pointed calipers may reach in the gap well enough that, with a slightly dropped crank due to loose caps, you might get an accurate journal measurement. You could also use Plasti-Gage with new bearings to see if you guessed correctly.
Could be expensive if you guess wrong, though. The shells *should* be a guide, if you can find an accurate dimension for new shells.<br>
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Sounds like loads of fun for the New Year!</div>
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<div dir="ltr" class="x_gmail_attr">On Sun, Dec 24, 2023 at 11:57 AM Bob Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net">bspidell@comcast.net</a>> wrote:<br>
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<blockquote class="x_gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204); padding-left:1ex">
Merry Christmas Shoptalkers!<br>
<br>
I've pulled the head, pan and pistons from my ancient Ford 851 tractor <br>
(it was burning and belching oil and, well, it was time). Head actually <br>
not in bad shape; all but one cyl pass the (liquid) 'leak down' <br>
test--valves hold solvent in upside-down chambers--but I'll get a valve <br>
job anyway. Couple rod bearings worn but not bad, one pretty bad and one <br>
with all babbit(?) gone and copper substrate fragmented (prob would have <br>
seized in a few more hours). I plan to drop the main caps and, <br>
hopefully, extract the upper shells without having to pull the crank. <br>
Cylinder bores smooth but in good shape; I'm thinking ball hone and new <br>
rings.<br>
<br>
My questions:<br>
<br>
1: Can I tap the crank's upper bearing shells out, then replace upper <br>
and lower w/o pulling the crank (not at option)?<br>
<br>
2: Since I can't pull the crank, and it's not worth removing and <br>
grinding/polishing anyway, can I determine what size bearings to <br>
use--rods too--by just measuring the old bearings and getting an idea if <br>
they're over/under and, if so, by how much?<br>
<br>
All answers appreciated.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
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