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Getting the List back in the loop.<br>
<br>
Tractor is a ca. 1953 Ford 851 (6V pos. gnd.). It's got a buck rake
on front, and is not often used but indispensable when I need to
buck brush out of my orchard. I'm doing a "poor man's overhaul;"
e.g. valves, hone, rings and main and rod bearings, no need to pull
the crank as it's a PITA and with new wear items it'll outlast me.<br>
<br>
I've got the rod bearings out; I don't have machinist-grade
measuring tools so if I can figure out what size bearings are in
there--mains TBD--I'll just put new of same size back in. Does this
look like a 0.020" undersize bearing from the inscription? It's
confusing because my ordering options all call them 'oversize,' when
I'd bet money the crank and rod journals have been ground at least
once ('oversize' vs. 'undersize' depends on your perspective, I
suppose, but generally 'undersize' bearings are thicker for journals
that have been ground, no?). <br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/24/2023 11:47 AM, Jack Brooks
wrote:<br>
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<div dir="auto">Jeff beat me to the punch. I also did this on a
Triumph. My 1960 TR3. It was fairly simple procedure.</div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
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<div dir="auto">Jack</div>
<hr style="display:inline-block;width:98%" tabindex="-1">
<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font style="font-size:11pt"
face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000"><b>From:</b>
Shop-talk <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net"><shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net></a> on behalf
of Jeff Scarbrough <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:fishplate@gmail.com"><fishplate@gmail.com></a><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, December 24, 2023 10:19:50 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> Bob Spidell <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"><bspidell@comcast.net></a><br>
<b>Cc:</b> Shop Talk <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net"><shop-talk@autox.team.net></a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Shop-talk] Tractor Bearing Sizes</font>
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<div dir="ltr">1. Maybe? I don't know about your particular
tractor, but I have rolled the old main bearings (on a
Triumph), just by pushing on the end without the tank and
grabbing it on the other when it starts out. New ones just
roll in. Requires all the caps to be loose. If they are
sticky, you might get lucky by sliding a roll pin into an oil
hole in the crank and turning the crank to push the bearing
shell out. Note that this can introduce problems that you
didn't use to have. Be governed accordingly.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>2. A good pair of sharp-pointed calipers may reach in
the gap well enough that, with a slightly dropped crank due
to loose caps, you might get an accurate journal
measurement. You could also use Plasti-Gage with new
bearings to see if you guessed correctly. Could be
expensive if you guess wrong, though. The shells *should*
be a guide, if you can find an accurate dimension for new
shells.<br>
<br>
Sounds like loads of fun for the New Year!</div>
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<br>
<div class="x_gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="x_gmail_attr">On Sun, Dec 24, 2023 at
11:57 AM Bob Spidell <<a
href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net" moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="x_gmail_quote"
style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204); padding-left:1ex">
Merry Christmas Shoptalkers!<br>
<br>
I've pulled the head, pan and pistons from my ancient Ford
851 tractor <br>
(it was burning and belching oil and, well, it was time).
Head actually <br>
not in bad shape; all but one cyl pass the (liquid) 'leak
down' <br>
test--valves hold solvent in upside-down chambers--but I'll
get a valve <br>
job anyway. Couple rod bearings worn but not bad, one pretty
bad and one <br>
with all babbit(?) gone and copper substrate fragmented
(prob would have <br>
seized in a few more hours). I plan to drop the main caps
and, <br>
hopefully, extract the upper shells without having to pull
the crank. <br>
Cylinder bores smooth but in good shape; I'm thinking ball
hone and new <br>
rings.<br>
<br>
My questions:<br>
<br>
1: Can I tap the crank's upper bearing shells out, then
replace upper <br>
and lower w/o pulling the crank (not at option)?<br>
<br>
2: Since I can't pull the crank, and it's not worth removing
and <br>
grinding/polishing anyway, can I determine what size
bearings to <br>
use--rods too--by just measuring the old bearings and
getting an idea if <br>
they're over/under and, if so, by how much?<br>
<br>
All answers appreciated.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
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