<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div dir="ltr"></div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr"><br><blockquote type="cite">On Jan 19, 2023, at 22:33, Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr">
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S</div>
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Question: What glue should I use assuming that I will replace pins/dowels as needed. </div>
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again, sorry for the yadda yadda blah blah</div>
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cheers</div>
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tims</div></div></blockquote><div><br></div>If they’re 100 years old, they were glued with hide glue. Modern wood glues are pva based. Pva glues do not stick to glue. Not hide, nor to pva glue. You need to scrape out as much glue as possible, and then reglue. Use hide glue , either hot, or Franklin’s (titebond) room temperature stuff. If you’re using the room temperature stuff, buy it somewhere that sells a lot of it, it’s got a short shelf life. <div><br></div><div>On gorilla glue: the original gorilla glue is polyurethane. It expands as it cures, that makes it work well for joints with gaps. It’s got no use in non-disposable furniture, joints made with it are impossible to take apart for repair. Hide glue will come apart with heat and maybe moisture. It also sticks to itself, so you don’t get glue failures. That’s why it is still used for instrument building, and for top quality hand built furniture. </div><div><br></div><div>Gorilla make a pva wood glue, which is supposed to be good. I’ve never used it, the various titebond products work well, I can get the ones I want easily. <br><div><br></div><div><br></div></div></body></html>