<html><head><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class="">Thanks, guys. Very helpful. The metal <i class="">looks</i> very good; I just want to be certain nothing is lurking in the pits that might come back to haunt me.<div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">I am curious to know if anyone has ever tried the <span style="caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Helvetica, Arial;" class="">Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer under auto paint. I have used it with good </span><font color="#222222" face="Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial" class=""><span style="caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34);" class="">success in general shop work, but have wondered about its spot use as I work though the car. I am thinking that any use of it would be hit with a second primer later, just for consistency of the primer surface.</span></font></div><div class=""><font color="#222222" face="Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial" class=""><span style="caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34);" class=""><br class=""></span></font></div><div class=""><font color="#222222" face="Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial" class=""><span style="caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34);" class="">Jim</span></font></div><div class=""><font color="#222222" face="Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial" class=""><span style="caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34);" class=""><br class=""></span></font><div><blockquote type="cite" class=""><div class="">On Nov 13, 2022, at 9:17 PM, Doug Braun <<a href="mailto:doug@dougbraun.com" class="">doug@dougbraun.com</a>> wrote:</div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=""><div dir="ltr" class=""><div dir="ltr" class=""><div class="">I used this when doing a lot of bead blasting and sandblasting on my '31 Ford, and it was very helpful:</div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class=""><a href="https://fsccoatings.com/zero-rust-prep-step-powder" class="">https://fsccoatings.com/zero-rust-prep-step-powder</a></div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">You mix a tablespoon of the powder in a spray bottle of water, and spritz some on the freshly-blasted metal.</div><div class="">The nice thing is, it's not corrosive, or bad to get on yourself. It goes a long way - one container</div><div class="">of the stuff was enough to do almost every square inch of the frame body, and running gear.</div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">Doug<br class=""></div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class=""><br class=""></div></div><br class=""><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Nov 13, 2022 at 9:10 PM Pat Horne <<a href="mailto:patintexas@icloud.com" class="">patintexas@icloud.com</a>> wrote:<br class=""></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir="auto" class="">Several years ago I was stripping the frame on my 67.5 Datsun roadster using a pressure washer with a media blaster tip & was really surprised, not only how fast it stripped down to bare metal, but how fast it flash rusted. Within a few minutes of blasting, it rusted. I finally had to blast a minute or so, then dry & phosphate coat it before continuing. The phosphate I used needed to be washed off before priming which added to the process. Wish I could have found some of the phosphate that didn’t need washing but nobody stocked it. <div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">Peace,</div><div class="">Pat<br class=""><br class=""></div></div></blockquote></div></div>
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