<font size=2 face="sans-serif">As someone that lives in a 'turn of 2 centuries'
house (built in the 1700s), I can tell you they just need to bite the bullet
and replace the unit.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">No matter what the cost, house fire,
and/or poison gases are NOTHING to gamble with. I'm a guy that will
hang off a ladder with a running chainsaw, and I wouldn't take a chance
with either of these.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Don't forget, a modern unit will be
FAR more efficient and could pay for itself in short time. But replacing
one or both loved ones is not an option.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">There may also be tax credits or incentive
programs to offset the costs of the upgrades. Have them research
around (but hurry.) Their oil/gas provider, local tax office, internet
searches. They may be surprised at the availability of assistance
for the upgrade.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">As for repairing it, to properly weld
cast iron, you need to slowly preheat and cool down a piece. This
means it would NEED to be removed so it can be placed in an oven. Then
if it wasn't really flat, it could crack on reinstallation.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Frankly, before I tried to weld it,
I would remove it and try to recast a new piece. Watch some videos
on do it yourself cast iron. Not outside of the realm of a DIYer.
Very little specialize equipment required. Maybe you can find
someone local to do it. That way you just 'glue' the pieces together
to make a mold of it and recast it. This isn't a high performance
part, so it should be possible. A little machining afterwards to
the mating surfaces and you are good to go.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">But I would only do that if replacement
was completely unavailable until 6 or more months.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Moose</font>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br><font size=1 color=#5f5f5f face="sans-serif">From:
</font><font size=1 face="sans-serif">Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com></font>
<br><font size=1 color=#5f5f5f face="sans-serif">To:
</font><font size=1 face="sans-serif">Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net></font>
<br><font size=1 color=#5f5f5f face="sans-serif">Date:
</font><font size=1 face="sans-serif">11/08/2021 10:54 AM</font>
<br><font size=1 color=#5f5f5f face="sans-serif">Subject:
</font><font size=1 face="sans-serif">[Shop-talk]
Ancient furnace with cracked manifold</font>
<br><font size=1 color=#5f5f5f face="sans-serif">Sent by:
</font><font size=1 face="sans-serif">"Shop-talk"
<shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net></font>
<br>
<hr noshade>
<br>
<br>
<br><font size=3>My daughter and her boyfriend have bought a turn of the
century house with an ancient coal-fired furnace that was long ago converted
to natural gas. It works fine and they’d like to put off replacing
it for as long as possible while they invest their money in other parts
of the house. However, the furnace has a cast iron exhaust manifold
that is cracked pretty badly and it scares the hell out of me. Following
are some screenshots from a video she sent me, starting with the overall
exhaust.</font>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br><font size=3>You can see the top of the manifold in the lower right.
Here is a side view:</font>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br><font size=3>The orange goop was applied by a furnace tech they hired,
who said he really shouldn’t have touched it at all but did what he could.l.
However, here is a shot just below the goop:</font>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br><font size=3>And, a shot from the other side:</font>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br><font size=3>As you can see - assuming the photos come through - the
manifold is totally shot, although it feels solid and doesn’t appear to
be in danger of falling off. In theory, it could be removed and taken
someplace that does cast iron welding, but I suspect that would be a royal
pain and not guaranteed to succeed. She has a CO2 detector in the
basement, but I will be visiting her next week and want to try to do more.
“More” might be trying to convince them to bite the bullet and
replace the system immediately, but I have also thought about treating
it like an automotive exhaust system and trying to patch it to get them
by for a season or two. What are the group's thoughts on something
like JB Weld High Heat putty (</font><a href="https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8297-HighHeat-Degree/dp/B007PP26RI/ref=pd_bxgy_2/138-6104268-8394138?pd_rd_w=nQ3PU&pf_rd_p=c64372fa-c41c-422e-990d-9e034f73989b&pf_rd_r=2F076DNFFJBZ1G9PK3TY&pd_rd_r=623d1e00-f712-4380-897c-474fe9ee6337&pd_rd_wg=1YSqH&pd_rd_i=B007PP26RI&psc=1"><font size=3 color=blue><u>https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8297-HighHeat-Degree/dp/B007PP26RI/ref=pd_bxgy_2/138-6104268-8394138?pd_rd_w=nQ3PU&pf_rd_p=c64372fa-c41c-422e-990d-9e034f73989b&pf_rd_r=2F076DNFFJBZ1G9PK3TY&pd_rd_r=623d1e00-f712-4380-897c-474fe9ee6337&pd_rd_wg=1YSqH&pd_rd_i=B007PP26RI&psc=1</u></font></a><font size=3>)
and/or their high heat wrap (</font><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N582CBY/ref=emc_b_5_t"><font size=3 color=blue><u>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N582CBY/ref=emc_b_5_t</u></font></a><font size=3>)?</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3>Thanks,</font>
<br><font size=3>Jim (and Sara)</font>
<br>
<br>
<br>
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