<html><head><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=""><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>I don’t know if this heresy, but I’ve been replacing my florescent units with HF 5000 luman LEDs as they go bad. The single tube, $19.95 (on sale), are amazingly bright, nice color temperature and relatively well built. I’ve found that a single HF unit will replace a 2 bulb florescent unit, and HF sells a two tube unit for a few dollars more.<div class=""><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Best,</div><div class=""><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Bob<br class=""><div><br class=""><blockquote type="cite" class=""><div class="">On Feb 6, 2021, at 1:16 PM, Bob Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net" class="">bspidell@comcast.net</a>> wrote:</div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline"><div class="">
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Makes sense. It's been a couple years, and my memory's fuzzy, but
now I remember I had a couple bad ballasts and, since I had to
replace them I got LED-compatible ones and installed LED tubes (T12
IIRC).<br class="">
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LEDs must need <i class="">something</i>, at least according to the ones I'm
familiar--they're used in rectifiers--need DC current (probable at 5
or 12V).<br class="">
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 2/6/2021 9:08 AM, Pat Horne wrote:<br class="">
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Bob, it’s not that LEDs need a special ballast, they usually don’t
need any ballast, but that some of them will work with a
fluorescent ballast & some not. The ones I use take 120-270v
directly to the lamp.
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<div class="">Peace,</div>
<div class="">Pat<br class="">
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<div dir="ltr" class="">Pat Horne
<div class="">We support Habitat for Humanity</div>
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