<div dir="ltr">I have an old (1970's vintage) Craftsman beam type torque wrench. The advantage is that it should never go out of calibration. The downside is one has to be able view the scale straight on. I use it for cylinder heads where I can easily see the scale and want to be sure of the accuracy. I also have a Craftsman clicker (1990's vintage) that is useful for situations where I can't easily see the beam wrench's scale. I carefully store it and use the beam wrench to check its accuracy. <div><br></div><div>I also have a couple of cheap Harbor Freight clickers. Those go in my travelling tool box that I take to the race track. They are accurate (!) and I use them for things like lug nuts where I only want to know that they are approximately torqued (wheels falling off are frowned upon). And if they should get stolen or lost I wouldn't have to eat PB&J for a week or two. </div><div><br></div><div>Eric Russell</div><div>Mebane, NC </div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Thu, Feb 4, 2021 at 12:14 PM Benjamin Zwissler <<a href="mailto:bjzwissler@gmail.com">bjzwissler@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr">I really like the clicker style though it took me 20 years to give up my old beam and needle wrench. I bought two Tekton units and found them to be way out of spec quickly and I really didn't like the micrometer style, twist adjustment. One of my sons worked at a tire store and they used dual beam clickers from Precision Instruments. They are great and priced moderately at about $100 for the 3/8" and $130 for the 1/2". I'm told they make SnapOn branded torque wrenches and they look the same for double the price. <div><br></div><div>Looking into the differences the Precision Instrument wrenches are "dual beam" which means there's one beam attached to the handle and one floating as a reference to create the click. Both are inside the handle and torque selector knob adjusts the amount of deflection required to click. Because its a beam style wrench calibration should not be required. They also don't require you to return to zero to maintain the calibration.</div><div><br></div><div>Anyway, my two cents.</div><div><br></div><div>Ben</div><div><br></div><div><br clear="all"><div><div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr"><div><div dir="ltr"><div><div>Ben Zwissler<br></div><a href="mailto:bjzwissler@gmail.com" target="_blank">bjzwissler@gmail.com</a><br></div><div>812-343-5533</div>Columbus, IN<br></div></div></div></div></div><br></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Thu, Feb 4, 2021 at 10:30 AM Scott Hall <<a href="mailto:scott.hall.personal@gmail.com" target="_blank">scott.hall.personal@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr"><div>I need a new torque wrench. The last time I bought one was 25 years ago--a Snap-On 1/2" dial model.</div><div><br></div><div>I don't expect to ever need to buy another one, and I want to like using it/them.</div><div><br></div><div>What's the current opinion on type and model? I don't think I want beam-type, and I never trusted my clicker 3/8" one, but here's my shot to buy my last torque wrench(es, I should probably get 1/4 - 1/2"). </div><div><br></div><div>Scott</div><div><br></div></div>
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</blockquote></div><br clear="all"><div><br></div>-- <br><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_signature"><div dir="ltr">Eric Russell<div>Mebane, NC</div></div></div>