<div dir="ltr">Howdy,<div><br></div><div>The other day, I finally got around to selling the extra battery powered string trimmer I have, since I switched all my stuff to the red brand.<br><br>Cheapo Black and Decker. Last used probably 5 years ago? Maybe more. It'd just been sitting there with the battery in the charger the whole time.<br></div><div><br></div><div>I clicked the battery into the tool, pulled the trigger, and it spun right up, just like it always had.</div><div><br></div><div>My life is better with less small engines in it.<br><br>Mark</div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Aug 9, 2020 at 5:32 AM Donald H Locker <<a href="mailto:dhlocker@comcast.net">dhlocker@comcast.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><<a href="https://cdn.datamanager.arinet.com/image/MTD/d075d134-a7c8-43a8-95d3-3b44c0191f4a/ExtraLarge" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">https://cdn.datamanager.arinet.com/image/MTD/d075d134-a7c8-43a8-95d3-3b44c0191f4a/ExtraLarge</a>><br>
is an exploded parts diagram of the engine. Ignition module (includes<br>
the coil) is #24; flywheel is #23.<br>
<br>
More information is through<br>
<<a href="https://www.troybilt.com/en_US/service-and-parts#diagrams" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">https://www.troybilt.com/en_US/service-and-parts#diagrams</a>><br>
and put in your model number (I picked the first choice for the TB4BP<br>
because I don't know your exact model number) and poke around for the<br>
engine parts.<br>
<br>
Small engines are just like large engines, but smaller :-). They tend to<br>
be more finicky because there is only one cylinder and if it gets<br>
flakey, there is no one else to take up the slack.<br>
<br>
HTH,<br>
Donald.<br>
--<br>
*Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue<br>
() no proprietary attachments; no html mail<br>
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<br>
On 2020-08-08 9:27 p.m., Scott Hall wrote:<br>
> Update for those of you sadistic-enough to keep reading: the intake<br>
> valve was...loose? Open? The gap was too wide.<br>
> <br>
> The spec is .003 to .006 intake and exhaust - my smallest feeler is<br>
> .006. I adjusted it to be tight on .006. <br>
> <br>
> The hard start is totally fixed. Starts great now.<br>
> <br>
> Still won't accelerate. Opening the throttle bogs it and it'll die if<br>
> you don't let off. Curing the starting issue seems to have thrown the<br>
> bogging issue into starker relief.<br>
> <br>
> Exhaust can is clear. Gas is new. Air filter is clean and freshly oiled<br>
> and removing it entirely changes nothing.<br>
> <br>
> I am unfamiliar with valves making something not run--my experience is<br>
> either on Ford V-8s or a Triumph 1147 I-4, or Honda or Kawasaki SS<br>
> motorcycle engines, none of which ever had issues with the valves. This<br>
> thing's valves are literally just adjusted with a 5/16" nut--there's no<br>
> locking nut. Is it possible that making the intake or exhaust valve<br>
> tighter or looser could cause something like this? Like should I shoot<br>
> for one end of the spec of another?<br>
> <br>
> Last thing left would be the coil like Tom suggested. There's no mention<br>
> of it in the owners manual and I don't see it in a parts search so far,<br>
> but I started with Amazon. <br>
> <br>
> Seriously. I have built--from rusty blocks--a Ford 289 and 390. A<br>
> Triumph 1147 that came in several Tupperware bins. More rebuilds of<br>
> CBR600 and ZX750 engines than I like to think about.<br>
> <br>
> A leaf blower engine is threatening to best me. I want to back over it<br>
> with the truck just to make it disappear. I think I'm looking for moral<br>
> support here.<br>
> <br>
> Worn cylinder or piston? Bad valve entirely? I could dig out a<br>
> compression tester, but there's no spec for it in the manual anyway. I'm<br>
> kinda at a loss here.<br>
> <br>
> On Thu, Aug 6, 2020 at 7:40 PM Tom Coradeschi <<a href="mailto:tjcora@icloud.com" target="_blank">tjcora@icloud.com</a><br>
> <mailto:<a href="mailto:tjcora@icloud.com" target="_blank">tjcora@icloud.com</a>>> wrote:<br>
> <br>
> I had a leaf blower stop running a few years back due to a bad<br>
> ignition coil. Have you verified you’ve got spark? I don’t see that<br>
> specifically mentioned (yes, you did mention the spark plug)<br>
> <br>
> —<br>
> Tom Coradeschi<br>
> <a href="mailto:tjcora@icloud.com" target="_blank">tjcora@icloud.com</a> <mailto:<a href="mailto:tjcora@icloud.com" target="_blank">tjcora@icloud.com</a>><br>
> <br>
> <br>
> > On 05 Aug 2020, at 5:09 PM, Scott Hall<br>
> <<a href="mailto:scott.hall.personal@gmail.com" target="_blank">scott.hall.personal@gmail.com</a><br>
> <mailto:<a href="mailto:scott.hall.personal@gmail.com" target="_blank">scott.hall.personal@gmail.com</a>>> wrote:<br>
> ><br>
> > The carb is getting fuel. I can see it in the fuel lines and it<br>
> pumps using the primer bulb.<br>
> ><br>
> > The symptoms are identical with the old and new carb. I can't see<br>
> the end of the fuel line but the only remaining fuel issue could be<br>
> that the new fuel filter (a pumice stone-like thing on the end of<br>
> the fuel line) could be restrictive. Working against that theory is<br>
> that it did the same thing with the old fuel filter.<br>
> ><br>
> > I don't think the problem is the fuel system. The problem<br>
> is...what's left? I swapped the spark plug just to do it.<br>
> ><br>
> > It's a four-cycle engine. Might the valves (like the intake and<br>
> exhaust valves in the head) come out of adjustment? This condition<br>
> has been developing over more than a year...perhaps the valves are<br>
> slowly coming out of adjustment?<br>
> ><br>
> > I don't know what conditions un-adjusted valves cause. I can't<br>
> think of what else it could be.<br>
> ><br>
> > On Wed, Aug 5, 2020 at 3:23 PM <<a href="mailto:alfuller194@gmail.com" target="_blank">alfuller194@gmail.com</a><br>
> <mailto:<a href="mailto:alfuller194@gmail.com" target="_blank">alfuller194@gmail.com</a>>> wrote:<br>
> > Can you confirm whether it is actually getting fuel to the carb?<br>
> Try starting it with ether/carb cleaner/gasoline directly to the carb?<br>
> ><br>
> > <br>
> ><br>
> > ----------------<br>
> ><br>
> > All the best,<br>
> ><br>
> > <br>
> ><br>
> > Al Fuller<br>
> ><br>
> > <br>
> ><br>
> > From: Shop-talk <<a href="mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net" target="_blank">shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net</a><br>
> <mailto:<a href="mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net" target="_blank">shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net</a>>> On Behalf Of Scott Hall<br>
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 5, 2020 4:06 PM<br>
> > To: <a href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target="_blank">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a> <mailto:<a href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target="_blank">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>><br>
> > Subject: [Shop-talk] M*th%&$#c<ing small engines d*mn again<br>
> ><br>
> > <br>
> ><br>
> > Troy Bilt four-stroke backpack leaf blower.<br>
> ><br>
> > <br>
> ><br>
> > Replaced the carb and plug.<br>
> ><br>
> > <br>
> ><br>
> > No change in symptoms: hard start, choke useless, engine bogs on<br>
> application of throttle.<br>
> ><br>
> > <br>
> ><br>
> > That sounds like fuel/air to me. That's the carb. The carb and<br>
> plug are brand new. The old carb and plug look fine and it's doing<br>
> the same thing. The carb isn't the problem.<br>
> ><br>
> > <br>
> ><br>
> > I am literally out of ideas. Any idea what to look at next before<br>
> I just toss it?<br>
> ><br>
> > <br>
> ><br>
> > Thanks and (*&^*&%&#()_#@&*$&#^&^%.<br>
> ><br>
> > <br>
> ><br>
> > Scott<br>
> ><br>
> > _______________________________________________<br>
> ><br>
> > <a href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target="_blank">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a> <mailto:<a href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target="_blank">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>><br>
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</blockquote></div>