<div dir="ltr">I just did something similar: had a door that was too wide, so I used a router to make the hinge pockets 1/4" deeper then ran the door through my table saw and sliced a bit less than 3/16" of the hinge side and about 1/16" off the latch side.<div><br></div><div>I think you can do something similar. Look up "router jig to flatten wood" and make a sled that is roughly 31" long and as wide as your (possibly new) router base. Woodworkers use this kind of rig for flattening live edge slabs and the like.</div><div><br></div><div>Here's a good video that explains it and shows how to make it using some plywood and simple rails: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0SDvKHcL5M">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0SDvKHcL5M</a></div><div><br></div><div>Basically, you get a nice wide straight bit and set the jig on the door, then make passes cutting off 1/8" or less at a time. Make a pass, move the jig less than the diameter of the bit, make another pass, etc.</div><div><br></div><div>You might not even need to finish the final surface with a plane, but here's a chance to get a nice jack plane, like the Stanley No. 62 (Orange big box has them for ~$100).</div><div><br></div><div>I've done this, for end grain cutting boards, where I used a 1x2" aluminum rectangle tube for the rails,</div><div><br clear="all"><div><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_signature" data-smartmail="gmail_signature">--<br>__<br>Miq Millman <a href="mailto:miq@bigllama.com" target="_blank">miq@bigllama.com</a><br>Tualatin, OR Big Llama Productions<br></div></div><br></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Dec 22, 2019 at 6:26 AM Jim Stone via Shop-talk <<a href="mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div style="overflow-wrap: break-word;"><div>I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have come up with a problem I would like the group’s help with. I need to put up a pair of 8’ x 30" barn doors, one of which will slide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet. So, not exactly a pocket door, but it needs to fit into a pocket. When we designed/installed the kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 3/8” - 1 1/2” door, which I planned to make out of tongue and groove boards or possibly shiplap. However, my wife has lately decided that she doesn’t like the look of the board door and wants to try something different. I wanted to install something temporary while she shops and decides and we went to Habitat for Humanity’s ReStore yesterday to see if they had anything that would cheaply do the trick, at least for the holidays. To our surprise, they had a pair of new, really nice, 8x30 shaker style doors for $50 each that would look really good in the house. They are solid wood, I think poplar, and the only problem is that they are 1 3/4” thick. I bought them anyway, figuring I could always donate them back if there wasn’t a good way to make them work. </div><div><br></div><div>There is a possibility that I might be able to make the doors work by tweaking the barn door hardware, as the opening is about 1 5/8”. I will try that, but doubt the wall tolerances are that precise. It it doesn’t work, my only option - besides re-donating the doors - is to try to narrow the doors a bit. This <i>should</i> be possible, since the stiles and rails are 4” and 8”, respectively, so I am not talking about narrowing the entire width of the door. </div><div>(For what it is worth, I should add here that while the doors are currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the match the cabinets and door opening and will be cutting them down to about 84” x 29”. </div><div><br></div><div>I currently have a good bench top planer that I can’t see anyway to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that might work. But, of course, I would be happy to buy a new one or another tool that would do the job. We are probably looking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8’ doors that make my wife happy, so there is lots of room in the budget for a new tool. So, what does the group think? Can I safely take about 1/8” off each face of these doors. Is an electric hand planer my best option, or is there another way? They will be painted in the end, so I can fill in any random gouges, but they do have to be smooth and even.</div><div><br></div><div>As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to all!</div><div><br></div><div>Jim</div></div>_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target="_blank">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>
Donate: <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Suggested annual donation $12.96<br>
Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a href="http://autox.team.net/archive" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/miq@bigllama.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/miq@bigllama.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>