<html><head><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class="">Thanks guys. The sled looks pretty easy to make and would certainly do the trick. One other suggestion gave me another idea, which would be to use my bench planer to ‘mill’ a piece of wood to perfectly fill the gap between the stile and the panel, in effect giving me a larger flat surface. I would think I could then use a router with a surfacing bit and work from the outside in, removing a bit of material as I go. The spacer would give me a flat, even surface all the way to the inside. I would think that would work fine, without the need to build a sled.<div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">However, it may all be academic now. I studied the doors more carefully a few hours ago and realized that they are not solid wood, but MDF with about an 1/8” veneer on the front and an inch or so of poplar on the sides. No wonder they are so heavy. The MDF and the poplar are about the same color and I was looking at the lock hole, where the hole saw marks gave the appearance of grain. Probably wishful thinking on my part. I might be able to take a tiny bit off of each - and it is possible a tiny bit might be enough - but imagine that cutting all the way though the veneer won’t leave me with an acceptable surface for paint. I might be wrong on that, but hopefully I will be successful modifying the track and be able to make it work that way. I’ll measure extra carefully! I won’t have access to a milling machine until after the holidays, so this project will have to stay dormant for a week or so. Plenty to keep me busy in the meantime!</div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">Jim<br class=""><div><br class=""><blockquote type="cite" class=""><div class="">On Dec 22, 2019, at 3:05 PM, Brian Kemp <<a href="mailto:bk13@earthlink.net" class="">bk13@earthlink.net</a>> wrote:</div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline"><div class="">
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I second the router guide shown in the video if you don't have a
local shop with a door sized industrial sander.<br class="">
<br class="">
Brian<br class="">
<br class="">
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/22/2019 10:08 AM, Miq Millman via
Shop-talk wrote:<br class="">
</div>
<blockquote type="cite" cite="mid:CALUbS3E6Z1bQErv0sihka3z5gL_at6ghfoqfq38GwKPQEP4H=w@mail.gmail.com" class="">
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<div dir="ltr" class="">I just did something similar: had a door that was
too wide, so I used a router to make the hinge pockets 1/4"
deeper then ran the door through my table saw and sliced a bit
less than 3/16" of the hinge side and about 1/16" off the latch
side.
<div class=""><br class="">
</div>
<div class="">I think you can do something similar. Look up "router jig
to flatten wood" and make a sled that is roughly 31" long and
as wide as your (possibly new) router base. Woodworkers use
this kind of rig for flattening live edge slabs and the like.</div>
<div class=""><br class="">
</div>
<div class="">Here's a good video that explains it and shows how to make
it using some plywood and simple rails: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0SDvKHcL5M" moz-do-not-send="true" class="">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0SDvKHcL5M</a></div>
<div class=""><br class="">
</div>
<div class="">Basically, you get a nice wide straight bit and set the jig
on the door, then make passes cutting off 1/8" or less at a
time. Make a pass, move the jig less than the diameter of the
bit, make another pass, etc.</div>
<div class=""><br class="">
</div>
<div class="">You might not even need to finish the final surface with a
plane, but here's a chance to get a nice jack plane, like the
Stanley No. 62 (Orange big box has them for ~$100).</div>
<div class=""><br class="">
</div>
<div class="">I've done this, for end grain cutting boards, where I used
a 1x2" aluminum rectangle tube for the rails,</div>
<div class=""><br clear="all" class="">
<div class="">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_signature" data-smartmail="gmail_signature">--<br class="">
__<br class="">
Miq Millman <a href="mailto:miq@bigllama.com" target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true" class="">miq@bigllama.com</a><br class="">
Tualatin, OR Big Llama Productions<br class="">
</div>
</div>
<br class="">
</div>
</div>
<br class="">
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Dec 22, 2019 at 6:26
AM Jim Stone via Shop-talk <<a href="mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net" moz-do-not-send="true" class="">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:<br class="">
</div>
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0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
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<div class="">I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled
house and have come up with a problem I would like the
group’s help with. I need to put up a pair of 8’ x 30"
barn doors, one of which will slide in next to a tall
kitchen cabinet. So, not exactly a pocket door, but it
needs to fit into a pocket. When we designed/installed
the kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 3/8”
- 1 1/2” door, which I planned to make out of tongue and
groove boards or possibly shiplap. However, my wife has
lately decided that she doesn’t like the look of the board
door and wants to try something different. I wanted to
install something temporary while she shops and decides
and we went to Habitat for Humanity’s ReStore yesterday to
see if they had anything that would cheaply do the trick,
at least for the holidays. To our surprise, they had a
pair of new, really nice, 8x30 shaker style doors for $50
each that would look really good in the house. They are
solid wood, I think poplar, and the only problem is that
they are 1 3/4” thick. I bought them anyway, figuring I
could always donate them back if there wasn’t a good way
to make them work. </div>
<div class=""><br class="">
</div>
<div class="">There is a possibility that I might be able to make the
doors work by tweaking the barn door hardware, as the
opening is about 1 5/8”. I will try that, but doubt the
wall tolerances are that precise. It it doesn’t work, my
only option - besides re-donating the doors - is to try to
narrow the doors a bit. This <i class="">should</i> be possible,
since the stiles and rails are 4” and 8”, respectively, so
I am not talking about narrowing the entire width of the
door. </div>
<div class="">(For what it is worth, I should add here that while the
doors are currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to
make the match the cabinets and door opening and will be
cutting them down to about 84” x 29”. </div>
<div class=""><br class="">
</div>
<div class="">I currently have a good bench top planer that I can’t
see anyway to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that might
work. But, of course, I would be happy to buy a new one
or another tool that would do the job. We are probably
looking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8’ doors that
make my wife happy, so there is lots of room in the budget
for a new tool. So, what does the group think? Can I
safely take about 1/8” off each face of these doors. Is
an electric hand planer my best option, or is there
another way? They will be painted in the end, so I can
fill in any random gouges, but they do have to be smooth
and even.</div>
<div class=""><br class="">
</div>
<div class="">As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to
all!</div>
<div class=""><br class="">
</div>
<div class="">Jim</div>
</div>
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