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<p>Thanks. Noted for future reference. <br>
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<p><br>
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<p>I had to remove the pan on my Austin-Healey because I cracked it,
right after an engine overhaul. The builder had used black 'Right
Stuff' to seal it instead of a gasket. Well, he might as well
have used epoxy, that 'stuff' is notoriously hard to remove
(there's a photo on the web somewhere of someone dangling a SBC
from the manifold with bolts removed and just the sealant holding
it together). I had to 'saw' through the stuff with a serrated
kitchen knife; thought I would never get it off and made my elbow
sore for months. Of course, there was was residue of the sealant
on the block; the 3M stuff softened and removed it.</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Bob<br>
</p>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 9/16/2017 7:32 AM, Tim . wrote:<br>
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<p>Yes, it was not a true apples to apples comparison. Because
kerosene is so much cheaper than the 3M stuff, it would not
have been cost effective to soak the rags in the 3M product.
But, I will add, while the 3M didn't immediately do anything,
the kerosene did start to soften the hardened adhesive almost
immediately, at least a little. When I noticed this, I decided
to do the rag soak. </p>
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<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font style="font-size:11pt"
face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000"><b>From:</b>
Shop-talk <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net"><shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net></a> on
behalf of Bob Spidell <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"><bspidell@comcast.net></a><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Friday, September 15, 2017 12:50 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Shop-talk] removing OLD duct tape
adhesive from a windscreen</font>
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<p>Did you 'cover the surface in rags' then soaked with the
3M product? If not, then it's not an 'apples to apples'
comparison. Soaking rags, so the solvent doesn't
evaporate before getting a chance to work, is a good
idea. I think a lot of solvents--the 3M product
included--would work better with this technique. What may
work even better would be to apply the solvent, then put
'saran' wrap over it to prevent evaporation.<br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>I do apologize for the link to the 3M aerosol; 3M comes
in pint cans but I posted the link to the aerosol because
it was at WalMart, which I felt might be a convenient
place to buy it (I only saw it on the shelf at auto parts
stores). If you didn't use the whole can keep it around;
it does work well on a lot of glues; esp. the 3M
upholstery adhesive--aka 'yellow snot'--which is often
used on upholstery and seals. It also works well on
Weldwood 'Landau' adhesive, which appears, and smells,
very similar to the yellow snot.<br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Bob<br>
</p>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 9/14/2017 3:21 PM, Tim .
wrote:<br>
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<p><span title="" class="">Thanks</span> for the replies
all. The 3M stuff didn't touch it. $20 waste of
money. </p>
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</p>
<p>The winner was covering the surface in rags and
soaking them with kerosene for a half hour or so. I
then sprayed MarineClean on small areas at a time,
scrubbed with rag and paper towel and the crap slowly
came off. Two hours later I am about 98% done. </p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>tim</p>
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