From jniolon at att.net  Mon Oct 19 11:09:24 2026
From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon)
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2026 12:09:24 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] flourescent to led changeover
References: <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY.ref@johns-desktop>
Message-ID: <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY@johns-desktop>

Hi all
 
My 30 year old 
8' t-12 (single pin) garage fixtures are slowly dying...(4 total double tube)
the old t-12s are hard to find and expensive (16-20 bucks a tube)
 
Want to change to led... lots of options  - 8' 
led tubes are expensive too ... 
 
I was gifted a box of 20 
4' bi-pin bulbs that work with a ballast...(heat sink)
 
option 1 
if I use these I'd 
have to change all the tombstones to bi-pin and figure out the
shunted vs non shunted type...  AND find the 8' to 4' fixture conversion kits 
(adding the middle tombstones
 
option 2
8' type a led single pin tubes (about the same price as 8' fluorescent) and use 
a ballast
not great reviews when shipped...
 
option 3
 
replace all the crap with the internet specials  linkable stick lights and hope 
they work
 
comments on options ????
 
questions... when using the ballast type plug and plays... aren't I using more electricity using the ballast 
and heating it up... is there any savings here ???
 
 
please educate the old dummy on best (least expensive) options
 
 
 
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From ejrussell61 at gmail.com  Mon Oct 19 11:24:08 2026
From: ejrussell61 at gmail.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2026 13:24:08 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] flourescent to led changeover
In-Reply-To: <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY@johns-desktop>
References: <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY.ref@johns-desktop>
 <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY@johns-desktop>
Message-ID: <CAP7dBXC6Ro9VuHY1LEsyeEF2q=8Kf-VyhGfkXgOpHbQsLVr=UQ@mail.gmail.com>

I have changed all the 4' fluorescents in our garage to the eLcheapo (tm)
LED linkable sticks. After 5+ years I've had one fail out of 12. I bought a
few extras when they went on sale. Also (if it matters) no problems with
them working in cold weather. (OK, cold in North Carolina may not be cold
elsewhere but the fluorescents I had would often not work when it was
cold.)

EjR

On Mon, Oct 19, 2026 at 1:17?PM john niolon <jniolon at att.net> wrote:

> Hi all
>
> My 30 year old 8' t-12 (single pin) garage fixtures are slowly dying...(4
> total double tube)
> the old t-12s are hard to find and expensive (16-20 bucks a tube)
>
> Want to change to led... lots of options  - 8' led tubes are expensive too
> ...
>
> I was gifted a box of 20 4' bi-pin bulbs that work with a ballast...(heat
> sink)
>
> option 1
> if I use these I'd have to change all the tombstones to bi-pin and figure
> out the
> shunted vs non shunted type...  AND find the 8' to 4' fixture conversion
> kits (adding the middle tombstones
>
> option 2
> 8' type a led single pin tubes (about the same price as 8' fluorescent)
> and use a ballast
> not great reviews when shipped...
>
> option 3
>
> replace all the crap with the internet specials  linkable stick lights and
> hope they work
>
> comments on options ????
>
> questions... when using the ballast type plug and plays... aren't I using
> more electricity using the ballast
> and heating it up... is there any savings here ???
>
>
> please educate the old dummy on best (least expensive) options
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ejrussell61 at gmail.com
>
>
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From jamesf at groupwbench.org  Mon Oct 19 11:37:56 2026
From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin)
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2026 13:37:56 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] flourescent to led changeover
In-Reply-To: <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY@johns-desktop>
References: <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY.ref@johns-desktop>
 <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY@johns-desktop>
Message-ID: <97147E8C-F24F-4C23-9CD4-2CD896F69244@groupwbench.org>

Just put in some 4' integrated LEDs and get on with life. All other options for non-commercial use are a kludge and a time sink. I used these in the basement and they're working fine:

 https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-4-ft-Light-LED-Strip-Shop-Light/5000858987

jim

> On Oct 19, 2026, at 1:09 PM, john niolon <jniolon at att.net> wrote:
> 
> Hi all
>  
> My 30 year old 8' t-12 (single pin) garage fixtures are slowly dying...(4 total double tube)
> the old t-12s are hard to find and expensive (16-20 bucks a tube)
>  
> Want to change to led... lots of options  - 8' led tubes are expensive too ...
>  
> I was gifted a box of 20 4' bi-pin bulbs that work with a ballast...(heat sink)
>  
> option 1
> if I use these I'd have to change all the tombstones to bi-pin and figure out the
> shunted vs non shunted type...  AND find the 8' to 4' fixture conversion kits (adding the middle tombstones
>  
> option 2
> 8' type a led single pin tubes (about the same price as 8' fluorescent) and use a ballast
> not great reviews when shipped...
>  
> option 3
>  
> replace all the crap with the internet specials  linkable stick lights and hope they work
>  
> comments on options ????
>  
> questions... when using the ballast type plug and plays... aren't I using more electricity using the ballast
> and heating it up... is there any savings here ???
>  
>  
> please educate the old dummy on best (least expensive) options
>  
>  
>  
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org
> 

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From jbach at swiftrecruiters.com  Mon Oct 19 12:00:43 2026
From: jbach at swiftrecruiters.com (John Bach)
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2026 14:00:43 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] flourescent to led changeover
In-Reply-To: <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY@johns-desktop>
References: <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY.ref@johns-desktop>
 <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY@johns-desktop>
Message-ID: <ed643095-5d31-4d1d-9ce4-fe68d26ffe1f@swiftrecruiters.com>

My garage has 12 4 foot 2 tube fixtures. about 5 years ago I dumped all 
the fluorescent bulbs and ballasts and went to led. Tombstones were fast 
and easy to change. Only need to do 1 end. Rewiring took 5 minutes per 
fixture. I used all 5000k daylight bulbs. Tremendous difference. I now 
have light in corners that were just shadows. I am in NW Ohio where it 
gets very cold. I put some in my shed and trailer with no heat and they 
come on immediately. I don't know for you if 4 foot or 8 foot will be 
cheaper but I do know I would do it again. Actually option 1 sounds like 
the way to go if 1 8 foot ballast will light 2 4 foot bulbs. I don't 
know that answer. If you need to buy more ballasts that could be bad. I 
used all no-ballast bulbs. Good luck.

On 10/19/2026 1:09 PM, john niolon wrote:
> Hi all
> My 30 year old 8' t-12 (single pin)?garage fixtures are slowly 
> dying...(4 total double tube)
> the old t-12s are hard to find and expensive (16-20 bucks a tube)
> Want to change to led... lots of options? - 8' led tubes are expensive 
> too ...
> I was gifted a box of 20 4' bi-pin bulbs that work with a 
> ballast...(heat sink)
> option 1
> if I use these I'd have to change all the tombstones to bi-pin and 
> figure out the
> shunted vs non shunted type...? AND find the 8' to 4' fixture 
> conversion kits (adding the middle tombstones
> option 2
> 8' type a led single pin tubes (about the same price as 8' 
> fluorescent) and use a ballast
> not great reviews when shipped...
> option 3
> replace all the crap with the internet specials? linkable stick lights 
> and hope they work
> comments on options ????
> questions... when using the ballast type plug and plays... aren't I 
> using more electricity using the ballast
> and heating it up... is there any savings here ???
> please educate the old dummy on best (least expensive) options
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jbach at swiftrecruiters.com
>
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From doug at dougbraun.com  Mon Oct 19 12:43:53 2026
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2026 14:43:53 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] flourescent to led changeover
In-Reply-To: <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY@johns-desktop>
References: <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY.ref@johns-desktop>
 <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY@johns-desktop>
Message-ID: <CAOtbU9UVBqEJ87vJLL6_v-3273mSOv+_bSRpYG6QcGGm8DSCMw@mail.gmail.com>

I bought these at Lowe's and I am quite happy with them:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Ultra-Bright-LED-Direct-Wire-32-Watt-EQ-T8-Daylight-Medium-Bi-pin-g13-LED-Light-Bulb-2-Pack/5013821001
They are super bright - at least twice as bright as the old fluorescent
bulbs I was using.  They are "direct wire", so I had to tear out the
ballasts, but that was easy to do.

They also make a version that is 96" long with single-pin bases:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Ultra-Bright-Direct-Wire-250-Watt-EQ-T8-Daylight-Single-Pin-T8-LED-Light-Bulb-2-Pack/5013822219

Doug

On Mon, Oct 19, 2026 at 1:24?PM john niolon <jniolon at att.net> wrote:

> Hi all
>
> My 30 year old 8' t-12 (single pin) garage fixtures are slowly dying...(4
> total double tube)
> the old t-12s are hard to find and expensive (16-20 bucks a tube)
>
> Want to change to led... lots of options  - 8' led tubes are expensive too
> ...
>
>
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From dirtbeard at gmail.com  Mon Oct 19 12:47:17 2026
From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (Douglas Shook)
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2026 11:47:17 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] flourescent to led changeover
In-Reply-To: <97147E8C-F24F-4C23-9CD4-2CD896F69244@groupwbench.org>
References: <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY.ref@johns-desktop>
 <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY@johns-desktop>
 <97147E8C-F24F-4C23-9CD4-2CD896F69244@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <CAG1pxga74yL-E2LwX+bj8BRonfYcuL84Ystp9QpmiLtx5HAvHQ@mail.gmail.com>

I replaced my 8' single pin fluorescents with these non-ballast single pin
LEDs about four years ago, no problems, terrific light, it was a very good
decision for me:
JESLED T8/T10/T12 8FT LED Tube Light Bulbs, 50W 6000LM, 5000K Daylight
White, 8 Foot Single Pin FA8 LED Fluorescent Replacement for Shops Garage
Light Fixtures, ETL Listed, Remove Ballast (4-Pack) - Amazon.com
<https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074MC1FW3?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_12&th=1>

On Mon, Oct 19, 2026 at 10:59?AM Jim Franklin <jamesf at groupwbench.org>
wrote:

> Just put in some 4' integrated LEDs and get on with life. All other
> options for non-commercial use are a kludge and a time sink. I used these
> in the basement and they're working fine:
>
>
> https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-4-ft-Light-LED-Strip-Shop-Light/5000858987
>
> jim
>
> On Oct 19, 2026, at 1:09 PM, john niolon <jniolon at att.net> wrote:
>
> Hi all
>
> My 30 year old 8' t-12 (single pin) garage fixtures are slowly dying...(4
> total double tube)
> the old t-12s are hard to find and expensive (16-20 bucks a tube)
>
> Want to change to led... lots of options  - 8' led tubes are expensive too
> ...
>
> I was gifted a box of 20 4' bi-pin bulbs that work with a ballast...(heat
> sink)
>
> option 1
> if I use these I'd have to change all the tombstones to bi-pin and figure
> out the
> shunted vs non shunted type...  AND find the 8' to 4' fixture conversion
> kits (adding the middle tombstones
>
> option 2
> 8' type a led single pin tubes (about the same price as 8' fluorescent)
> and use a ballast
> not great reviews when shipped...
>
> option 3
>
> replace all the crap with the internet specials  linkable stick lights and
> hope they work
>
> comments on options ????
>
> questions... when using the ballast type plug and plays... aren't I using
> more electricity using the ballast
> and heating it up... is there any savings here ???
>
>
> please educate the old dummy on best (least expensive) options
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com
>
>
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From maynerdfamily at msn.com  Mon Oct 19 13:41:35 2026
From: maynerdfamily at msn.com (Brian and Wendy Warrick)
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2026 19:41:35 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] flourescent to led changeover
In-Reply-To: <CAOtbU9UVBqEJ87vJLL6_v-3273mSOv+_bSRpYG6QcGGm8DSCMw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY.ref@johns-desktop>
 <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY@johns-desktop>
 <CAOtbU9UVBqEJ87vJLL6_v-3273mSOv+_bSRpYG6QcGGm8DSCMw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SA1PR84MB3895F72A0CE451D68347D62FBB982@SA1PR84MB3895.NAMPRD84.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>

This is what I did as well. I had the 8 ft fixtures with built in reflectors, so I used the 8 foot single pin w/o ballast conversion tubes. Easy to remove the ballast and it has recycle value too! About the same cost as a new 8 foot LED fixture. I have been doing mine as the ballast die, but I will soon run out of fluorescent tubes and will convert the rest as I run out of tubes.

Brian

________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Doug Braun <doug at dougbraun.com>
Sent: Monday, October 19, 2026 12:43 PM
To: john niolon <jniolon at att.net>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] flourescent to led changeover


I bought these at Lowe's and I am quite happy with them: https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Ultra-Bright-LED-Direct-Wire-32-Watt-EQ-T8-Daylight-Medium-Bi-pin-g13-LED-Light-Bulb-2-Pack/5013821001
They are super bright - at least twice as bright as the old fluorescent bulbs I was using.  They are "direct wire", so I had to tear out the ballasts, but that was easy to do.

They also make a version that is 96" long with single-pin bases: https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Ultra-Bright-Direct-Wire-250-Watt-EQ-T8-Daylight-Single-Pin-T8-LED-Light-Bulb-2-Pack/5013822219

Doug

On Mon, Oct 19, 2026 at 1:24?PM john niolon <jniolon at att.net<mailto:jniolon at att.net>> wrote:
Hi all

My 30 year old 8' t-12 (single pin) garage fixtures are slowly dying...(4 total double tube)
the old t-12s are hard to find and expensive (16-20 bucks a tube)

Want to change to led... lots of options  - 8' led tubes are expensive too ...

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From jniolon at att.net  Mon Oct 19 13:59:36 2026
From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon)
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2026 14:59:36 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] flourescent to led changeover
In-Reply-To: <CAP7dBXC6Ro9VuHY1LEsyeEF2q=8Kf-VyhGfkXgOpHbQsLVr=UQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY.ref@johns-desktop>
 <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY@johns-desktop>
 <CAP7dBXC6Ro9VuHY1LEsyeEF2q=8Kf-VyhGfkXgOpHbQsLVr=UQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1UnKbS4RGb.N7b2GQM6ONN@johns-desktop>

after considering all the options and work involved and cost... 
I'm just gonna scrap what I got and I've order a 10 pacl
of the stick light linking ones and install those... 6 will do what I need so 
I'll have 4 spares and will probably get more light
than the flor tubes (especially since 4 bulbs are burned out now) :-)  
 
thanks for all the input
 
john
 
----- Original Message -----
From: Eric Russell <ejrussell61 at gmail.com>
To: john niolon <jniolon at att.net>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: 10/19/2026 12:24:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] flourescent to led changeover



I have changed all the 4' 
fluorescents in our garage to the eLcheapo (tm) LED linkable sticks. After 5+ 
years 
I've had one fail out of 12. I bought a few extras when they went on sale. Also (if it matters) no problems with them working in cold weather. (OK, cold in North Carolina may not be cold elsewhere but the fluorescents I had would often not work when it was cold.) 


EjR 


On Mon, Oct 19, 2026 at 1:17?PM john niolon <jniolon at att.net> wrote:

Hi all
 
My 30 year old 8' 
t-12 (single pin) garage fixtures are slowly dying...(4 total double tube)
the old t-12s are hard to find and expensive (16-20 bucks a tube)
 
Want to change to led... lots of options  - 
8' led tubes are expensive too ... 
 
I was gifted a box of 20 4' bi-pin 
bulbs that work with a ballast...(heat sink)
 
option 1 
if I use these 
I'd have to change all the tombstones to bi-pin and figure out the
shunted vs non shunted type...  AND find the 8' 
to 4' fixture conversion kits (adding the middle tombstones
 
option 2
8' 
type a led single pin tubes (about the same price as 
8' fluorescent) and use a ballast
not great reviews when shipped...
 
option 3
 
replace all the crap with the internet specials  linkable stick lights and hope they work
 
comments on options ????
 
questions... when using the ballast type plug and plays... aren't 
I using more electricity using the ballast 
and heating it up... is there any savings here ???
 
 
please educate the old dummy on best (least expensive) options
 
 
 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-
talk/ejrussell61 at gmail.com
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From eric at megageek.com  Tue Oct 20 05:45:56 2026
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2026 07:45:56 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] flourescent to led changeover
In-Reply-To: <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY@johns-desktop>
References: <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY.ref@johns-desktop>
 <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY@johns-desktop>
Message-ID: <OFF78D3B68.AD36A2D5-ON85258E96.003FE5C5-85258E96.0040A1F1@mail.megageek.com>

AW, The moment I thought would never come is here.

John, I have a few boxes (maybe 30 in total bulbs) of the 8' single pin 
lights.

Come pick them up in NJ and they are yours for free.

I doubt it would pay to ship them as they would require such protection to 
ship.

Where are you located?

Moose
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From jniolon at att.net  Tue Oct 20 06:25:29 2026
From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon)
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2026 07:25:29 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] flourescent to led changeover
In-Reply-To: <OFF78D3B68.AD36A2D5-ON85258E96.003FE5C5-85258E96.0040A1F1@mail.megageek.com>
References: <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY.ref@johns-desktop>
 <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY@johns-desktop>
 <OFF78D3B68.AD36A2D5-ON85258E96.003FE5C5-85258E96.0040A1F1@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <1UnKcSmKTB.PLeFQTfs2Op@johns-desktop>

thanks Moose, amazing offer... but, 
I'm in Alabama and the trip would be high $$$$$
 
I went with the internet led stick lights...should be here by Friday... will report on success
 
thanks
john
 
----- Original Message -----
From: <eric at megageek.com>
To: <Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Cc: john niolon <jniolon at att.net>
Sent: 10/20/2026 6:45:56 AM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] flourescent to led changeover



AW, The moment I thought would never come is here. 

John, I have a few boxes (maybe 30 in total bulbs) of the 8' 
single pin lights. 

Come pick them up in NJ and they are yours for free. 

I doubt it would pay to ship them as they would require such protection to ship. 

Where are you located? 

Moose 
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From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Thu Oct 22 16:02:05 2026
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2026 17:02:05 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] flourescent to led changeover
In-Reply-To: <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY@johns-desktop>
References: <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY@johns-desktop>
Message-ID: <1E2A338C-D156-48FB-A148-F468AD3E957A@gmail.com>

8? fluorescent fixtures are probably worth remapping with led tubes, replacing lamp holders as required, and bypassing the ballast, as they are probably better fixtures than what you would replace with. If the layout was generally okay that is what I would recommend.  

Plug connected led shop lights are universally garbage, unless you?re paying for real commercial fixtures. The market is entirely price driven, for people unwilling to do something better, and they are built as cheaply as possible, and often a little bit cheaper than that, to the detriment of their lifespan. There?s certainly a place for that, as a light over a work bench that gets used 10 times a year isn?t worth spending money on, nor are rentals worth improving by the tenant.  The good thing is they?re easy to replace?


> On Oct 19, 2026, at 12:26, john niolon <jniolon at att.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Hi all
>  
> My 30 year old 8' t-12 (single pin) garage fixtures are slowly dying...(4 total double tube)
> the old t-12s are hard to find and expensive (16-20 bucks a tube)
>  
> Want to change to led... lots of options  - 8' led tubes are expensive too ...
>  
> I was gifted a box of 20 4' bi-pin bulbs that work with a ballast...(heat sink)
>  
> option 1
> if I use these I'd have to change all the tombstones to bi-pin and figure out the
> shunted vs non shunted type...  AND find the 8' to 4' fixture conversion kits (adding the middle tombstones
>  
> option 2
> 8' type a led single pin tubes (about the same price as 8' fluorescent) and use a ballast
> not great reviews when shipped...
>  
> option 3
>  
> replace all the crap with the internet specials  linkable stick lights and hope they work
>  
> comments on options ????
>  
> questions... when using the ballast type plug and plays... aren't I using more electricity using the ballast
> and heating it up... is there any savings here ???
>  
>  
> please educate the old dummy on best (least expensive) options
>  
>  
>  
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
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> 
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From jamesf at groupwbench.org  Thu Oct 29 11:25:08 2026
From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2026 13:25:08 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?
Message-ID: <F50E091C-7E33-4418-A865-1D3574444181@groupwbench.org>

I need to cut down about 20 of these a few inches below grade. The catch is they are right next to my neighbor's PVC fence, so I can't get to that side. 

I can use my sawzall but I want the cut parallel to the grade which means getting the entire sawzall below grade and sucking schmutz into the motor. Do-able and at the top of the list so far. 

I was going to rent an excavator (still might) to also remove the concrete blob but then I'd need a bunch of fill delivered (none on site but there may be some when they dig up the driveway to repave it, shelving this idea for a few weeks), hassle factor exceeds the joy of having an excavator. 

Portable bandsaw seems like a useful lifetime tool, especially if it can be mounted vertically to use as a regular bandsaw and also mounted in a chop saw table. Internet isn't forthcoming on the viability of these options. 

Angle grinder won't reach around the back.

Plasma cutter is contraindicated with neighbor's fence. 

Any other ideas? 

thanks,
jim

From strovato at optonline.net  Thu Oct 29 12:13:53 2026
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2026 14:13:53 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?
In-Reply-To: <F50E091C-7E33-4418-A865-1D3574444181@groupwbench.org>
References: <F50E091C-7E33-4418-A865-1D3574444181@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <6AE38A5E00009837@altprdrgo001.altice.prod.cloud.openwave.ai>
 (added by postmaster@optonline.net)

Jim,

Unless the concrete blob is the size of a Volkswagen, you should be 
able to pull the whole thing out of the ground without an 
excavator.  There are various approaches with a farm jack and a 
chain, a car jack or a very long lever.  Search for pulling fence 
posts on google or youtube.  There are a bunch of videos that should 
give you some ideas.

-Steve

At 01:25 PM 10/29/2026, Jim Franklin wrote:
>I need to cut down about 20 of these a few inches below grade. The 
>catch is they are right next to my neighbor's PVC fence, so I can't 
>get to that side.
>
>I can use my sawzall but I want the cut parallel to the grade which 
>means getting the entire sawzall below grade and sucking schmutz 
>into the motor. Do-able and at the top of the list so far.
>
>I was going to rent an excavator (still might) to also remove the 
>concrete blob but then I'd need a bunch of fill delivered (none on 
>site but there may be some when they dig up the driveway to repave 
>it, shelving this idea for a few weeks), hassle factor exceeds the 
>joy of having an excavator.
>
>Portable bandsaw seems like a useful lifetime tool, especially if it 
>can be mounted vertically to use as a regular bandsaw and also 
>mounted in a chop saw table. Internet isn't forthcoming on the 
>viability of these options.
>
>Angle grinder won't reach around the back.
>
>Plasma cutter is contraindicated with neighbor's fence.
>
>Any other ideas?
>
>thanks,
>jim


-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
www.avast.com

From jamesf at groupwbench.org  Thu Oct 29 13:55:49 2026
From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2026 15:55:49 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?
In-Reply-To: <6AE38A5E00009837@altprdrgo001.altice.prod.cloud.openwave.ai>
References: <F50E091C-7E33-4418-A865-1D3574444181@groupwbench.org>
 <6AE38A5E00009837@altprdrgo001.altice.prod.cloud.openwave.ai>
Message-ID: <6C84D036-1FC8-460D-9C27-2AA5A51B7B07@groupwbench.org>

Pulling them up will destroy the neighbor's fence so that's not an option. But I tried that with an 8' 2x4 out in front of the house where I do want to remove the concrete, and the posts didn't budge. The fence is from the 60s when concrete was cheap :-)

jim

ps - when the neighbor put in his garage, the excavator guy pulled up engine blocks and transmissions that had been buried decades ago, so you might not be far off with Volkswagens!

> On Oct 29, 2026, at 2:13 PM, Steven Trovato <strovato at optonline.net> wrote:
> 
> Jim,
> 
> Unless the concrete blob is the size of a Volkswagen, you should be able to pull the whole thing out of the ground without an excavator.  There are various approaches with a farm jack and a chain, a car jack or a very long lever.  Search for pulling fence posts on google or youtube.  There are a bunch of videos that should give you some ideas.
> 
> -Steve
> 
> At 01:25 PM 10/29/2026, Jim Franklin wrote:
>> I need to cut down about 20 of these a few inches below grade. The catch is they are right next to my neighbor's PVC fence, so I can't get to that side.
>> 
>> I can use my sawzall but I want the cut parallel to the grade which means getting the entire sawzall below grade and sucking schmutz into the motor. Do-able and at the top of the list so far.
>> 
>> I was going to rent an excavator (still might) to also remove the concrete blob but then I'd need a bunch of fill delivered (none on site but there may be some when they dig up the driveway to repave it, shelving this idea for a few weeks), hassle factor exceeds the joy of having an excavator.
>> 
>> Portable bandsaw seems like a useful lifetime tool, especially if it can be mounted vertically to use as a regular bandsaw and also mounted in a chop saw table. Internet isn't forthcoming on the viability of these options.
>> 
>> Angle grinder won't reach around the back.
>> 
>> Plasma cutter is contraindicated with neighbor's fence.
>> 
>> Any other ideas?
>> 
>> thanks,
>> jim
> 
> 
> -- 
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> www.avast.com <http://www.avast.com/>
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From 1789alpine at gmail.com  Thu Oct 29 14:32:28 2026
From: 1789alpine at gmail.com (Jim Stone)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2026 16:32:28 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?
In-Reply-To: <6C84D036-1FC8-460D-9C27-2AA5A51B7B07@groupwbench.org>
References: <F50E091C-7E33-4418-A865-1D3574444181@groupwbench.org>
 <6AE38A5E00009837@altprdrgo001.altice.prod.cloud.openwave.ai>
 <6C84D036-1FC8-460D-9C27-2AA5A51B7B07@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <0BE8A037-CF77-4736-9F65-62285FDA8CFE@gmail.com>

I don?t know if this is possible, but I have used an engine lift to remove fence posts set in concrete before.  The only challenge is getting the chain on the post.  I put a pair of heavy duty eye bolts in each side and attached the chain to them.  (FWIW, I have also pulled out tree stumps the same way.)

Jim

> On Oct 29, 2026, at 3:55?PM, Jim Franklin <jamesf at groupwbench.org> wrote:
> 
> Pulling them up will destroy the neighbor's fence so that's not an option. But I tried that with an 8' 2x4 out in front of the house where I do want to remove the concrete, and the posts didn't budge. The fence is from the 60s when concrete was cheap :-)
> 
> jim
> 
> ps - when the neighbor put in his garage, the excavator guy pulled up engine blocks and transmissions that had been buried decades ago, so you might not be far off with Volkswagens!
> 
>> On Oct 29, 2026, at 2:13 PM, Steven Trovato <strovato at optonline.net <mailto:strovato at optonline.net>> wrote:
>> 
>> Jim,
>> 
>> Unless the concrete blob is the size of a Volkswagen, you should be able to pull the whole thing out of the ground without an excavator.  There are various approaches with a farm jack and a chain, a car jack or a very long lever.  Search for pulling fence posts on google or youtube.  There are a bunch of videos that should give you some ideas.
>> 
>> -Steve
>> 
>> At 01:25 PM 10/29/2026, Jim Franklin wrote:
>>> I need to cut down about 20 of these a few inches below grade. The catch is they are right next to my neighbor's PVC fence, so I can't get to that side.
>>> 
>>> I can use my sawzall but I want the cut parallel to the grade which means getting the entire sawzall below grade and sucking schmutz into the motor. Do-able and at the top of the list so far.
>>> 
>>> I was going to rent an excavator (still might) to also remove the concrete blob but then I'd need a bunch of fill delivered (none on site but there may be some when they dig up the driveway to repave it, shelving this idea for a few weeks), hassle factor exceeds the joy of having an excavator.
>>> 
>>> Portable bandsaw seems like a useful lifetime tool, especially if it can be mounted vertically to use as a regular bandsaw and also mounted in a chop saw table. Internet isn't forthcoming on the viability of these options.
>>> 
>>> Angle grinder won't reach around the back.
>>> 
>>> Plasma cutter is contraindicated with neighbor's fence.
>>> 
>>> Any other ideas?
>>> 
>>> thanks,
>>> jim
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>> www.avast.com <http://www.avast.com/>
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
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From strovato at optonline.net  Thu Oct 29 14:36:42 2026
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2026 16:36:42 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?
In-Reply-To: <6C84D036-1FC8-460D-9C27-2AA5A51B7B07@groupwbench.org>
References: <F50E091C-7E33-4418-A865-1D3574444181@groupwbench.org>
 <6AE38A5E00009837@altprdrgo001.altice.prod.cloud.openwave.ai>
 <6C84D036-1FC8-460D-9C27-2AA5A51B7B07@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <6AE3ADB8000024DA@altprdrgo002.altice.prod.cloud.openwave.ai>
 (added by postmaster@optonline.net)

Well, in that case, the excavator is probably not an option either.

At 03:55 PM 10/29/2026, Jim Franklin wrote:
>Pulling them up will destroy the neighbor's fence so that's not an 
>option. But I tried that with an 8' 2x4 out in front of the house 
>where I do want to remove the concrete, and the posts didn't budge. 
>The fence is from the 60s when concrete was cheap :-)
>
>jim
>
>ps - when the neighbor put in his garage, the excavator guy pulled 
>up engine blocks and transmissions that had been buried decades ago, 
>so you might not be far off with Volkswagens!


-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
www.avast.com

From strovato at optonline.net  Thu Oct 29 14:43:11 2026
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2026 16:43:11 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?
In-Reply-To: <6C84D036-1FC8-460D-9C27-2AA5A51B7B07@groupwbench.org>
References: <F50E091C-7E33-4418-A865-1D3574444181@groupwbench.org>
 <6AE38A5E00009837@altprdrgo001.altice.prod.cloud.openwave.ai>
 <6C84D036-1FC8-460D-9C27-2AA5A51B7B07@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <6AE3AED400002D8D@altprdrgo001.altice.prod.cloud.openwave.ai>
 (added by postmaster@optonline.net)

Also, it sounds like you're not exactly best friends with the 
neighbor.  How confident are you that you know exactly where the 
property line is?  I'm not recommending that you start a neighbor 
war, but knowing for sure could be useful at some point.

At 03:55 PM 10/29/2026, Jim Franklin wrote:
>Pulling them up will destroy the neighbor's fence so that's not an 
>option. But I tried that with an 8' 2x4 out in front of the house 
>where I do want to remove the concrete, and the posts didn't budge. 
>The fence is from the 60s when concrete was cheap :-)
>
>jim
>
>ps - when the neighbor put in his garage, the excavator guy pulled 
>up engine blocks and transmissions that had been buried decades ago, 
>so you might not be far off with Volkswagens!
>
>>On Oct 29, 2026, at 2:13 PM, Steven Trovato <strovato at optonline.net> wrote:
>>
>>Jim,
>>
>>Unless the concrete blob is the size of a Volkswagen, you should be 
>>able to pull the whole thing out of the ground without an 
>>excavator.  There are various approaches with a farm jack and a 
>>chain, a car jack or a very long lever.  Search for pulling fence 
>>posts on google or youtube.  There are a bunch of videos that 
>>should give you some ideas.
>>
>>-Steve
>>
>>At 01:25 PM 10/29/2026, Jim Franklin wrote:
>>>I need to cut down about 20 of these a few inches below grade. The 
>>>catch is they are right next to my neighbor's PVC fence, so I 
>>>can't get to that side.
>>>
>>>I can use my sawzall but I want the cut parallel to the grade 
>>>which means getting the entire sawzall below grade and sucking 
>>>schmutz into the motor. Do-able and at the top of the list so far.
>>>
>>>I was going to rent an excavator (still might) to also remove the 
>>>concrete blob but then I'd need a bunch of fill delivered (none on 
>>>site but there may be some when they dig up the driveway to repave 
>>>it, shelving this idea for a few weeks), hassle factor exceeds the 
>>>joy of having an excavator.
>>>
>>>Portable bandsaw seems like a useful lifetime tool, especially if 
>>>it can be mounted vertically to use as a regular bandsaw and also 
>>>mounted in a chop saw table. Internet isn't forthcoming on the 
>>>viability of these options.
>>>
>>>Angle grinder won't reach around the back.
>>>
>>>Plasma cutter is contraindicated with neighbor's fence.
>>>
>>>Any other ideas?
>>>
>>>thanks,
>>>jim
>>
>>
>>--
>>This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>><http://www.avast.com/>www.avast.com


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From bk13 at earthlink.net  Thu Oct 29 16:12:52 2026
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2026 22:12:52 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?
Message-ID: <d6fbf2c5-2b08-c2b2-165d-e19f3bbe158e@earthlink.net>

How about something like this?  A fence post may be too thick, but there are similar options for heavier pipe.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/GEARWRENCH-3-4-in-to-3-in-Exhaust-and-Tailpipe-Cutter-2031DD/205593288


You might also want to check with a local fence contractor.  They likely have additional options.


Brian


-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Franklin <jamesf at groupwbench.org>
Sent: Oct 29, 2026 12:58 PM
To: Steven Trovato <strovato at optonline.net>
Cc: Shop-Talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?


Pulling them up will destroy the neighbor's fence so that's not an option. But I tried that with an 8' 2x4 out in front of the house where I do want to remove the concrete, and the posts didn't budge. The fence is from the 60s when concrete was cheap :-)

jim


ps - when the neighbor put in his garage, the excavator guy pulled up engine blocks and transmissions that had been buried decades ago, so you might not be far off with Volkswagens!

On Oct 29, 2026, at 2:13 PM, Steven Trovato <strovato at optonline.net> wrote:
Jim,Unless the concrete blob is the size of a Volkswagen, you should be able to pull the whole thing out of the ground without an excavator.  There are various approaches with a farm jack and a chain, a car jack or a very long lever.  Search for pulling fence posts on google or youtube.  There are a bunch of videos that should give you some ideas.-SteveAt 01:25 PM 10/29/2026, Jim Franklin wrote:I need to cut down about 20 of these a few inches below grade. The catch is they are right next to my neighbor's PVC fence, so I can't get to that side.

I can use my sawzall but I want the cut parallel to the grade which means getting the entire sawzall below grade and sucking schmutz into the motor. Do-able and at the top of the list so far.

I was going to rent an excavator (still might) to also remove the concrete blob but then I'd need a bunch of fill delivered (none on site but there may be some when they dig up the driveway to repave it, shelving this idea for a few weeks), hassle factor exceeds the joy of having an excavator.

Portable bandsaw seems like a useful lifetime tool, especially if it can be mounted vertically to use as a regular bandsaw and also mounted in a chop saw table. Internet isn't forthcoming on the viability of these options.

Angle grinder won't reach around the back.

Plasma cutter is contraindicated with neighbor's fence.

Any other ideas?

thanks,
jim

-- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.www.avast.com (http://www.avast.com/)







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From darmstrong at nexicom.net  Thu Oct 29 17:06:00 2026
From: darmstrong at nexicom.net (DArmstrong)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2026 19:06:00 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?
In-Reply-To: <F50E091C-7E33-4418-A865-1D3574444181@groupwbench.org>
References: <F50E091C-7E33-4418-A865-1D3574444181@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <004d01dd67fa$10aa8b00$31ffa100$@nexicom.net>

A portable plasma cutter?  A handy tool to have for other jobs.

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Jim Franklin
Sent: October 29, 2026 1:25 PM
To: Shop-Talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?

I need to cut down about 20 of these a few inches below grade. The catch is
they are right next to my neighbor's PVC fence, so I can't get to that side.


I can use my sawzall but I want the cut parallel to the grade which means
getting the entire sawzall below grade and sucking schmutz into the motor.
Do-able and at the top of the list so far. 

I was going to rent an excavator (still might) to also remove the concrete
blob but then I'd need a bunch of fill delivered (none on site but there may
be some when they dig up the driveway to repave it, shelving this idea for a
few weeks), hassle factor exceeds the joy of having an excavator. 

Portable bandsaw seems like a useful lifetime tool, especially if it can be
mounted vertically to use as a regular bandsaw and also mounted in a chop
saw table. Internet isn't forthcoming on the viability of these options. 

Angle grinder won't reach around the back.

Plasma cutter is contraindicated with neighbor's fence. 

Any other ideas? 

thanks,
jim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
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From markmiller at threeboysfarm.com  Thu Oct 29 18:54:11 2026
From: markmiller at threeboysfarm.com (Mark Miller)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2026 17:54:11 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post? (Jim Franklin)
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1793296802.9627.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1.1793296802.9627.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <7a04d017-6116-4455-93d4-d32007037e1d@threeboysfarm.com>

A few thoughts:

You could cut them with a sawzall with a long reasonably flexible blade 
bent to remain flat to and below the ground level.

You could cut them with a sawzall at an angle and then come back with an 
angle grinder and then make the cut parallel to the ground once the rest 
of the post isn't in the way.

It would be slower but an oscillating tool with a good carbide blade can 
get in from both sides with a cut quite close to the concrete below it.

You could get/make a good heat shield to protect the fence and then use 
a torch. This looks to be the most potentially problematic but also the 
most fun.

Regards,

Mark Miller   707-490-5834
markmiller at threeboysfarm.com

On 10/29/2026 11:00 AM, shop-talk-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2026 13:25:08 -0400
> From: Jim Franklin <jamesf at groupwbench.org>
> To: Shop-Talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?
> Message-ID: <F50E091C-7E33-4418-A865-1D3574444181 at groupwbench.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset=us-ascii
>
> I need to cut down about 20 of these a few inches below grade. The catch is they are right next to my neighbor's PVC fence, so I can't get to that side.
>
> I can use my sawzall but I want the cut parallel to the grade which means getting the entire sawzall below grade and sucking schmutz into the motor. Do-able and at the top of the list so far.
>
> I was going to rent an excavator (still might) to also remove the concrete blob but then I'd need a bunch of fill delivered (none on site but there may be some when they dig up the driveway to repave it, shelving this idea for a few weeks), hassle factor exceeds the joy of having an excavator.
>
> Portable bandsaw seems like a useful lifetime tool, especially if it can be mounted vertically to use as a regular bandsaw and also mounted in a chop saw table. Internet isn't forthcoming on the viability of these options.
>
> Angle grinder won't reach around the back.
>
> Plasma cutter is contraindicated with neighbor's fence.
>
> Any other ideas?
>
> thanks,
> jim
>
>

From gene at garrison-grafixx.com  Thu Oct 29 19:07:14 2026
From: gene at garrison-grafixx.com (Gene Garrison)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2026 18:07:14 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?
In-Reply-To: <6AE38A5E00009837@altprdrgo001.altice.prod.cloud.openwave.ai>
References: <F50E091C-7E33-4418-A865-1D3574444181@groupwbench.org>
 <6AE38A5E00009837@altprdrgo001.altice.prod.cloud.openwave.ai>
Message-ID: <4c69d56e-dafd-46ac-a6d8-77b3b1307b2c@garrison-grafixx.com>

An engine hoist works great...

- GeneG


On 10/29/26 11:13 AM, Steven Trovato wrote:
> Jim,
>
> Unless the concrete blob is the size of a Volkswagen, you should be 
> able to pull the whole thing out of the ground without an excavator.? 
> There are various approaches with a farm jack and a chain, a car jack 
> or a very long lever.? Search for pulling fence posts on google or 
> youtube.? There are a bunch of videos that should give you some ideas.
>
> -Steve
>
> At 01:25 PM 10/29/2026, Jim Franklin wrote:
>> I need to cut down about 20 of these a few inches below grade. The 
>> catch is they are right next to my neighbor's PVC fence, so I can't 
>> get to that side.
>>
>> I can use my sawzall but I want the cut parallel to the grade which 
>> means getting the entire sawzall below grade and sucking schmutz into 
>> the motor. Do-able and at the top of the list so far.
>>
>> I was going to rent an excavator (still might) to also remove the 
>> concrete blob but then I'd need a bunch of fill delivered (none on 
>> site but there may be some when they dig up the driveway to repave 
>> it, shelving this idea for a few weeks), hassle factor exceeds the 
>> joy of having an excavator.
>>
>> Portable bandsaw seems like a useful lifetime tool, especially if it 
>> can be mounted vertically to use as a regular bandsaw and also 
>> mounted in a chop saw table. Internet isn't forthcoming on the 
>> viability of these options.
>>
>> Angle grinder won't reach around the back.
>>
>> Plasma cutter is contraindicated with neighbor's fence.
>>
>> Any other ideas?
>>
>> thanks,
>> jim
>
>

From mmeany7 at gmail.com  Fri Oct 30 06:53:02 2026
From: mmeany7 at gmail.com (Mark Meany)
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2026 08:53:02 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop-talk Digest, Vol 20, Issue 126
In-Reply-To: <mailman.16629.1793315206.28221.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.16629.1793315206.28221.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CAMHjtW-5FH-03NtWbK-fca+FS-AvM45F+Sy4JV38e=jg5uRyNw@mail.gmail.com>

Since this hasn't been mentioned yet, I thought I'd point out the peril in
cutting galvanized pipe. I imagine the fumes created by a plasma cutter
would be pretty dangerous and wonder whether the dust from a Sawzall might
have issues too. It may be that the best option is an engine hoist (2 floor
jacks?) connected to a rod sticking out on either side of holes poked into
the post. Probably clearing the dirt out from on top of the concrete base
would help.

>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> . Re: Cutting a chain link fence post? (Steven Trovato)
>    2. Re: Cutting a chain link fence post? (Steven Trovato)
>    3. Re: Cutting a chain link fence post? (Brian Kemp)
>    4. Re: Cutting a chain link fence post? (DArmstrong)
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Steven Trovato <strovato at optonline.net>
> To: Jim Franklin <jamesf at groupwbench.org>
> Cc: Shop-Talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> Bcc:
> Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2026 16:36:42 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?
> Well, in that case, the excavator is probably not an option either.
>
> At 03:55
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Jim
> Franklin
> Sent: October 29, 2026 1:25 PM
> To: Shop-Talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?
>
> I need to cut down about 20 of these a few inches below grade. The catch is
> they are right next to my neighbor's PVC fence, so I can't get to that
> side.
>
>
> I can use my sawzall but I want the cut parallel to the grade which means
> getting the entire sawzall below grade and sucking schmutz into the motor.
> Do-able and at the top of the list so far.
>
> I was going to rent an excavator (still might) to also remove the concrete
> blob but then I'd need a bunch of fill delivered (none on site but there
> may
> be some when they dig up the driveway to repave it, shelving this idea for
> a
> few weeks), hassle factor exceeds the joy of having an excavator.
>
> Portable bandsaw seems like a useful lifetime tool, especially if it can be
> mounted vertically to use as a regular bandsaw and also mounted in a chop
> saw table. Internet isn't forthcoming on the viability of these options.
>
> Angle grinder won't reach around the back.
>
> Plasma cutter is contraindicated with neighbor's fence.
>
>
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From jamesf at groupwbench.org  Fri Oct 30 07:42:06 2026
From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin)
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2026 09:42:06 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop-talk Digest, Vol 20, Issue 126
In-Reply-To: <CAMHjtW-5FH-03NtWbK-fca+FS-AvM45F+Sy4JV38e=jg5uRyNw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.16629.1793315206.28221.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
 <CAMHjtW-5FH-03NtWbK-fca+FS-AvM45F+Sy4JV38e=jg5uRyNw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <680E7204-1876-491F-A742-FA0EF932B16D@groupwbench.org>

The plasma cutter also suffers from being too short, but yea the fume thing is a big impediment. The sawzall didn't make much smoke, so I'm not worried, and it turned out to live up to its name. About 5 minutes per post, way easier than I expected, though I ran out of extension cord and need another 50 footer. When I sold my last house in 2020 and swore I'd never own a house again I gave away a large box of really good ones. :-(

Addressing another comment - I'm on good terms with my neighbor, another reason I don't want to damage his fence. And he only put up the fence to stop the 2-owners-ago creepy guy from staring at his wife & kids in the pool. 

Using a hoist to pull up the plug of concrete would damage the fence; I'd have needed to dig a trench on the side and slide the whole mess out. 

That chain tailpipe cutter...interesting tool, might have worked. I did think about a soil stack cutter as well. But 1/8" thick pipe might blow out my forearms before I got one done. 

Thanks for all the ideas. 

jim

> On Oct 30, 2026, at 8:53 AM, Mark Meany <mmeany7 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> Since this hasn't been mentioned yet, I thought I'd point out the peril in cutting galvanized pipe. I imagine the fumes created by a plasma cutter would be pretty dangerous and wonder whether the dust from a Sawzall might have issues too. It may be that the best option is an engine hoist (2 floor jacks?) connected to a rod sticking out on either side of holes poked into the post. Probably clearing the dirt out from on top of the concrete base would help.
>> 
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>> . Re: Cutting a chain link fence post? (Steven Trovato)
>>    2. Re: Cutting a chain link fence post? (Steven Trovato)
>>    3. Re: Cutting a chain link fence post? (Brian Kemp)
>>    4. Re: Cutting a chain link fence post? (DArmstrong)
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
>> From: Steven Trovato <strovato at optonline.net <mailto:strovato at optonline.net>>
>> To: Jim Franklin <jamesf at groupwbench.org <mailto:jamesf at groupwbench.org>>
>> Cc: Shop-Talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:shop-talk at autox.team.net>>
>> Bcc: 
>> Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2026 16:36:42 -0400
>> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?
>> Well, in that case, the excavator is probably not an option either.
>> 
>> At 03:55  
>>>> 
>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net>> On Behalf Of Jim Franklin
>> Sent: October 29, 2026 1:25 PM
>> To: Shop-Talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:shop-talk at autox.team.net>>
>> Subject: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?
>> 
>> I need to cut down about 20 of these a few inches below grade. The catch is
>> they are right next to my neighbor's PVC fence, so I can't get to that side.
>> 
>> 
>> I can use my sawzall but I want the cut parallel to the grade which means
>> getting the entire sawzall below grade and sucking schmutz into the motor.
>> Do-able and at the top of the list so far. 
>> 
>> I was going to rent an excavator (still might) to also remove the concrete
>> blob but then I'd need a bunch of fill delivered (none on site but there may
>> be some when they dig up the driveway to repave it, shelving this idea for a
>> few weeks), hassle factor exceeds the joy of having an excavator. 
>> 
>> Portable bandsaw seems like a useful lifetime tool, especially if it can be
>> mounted vertically to use as a regular bandsaw and also mounted in a chop
>> saw table. Internet isn't forthcoming on the viability of these options. 
>> 
>> Angle grinder won't reach around the back.
>> 
>> Plasma cutter is contraindicated with neighbor's fence. 
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org
> 

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