From dhlocker at protonmail.com  Wed May  1 03:15:26 2024
From: dhlocker at protonmail.com (Donald H Locker)
Date: Wed, 01 May 2024 09:15:26 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] IPHONE MAP APPS FOR DUMMIES
In-Reply-To: <944986150.5619151.1714504999366@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <944986150.5619151.1714504999366.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <944986150.5619151.1714504999366@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <c2dd0557-8fb7-475a-8762-860efae9ca86@protonmail.com>

What my spouse and I do is set waypoints that force G**gle to follow the chosen roads. We often use US or state highways but don't necessarily want to always "avoid highways" so placing a few stores or villages along the preferred route off-Interstates, but the normal routing along I'state remain. Seems to work.

Donald.

On 2024-04-30 15:23, john niolon wrote:

> Time to help the dummy again
> \
> I've mapped out a route I want to take on vacation trip in Google Maps... It gave me three options and I plotted my own. Then I told GM to send it to my phone and email
>
> It sent a file but it was of one of their options, not my chosen route... can someone help me get my designed route to a phone
>
> or
>
> is there a better mapping app that lets you design your own route and save it.
>
> thanks
>
> the dummy
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From berry at kerch.com  Wed May  1 08:12:02 2024
From: berry at kerch.com (Berry Kercheval)
Date: Wed, 1 May 2024 07:12:02 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] IPHONE MAP APPS FOR DUMMIES
In-Reply-To: <944986150.5619151.1714504999366@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <944986150.5619151.1714504999366.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <944986150.5619151.1714504999366@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAEbvuy=yb55C-4NXNB9wBUCT0ds22EcVdTODM44OfsFjtJHTKQ@mail.gmail.com>

If you use the Apple Maps app, you can add stops to your route and reorder
them.  I sometimes add waypoints to warp the suggested route into what I
want.

On Tue, Apr 30, 2024 at 12:27?PM john niolon <jniolon at att.net> wrote:

> Time to help the dummy again
> \
> I've mapped out a route I want to take on vacation trip in Google Maps...
> It gave me three options and I plotted my own.  Then I told GM to send it
> to my phone and email
>
> It sent a file but it was of one of their options, not my chosen route...
> can someone help me get my designed route to a phone
>
> or
>
> is there a better mapping app that lets you design your own route and save
> it.
>
> thanks
>
> the dummy
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/berry at kerch.com
>
>
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From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Thu May  2 07:12:30 2024
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Benjamin Zwissler)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2024 09:12:30 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Scissor Lift
Message-ID: <CAMHq6ZwWP6=6f9SgvCMteAcmyMF4Enwj-1hBw_=GNYby4s-ykA@mail.gmail.com>

Hello,

I'm considering a mid- or low-rise scissor lift to make access to
interiors, brakes and suspension easier.  I find I avoid interior and dash
work because its so low to the ground I struggle to get and stay that low
for any length of time.  I already have a two-post lift so access to the
underside isn't an issue, but access to the interior is difficult with the
arms and post in the way of the door opening.

My concern is whether the popular brands will fit under Triumphs and
similar cars.  Does anyone have any experience with these on our cars?
Specifically I'm concerned about the narrower width of our cars and that we
can't lift on "pinch" welds like most modern cars.  Some come with arms and
posts to select lift points, others come with rubber blocks to allow
specific points to be used for lifting.

Here's the type of thing I'm looking at:

https://racetoolsdirect.com/product/tuxedo-mid-rise-scissor-lift/?com_cvv=81c269aab9bc5fc4177fabac3c77acd26f491510dd5f94a06570d6c819846581#

https://www.bestbuyautoequipment.com/amgo-hydr-mr06-6k-mid-rise-port-scissor-lift-p/MR06.htm

https://allautomotiveequipmentsupply.com/products/atlas-lr-06p-portable-low-rise-scissor-auto-lift-6000-lb?variant=14718685282359&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=4&gclid=CjwKCAjw88yxBhBWEiwA7cm6pRwIohns5akFIf0Ghh9gyDFhoF3llf7L61iKmxPBDar6qxmh_i0CzhoCFcwQAvD_BwE

I welcome any comments.

Thanks, Ben


Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com
812-343-5533
Columbus, IN
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From rrochlin at comcast.net  Thu May  2 07:40:46 2024
From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Rochlin Robert)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2024 09:40:46 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Scissor Lift
In-Reply-To: <CAMHq6ZwWP6=6f9SgvCMteAcmyMF4Enwj-1hBw_=GNYby4s-ykA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMHq6ZwWP6=6f9SgvCMteAcmyMF4Enwj-1hBw_=GNYby4s-ykA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D69B5D12-C039-4D33-A7E1-F22B8EE32AB9@comcast.net>

Hi Ben,
	for the last 10 years I've been using the Easy Car Lift https://ezcarlift.com/ with great success.  It is able to lift my TR6 26" from the ground and provides great woking access, and as you can see, it takes up very little space when stored. I use a 1/2 inch drill to power the lift.
	Best,
	Bob
	'72 TR6

??


> On May 2, 2024, at 9:12?AM, Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> 

> I'm considering a mid- or low-rise scissor lift to make access to interiors, brakes and suspension easier.  I find I avoid interior and dash work because its so low to the ground I struggle to get and stay that low for any length of time.  I already have a two-post lift so access to the underside isn't an issue, but access to the interior is difficult with the arms and post in the way of the door opening.
> 
> My concern is whether the popular brands will fit under Triumphs and similar cars.  Does anyone have any experience with these on our cars?  Specifically I'm concerned about the narrower width of our cars and that we can't lift on "pinch" welds like most modern cars.  Some come with arms and posts to select lift points, others come with rubber blocks to allow specific points to be used for lifting.
> 
> Here's the type of thing I'm looking at:
> 
> https://racetoolsdirect.com/product/tuxedo-mid-rise-scissor-lift/?com_cvv=81c269aab9bc5fc4177fabac3c77acd26f491510dd5f94a06570d6c819846581#
> 
> https://www.bestbuyautoequipment.com/amgo-hydr-mr06-6k-mid-rise-port-scissor-lift-p/MR06.htm
> 
> https://allautomotiveequipmentsupply.com/products/atlas-lr-06p-portable-low-rise-scissor-auto-lift-6000-lb?variant=14718685282359&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=4&gclid=CjwKCAjw88yxBhBWEiwA7cm6pRwIohns5akFIf0Ghh9gyDFhoF3llf7L61iKmxPBDar6qxmh_i0CzhoCFcwQAvD_BwE
> 
> I welcome any comments.
> 
> Thanks, Ben
> 
> 
> Ben Zwissler
> bjzwissler at gmail.com <mailto:bjzwissler at gmail.com>
> 812-343-5533
> Columbus, IN
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rrochlin at comcast.net
> 

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From parkanzky at gmail.com  Thu May  2 07:55:53 2024
From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2024 09:55:53 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Scissor Lift
In-Reply-To: <CAMHq6ZwWP6=6f9SgvCMteAcmyMF4Enwj-1hBw_=GNYby4s-ykA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMHq6ZwWP6=6f9SgvCMteAcmyMF4Enwj-1hBw_=GNYby4s-ykA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAOEriin4ywp86izmD+CAKOFcQ-gniN5qfdk+aLuXa6S=p=T+vA@mail.gmail.com>

Have you considered a four post lift? I have both a 2 and a 4 post lift and
they compliment each other very well. The two post allows you to do
wheels-off work but when you don't need that the four post is WAY
faster/easier to put a car on with no concern for lifting points and stuff
and is much more convenient for oil changes and things like that. You'd
have full access to the sides of the vehicle at any height you'd like with
a four post lift. As a bonus you can store a car on it when you're not
using it for something else.

-Paul

On Thu, May 2, 2024 at 9:28?AM Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I'm considering a mid- or low-rise scissor lift to make access to
> interiors, brakes and suspension easier.  I find I avoid interior and dash
> work because its so low to the ground I struggle to get and stay that low
> for any length of time.  I already have a two-post lift so access to the
> underside isn't an issue, but access to the interior is difficult with the
> arms and post in the way of the door opening.
>
> My concern is whether the popular brands will fit under Triumphs and
> similar cars.  Does anyone have any experience with these on our cars?
> Specifically I'm concerned about the narrower width of our cars and that we
> can't lift on "pinch" welds like most modern cars.  Some come with arms and
> posts to select lift points, others come with rubber blocks to allow
> specific points to be used for lifting.
>
> Here's the type of thing I'm looking at:
>
>
> https://racetoolsdirect.com/product/tuxedo-mid-rise-scissor-lift/?com_cvv=81c269aab9bc5fc4177fabac3c77acd26f491510dd5f94a06570d6c819846581#
>
>
> https://www.bestbuyautoequipment.com/amgo-hydr-mr06-6k-mid-rise-port-scissor-lift-p/MR06.htm
>
>
> https://allautomotiveequipmentsupply.com/products/atlas-lr-06p-portable-low-rise-scissor-auto-lift-6000-lb?variant=14718685282359&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=4&gclid=CjwKCAjw88yxBhBWEiwA7cm6pRwIohns5akFIf0Ghh9gyDFhoF3llf7L61iKmxPBDar6qxmh_i0CzhoCFcwQAvD_BwE
>
> I welcome any comments.
>
> Thanks, Ben
>
>
> Ben Zwissler
> bjzwissler at gmail.com
> 812-343-5533
> Columbus, IN
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky at gmail.com
>
>
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu May  2 07:59:29 2024
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2024 13:59:29 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Scissor Lift
In-Reply-To: <CAMHq6ZwWP6=6f9SgvCMteAcmyMF4Enwj-1hBw_=GNYby4s-ykA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMHq6ZwWP6=6f9SgvCMteAcmyMF4Enwj-1hBw_=GNYby4s-ykA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <490063611.6296929.1714658369873@mail.yahoo.com>

I use the Quickjack 3500.? It works on TR6 and wedges.? It is a bit more fiddly to set up but the two unit can be spaced to accommodate different widths.? And it stores neatly hanging on the wall (I made my own hanger bracket) so it takes up very little space in my cramped garage when not in use.

BL-3500SLX

| 
| 
| 
|  |  |

 |

 |
| 
|  | 
BL-3500SLX

The 3,500-lb. capacity BL-3500SLX car lift is perfect for small-wheelbase vehicles. As the lightest model in our...
 |

 |

 |




Dave 


 

    On Thursday, May 2, 2024 at 08:18:17 AM CDT, Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Hello,
I'm considering a mid- or low-rise scissor lift to make access to interiors, brakes and suspension easier.? I find I avoid interior and dash work because its so low to the ground I struggle to get and stay that low for any length of time.? I already have a two-post lift so access to the underside isn't an issue, but access to the interior is difficult with the arms and post in the way of the door opening.
My concern is whether the popular brands will fit under Triumphs and similar cars.? Does anyone have any experience with these on our cars?? Specifically I'm concerned about the narrower width of our cars and that we can't lift on "pinch" welds like most modern cars.? Some come with arms and posts to select lift points, others come with rubber blocks to allow specific points to be used for lifting.
Here's the type of thing I'm looking at:
https://racetoolsdirect.com/product/tuxedo-mid-rise-scissor-lift/?com_cvv=81c269aab9bc5fc4177fabac3c77acd26f491510dd5f94a06570d6c819846581#
https://www.bestbuyautoequipment.com/amgo-hydr-mr06-6k-mid-rise-port-scissor-lift-p/MR06.htm
https://allautomotiveequipmentsupply.com/products/atlas-lr-06p-portable-low-rise-scissor-auto-lift-6000-lb?variant=14718685282359&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=4&gclid=CjwKCAjw88yxBhBWEiwA7cm6pRwIohns5akFIf0Ghh9gyDFhoF3llf7L61iKmxPBDar6qxmh_i0CzhoCFcwQAvD_BwE
I welcome any comments.
Thanks, Ben

Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com
812-343-5533Columbus, IN
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

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From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Thu May  2 10:14:11 2024
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2024 12:14:11 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Scissor Lift
In-Reply-To: <CAOEriin4ywp86izmD+CAKOFcQ-gniN5qfdk+aLuXa6S=p=T+vA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOEriin4ywp86izmD+CAKOFcQ-gniN5qfdk+aLuXa6S=p=T+vA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0C14F1A2-5090-4B22-BE39-324E6BC7A0DB@snet.net>

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From parkanzky at gmail.com  Thu May  2 10:25:57 2024
From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2024 12:25:57 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Scissor Lift
In-Reply-To: <0C14F1A2-5090-4B22-BE39-324E6BC7A0DB@snet.net>
References: <CAOEriin4ywp86izmD+CAKOFcQ-gniN5qfdk+aLuXa6S=p=T+vA@mail.gmail.com>
 <0C14F1A2-5090-4B22-BE39-324E6BC7A0DB@snet.net>
Message-ID: <CAOErii=kmV4Prsy5LqCe+1uHkNAJi-yF9okz37-aDgCu7pS1sg@mail.gmail.com>

I have the bridge jack and a sliding jack tray for my four post lift.
That's how I did wheels-off work before I added a 2-post lift. I found that
all that crap was always in the way of whatever it was we wanted to work
on. Don't get me wrong. It's 100x better than laying on the concrete, but
it's far from ideal.

On Thu, May 2, 2024 at 12:14?PM Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas at snet.net> wrote:

> Not quite pertinent to the original question, but I use a 4-post lift with
> a bridge jack. Solves most of the issues with wheel and suspension work.
> Also use a non-jack bridge or 2x12 lumber between the ramps to support jack
> stands when needed.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 2, 2024, at 10:40?AM, Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?
> Have you considered a four post lift? I have both a 2 and a 4 post lift
> and they compliment each other very well. The two post allows you to do
> wheels-off work but when you don't need that the four post is WAY
> faster/easier to put a car on with no concern for lifting points and stuff
> and is much more convenient for oil changes and things like that. You'd
> have full access to the sides of the vehicle at any height you'd like with
> a four post lift. As a bonus you can store a car on it when you're not
> using it for something else.
>
> -Paul
>
> On Thu, May 2, 2024 at 9:28?AM Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>>
>> I'm considering a mid- or low-rise scissor lift to make access to
>> interiors, brakes and suspension easier.  I find I avoid interior and dash
>> work because its so low to the ground I struggle to get and stay that low
>> for any length of time.  I already have a two-post lift so access to the
>> underside isn't an issue, but access to the interior is difficult with the
>> arms and post in the way of the door opening.
>>
>> My concern is whether the popular brands will fit under Triumphs and
>> similar cars.  Does anyone have any experience with these on our cars?
>> Specifically I'm concerned about the narrower width of our cars and that we
>> can't lift on "pinch" welds like most modern cars.  Some come with arms and
>> posts to select lift points, others come with rubber blocks to allow
>> specific points to be used for lifting.
>>
>> Here's the type of thing I'm looking at:
>>
>>
>> https://racetoolsdirect.com/product/tuxedo-mid-rise-scissor-lift/?com_cvv=81c269aab9bc5fc4177fabac3c77acd26f491510dd5f94a06570d6c819846581#
>>
>>
>> https://www.bestbuyautoequipment.com/amgo-hydr-mr06-6k-mid-rise-port-scissor-lift-p/MR06.htm
>>
>>
>> https://allautomotiveequipmentsupply.com/products/atlas-lr-06p-portable-low-rise-scissor-auto-lift-6000-lb?variant=14718685282359&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=4&gclid=CjwKCAjw88yxBhBWEiwA7cm6pRwIohns5akFIf0Ghh9gyDFhoF3llf7L61iKmxPBDar6qxmh_i0CzhoCFcwQAvD_BwE
>>
>> I welcome any comments.
>>
>> Thanks, Ben
>>
>>
>> Ben Zwissler
>> bjzwissler at gmail.com
>> 812-343-5533
>> Columbus, IN
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/james.f.juhas at snet.net
>
>
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From 1789alpine at gmail.com  Thu May  2 14:14:48 2024
From: 1789alpine at gmail.com (Jim Stone)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2024 16:14:48 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Scissor Lift
In-Reply-To: <CAOErii=kmV4Prsy5LqCe+1uHkNAJi-yF9okz37-aDgCu7pS1sg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOEriin4ywp86izmD+CAKOFcQ-gniN5qfdk+aLuXa6S=p=T+vA@mail.gmail.com>
 <0C14F1A2-5090-4B22-BE39-324E6BC7A0DB@snet.net>
 <CAOErii=kmV4Prsy5LqCe+1uHkNAJi-yF9okz37-aDgCu7pS1sg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F76FAA4C-C827-4400-AB31-7F7F1B4A9C60@gmail.com>

I don?t have any experience with them, but you might find this recent discussion from the Alpine forum to be worth reading: https://forum.sunbeamalpine.org/index.php?threads/quickjack.31288/#post-238832

> On May 2, 2024, at 12:25?PM, Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> I have the bridge jack and a sliding jack tray for my four post lift. That's how I did wheels-off work before I added a 2-post lift. I found that all that crap was always in the way of whatever it was we wanted to work on. Don't get me wrong. It's 100x better than laying on the concrete, but it's far from ideal.
> 
> On Thu, May 2, 2024 at 12:14?PM Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas at snet.net <mailto:james.f.juhas at snet.net>> wrote:
>> Not quite pertinent to the original question, but I use a 4-post lift with a bridge jack. Solves most of the issues with wheel and suspension work. Also use a non-jack bridge or 2x12 lumber between the ramps to support jack stands when needed. 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On May 2, 2024, at 10:40?AM, Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky at gmail.com <mailto:parkanzky at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> ?
>>> Have you considered a four post lift? I have both a 2 and a 4 post lift and they compliment each other very well. The two post allows you to do wheels-off work but when you don't need that the four post is WAY faster/easier to put a car on with no concern for lifting points and stuff and is much more convenient for oil changes and things like that. You'd have full access to the sides of the vehicle at any height you'd like with a four post lift. As a bonus you can store a car on it when you're not using it for something else.
>>> 
>>> -Paul
>>> 
>>> On Thu, May 2, 2024 at 9:28?AM Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler at gmail.com <mailto:bjzwissler at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>>> Hello,
>>>> 
>>>> I'm considering a mid- or low-rise scissor lift to make access to interiors, brakes and suspension easier.  I find I avoid interior and dash work because its so low to the ground I struggle to get and stay that low for any length of time.  I already have a two-post lift so access to the underside isn't an issue, but access to the interior is difficult with the arms and post in the way of the door opening.
>>>> 
>>>> My concern is whether the popular brands will fit under Triumphs and similar cars.  Does anyone have any experience with these on our cars?  Specifically I'm concerned about the narrower width of our cars and that we can't lift on "pinch" welds like most modern cars.  Some come with arms and posts to select lift points, others come with rubber blocks to allow specific points to be used for lifting.
>>>> 
>>>> Here's the type of thing I'm looking at:
>>>> 
>>>> https://racetoolsdirect.com/product/tuxedo-mid-rise-scissor-lift/?com_cvv=81c269aab9bc5fc4177fabac3c77acd26f491510dd5f94a06570d6c819846581#
>>>> 
>>>> https://www.bestbuyautoequipment.com/amgo-hydr-mr06-6k-mid-rise-port-scissor-lift-p/MR06.htm
>>>> 
>>>> https://allautomotiveequipmentsupply.com/products/atlas-lr-06p-portable-low-rise-scissor-auto-lift-6000-lb?variant=14718685282359&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=4&gclid=CjwKCAjw88yxBhBWEiwA7cm6pRwIohns5akFIf0Ghh9gyDFhoF3llf7L61iKmxPBDar6qxmh_i0CzhoCFcwQAvD_BwE
>>>> 
>>>> I welcome any comments.
>>>> 
>>>> Thanks, Ben
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Ben Zwissler
>>>> bjzwissler at gmail.com <mailto:bjzwissler at gmail.com>
>>>> 812-343-5533
>>>> Columbus, IN
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> 
>>>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>> 
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky at gmail.com
>>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> 
>>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/james.f.juhas at snet.net
>>> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789alpine at gmail.com
> 

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From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Thu May  2 17:42:49 2024
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2024 18:42:49 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Scissor Lift
In-Reply-To: <CAOErii=kmV4Prsy5LqCe+1uHkNAJi-yF9okz37-aDgCu7pS1sg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOErii=kmV4Prsy5LqCe+1uHkNAJi-yF9okz37-aDgCu7pS1sg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C13F2392-65BA-4418-B8B1-DF9A691A0580@gmail.com>



> On May 2, 2024, at 13:08, Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> %ki

Outside of muffler I was on my way alignment shops, four post lifts are pretty awful for working on cars.  They are better than the ground, and the ones that can move are great for flexibility, and one former employer had one we pushed outside in good weather. 

A couple shops I used to work in had 1 post in ground lifts. They are pretty great for general service stuff, but if you need to work on exhaust or a transmission not so much. For body work and doors,  they?re about ideal.  It?s too bad the economics of in-ground lifts is so much 

From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Thu May  2 17:46:14 2024
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2024 18:46:14 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Scissor Lift
In-Reply-To: <C13F2392-65BA-4418-B8B1-DF9A691A0580@gmail.com>
References: <C13F2392-65BA-4418-B8B1-DF9A691A0580@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <80B438DA-D6BF-4C6F-BBA5-87CBF114A841@gmail.com>

Sorry this got sent before I finished tapping it in. 

In ground lifts are too expensive relative to above ground, so it?s pretty much killed the whole segment.  Too bad,  they?re just so nice. 

> On May 2, 2024, at 18:43, David Scheidt <dmscheidt at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> 
>> On May 2, 2024, at 13:08, Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?
>> %ki
> 
> Outside of muffler I was on my way alignment shops, four post lifts are pretty awful for working on cars.  They are better than the ground, and the ones that can move are great for flexibility, and one former employer had one we pushed outside in good weather.
> 
> A couple shops I used to work in had 1 post in ground lifts. They are pretty great for general service stuff, but if you need to work on exhaust or a transmission not so much. For body work and doors,  they?re about ideal.  It?s too bad the economics of in-ground lifts is so much

From dirtbeard at gmail.com  Fri May  3 07:04:32 2024
From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2024 06:04:32 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Scissor Lift
In-Reply-To: <490063611.6296929.1714658369873@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CAMHq6ZwWP6=6f9SgvCMteAcmyMF4Enwj-1hBw_=GNYby4s-ykA@mail.gmail.com>
 <490063611.6296929.1714658369873@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAG1pxgbpmmbYDH1kJcf7pazh_txQhuhQOt_7HPh8opzEaVZZJQ@mail.gmail.com>

I do not have a scissors jack, but I do like the compactness and
"storability" of them in preserving shop floor space.

As others have said, if you do have sufficient floor space and ceiling
height to permit a four-post lift, it would do the same as a scissors jack
for interior work, provide for a great undercarriage work space, and also
give you the ability to store a car above another car, greatly increasing
your effective garage size.

I have two Backyard Buddy four-post lifts, one with an open platform, a
rolling jack tray, and two air jacks for undercarriage work, and the second
with a solid steel platform that is better for storing narrow cars like my
MG TF and Lotus Eleven.

Most four-post lifts are a bit of a compromise as one would want as much
open space underneath as possible to work on the car, but the narrow tracks
of old British cars makes it a careful proposition driving them onto the
lift to avoid dropping a wheel off to the inside of the rail.

Four post lifts also are much better for mid-engine cars like my Lotus
Elise or 911s, models that have been known to drop off the rear of two
post stands due to rearward weight distribution challenges. These cars also
are very particular about jack point locations (closed aluminum sheet
undercarriage), and whether a two post lift or a scissors jack would reach
the limited jacking points is always a question.

I find that the four post lift with a rolling jack tray and air jacks is
great for wheel and suspension work as well. I actually even use it to do
tire rotations as it greatly reduces the bending and lifting. I also was
able to buy two more cars and keep them stored in my garage... ;-)

Sorry for the long, somewhat off-track response to your scissors jack
question



On Thu, May 2, 2024 at 11:45?PM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:

> I use the Quickjack 3500.  It works on TR6 and wedges.  It is a bit more
> fiddly to set up but the two unit can be spaced to accommodate different
> widths.  And it stores neatly hanging on the wall (I made my own hanger
> bracket) so it takes up very little space in my cramped garage when not in
> use.
>
> BL-3500SLX <https://www.quickjack.com/car-lifts/3500slx/>
>
> BL-3500SLX
>
> The 3,500-lb. capacity BL-3500SLX car lift is perfect for small-wheelbase
> vehicles. As the lightest model in our...
> <https://www.quickjack.com/car-lifts/3500slx/>
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, May 2, 2024 at 08:18:17 AM CDT, Benjamin Zwissler <
> bjzwissler at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hello,
>
> I'm considering a mid- or low-rise scissor lift to make access to
> interiors, brakes and suspension easier.  I find I avoid interior and dash
> work because its so low to the ground I struggle to get and stay that low
> for any length of time.  I already have a two-post lift so access to the
> underside isn't an issue, but access to the interior is difficult with the
> arms and post in the way of the door opening.
>
> My concern is whether the popular brands will fit under Triumphs and
> similar cars.  Does anyone have any experience with these on our cars?
> Specifically I'm concerned about the narrower width of our cars and that we
> can't lift on "pinch" welds like most modern cars.  Some come with arms and
> posts to select lift points, others come with rubber blocks to allow
> specific points to be used for lifting.
>
> Here's the type of thing I'm looking at:
>
>
> https://racetoolsdirect.com/product/tuxedo-mid-rise-scissor-lift/?com_cvv=81c269aab9bc5fc4177fabac3c77acd26f491510dd5f94a06570d6c819846581#
>
>
> https://www.bestbuyautoequipment.com/amgo-hydr-mr06-6k-mid-rise-port-scissor-lift-p/MR06.htm
>
>
> https://allautomotiveequipmentsupply.com/products/atlas-lr-06p-portable-low-rise-scissor-auto-lift-6000-lb?variant=14718685282359&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=4&gclid=CjwKCAjw88yxBhBWEiwA7cm6pRwIohns5akFIf0Ghh9gyDFhoF3llf7L61iKmxPBDar6qxmh_i0CzhoCFcwQAvD_BwE
>
> I welcome any comments.
>
> Thanks, Ben
>
>
> Ben Zwissler
> bjzwissler at gmail.com
> 812-343-5533
> Columbus, IN
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dave1massey at cs.com
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at live.com
>
>
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From eric at megageek.com  Fri May  3 09:10:02 2024
From: eric at megageek.com (Moose)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2024 11:10:02 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] BT headphones
Message-ID: <OF651316DF.834CA219-ON85258B12.0052C13F-85258B12.00535166@mail.megageek.com>

Braintrust-

I am looking for a pair of heading protection that can link to a cell 
phone.

Here is what I am looking for.  If I am weed wacking or running a mower, I 
want something to protect what is left of my hearing, HOWEVER, will ring 
if I get a phone call.

Note, I don't need to be able to answer or talk on the phone with them on, 
just something that will let me know if I'm getting a phone call.  Playing 
music from my phone isn't needed, but I guess it would be possible once 
connected.

The problem is that every headphone I see is made to play music, I just 
want to make sure it will ring if I get a call.  None of the ads mention 
if they can or not.

I don't care if they are muff types or buds (I would prefer buds if they 
work as good as muffs.)

Active noise canceling is highly preferred.

So, does anyone have any suggestions?  Any thing you are happy with?

Note, I'll pay whatever price for a good set.

Thanks.

Moose
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From fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net  Fri May  3 09:35:00 2024
From: fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net (Thomas FitzGibbon)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2024 11:35:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] BT headphones
In-Reply-To: <OF651316DF.834CA219-ON85258B12.0052C13F-85258B12.00535166@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF651316DF.834CA219-ON85258B12.0052C13F-85258B12.00535166@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <127359479.621697.1714750500925@connect.xfinity.com>

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From bk13 at earthlink.net  Fri May  3 09:36:00 2024
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Fri, 03 May 2024 15:36:00 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] BT headphones
Message-ID: <0bfceb9c-e742-9ceb-4c2e-b3d0962c2244@earthlink.net>

I've heard good things about Elgin products, but have yet to order.  Looking to order something myself as well.

https://elginusa.com/collections/bluetooth-hearing-protection

Brian
-----Original Message-----
From: Moose <eric at megageek.com>
Sent: May 3, 2024 8:19 AM
To: <Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] BT headphones

Braintrust- 

I am looking for a pair of heading protection that can link to a cell phone. 

Here is what I am looking for.  If I am weed wacking or running a mower, I want something to protect what is left of my hearing, HOWEVER, will ring if I get a phone call. 

Note, I don't need to be able to answer or talk on the phone with them on, just something that will let me know if I'm getting a phone call.  Playing music from my phone isn't needed, but I guess it would be possible once connected. 

The problem is that every headphone I see is made to play music, I just want to make sure it will ring if I get a call.  None of the ads mention if they can or not. 

I don't care if they are muff types or buds (I would prefer buds if they work as good as muffs.) 

Active noise canceling is highly preferred. 

So, does anyone have any suggestions?  Any thing you are happy with? 

Note, I'll pay whatever price for a good set. 

Thanks. 

Moose 

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From fishplate at gmail.com  Fri May  3 09:43:28 2024
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2024 11:43:28 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] BT headphones
In-Reply-To: <OF651316DF.834CA219-ON85258B12.0052C13F-85258B12.00535166@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF651316DF.834CA219-ON85258B12.0052C13F-85258B12.00535166@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CO7bYDA9-cXz=fcjWSP4HoOfkdap40VsKsXX4kCSJR3RQ@mail.gmail.com>

Not exactly what you are asking about, but I've had these for 5+ years.
https://www.amazon.com/Otium-Headphones-Bluetooth-Waterproof-Cancelling/dp/B0734S1YBS/ref=sr_1_4

Just wear some good-quality earmuffs over them.  They play music, and
interrupt it for notifications and phone calls.

-- Jeff

On Fri, May 3, 2024 at 11:22?AM Moose <eric at megageek.com> wrote:

> Braintrust-
>
> I am looking for a pair of heading protection that can link to a cell
> phone.
>
> Here is what I am looking for.  If I am weed wacking or running a mower, I
> want something to protect what is left of my hearing, HOWEVER, will ring if
> I get a phone call.
>
> Note, I don't need to be able to answer or talk on the phone with them on,
> just something that will let me know if I'm getting a phone call.  Playing
> music from my phone isn't needed, but I guess it would be possible once
> connected.
>
> The problem is that every headphone I see is made to play music, I just
> want to make sure it will ring if I get a call.  None of the ads mention if
> they can or not.
>
> I don't care if they are muff types or buds (I would prefer buds if they
> work as good as muffs.)
>
> Active noise canceling is highly preferred.
>
> So, does anyone have any suggestions?  Any thing you are happy with?
>
> Note, I'll pay whatever price for a good set.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Moose
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate at gmail.com
>
>
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Fri May  3 09:44:48 2024
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2024 15:44:48 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Scissor Lift
In-Reply-To: <CAG1pxgbpmmbYDH1kJcf7pazh_txQhuhQOt_7HPh8opzEaVZZJQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMHq6ZwWP6=6f9SgvCMteAcmyMF4Enwj-1hBw_=GNYby4s-ykA@mail.gmail.com>
 <490063611.6296929.1714658369873@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAG1pxgbpmmbYDH1kJcf7pazh_txQhuhQOt_7HPh8opzEaVZZJQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1951901502.6757797.1714751088847@mail.yahoo.com>

If I had room (and ceiling height) I'd have a four-post lift, too.? I'm not too old to wiggle underneath a car but I'm getting close!

Dave 


 

    On Friday, May 3, 2024 at 08:04:46 AM CDT, old dirtbeard <dirtbeard at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 I do not have a scissors?jack, but I do like the compactness and "storability" of them in preserving shop floor space.?
As others have said, if you do have sufficient floor space and ceiling height?to permit a four-post lift, it would do the same as a scissors jack for interior?work, provide for a great undercarriage work space, and also give you the ability to store a car above another car, greatly increasing your effective garage size.
I have two Backyard Buddy four-post?lifts, one with an open platform, a rolling jack tray, and two air jacks for undercarriage work, and the second with a solid steel platform that is better for storing narrow cars like my MG TF and Lotus Eleven.?
Most four-post lifts are a bit of a compromise as one would want as much open space underneath as possible to work on the car, but the narrow tracks of old British cars makes it a careful proposition?driving them onto the lift to avoid dropping a wheel off to the inside of the rail.?
Four post?lifts also are much better for mid-engine cars like my Lotus Elise or 911s, models?that have been known to drop off the rear of two post?stands due to rearward weight distribution challenges. These cars also are very particular about jack point locations (closed aluminum sheet undercarriage), and whether a two post lift or a scissors jack would reach the limited jacking points is always a question.
I find that the four post lift with a rolling jack tray and air jacks is great for wheel and suspension work as well. I actually even use it to do tire rotations as it greatly reduces the bending and lifting. I also was able to buy two more cars and keep them stored in my garage... ;-)?
Sorry for the long, somewhat off-track response to your scissors jack question


On Thu, May 2, 2024 at 11:45?PM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:

I use the Quickjack 3500.? It works on TR6 and wedges.? It is a bit more fiddly to set up but the two unit can be spaced to accommodate different widths.? And it stores neatly hanging on the wall (I made my own hanger bracket) so it takes up very little space in my cramped garage when not in use.

BL-3500SLX

| 
| 
| 
|  |  |

 |

 |
| 
|  | 
BL-3500SLX

The 3,500-lb. capacity BL-3500SLX car lift is perfect for small-wheelbase vehicles. As the lightest model in our...
 |

 |

 |




Dave 


 

    On Thursday, May 2, 2024 at 08:18:17 AM CDT, Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Hello,
I'm considering a mid- or low-rise scissor lift to make access to interiors, brakes and suspension easier.? I find I avoid interior and dash work because its so low to the ground I struggle to get and stay that low for any length of time.? I already have a two-post lift so access to the underside isn't an issue, but access to the interior is difficult with the arms and post in the way of the door opening.
My concern is whether the popular brands will fit under Triumphs and similar cars.? Does anyone have any experience with these on our cars?? Specifically I'm concerned about the narrower width of our cars and that we can't lift on "pinch" welds like most modern cars.? Some come with arms and posts to select lift points, others come with rubber blocks to allow specific points to be used for lifting.
Here's the type of thing I'm looking at:
https://racetoolsdirect.com/product/tuxedo-mid-rise-scissor-lift/?com_cvv=81c269aab9bc5fc4177fabac3c77acd26f491510dd5f94a06570d6c819846581#
https://www.bestbuyautoequipment.com/amgo-hydr-mr06-6k-mid-rise-port-scissor-lift-p/MR06.htm
https://allautomotiveequipmentsupply.com/products/atlas-lr-06p-portable-low-rise-scissor-auto-lift-6000-lb?variant=14718685282359&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=4&gclid=CjwKCAjw88yxBhBWEiwA7cm6pRwIohns5akFIf0Ghh9gyDFhoF3llf7L61iKmxPBDar6qxmh_i0CzhoCFcwQAvD_BwE
I welcome any comments.
Thanks, Ben

Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com
812-343-5533Columbus, IN
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

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  _______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

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From jdinnis at gmail.com  Fri May  3 09:48:03 2024
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2024 10:48:03 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] BT headphones
In-Reply-To: <OF651316DF.834CA219-ON85258B12.0052C13F-85258B12.00535166@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF651316DF.834CA219-ON85258B12.0052C13F-85258B12.00535166@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <CANuE7YBF0cCKaL-cnhbLte01LBt_BCF82bGEB-n5dFmB8kXvCw@mail.gmail.com>

I have been using a set of IsoTunes.  They do allow you to hear the phone
ring and answer a call.  I am using the "Pro" wired version.  They have all
the product manuals on their web site so you can read up on how this works
in each version.

On Fri, May 3, 2024 at 10:23?AM Moose <eric at megageek.com> wrote:

> Braintrust-
>
> I am looking for a pair of heading protection that can link to a cell
> phone.
>
> Here is what I am looking for.  If I am weed wacking or running a mower, I
> want something to protect what is left of my hearing, HOWEVER, will ring if
> I get a phone call.
>
> Note, I don't need to be able to answer or talk on the phone with them on,
> just something that will let me know if I'm getting a phone call.  Playing
> music from my phone isn't needed, but I guess it would be possible once
> connected.
>
> The problem is that every headphone I see is made to play music, I just
> want to make sure it will ring if I get a call.  None of the ads mention if
> they can or not.
>
> I don't care if they are muff types or buds (I would prefer buds if they
> work as good as muffs.)
>
> Active noise canceling is highly preferred.
>
> So, does anyone have any suggestions?  Any thing you are happy with?
>
> Note, I'll pay whatever price for a good set.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Moose
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================
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From maynerdfamily at msn.com  Fri May  3 09:58:00 2024
From: maynerdfamily at msn.com (Brian and Wendy Warrick)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2024 15:58:00 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] BT headphones
In-Reply-To: <127359479.621697.1714750500925@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <OF651316DF.834CA219-ON85258B12.0052C13F-85258B12.00535166@mail.megageek.com>
 <127359479.621697.1714750500925@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <BN8PR05MB6644A84390F8F24B6731245ABB1F2@BN8PR05MB6644.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>

I second Tom on the Axil GS Extreme 2.0. Same experience. I use them for shooting, no experience with sustained noise like mowing the lawn.

Brian
Nampa, ID
________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Thomas FitzGibbon <fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, May 3, 2024 9:35 AM
To: Moose <eric at megageek.com>; Shop-talk at autox.team.net <Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] BT headphones

Moose,

I use these for shooting and really like them.  GS Extreme 2.0 Earbuds for Shooting ? AXIL (goaxil.com)<https://goaxil.com/products/gx-extreme>  They connect to my phone via Bluetooth, so I get all of the audio capability of the phone delivered to them, including music, if you want, and phone ringing and text notifications.  These also amplify sound when not cancelling noise so you can hear what's going on around you without taking them out.  The one caveat I will point out is while they are really good at quickly reacting to periodic loud noises, like gunshots, I have never used them to reduce stained noise and I don't know how they would handle that.  I have an old school pair of 3M muffs for sustained noise like yard work that work well, but mine are older and do not connect to my phone.

Tom
On 05/03/2024 11:10 AM EDT Moose <eric at megageek.com> wrote:


Braintrust-

I am looking for a pair of heading protection that can link to a cell phone.

Here is what I am looking for.  If I am weed wacking or running a mower, I want something to protect what is left of my hearing, HOWEVER, will ring if I get a phone call.

Note, I don't need to be able to answer or talk on the phone with them on, just something that will let me know if I'm getting a phone call.  Playing music from my phone isn't needed, but I guess it would be possible once connected.

The problem is that every headphone I see is made to play music, I just want to make sure it will ring if I get a call.  None of the ads mention if they can or not.

I don't care if they are muff types or buds (I would prefer buds if they work as good as muffs.)

Active noise canceling is highly preferred.

So, does anyone have any suggestions?  Any thing you are happy with?

Note, I'll pay whatever price for a good set.

Thanks.

Moose
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net

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From rrochlin at comcast.net  Fri May  3 10:20:23 2024
From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Robert Rochlin)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2024 12:20:23 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] BT headphones
In-Reply-To: <0bfceb9c-e742-9ceb-4c2e-b3d0962c2244@earthlink.net>
References: <0bfceb9c-e742-9ceb-4c2e-b3d0962c2244@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <10C26C57-7C35-4526-A41B-0C66C7F542EB@comcast.net>

I?ve used iPod pros for years when mowing, and snow blowing.  They allow me to answer my iPhone and listen to podcasts or music while I?m working.  If you choose no input  background sound is really muffled.
  Highly recommend.
 Bob
Sent from my iPhone

> On May 3, 2024, at 12:02?PM, Brian Kemp <bk13 at earthlink.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> I've heard good things about Elgin products, but have yet to order.  Looking to order something myself as well.
>  
> https://elginusa.com/collections/bluetooth-hearing-protection
>  
> Brian
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Moose <eric at megageek.com>
> Sent: May 3, 2024 8:19 AM
> To: <Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Shop-talk] BT headphones
> 
>  
> Braintrust-
> 
> I am looking for a pair of heading protection that can link to a cell phone.
> 
> Here is what I am looking for.  If I am weed wacking or running a mower, I want something to protect what is left of my hearing, HOWEVER, will ring if I get a phone call.
> 
> Note, I don't need to be able to answer or talk on the phone with them on, just something that will let me know if I'm getting a phone call.  Playing music from my phone isn't needed, but I guess it would be possible once connected.
> 
> The problem is that every headphone I see is made to play music, I just want to make sure it will ring if I get a call.  None of the ads mention if they can or not.
> 
> I don't care if they are muff types or buds (I would prefer buds if they work as good as muffs.)
> 
> Active noise canceling is highly preferred.
> 
> So, does anyone have any suggestions?  Any thing you are happy with?
> 
> Note, I'll pay whatever price for a good set.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Moose
>  
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rrochlin at comcast.net
> 
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From eric at megageek.com  Fri May  3 10:45:16 2024
From: eric at megageek.com (Moose)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2024 12:45:16 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] BT headphones
In-Reply-To: <CAO8Q7CO7bYDA9-cXz=fcjWSP4HoOfkdap40VsKsXX4kCSJR3RQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <OF651316DF.834CA219-ON85258B12.0052C13F-85258B12.00535166@mail.megageek.com>
 <CAO8Q7CO7bYDA9-cXz=fcjWSP4HoOfkdap40VsKsXX4kCSJR3RQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <OF2DDFB2CE.EFC6B5C1-ON85258B12.005BE465-85258B12.005C096B@mail.megageek.com>

Jeff,

Funny thing, these are the ones I use when I run.  They connect to my 
Garmin watch (but I don't run with a phone.)  I never thought about that.

Hum, I'll have to try this first.

Thanks everyone for the other suggestions.

Moose



From:   Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at gmail.com>
To:     Moose <eric at megageek.com>, "shop-talk at autox.team.net" 
<Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Date:   05/03/2024 11:43
Subject:        Re: [Shop-talk] BT headphones



Not exactly what you are asking about, but I've had these for 5+ years.  
https://www.amazon.com/Otium-Headphones-Bluetooth-Waterproof-Cancelling/dp/B0734S1YBS/ref=sr_1_4

Just wear some good-quality earmuffs over them.  They play music, and 
interrupt it for notifications and phone calls.   

-- Jeff

On Fri, May 3, 2024 at 11:22?AM Moose <eric at megageek.com> wrote:
Braintrust- 

I am looking for a pair of heading protection that can link to a cell 
phone. 

Here is what I am looking for.  If I am weed wacking or running a mower, I 
want something to protect what is left of my hearing, HOWEVER, will ring 
if I get a phone call. 

Note, I don't need to be able to answer or talk on the phone with them on, 
just something that will let me know if I'm getting a phone call.  Playing 
music from my phone isn't needed, but I guess it would be possible once 
connected. 

The problem is that every headphone I see is made to play music, I just 
want to make sure it will ring if I get a call.  None of the ads mention 
if they can or not. 

I don't care if they are muff types or buds (I would prefer buds if they 
work as good as muffs.) 

Active noise canceling is highly preferred. 

So, does anyone have any suggestions?  Any thing you are happy with? 

Note, I'll pay whatever price for a good set. 

Thanks. 

Moose 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk 
http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate at gmail.com


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From mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org  Fri May  3 11:15:28 2024
From: mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org (Jimmie Mayfield)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2024 13:15:28 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] BT headphones
In-Reply-To: <OF651316DF.834CA219-ON85258B12.0052C13F-85258B12.00535166@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF651316DF.834CA219-ON85258B12.0052C13F-85258B12.00535166@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <88801605-c0dd-47ce-8e8f-082433514213@sackheads.org>

A couple recommendations in no particular order:

1. I have a pair of Etymotic ER4P earphones.? They're wired but you can 
plug them into a $15 BT dongle that you can pair to your phone, answer 
calls, etc.? They don't have active noise cancelling.? They rely on deep 
insertion into your ear canal and some people don't like that.? With 
memory foam tips, they'll give you a level of isolation that I'd 
categorize as "dangerous".? You simply won't hear things around you.? 
Even my lawn mower is reduced to a distant hum.? Definitely don't wear 
these while jogging or riding a bicycle.

2. I have a pair of Sony WF-1000xm4 BT earphones.? They pair fine with 
my Android phone.? Active noise-cancellation but they also have an 
"ambient sound" mode where they simply replay the sounds picked up by 
the mic so you can hear conversations around you without removing them.? 
With noise-cancellation enabled, I'd still rate them a notch below the 
Etymotics in terms of isolation but they're not bad.? I use these when 
mowing the lawn.? Main complaint is the battery in my left earbud lasts 
about an hour less than the right earbud and, judging from YouTube 
videos, replacing a battery isn't trivial.

J



From jdinnis at gmail.com  Fri May  3 13:07:35 2024
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2024 14:07:35 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] BT headphones
In-Reply-To: <10C26C57-7C35-4526-A41B-0C66C7F542EB@comcast.net>
References: <0bfceb9c-e742-9ceb-4c2e-b3d0962c2244@earthlink.net>
 <10C26C57-7C35-4526-A41B-0C66C7F542EB@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CANuE7YC_mNMX63qz61QiQ0qRB3GTvJRRM0BqOj_bATvBksUt9Q@mail.gmail.com>

For actual hearing protection, I do NOT recommend Airpods.  They do not
have any NRR rating and are not specifically for hearing protection.  I
tend to think of NRR 27 as the minimum for any outdoor power equipment
operation.

On Fri, May 3, 2024 at 1:41?PM Robert Rochlin <rrochlin at comcast.net> wrote:

> I?ve used iPod pros for years when mowing, and snow blowing.  They allow
> me to answer my iPhone and listen to podcasts or music while I?m working.
> If you choose no input  background sound is really muffled.
>   Highly recommend.
>  Bob
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 3, 2024, at 12:02?PM, Brian Kemp <bk13 at earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> ?
>
> I've heard good things about Elgin products, but have yet to order.
> Looking to order something myself as well.
>
>
>
> https://elginusa.com/collections/bluetooth-hearing-protection
>
>
>
> Brian
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Moose <eric at megageek.com>
> Sent: May 3, 2024 8:19 AM
> To: <Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Shop-talk] BT headphones
>
>
> Braintrust-
>
> I am looking for a pair of heading protection that can link to a cell
> phone.
>
> Here is what I am looking for.  If I am weed wacking or running a mower, I
> want something to protect what is left of my hearing, HOWEVER, will ring if
> I get a phone call.
>
> Note, I don't need to be able to answer or talk on the phone with them on,
> just something that will let me know if I'm getting a phone call.  Playing
> music from my phone isn't needed, but I guess it would be possible once
> connected.
>
> The problem is that every headphone I see is made to play music, I just
> want to make sure it will ring if I get a call.  None of the ads mention if
> they can or not.
>
> I don't care if they are muff types or buds (I would prefer buds if they
> work as good as muffs.)
>
> Active noise canceling is highly preferred.
>
> So, does anyone have any suggestions?  Any thing you are happy with?
>
> Note, I'll pay whatever price for a good set.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Moose
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rrochlin at comcast.net
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================
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From markmiller at threeboysfarm.com  Sat May  4 00:32:01 2024
From: markmiller at threeboysfarm.com (Mark Miller)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2024 23:32:01 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] BT headphones
In-Reply-To: <mailman.17060.1714751115.23356.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.17060.1714751115.23356.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <06149b6f-002c-411b-a44b-3b663e601770@threeboysfarm.com>

I have a pair of 3M worktunes connect. About $50 at Amazon 
(https://a.co/d/bRWzLyF).? They are pretty great.? I can listen to music 
or podcasts, or not if you don't want to, and they interrupt when there 
is a call. Can press a button on the muff to answer the call and then 
again to end it.? All works as it should, and they work for 2 or 3 10 
hour days before needing to recharge.

Only issue is that after a full day of wearing them with safety glasses 
my ears feel the pressure from the glasses.

Regards,

Mark Miller   707-490-5834
markmiller at threeboysfarm.com

On 5/3/2024 8:45 AM, shop-talk-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> From: Moose <eric at megageek.com>
> To: Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Shop-talk] BT headphones
> Message-ID:
> 	<OF651316DF.834CA219-ON85258B12.0052C13F-85258B12.00535166 at mail.megageek.com>
> 	
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Braintrust-
>
> I am looking for a pair of heading protection that can link to a cell
> phone.
>
> Here is what I am looking for.  If I am weed wacking or running a mower, I
> want something to protect what is left of my hearing, HOWEVER, will ring
> if I get a phone call.
>
> Note, I don't need to be able to answer or talk on the phone with them on,
> just something that will let me know if I'm getting a phone call.  Playing
> music from my phone isn't needed, but I guess it would be possible once
> connected.
>
> The problem is that every headphone I see is made to play music, I just
> want to make sure it will ring if I get a call.  None of the ads mention
> if they can or not.
>
> I don't care if they are muff types or buds (I would prefer buds if they
> work as good as muffs.)
>
> Active noise canceling is highly preferred.
>

From fishplate at gmail.com  Mon May  6 12:39:32 2024
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2024 14:39:32 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] [TR] Scissor Lift
In-Reply-To: <0178B03E-1363-4EB3-B57C-D995941C3F5F@att.net>
References: <CAMHq6ZwWP6=6f9SgvCMteAcmyMF4Enwj-1hBw_=GNYby4s-ykA@mail.gmail.com>
 <d830cb992b4e47f88d0fe8c79d3cbb2c@ranteer.com>
 <0178B03E-1363-4EB3-B57C-D995941C3F5F@att.net>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CN5R9c3RfC6Yhw47S0EnrKuzJnmpGSGwrVxSLyBECAfSA@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, May 5, 2024 at 7:53?PM Greg Schuett <tr4boy at att.net> wrote:

> Hi,  Ben,
>
> My quick jack ( https://www.quickjack.com/?gad_source=1) has worked very
> well for me and my TR-4. I have the 5000 model.
>

Hi Greg,

I was looking at these today, as my local big box home store (Lowe's) has
them on sale for an attractive price, plus I get an additional 5% off.

 I note that you have placed it inboard of the tires - I had given up on
the 5000 model because it won't fit at the jacking points.  Do you find the
stability of the raised car to be questionable with the jacks closer to the
center?

I also have a Spitfire,and the same problem appears in spades.  I'm not
sure if even the 3500 would fit the jacking points on that car.

-- Jeff
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Mon May  6 14:00:24 2024
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2024 20:00:24 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Shop-talk] [TR] Scissor Lift
In-Reply-To: <CAO8Q7CN5R9c3RfC6Yhw47S0EnrKuzJnmpGSGwrVxSLyBECAfSA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMHq6ZwWP6=6f9SgvCMteAcmyMF4Enwj-1hBw_=GNYby4s-ykA@mail.gmail.com>
 <d830cb992b4e47f88d0fe8c79d3cbb2c@ranteer.com>
 <0178B03E-1363-4EB3-B57C-D995941C3F5F@att.net>
 <CAO8Q7CN5R9c3RfC6Yhw47S0EnrKuzJnmpGSGwrVxSLyBECAfSA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1318664388.7654675.1715025624422@mail.yahoo.com>

I have the 3500 model and it fits between the wheels on a TR6.? (I measured before ordering.)? I don't know if the spitfire has a shorter wheelbase but if it does you might have issues here as it just barely fits within the TR6 wheelbase.? 

Dave 


 

    On Monday, May 6, 2024 at 02:06:09 PM CDT, Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 

On Sun, May 5, 2024 at 7:53?PM Greg Schuett <tr4boy at att.net> wrote:

Hi, ?Ben,
My quick jack (?https://www.quickjack.com/?gad_source=1)?has worked very well for me and my TR-4. I have the 5000 model.

Hi Greg,
I was looking at these today, as my local big box home store (Lowe's) has them on sale for an attractive price, plus I get an additional 5% off.
?I note that you have placed it inboard of the tires - I had given up on the 5000 model because it won't fit at the jacking points.? Do you find the stability of the raised car to be questionable with the jacks closer to the center?

I also have a Spitfire,and the same problem appears in spades.? I'm not sure if even the 3500 would fit the?jacking points on that car.

-- Jeff_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dave1massey at cs.com

  
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From rande90 at gmail.com  Mon May  6 14:07:44 2024
From: rande90 at gmail.com (RandE)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2024 15:07:44 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] [TR] Scissor LiftI
In-Reply-To: <CAO8Q7CN5R9c3RfC6Yhw47S0EnrKuzJnmpGSGwrVxSLyBECAfSA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMHq6ZwWP6=6f9SgvCMteAcmyMF4Enwj-1hBw_=GNYby4s-ykA@mail.gmail.com>
 <d830cb992b4e47f88d0fe8c79d3cbb2c@ranteer.com>
 <0178B03E-1363-4EB3-B57C-D995941C3F5F@att.net>
 <CAO8Q7CN5R9c3RfC6Yhw47S0EnrKuzJnmpGSGwrVxSLyBECAfSA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAAWW_U3EWvW2CwJkSemODph75PqjcENjxPBH8Ov5+YTJ91kj2w@mail.gmail.com>

I also see these listed from Home Depot occasionally.

On Mon, May 6, 2024 at 2:15 PM Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at gmail.com> wrote:

>
>
> On Sun, May 5, 2024 at 7:53?PM Greg Schuett <tr4boy at att.net> wrote:
>
>> Hi,  Ben,
>>
>> My quick jack ( https://www.quickjack.com/?gad_source=1) has worked very
>> well for me and my TR-4. I have the 5000 model.
>>
>
> Hi Greg,
>
> I was looking at these today, as my local big box home store (Lowe's) has
> them on sale for an attractive price, plus I get an additional 5% off.
>
>  I note that you have placed it inboard of the tires - I had given up on
> the 5000 model because it won't fit at the jacking points.  Do you find the
> stability of the raised car to be questionable with the jacks closer to the
> center?
>
> I also have a Spitfire,and the same problem appears in spades.  I'm not
> sure if even the 3500 would fit the jacking points on that car.
>
> -- Jeff
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rande at pobox.com
>
>
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From fishplate at gmail.com  Mon May  6 18:19:56 2024
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2024 20:19:56 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] [TR] Scissor Lift
In-Reply-To: <1318664388.7654675.1715025624422@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CAMHq6ZwWP6=6f9SgvCMteAcmyMF4Enwj-1hBw_=GNYby4s-ykA@mail.gmail.com>
 <d830cb992b4e47f88d0fe8c79d3cbb2c@ranteer.com>
 <0178B03E-1363-4EB3-B57C-D995941C3F5F@att.net>
 <CAO8Q7CN5R9c3RfC6Yhw47S0EnrKuzJnmpGSGwrVxSLyBECAfSA@mail.gmail.com>
 <1318664388.7654675.1715025624422@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CPhaREioP-bS_hj4v_xa3=_H5kME7Ui=T=Y4oj5E2bCrQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Mon, May 6, 2024 at 4:00?PM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:

> I have the 3500 model and it fits between the wheels on a TR6.  (I
> measured before ordering.)  I don't know if the spitfire has a shorter
> wheelbase but if it does you might have issues here as it just barely fits
> within the TR6 wheelbase.
>
> "Wheel Spread" on the TR6 is 68" and 62" on the Spitfire.
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon May  6 22:38:51 2024
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2024 21:38:51 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] [TR] Scissor Lift
In-Reply-To: <CAO8Q7CPhaREioP-bS_hj4v_xa3=_H5kME7Ui=T=Y4oj5E2bCrQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMHq6ZwWP6=6f9SgvCMteAcmyMF4Enwj-1hBw_=GNYby4s-ykA@mail.gmail.com>
 <d830cb992b4e47f88d0fe8c79d3cbb2c@ranteer.com>
 <0178B03E-1363-4EB3-B57C-D995941C3F5F@att.net>
 <CAO8Q7CN5R9c3RfC6Yhw47S0EnrKuzJnmpGSGwrVxSLyBECAfSA@mail.gmail.com>
 <1318664388.7654675.1715025624422@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAO8Q7CPhaREioP-bS_hj4v_xa3=_H5kME7Ui=T=Y4oj5E2bCrQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <b70fa8c6-e68d-4f62-91b6-b3e1d5aea9ff@comcast.net>

My QJ just fits under both my Healey 3000 and 100 (very low cars). 
Lateral stability is fine, but put them too far forward and the car can 
tip towards the rear (ask me how I know). Also, the cars move 
backwards--around a foot or so--as the QJ lifts, so don't park too close 
to a wall behind.

The two ramps of the QJ are, for the most part, too close together to 
get a creeper through.

On 5/6/2024 5:19 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:
>
>
> On Mon, May 6, 2024 at 4:00?PM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
>
>     I have the 3500 model and it fits between the wheels on a TR6.? (I
>     measured before ordering.)? I don't know if the spitfire has a
>     shorter wheelbase but if it does you might have issues here as it
>     just barely fits within the TR6 wheelbase.
>
> "Wheel Spread" on the TR6 is 68" and 62" on the Spitfire.
>
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue May  7 05:49:16 2024
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2024 11:49:16 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Shop-talk] [TR] Scissor Lift
In-Reply-To: <CAO8Q7CPhaREioP-bS_hj4v_xa3=_H5kME7Ui=T=Y4oj5E2bCrQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMHq6ZwWP6=6f9SgvCMteAcmyMF4Enwj-1hBw_=GNYby4s-ykA@mail.gmail.com>
 <d830cb992b4e47f88d0fe8c79d3cbb2c@ranteer.com>
 <0178B03E-1363-4EB3-B57C-D995941C3F5F@att.net>
 <CAO8Q7CN5R9c3RfC6Yhw47S0EnrKuzJnmpGSGwrVxSLyBECAfSA@mail.gmail.com>
 <1318664388.7654675.1715025624422@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAO8Q7CPhaREioP-bS_hj4v_xa3=_H5kME7Ui=T=Y4oj5E2bCrQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1414898303.7864745.1715082556385@mail.yahoo.com>

Hmmm.? These might not fit between the tires on a Spit.
I guess you could jack up each end and remove the wheels and set the car on jack stands and then position the Quick Jack but once the car is on jack stands what's the point.

Dave 


 

    On Monday, May 6, 2024 at 07:20:09 PM CDT, Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 

On Mon, May 6, 2024 at 4:00?PM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:

I have the 3500 model and it fits between the wheels on a TR6.? (I measured before ordering.)? I don't know if the spitfire has a shorter wheelbase but if it does you might have issues here as it just barely fits within the TR6 wheelbase.? 

"Wheel Spread" on the TR6 is 68" and 62" on the Spitfire.?  
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue May  7 06:02:53 2024
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2024 12:02:53 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Shop-talk] [TR]  Scissor Lift
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwh22x2X=mHo8K93hq4MAhpD04G+DNzp47xA4pYvRk9ivg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMHq6ZwWP6=6f9SgvCMteAcmyMF4Enwj-1hBw_=GNYby4s-ykA@mail.gmail.com>
 <d830cb992b4e47f88d0fe8c79d3cbb2c@ranteer.com>
 <0178B03E-1363-4EB3-B57C-D995941C3F5F@att.net>
 <CAO8Q7CN5R9c3RfC6Yhw47S0EnrKuzJnmpGSGwrVxSLyBECAfSA@mail.gmail.com>
 <1318664388.7654675.1715025624422@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAO8Q7CPhaREioP-bS_hj4v_xa3=_H5kME7Ui=T=Y4oj5E2bCrQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJ1eQwh22x2X=mHo8K93hq4MAhpD04G+DNzp47xA4pYvRk9ivg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <746061490.7877670.1715083373891@mail.yahoo.com>

My TR6 is lowered slightly (Ted's lowered springs) and I have no issues sliding the Quick Jack lifts under the frame from the side.? But if I want to use a trolley jack under the front cross member I need to use another one under a frame rail to get enough clearance.??
My lifts warn not to drive over the lifts so I've never tried it.

Dave 


 

    On Monday, May 6, 2024 at 08:06:39 PM CDT, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 I imagine one would have to back a TR6 onto a scissors lift. The front end clearance if. TR 6 with an air dam is probably not more than 3?. And, I expect, every Triumph has a different ground clearance? some being very challenging to get a lift or even a floor jack under them?.
Dave
On Mon, May 6, 2024 at 8:44?PM Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at gmail.com> wrote:



On Mon, May 6, 2024 at 4:00?PM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:

I have the 3500 model and it fits between the wheels on a TR6.? (I measured before ordering.)? I don't know if the spitfire has a shorter wheelbase but if it does you might have issues here as it just barely fits within the TR6 wheelbase.? 

"Wheel Spread" on the TR6 is 68" and 62" on the Spitfire.?** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive

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From mbarre at juno.com  Mon May 13 07:40:00 2024
From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2024 13:40:00 GMT
Subject: [Shop-talk] Gas Pressure Washer problem
Message-ID: <20240513.094000.27091.0@webmail04.vgs.untd.com>

I cranked up the old pressure washer this weekend and it ran great, till it quit. It is an old Karcher G4000SH with low time, less than 50 hours on it. My wife was washing the deck, she put down the gun to reposition and when she went to resume it bogged down and quit. I was summoned to restart and find it is very hard to turn the motor over via the pull cord, I figure there is residual pressure on the pump so I pulled the trigger on the gun but nothing comes out.  Does this mean no residual pressure or is it a trigger failure?

I am stumped.  Any guidance or ideas?
TIA!

From fishplate at gmail.com  Mon May 13 09:05:44 2024
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2024 11:05:44 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Gas Pressure Washer problem
In-Reply-To: <20240513.094000.27091.0@webmail04.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20240513.094000.27091.0@webmail04.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CObKAwWt6M7D+BRQ0Axwmm6vpLCi=13m2TtFHEotFHf_A@mail.gmail.com>

My pressure washer is electric, but I assume the plumbing is similar.  If I
take the wand off, water will flow through the machine and the pump.  I
would first remove the tip, being careful to avoid any residual pressure.
Pull the trigger and see what comes out with the supply hose connected.
Then work your way back to the pump.

Also try removing the spark plug and see if it will turn over that way.

On Mon, May 13, 2024 at 9:51?AM Matt <mbarre at juno.com> wrote:

> I cranked up the old pressure washer this weekend and it ran great, till
> it quit. It is an old Karcher G4000SH with low time, less than 50 hours on
> it. My wife was washing the deck, she put down the gun to reposition and
> when she went to resume it bogged down and quit. I was summoned to restart
> and find it is very hard to turn the motor over via the pull cord, I figure
> there is residual pressure on the pump so I pulled the trigger on the gun
> but nothing comes out.  Does this mean no residual pressure or is it a
> trigger failure?
>
> I am stumped.  Any guidance or ideas?
> TIA!
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate at gmail.com
>
>
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From mbarre at juno.com  Mon May 13 10:01:47 2024
From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2024 16:01:47 GMT
Subject: [Shop-talk] Gas Pressure Washer problem
Message-ID: <20240513.120147.1237.0@webmail04.vgs.untd.com>

Good tips!
Engine oil is good.  I don't think the engine is the problem.  The tip back methodology makes sense. I am thinking a problem with the trigger valve...  I will report my findings  It's gonnaa be a couple of days though.


---------- Original Message ----------
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at gmail.com>
To: Matt <mbarre at juno.com>
Cc: shop-talk at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Gas Pressure Washer problem
Date: Mon, 13 May 2024 11:05:44 -0400

My pressure washer is electric, but I assume the plumbing is similar.? If I take the wand off, water will flow through the?machine and the pump.? I would first remove the tip, being careful to avoid any residual pressure.? Pull the trigger and see what comes out with the supply hose connected.? Then work your way?back to the pump.
Also try removing the spark plug and see if it will turn over that way.
On Mon, May 13, 2024 at 9:51?AM Matt <mbarre at juno.com> wrote:
I cranked up the old pressure washer this weekend and it ran great, till it quit. It is an old Karcher G4000SH with low time, less than 50 hours on it. My wife was washing the deck, she put down the gun to reposition and when she went to resume it bogged down and quit. I was summoned to restart and find it is very hard to turn the motor over via the pull cord, I figure there is residual pressure on the pump so I pulled the trigger on the gun but nothing comes out.? Does this mean no residual pressure or is it a trigger failure?

I am stumped.? Any guidance or ideas?
TIA!
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate at gmail.com



From tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com  Mon May 13 11:57:21 2024
From: tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com (Tim .)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2024 17:57:21 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] car repair at home (in my Shop)
In-Reply-To: <MN6PR14MB71974A43EA709D32FD8612D1B4162@MN6PR14MB7197.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
References: <MN6PR14MB7197922A0B94FC93682E1561B4172@MN6PR14MB7197.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
 <MN6PR14MB71974A43EA709D32FD8612D1B4162@MN6PR14MB7197.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <MN6PR14MB71970E662219D238058C3549B4E22@MN6PR14MB7197.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>

Thanks again for the suggestions of the E6000. The reinforced repair appears to be holding up just fine.
________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>
Sent: Friday, April 26, 2024 9:36 AM
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] car repair at home (in my Shop)

Thanks for the replies.

I had the same thought of an epoxy and reinforcement. I just wasn't sure what product to use.

I will hopefully be able to find this E6000 today.

thanks again all!!
tim
________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2024 11:57 AM
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] car repair at home (in my Shop)

The front bumper on my wife's 2016 Lexus recently got damaged. No clue how as there are no signs of it getting hit. I was able to reattach this broken bit using the original mounting clip but it obviously didn't hold.

Any thoughts on what I can use to try to fix this broken mount point so the OEM clip will hold it?

Thanks
tim
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From eric at megageek.com  Fri May 17 09:25:14 2024
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Fri, 17 May 2024 11:25:14 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Weird question
Message-ID: <OF3B0C5169.BF89C8BE-ON85258B20.00540261-85258B20.0054B515@mail.megageek.com>

So I wanted to know if anyone out there have any experiences with painting 
vinyl/canvas tops.

Here is the situation.  I painted my jeep in a zebra pattern.  I have a 
soft top (this exact one...  
https://www.smittybilt.com/product-skus/smittybilt-extended-top-black-diamond-93635/

and I was wondering if I can paint or dye stripes on it as well.  I'm not 
100% sure what it's made of.

I was just wondering if anyone had an success with doing something like 
this.

Thanks,  BTW, my zebra jeep's name is "Spot"  8>)

Moose
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri May 17 19:29:16 2024
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 17 May 2024 18:29:16 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Weird question
In-Reply-To: <OF3B0C5169.BF89C8BE-ON85258B20.00540261-85258B20.0054B515@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF3B0C5169.BF89C8BE-ON85258B20.00540261-85258B20.0054B515@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <dc212f91-12b9-4812-a6dd-df910f63923e@comcast.net>

Long time ago, I painted the vinyl parts of an aircraft interior with 
vinyl paint; it stuck and held up pretty well. Maybe put some sort of 
sealant on the top after painting.

On 5/17/2024 8:25 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote:
> So I wanted to know if anyone out there have any experiences with 
> painting vinyl/canvas tops.
>
> Here is the situation. ?I painted my jeep in a zebra pattern. ?I have 
> a soft top (this exact one... 
> https://www.smittybilt.com/product-skus/smittybilt-extended-top-black-diamond-93635/ 
> <https://www.smittybilt.com/product-skus/smittybilt-extended-top-black-diamond-93635/> 
>
>
> and I was wondering if I can paint or dye stripes on it as well. ?I'm 
> not 100% sure what it's made of.
>
> I was just wondering if anyone had an success with doing something 
> like this.
>
> Thanks, ?BTW, my zebra jeep's name is "Spot" ?8>)
>
> Moose
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From strovato at optonline.net  Wed May 22 22:48:01 2024
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 00:48:01 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] automotive connector breakout wires
In-Reply-To: <OF3B0C5169.BF89C8BE-ON85258B20.00540261-85258B20.0054B515@
 mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF3B0C5169.BF89C8BE-ON85258B20.00540261-85258B20.0054B515@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <6643BC94013E0458@altprdrgo03.altice.prod.cloud.openwave.ai>
 (added by postmaster@optonline.net)

I need access to the individual pins in automotive 
connectors.  Sometimes there are other approaches like back probing 
that work.  But other times I need to actually reach into the 
connector and connect to a pin or socket.  Most recently I was 
working on the power running boards on my Ford Expedition.  I wanted 
to apply 12 Volts to one particular pin and ground to a different pin 
to actuate the motor.  Switching the two makes the motor operate in 
the other direction.  That's how the running boards extend or 
retract.  Fortunately, the two pins I needed were separated by an 
unused pin location and I was able to use some jumper wires with 
small alligator clips.  That worked out, but if the pins had been 
adjacent I wouldn't have had enough room.  I see there are some 
breakout wire sets available like 
this: 
https://www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscilliscope/dp/B07QXZ79J2. 
This particular one seems to be designed to connect to an 
oscilloscope, which is not my situation.  There are also sets of 
automotive pins available like this: 
https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-Removal/dp/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=sr_1_3. 
I suppose I could make my own wires as needed.  So, what do you guys 
use for these situations?  Of course next time it will probably be a 
different car and pins will probably be a different size and/or 
shape.  I am sure I won't have every possible size and type, but I'd 
like to be able to cover a lot of the possibilities.  Have you found 
something that works for you?  Thanks.

-Steve T.


-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
www.avast.com

From arvidj999 at gmail.com  Thu May 23 01:44:12 2024
From: arvidj999 at gmail.com (Arvid Jedlicka)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 02:44:12 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] automotive connector breakout wires
In-Reply-To: <664ecd40.050a0220.5228e.2c33SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
References: <OF3B0C5169.BF89C8BE-ON85258B20.00540261-85258B20.0054B515@mail.megageek.com>
 <664ecd40.050a0220.5228e.2c33SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <CAJhezSdWJ9WPxhAdn_YM+g0ZPiKaifpw0P+KH+bsuxuiUb_qAA@mail.gmail.com>

Maybe something like this ...
https://www.harborfreight.com/back-probe-kit-22-piece-70614.html?_br_psugg_q=probe
.

On Wed, May 22, 2024, 11:59 PM Steven Trovato <strovato at optonline.net>
wrote:

> I need access to the individual pins in automotive
> connectors.  Sometimes there are other approaches like back probing
> that work.  But other times I need to actually reach into the
> connector and connect to a pin or socket.  Most recently I was
> working on the power running boards on my Ford Expedition.  I wanted
> to apply 12 Volts to one particular pin and ground to a different pin
> to actuate the motor.  Switching the two makes the motor operate in
> the other direction.  That's how the running boards extend or
> retract.  Fortunately, the two pins I needed were separated by an
> unused pin location and I was able to use some jumper wires with
> small alligator clips.  That worked out, but if the pins had been
> adjacent I wouldn't have had enough room.  I see there are some
> breakout wire sets available like
> this:
>
> https://www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscilliscope/dp/B07QXZ79J2.
>
> This particular one seems to be designed to connect to an
> oscilloscope, which is not my situation.  There are also sets of
> automotive pins available like this:
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-Removal/dp/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=sr_1_3.
>
> I suppose I could make my own wires as needed.  So, what do you guys
> use for these situations?  Of course next time it will probably be a
> different car and pins will probably be a different size and/or
> shape.  I am sure I won't have every possible size and type, but I'd
> like to be able to cover a lot of the possibilities.  Have you found
> something that works for you?  Thanks.
>
> -Steve T.
>
>
> --
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> www.avast.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/arvidj999 at gmail.com
>
>
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From eric at megageek.com  Thu May 23 06:19:28 2024
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 08:19:28 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] automotive connector breakout wires
In-Reply-To: <6643BC94013E0458@altprdrgo03.altice.prod.cloud.openwave.ai>
 (added by postmaster@optonline.net)
References: <OF3B0C5169.BF89C8BE-ON85258B20.00540261-85258B20.0054B515@mail.megageek.com>
 <6643BC94013E0458@altprdrgo03.altice.prod.cloud.openwave.ai> (added
 by postmaster@optonline.net)
Message-ID: <OFACCDAA92.B7AF3D18-ON85258B26.00437ECD-85258B26.0043B306@mail.megageek.com>

Steven

Not sure this is the perfect solution to your problem, but the power 
probe...
https://www.powerprobe.com/
can offer both +12vdc and -12vdc with one pin (among a massive amount of 
other features.)

It ain't cheap, but it is an amazing tool that will help with all 
electrical work on vehicles.

Moose






From:   Steven Trovato <strovato at optonline.net>
To:     Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Date:   05/23/2024 12:54 AM
Subject:        [Shop-talk] automotive connector breakout wires
Sent by:        "Shop-talk" <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net>



I need access to the individual pins in automotive 
connectors.  Sometimes there are other approaches like back probing 
that work.  But other times I need to actually reach into the 
connector and connect to a pin or socket.  Most recently I was 
working on the power running boards on my Ford Expedition.  I wanted 
to apply 12 Volts to one particular pin and ground to a different pin 
to actuate the motor.  Switching the two makes the motor operate in 
the other direction.  That's how the running boards extend or 
retract.  Fortunately, the two pins I needed were separated by an 
unused pin location and I was able to use some jumper wires with 
small alligator clips.  That worked out, but if the pins had been 
adjacent I wouldn't have had enough room.  I see there are some 
breakout wire sets available like 
this: 
https://www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscilliscope/dp/B07QXZ79J2
. 
This particular one seems to be designed to connect to an 
oscilloscope, which is not my situation.  There are also sets of 
automotive pins available like this: 
https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-Removal/dp/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=sr_1_3
. 
I suppose I could make my own wires as needed.  So, what do you guys 
use for these situations?  Of course next time it will probably be a 
different car and pins will probably be a different size and/or 
shape.  I am sure I won't have every possible size and type, but I'd 
like to be able to cover a lot of the possibilities.  Have you found 
something that works for you?  Thanks.

-Steve T.


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From strovato at optonline.net  Thu May 23 09:03:56 2024
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 11:03:56 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] automotive connector breakout wires
In-Reply-To: <CAJhezSdWJ9WPxhAdn_YM+g0ZPiKaifpw0P+KH+bsuxuiUb_qAA@mail.g
 mail.com>
References: <OF3B0C5169.BF89C8BE-ON85258B20.00540261-85258B20.0054B515@mail.megageek.com>
 <664ecd40.050a0220.5228e.2c33SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
 <CAJhezSdWJ9WPxhAdn_YM+g0ZPiKaifpw0P+KH+bsuxuiUb_qAA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6643B0F5014FAAAC@altprdrgo06.altice.prod.cloud.openwave.ai>
 (added by postmaster@optonline.net)

Yes, but back probing isn't always easy/possible 
on some of the more weatherproof connectors and I 
don't know if I would make a good enough 
connection to apply voltage and ground to run a 
motor.  I had the connector open on my bench so I 
was looking for a kit to do "front probing" if that's a thing.

At 03:44 AM 5/23/2024, Arvid Jedlicka wrote:
>Maybe something like this ...? 
><https://www.harborfreight.com/back-probe-kit-22-piece-70614.html?_br_psugg_q=probe>https://www.harborfreight.com/back-probe-kit-22-piece-70614.html?_br_psugg_q=probe.? 
>
>
>On Wed, May 22, 2024, 11:59 PM Steven Trovato 
><<mailto:strovato at optonline.net>strovato at optonline.net> wrote:
>I need access to the individual pins in automotive
>connectors.?  Sometimes there are other approaches like back probing
>that work.?  But other times I need to actually reach into the
>connector and connect to a pin or socket.?  Most recently I was
>working on the power running boards on my Ford Expedition.?  I wanted
>to apply 12 Volts to one particular pin and ground to a different pin
>to actuate the motor.?  Switching the two makes the motor operate in
>the other direction.?  That's how the running boards extend or
>retract.?  Fortunately, the two pins I needed were separated by an
>unused pin location and I was able to use some jumper wires with
>small alligator clips.?  That worked out, but if the pins had been
>adjacent I wouldn't have had enough room.?  I see there are some
>breakout wire sets available like
>this:
><https://www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscilliscope/dp/B07QXZ79J2>https://www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscilliscope/dp/B07QXZ79J2. 
>
>This particular one seems to be designed to connect to an
>oscilloscope, which is not my situation.?  There are also sets of
>automotive pins available like this:
><https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-Removal/dp/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=sr_1_3>https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-Removal/dp/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=sr_1_3. 
>
>I suppose I could make my own wires as needed.?  So, what do you guys
>use for these situations??  Of course next time it will probably be a
>different car and pins will probably be a different size and/or
>shape.?  I am sure I won't have every possible size and type, but I'd
>like to be able to cover a lot of the possibilities.?  Have you found
>something that works for you??  Thanks.
>
>-Steve T.
>
>
>--
>This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
><http://www.avast.com>www.avast.com
>_______________________________________________
>
><mailto:Shop-talk at autox.team.net>Shop-talk at autox.team.net
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>Suggested annual donation?  $12.96
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From strovato at optonline.net  Thu May 23 09:12:48 2024
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 11:12:48 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] automotive connector breakout wires
In-Reply-To: <OFACCDAA92.B7AF3D18-ON85258B26.00437ECD-85258B26.0043B306@
 mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF3B0C5169.BF89C8BE-ON85258B20.00540261-85258B20.0054B515@mail.megageek.com>
 <6643BC94013E0458@altprdrgo03.altice.prod.cloud.openwave.ai>
 <OFACCDAA92.B7AF3D18-ON85258B26.00437ECD-85258B26.0043B306@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <664CFF5D004527CE@altprdrgo01.altice.prod.cloud.openwave.ai>
 (added by postmaster@optonline.net)

Power probe is great.  I have one.  In my case I needed to apply 12V 
to one pin and ground to another.  Then switch which pin got which to 
reverse.  Would almost need two power probes.  And the real problem 
is getting the 12V and ground to the pins.  I'm not steady enough to 
freehand the probe tip into the connector to the correct pin, 
especially if hitting the wrong pin or bridging two together might 
have bad consequences.

At 08:19 AM 5/23/2024, eric at megageek.com wrote:
>Steven
>
>Not sure this is the perfect solution to your problem, but the power probe...
><https://www.powerprobe.com/>https://www.powerprobe.com/
>can offer both +12vdc and -12vdc with one pin (among a massive 
>amount of other features.)
>
>It ain't cheap, but it is an amazing tool that will help with all 
>electrical work on vehicles.
>
>Moose
>
>
>
>
>
>
>From:        Steven Trovato <strovato at optonline.net>
>To:        Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>Date:        05/23/2024 12:54 AM
>Subject:        [Shop-talk] automotive connector breakout wires
>Sent by:        "Shop-talk" <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net>
>
>
>
>
>I need access to the individual pins in automotive
>connectors.  Sometimes there are other approaches like back probing
>that work.  But other times I need to actually reach into the
>connector and connect to a pin or socket.  Most recently I was
>working on the power running boards on my Ford Expedition.  I wanted
>to apply 12 Volts to one particular pin and ground to a different pin
>to actuate the motor.  Switching the two makes the motor operate in
>the other direction.  That's how the running boards extend or
>retract.  Fortunately, the two pins I needed were separated by an
>unused pin location and I was able to use some jumper wires with
>small alligator clips.  That worked out, but if the pins had been
>adjacent I wouldn't have had enough room.  I see there are some
>breakout wire sets available like
>this:
><https://www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscilliscope/dp/B07QXZ79J2>https://www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscilliscope/dp/B07QXZ79J2. 
>
>This particular one seems to be designed to connect to an
>oscilloscope, which is not my situation.  There are also sets of
>automotive pins available like this:
><https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-Removal/dp/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=sr_1_3>https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-Removal/dp/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=sr_1_3. 
>
>I suppose I could make my own wires as needed.  So, what do you guys
>use for these situations?  Of course next time it will probably be a
>different car and pins will probably be a different size and/or
>shape.  I am sure I won't have every possible size and type, but I'd
>like to be able to cover a lot of the possibilities.  Have you found
>something that works for you?  Thanks.
>
>-Steve T.
>
>
>--
>This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
><www.avast.htm>www.avast.com
>_______________________________________________
>
>Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>Donate: <http://www.team.net/donate.html>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>Archive: 
><http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk>http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk 
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>
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
><http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eric at megageek.com>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eric at megageek.com
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From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Thu May 23 09:21:34 2024
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 10:21:34 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] automotive connector breakout wires
In-Reply-To: <664ecd81.630a0220.16ecc.19a3SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
References: <664ecd81.630a0220.16ecc.19a3SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <51D7AA05-444E-4600-9859-62A1C9B3FFC1@gmail.com>



> On May 23, 2024, at 00:00, Steven Trovato <strovato at optonline.net> wrote:
> 
> ?I need access to the individual pins in automotive connectors.  Sometimes there are other approaches like back probing that work.  But other times I need to actually reach into the connector and connect to a pin or socket.  Most recently I was working on the power running boards on my Ford Expedition.  I wanted to apply 12 Volts to one particular pin and ground to a different pin to actuate the motor.  Switching the two makes the motor operate in the other direction.  That's how the running boards extend or retract.  Fortunately, the two pins I needed were separated by an unused pin location and I was able to use some jumper wires with small alligator clips.  That worked out, but if the pins had been adjacent I wouldn't have had enough room.  I see there are some breakout wire sets available like this: https://www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscilliscope/dp/B07QXZ79J2. This particular one seems to be designed to connect to an oscilloscope, which is not my situation.  There are also sets of automotive pins available like this: https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-Removal/dp/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=sr_1_3. I suppose I could make my own wires as needed.  So, what do you guys use for these situations?  Of course next time it will probably be a different car and pins will probably be a different size and/or shape.  I am sure I won't have every possible size and type, but I'd like to be able to cover a lot of the possibilities.  Have you found something that works for you?  Thanks.
> 

When I was working in a shop, we cut connectors off of things when we replaced them, with as long a tail as possible.  They got used for testing, and I depinned connectors to have individual wires for testing etc. I often ended up having to make what I wanted. 

For some components, connector pig tails are available at reasonable price, those are great for this. 

If I were still working in a shop, I probably would spring for a connector kit from aeswave, or someone like that. It?s going to have bananas on the end, but that?s easy to deal with, with a banana to bare wire or crocodile clip.  They are expensive kits, though. 



From fishplate at gmail.com  Thu May 23 09:39:46 2024
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 11:39:46 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] automotive connector breakout wires
In-Reply-To: <664f5ee5.a70a0220.502f7.ebe3SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
References: <OF3B0C5169.BF89C8BE-ON85258B20.00540261-85258B20.0054B515@mail.megageek.com>
 <664ecd40.050a0220.5228e.2c33SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
 <CAJhezSdWJ9WPxhAdn_YM+g0ZPiKaifpw0P+KH+bsuxuiUb_qAA@mail.gmail.com>
 <664f5ee5.a70a0220.502f7.ebe3SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CO4korZd+NNJMUqdHTPJ5TYw85LVT2u=w2gORrUx2XdTQ@mail.gmail.com>

If you're trying to connect with the connector unplugged, the "easiest"
thing to do might be to get some male and female pins and make jumper wires
with them .   Finding the correct pins is the hard part of the easy
solution.

On Thu, May 23, 2024 at 11:21?AM Steven Trovato <strovato at optonline.net>
wrote:

> Yes, but back probing isn't always easy/possible on some of the more
> weatherproof connectors and I don't know if I would make a good enough
> connection to apply voltage and ground to run a motor.  I had the connector
> open on my bench so I was looking for a kit to do "front probing" if that's
> a thing.
>
> At 03:44 AM 5/23/2024, Arvid Jedlicka wrote:
>
> Maybe something like this ...?
> https://www.harborfreight.com/back-probe-kit-22-piece-70614.html?_br_psugg_q=probe
> .?
>
> On Wed, May 22, 2024, 11:59 PM Steven Trovato <strovato at optonline.net >
> wrote:
> I need access to the individual pins in automotive
> connectors.?  Sometimes there are other approaches like back probing
> that work.?  But other times I need to actually reach into the
> connector and connect to a pin or socket.?  Most recently I was
> working on the power running boards on my Ford Expedition.?  I wanted
> to apply 12 Volts to one particular pin and ground to a different pin
> to actuate the motor.?  Switching the two makes the motor operate in
> the other direction.?  That's how the running boards extend or
> retract.?  Fortunately, the two pins I needed were separated by an
> unused pin location and I was able to use some jumper wires with
> small alligator clips.?  That worked out, but if the pins had been
> adjacent I wouldn't have had enough room.?  I see there are some
> breakout wire sets available like
> this:
>
> https://www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscilliscope/dp/B07QXZ79J2
> .
> This particular one seems to be designed to connect to an
> oscilloscope, which is not my situation.?  There are also sets of
> automotive pins available like this:
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-Removal/dp/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=sr_1_3
> .
> I suppose I could make my own wires as needed.?  So, what do you guys
> use for these situations??  Of course next time it will probably be a
> different car and pins will probably be a different size and/or
> shape.?  I am sure I won't have every possible size and type, but I'd
> like to be able to cover a lot of the possibilities.?  Have you found
> something that works for you??  Thanks.
>
> -Steve T.
>
>
> --
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> www.avast.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation?  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
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> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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From eric at megageek.com  Thu May 23 10:43:32 2024
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 12:43:32 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] automotive connector breakout wires
In-Reply-To: <CAO8Q7CO4korZd+NNJMUqdHTPJ5TYw85LVT2u=w2gORrUx2XdTQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <OF3B0C5169.BF89C8BE-ON85258B20.00540261-85258B20.0054B515@mail.megageek.com>
 <664ecd40.050a0220.5228e.2c33SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
 <CAJhezSdWJ9WPxhAdn_YM+g0ZPiKaifpw0P+KH+bsuxuiUb_qAA@mail.gmail.com>
 <664f5ee5.a70a0220.502f7.ebe3SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
 <CAO8Q7CO4korZd+NNJMUqdHTPJ5TYw85LVT2u=w2gORrUx2XdTQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <OF4177F404.491BEF9F-ON85258B26.005BC314-85258B26.005BE03C@mail.megageek.com>

Steven,

AH, now that I know what you are doing, maybe hit a junkyard and just buy 
both ends off of that connector.


Shouldn't be too expensive.

Moose
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From strovato at optonline.net  Thu May 23 11:41:36 2024
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 13:41:36 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] automotive connector breakout wires
In-Reply-To: <51D7AA05-444E-4600-9859-62A1C9B3FFC1@gmail.com>
References: <664ecd81.630a0220.16ecc.19a3SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
 <51D7AA05-444E-4600-9859-62A1C9B3FFC1@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6643BF3801530DF6@altprdrgo02.altice.prod.cloud.openwave.ai>
 (added by postmaster@optonline.net)

That's pretty much what I thought.  Not doing 
this professionally, my collection of cut off 
connectors and depinned wires is rather 
thin.  Buying connector pigtails is great if I 
can find them and don't mind waiting around for 
an order.  The aeswave set would be ideal, but as 
you said, it's a bit expensive for occasional 
home use.  Perhaps there is a cheap imitation out 
there that will work.  Thanks.

At 11:21 AM 5/23/2024, David Scheidt wrote:



> > On May 23, 2024, at 00:00, Steven Trovato <strovato at optonline.net> wrote:
> >
> > ???I need access to the individual pins in 
> automotive connectors.  Sometimes there are 
> other approaches like back probing that 
> work.  But other times I need to actually reach 
> into the connector and connect to a pin or 
> socket.  Most recently I was working on the 
> power running boards on my Ford Expedition.  I 
> wanted to apply 12 Volts to one particular pin 
> and ground to a different pin to actuate the 
> motor.  Switching the two makes the motor 
> operate in the other direction.  That's how the 
> running boards extend or retract.  Fortunately, 
> the two pins I needed were separated by an 
> unused pin location and I was able to use some 
> jumper wires with small alligator clips.  That 
> worked out, but if the pins had been adjacent I 
> wouldn't have had enough room.  I see there are 
> some breakout wire sets available like this: 
> https://www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscilliscope/dp/B07QXZ79J2. 
> This particular one seems to be designed to 
> connect to an oscilloscope, which is not my 
> situation.  There are also sets of automotive 
> pins available like this: 
> https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-Removal/dp/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=sr_1_3. 
> I suppose I could make my own wires as 
> needed.  So, what do you guys use for these 
> situations?  Of course next time it will 
> probably be a different car and pins will 
> probably be a different size and/or shape.  I 
> am sure I won't have every possible size and 
> type, but I'd like to be able to cover a lot of 
> the possibilities.  Have you found something that works for you?  Thanks.
> >
>
>When I was working in a shop, we cut connectors 
>off of things when we replaced them, with as 
>long a tail as possible.  They got used for 
>testing, and I depinned connectors to have 
>individual wires for testing etc. I often ended 
>up having to make what I wanted.
>
>For some components, connector pig tails are 
>available at reasonable price, those are great for this.
>
>If I were still working in a shop, I probably 
>would spring for a connector kit from aeswave, 
>or someone like that. It?s going to have bananas 
>on the end, but that?s easy to deal with, with a 
>banana to bare wire or crocodile clip.  They are expensive kits, though.


-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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From strovato at optonline.net  Thu May 23 11:45:09 2024
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 13:45:09 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] automotive connector breakout wires
In-Reply-To: <CAO8Q7CO4korZd+NNJMUqdHTPJ5TYw85LVT2u=w2gORrUx2XdTQ@mail.g
 mail.com>
References: <OF3B0C5169.BF89C8BE-ON85258B20.00540261-85258B20.0054B515@mail.megageek.com>
 <664ecd40.050a0220.5228e.2c33SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
 <CAJhezSdWJ9WPxhAdn_YM+g0ZPiKaifpw0P+KH+bsuxuiUb_qAA@mail.gmail.com>
 <664f5ee5.a70a0220.502f7.ebe3SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
 <CAO8Q7CO4korZd+NNJMUqdHTPJ5TYw85LVT2u=w2gORrUx2XdTQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6643BF3801530EF1@altprdrgo02.altice.prod.cloud.openwave.ai>
 (added by postmaster@optonline.net)

Yes, that is what led me to something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-Removal/dp/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=sr_1_3
I'm just not sure how likely it will be to find 
the ones I need in a set like that.

At 11:39 AM 5/23/2024, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:
>If you're trying to connect with the connector 
>unplugged, the "easiest" thing to do might be to 
>get some male and female? pins and make jumper 
>wires with them .?  ? Finding the correct pins 
>is the hard part of the easy solution.
>
>On Thu, May 23, 2024 at 11:21???AM Steven 
>Trovato <<mailto:strovato at optonline.net>strovato at optonline.net> wrote:
>Yes, but back probing isn't always easy/possible 
>on some of the more weatherproof connectors and 
>I don't know if I would make a good enough 
>connection to apply voltage and ground to run a 
>motor.?  I had the connector open on my bench so 
>I was looking for a kit to do "front probing" if that's a thing.
>
>At 03:44 AM 5/23/2024, Arvid Jedlicka wrote:
>>Maybe something like this ...?? 
>><https://www.harborfreight.com/back-probe-kit-22-piece-70614.html?_br_psugg_q=probe>https://www.harborfreight.com/back-probe-kit-22-piece-70614.html?_br_psugg_q=probe 
>>.??
>>
>>On Wed, May 22, 2024, 11:59 PM Steven Trovato 
>><<mailto:strovato at optonline.net>strovato at optonline.net > wrote:
>>I need access to the individual pins in automotive
>>connectors.???  Sometimes there are other approaches like back probing
>>that work.???  But other times I need to actually reach into the
>>connector and connect to a pin or socket.???  Most recently I was
>>working on the power running boards on my Ford Expedition.???  I wanted
>>to apply 12 Volts to one particular pin and ground to a different pin
>>to actuate the motor.???  Switching the two makes the motor operate in
>>the other direction.???  That's how the running boards extend or
>>retract.???  Fortunately, the two pins I needed were separated by an
>>unused pin location and I was able to use some jumper wires with
>>small alligator clips.???  That worked out, but if the pins had been
>>adjacent I wouldn't have had enough room.???  I see there are some
>>breakout wire sets available like
>>this:
>><https://www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscilliscope/dp/B07QXZ79J2>https://www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscilliscope/dp/B07QXZ79J2 
>>.
>>This particular one seems to be designed to connect to an
>>oscilloscope, which is not my situation.???  There are also sets of
>>automotive pins available like this:
>><https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-Removal/dp/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=sr_1_3>https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-Removal/dp/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=sr_1_3 
>>.
>>I suppose I could make my own wires as needed.???  So, what do you guys
>>use for these situations????  Of course next time it will probably be a
>>different car and pins will probably be a different size and/or
>>shape.???  I am sure I won't have every possible size and type, but I'd
>>like to be able to cover a lot of the possibilities.???  Have you found
>>something that works for you????  Thanks.
>>-Steve T.
>>
>>--
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From strovato at optonline.net  Thu May 23 11:54:49 2024
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 13:54:49 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] automotive connector breakout wires
In-Reply-To: <OF4177F404.491BEF9F-ON85258B26.005BC314-85258B26.005BE03C@
 mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF3B0C5169.BF89C8BE-ON85258B20.00540261-85258B20.0054B515@mail.megageek.com>
 <664ecd40.050a0220.5228e.2c33SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
 <CAJhezSdWJ9WPxhAdn_YM+g0ZPiKaifpw0P+KH+bsuxuiUb_qAA@mail.gmail.com>
 <664f5ee5.a70a0220.502f7.ebe3SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
 <CAO8Q7CO4korZd+NNJMUqdHTPJ5TYw85LVT2u=w2gORrUx2XdTQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <OF4177F404.491BEF9F-ON85258B26.005BC314-85258B26.005BE03C@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <6643BF38015360EA@altprdrgo02.altice.prod.cloud.openwave.ai>
 (added by postmaster@optonline.net)

I have not found junk yards to be very interested in damaging a 
wiring harness and component for a few dollars.  The would rather 
sell the whole component and or harness.  In fact, they'd rather not 
spend any time or energy at all on something like this.  Maybe if you 
do a lot of business with them and develop a relationship they might 
be more willing. BTW, I have already solved the problem with my 
running board.  I was just looking to be better prepared the next 
time something like this comes up.  Thanks.

At 12:43 PM 5/23/2024, eric at megageek.com wrote:
>Steven,
>
>AH, now that I know what you are doing, maybe hit a junkyard and 
>just buy both ends off of that connector.
>
>
>Shouldn't be too expensive.
>
>Moose


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From parkanzky at gmail.com  Thu May 23 12:45:34 2024
From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 14:45:34 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] automotive connector breakout wires
In-Reply-To: <664f8c40.630a0220.9029d.ab19SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
References: <OF3B0C5169.BF89C8BE-ON85258B20.00540261-85258B20.0054B515@mail.megageek.com>
 <664ecd40.050a0220.5228e.2c33SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
 <CAJhezSdWJ9WPxhAdn_YM+g0ZPiKaifpw0P+KH+bsuxuiUb_qAA@mail.gmail.com>
 <664f5ee5.a70a0220.502f7.ebe3SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
 <CAO8Q7CO4korZd+NNJMUqdHTPJ5TYw85LVT2u=w2gORrUx2XdTQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <OF4177F404.491BEF9F-ON85258B26.005BC314-85258B26.005BE03C@mail.megageek.com>
 <664f8c40.630a0220.9029d.ab19SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <CAOErii=vtkbgFbV-thsmkZ=QetnVY5_BC1_On971ZCVFsLiurQ@mail.gmail.com>

We have "U-Pull-It" style junk yards around here. If you go to one of those
you wander the lot with your own bag/small cart of tools and pretty much
attack the cars at-will. They have price lists for whatever it is you bring
back to the gate. Not sure what they'd charge for connectors with pigtails
on them but I would expect it to be very little.

On Thu, May 23, 2024 at 2:34?PM Steven Trovato <strovato at optonline.net>
wrote:

> I have not found junk yards to be very interested in damaging a wiring
> harness and component for a few dollars.  The would rather sell the whole
> component and or harness.  In fact, they'd rather not spend any time or
> energy at all on something like this.  Maybe if you do a lot of business
> with them and develop a relationship they might be more willing. BTW, I
> have already solved the problem with my running board.  I was just looking
> to be better prepared the next time something like this comes up.  Thanks.
>
> At 12:43 PM 5/23/2024, eric at megageek.com wrote:
>
> Steven,
>
> AH, now that I know what you are doing, maybe hit a junkyard and just buy
> both ends off of that connector.
>
>
> Shouldn't be too expensive.
>
> Moose
>
>
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
> Virus-free.www.avast.com
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> <#m_5536667405124813571_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Thu May 23 12:56:06 2024
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 13:56:06 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] automotive connector breakout wires
In-Reply-To: <CAO8Q7CO4korZd+NNJMUqdHTPJ5TYw85LVT2u=w2gORrUx2XdTQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <OF3B0C5169.BF89C8BE-ON85258B20.00540261-85258B20.0054B515@mail.megageek.com>
 <664ecd40.050a0220.5228e.2c33SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
 <CAJhezSdWJ9WPxhAdn_YM+g0ZPiKaifpw0P+KH+bsuxuiUb_qAA@mail.gmail.com>
 <664f5ee5.a70a0220.502f7.ebe3SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
 <CAO8Q7CO4korZd+NNJMUqdHTPJ5TYw85LVT2u=w2gORrUx2XdTQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CA+k5supPkOjLwMR7GueMhOZJyDj+Z08Y_3EoeY0AxxqCNiq98w@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, May 23, 2024 at 11:21?AM Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at gmail.com>
wrote:

> If you're trying to connect with the connector unplugged, the "easiest"
> thing to do might be to get some male and female pins and make jumper wires
> with them .   Finding the correct pins is the hard part of the easy
> solution.
>
>
If you can figure out which ones you need, getting the right pins is easy,
and even real OEM ones are usually pretty cheap.  The problem is there are
lots of choices, and they all require their own crimping dies, so it's hard
to keep them on hand just in case. For testing, you can probably get away
with the wrong tool, or soldering them on.  But if you're repairing a
connector, you want the right crimper; poorly crimped pins and socket ends
are a source of maddening intermittent failures and risk deciding a part
has failed when it's just the wire end that's bad.

One very real advantage of using the right pins is you can get a good sense
if you have a pin fit problem, which causes failures, often intermittent.
hard to do that with a probe or stick pin.

-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com
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From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Thu May 23 13:06:48 2024
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 14:06:48 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] automotive connector breakout wires
In-Reply-To: <664f8b21.630a0220.fe057.5b83SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
References: <OF3B0C5169.BF89C8BE-ON85258B20.00540261-85258B20.0054B515@mail.megageek.com>
 <664ecd40.050a0220.5228e.2c33SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
 <CAJhezSdWJ9WPxhAdn_YM+g0ZPiKaifpw0P+KH+bsuxuiUb_qAA@mail.gmail.com>
 <664f5ee5.a70a0220.502f7.ebe3SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
 <CAO8Q7CO4korZd+NNJMUqdHTPJ5TYw85LVT2u=w2gORrUx2XdTQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <OF4177F404.491BEF9F-ON85258B26.005BC314-85258B26.005BE03C@mail.megageek.com>
 <664f8b21.630a0220.fe057.5b83SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <CA+k5suqncUK0CJ1WHC9rbTjH=tdWO+EixbjY8Z358FG2qYHQiQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, May 23, 2024 at 1:29?PM Steven Trovato <strovato at optonline.net>
wrote:

> I have not found junk yards to be very interested in damaging a wiring
> harness and component for a few dollars.  The would rather sell the whole
> component and or harness.  In fact, they'd rather not spend any time or
> energy at all on something like this.  Maybe if you do a lot of business
> with them and develop a relationship they might be more willing. BTW, I
> have already solved the problem with my running board.  I was just looking
> to be better prepared the next time something like this comes up.  Thanks.
>

cutting the ends of wires is something that's done all the time at  the
u-pull it places.  Grabbing that running board motor?  cut the harness off
two or three feet back, etc.    I've made trips to yards -- on the
customer's dime -- to pull wiring sub-harnesses out of cars.  Cheaper to do
that, even at shop rates, than buy a new one sometimes.

-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com
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From strovato at optonline.net  Thu May 23 14:13:24 2024
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 16:13:24 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] automotive connector breakout wires
In-Reply-To: <CAOErii=vtkbgFbV-thsmkZ=QetnVY5_BC1_On971ZCVFsLiurQ@mail.g
 mail.com>
References: <OF3B0C5169.BF89C8BE-ON85258B20.00540261-85258B20.0054B515@mail.megageek.com>
 <664ecd40.050a0220.5228e.2c33SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
 <CAJhezSdWJ9WPxhAdn_YM+g0ZPiKaifpw0P+KH+bsuxuiUb_qAA@mail.gmail.com>
 <664f5ee5.a70a0220.502f7.ebe3SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
 <CAO8Q7CO4korZd+NNJMUqdHTPJ5TYw85LVT2u=w2gORrUx2XdTQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <OF4177F404.491BEF9F-ON85258B26.005BC314-85258B26.005BE03C@mail.megageek.com>
 <664f8c40.630a0220.9029d.ab19SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
 <CAOErii=vtkbgFbV-thsmkZ=QetnVY5_BC1_On971ZCVFsLiurQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <664E353D002AF46F@altprdrgo05.altice.prod.cloud.openwave.ai>
 (added by postmaster@optonline.net)

Right.  I don't have one of those near 
me.  Honestly, I don't know how it is possible 
that these still exist.  In a world dominated by 
lawyers and insurance companies I would think the 
risks would be too great.  "No customers allowed 
beyond this point" in the shop, but sure, go 
wander around on your own in this field full of 
sharp things and precariously balanced big heavy 
things.  What could go wrong?  Of course, I still wish there was one near here.

At 02:45 PM 5/23/2024, Paul Parkanzky wrote:
>We have "U-Pull-It" style junk yards around 
>here. If you go to one of those you wander the 
>lot with your own bag/small cart of tools and 
>pretty much attack the cars at-will. They have 
>price lists for whatever it is you bring back to 
>the gate. Not sure what they'd charge for 
>connectors with pigtails on them but I would expect it to be very little.
>
>On Thu, May 23, 2024 at 2:34???PM Steven Trovato 
><<mailto:strovato at optonline.net>strovato at optonline.net> wrote:
>I have not found junk yards to be very 
>interested in damaging a wiring harness and 
>component for a few dollars.?  The would rather 
>sell the whole component and or harness.?  In 
>fact, they'd rather not spend any time or energy 
>at all on something like this.?  Maybe if you do 
>a lot of business with them and develop a 
>relationship they might be more willing. BTW, I 
>have already solved the problem with my running 
>board.?  I was just looking to be better 
>prepared the next time something like this comes up.?  Thanks.
>
>At 12:43 PM 5/23/2024, <mailto:eric at megageek.com>eric at megageek.com wrote:
>>Steven,
>>
>>AH, now that I know what you are doing, maybe 
>>hit a junkyard and just buy both ends off of that connector.
>>
>>
>>Shouldn't be too expensive.
>>
>>Moose
>
><https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
>[]
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>_______________________________________________
>
><mailto:Shop-talk at autox.team.net>Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>Donate: <http://www.team.net/donate.html>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation?  $12.96
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>
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From markmiller at threeboysfarm.com  Sat May 25 12:25:32 2024
From: markmiller at threeboysfarm.com (Mark Miller)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2024 11:25:32 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] automotive connector breakout wires
In-Reply-To: <mailman.574.1716495239.11536.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.574.1716495239.11536.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <5ff0d45d-d66f-435f-b688-9933903ddd3f@threeboysfarm.com>

If the vehicle is common/popular enough to have an online forum for it you could find out what type/brand of pin it is there (or eyeball it and guess) and buy them from digikey.com  They have a very deep selection of connectors, pins, and sockets. Thousands of choices, so it works far easier if you get more info on what you need. Good luck!

Regards,

Mark Miller   707-490-5834
markmiller at threeboysfarm.com



From strovato at optonline.net  Sat May 25 15:54:04 2024
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2024 17:54:04 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] automotive connector breakout wires
In-Reply-To: <5ff0d45d-d66f-435f-b688-9933903ddd3f@threeboysfarm.com>
References: <mailman.574.1716495239.11536.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
 <5ff0d45d-d66f-435f-b688-9933903ddd3f@threeboysfarm.com>
Message-ID: <664E353D0073DDDB@altprdrgo05.altice.prod.cloud.openwave.ai>
 (added by postmaster@optonline.net)

Right.  But when I'm working, maybe diagnosing or troubleshooting, 
sometimes I think it would be nice to energize a motor or valve or 
something.  Having a collection of wires or pins or whatever makes 
that possible.  I'm really not going to stop, search digikey, pay a 
stupid amount for the item + shipping and then add some more to meet 
the minimum order.  And then I get to stop everything and wait.  I 
would do all of that for a part I need for the repair, but for a 
diagnostic test I'll find another way.  Thanks for your thoughts on 
the matter.

-Steve T.

At 02:25 PM 5/25/2024, Mark Miller wrote:
>If the vehicle is common/popular enough to have an online forum for 
>it you could find out what type/brand of pin it is there (or eyeball 
>it and guess) and buy them from digikey.com  They have a very deep 
>selection of connectors, pins, and sockets. Thousands of choices, so 
>it works far easier if you get more info on what you need. Good luck!
>
>Regards,
>
>Mark Miller   707-490-5834
>markmiller at threeboysfarm.com
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>
>Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
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From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Tue May 28 11:52:56 2024
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2024 12:52:56 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] automotive connector breakout wires
In-Reply-To: <665261e5.630a0220.97c42.bb07SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
References: <mailman.574.1716495239.11536.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
 <5ff0d45d-d66f-435f-b688-9933903ddd3f@threeboysfarm.com>
 <665261e5.630a0220.97c42.bb07SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <CA+k5suqL+nQF+6vGMnz3A15fuz1rGEG3NaMeVCy9qO-5jkHaLQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Sat, May 25, 2024 at 5:10?PM Steven Trovato <strovato at optonline.net> wrote:
>
> Right.  But when I'm working, maybe diagnosing or troubleshooting,
> sometimes I think it would be nice to energize a motor or valve or
> something.  Having a collection of wires or pins or whatever makes
> that possible.  I'm really not going to stop, search digikey, pay a
> stupid amount for the item + shipping and then add some more to meet
> the minimum order.  And then I get to stop everything and wait.  I
> would do all of that for a part I need for the repair, but for a
> diagnostic test I'll find another way.  Thanks for your thoughts on
> the matter.

If you only work on a few vehicles, it might be worth doing it in
advance.  that's especially true if you have something you're planning
on keeping forever, as you'll use it eventually.

I'm firmly in the "nope, not bothering with that." camp, for what it's
worth, and not only because my wife might kill me if I bought more
tools.



-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From strovato at optonline.net  Wed May 29 12:40:41 2024
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2024 14:40:41 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] automotive connector pin sizes
In-Reply-To: <CA+k5suqL+nQF+6vGMnz3A15fuz1rGEG3NaMeVCy9qO-5jkHaLQ@mail.g
 mail.com>
References: <mailman.574.1716495239.11536.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
 <5ff0d45d-d66f-435f-b688-9933903ddd3f@threeboysfarm.com>
 <665261e5.630a0220.97c42.bb07SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
 <CA+k5suqL+nQF+6vGMnz3A15fuz1rGEG3NaMeVCy9qO-5jkHaLQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6657547800053D75@altprdrgo04.altice.prod.cloud.openwave.ai>
 (added by postmaster@optonline.net)

Thank you all for your input on automotive connector breakout 
wires.  On a related note, there are selections of pins like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Twidec-Electrical-Terminal-Connector-Non-Insulated/dp/B0CXSW1ZK5/

It says it contains 1/1.5/1.8/2.2/2.8/3.5 mm sizes.  Does anyone know 
what those sizes mean?  How are they measured?  There's a variety of 
shapes and styles, some male and some female.  I'm not sure where I 
would measure to see what I need.  Thanks.

-Steve T.


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From patintexas at icloud.com  Wed May 29 17:45:00 2024
From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2024 18:45:00 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] automotive connector pin sizes
In-Reply-To: <6657547800053D75@altprdrgo04.altice.prod.cloud.openwave.ai>
 (added by postmaster@optonline.net)
References: <6657547800053D75@altprdrgo04.altice.prod.cloud.openwave.ai>
 (added by postmaster@optonline.net)
Message-ID: <1ABC392C-AA49-40B4-BBD3-C76AC0637B74@icloud.com>

Steve, the numbers would be the diameter of the male pins in millimeters & their related female pin. 

Peace, Pat
Pat Horne 
We support Habitat for Humanity


On May 29, 2024, at 1:56?PM, Steven Trovato <strovato at optonline.net> wrote:

?Thank you all for your input on automotive connector breakout wires.  On a related note, there are selections of pins like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Twidec-Electrical-Terminal-Connector-Non-Insulated/dp/B0CXSW1ZK5/

It says it contains 1/1.5/1.8/2.2/2.8/3.5 mm sizes.  Does anyone know what those sizes mean?  How are they measured?  There's a variety of shapes and styles, some male and some female.  I'm not sure where I would measure to see what I need.  Thanks.

-Steve T.


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From kentsu at corvairkid.com  Wed May 29 21:23:29 2024
From: kentsu at corvairkid.com (Kent Sullivan)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2024 20:23:29 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] automotive connector breakout wires
In-Reply-To: <CA+k5supPkOjLwMR7GueMhOZJyDj+Z08Y_3EoeY0AxxqCNiq98w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <OF3B0C5169.BF89C8BE-ON85258B20.00540261-85258B20.0054B515@mail.megageek.com>
 <664ecd40.050a0220.5228e.2c33SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
 <CAJhezSdWJ9WPxhAdn_YM+g0ZPiKaifpw0P+KH+bsuxuiUb_qAA@mail.gmail.com>
 <664f5ee5.a70a0220.502f7.ebe3SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
 <CAO8Q7CO4korZd+NNJMUqdHTPJ5TYw85LVT2u=w2gORrUx2XdTQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CA+k5supPkOjLwMR7GueMhOZJyDj+Z08Y_3EoeY0AxxqCNiq98w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4b5901dab240$be52a7f0$3af7f7d0$@corvairkid.com>

David, agreed?that?s been my personal experience.

 

Group?I recently have been working on a custom automotive project that has brought me into contact with all of these terminal types:

*	Packard 56 open barrel (Delco-Packard --> Delphi --> Aptiv)
*	Packard 59 (specifically Twin Lock)
*	Metri-Pack
*	Weather-Pack
*	Powerpole (Anderson)
*	Deutsch

 

I?m happy to try to help anyone on the list who is trying to identify terminals / shells or etc. I have had some success tracking down crimping tools as well.

 

FWIW, I have rapidly become a BIG fan of the Deutsch setup. Easier to work with (easier to crimp, easier to revise) and physically smaller than Weather-Pack.

 

--Kent

 

From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of David Scheidt
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2024 11:56 AM
To: shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] automotive connector breakout wires

 

 

 

On Thu, May 23, 2024 at 11:21?AM Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at gmail.com <mailto:fishplate at gmail.com> > wrote:

If you're trying to connect with the connector unplugged, the "easiest" thing to do might be to get some male and female pins and make jumper wires with them .   Finding the correct pins is the hard part of the easy solution.

 

 

If you can figure out which ones you need, getting the right pins is easy, and even real OEM ones are usually pretty cheap.  The problem is there are lots of choices, and they all require their own crimping dies, so it's hard to keep them on hand just in case. For testing, you can probably get away with the wrong tool, or soldering them on.  But if you're repairing a connector, you want the right crimper; poorly crimped pins and socket ends are a source of maddening intermittent failures and risk deciding a part has failed when it's just the wire end that's bad.  

 

One very real advantage of using the right pins is you can get a good sense if you have a pin fit problem, which causes failures, often intermittent.  hard to do that with a probe or stick pin.  

 

-- 

David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com <mailto:dmscheidt at gmail.com> 

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