From tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com Sat Feb 3 07:49:35 2024 From: tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com (Tim .) Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2024 14:49:35 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] totally OT Message-ID: Sorry for the OT but you guys are a diverse group who might be able to help...... We ended up with a Zenith marine carby. Do any of you have, or know someone who has, a WWII era (or later) Criss Craft or similar vintage boat? I am looking for leads on where I might be able to get this carb into the hands of someone who can use it. thanks tim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From patintexas at icloud.com Sat Feb 3 08:10:26 2024 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2024 09:10:26 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] totally OT In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I?ll check with a local boat shop but they are closed until Monday. They rebuild & repair wooden boats. Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Feb 3, 2024, at 9:08?AM, Tim . wrote: ? Sorry for the OT but you guys are a diverse group who might be able to help...... We ended up with a Zenith marine carby. Do any of you have, or know someone who has, a WWII era (or later) Criss Craft or similar vintage boat? I am looking for leads on where I might be able to get this carb into the hands of someone who can use it. thanks tim _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Sat Feb 3 10:08:17 2024 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2024 12:08:17 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Inexpensive OBD-II Scanner Message-ID: I have a 2012 Ford F-150 that throws a code. It's been to the dealer and repaired, then it threw the code again 5 months 3000 miles later. The dealer had it for a week and reset it and couldn't find a fault. Now, another 1500 miles and it's come back. N.B. Changing the battery also threw a code (the light went off after driving for a while, but it still shows on the scanner). I have a few suggestions to try and fix it, but I'm looking for something to read and reset the codes with. I can get my FLAPS to read it, but they are reluctant to reset it sometimes. I see readers on Amazon for $15 and up, but I'm willing to pay for a quality tool as long as it isn't stupid expensive. Any suggestions? Jeff the S Corrosion Acres, Ga. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bk13 at earthlink.net Sat Feb 3 11:09:51 2024 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2024 10:09:51 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Inexpensive OBD-II Scanner In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3f49deed-670b-4045-bbd7-0a7c370101d6@earthlink.net> As a basic scanner, I have an older version of this: https://www.harborfreight.com/obd-ii-code-reader-64981.html Read and reset codes on several cars.? Helped me understand (with internet research) if the code was something I could resolve or something the dealer needed to address.? Paid about $35, similar to the above reader.? You do have to drill down on menus because there are only two buttons.? Pay $60 and you can get more buttons and a more detailed display so the reader is likely to be easier to use. If you go up to the $320 reader, grab the coupon from https://www.harborfreight.com/coupons to save some money. Brian On 2/3/2024 9:08 AM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > I have a 2012 Ford F-150 that throws a code.? It's been to the dealer > and repaired, then it threw the code again 5 months 3000 miles later.? > The dealer had it for a week and reset it and couldn't find a fault.? > Now, another 1500 miles and it's come back. > > N.B. Changing the battery also threw a code (the light went off after > driving for a while, but it still shows on the scanner). > > I have a few suggestions to try and fix it, but I'm looking for > something to read and reset the codes with.? I can get my FLAPS to > read it, but they are reluctant to reset it sometimes.? I see readers > on Amazon for $15 and up, but I'm willing to pay for a quality tool as > long as it isn't stupid expensive. > > Any suggestions? > > Jeff the S > Corrosion Acres, Ga. > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net > From jblair1948 at cox.net Sat Feb 3 11:42:48 2024 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (JohnT Blair) Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2024 13:42:48 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Shop-talk] Inexpensive OBD-II Scanner In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1916646247.2124010.1706985768850@myemail.cox.net> On 02/03/2024 12:08 PM EST Jeff Scarbrough wrote: >I have a 2012 Ford F-150 that throws a code. It's been to >the dealer and repaired, then it threw the code again 5 >months 3000 miles later..... >I can get my FLAPS to read it, but they are reluctant to >reset it sometimes. I see readers on Amazon for $15 and >up, but I'm willing to pay for a quality tool as long as it isn't >stupid expensive. Jeff, Remember you get what you pay for. I've had 2 Actron readers. The first one I bought on sale for $50 back on the 2000s, I only displayed the code number you had to look it up in a book or online and would reset codes. It only read the ECM codes. Then I bought a Actron CP9680 for about $150 back before the pandemic so some time around 2018. It reads more than just ECM, and gives a verbal description of the error code and real time data and graphs for things like the O2 sensor so you can actually check Cats. You can find this on ebay for around $100 (I personally think that's a bit high. I'd offer about $70 and haggle.) Actron has a CP9660 for $100. That looks pretty good: Pep Boys has this unit for $60 on line: https://www.pepboys.com/actron-pocketscan-plus-scan-tool/product/1772636 In one of the reviews the reviewer also talks about the CP9670 but it's expensive about $175. This looks pretty good on ebay: BOSCH 1200 Enhanced Auto Scanner OBD II CAN ABS SRS LIVE DATA Scan Tool https://www.ebay.com/itm/324086425966?epid=1338125210&hash=item4b750e696e:g:lnIAAOSwFNZWz2MK&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4G0n7UcKF3rvJFyev6PRUbBD1VlroZnqZFAWrkoPwaVMAinwL8Okgg4W3pbuX0g37G%2FE7ma84%2BL4VoQmp4LTJ%2BMRSXltHFmUFeXAMrkOqFdBKPHJ1w6FIOcWJ%2FG%2BcparVCQxUkG2xq%2B%2FV8mvD%2B7%2F%2FC88V1PbYa8kuDThEznMuTB4s%2FKOugeGQXfYb3QNksw14Wxex7ujSDYqJC4YCcB8XFw6VxlqD7yd9SfD%2BKVSzfMJUs14JRdvhCIvD8KGoHdS3LAlBv0u9vLB8nKVjVN5LHbiUOwYz%2FneFoImlAVycT9C%7Ctkp%3ABFBMsNmlhK5j . with free shipping. JohnT, John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net mailto:jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 & 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic 65 Volvo P1800 Morgan: http://autox.team.net/morgan/ Bricklin: http://www.bricklin.org/ If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! >From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy: e pluribus Unum, "from many, one." In God We Trust Liberty - the power of choosing, thinking, and acting for oneself; freedom from control or restriction -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrochlin at comcast.net Sat Feb 3 13:26:10 2024 From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Robert Rochlin) Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2024 16:26:10 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Inexpensive OBD-II Scanner In-Reply-To: <3f49deed-670b-4045-bbd7-0a7c370101d6@earthlink.net> References: <3f49deed-670b-4045-bbd7-0a7c370101d6@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <7711E025-D71C-4333-AE0C-BD2D48BACC50@comcast.net> I have an Innova 5610 which is a medium pricery scanner, but with cost comes greater capability. I bit the bullet and bought this scanner when I had mutable codes come up on my BMW Z4. The scanner picked up all the codes and allowed me to do the repairs myself. Since then the 5410 has identified codes and, once repaired, erase them. Innova also has excellent customer support by very knowledgeable techs. I?ve saved the cost of the scanner a couple of times over at this point on repairs I was able to identify and repair. Also, Innova does periodic firmware updates. The Harbor freight Zurich 15s that Brian refers to looks suspiciously like the Innova 5610? Best, Bob > On Feb 3, 2024, at 2:09?PM, Brian Kemp wrote: > > As a basic scanner, I have an older version of this: > https://www.harborfreight.com/obd-ii-code-reader-64981.html > > Read and reset codes on several cars. Helped me understand (with internet research) if the code was something I could resolve or something the dealer needed to address. Paid about $35, similar to the above reader. You do have to drill down on menus because there are only two buttons. Pay $60 and you can get more buttons and a more detailed display so the reader is likely to be easier to use. > > If you go up to the $320 reader, grab the coupon from https://www.harborfreight.com/coupons to save some money. > > Brian > > On 2/3/2024 9:08 AM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: >> I have a 2012 Ford F-150 that throws a code. It's been to the dealer and repaired, then it threw the code again 5 months 3000 miles later. The dealer had it for a week and reset it and couldn't find a fault. Now, another 1500 miles and it's come back. >> >> N.B. Changing the battery also threw a code (the light went off after driving for a while, but it still shows on the scanner). >> >> I have a few suggestions to try and fix it, but I'm looking for something to read and reset the codes with. I can get my FLAPS to read it, but they are reluctant to reset it sometimes. I see readers on Amazon for $15 and up, but I'm willing to pay for a quality tool as long as it isn't stupid expensive. >> >> Any suggestions? >> >> Jeff the S >> Corrosion Acres, Ga. >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net >> > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rrochlin at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org Sat Feb 3 13:51:14 2024 From: mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org (Jimmie Mayfield) Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2024 15:51:14 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Inexpensive OBD-II Scanner In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I bought a Bluetooth ODB-II dongle on Amazon for maybe $15 and then installed a couple apps on my phone before I settled on using Car Scanner ELM. J On 2/3/24 12:08, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > I have a 2012 Ford F-150 that throws a code.? It's been to the dealer > and repaired, then it threw the code again 5 months 3000 miles later.? > The dealer had it for a week and reset it and couldn't find a fault.? > Now, another 1500 miles and it's come back. > > N.B. Changing the battery also threw a code (the light went off after > driving for a while, but it still shows on the scanner). > > I have a few suggestions to try and fix it, but I'm looking for > something to read and reset the codes with.? I can get my FLAPS to > read it, but they are reluctant to reset it sometimes.? I see readers > on Amazon for $15 and up, but I'm willing to pay for a quality tool as > long as it isn't stupid expensive. > > Any suggestions? > > Jeff the S > Corrosion Acres, Ga. From rkg at teleport.com Sat Feb 3 15:02:53 2024 From: rkg at teleport.com (Richard George) Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2024 14:02:53 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Inexpensive OBD-II Scanner In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2e9ea169-5631-49a0-8479-93fe6185b6f6@teleport.com> I've seen this recommended as a good unit (I actually bought one a little while ago, but I haven't had the time to try it yet): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00652G4TS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Best, rkg (Richard George) On 2/3/2024 9:08 AM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > I have a 2012 Ford F-150 that throws a code.? It's been to the dealer > and repaired, then it threw the code again 5 months 3000 miles later.? > The dealer had it for a week and reset it and couldn't find a fault.? > Now, another 1500 miles and it's come back. > > N.B. Changing the battery also threw a code (the light went off after > driving for a while, but it still shows on the scanner). > > I have a few suggestions to try and fix it, but I'm looking for > something to read and reset the codes with.? I can get my FLAPS to > read it, but they are reluctant to reset it sometimes.? I see readers > on Amazon for $15 and up, but I'm willing to pay for a quality tool as > long as it isn't stupid expensive. > > Any suggestions? > > Jeff the S > Corrosion Acres, Ga. > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rkg at teleport.com > From eric at megageek.com Sat Feb 3 15:19:35 2024 From: eric at megageek.com (Moose) Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2024 17:19:35 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Inexpensive OBD-II Scanner In-Reply-To: <7711E025-D71C-4333-AE0C-BD2D48BACC50@comcast.net> References: <3f49deed-670b-4045-bbd7-0a7c370101d6@earthlink.net> <7711E025-D71C-4333-AE0C-BD2D48BACC50@comcast.net> Message-ID: Not to hi-jack a thread, but I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for an excellent scanner up to $500? I have a few of the model specific ones, but I was wondering if there is something much better. I know the Snap on and such get into the multi-thousands, and I am not interested in that. TIA Moose -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From patintexas at icloud.com Sat Feb 3 15:38:56 2024 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2024 16:38:56 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Inexpensive OBD-II Scanner In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4FC71833-1960-4C48-B497-E27FE5AACA29@icloud.com> I picked up a low end scanner from FIXD. It?s basic, doesn?t do brake controllers but did well on several cars for engine stuff & resets the check engine error. They have them on sale quite often for under $20. It runs an app on your phone via Bluetooth. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Feb 3, 2024, at 11:36?AM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: ? I have a 2012 Ford F-150 that throws a code. It's been to the dealer and repaired, then it threw the code again 5 months 3000 miles later. The dealer had it for a week and reset it and couldn't find a fault. Now, another 1500 miles and it's come back. N.B. Changing the battery also threw a code (the light went off after driving for a while, but it still shows on the scanner). I have a few suggestions to try and fix it, but I'm looking for something to read and reset the codes with. I can get my FLAPS to read it, but they are reluctant to reset it sometimes. I see readers on Amazon for $15 and up, but I'm willing to pay for a quality tool as long as it isn't stupid expensive. Any suggestions? Jeff the S Corrosion Acres, Ga. _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com From rande90 at gmail.com Sat Feb 3 16:54:34 2024 From: rande90 at gmail.com (RandE) Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2024 17:54:34 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Inexpensive OBD-II Scanner In-Reply-To: <2e9ea169-5631-49a0-8479-93fe6185b6f6@teleport.com> References: <2e9ea169-5631-49a0-8479-93fe6185b6f6@teleport.com> Message-ID: I have this Foxwell that I bought several years ago after a recommendation on Grassroots Motorsports forum. I bought it specifically because it can diagnose ABS codes. It also has free updates. Plug it into your computer and use the included software to install any available updates. Since then I've bought other Foxwell products and been happy with them. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CSMJJK9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Randy On Sat, Feb 3, 2024 at 5:43?PM Richard George wrote: > I've seen this recommended as a good unit (I actually bought one a > little while ago, but I haven't had the time to try it yet): > > > https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00652G4TS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 > > Best, > > rkg > > (Richard George) > > On 2/3/2024 9:08 AM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > > I have a 2012 Ford F-150 that throws a code. It's been to the dealer > > and repaired, then it threw the code again 5 months 3000 miles later. > > The dealer had it for a week and reset it and couldn't find a fault. > > Now, another 1500 miles and it's come back. > > > > N.B. Changing the battery also threw a code (the light went off after > > driving for a while, but it still shows on the scanner). > > > > I have a few suggestions to try and fix it, but I'm looking for > > something to read and reset the codes with. I can get my FLAPS to > > read it, but they are reluctant to reset it sometimes. I see readers > > on Amazon for $15 and up, but I'm willing to pay for a quality tool as > > long as it isn't stupid expensive. > > > > Any suggestions? > > > > Jeff the S > > Corrosion Acres, Ga. > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rkg at teleport.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rande at pobox.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Feb 3 20:10:08 2024 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2024 19:10:08 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Inexpensive OBD-II Scanner In-Reply-To: <4FC71833-1960-4C48-B497-E27FE5AACA29@icloud.com> References: <4FC71833-1960-4C48-B497-E27FE5AACA29@icloud.com> Message-ID: Another option, popular with the young'ns--is FORScan (pronounced 'foreskin' or so I'm told). It's a Windows app suitable for a laptop and pretty comprehensive.? S/W is free/shareware, but a license opens doors. It's written by Russians, I believe (so far my laptop hasn't tried to invade my neighbors). I bought it to diagnose a no-start on my Lincoln, which ended-up being caused by a dead fuel pump, which didn't throw a code (you'd think it would have thrown 'low fuel pressure,' but I got it by process of elimination) . It can modify some pretty obscure parameters. You need a dongle, of course, this one is recommended: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081VQVD3F/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=A1C2436WDJ39HA&psc=1 On 2/3/2024 2:38 PM, Pat Horne wrote: > I picked up a low end scanner from FIXD. It?s basic, doesn?t do brake controllers but did well on several cars for engine stuff & resets the check engine error. They have them on sale quite often for under $20. It runs an app on your phone via Bluetooth. > Peace, Pat > > Pat Horne > We support Habitat for Humanity > > > On Feb 3, 2024, at 11:36?AM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > > ? > I have a 2012 Ford F-150 that throws a code. It's been to the dealer and repaired, then it threw the code again 5 months 3000 miles later. The dealer had it for a week and reset it and couldn't find a fault. Now, another 1500 miles and it's come back. > > N.B. Changing the battery also threw a code (the light went off after driving for a while, but it still shows on the scanner). > > I have a few suggestions to try and fix it, but I'm looking for something to read and reset the codes with. I can get my FLAPS to read it, but they are reluctant to reset it sometimes. I see readers on Amazon for $15 and up, but I'm willing to pay for a quality tool as long as it isn't stupid expensive. > > Any suggestions? > > Jeff the S > Corrosion Acres, Ga. > _______________________________________________ > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dmscheidt at gmail.com Mon Feb 5 09:28:57 2024 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2024 10:28:57 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Inexpensive OBD-II Scanner In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > On Feb 3, 2024, at 17:57, Moose wrote: > > ?Not to hi-jack a thread, but I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for an excellent scanner up to $500? > > I have a few of the model specific ones, but I was wondering if there is something much better. There are a bunch of pretty nice scanners in that range, from launch, thinktools, and topdon. (And no doubt others. ) it?s very hard to keep track of what is what, because the models change all the time, and what the best deal is varies. I?ve used scanners from the three companies mentioned, they all did the things I wanted. I own a topdon (I don?t know the exact model, I could figure it out, but I am sure it is discontinued.) because it was on sale when I bought one. Watch out for the length of support and updates included, you will see the same tool with different included support options, at different prices. Figure out what you need, and for what makes, and shop based on that. Bidirectional tests are pretty much table stakes for most real diagnostic testing, and depending on what you work on, module programming may be required. Or not. Also: this is not a buy for life tool. Whatever you buy will be obsolete in a couple years. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jniolon at att.net Wed Feb 14 13:28:32 2024 From: jniolon at att.net (john) Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2024 14:28:32 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Geneeral Motors Active Fuel Management (DOD) problem References: <1UhQJrLeWH.1bH2IvfZJjs.ref@johns-desktop> Message-ID: <1UhQJrLeWH.1bH2IvfZJjs@johns-desktop> Does anyone have any experience with the GM DOD system ? Specifically deleting by software or the WWW-offered module that eliminates the dropping to V4 under light load. I lost an engine due to this problem at 130K and replaced it with a Jasper crate engine that does have the DOD included. Need some guidance from some that have hands on experience with this. Does the Module that plugs into the BOD plug actually work and is it safe OR is a software tune required?? or must I go thru the tear down and install of a delete kit thanks john -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jdinnis at gmail.com Wed Feb 14 14:30:57 2024 From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis) Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2024 15:30:57 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Geneeral Motors Active Fuel Management (DOD) problem In-Reply-To: <1UhQJrLeWH.1bH2IvfZJjs@johns-desktop> References: <1UhQJrLeWH.1bH2IvfZJjs.ref@johns-desktop> <1UhQJrLeWH.1bH2IvfZJjs@johns-desktop> Message-ID: In my experience, it is a combination of things that cause issues with the AFM system. The first (and in my opinion most common) is not doing proper maintenance. A conservative oil change interval with a good quality engine oil seems to go a long way to heading off issues with AFM on the LS motors. The next biggest issue in my opinion is the quality of the lifters that GM used from the factory. I have had several engine builders that I trust say that using a better quality aftermarket lifter in the AFM valves is the best insurance you can buy on a build. Therein is the biggest issue with many of the DOD delete methods being offered. They frequently only address the ECU, taking the AFM out of the tune. This will NOT solve issues caused by low quality lifters failing when AFM is not activated, it can still happen. I don't have experience with the plug in modules, so I can't say if they are safe or not, but like the tune, they don't address the potential problems in the lifters. I also don't know that much about what Jasper is putting in their remans, so I can't say if they are going to cause you problems or not. On Wed, Feb 14, 2024 at 3:08?PM john wrote: > Does anyone have any experience with the GM DOD system ? Specifically > deleting by software or the WWW-offered module that eliminates > the dropping to V4 under light load. > > I lost an engine due to this problem at 130K and replaced it with a Jasper > crate engine that does have the DOD included. > > Need some guidance from some that have hands on experience with this. > Does the Module that plugs into the BOD plug actually work and is it safe > > OR is a software tune required?? or must I go thru the tear down and > install of a delete kit > > thanks > john > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com > > -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Sat Feb 17 10:13:28 2024 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2024 12:13:28 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Makita Ni-Cd Batteries Message-ID: Another question for the folks who can't throw anything away... I have an old Makita 6201D drill motor with 9V 9101 batteries. Must be over 30 years old. One of the batteries finally stopped taking a charge, and the other one charges but won't hold a charge very long - always needs a charge before use. I can spend $35 on a pair of new batteries, or I can spend $35 on a Ryobi One+ 3/8 drill kit with battery that fits all my other Ryobi tools. Someone please tell me I'm overthinking this, and suggest a way to find a proper home or resting place for my old Maktita workhorse. Jeff the S Corrosion Acres, Ga. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Sat Feb 17 11:48:18 2024 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2024 18:48:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] Makita Ni-Cd Batteries In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1894722298.3766171.1708195698295@mail.yahoo.com> That sounds like the Makita I have.? (The label came off so I'm not sure of the model)? My NICAD battery gave up the ghost so I bought some Lithium batteries to fit.? They had twice the A-H and worked well EXCEPT (there's always an EXCEPT, isn't there) those batteries and a BMS (Battery Management System) built in so that they would play nice with the NICAD charger.? Being cheap replacement batteries the BMS was also cheap and the batteries would self-discharge OVERNIGHT!? Kind of eliminates this tool for impromptu projects. I broke down and bought a Milwaukee drill/impact set (M12) which can sit for months and still have fully charged batteries. Anybody want a Makita 9V battery drill with two batteries? Dave On Saturday, February 17, 2024 at 11:53:13 AM CST, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: Another question for the folks who can't throw anything away... I have an old Makita 6201D drill motor with 9V 9101 batteries.? Must be over 30 years old.? One of the batteries finally stopped taking a charge, and the other one charges but won't hold a charge very long - always needs a charge before use. I can spend $35 on a pair of new batteries, or I can spend $35 on a Ryobi One+ 3/8 drill kit with battery that fits all my other Ryobi tools. Someone please tell me I'm overthinking this, and suggest a way to find a proper home or resting place for my old Maktita workhorse. Jeff the SCorrosion Acres, Ga._______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From james.f.juhas at snet.net Sat Feb 17 12:27:38 2024 From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas) Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2024 14:27:38 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Makita Ni-Cd Batteries In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <596790D3-4113-42F8-A2BE-23CD8C86694A@snet.net> The older battery powered drills have batteries that can be disassembled and reassembled without damaging them so that you can rebuild with new cells. I have done just that with one of my favorite Craftsman drills. Often there are higher capacity batteries available enabling the build of longer lasting batteries at the expense of longer charge times and upgrades from Nicad to NiMH. Onlybatteries.com is my go to choice for materials. Sent from my iPhone > On Feb 17, 2024, at 12:49?PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > > ? > Another question for the folks who can't throw anything away... > > I have an old Makita 6201D drill motor with 9V 9101 batteries. Must be over 30 years old. One of the batteries finally stopped taking a charge, and the other one charges but won't hold a charge very long - always needs a charge before use. > > I can spend $35 on a pair of new batteries, or I can spend $35 on a Ryobi One+ 3/8 drill kit with battery that fits all my other Ryobi tools. > > Someone please tell me I'm overthinking this, and suggest a way to find a proper home or resting place for my old Maktita workhorse. > > Jeff the S > Corrosion Acres, Ga. > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/james.f.juhas at snet.net > From doug at dougbraun.com Sat Feb 17 12:29:45 2024 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2024 14:29:45 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Makita Ni-Cd Batteries In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Maybe you could so something like this? [image: drill.jpg] On Sat, Feb 17, 2024 at 12:57?PM Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > Another question for the folks who can't throw anything away... > > I have an old Makita 6201D drill motor with 9V 9101 batteries. Must be > over 30 years old. One of the batteries finally stopped taking a charge, > and the other one charges but won't hold a charge very long - always needs > a charge before use. > > I can spend $35 on a pair of new batteries, or I can spend $35 on a Ryobi > One+ 3/8 drill kit with battery that fits all my other Ryobi tools. > > Someone please tell me I'm overthinking this, and suggest a way to find a > proper home or resting place for my old Maktita workhorse. > > Jeff the S > Corrosion Acres, Ga. > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug at dougbraun.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: drill.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 595692 bytes Desc: not available URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Sat Feb 17 14:51:23 2024 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2024 16:51:23 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Makita Ni-Cd Batteries In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: It's a 9V drill and all I have is 18V batteries. I'm night spin a little too fast for me. On Sat, Feb 17, 2024, 14:29 Doug Braun wrote: > Maybe you could so something like this? > > [image: drill.jpg] > > > > On Sat, Feb 17, 2024 at 12:57?PM Jeff Scarbrough > wrote: > >> Another question for the folks who can't throw anything away... >> >> I have an old Makita 6201D drill motor with 9V 9101 batteries. Must be >> over 30 years old. One of the batteries finally stopped taking a charge, >> and the other one charges but won't hold a charge very long - always needs >> a charge before use. >> >> I can spend $35 on a pair of new batteries, or I can spend $35 on a Ryobi >> One+ 3/8 drill kit with battery that fits all my other Ryobi tools. >> >> Someone please tell me I'm overthinking this, and suggest a way to find a >> proper home or resting place for my old Maktita workhorse. >> >> Jeff the S >> Corrosion Acres, Ga. >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug at dougbraun.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: drill.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 595692 bytes Desc: not available URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Sat Feb 17 14:54:47 2024 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2024 16:54:47 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Makita Ni-Cd Batteries In-Reply-To: <596790D3-4113-42F8-A2BE-23CD8C86694A@snet.net> References: <596790D3-4113-42F8-A2BE-23CD8C86694A@snet.net> Message-ID: I've looked around to see how this one comes apart and I can't see an easy way. I found a battery "repair kit" that costs as much as a "rebuilt" battery, or an aftermarket one. It's a shame, because this is a good solid tool, and I hate to just recycle it. I'll probably put it on Nextdoor and see if someone else wants to mess with it. On Sat, Feb 17, 2024, 14:28 Jim Juhas wrote: > The older battery powered drills have batteries that can be disassembled > and reassembled without damaging them so that you can rebuild with new > cells. I have done just that with one of my favorite Craftsman drills. > Often there are higher capacity batteries available enabling the build of > longer lasting batteries at the expense of longer charge times and upgrades > from Nicad to NiMH. Onlybatteries.com is my go to choice for materials. > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Feb 17, 2024, at 12:49?PM, Jeff Scarbrough > wrote: > > > > ? > > Another question for the folks who can't throw anything away... > > > > I have an old Makita 6201D drill motor with 9V 9101 batteries. Must be > over 30 years old. One of the batteries finally stopped taking a charge, > and the other one charges but won't hold a charge very long - always needs > a charge before use. > > > > I can spend $35 on a pair of new batteries, or I can spend $35 on a > Ryobi One+ 3/8 drill kit with battery that fits all my other Ryobi tools. > > > > Someone please tell me I'm overthinking this, and suggest a way to find > a proper home or resting place for my old Maktita workhorse. > > > > Jeff the S > > Corrosion Acres, Ga. > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/james.f.juhas at snet.net > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alfuller194 at gmail.com Sat Feb 17 19:03:11 2024 From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com) Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2024 18:03:11 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Makita Ni-Cd Batteries In-Reply-To: References: <596790D3-4113-42F8-A2BE-23CD8C86694A@snet.net> Message-ID: <26cb01da620e$a0a3e250$e1eba6f0$@gmail.com> I had to make this same decision some time ago. It killed me to recycle the tool because it worked just fine apart from the battery issue, but I did wind up parting with the Makita and getting a Ryobi drill motor and battery. My advice is you pinch your nose and do the same. That said, I now have several Ryobi tools that all work on the same batteries and chargers and life is a lot simpler. Related ? don?t forget that Home Depot has its sale ?Ryobi Days? once or twice a year where you can usually pick up bundles of tools/batteries/chargers at substantial discounts from the usual price. ----------------------------------- All the best, Al Fuller From: Shop-talk On Behalf Of Jeff Scarbrough Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2024 1:55 PM To: Jim Juhas Cc: shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Makita Ni-Cd Batteries I've looked around to see how this one comes apart and I can't see an easy way. I found a battery "repair kit" that costs as much as a "rebuilt" battery, or an aftermarket one. It's a shame, because this is a good solid tool, and I hate to just recycle it. I'll probably put it on Nextdoor and see if someone else wants to mess with it. On Sat, Feb 17, 2024, 14:28 Jim Juhas > wrote: The older battery powered drills have batteries that can be disassembled and reassembled without damaging them so that you can rebuild with new cells. I have done just that with one of my favorite Craftsman drills. Often there are higher capacity batteries available enabling the build of longer lasting batteries at the expense of longer charge times and upgrades from Nicad to NiMH. Onlybatteries.com is my go to choice for materials. Sent from my iPhone > On Feb 17, 2024, at 12:49?PM, Jeff Scarbrough > wrote: > > ? > Another question for the folks who can't throw anything away... > > I have an old Makita 6201D drill motor with 9V 9101 batteries. Must be over 30 years old. One of the batteries finally stopped taking a charge, and the other one charges but won't hold a charge very long - always needs a charge before use. > > I can spend $35 on a pair of new batteries, or I can spend $35 on a Ryobi One+ 3/8 drill kit with battery that fits all my other Ryobi tools. > > Someone please tell me I'm overthinking this, and suggest a way to find a proper home or resting place for my old Maktita workhorse. > > Jeff the S > Corrosion Acres, Ga. > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/james.f.juhas at snet.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eric at megageek.com Tue Feb 20 18:01:50 2024 From: eric at megageek.com (Moose) Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2024 20:01:50 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Lucas Transmission Fix Message-ID: Guy, I have a 2007 Dodge 3500 dualie diesel and it currently has a transmission leak. 2 different truck mechanics expressed concerns with part availability if they take it apart to fix it. This truck is my personal dive rescue truck (see photo.) So it normally has the camper loaded with gear. It also tows lighter boats and jet skis. Here is my question, do I try Lucas Transmission Fix? Or do I take my chances and have a place tear into this truck's transmission? (will they be able to get the parts to fix it? Thanks in advance. Moose -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: doss.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4607568 bytes Desc: not available URL: From dirtbeard at gmail.com Wed Feb 21 05:53:33 2024 From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard) Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2024 04:53:33 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Lucas Transmission Fix In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Moose, First off let me say that I am not experienced with Ram and do not speak from any hands-on knowledge. Generally speaking, I am surprised that there would be parts availability issues for a 2007 transmission. Maybe yours was a more limited, heavy-duty run or something. Is it a module or valve leaking or a gasket/seal issue? Lucas might work, but I believe it plugs leaks by either softening seal rubbers or by floating some paticulants in the oil that hopefully/eventually find their way into the leak. My guess is that it may work, or may reduce the leak, but that it would not be a permanent fix. If the leak is not too bad, perhaps just live with it, put a drip tray under it like we do with many/most of our old British cars. ;-) Or if you want to open it up, you might want to try to source the likely necessary parts before you commence work. There also may be used parts availability. Maybe pick-up a used transmission from a salvage yard to swap in or to use for parts?. It is disappointing to me that parts are a problem for a US vehicle that is this new. I can still source most any parts I need for my 70-year-old MG TF. I do wish you the best with this one, Moose. doug On Tue, Feb 20, 2024 at 11:09?PM Moose wrote: > Guy, > > I have a 2007 Dodge 3500 dualie diesel and it currently has a transmission > leak. > > 2 different truck mechanics expressed concerns with part availability if > they take it apart to fix it. > > This truck is my personal dive rescue truck (see photo.) So it normally > has the camper loaded with gear. It also tows lighter boats and jet skis. > > Here is my question, do I try Lucas Transmission Fix? > > Or do I take my chances and have a place tear into this truck's > transmission? (will they be able to get the parts to fix it? > > > > Thanks in advance. > > Moose_______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eric at megageek.com Wed Feb 21 06:13:29 2024 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2024 08:13:29 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Lucas Transmission Fix In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Doug, Thanks for the advice. It is a leak from the front seal of the main transmission housing. I'm not sure if both places just didn't want to tackle it or if there is something hard to find with this tranny. I do the 'drip tray' already. But as a rescue truck, I do drive it in higher waters, on beaches and boardwalks and such. I'd rather not leave a trail. 8>) It also has the dreaded main seal leak (as does my 2003 Ford 350 duallie diesel.) I'm going to try ST-201 leak stop on that as it did really well on Project farm. I'm not so worried about it not being perment, or if it doesn't work. I'm just worried about if it can cause MORE damage. Thanks again. Moose From: old dirtbeard To: Moose Cc: Shop-talk at autox.team.net Date: 02/21/2024 07:53 AM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Lucas Transmission Fix Hi Moose, First off let me say that I am not experienced with Ram and do not speak from any hands-on knowledge. Generally speaking, I am surprised that there would be parts availability issues for a 2007 transmission. Maybe yours was a more limited, heavy-duty run or something. Is it a module or valve leaking or a gasket/seal issue? Lucas might work, but I believe it plugs leaks by either softening seal rubbers or by floating some paticulants in the oil that hopefully/eventually find their way into the leak. My guess is that it may work, or may reduce the leak, but that it would not be a permanent fix. If the leak is not too bad, perhaps just live with it, put a drip tray under it like we do with many/most of our old British cars. ;-) Or if you want to open it up, you might want to try to source the likely necessary parts before you commence work. There also may be used parts availability. Maybe pick-up a used transmission from a salvage yard to swap in or to use for parts?. It is disappointing to me that parts are a problem for a US vehicle that is this new. I can still source most any parts I need for my 70-year-old MG TF. I do wish you the best with this one, Moose. doug On Tue, Feb 20, 2024 at 11:09?PM Moose wrote: Guy, I have a 2007 Dodge 3500 dualie diesel and it currently has a transmission leak. 2 different truck mechanics expressed concerns with part availability if they take it apart to fix it. This truck is my personal dive rescue truck (see photo.) So it normally has the camper loaded with gear. It also tows lighter boats and jet skis. Here is my question, do I try Lucas Transmission Fix? Or do I take my chances and have a place tear into this truck's transmission? (will they be able to get the parts to fix it? Thanks in advance. Moose_______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dirtbeard at gmail.com Wed Feb 21 06:30:14 2024 From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard) Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2024 05:30:14 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Lucas Transmission Fix In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Moose, Yes, when someone does not want to take your money for doing the work they normally would do, that says something. If it is just a seal, though, Dodge almost certainly bought the seals from some company that makes them. Perhaps you could find the specs for the seal and look-up industrial supply companies and try to match it? We do this for bearings and seals for the old British stuff. Again, though, if the repair garages do not want to work on it, there probably is some sound reason(s). I have an engine rear main seal leak on my '03 GMC Savana and used a seal leak additive which did stop the leak for a while, but it has returned. I am not 100% positive that it was the source of the problem, but after adding the stop-leak to the engine oil, I noticed that my oil pressure started to drop noticeably and I eventually started hearing lifter noise. I changed the oil filter (it was a Champion filter) and the pressure immediately went back to normal. I swore I would never use another Champion filter as they apparently do not have an effective bypass valve in them.I thought the problem was filter-related. After a few months of local driving (a few hundred miles) I noticed the oil pressure was dropping again, I again replaced the filter and the oil pressure went back to normal. I cannot prove it, but I believe the stop leak was plugging the filter as well as plugging the leak. It made me very cautious about using anything like this again. best, doug On Wed, Feb 21, 2024 at 5:13?AM wrote: > Doug, > > Thanks for the advice. It is a leak from the front seal of the main > transmission housing. I'm not sure if both places just didn't want to > tackle it or if there is something hard to find with this tranny. > > I do the 'drip tray' already. But as a rescue truck, I do drive it in > higher waters, on beaches and boardwalks and such. I'd rather not leave a > trail. 8>) > > It also has the dreaded main seal leak (as does my 2003 Ford 350 duallie > diesel.) I'm going to try ST-201 leak stop on that as it did really well > on Project farm. > > I'm not so worried about it not being perment, or if it doesn't work. I'm > just worried about if it can cause MORE damage. > > Thanks again. > > Moose > > > > > From: old dirtbeard > To: Moose > Cc: Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Date: 02/21/2024 07:53 AM > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Lucas Transmission Fix > ------------------------------ > > > > Hi Moose, > > First off let me say that I am not experienced with Ram and do not speak > from any hands-on knowledge. > > Generally speaking, I am surprised that there would be parts availability > issues for a 2007 transmission. Maybe yours was a more limited, heavy-duty > run or something. > > Is it a module or valve leaking or a gasket/seal issue? > > Lucas might work, but I believe it plugs leaks by either softening seal > rubbers or by floating some paticulants in the oil that > hopefully/eventually find their way into the leak. > > My guess is that it may work, or may reduce the leak, but that it would > not be a permanent fix. > > If the leak is not too bad, perhaps just live with it, put a drip tray > under it like we do with many/most of our old British cars. ;-) > > Or if you want to open it up, you might want to try to source the likely > necessary parts before you commence work. > > There also may be used parts availability. Maybe pick-up a used > transmission from a salvage yard to swap in or to use for parts?. > > It is disappointing to me that parts are a problem for a US vehicle that > is this new. I can still source most any parts I need for my 70-year-old MG > TF. > > I do wish you the best with this one, Moose. > > doug > > > On Tue, Feb 20, 2024 at 11:09?PM Moose <*eric at megageek.com* > > wrote: > Guy, > > I have a 2007 Dodge 3500 dualie diesel and it currently has a transmission > leak. > > 2 different truck mechanics expressed concerns with part availability if > they take it apart to fix it. > > This truck is my personal dive rescue truck (see photo.) So it normally > has the camper loaded with gear. It also tows lighter boats and jet skis. > > Here is my question, do I try Lucas Transmission Fix? > > Or do I take my chances and have a place tear into this truck's > transmission? (will they be able to get the parts to fix it? > > > > Thanks in advance. > > Moose_______________________________________________ > > *Shop-talk at autox.team.net* > Donate: *http://www.team.net/donate.html* > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: *http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk* > *http://autox.team.net/archive* > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > *http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com* > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mbarre at juno.com Wed Feb 21 08:04:45 2024 From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2024 15:04:45 GMT Subject: [Shop-talk] Lucas Transmission Fix Message-ID: <20240221.100445.2185.0@webmail01.vgs.untd.com> Nice looking rig Moose! I sold my slide in when I left Alaska. I like the front bumper. Looks just like my 97 12 valve with 5 speed. Like Doug I am shocked that there are supportability concerns. I would think some of the ram forums would help clarify that concern. Perhaps the VIN can identify exactly what model trans you have. I doubt there is much downside to trying the Lucas addative. Good luck and keep us in the loop on it! I am aboyt to dump a load of $$ into mine. It has been neglected but still soldiers on. Matt ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Moose To: Shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: [Shop-talk] Lucas Transmission Fix Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2024 20:01:50 -0500 Guy, I have a 2007 Dodge 3500 dualie diesel and it currently has a transmission leak. 2 different truck mechanics expressed concerns with part availability if they take it apart to fix it. This truck is my personal dive rescue truck (see photo.) So it normally has the camper loaded with gear. It also tows lighter boats and jet skis. Here is my question, do I try Lucas Transmission Fix? Or do I take my chances and have a place tear into this truck's transmission? (will they be able to get the parts to fix it? Thanks in advance. Moose From eric at megageek.com Wed Feb 21 08:47:31 2024 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2024 10:47:31 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Lucas Transmission Fix In-Reply-To: <20240221.100445.2185.0@webmail01.vgs.untd.com> References: <20240221.100445.2185.0@webmail01.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: Matt, Doug and everyone else. Thanks for the advice. I ordered a bottle and let you all know how it goes. I really hate leaks in any equipment. In fact I wish all mechanical engines didn't need any fluids at all! 8>) I'll be supporting a Polar Plunge on Sat, so I'll wait until after that to add it. Should know by next week. Thanks again. Moose From: "Matt" To: eric at megageek.com Cc: Shop-talk at autox.team.net Date: 02/21/2024 10:05 AM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Lucas Transmission Fix Nice looking rig Moose! I sold my slide in when I left Alaska. I like the front bumper. Looks just like my 97 12 valve with 5 speed. Like Doug I am shocked that there are supportability concerns. I would think some of the ram forums would help clarify that concern. Perhaps the VIN can identify exactly what model trans you have. I doubt there is much downside to trying the Lucas addative. Good luck and keep us in the loop on it! I am aboyt to dump a load of $$ into mine. It has been neglected but still soldiers on. Matt ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Moose To: Shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: [Shop-talk] Lucas Transmission Fix Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2024 20:01:50 -0500 Guy, I have a 2007 Dodge 3500 dualie diesel and it currently has a transmission leak. 2 different truck mechanics expressed concerns with part availability if they take it apart to fix it. This truck is my personal dive rescue truck (see photo.) So it normally has the camper loaded with gear. It also tows lighter boats and jet skis. Here is my question, do I try Lucas Transmission Fix? Or do I take my chances and have a place tear into this truck's transmission? (will they be able to get the parts to fix it? Thanks in advance. Moose -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From szwedj at gmail.com Wed Feb 21 13:38:42 2024 From: szwedj at gmail.com (Joe Szwed) Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2024 15:38:42 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Lucas Transmission Fix In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Personally, I have had good luck with some of Lucas's products and I wouldn't hesitate to see if it helps. But that is just based on my own experience. Joe > Message: 1 > Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2024 20:01:50 -0500 > From: Moose > To: Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Subject: [Shop-talk] Lucas Transmission Fix > Message-ID: > < > OF96D9798E.A8983E0F-ON85258ACA.000527F7-85258ACA.0005AA44 at mail.megageek.com > > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Guy, > > I have a 2007 Dodge 3500 dualie diesel and it currently has a transmission > leak. > > 2 different truck mechanics expressed concerns with part availability if > they take it apart to fix it. > > This truck is my personal dive rescue truck (see photo.) So it normally > has the camper loaded with gear. It also tows lighter boats and jet skis. > > Here is my question, do I try Lucas Transmission Fix? > > Or do I take my chances and have a place tear into this truck's > transmission? (will they be able to get the parts to fix it? > > > > Thanks in advance. > > Moose > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dmscheidt at gmail.com Wed Feb 21 23:22:17 2024 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2024 22:22:17 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Lucas Transmission Fix In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2D3EE0B3-449A-4F94-A151-1FF98CBFBBE4@gmail.com> > On Feb 21, 2024, at 07:03, old dirtbeard wrote: > > ? > Hi Moose, > > Yes, when someone does not want to take your money for doing the work they normally would do, that says something. > > If it is just a seal, though, Dodge almost certainly bought the seals from some company that makes them. Perhaps you could find the specs for the seal and look-up industrial supply companies and try to match it? We do this for bearings and seals for the old British stuff. > There are a whole lot of parts that are basically impossible to get on newish vehicles[1], but rebuild transmissions for both the G56 6 speed stick and the 68rfe seem to be readily available, if uncheap. If the truck has the g56, I?m not at all surprised that shops don?t want to touch it. It has a reputation for being hard to work on, it requires special tools for many jobs, and they are prone to catastrophic failure. [1] a high school acquaintance of mine had a fancy suv (a Lexus or Acura) totaled by an insurance company, after someone hit him in a parking lot. The only damage was the glass of one headlight was broken. A factory replacement was not available for 18 months, and he refused to having a used or aftermarket part installed (Indiana law gives you the right to insist on new parts, on cars less than 5(?) years old. ) The truck was only a year or so old, and still in production. for some reason, the insurance company did not want to pay for months of rental car, and totaled the car. This was near the peak of crazy used car prices, so they paid him substantially more than he gave the dealer for it. > Again, though, if the repair garages do not want to work on it, there probably is some sound reason(s). > > I have an engine rear main seal leak on my '03 GMC Savana and used a seal leak additive which did stop the leak for a while, but it has returned. > > > After a few months of local driving (a few hundred miles) I noticed the oil pressure was dropping again, I again replaced the filter and the oil pressure went back to normal. > > I cannot prove it, but I believe the stop leak was plugging the filter as well as plugging the leak. It made me very cautious about using anything like this again. This is totally consistent with how most stop leak products work. I would only use one on an engine that?s already toast. > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: