From jniolon at att.net  Sat Aug  3 09:28:33 2024
From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon)
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2024 10:28:33 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] freezer freezing in wrong place
References: <1UhagjfnCh.3EvoL9VF2gm.ref@johns-desktop>
Message-ID: <1UhagjfnCh.3EvoL9VF2gm@johns-desktop>

I have a Kenmore upright freezer (13 or 14 c.f.) that has started frosting up 
and making ice on the inside of the door ?. inside the door seal. It?s 
basically across the left side inside roof if the freezer and on the door in 
the same area? and down the open side of the door.
The seal looks good and it takes a little effort to open the door so I think 
it?s sealing properly, but maybe not
Before I start throwing parts at it? looking for probable causes.     
 
TIA
JOHN       
 
  
 
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From dirtbeard at gmail.com  Sat Aug  3 11:37:52 2024
From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard)
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2024 17:37:52 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] freezer freezing in wrong place
In-Reply-To: <1UhagjfnCh.3EvoL9VF2gm@johns-desktop>
References: <1UhagjfnCh.3EvoL9VF2gm.ref@johns-desktop>
 <1UhagjfnCh.3EvoL9VF2gm@johns-desktop>
Message-ID: <SA1P222MB02770D59D75A5226B8E8FFA7ABBC2@SA1P222MB0277.NAMP222.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>

I am no expert, but usually ice would indicate poor sealing and moist external air getting in and freezing.

Perhaps try wiping some silicone grease on the seal and then inspect the surface to determine the contract pattern?

If it takes a strong pull to open the door, though, that would seem a good seal as you already discussed.

Best,

Doug
mobile
________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of john niolon <jniolon at att.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 3, 2024 8:28:33 AM
To: shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] freezer freezing in wrong place


I have a Kenmore upright freezer (13 or 14 c.f.) that has started frosting up and making ice on the inside of the door ?. inside the door seal. It?s basically across the left side inside roof if the freezer and on the door in the same area? and down the open side of the door.

The seal looks good and it takes a little effort to open the door so I think it?s sealing properly, but maybe not

Before I start throwing parts at it? looking for probable causes.



TIA

JOHN



[cid:1UhagjfnCS.1BtIh6eMKH6 at johns-desktop]



[cid:1UhagjfnCS.2VBWB3Pd6hg at johns-desktop]
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From bk13 at earthlink.net  Sat Aug  3 11:44:02 2024
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2024 10:44:02 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] freezer freezing in wrong place
In-Reply-To: <1UhagjfnCh.3EvoL9VF2gm@johns-desktop>
References: <1UhagjfnCh.3EvoL9VF2gm.ref@johns-desktop>
 <1UhagjfnCh.3EvoL9VF2gm@johns-desktop>
Message-ID: <f034b222-ff38-4c91-a8aa-ad8d124d4d91@earthlink.net>

John - My first thought is a leaky seal - either because it is worn out 
or because the door wasn't all the way shut.? Warm moist air comes in 
and the moisture turns to the frost you are seeing.

After making sure nothing is keeping the door from shutting all the way, 
I'd take a piece of paper and close the door on the paper.? If it pulls 
out easily, that might indicate the seal is sealing.

Another option might be adjusting the hinges.? Perhaps someone pulls the 
fridge open from the top or hung on the door while open and shifted the 
hinge.

Good luck,

Brian

On 8/3/2024 8:28 AM, john niolon wrote:
>
> I have a Kenmore upright freezer (13 or 14 c.f.) that has started 
> frosting up and making ice on the inside of the door ?. inside the 
> door seal. It?s basically across the left side inside roof if the 
> freezer and on the door in the same area? and down the open side of 
> the door.
>
> The seal looks good and it takes a little effort to open the door so I 
> think it?s sealing properly, but maybe not
>
> Before I start throwing parts at it? looking for probable causes.
>
> TIA
>
> JOHN
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk  http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net
>
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From tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com  Mon Aug  5 06:39:26 2024
From: tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com (Tim .)
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2024 12:39:26 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] Wheeled Jack Stands?
Message-ID: <MN6PR14MB719719F66120272744AC5BB0B4BE2@MN6PR14MB7197.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>

Anyone have/use wheeled jack stands?

Did you make them or buy them?

I did a quick online search and the little I found were homemade. I would prefer to buy something heavy duty that rolls very easily as the car will need to be on them over winter while I swap the entire rear end.

Thanks
tim
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From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Tue Aug  6 09:26:44 2024
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2024 10:26:44 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Wheeled Jack Stands?
In-Reply-To: <MN6PR14MB719719F66120272744AC5BB0B4BE2@MN6PR14MB7197.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
References: <MN6PR14MB719719F66120272744AC5BB0B4BE2@MN6PR14MB7197.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CA+k5suo3ey=YPCjkVJ6feXdUeTF_XKcpJfRkbkj3k1UDahSVMQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Mon, Aug 5, 2024 at 5:51?PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com> wrote:
>
> Anyone have/use wheeled jack stands?
>
> Did you make them or buy them?
>
> I did a quick online search and the little I found were homemade. I would prefer to buy something heavy duty that rolls very easily as the car will need to be on them over winter while I swap the entire rear end.

I have never heard of such a thing.  The idea of working under a car
that could roll is terrifying, and I'd very much worry about the car
alling off the stands when it was rolled.  a quick google turned up
these people: https://pivotalmanufacturing.com/ who make a rolling
base for a normal jack stand (looks like 1/4" plate with six casters,
plus a hook to capture the stand).  I wouldn't work under a vehicle on
them, without locking casters at the very least, but they probably
work for moving the car, if your floor is smooth and flat and clean.

-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Tue Aug  6 11:17:04 2024
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2024 10:17:04 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Wheeled Jack Stands?
In-Reply-To: <MN6PR14MB719719F66120272744AC5BB0B4BE2@MN6PR14MB7197.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
References: <MN6PR14MB719719F66120272744AC5BB0B4BE2@MN6PR14MB7197.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <099901dae824$76066c10$62134430$@gmail.com>

It sounds like a great idea in principle, but as I think it through - I'm
pretty sure I wouldn't want to work under a car that was up on a platform
that could move. Any casters good enough to provide easy movement of a multi
thousand-pound vehicle would likely move easily when you start applying
torque to parts. [Yes, you could use locking casters - but then you are
betting everything on the locks.]

 

I have used GoJak brand car dollies, and its amazing how readily the car
will move when on them!  You still need regular jack stands for when you
need to get under the vehicle, but for moving vehicles around they cant be
beat.

 

-----------------------------------

All the best,

 

Al Fuller

 

From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Tim .
Sent: Monday, August 5, 2024 5:39 AM
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Wheeled Jack Stands?

 

Anyone have/use wheeled jack stands?

 

Did you make them or buy them? 

 

I did a quick online search and the little I found were homemade. I would
prefer to buy something heavy duty that rolls very easily as the car will
need to be on them over winter while I swap the entire rear end. 

 

Thanks

tim

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From dirtbeard at gmail.com  Wed Aug  7 06:34:06 2024
From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard)
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2024 05:34:06 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Wheeled Jack Stands?
In-Reply-To: <099901dae824$76066c10$62134430$@gmail.com>
References: <MN6PR14MB719719F66120272744AC5BB0B4BE2@MN6PR14MB7197.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
 <099901dae824$76066c10$62134430$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAG1pxgYWY-jxwqg=WQnmOvenjOjSfVqb8V1cy3VEDGVrzVSXKQ@mail.gmail.com>

My concern here would be trying to move the car on jack stands with
wheels.I would be less worried about the car moving around accidentally.

I have two four-post lifts (Backyard Buddy) that have wheels you can attach
and move the lifts with a car lifted.

Two issues I see trying to do this with jack stands:
1) The wheels on the lifts are large in diameter (over 10") and need to be
in order to move the substantial weight over any chips or cracks in the
concrete. With these very large wheels, it is quite easy for one many to
move the lift around the garage with a car lifted on it. I think it would
be difficult to do so with smaller wheels. In order to move diagonally,
they also would need to be casters.
2) The wheels on the 4-post lifts are firmly attached to the lift, and when
you apply sufficient lateral force to the lift and car to move it, you are
moving the lift with the car on it, all four wheels are locked into the
lift. With wheeled jack stands, you would need to apply lateral pressure to
the car and I would be concerned that the wheeled jack stands would catch
on some irregularity on the floor, or just bind for some reason, stop
moving and tip over from the lateral movement, dropping the car.

Maybe I am missing something here, but I do not think I would try this with
jack stands. Perhaps a scissors lift with wheels where the wheels are
attached to the platform could work?. I think four separate jack stands
each with their own wheels would be a most unstable proposition to try to
move safely.


On Tue, Aug 6, 2024 at 10:29?AM <alfuller194 at gmail.com> wrote:

> It sounds like a great idea in principle, but as I think it through ? I?m
> pretty sure I wouldn?t want to work under a car that was up on a platform
> that could move. Any casters good enough to provide easy movement of a
> multi thousand-pound vehicle would likely move easily when you start
> applying torque to parts? [Yes, you could use locking casters ? but then
> you are betting everything on the locks.]
>
>
>
> I have used GoJak brand car dollies, and its amazing how readily the car
> will move when on them!  You still need regular jack stands for when you
> need to get under the vehicle, but for moving vehicles around they cant be
> beat.
>
>
>
> -----------------------------------
>
> All the best,
>
>
>
> Al Fuller
>
>
>
> *From:* Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Tim .
> *Sent:* Monday, August 5, 2024 5:39 AM
> *To:* Shop Talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Shop-talk] Wheeled Jack Stands?
>
>
>
> Anyone have/use wheeled jack stands?
>
>
>
> Did you make them or buy them?
>
>
>
> I did a quick online search and the little I found were homemade. I would
> prefer to buy something heavy duty that rolls very easily as the car will
> need to be on them over winter while I swap the entire rear end.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> tim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com
>
>
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From jamesf at groupwbench.org  Fri Aug  9 12:08:18 2024
From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin)
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2024 14:08:18 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Roll crimping an instrument bezel by hand?
Message-ID: <40B87D00-587C-44C6-8076-3FFD774A91A1@groupwbench.org>

I need to round over the bezel of a motorcycle speedometer after replacing the glass. I've seen it done by lathe:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2ugiz4xVrU

but my lathe buddy has been saying "this weekend" for over a month. I don't have anything bigger than a hand drill at the moment. The bezel sticks up about 2mm past the face it needs to crimp over, so not much to work with, and that's with one hand compressing the rubber seal. 

I tried rolling a big socket over it to simulate the avove motion but I couldn't get the metal to deform at all. I feel if I use more leverage like with a tablespoon I'll end up stretching the metal rather than shrinking it to its smaller circumference. 

I'm sitting on my hands but if we don't get to it this weekend I'm afraid I'll lose it and end up ruining it. Any ideas on how not to ruin it? :-)

thanks,
jim

From eric at megageek.com  Sat Aug 10 05:19:47 2024
From: eric at megageek.com (Moose)
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2024 07:19:47 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Roll crimping an instrument bezel by hand?
In-Reply-To: <40B87D00-587C-44C6-8076-3FFD774A91A1@groupwbench.org>
References: <40B87D00-587C-44C6-8076-3FFD774A91A1@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <OFF226D377.92E000F2-ON85258B75.003E0E8E-85258B75.003E3D21@mail.megageek.com>

Jim,

Doesn't seem like this would be to hard to fab something up to do this on 
a drill press.  The 'live center' would be the biggest challenge, but I 
can think of a bunch of ways to do it.

Don't forget, this is also an excuse to buy a REALLY helpful tool!  8>)

Moose



From:   Jim Franklin <jamesf at groupwbench.org>
To:     Shop Talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Date:   08/09/2024 14:37
Subject:        [Shop-talk] Roll crimping an instrument bezel by hand?
Sent by:        "Shop-talk" <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net>



I need to round over the bezel of a motorcycle speedometer after replacing 
the glass. I've seen it done by lathe:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2ugiz4xVrU

but my lathe buddy has been saying "this weekend" for over a month. I 
don't have anything bigger than a hand drill at the moment. The bezel 
sticks up about 2mm past the face it needs to crimp over, so not much to 
work with, and that's with one hand compressing the rubber seal. 

I tried rolling a big socket over it to simulate the avove motion but I 
couldn't get the metal to deform at all. I feel if I use more leverage 
like with a tablespoon I'll end up stretching the metal rather than 
shrinking it to its smaller circumference. 

I'm sitting on my hands but if we don't get to it this weekend I'm afraid 
I'll lose it and end up ruining it. Any ideas on how not to ruin it? :-)

thanks,
jim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk 
http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eric at megageek.com


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From jamesf at groupwbench.org  Sat Aug 10 05:38:48 2024
From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin)
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2024 07:38:48 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Roll crimping an instrument bezel by hand?
In-Reply-To: <OFF226D377.92E000F2-ON85258B75.003E0E8E-85258B75.003E3D21@mail.megageek.com>
References: <40B87D00-587C-44C6-8076-3FFD774A91A1@groupwbench.org>
 <OFF226D377.92E000F2-ON85258B75.003E0E8E-85258B75.003E3D21@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <C75A09A8-A20B-469E-A8D2-AE661477F423@groupwbench.org>

Hahaha, yea, the MINUTE the housing market loosens up and I can find a place with a decent shop opportunity that's also not 100 miles from an airport (work)...

I saw a video of roll crimping shotgun shells on a drill press but that uses a special crimping tool, and the tool rotates in the drill instead of the shell, whereas in my case I'm 99% sure I'll need the speedo to rotate while the crimper is fixed, especially with the cable housing and threaded mounting studs standing proud of the back of the gauge. 

jim

> On Aug 10, 2024, at 7:19 AM, Moose <eric at megageek.com> wrote:
> 
> Jim, 
> 
> Doesn't seem like this would be to hard to fab something up to do this on a drill press.  The 'live center' would be the biggest challenge, but I can think of a bunch of ways to do it. 
> 
> Don't forget, this is also an excuse to buy a REALLY helpful tool!  8>) 
> 
> Moose 
> 
> 
> 
> From:        Jim Franklin <jamesf at groupwbench.org> 
> To:        Shop Talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> 
> Date:        08/09/2024 14:37 
> Subject:        [Shop-talk] Roll crimping an instrument bezel by hand? 
> Sent by:        "Shop-talk" <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to round over the bezel of a motorcycle speedometer after replacing the glass. I've seen it done by lathe:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2ugiz4xVrU
> 
> but my lathe buddy has been saying "this weekend" for over a month. I don't have anything bigger than a hand drill at the moment. The bezel sticks up about 2mm past the face it needs to crimp over, so not much to work with, and that's with one hand compressing the rubber seal. 
> 
> I tried rolling a big socket over it to simulate the avove motion but I couldn't get the metal to deform at all. I feel if I use more leverage like with a tablespoon I'll end up stretching the metal rather than shrinking it to its smaller circumference. 
> 
> I'm sitting on my hands but if we don't get to it this weekend I'm afraid I'll lose it and end up ruining it. Any ideas on how not to ruin it? :-)
> 
> thanks,
> jim
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eric at megageek.com
> 
> 

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