From jblair1948 at cox.net Sun Jan 1 14:34:59 2023 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Sun, 01 Jan 2023 16:34:59 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dead battery question Message-ID: Hey gang, Got a simiple question for your all. But before I start, I want to thank the manufacturers of all the new cars and the new fangled crap they put on them, NOT! I own a '06 Scion xB and a '12 Scion xB, but I'm pretty sure this applies to other brands also. 1. Only the drivers door can be opened with a key 2. Can't open the rear hatch/trunk as no key latch. 3. A solenoid to "Lock" the gearshift in Park So now you have a dead battery. Wife and I went out yesterday morning to get so donuts to ring in the Ney Year with (an long standing tradition in my family. Got the donuts and went to go home. Put the key in the ignition and nothing! Great a dead battery. I have a jump box, and it's in the back behind the rear seat. Can't open the hatch as it's electrical. So I lay the back seat down and slide in and get the jump box. It's deader than a door nail also. So it's no help. Not to mention I can't get the car out of part to be able to push the car out of the parking space due to the electrical solenoid that needs to be retracted to allow me to move the gear shift lever. Called my sons (as they were home for Xmas) and they came to get us with jumper cables. We jump the car and start for home. Get home and go to take the battery out of my '06 and up in the wife's '12 so we can drive her car around. Again I want to thank the manufacture for saving me $1 by making the wiring harness fit so perfectly and for changing the way and type of battery used. We had to turn the battery around because one of the cars the positive post ends up closest to the fender, on the other car the negative post is closest to the fender. There is NOT enough give to move the wiring harness the 2" to make the connection to the other battery. I am thinking of taking a "aux" cigarette plug and connecting a 9V battery and to pluging that into the "aux" power outlet it to reverse feed the car's electrical system? I don't have an schmetics of the car's electrical system. I was hoping that a 9V battery would have enough power to allow you to nlock the doors, and possibly get the car out of park. Has anyone tried this. I thought I saw something like this advertised some years back. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: http://autox.team.net/morgan/ Bricklin: http://www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy: e pluribus Unum, "from many, one." In God We Trust Liberty - the power of choosing, thinking, and acting for oneself; freedom from control or restriction -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From doug at dougbraun.com Sun Jan 1 14:58:17 2023 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2023 16:58:17 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dead battery question In-Reply-To: <20230101214537.BB003A0CE0@autox.team.net> References: <20230101214537.BB003A0CE0@autox.team.net> Message-ID: > > First of all, if you have a lead-acid jump box, throw it away and get a > new lithium one. They work great and hold their charge for a long time. Doug -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ejrussell61 at gmail.com Sun Jan 1 15:03:39 2023 From: ejrussell61 at gmail.com (Eric Russell) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2023 17:03:39 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dead battery question In-Reply-To: <20230101213735.EE477A0C89@autox.team.net> References: <20230101213735.EE477A0C89@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Some cars have a (possibly hidden?) button to press that allows you to shift a dead car out of park. Don't know if the Scion has that (our '17 RAV4 does). EjR On Sun, Jan 1, 2023 at 4:37 PM John T. Blair wrote: > > Hey gang, > > Got a simiple question for your all. But before I start, I want to thank > the > manufacturers of all the new cars and the new fangled crap they put > on them, NOT! > > I own a '06 Scion xB and a '12 Scion xB, but I'm pretty sure this applies > to > other brands also. > > 1. Only the drivers door can be opened with a key > > 2. Can't open the rear hatch/trunk as no key latch. > > 3. A solenoid to "Lock" the gearshift in Park > > So now you have a dead battery. Wife and I went out yesterday morning to > get so donuts to ring in the Ney Year with (an long standing tradition in > my > family. Got the donuts and went to go home. Put the key in the ignition > and nothing! Great a dead battery. > > I have a jump box, and it's in the back behind the rear seat. Can't open > the > hatch as it's electrical. So I lay the back seat down and slide in > and get the > jump box. It's deader than a door nail also. So it's no help. > > Not to mention I can't get the car out of part to be able to push the car > out > of the parking space due to the electrical solenoid that needs to be > retracted > to allow me to move the gear shift lever. > > Called my sons (as they were home for Xmas) and they came to get us with > jumper cables. We jump the car and start for home. Get home and go to > take the battery out of my '06 and up in the wife's '12 so we can drive her > car around. > > Again I want to thank the manufacture for saving me $1 by making the > wiring harness fit so perfectly and for changing the way and type of > battery > used. We had to turn the battery around because one of the cars the > positive post ends up closest to the fender, on the other car the negative > post is closest to the fender. There is NOT enough give to move the wiring > harness the 2" to make the connection to the other battery. > > I am thinking of taking a "aux" cigarette plug and connecting a 9V battery > and to pluging that into the "aux" power outlet it to reverse feed > the car's electrical system? I don't have an schmetics of the car's > electrical system. I > was hoping that a 9V battery would have enough power to allow you to > nlock the doors, and possibly get the car out of park. > > Has anyone tried this. I thought I saw something like this > advertised some years back. > > John > > > > > > > > > > > John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net > Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 > > 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) > 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III > 65 Rambler Classic > > Morgan: http://autox.team.net/morgan/ > Bricklin: http://www.bricklin.org > > If you can read this - Thank a teacher! > If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! > > From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy: > e pluribus Unum, "from many, one." > In God We Trust > Liberty - the power of choosing, thinking, and acting for > oneself; freedom from control or restriction > > > > > -- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ejrussell61 at gmail.com > > -- Eric Russell Mebane, NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org Sun Jan 1 15:14:06 2023 From: mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org (Jimmie Mayfield) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2023 17:14:06 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dead battery question In-Reply-To: References: <20230101214537.BB003A0CE0@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <1503e114-74ec-1161-7db1-fc84c6cd82f8@sackheads.org> Which one do you have?? I've looked at a few and it seems like all of them have ridiculously undersized wires. J On 1/1/23 16:58, Doug Braun wrote: > > First of all, if you have a lead-acid jump box, throw it away and > get a new lithium one. They work great and hold their charge for a > long time. > > > Doug > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From patintexas at icloud.com Sun Jan 1 15:32:46 2023 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2023 16:32:46 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dead battery question In-Reply-To: <20230101215103.B415CA0CF8@autox.team.net> References: <20230101215103.B415CA0CF8@autox.team.net> Message-ID: All this new high tech stuff is really a pain. I doubt that you will be able to back feed the aux outlet if it turns on & off with the ignition. If it is switched, it is probably relay controlled. Check the owners manual to see if there is a way around the gearshift lock, most cars have a slot somewhere that you can insert the key to mechanically unlock it. After this is over, if your jump box can be charged by connecting it to a running vehicle, you might consider adding a connection inside your vehicles where it can be connected to a switched circuit every month or so to top off the charge, I wouldn?t leave connected all the time. Have another doughnut if there are any left. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jan 1, 2023, at 3:51 PM, John T. Blair wrote: ? Hey gang, Got a simiple question for your all. But before I start, I want to thank the manufacturers of all the new cars and the new fangled crap they put on them, NOT! I own a '06 Scion xB and a '12 Scion xB, but I'm pretty sure this applies to other brands also. 1. Only the drivers door can be opened with a key 2. Can't open the rear hatch/trunk as no key latch. 3. A solenoid to "Lock" the gearshift in Park So now you have a dead battery. Wife and I went out yesterday morning to get so donuts to ring in the Ney Year with (an long standing tradition in my family. Got the donuts and went to go home. Put the key in the ignition and nothing! Great a dead battery. I have a jump box, and it's in the back behind the rear seat. Can't open the hatch as it's electrical. So I lay the back seat down and slide in and get the jump box. It's deader than a door nail also. So it's no help. Not to mention I can't get the car out of part to be able to push the car out of the parking space due to the electrical solenoid that needs to be retracted to allow me to move the gear shift lever. Called my sons (as they were home for Xmas) and they came to get us with jumper cables. We jump the car and start for home. Get home and go to take the battery out of my '06 and up in the wife's '12 so we can drive her car around. Again I want to thank the manufacture for saving me $1 by making the wiring harness fit so perfectly and for changing the way and type of battery used. We had to turn the battery around because one of the cars the positive post ends up closest to the fender, on the other car the negative post is closest to the fender. There is NOT enough give to move the wiring harness the 2" to make the connection to the other battery. I am thinking of taking a "aux" cigarette plug and connecting a 9V battery and to pluging that into the "aux" power outlet it to reverse feed the car's electrical system? I don't have an schmetics of the car's electrical system. I was hoping that a 9V battery would have enough power to allow you to nlock the doors, and possibly get the car out of park. Has anyone tried this. I thought I saw something like this advertised some years back. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: http://autox.team.net/morgan/ Bricklin: http://www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy: e pluribus Unum, "from many, one." In God We Trust Liberty - the power of choosing, thinking, and acting for oneself; freedom from control or restriction -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com From markmiller at threeboysfarm.com Sun Jan 1 17:55:28 2023 From: markmiller at threeboysfarm.com (Mark Miller) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2023 16:55:28 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dead battery question (John T. Blair) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <86de12b1-4ab8-961e-6842-356582c4c5d6@threeboysfarm.com> Your car has a 'don't leave park' override.? Manual page 316 explains it. and a vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bwNrCbvCxB0 And: your aux plug only works with the car turned on; not sure if just having the switch on is sufficient or if there needs to be battery power available.? But if the charging box works and has any juice it should easily be enough juice to operate anything. Regards,b Mark Miller 707-490-5834 markmiller at threeboysfarm.com On 1/1/2023 2:32 PM, shop-talk-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Dead battery question (John T. Blair) > > > dot dot dot Not to mention I can't get the car out of part to be able to push the car out > of the parking space due to the electrical solenoid that needs to be retracted > to allow me to move the gear shift lever. > > > I am thinking of taking a "aux" cigarette plug and connecting a 9V battery > and to pluging that into the "aux" power outlet it to reverse feed > the car's electrical system? I don't have an schmetics of the car's > electrical system. I > was hoping that a 9V battery would have enough power to allow you to > nlock the doors, and possibly get the car out of park. > > > John > > John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net From doug at dougbraun.com Sun Jan 1 18:16:46 2023 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2023 20:16:46 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dead battery question In-Reply-To: <1503e114-74ec-1161-7db1-fc84c6cd82f8@sackheads.org> References: <20230101214537.BB003A0CE0@autox.team.net> <1503e114-74ec-1161-7db1-fc84c6cd82f8@sackheads.org> Message-ID: It's from Amazon, a "GooLoo" branded model. I bought it without doing a lot of research, but over a couple of years it has saved me and other drivers a bunch of times. The wires are sort of thin, but they are only 8 inches long, so it doesn't really matter. Doug On Sun, Jan 1, 2023 at 6:11 PM Jimmie Mayfield < mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org> wrote: > Which one do you have? I've looked at a few and it seems like all of them > have ridiculously undersized wires. > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jblair1948 at cox.net Sun Jan 1 19:07:22 2023 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Sun, 01 Jan 2023 21:07:22 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dead battery question In-Reply-To: <1503e114-74ec-1161-7db1-fc84c6cd82f8@sackheads.org> References: <20230101214537.BB003A0CE0@autox.team.net> <1503e114-74ec-1161-7db1-fc84c6cd82f8@sackheads.org> Message-ID: At 05:14 PM 1/1/2023, you wrote: >Which one do you have? I've looked at a few and it seems like all of them have >ridiculously undersized wires. Jimmie, I'm assuming you mean the jump box. I got it at Costco a couple of years ago. It's A Horizon Brands Company - TypeS (typesauto.com) After we got home yesterday I charged it. It took many hours. Today I went out and tried it, it started the car right up. Our 2 boys were here for the hoildays and wanted to clean their cars so I had to start it a 2nd time so we could move the cars around a little in the driveway. Then after we were finished cleaning the cars, I had to put the jump box back on the battery cables to roll up the windows, and it's still showing a full charge. I was very supprised! I just have to remember to bring it in from the car every 3 mo or so and top off the charge. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: http://autox.team.net/morgan/ Bricklin: http://www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy: e pluribus Unum, "from many, one." In God We Trust Liberty - the power of choosing, thinking, and acting for oneself; freedom from control or restriction -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jdinnis at gmail.com Sun Jan 1 20:36:27 2023 From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2023 21:36:27 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dead battery question In-Reply-To: <1503e114-74ec-1161-7db1-fc84c6cd82f8@sackheads.org> References: <20230101214537.BB003A0CE0@autox.team.net> <1503e114-74ec-1161-7db1-fc84c6cd82f8@sackheads.org> Message-ID: I have four different jump boxes made by NOCO, one in each vehicle. The smallest of which (1000 amp model) easily starts my 5.7 V8. The larger one (2000 amp) will start my 7.4 V8 from a dead battery in -10f weather. They hold their charge VERY well in storage. I take them out and charge them twice a year and have never had an issue using one to jump any vehicle I have tried them on. Smaller engines can be started several times on a single charge. These are not the cheapest, but they come up on sale on Amazon several times a year. I got one of the 1000 amp models for $45 on sale last year. Highly recommended. On Sun, Jan 1, 2023 at 5:14 PM Jimmie Mayfield < mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org> wrote: > Which one do you have? I've looked at a few and it seems like all of them > have ridiculously undersized wires. > > J > > > On 1/1/23 16:58, Doug Braun wrote: > > First of all, if you have a lead-acid jump box, throw it away and get a >> new lithium one. They work great and hold their charge for a long time. > > > Doug > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com > > -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jblair1948 at cox.net Sun Jan 1 21:32:38 2023 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Sun, 01 Jan 2023 23:32:38 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dead battery question In-Reply-To: References: <20230101215103.B415CA0CF8@autox.team.net> Message-ID: At 05:32 PM 1/1/2023, Pat Horne wrote: >All this new high tech stuff is really a pain. Pat, For sure!!!! >I doubt that you will be able to back feed the aux outlet if it turns on & off with >the ignition. If it is switched, it is probably relay controlled. That was my thought. >Check the owners manual to see if there is a way around the gearshift lock, most >cars have a slot somewhere that you can insert the key to mechanically unlock it. Yes, there is a plate that you can pull, and there is a button there. But my thought was that just fired the electric solenoid. Haven't tried it though. >After this is over, if your jump box can be charged by connecting it to a running >vehicle, you might consider adding a connection inside your vehicles where it can >be connected to a switched circuit every month or so to top off the charge, I >wouldnt leave connected all the time. Not a bad idea. Or just plug the jump box into the aux elect outlet (cigarette lighter port) every now and then to keep it charged. >Have another doughnut if there are any left. I think there are 2 left. :) Not a bad idea. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: http://autox.team.net/morgan/ Bricklin: http://www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy: e pluribus Unum, "from many, one." In God We Trust Liberty - the power of choosing, thinking, and acting for oneself; freedom from control or restriction -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dhlocker at protonmail.com Mon Jan 2 05:41:59 2023 From: dhlocker at protonmail.com (Donald H Locker) Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2023 12:41:59 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dead battery question In-Reply-To: <1503e114-74ec-1161-7db1-fc84c6cd82f8@sackheads.org> References: <20230101214537.BB003A0CE0@autox.team.net> <1503e114-74ec-1161-7db1-fc84c6cd82f8@sackheads.org> Message-ID: <1a02d6e8-6674-19ae-3164-d4b42c954fcc@protonmail.com> The jump box doesn't have to supply cranking current, it only needs to provide some charging current to the primary battery and can afford to do so at a relatively low (tens of amps) current for a minute or so. After that, the primary will have sufficient charge to provide the cranking current. Donald. On 1/1/23 17:14, Jimmie Mayfield wrote: > Which one do you have? I've looked at a few and it seems like all of them have ridiculously undersized wires. > > J > > On 1/1/23 16:58, Doug Braun wrote: > >>> First of all, if you have a lead-acid jump box, throw it away and get a new lithium one. They work great and hold their charge for a long time. >> >> Doug -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dmscheidt at gmail.com Mon Jan 2 06:56:20 2023 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2023 07:56:20 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dead battery question In-Reply-To: <20230102030945.DDDB9A0511@autox.team.net> References: <20230102030945.DDDB9A0511@autox.team.net> Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tjcora at icloud.com Mon Jan 2 07:06:44 2023 From: tjcora at icloud.com (Thomas Coradeschi) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2023 09:06:44 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dead battery question In-Reply-To: <20230101215151.B1E20A0CF1@autox.team.net> References: <20230101215151.B1E20A0CF1@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <23E0AF09-60D7-451C-9F64-3A0BE78BAD89@icloud.com> At least you can get the hood open to connect jumper cables! My boxster has solenoid operated latches for both the trunk and the frunk (guess which is which!). Fortunately, the engineers at Porsche added a connector to the fuse block in the driver?s footwell, which allows you to power up the circuit so you can pop the frunk and get at the battery and its connections. It does require a pretty decent amount of current to operate. A battery charger (old school, not a smart charger) won?t do the job. There?s also a manual override (a cable), which you can fish out from behind the front bumper and use to pop the latch if the solenoid dies. FWIW. ? Tom Coradeschi tjcora at icloud.com > On 01 Jan 2023, at 4:34 PM, John T. Blair wrote: > > > Hey gang, > > Got a simiple question for your all. But before I start, I want to thank the > manufacturers of all the new cars and the new fangled crap they put on them, NOT! > > I own a '06 Scion xB and a '12 Scion xB, but I'm pretty sure this applies to > other brands also. > > 1. Only the drivers door can be opened with a key > > 2. Can't open the rear hatch/trunk as no key latch. > > 3. A solenoid to "Lock" the gearshift in Park > > So now you have a dead battery. Wife and I went out yesterday morning to > get so donuts to ring in the Ney Year with (an long standing tradition in my > family. Got the donuts and went to go home. Put the key in the ignition > and nothing! Great a dead battery. > > I have a jump box, and it's in the back behind the rear seat. Can't open the > hatch as it's electrical. So I lay the back seat down and slide in and get the > jump box. It's deader than a door nail also. So it's no help. > > Not to mention I can't get the car out of part to be able to push the car out > of the parking space due to the electrical solenoid that needs to be retracted > to allow me to move the gear shift lever. > > Called my sons (as they were home for Xmas) and they came to get us with > jumper cables. We jump the car and start for home. Get home and go to > take the battery out of my '06 and up in the wife's '12 so we can drive her > car around. > > Again I want to thank the manufacture for saving me $1 by making the > wiring harness fit so perfectly and for changing the way and type of battery > used. We had to turn the battery around because one of the cars the positive post ends up closest to the fender, on the other car the negative > post is closest to the fender. There is NOT enough give to move the wiring > harness the 2" to make the connection to the other battery. > > I am thinking of taking a "aux" cigarette plug and connecting a 9V battery > and to pluging that into the "aux" power outlet it to reverse feed the car's electrical system? I don't have an schmetics of the car's electrical system. I > was hoping that a 9V battery would have enough power to allow you to nlock the doors, and possibly get the car out of park. > > Has anyone tried this. I thought I saw something like this advertised some years back. > > John > > > > > > > > > > > John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net > Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 > > 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) > 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III > 65 Rambler Classic > > Morgan: http://autox.team.net/morgan/ > Bricklin: http://www.bricklin.org > > If you can read this - Thank a teacher! > If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! > > From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy: > e pluribus Unum, "from many, one." > In God We Trust > Liberty - the power of choosing, thinking, and acting for > oneself; freedom from control or restriction > > > > > -- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tjcora at icloud.com > From jblair1948 at cox.net Mon Jan 2 08:08:43 2023 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2023 10:08:43 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dead battery question In-Reply-To: <23E0AF09-60D7-451C-9F64-3A0BE78BAD89@icloud.com> References: <20230101215151.B1E20A0CF1@autox.team.net> <23E0AF09-60D7-451C-9F64-3A0BE78BAD89@icloud.com> Message-ID: At 09:06 AM 1/2/2023, Thomas Coradeschi wrote: >At least you can get the hood open to connect jumper cables! My boxster has >solenoid operated latches for both the trunk and the frunk (guess which is >which!). Fortunately, the engineers at Porsche added a connector to the fuse >block in the driver???s footwell, .... Tom, You've got to wonder what the heck these designer were thinking. Do they ever try to use the stuff they design. Not to mention the cost. For example: 1. We used to have a fan that was bolted to the crank or the water pump. Yes it made a little noise at high speeds, but you had so much other noises you didn't notice, and yes, if you were stuck idling for a long time the engine would over heat because the fan couldn't pull enough air. But it didn't cost anything. Then they put in an electric fan with a $5 temp sensor and a $5 relay. So when you needed the fan, like at idle, the fan would kick in and move a lot of air. Then the decided that you may not need a lot of air flow if the coolant was slightly over the normal operating temp. So the put in a control unit that could vary the speed of the fan from barely on to full on. But this controller was now $300. From $0, to $10, to $300. Where's the logic? What did they gain. 2. Heaters used to be controlled by 2 metal cables and a couple of slide levers. They almost never broke. So what do they do, put a couple of $30 to $100 vacuum or electric motors in to open the doors. You have to disassemble 1/2 the dash to get to them to see if they are working. Again to me another massive fail. Then there's the multizone temp controls. We could go on, like not spare tire, ..... I guess I'm not affluent enough to be able to afford a car, or I'm just too darn old. :) And don't get me started on the computers in a car. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: http://autox.team.net/morgan/ Bricklin: http://www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy: e pluribus Unum, "from many, one." In God We Trust Liberty - the power of choosing, thinking, and acting for oneself; freedom from control or restriction -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 1789alpine at gmail.com Mon Jan 2 09:05:43 2023 From: 1789alpine at gmail.com (Jim Stone) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2023 11:05:43 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dead battery question In-Reply-To: References: <20230101214537.BB003A0CE0@autox.team.net> <1503e114-74ec-1161-7db1-fc84c6cd82f8@sackheads.org> Message-ID: <792EE6C8-BDCC-474F-8A5C-387E4264A4E9@gmail.com> I used to do some consulting work with AAA and occasionally rode along with their drivers. This was 5 years ago and the lithium ones were new and not very good yet, but they always carried this Clore charger: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SQTYG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I bought one and have carried it ever since. It is way bigger than a lithium one, but it holds a charge very well and will jump a truck without difficulty. It has rescued me and strangers in need multiple times. I will likely buy another, more modern, Clore when the time comes. > On Jan 1, 2023, at 10:36 PM, John Innis wrote: > > I have four different jump boxes made by NOCO, one in each vehicle. The smallest of which (1000 amp model) easily starts my 5.7 V8. The larger one (2000 amp) will start my 7.4 V8 from a dead battery in -10f weather. They hold their charge VERY well in storage. I take them out and charge them twice a year and have never had an issue using one to jump any vehicle I have tried them on. Smaller engines can be started several times on a single charge. These are not the cheapest, but they come up on sale on Amazon several times a year. I got one of the 1000 amp models for $45 on sale last year. Highly recommended. > > On Sun, Jan 1, 2023 at 5:14 PM Jimmie Mayfield > wrote: >> Which one do you have? I've looked at a few and it seems like all of them have ridiculously undersized wires. >> >> J >> >> >> On 1/1/23 16:58, Doug Braun wrote: >>>> First of all, if you have a lead-acid jump box, throw it away and get a new lithium one. They work great and hold their charge for a long time. >>> >>> >>> Doug >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com >> > > > -- > ================================= > = Never offend people with style when you = > = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = > ================================= > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789alpine at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dmscheidt at gmail.com Mon Jan 2 10:47:02 2023 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2023 11:47:02 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dead battery question In-Reply-To: <20230102152232.215FCA0C17@autox.team.net> References: <20230102152232.215FCA0C17@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <7F6E9760-A7F6-477F-AD71-DFE7BD6158A6@gmail.com> > On Jan 2, 2023, at 09:22, John T. Blair wrote: > ? At 09:06 AM 1/2/2023, Thomas Coradeschi wrote: > > >At least you can get the hood open to connect jumper cables! My boxster has > >solenoid operated latches for both the trunk and the frunk (guess which is > >which!). Fortunately, the engineers at Porsche added a connector to the fuse > >block in the driver?s footwell, .... > > Tom, > > You've got to wonder what the heck these designer were thinking. Do they ever > try to use the stuff they design. Not to mention the cost. > > For example: > > 1. We used to have a fan that was bolted to the crank or the water pump. Yes it > made a little noise at high speeds, but you had so much other noises you didn't notice, and yes, if you were stuck idling for a long time the engine would over heat > because the fan couldn't pull enough air. But it didn't cost anything. Except the five hp draw at highway speed, whether there was a need for it or not, which is a substantial fraction of the power required to move the whole car, even a square Detroit behemoth. Modern vehicles are better in every way than old ones. Not being able to fix one with a rock and a pointy stick is not a problem, because they need much less fixing. Modern cars have coolant replacement intervals longer than the car replacement intervals of those engine fan beastsl -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From berry at kerch.com Mon Jan 2 13:04:08 2023 From: berry at kerch.com (Berry Kercheval) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2023 12:04:08 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dead battery question In-Reply-To: <7F6E9760-A7F6-477F-AD71-DFE7BD6158A6@gmail.com> References: <20230102152232.215FCA0C17@autox.team.net> <7F6E9760-A7F6-477F-AD71-DFE7BD6158A6@gmail.com> Message-ID: Maybe mechanically, but not in style, panache or ?lan. (IMHO) On Mon, Jan 2, 2023 at 10:13 AM David Scheidt wrote: > > Modern vehicles are better in every way than old ones. > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From james.f.juhas at snet.net Mon Jan 2 15:48:41 2023 From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2023 17:48:41 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dead battery question In-Reply-To: References: <20230102152232.215FCA0C17@autox.team.net> <7F6E9760-A7F6-477F-AD71-DFE7BD6158A6@gmail.com> Message-ID: <629aa1f7-184b-700b-a437-7277dbf80418@snet.net> Wholeheartedly Agreed!!!!!! On 1/2/2023 3:04 PM, Berry Kercheval wrote: > Maybe mechanically, but not in style, panache or ?lan. ?(IMHO) > > On Mon, Jan 2, 2023 at 10:13 AM David Scheidt wrote: > > > Modern vehicles are better in every way than old ones. > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/james.f.juhas at snet.net > -- -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: MGA_311_LRP_2.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 40896 bytes Desc: not available URL: From dhlocker at protonmail.com Mon Jan 2 16:41:25 2023 From: dhlocker at protonmail.com (Donald H Locker) Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2023 23:41:25 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dead battery question In-Reply-To: <7F6E9760-A7F6-477F-AD71-DFE7BD6158A6@gmail.com> References: <20230102152232.215FCA0C17@autox.team.net> <7F6E9760-A7F6-477F-AD71-DFE7BD6158A6@gmail.com> Message-ID: Thank you for saying all this. I started but got tired of listing all the improvements (fuel economy, material economy, longevity, reliability, safety, ...) and just gave up. Donald. On 1/2/23 12:47, David Scheidt wrote: >> On Jan 2, 2023, at 09:22, John T. Blair [](mailto:jblair1948 at cox.net) wrote: > >> ? At 09:06 AM 1/2/2023, Thomas Coradeschi wrote: >> >>>At least you can get the hood open to connect jumper cables! My boxster has >>>solenoid operated latches for both the trunk and the frunk (guess which is >>>which!). Fortunately, the engineers at Porsche added a connector to the fuse >>>block in the driver?s footwell, .... >> >> Tom, >> >> You've got to wonder what the heck these designer were thinking. Do they ever >> try to use the stuff they design. Not to mention the cost. >> >> For example: >> >> 1. We used to have a fan that was bolted to the crank or the water pump. Yes it >> made a little noise at high speeds, but you had so much other noises you didn't notice, and yes, if you were stuck idling for a long time the engine would over heat >> because the fan couldn't pull enough air. But it didn't cost anything. > > Except the five hp draw at highway speed, whether there was a need for it or not, which is a substantial fraction of the power required to move the whole car, even a square Detroit behemoth. > > Modern vehicles are better in every way than old ones. Not being able to fix one with a rock and a pointy stick is not a problem, because they need much less fixing. Modern cars have coolant replacement intervals longer than the car replacement intervals of those engine fan beastsl -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dirtbeard at gmail.com Mon Jan 2 16:42:38 2023 From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard) Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2023 15:42:38 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dead battery question In-Reply-To: <629aa1f7-184b-700b-a437-7277dbf80418@snet.net> References: <20230102152232.215FCA0C17@autox.team.net> <7F6E9760-A7F6-477F-AD71-DFE7BD6158A6@gmail.com> <629aa1f7-184b-700b-a437-7277dbf80418@snet.net> Message-ID: Agreed, as well. I can tell the difference between an MG TC, TD, TF, or a Triumph TR2, TR3, TR4, etc. from across the street. Nowadays, I cannot even tell the difference between a Kia and a BMW, sad to say... But, yes, the spark plugs on new cars last 100K miles, there is not a grease zerk to be found. Exhaust systems, starters, alternators, water pumps also generally are good for 100K miles. These all were routine maintenance items in the past. No points, timing or carburetors to adjust on the new cars... That much said, changing the spark plugs on a MG TF is a great deal easier than changing the sparkplugs on a coil over spark plug on a turbo 4. A friend of mine just accidentally dropped a spark into the engine bay of his 2019 C7 Corvette and it did not come out the bottom, but it had a pronounced harmonic rattle at about 2,500 RPM that was driving him crazy. We had to put it on my lift and use a borescope for about 45 minutes to locate the spark plug (it had wedged in the collector of the exhaust headers),and then another 15 minutes to fabricate an "extractor" out of welding rod and fish it out. I had a Triumph TR6 that the shop manual called for replacing the crankshaft main bearings at 50K miles *as routine maintenance.* As shocking as that sounds for routine maintenance, you actually could change the main bearings in that car just by dropping the oil pan, releasing the main bearing bolts. removing the caps, and pushing out the old shells with the new shells. It really only took a couple hours to do it. It took longer to adjust the valves on the DOHC shimmed engine of a Fiat 124 Spyder that I had. :-) The mechanical tolerances on the new cars are so much tighter and many of the materials are superior as well. Of course much of these improved tolerances and reduced maintenance is an artifact of the emission standards that went into place 30 years ago and have been increasing (e.g., the exhaust and induction systems have to last a set number of years and a set number of miles) Yes, definitely more maintenance is required for the older vehicles, but also it generally is much easier/quicker maintenance. And I would also say, more enjoyable... :-) best, doug On Mon, Jan 2, 2023 at 2:56 PM Jim Juhas wrote: > Wholeheartedly Agreed!!!!!! > > On 1/2/2023 3:04 PM, Berry Kercheval wrote: > > Maybe mechanically, but not in style, panache or ?lan. (IMHO) > > On Mon, Jan 2, 2023 at 10:13 AM David Scheidt wrote: > >> >> Modern vehicles are better in every way than old ones. >> > > _______________________________________________ > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/james.f.juhas at snet.net > > > -- > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com > > -- Best, Doug -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: MGA_311_LRP_2.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 40896 bytes Desc: not available URL: From JIBrooks at live.com Mon Jan 2 19:43:15 2023 From: JIBrooks at live.com (Jack Brooks) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2023 02:43:15 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dead battery question In-Reply-To: References: <20230102152232.215FCA0C17@autox.team.net> <7F6E9760-A7F6-477F-AD71-DFE7BD6158A6@gmail.com> <629aa1f7-184b-700b-a437-7277dbf80418@snet.net> Message-ID: Old Dirtbeard wrote: I had a Triumph TR6 that the shop manual called for replacing the crankshaft main bearings at 50K miles as routine maintenance. As shocking as that sounds for routine maintenance, you actually could change the main bearings in that car just by dropping the oil pan, releasing the main bearing bolts. removing the caps, and pushing out the old shells with the new shells. It really only took a couple hours to do it. I?ve done this on my TR3 when I bought it. It had a slight big end knock. Amazingly easy, except for the top half of #4 which takes a little extra effort. Jack From: Shop-talk On Behalf Of old dirtbeard Sent: Monday, January 2, 2023 3:43 PM To: Jim Juhas Cc: shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dead battery question Agreed, as well. I can tell the difference between an MG TC, TD, TF, or a Triumph TR2, TR3, TR4, etc. from across the street. Nowadays, I cannot even tell the difference between a Kia and a BMW, sad to say... But, yes, the spark plugs on new cars last 100K miles, there is not a grease zerk to be found. Exhaust systems, starters, alternators, water pumps also generally are good for 100K miles. These all were routine maintenance items in the past. No points, timing or carburetors to adjust on the new cars... That much said, changing the spark plugs on a MG TF is a great deal easier than changing the sparkplugs on a coil over spark plug on a turbo 4. A friend of mine just accidentally dropped a spark into the engine bay of his 2019 C7 Corvette and it did not come out the bottom, but it had a pronounced harmonic rattle at about 2,500 RPM that was driving him crazy. We had to put it on my lift and use a borescope for about 45 minutes to locate the spark plug (it had wedged in the collector of the exhaust headers),and then another 15 minutes to fabricate an "extractor" out of welding rod and fish it out. I had a Triumph TR6 that the shop manual called for replacing the crankshaft main bearings at 50K miles as routine maintenance. As shocking as that sounds for routine maintenance, you actually could change the main bearings in that car just by dropping the oil pan, releasing the main bearing bolts. removing the caps, and pushing out the old shells with the new shells. It really only took a couple hours to do it. It took longer to adjust the valves on the DOHC shimmed engine of a Fiat 124 Spyder that I had. :-) The mechanical tolerances on the new cars are so much tighter and many of the materials are superior as well. Of course much of these improved tolerances and reduced maintenance is an artifact of the emission standards that went into place 30 years ago and have been increasing (e.g., the exhaust and induction systems have to last a set number of years and a set number of miles) Yes, definitely more maintenance is required for the older vehicles, but also it generally is much easier/quicker maintenance. And I would also say, more enjoyable... :-) best, doug On Mon, Jan 2, 2023 at 2:56 PM Jim Juhas > wrote: Wholeheartedly Agreed!!!!!! On 1/2/2023 3:04 PM, Berry Kercheval wrote: Maybe mechanically, but not in style, panache or ?lan. (IMHO) On Mon, Jan 2, 2023 at 10:13 AM David Scheidt > wrote: Modern vehicles are better in every way than old ones. _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/james.f.juhas at snet.net -- [cid:image001.jpg at 01D91ED9.ED529890] _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com -- Best, Doug -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 40896 bytes Desc: image001.jpg URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Tue Jan 3 04:25:48 2023 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2023 06:25:48 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dead battery question In-Reply-To: References: <20230102152232.215FCA0C17@autox.team.net> <7F6E9760-A7F6-477F-AD71-DFE7BD6158A6@gmail.com> <629aa1f7-184b-700b-a437-7277dbf80418@snet.net> Message-ID: On Mon, Jan 2, 2023 at 8:50 PM old dirtbeard wrote: > Agreed, as well. I can tell the difference between an MG TC, TD, TF, or a > Triumph TR2, TR3, TR4, etc. from across the street. > > Nowadays, I cannot even tell the difference between a Kia and a BMW, sad > to say... > Cars used to have different designers (because of style, panache, and ?lan). Now they all have the same designer: air vs. Drag coefficient > Yes, definitely more maintenance is required for the older vehicles, but > also it generally is much easier/quicker maintenance. And I would also say, > more enjoyable... :-) > Which is why I have old Triumphs as a hobby, and cheerfully pay a small fortune to have someone else work on my modern cars on the rare occasion that they need some work. I don't even change my own oil or brake pads any more, because I'm retired from working and I have better things to do. -- Jeff -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jan 3 05:33:04 2023 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2023 12:33:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] Dead battery question In-Reply-To: References: <20230102152232.215FCA0C17@autox.team.net> <7F6E9760-A7F6-477F-AD71-DFE7BD6158A6@gmail.com> <629aa1f7-184b-700b-a437-7277dbf80418@snet.net> Message-ID: <1740780101.6501433.1672749184793@mail.yahoo.com> Which is why I have old Triumphs as a hobby, and cheerfully pay a small fortune to have someone else work on my modern cars on the rare?occasion that they need?some work.? ?I don't even change my own oil or brake pads any more, because I'm retired from?working and I have better things to do. BINGO!?? DING DING DING DING Give that man a cigar. Couldn't have said it better myself. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Scarbrough Cc: shop-talk at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Jan 3, 2023 5:25 am Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dead battery question On Mon, Jan 2, 2023 at 8:50 PM old dirtbeard wrote: Agreed, as well. I can tell the difference between an MG TC, TD, TF, or a Triumph TR2, TR3, TR4, etc. from across the street. Nowadays, I cannot even tell the difference between a Kia and a BMW, sad to say...? Cars used to have different designers (because of style, panache, and??lan). Now they all have the same designer: air vs. Drag coefficient ?? Yes, definitely more maintenance is required for the older vehicles, but also it generally?is much easier/quicker maintenance. And I would also say, more enjoyable...? :-) Which is why I have old Triumphs as a hobby, and cheerfully pay a small fortune to have someone else work on my modern cars on the rare?occasion that they need?some work.? ?I don't even change my own oil or brake pads any more, because I'm retired from?working and I have better things to do. -- Jeff _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jibrooks at live.com Tue Jan 3 07:08:01 2023 From: jibrooks at live.com (Jack Brooks) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2023 14:08:01 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dead battery question In-Reply-To: References: <20230102152232.215FCA0C17@autox.team.net> <7F6E9760-A7F6-477F-AD71-DFE7BD6158A6@gmail.com> <629aa1f7-184b-700b-a437-7277dbf80418@snet.net> Message-ID: Yes. TR3 and TR8 here. Jack ________________________________ From: Shop-talk on behalf of Jeff Scarbrough Sent: Tuesday, January 3, 2023 3:25:48 AM Cc: shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dead battery question On Mon, Jan 2, 2023 at 8:50 PM old dirtbeard > wrote: Agreed, as well. I can tell the difference between an MG TC, TD, TF, or a Triumph TR2, TR3, TR4, etc. from across the street. Nowadays, I cannot even tell the difference between a Kia and a BMW, sad to say... Cars used to have different designers (because of style, panache, and ?lan). Now they all have the same designer: air vs. Drag coefficient Yes, definitely more maintenance is required for the older vehicles, but also it generally is much easier/quicker maintenance. And I would also say, more enjoyable... :-) Which is why I have old Triumphs as a hobby, and cheerfully pay a small fortune to have someone else work on my modern cars on the rare occasion that they need some work. I don't even change my own oil or brake pads any more, because I'm retired from working and I have better things to do. -- Jeff -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jem at milleredp.com Tue Jan 3 13:12:13 2023 From: jem at milleredp.com (John Miller) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2023 12:12:13 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dead battery question In-Reply-To: References: <20230101214537.BB003A0CE0@autox.team.net> <1503e114-74ec-1161-7db1-fc84c6cd82f8@sackheads.org> Message-ID: <075d004e-55cc-71f2-0b21-3821db33f0d4@milleredp.com> On 1/1/2023 5:16 PM, Doug Braun wrote: > > It's from Amazon, a "GooLoo" branded model.? I bought it without doing a > lot of research, but over a couple of years > it has saved me and other drivers a bunch of times.? The wires are sort > of thin, but they are only 8 inches long, so it doesn't really matter. Got one as well. It's been great and very useful. John. From dmscheidt at gmail.com Mon Jan 9 22:49:00 2023 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2023 23:49:00 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] old house mortise lock tip Message-ID: I had reason recently to take apart a couple old mortise locks. If you've never taken one apart, they have a bunch of levers and cams, to do the things a door lock and latch needs to do. They also have a bunch of springs, and use the cover to keep things together, so when you take the cover off, it tends to disassemble itself. And it's a real puzzle to put back together. If you put a screw through the spindle holes (knob, lock thumbturn) that's got a head big ehough to bear on the spindle but small enough to pass through the cover hole, you can take the cover off without the main mechanism grenading. If you're working on the mechanism, you may have to remove the screws, but al least you can take pictures of how it was originally. -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jan 10 05:20:55 2023 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2023 12:20:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] old house mortise lock tip In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1673956643.9919920.1673353255276@mail.yahoo.com> Cool tip.? I'll bet there are some special tools that are typical in a locksmith's tool set to do just that.? I remember re-keying Kwikset knobs.? These REQUIRE a special tool to remove the cylinder. Thanks for the tip.? I doubt I'll ever do a mortise lock but if I do forewarned is forearmed. Dave -----Original Message----- From: David Scheidt To: shop-talk Sent: Mon, Jan 9, 2023 11:49 pm Subject: [Shop-talk] old house mortise lock tip I had reason recently to take apart a couple old mortise locks.? If you've never taken one apart, they have a bunch of levers and cams, to do the things a door lock and latch needs to do.? They also have a bunch of springs, and use the cover to keep things together, so when you take the cover off, it tends to disassemble itself.? And it's a real puzzle to put back together.? If you put a screw through the spindle holes (knob, lock thumbturn) that's got a head big ehough to bear on the spindle but small enough to pass through the cover hole, you can take the cover off without the main mechanism grenading.? If you're working on the mechanism, you may have to remove the screws, but al least you can take pictures of how it was originally. -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gene at garrison-grafixx.com Fri Jan 13 19:51:06 2023 From: gene at garrison-grafixx.com (Gene Garrison) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2023 18:51:06 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] suv tires and oil question In-Reply-To: References: <37b174d0-e521-22f4-ea31-a8e4a969aeeb@garrison-grafixx.com> Message-ID: <386592f9-e7ce-4c21-521e-2210751e3d57@garrison-grafixx.com> Thanks, ODB.? And I apologize for not replying sooner. Your points sound reasonable.? And I also change oil more frequently than recommended in the vehicles that I use regularly. But the last few years, the TR6 is? getting driven less than 1000 miles a year, hence my question.? Though generally I try to drive it for at least a half hour whenever I fire it up. Based on the feedback from the list, I think I'm going to be the wild man and go with a two year interval.? :) - GeneG On 8/29/22 20:02, old dirtbeard wrote: > I change oil at 5K miles or at 12 months and use synthetic oil. > Probably overkill for many of my engines, however. > > Regarding oil setting in an unused engine, I believe that synthetic > oil setting in an unused engine probably?would not noticeably > deteriorate for periods?longer than 12 months. > > I know many folks who put synthetic oil in air-cooled motorcycles and > only ride a few hundred miles a year. When draining that oil, it looks > pretty much the same as it did when it was poured into the engine. I > believe?that it probably could be used for longer than 12 months in > that specific scenario. > > I think the 12 month change interval for low mileage engines is mostly > important for engines that routinely see short?trips, do not reach > operating temperatures,and may have condensation build-up in the sump. > It probably also is more important for non-sealed crankcases in humid > environments?where moisture from humidity could condense. > > Moisture also is of course a byproduct of combustion, and if the > engine does not reach and run at normal operating temperatures for > sustained periods of time, moisture is likely to remain in the > crankcase and contaminate the oil. > > I do not believe, however, that simply having oil in the sealed sump > of an unused engine would need to be changed every 12 months from > being in contact with the metal or other materials inside the engine. > > On Mon, Aug 29, 2022 at 6:56 PM Tom Coradeschi wrote: > > The contaminants will cause the oil to degrade, hence the need to > change it on either time or mileage, per the OEM spec (whichever > comes first). > > Tom Coradeschi > Tjcora at icloud.com > >> On Aug 29, 2022, at 1:44 PM, Gene Garrison >> wrote: >> >> ? >> >> I'm glad you brought that up.? I've always wondered about >> changing oil. >> >> So oil sitting in bottles on the shelf doesn't "go bad".? Right? >> >> Then why does oil sitting in a rarely used engine need to be >> changed?? I know it now has contaminants and such in it, but >> those aren't going to cause it to degrade, are they? >> >> - GeneG >> >> On 8/29/22 03:59, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: >>> I just replaced a set of trailer tires that had less than 2500 >>> miles on them because they were ten years old and definitely >>> showing it. >>> >>> I consider tires to be like oil - they should be changed at a >>> mileage or time interval, whichever comes first.? It's just >>> something you have to budget for. >>> >>> On Mon, Aug 29, 2022, 02:04 Bob Spidell >>> wrote: >>> >>> re: "How many years can a set of tires go ..." >>> >>> Subject to debate, and how the tires are maintained. >>> Some--often people who make and sell tires--insist six years >>> is the limit, regardless of mileage, and if the tires are >>> constantly exposed to extreme weather and mileage that's not >>> unreasonable. OTOH, if the tires are kept in a garage not >>> subject to temperature extremes and are only used 'around >>> town' you can usually go more, 7 or 8 years wouldn't be too >>> risky. At any rate, going beyond 10 years is pushing your luck. >>> >>> BUT ... for an SUV I'd be more cautious and probably observe >>> the 6-year 'rule.' SUVs and other trucks are top heavy and a >>> catastrophic failure--i.e. a blowout--esp. on a front tire >>> can cause the vehicle to roll over. Ford just got slapped >>> with a $1B+ liability charge for an old truck that had a >>> blowout, rolled, and the cab squashed the elderly occupants. >>> A couple decades ago Ford got slammed when some incorrect, >>> improperly inflated Firestone tires--Ford and Firestone go >>> WAY back--caused some fatal rollover accidents with some >>> Explorers. >>> >>> My rule of thumb: If I find myself worrying about my tires, >>> it's time for new. Your tires are only three years (+/-) old >>> and, unless they're showing 'checking'--cracking--or other >>> damage they should be good for at least a couple more years. >>> Check your tire pressures regularly (at least once a month). >>> >>> >>> >>> On 8/28/2022 9:19 PM, Shannah Miller wrote: >>>> Thank you, Ian, for commenting to the group.? I will >>>> need tires at some point, and that's good to know. >>>> >>>> That said, my car is the spare car of the family, and >>>> has had the same tires since 2019.? How many years >>>> can a set of tires go if they are just mostly used to >>>> putt around town?? (My car has not quite 10,000 miles >>>> on it.) >>>> >>>> Thanks, >>>> Shannah >>>> >>>> On Sun, Aug 28, 2022 at 7:20 PM Ian McFetridge >>>> wrote: >>>> >>>> I have had the Michelin Defender LTX on my pickup since >>>> fall 2020 and they are wearing well, ride smooth and >>>> quiet.? I?ve used Michelins on trucks since I worked in >>>> the tire dept at Sam?s in college.? They always took >>>> the least amount of weights to balance and had the >>>> least returns for issues or to rebalance.? The manager >>>> at Costco said that is all still true when I bought the >>>> last set.? YMMV :) >>>> >>>> Best >>>> Ian >>>> >>>> On Sun, Aug 28, 2022 at 8:03 PM john niolon >>>> wrote: >>>> >>>> shop content... I drive my suburban into my shop >>>> time for tires... always used Michelin for the last >>>> 20 years with good service... Vehicle is 2008 >>>> Suburban 1500 with 95% highway or town ...no off road >>>> occasional towing my hobby truck to shows on 20' >>>> car hauler (once or twice a year with load >>>> equalizing hitch...)? Looking at reviews on my >>>> first choice Michelin Defender LTX/MS >>>> 275/55-20. The reviews talk a lot about road noise >>>> and rough ride..... My current Michelin Defenders >>>> (bought in Jan 2016 ride smooth and wear well.. 76K >>>> miles on them so far) >>>> I just turned 75 and this might be my last set of >>>> tires Grinning Face with Smiling Eyes?? so I'm >>>> looking for your thoughts on Michelin or others afa >>>> mileage, ride, noise etc. >>>> thanks >>>> john >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> >>>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation? $12.96 >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >>>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> >>>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation? $12.96 >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >>>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shannahquilts at gmail.com >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> >>>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >>>> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >>>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bspidell at comcast.net >>>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation? $12.96 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate at gmail.com >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >>> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/gene at garrison-grafixx.com >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation ?$12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tjcora at icloud.com >> > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jniolon at att.net Sun Jan 15 08:37:42 2023 From: jniolon at att.net (john) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2023 09:37:42 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] retapping a hole References: <1UeYWIMrXP.53zyHVjvTsT.ref@johns-desktop> Message-ID: <1UeYWIMrXP.53zyHVjvTsT@johns-desktop> I have a mirror mount on my truck door that held a rear view mirror. Unfortunately the mirror decided it didn't want to stay with my truck. So, I'm looking for a replacement. The mount is drilled and tapped for 1/4"-28 threads and most of what I find is 1/4-20. I'm wondering if I can re-tap the metal over existing threads with a 1/4-20 thread and it will hold...or will I just make a mess of it and make it broke. The drill side for the two thread sizes are within a 64th or so of being the same and the mount is 7/16" or so wide so I have some meat to play with... suggestions? john another option... drill completely thru mount and find a mirror with a stud long enough to pass thru completely and secure with an acorn nut (or something) at the back side of the mount another caveat... I don't want to remove the mounts from the door... involves removing windows and regulators to get to the internal nuts. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 555-90336.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 72478 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: drillthru.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 20587 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ejrussell61 at gmail.com Sun Jan 15 09:06:34 2023 From: ejrussell61 at gmail.com (Eric Russell) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2023 11:06:34 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] retapping a hole In-Reply-To: <1UeYWIMrXP.53zyHVjvTsT@johns-desktop> References: <1UeYWIMrXP.53zyHVjvTsT.ref@johns-desktop> <1UeYWIMrXP.53zyHVjvTsT@johns-desktop> Message-ID: I think tapping over the existing 1/4-28 will result in weak threads. How about a Heli-Coil in 1/4-20? EjR On Sun, Jan 15, 2023 at 10:46 AM john wrote: > I have a mirror mount on my truck door that held a rear view mirror. > Unfortunately the mirror decided it didn't want to stay with my truck. > So, I'm looking for a replacement. The mount is drilled and tapped for > 1/4"-28 threads and most of what I find is 1/4-20. I'm wondering if I can > re-tap the metal over existing threads with a 1/4-20 thread and it will > hold...or will I just make a mess of it and make it broke. The drill side > for the > two thread sizes are within a 64th or so of being the same and the mount > is 7/16" or so wide so I have some meat to play with... > > suggestions? > > john > > > > another option... drill completely thru mount and find a mirror with a > stud long enough to pass thru completely > and secure with an acorn nut (or something) at the back side of the mount > > > another caveat... I don't want to remove the mounts from the door... > involves removing windows and regulators > to get to the internal nuts. > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ejrussell61 at gmail.com > > -- Eric Russell Mebane, NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 555-90336.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 72478 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: drillthru.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 20587 bytes Desc: not available URL: From doug at dougbraun.com Sun Jan 15 09:58:42 2023 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2023 11:58:42 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] retapping a hole In-Reply-To: <1UeYWIMrXP.53zyHVjvTsT@johns-desktop> References: <1UeYWIMrXP.53zyHVjvTsT.ref@johns-desktop> <1UeYWIMrXP.53zyHVjvTsT@johns-desktop> Message-ID: No! A 1/4-20 thread has a smaller minor diameter, so there is not enough material. Definitely use a 1/4-28 heli-coil. Fortunately these days, there are other manufacturers selling "thread repair kits", so it will be less expensive than you fear (just check Amazon). You may need to drill the hole a bit deeper (with the drill meant for the heli-coil) so that the tap can reach in far enough. A side benefit is that the heli-coiled thread in pot metal will be stronger than before. Also, a 1/4-20 coarse-thread screw would come loose more easily than a fine-thread one. Doug On Sun, Jan 15, 2023 at 10:54 AM john wrote: > I have a mirror mount on my truck door that held a rear view mirror. > Unfortunately the mirror decided it didn't want to stay with my truck. > So, I'm looking for a replacement. The mount is drilled and tapped for > 1/4"-28 threads and most of what I find is 1/4-20. I'm wondering if I can > re-tap the metal over existing threads with a 1/4-20 thread and it will > hold...or will I just make a mess of it and make it broke. The drill side > for the > two thread sizes are within a 64th or so of being the same and the mount > is 7/16" or so wide so I have some meat to play with... > > suggestions? > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Jan 15 10:03:05 2023 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2023 09:03:05 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] retapping a hole In-Reply-To: References: <1UeYWIMrXP.53zyHVjvTsT.ref@johns-desktop> <1UeYWIMrXP.53zyHVjvTsT@johns-desktop> Message-ID: https://www.boltdepot.com/Search.aspx?q=1%2f4+x+28+screw On 1/15/2023 8:06 AM, Eric Russell wrote: > I think tapping over the existing 1/4-28 will result in weak threads. > How about a Heli-Coil in 1/4-20? > > EjR > > On Sun, Jan 15, 2023 at 10:46 AM john wrote: > > I have a mirror mount on my truck door that held a rear view > mirror.? Unfortunately the mirror decided it didn't want to stay > with my truck. > So, I'm looking for a replacement. The mount is drilled and tapped > for 1/4"-28 threads and most of what I find is 1/4-20.? I'm > wondering if I can > re-tap the metal over existing threads with a 1/4-20 thread and it > will hold...or will I just make a mess of it and make it broke. > The drill side for the > two thread sizes are within a 64th or so of being the same and?the > mount is 7/16" or so wide so I have some meat to play with... > suggestions? > john > another option... drill completely thru mount and find a mirror > with a stud long enough to pass thru completely > and secure with an acorn nut (or something)? at the back side of > the mount > another caveat... I don't want to remove the mounts from the > door... involves removing windows and regulators > to get to the internal nuts. > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ejrussell61 at gmail.com > > > > -- > Eric Russell > Mebane, NC > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 555-90336.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 72478 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: drillthru.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 20587 bytes Desc: not available URL: From patintexas at icloud.com Sun Jan 15 11:28:21 2023 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2023 12:28:21 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] retapping a hole In-Reply-To: <1UeYWIMrXP.53zyHVjvTsT@johns-desktop> References: <1UeYWIMrXP.53zyHVjvTsT@johns-desktop> Message-ID: <29B7D816-5CCE-469F-954A-6942625C33B0@icloud.com> I agree w/using a Helicoil. Also, hit the threads with a bit of blue locktite. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jan 15, 2023, at 10:00 AM, john wrote: ? I have a mirror mount on my truck door that held a rear view mirror. Unfortunately the mirror decided it didn't want to stay with my truck. So, I'm looking for a replacement. The mount is drilled and tapped for 1/4"-28 threads and most of what I find is 1/4-20. I'm wondering if I can re-tap the metal over existing threads with a 1/4-20 thread and it will hold...or will I just make a mess of it and make it broke. The drill side for the two thread sizes are within a 64th or so of being the same and the mount is 7/16" or so wide so I have some meat to play with... suggestions? john <555-90336.jpg> another option... drill completely thru mount and find a mirror with a stud long enough to pass thru completely and secure with an acorn nut (or something) at the back side of the mount another caveat... I don't want to remove the mounts from the door... involves removing windows and regulators to get to the internal nuts. _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Sun Jan 15 12:00:31 2023 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2023 19:00:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] retapping a hole In-Reply-To: <1UeYWIMrXP.53zyHVjvTsT@johns-desktop> References: <1UeYWIMrXP.53zyHVjvTsT.ref@johns-desktop> <1UeYWIMrXP.53zyHVjvTsT@johns-desktop> Message-ID: <1798611488.1699510.1673809232100@mail.yahoo.com> You could retap it for 1/4-20 and use some loctite (R) thread locker to compensate for the feeble threads that result.? Or just drill it clear and epoxy it in.? Of course there's no turning back at that point. Dave -----Original Message----- From: john To: shop-talk Sent: Sun, Jan 15, 2023 9:37 am Subject: [Shop-talk] retapping a hole I have a mirror mount on my truck door that held a rear view mirror.? Unfortunately the mirror decided it didn't want to stay with my truck.So, I'm looking for a replacement. The mount is drilled and tapped for 1/4"-28 threads and most of what I find is 1/4-20.? I'm wondering if I canre-tap the metal over existing threads with a 1/4-20 thread and it will hold...or will I just make a mess of it and make it broke. The drill side for thetwo thread sizes are within a 64th or so of being the same and?the mount is 7/16" or so wide so I have some meat to play with...?suggestions??john???another option... drill completely thru mount and find a mirror with a stud long enough to pass thru completelyand secure with an acorn nut (or something)? at the back side of the mount??another caveat... I don't want to remove the mounts from the door... involves removing windows and regulatorsto get to the internal nuts._______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: drillthru.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 20587 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 555-90336.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 72478 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ed.reiss at hotmail.com Sun Jan 15 22:01:25 2023 From: ed.reiss at hotmail.com (Ed Reiss) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2023 05:01:25 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Redrilling a 1/4-28 hole Message-ID: John -- Try a Heli-coil for 1/4-20. You drill out the current hole and rethread using the heli-coil tap. Then thread in the heli-coil. Presto-change-o -- you now have a 1/4-20 threaded hole You might find the heli-coil kit at a well-stocked hardware store or Amazon. Heli-coils are the go-to for stripped threads or any other reason an existing threaded hole is unusable. Good luck Ed -- -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From watsonm05 at comcast.net Mon Jan 16 06:53:19 2023 From: watsonm05 at comcast.net (Mark Watson) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2023 14:53:19 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Shop-talk] Redrilling a 1/4-28 hole In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1680007876.1155485.1673877199911@connect.xfinity.com> John, I've used Heli-Coils a couple of times and I found them ok. Watched enough You-Tube videos where various machinists have used them apparently with success. However, were I putting in a thread repair for something really important I'd consider Time-Serts: https://time-serts.com/store/1-4-20-thread-repair-kit/ Though the kit for one thread repair is a bit pricey :-( . Just a thought. For my fellow Americans Happy Martin Luther King Day. For everyone else happy Monday. Good luck, Mark > On 01/16/2023 6:01 AM Ed Reiss wrote: > > > John -- Try a Heli-coil for 1/4-20. > > You drill out the current hole and rethread using the heli-coil tap. Then thread in the heli-coil. Presto-change-o -- you now have a 1/4-20 threaded hole > > You might find the heli-coil kit at a well-stocked hardware store or Amazon. > > Heli-coils are the go-to for stripped threads or any other reason an existing threaded hole is unusable. > > Good luck > Ed > -- > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/watsonm05 at comcast.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jem at milleredp.com Mon Jan 16 10:02:17 2023 From: jem at milleredp.com (John Miller) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2023 09:02:17 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Redrilling a 1/4-28 hole In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On 1/15/2023 9:01 PM, Ed Reiss wrote: > John -- Try a Heli-coil for 1/4-20. > > You drill out the current hole and rethread using the heli-coil tap. > Then thread in the heli-coil. Presto-change-o -- you now have a 1/4-20 > threaded hole I am a big fan of Timesert inserts. If you've got the material they're far more positive than a Helicoil. Alas, they're also much more expensive... John. From JIBrooks at live.com Tue Jan 17 18:58:37 2023 From: JIBrooks at live.com (Jack Brooks) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2023 01:58:37 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] retapping a hole In-Reply-To: <1UeYWIMrXP.53zyHVjvTsT@johns-desktop> References: <1UeYWIMrXP.53zyHVjvTsT.ref@johns-desktop> <1UeYWIMrXP.53zyHVjvTsT@johns-desktop> Message-ID: I guess I am confused. While I only use Home Depot hardware as a last resort, even they have ?-28 bolts in a variety of heads and finishes. Why work hard to make a ?-20 fit, when ?-28 hardware is available? Jack From: Shop-talk On Behalf Of john Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2023 7:38 AM To: shop-talk Subject: [Shop-talk] retapping a hole I have a mirror mount on my truck door that held a rear view mirror. Unfortunately the mirror decided it didn't want to stay with my truck. So, I'm looking for a replacement. The mount is drilled and tapped for 1/4"-28 threads and most of what I find is 1/4-20. I'm wondering if I can re-tap the metal over existing threads with a 1/4-20 thread and it will hold...or will I just make a mess of it and make it broke. The drill side for the two thread sizes are within a 64th or so of being the same and the mount is 7/16" or so wide so I have some meat to play with... suggestions? john [cid:image001.jpg at 01D92A9D.146648E0] another option... drill completely thru mount and find a mirror with a stud long enough to pass thru completely and secure with an acorn nut (or something) at the back side of the mount [cid:image002.jpg at 01D92A9D.146648E0] another caveat... I don't want to remove the mounts from the door... involves removing windows and regulators to get to the internal nuts. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 72478 bytes Desc: image001.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 20587 bytes Desc: image002.jpg URL: From jem at milleredp.com Tue Jan 17 19:20:39 2023 From: jem at milleredp.com (John Miller) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2023 18:20:39 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] retapping a hole In-Reply-To: References: <1UeYWIMrXP.53zyHVjvTsT.ref@johns-desktop> <1UeYWIMrXP.53zyHVjvTsT@johns-desktop> Message-ID: <67551287-2421-bb03-9681-17f778f7ffcf@milleredp.com> On 1/17/2023 5:58 PM, Jack Brooks wrote: > I guess I am confused. ?While I only use Home Depot hardware as a last > resort, even they have ?-28 bolts in a variety of heads and finishes. > Why work hard to make a ?-20 fit, when ?-28 hardware is available? And if you don't find it at Home Depot the local Ace will have it. John. From patintexas at icloud.com Tue Jan 17 19:29:26 2023 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2023 20:29:26 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] retapping a hole In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <88EAF7A7-A3A0-4E6C-8B73-86FA80FC1611@icloud.com> It isn?t just a bolt, but a stud in the back of the mirror- as I understand it. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jan 17, 2023, at 8:16 PM, Jack Brooks wrote: ? I guess I am confused. While I only use Home Depot hardware as a last resort, even they have ?-28 bolts in a variety of heads and finishes. Why work hard to make a ?-20 fit, when ?-28 hardware is available? Jack From: Shop-talk On Behalf Of john Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2023 7:38 AM To: shop-talk Subject: [Shop-talk] retapping a hole I have a mirror mount on my truck door that held a rear view mirror. Unfortunately the mirror decided it didn't want to stay with my truck. So, I'm looking for a replacement. The mount is drilled and tapped for 1/4"-28 threads and most of what I find is 1/4-20. I'm wondering if I can re-tap the metal over existing threads with a 1/4-20 thread and it will hold...or will I just make a mess of it and make it broke. The drill side for the two thread sizes are within a 64th or so of being the same and the mount is 7/16" or so wide so I have some meat to play with... suggestions? john another option... drill completely thru mount and find a mirror with a stud long enough to pass thru completely and secure with an acorn nut (or something) at the back side of the mount another caveat... I don't want to remove the mounts from the door... involves removing windows and regulators to get to the internal nuts. _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jniolon at att.net Tue Jan 17 20:22:53 2023 From: jniolon at att.net (john) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2023 21:22:53 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] retapping a hole In-Reply-To: <88EAF7A7-A3A0-4E6C-8B73-86FA80FC1611@icloud.com> References: <88EAF7A7-A3A0-4E6C-8B73-86FA80FC1611@icloud.com> Message-ID: <1UeYYbjv9v.15ahfp3V0JL@johns-desktop> Pat is correct . It is a stud with a ball mount attached to the mirror (to allow swivel) the other end is a 1/4-20 stud that screws into the mirror base mount... Sooooo I have to re-thread the mount from 1/4-28 to 1/4-20 j ----- Original Message ----- From: Pat Horne To: Jack Brooks Cc: john , shop-talk Sent: 1/17/2023 8:29:26 PM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] retapping a hole It isn?t just a bolt, but a stud in the back of the mirror- as I understand it. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jan 17, 2023, at 8:16 PM, Jack Brooks wrote: ? I guess I am confused. While I only use Home Depot hardware as a last resort, even they have ?-28 bolts in a variety of heads and finishes. Why work hard to make a ?-20 fit, when ?-28 hardware is available? Jack From: Shop-talk On Behalf Of john Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2023 7:38 AM To: shop-talk Subject: [Shop-talk] retapping a hole I have a mirror mount on my truck door that held a rear view mirror. Unfortunately the mirror decided it didn't want to stay with my truck. So, I'm looking for a replacement. The mount is drilled and tapped for 1/4"-28 threads and most of what I find is 1/4-20. I'm wondering if I can re-tap the metal over existing threads with a 1/4-20 thread and it will hold...or will I just make a mess of it and make it broke. The drill side for the two thread sizes are within a 64th or so of being the same and the mount is 7/16" or so wide so I have some meat to play with... suggestions? john another option... drill completely thru mount and find a mirror with a stud long enough to pass thru completely and secure with an acorn nut (or something) at the back side of the mount another caveat... I don't want to remove the mounts from the door... involves removing windows and regulators to get to the internal nuts. _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ejrussell61 at gmail.com Tue Jan 17 21:00:26 2023 From: ejrussell61 at gmail.com (Eric Russell) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2023 23:00:26 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] retapping a hole In-Reply-To: <1UeYYbjv9v.15ahfp3V0JL@johns-desktop> References: <88EAF7A7-A3A0-4E6C-8B73-86FA80FC1611@icloud.com> <1UeYYbjv9v.15ahfp3V0JL@johns-desktop> Message-ID: Make sure it is 1/4-20 and not metric. (since it is likely to have been made you know where...) EjR On Tue, Jan 17, 2023 at 10:55 PM john wrote: > Pat is correct . It is a stud with a ball mount attached to the mirror > (to allow swivel) the other end is a 1/4-20 stud that > screws into the mirror base mount... Sooooo I have to re-thread the mount > from 1/4-28 to 1/4-20 > > j > > > *----- Original Message -----* > *From:* Pat Horne > *To:* Jack Brooks > *Cc:* john , shop-talk > *Sent:* 1/17/2023 8:29:26 PM > *Subject:* Re: [Shop-talk] retapping a hole > ------------------------------ > It isn?t just a bolt, but a stud in the back of the mirror- as I > understand it. > > Peace, > Pat > > Pat Horne > We support Habitat for Humanity > > > On Jan 17, 2023, at 8:16 PM, Jack Brooks wrote: > > ? > > I guess I am confused. While I only use Home Depot hardware as a last > resort, even they have ?-28 bolts in a variety of heads and finishes. Why > work hard to make a ?-20 fit, when ?-28 hardware is available? > > Jack > > > > *From:* Shop-talk *On Behalf Of *john > *Sent:* Sunday, January 15, 2023 7:38 AM > *To:* shop-talk > *Subject:* [Shop-talk] retapping a hole > > > > I have a mirror mount on my truck door that held a rear view mirror. > Unfortunately the mirror decided it didn't want to stay with my truck. > > So, I'm looking for a replacement. The mount is drilled and tapped for > 1/4"-28 threads and most of what I find is 1/4-20. I'm wondering if I can > > re-tap the metal over existing threads with a 1/4-20 thread and it will > hold...or will I just make a mess of it and make it broke. The drill side > for the > > two thread sizes are within a 64th or so of being the same and the mount > is 7/16" or so wide so I have some meat to play with... > > > > suggestions? > > > > john > > > > > > > > > another option... drill completely thru mount and find a mirror with a > stud long enough to pass thru completely > > and secure with an acorn nut (or something) at the back side of the mount > > > > > > > > another caveat... I don't want to remove the mounts from the door... > involves removing windows and regulators > > to get to the internal nuts. > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ejrussell61 at gmail.com > > -- Eric Russell Mebane, NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From strovato at optonline.net Wed Jan 18 19:39:11 2023 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2023 21:39:11 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] left the light on? In-Reply-To: References: <88EAF7A7-A3A0-4E6C-8B73-86FA80FC1611@icloud.com> <1UeYYbjv9v.15ahfp3V0JL@johns-desktop> Message-ID: <63C65E4100880B53@cmx-alt-rgout004.mx-altice.prod.cloud.synchronoss.net> (added by postmaster@optonline.net) I find that lights and other things keep getting left on in my garage/shop that should be turned off. If I leave the garage door open, I get notifications on my phone from my opener. I'm looking for something like that for my lights. I can use something like a smart bulb or smart plug on a circuit controlled by a wall switch. I can see if the smart device is alive or if power to it has been cut. I can also replace that wall switch with a smart switch. I can then see the status of that switch. What I don't seem to be able to do is tell it to send me a notification if the light has been on for more than an hour. I have looked at a few smart switches, smart bulbs and smart plugs. Obviously, I haven't checked them all. None seem to support doing this. I thought maybe IFTTT would help, but I haven't figured out how to do it. Do any of you have any ideas? Also, I know I could use timers, motion sensors, etc to control things. That would be another way to go. Right now, I just want a notification based on being turned on for an amount of time. Thanks. -Steve T. -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com From patintexas at icloud.com Wed Jan 18 19:59:18 2023 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2023 20:59:18 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] left the light on? In-Reply-To: <63C65E4100880B53@cmx-alt-rgout004.mx-altice.prod.cloud.synchronoss.net> (added by postmaster@optonline.net) References: <63C65E4100880B53@cmx-alt-rgout004.mx-altice.prod.cloud.synchronoss.net> (added by postmaster@optonline.net) Message-ID: Steve, it?s not the best way, but is it possible to trick your opener into sending a door open message when the lights are on? Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jan 18, 2023, at 8:55 PM, Steven Trovato wrote: ?I find that lights and other things keep getting left on in my garage/shop that should be turned off. If I leave the garage door open, I get notifications on my phone from my opener. I'm looking for something like that for my lights. I can use something like a smart bulb or smart plug on a circuit controlled by a wall switch. I can see if the smart device is alive or if power to it has been cut. I can also replace that wall switch with a smart switch. I can then see the status of that switch. What I don't seem to be able to do is tell it to send me a notification if the light has been on for more than an hour. I have looked at a few smart switches, smart bulbs and smart plugs. Obviously, I haven't checked them all. None seem to support doing this. I thought maybe IFTTT would help, but I haven't figured out how to do it. Do any of you have any ideas? Also, I know I could use timers, motion sensors, etc to control things. That would be another way to go. Right now, I just want a notification based on being turned on for an amount of time. Thanks. -Steve T. -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com From alfuller194 at gmail.com Wed Jan 18 20:17:18 2023 From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (Al Fuller) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2023 19:17:18 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] left the light on? In-Reply-To: <63c8af00.ca0a0220.9bd76.27b6SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com> References: <88EAF7A7-A3A0-4E6C-8B73-86FA80FC1611@icloud.com> <1UeYYbjv9v.15ahfp3V0JL@johns-desktop> <63c8af00.ca0a0220.9bd76.27b6SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com> Message-ID: This doesn't address your question about notification, but how about a motion sensor for the lights? Once you aren't there for a period of time the lights shut off. ________________ Best Regards, Al Fuller On Wed, Jan 18, 2023, 6:46 PM Steven Trovato wrote: > I find that lights and other things keep getting left on in my > garage/shop that should be turned off. If I leave the garage door > open, I get notifications on my phone from my opener. I'm looking > for something like that for my lights. I can use something like a > smart bulb or smart plug on a circuit controlled by a wall switch. I > can see if the smart device is alive or if power to it has been > cut. I can also replace that wall switch with a smart switch. I can > then see the status of that switch. What I don't seem to be able to > do is tell it to send me a notification if the light has been on for > more than an hour. I have looked at a few smart switches, smart > bulbs and smart plugs. Obviously, I haven't checked them all. None > seem to support doing this. I thought maybe IFTTT would help, but I > haven't figured out how to do it. Do any of you have any > ideas? Also, I know I could use timers, motion sensors, etc to > control things. That would be another way to go. Right now, I just > want a notification based on being turned on for an amount of time. > Thanks. > > -Steve T. > > > -- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > www.avast.com > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/alfuller194 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From strovato at optonline.net Wed Jan 18 21:03:02 2023 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2023 23:03:02 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] left the light on? In-Reply-To: References: <63C65E4100880B53@cmx-alt-rgout004.mx-altice.prod.cloud.synchronoss.net> Message-ID: <63C65DD4008C7469@cmx-alt-rgout005.mx-altice.prod.cloud.synchronoss.net> (added by postmaster@optonline.net) Well, I don't know how I would do that. Besides, I want to know that the light is on. I want to know that the garage is open. I don't want one notification that would cover both conditions without telling me which one. Plus, if this were to work out, I could see adding a similar function to other things in the shop. -Steve At 09:59 PM 1/18/2023, Pat Horne wrote: >Steve, it's not the best way, but is it possible to trick your >opener into sending a door open message when the lights are on? > >Peace, >Pat > >Pat Horne >We support Habitat for Humanity -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com From strovato at optonline.net Wed Jan 18 21:06:46 2023 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2023 23:06:46 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] left the light on? In-Reply-To: References: <88EAF7A7-A3A0-4E6C-8B73-86FA80FC1611@icloud.com> <1UeYYbjv9v.15ahfp3V0JL@johns-desktop> <63c8af00.ca0a0220.9bd76.27b6SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <63C65DD4008C753E@cmx-alt-rgout005.mx-altice.prod.cloud.synchronoss.net> (added by postmaster@optonline.net) Yes, as I said, timers and motion sensors is another way to go. I have done that in other areas. If I'm working under the car one evening, I really don't want the light to go out. Then I'd have to crawl out in the dark and flap my arms like a bird to trip the sensor. I don't think that would be best for this location. -Steve At 10:17 PM 1/18/2023, Al Fuller wrote: >This doesn't address your question about >notification, but how about a motion sensor for >the lights? Once you aren't there for a period of time the lights shut off. > >________________ >Best Regards, >Al Fuller > >On Wed, Jan 18, 2023, 6:46 PM Steven Trovato ><strovato at optonline.net> wrote: >I find that lights and other things keep getting left on in my >garage/shop that should be turned off.? If I leave the garage door >open, I get notifications on my phone from my opener.? I'm looking >for something like that for my lights.? I can use something like a >smart bulb or smart plug on a circuit controlled by a wall switch.? I >can see if the smart device is alive or if power to it has been >cut.? I can also replace that wall switch with a smart switch.? I can >then see the status of that switch.? What I don't seem to be able to >do is tell it to send me a notification if the light has been on for >more than an hour.? I have looked at a few smart switches, smart >bulbs and smart plugs.? Obviously, I haven't checked them all.? ? None >seem to support doing this.? I thought maybe IFTTT would help, but I >haven't figured out how to do it.? Do any of you have any >ideas?? Also, I know I could use timers, motion sensors, etc to >control things.? That would be another way to go.? Right now, I just >want a notification based on being turned on for an amount of time.? Thanks. > >-Steve T. > > >-- >This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. >www.avast.com >_______________________________________________ > >Shop-talk at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation? $12.96 >Archive: >http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >http://autox.team.net/archive > >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/alfuller194 at gmail.com -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alfuller194 at gmail.com Wed Jan 18 22:19:03 2023 From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (Al Fuller) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2023 21:19:03 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] left the light on? In-Reply-To: <63c8c236.810a0220.7283.4d96SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com> References: <88EAF7A7-A3A0-4E6C-8B73-86FA80FC1611@icloud.com> <1UeYYbjv9v.15ahfp3V0JL@johns-desktop> <63c8af00.ca0a0220.9bd76.27b6SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com> <63c8c236.810a0220.7283.4d96SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com> Message-ID: Not a good look! ________________ Best Regards, Al Fuller On Wed, Jan 18, 2023, 8:08 PM Steven Trovato wrote: > Yes, as I said, timers and motion sensors is another way to go. I have > done that in other areas. If I'm working under the car one evening, I > really don't want the light to go out. Then I'd have to crawl out in the > dark and flap my arms like a bird to trip the sensor. I don't think that > would be best for this location. > > -Steve > > At 10:17 PM 1/18/2023, Al Fuller wrote: > > This doesn't address your question about notification, but how about a > motion sensor for the lights? Once you aren't there for a period of time > the lights shut off. > > ________________ > Best Regards, > Al Fuller > > On Wed, Jan 18, 2023, 6:46 PM Steven Trovato > wrote: > I find that lights and other things keep getting left on in my > garage/shop that should be turned off.? If I leave the garage door > open, I get notifications on my phone from my opener.? I'm looking > for something like that for my lights.? I can use something like a > smart bulb or smart plug on a circuit controlled by a wall switch.? I > can see if the smart device is alive or if power to it has been > cut.? I can also replace that wall switch with a smart switch.? I can > then see the status of that switch.? What I don't seem to be able to > do is tell it to send me a notification if the light has been on for > more than an hour.? I have looked at a few smart switches, smart > bulbs and smart plugs.? Obviously, I haven't checked them all.? ? None > seem to support doing this.? I thought maybe IFTTT would help, but I > haven't figured out how to do it.? Do any of you have any > ideas?? Also, I know I could use timers, motion sensors, etc to > control things.? That would be another way to go.? Right now, I just > want a notification based on being turned on for an amount of time.? > Thanks. > > -Steve T. > > > -- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > www.avast.com > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/alfuller194 at gmail.com > > > > > Virus-free.www.avast.com > > <#m_-6441256165918103903_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alfuller194 at gmail.com Wed Jan 18 22:26:30 2023 From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (Al Fuller) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2023 21:26:30 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] left the light on? In-Reply-To: <63c8c3cf.050a0220.5dc78.5e94SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com> References: <63C65E4100880B53@cmx-alt-rgout004.mx-altice.prod.cloud.synchronoss.net> <63c8c3cf.050a0220.5dc78.5e94SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com> Message-ID: What other things do you have in mind? This is beginning to sound like a job for a microcontroller or microcomputer like Arduino or Raspberry Pi - either of which could easily anchor the light sensor and motion sensor needed for your foundation use case, plus other functions. ________________ Best Regards, Al Fuller On Wed, Jan 18, 2023, 8:15 PM Steven Trovato wrote: > Well, I don't know how I would do that. Besides, I want to know that > the light is on. I want to know that the garage is open. I don't > want one notification that would cover both conditions without > telling me which one. Plus, if this were to work out, I could see > adding a similar function to other things in the shop. > > -Steve > > At 09:59 PM 1/18/2023, Pat Horne wrote: > > >Steve, it's not the best way, but is it possible to trick your > >opener into sending a door open message when the lights are on? > > > >Peace, > >Pat > > > >Pat Horne > >We support Habitat for Humanity > > > -- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > www.avast.com > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/alfuller194 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Thu Jan 19 04:35:49 2023 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2023 11:35:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] left the light on? In-Reply-To: <63C65DD4008C7469@cmx-alt-rgout005.mx-altice.prod.cloud.synchronoss.net> References: <63C65E4100880B53@cmx-alt-rgout004.mx-altice.prod.cloud.synchronoss.net> <63C65DD4008C7469@cmx-alt-rgout005.mx-altice.prod.cloud.synchronoss.net> Message-ID: <1945446675.3545610.1674128149404@mail.yahoo.com> How about a web cam? Dave -----Original Message----- From: Steven Trovato To: Pat Horne Cc: shop-talk Sent: Wed, Jan 18, 2023 10:03 pm Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] left the light on? Well, I don't know how I would do that.? Besides, I want to know that the light is on.? I want to know that the garage is open.? I don't want one notification that would cover both conditions without telling me which one.? Plus, if this were to work out, I could see adding a similar function to other things in the shop. -Steve At 09:59 PM 1/18/2023, Pat Horne wrote: >Steve, it's not the best way, but is it possible to trick your >opener into sending a door open message when the lights are on? > >Peace, >Pat > >Pat Horne >We support Habitat for Humanity -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bkahler1 at gmail.com Thu Jan 19 05:13:36 2023 From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2023 07:13:36 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] left the light on? In-Reply-To: <1945446675.3545610.1674128149404@mail.yahoo.com> References: <63C65E4100880B53@cmx-alt-rgout004.mx-altice.prod.cloud.synchronoss.net> <63C65DD4008C7469@cmx-alt-rgout005.mx-altice.prod.cloud.synchronoss.net> <1945446675.3545610.1674128149404@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: You might consider turning over the light control to alexa. I use Alexa to turn on and turn off lights at various times and also use Alexa to turn off my shop compressor every night at 10pm. I'm not sure if Alexa can tell you if something is turned on but I wouldn't be surprised if the feature is available. I also use Alexa to open and close my garage doors on voice request. Brad On Thu, Jan 19, 2023 at 6:49 AM DAVID MASSEY wrote: > How about a web cam? > > Dave > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Steven Trovato > To: Pat Horne > Cc: shop-talk > Sent: Wed, Jan 18, 2023 10:03 pm > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] left the light on? > > Well, I don't know how I would do that. Besides, I want to know that > the light is on. I want to know that the garage is open. I don't > want one notification that would cover both conditions without > telling me which one. Plus, if this were to work out, I could see > adding a similar function to other things in the shop. > > -Steve > > At 09:59 PM 1/18/2023, Pat Horne wrote: > > >Steve, it's not the best way, but is it possible to trick your > >opener into sending a door open message when the lights are on? > > > >Peace, > >Pat > > > >Pat Horne > >We support Habitat for Humanity > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 1789alpine at gmail.com Thu Jan 19 06:45:35 2023 From: 1789alpine at gmail.com (Jim Stone) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2023 08:45:35 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] left the light on? In-Reply-To: <63c8ca74.050a0220.ca2b.8fe3SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com> References: <88EAF7A7-A3A0-4E6C-8B73-86FA80FC1611@icloud.com> <1UeYYbjv9v.15ahfp3V0JL@johns-desktop> <63c8af00.ca0a0220.9bd76.27b6SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com> <63c8ca74.050a0220.ca2b.8fe3SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <723E2B82-6584-40B5-8A11-98A25EC50DE1@gmail.com> FWIW, I am a big fan of motion sensors in the shop but have had the same problem with the lights going out when I?m doing something that doesn?t trigger the sensor. My patch was to put a smart bulb in wall plug fixture. When I get caught in the dark I just ask Alexa to "turn on the backup light.? That is just a patch because I am too cheap to replace a perfectly good switch; I will eventually put in a smart motion sensor switch and that should solve all my needs. > On Jan 18, 2023, at 11:06 PM, Steven Trovato wrote: > > Yes, as I said, timers and motion sensors is another way to go. I have done that in other areas. If I'm working under the car one evening, I really don't want the light to go out. Then I'd have to crawl out in the dark and flap my arms like a bird to trip the sensor. I don't think that would be best for this location. > > -Steve > > At 10:17 PM 1/18/2023, Al Fuller wrote: >> This doesn't address your question about notification, but how about a motion sensor for the lights? Once you aren't there for a period of time the lights shut off. >> >> ________________ >> Best Regards, >> Al Fuller >> >> On Wed, Jan 18, 2023, 6:46 PM Steven Trovato > wrote: >> I find that lights and other things keep getting left on in my >> garage/shop that should be turned off.? If I leave the garage door >> open, I get notifications on my phone from my opener.? I'm looking >> for something like that for my lights.? I can use something like a >> smart bulb or smart plug on a circuit controlled by a wall switch.? I >> can see if the smart device is alive or if power to it has been >> cut.? I can also replace that wall switch with a smart switch.? I can >> then see the status of that switch.? What I don't seem to be able to >> do is tell it to send me a notification if the light has been on for >> more than an hour.? I have looked at a few smart switches, smart >> bulbs and smart plugs.? Obviously, I haven't checked them all.? ? None >> seem to support doing this.? I thought maybe IFTTT would help, but I >> haven't figured out how to do it.? Do any of you have any >> ideas?? Also, I know I could use timers, motion sensors, etc to >> control things.? That would be another way to go.? Right now, I just >> want a notification based on being turned on for an amount of time.? Thanks. >> >> -Steve T. >> >> >> -- >> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. >> www.avast.com >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation? $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/alfuller194 at gmail.com > > Virus-free.www.avast.com _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789alpine at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From parkanzky at gmail.com Thu Jan 19 07:19:43 2023 From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2023 09:19:43 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] left the light on? In-Reply-To: <63c8b167.050a0220.acd0f.2398SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com> References: <88EAF7A7-A3A0-4E6C-8B73-86FA80FC1611@icloud.com> <1UeYYbjv9v.15ahfp3V0JL@johns-desktop> <63c8b167.050a0220.acd0f.2398SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com> Message-ID: Check out the Wyze switch. It will still allow you to control the lights from the switch, can control other devices from the switch (i.e. double press/hold down to turn on/off other wyze lights/plugs/switches/etc so you can control more lights than are just on that circuit), and can be controlled remotely from the app or by Alexa. You can also program routines. I _think_ you can tell it to notify you if they're on after a certain amount of time or past a certain hour, but you can also just tell it to make sure all the lights are off after 1:00 AM or whatever so that if you do forget and leave them on they'll turn themselves off that night. -Paul On Wed, Jan 18, 2023 at 9:56 PM Steven Trovato wrote: > I find that lights and other things keep getting left on in my > garage/shop that should be turned off. If I leave the garage door > open, I get notifications on my phone from my opener. I'm looking > for something like that for my lights. I can use something like a > smart bulb or smart plug on a circuit controlled by a wall switch. I > can see if the smart device is alive or if power to it has been > cut. I can also replace that wall switch with a smart switch. I can > then see the status of that switch. What I don't seem to be able to > do is tell it to send me a notification if the light has been on for > more than an hour. I have looked at a few smart switches, smart > bulbs and smart plugs. Obviously, I haven't checked them all. None > seem to support doing this. I thought maybe IFTTT would help, but I > haven't figured out how to do it. Do any of you have any > ideas? Also, I know I could use timers, motion sensors, etc to > control things. That would be another way to go. Right now, I just > want a notification based on being turned on for an amount of time. > Thanks. > > -Steve T. > > > -- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > www.avast.com > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Thu Jan 19 09:22:52 2023 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2023 11:22:52 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Garage Floor Paint Message-ID: Hi all... I've decided to coat my garage floor with something - the bare concrete just sheds too much dust to consider the garage "clean". Every time I sweep, it looks like Pigpen from the Peanuts comics. I can hire a painting contractor to come in and do the job, but it would be a lot easier on me if I could do half at a time (shifting all the boxes and benches from half to half), but I expect that would increase the cost of the contractor. So, are there good DIY solutions to garage floor coatings? I'm not as concerned about the aesthetics of the seam where the coatings overlap - anything is better than what I've got. Associated question: The original builders put some gouges and craters in the floor. Nothing too big, but maybe there's a successful way to fill them before coating? -- Jeff From ejrussell61 at gmail.com Thu Jan 19 10:49:57 2023 From: ejrussell61 at gmail.com (Eric Russell) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2023 12:49:57 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Garage Floor Paint In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Floor coatings is an oft-discussed topic in the forums at Garage Journal ( https://www.garagejournal.com/). Might be worth searching for some of the threads there. But do not blame me for the time you waste spend there... EjR On Thu, Jan 19, 2023 at 12:25 PM Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > Hi all... I've decided to coat my garage floor with something - the > bare concrete just sheds too much dust to consider the garage "clean". > Every time I sweep, it looks like Pigpen from the Peanuts comics. > > I can hire a painting contractor to come in and do the job, but it > would be a lot easier on me if I could do half at a time (shifting all > the boxes and benches from half to half), but I expect that would > increase the cost of the contractor. So, are there good DIY solutions > to garage floor coatings? I'm not as concerned about the aesthetics > of the seam where the coatings overlap - anything is better than what > I've got. > > Associated question: The original builders put some gouges and > craters in the floor. Nothing too big, but maybe there's a successful > way to fill them before coating? > > -- Jeff > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ejrussell61 at gmail.com > > -- Eric Russell Mebane, NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From JIBrooks at live.com Thu Jan 19 10:55:32 2023 From: JIBrooks at live.com (Jack Brooks) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2023 17:55:32 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Garage Floor Paint In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I'd suggest epoxy with a light aggregate to avoid slipping, but prep, either mechanical or chemical, is key. Jack -----Original Message----- From: Shop-talk On Behalf Of Jeff Scarbrough Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2023 8:23 AM To: shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: [Shop-talk] Garage Floor Paint Hi all... I've decided to coat my garage floor with something - the bare concrete just sheds too much dust to consider the garage "clean". Every time I sweep, it looks like Pigpen from the Peanuts comics. I can hire a painting contractor to come in and do the job, but it would be a lot easier on me if I could do half at a time (shifting all the boxes and benches from half to half), but I expect that would increase the cost of the contractor. So, are there good DIY solutions to garage floor coatings? I'm not as concerned about the aesthetics of the seam where the coatings overlap - anything is better than what I've got. Associated question: The original builders put some gouges and craters in the floor. Nothing too big, but maybe there's a successful way to fill them before coating? -- Jeff _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibrooks at live.com From james.f.juhas at snet.net Thu Jan 19 10:55:15 2023 From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2023 12:55:15 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] left the light on? In-Reply-To: <63C65DD4008C753E@cmx-alt-rgout005.mx-altice.prod.cloud.synchronoss.net> (added by postmaster@optonline.net) References: <63C65DD4008C753E@cmx-alt-rgout005.mx-altice.prod.cloud.synchronoss.net> (added by postmaster@optonline.net) Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From strovato at optonline.net Thu Jan 19 11:40:09 2023 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2023 13:40:09 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] left the light on? In-Reply-To: References: <63C65DD4008C753E@cmx-alt-rgout005.mx-altice.prod.cloud.synchronoss.net> Message-ID: <63C65DD400BC3D71@cmx-alt-rgout005.mx-altice.prod.cloud.synchronoss.net> (added by postmaster@optonline.net) Lots of interesting ideas! webcam. This will allow me to look and see if the lights are on, but I don't think it can send me a notification if they are left on. Alexa. This is interesting. If I can tell Alexa to alert me if lights are on for an hour, that would be good. I'm not sure if it can do that. I'll have to look into it. Motion sensor + backup light. This is a different approach that I will consider if I can't get what I'm looking for. Wyze switch. I am not familiar with the switch, but I do have Wyze smart plug modules and smart light bulbs. The Wyze app does not seem to support what I'm looking for. Thermostat hijack. There's really no reason to do that. It still won't give me the notifications I want. If I just want to turn light on or off, I can do that with smart switch, smart plug module or smart switch. You guys are all great at creative problem solving. I was hoping to figure out how to get a notification if the lights are left on. If I can't find a way to do that, I will have to look into some of these things as a plan B. Thank you all! -Steve -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com From dirtbeard at gmail.com Thu Jan 19 12:00:42 2023 From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2023 19:00:42 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Garage Floor Paint In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I thought about going that route and I ended up putting down 24-inch self-adhesive vinyl floor tiles. It was actually much easier, particularly if you're doing it by yourself. Best, Doug mobile ________________________________ From: Shop-talk on behalf of Eric Russell Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2023 9:49:57 AM To: Jeff Scarbrough Cc: shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage Floor Paint Floor coatings is an oft-discussed topic in the forums at Garage Journal (https://www.garagejournal.com/). Might be worth searching for some of the threads there. But do not blame me for the time you waste spend there... EjR On Thu, Jan 19, 2023 at 12:25 PM Jeff Scarbrough > wrote: Hi all... I've decided to coat my garage floor with something - the bare concrete just sheds too much dust to consider the garage "clean". Every time I sweep, it looks like Pigpen from the Peanuts comics. I can hire a painting contractor to come in and do the job, but it would be a lot easier on me if I could do half at a time (shifting all the boxes and benches from half to half), but I expect that would increase the cost of the contractor. So, are there good DIY solutions to garage floor coatings? I'm not as concerned about the aesthetics of the seam where the coatings overlap - anything is better than what I've got. Associated question: The original builders put some gouges and craters in the floor. Nothing too big, but maybe there's a successful way to fill them before coating? -- Jeff _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ejrussell61 at gmail.com -- Eric Russell Mebane, NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From shannahquilts at gmail.com Thu Jan 19 12:19:23 2023 From: shannahquilts at gmail.com (Shannah Miller) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2023 11:19:23 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Garage Floor Paint In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: This is the system I'm planning to put in my garage studio. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W3ea4S3sRYM The color selection is pretty extensive. https://concretefloorsolutions.com/ The one downside is that the surface needs to be prepared thoroughly. There have been a few cases where acid washing wasn't enough, and the floor didn't stick. Shannah On Thu, Jan 19, 2023 at 9:31 AM Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > Hi all... I've decided to coat my garage floor with something - the > bare concrete just sheds too much dust to consider the garage "clean". > Every time I sweep, it looks like Pigpen from the Peanuts comics. > > I can hire a painting contractor to come in and do the job, but it > would be a lot easier on me if I could do half at a time (shifting all > the boxes and benches from half to half), but I expect that would > increase the cost of the contractor. So, are there good DIY solutions > to garage floor coatings? I'm not as concerned about the aesthetics > of the seam where the coatings overlap - anything is better than what > I've got. > > Associated question: The original builders put some gouges and > craters in the floor. Nothing too big, but maybe there's a successful > way to fill them before coating? > > -- Jeff > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shannahquilts at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmitch at snet.net Thu Jan 19 12:25:47 2023 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2023 14:25:47 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Garage Floor Paint In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8edc1e5e-3c79-c991-44f7-59e991acc30d@snet.net> I mechanically and chemically prepped my floor for epoxy.? After I put down the paint, we had a few days of rain, and the epoxy became streaky and had a milky look to it.? I was ok with it for awhile, but even with good prep, hot tires would peel some of it off and it began to look unsightly. I then put down RaceDeck style plastic tiles.? I've been much happier and all I do is hose it out and mop it a couple times a year.? They are also not as slick as the epoxy paint.? I do put a piece of plywood under my jack and jack stands.? Very east to fix if you do damage a tile.? John in Shelton, CT On 1/19/2023 12:55 PM, Jack Brooks wrote: > I'd suggest epoxy with a light aggregate to avoid slipping, but prep, either mechanical or chemical, is key. > > Jack > > -----Original Message----- > From: Shop-talk On Behalf Of Jeff Scarbrough > Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2023 8:23 AM > To: shop-talk at autox.team.net > Subject: [Shop-talk] Garage Floor Paint > > Hi all... I've decided to coat my garage floor with something - the bare concrete just sheds too much dust to consider the garage "clean". > Every time I sweep, it looks like Pigpen from the Peanuts comics. > > I can hire a painting contractor to come in and do the job, but it would be a lot easier on me if I could do half at a time (shifting all the boxes and benches from half to half), but I expect that would increase the cost of the contractor. So, are there good DIY solutions to garage floor coatings? I'm not as concerned about the aesthetics of the seam where the coatings overlap - anything is better than what I've got. > > Associated question: The original builders put some gouges and craters in the floor. Nothing too big, but maybe there's a successful way to fill them before coating? > > -- Jeff > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibrooks at live.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jmitch at snet.net > From dmscheidt at gmail.com Thu Jan 19 12:40:05 2023 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2023 13:40:05 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Garage Floor Paint In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > On Jan 19, 2023, at 11:33, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > > ?Hi all... I've decided to coat my garage floor with something - the > bare concrete just sheds too much dust to consider the garage "clean". > Every time I sweep, it looks like Pigpen from the Peanuts comic Dusty concrete is usually the sign of poor quality, and results from a bad mix and bad troweling. If I remember the chemistry, there isn?t enough silicate for the portland cement to react with, and form the calcium silicate that makes the concrete hard. There are water based silicate densifiers, which can improve the dusting. Application is cleanly the floor, put the stuff on, let dry. Depending on the product (and temperature, etc), the floor can be returned to use in a few hours to overnight (moat allow foot traffic as soon as it?s dry) they?re not terribly expensive, so I would start there. You can put another coating over most of them, I believe. > From phoenix722 at comcast.net Thu Jan 19 13:01:12 2023 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2023 12:01:12 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Garage Floor Paint In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1cf0408d-8b19-ff11-ee57-4f89bad2b3a3@comcast.net> I used muriatic acid to prepare the floor after a thorough cleaning.? (Easier to do on a brand new floor).? Muriatic acid is bad stuff; be careful.? The paint was called something-Chex, I forget the exact name.? Highly recommended, but I was not impressed, as it seemed to wear off after awhile.? Made cleanups easy, tho.? If you use a little aggregate, fine, but don't overdue it. Mike On 1/19/23 9:55 AM, Jack Brooks wrote: > I'd suggest epoxy with a light aggregate to avoid slipping, but prep, either mechanical or chemical, is key. > > Jack > > -----Original Message----- > From: Shop-talk On Behalf Of Jeff Scarbrough > Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2023 8:23 AM > To:shop-talk at autox.team.net > Subject: [Shop-talk] Garage Floor Paint > > Hi all... I've decided to coat my garage floor with something - the bare concrete just sheds too much dust to consider the garage "clean". > Every time I sweep, it looks like Pigpen from the Peanuts comics. > > I can hire a painting contractor to come in and do the job, but it would be a lot easier on me if I could do half at a time (shifting all the boxes and benches from half to half), but I expect that would increase the cost of the contractor. So, are there good DIY solutions to garage floor coatings? I'm not as concerned about the aesthetics of the seam where the coatings overlap - anything is better than what I've got. > > Associated question: The original builders put some gouges and craters in the floor. Nothing too big, but maybe there's a successful way to fill them before coating? > > -- Jeff > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibrooks at live.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/phoenix722 at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From patintexas at icloud.com Thu Jan 19 13:14:38 2023 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2023 14:14:38 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Garage Floor Paint In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I used an acid-based stain on my shop floor about 5 years ago but never got around to adding the sealing coat to it. About 2 years ago I bought some GhostShield 4500 but haven?t put it down yet. I hope to get to it in the next few months. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jan 19, 2023, at 11:37 AM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: ?Hi all... I've decided to coat my garage floor with something - the bare concrete just sheds too much dust to consider the garage "clean". Every time I sweep, it looks like Pigpen from the Peanuts comics. I can hire a painting contractor to come in and do the job, but it would be a lot easier on me if I could do half at a time (shifting all the boxes and benches from half to half), but I expect that would increase the cost of the contractor. So, are there good DIY solutions to garage floor coatings? I'm not as concerned about the aesthetics of the seam where the coatings overlap - anything is better than what I've got. Associated question: The original builders put some gouges and craters in the floor. Nothing too big, but maybe there's a successful way to fill them before coating? -- Jeff _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com From tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com Thu Jan 19 19:54:42 2023 From: tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com (Tim .) Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2023 02:54:42 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Restoring 100 year old oak dining room chairs Message-ID: Skip to the bottom for the question to avoid my ramble..... Sorry for the long arse chat here but this is a perfect basement shop project now that winter might actually be here in southern WI. We have a dining room set that I bought over 20 years ago; six chairs, table with five leaves and a matching buffet. It is a beautiful set that I bought the boss after finishing her undergrad. Best part is it matches perfectly the now 120 year old craftsman we bought when she finished her masters 15 years ago. Sorry, I digress being proud of the boss. I semi restored (reglued to tighten up) three of the chairs shortly after buying the set. Two totally need to be redone and the third was getting there. When I did these three back then I got them as far apart as needed without pulling apart joints that were still tight, cleaned out old glue, replaced pins (dowels?) as necessary and used big proper clamps to keep them together whilst the glue cured. I used what I thought was a high-quality wood glue on surfaces were clean of old glue and somewhat roughed up to grab the glue better. I even cut groves in the new pins/dowels to have more glue surface. So, now all six need to be done. I will be able to take each one all the way apart, they are all that loose. Question: What glue should I use assuming that I will replace pins/dowels as needed. again, sorry for the yadda yadda blah blah cheers tims -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From patintexas at icloud.com Fri Jan 20 05:09:50 2023 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2023 06:09:50 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Restoring 100 year old oak dining room chairs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <405A6C9D-46CE-4B77-AE0C-F022FF8A1D49@icloud.com> Tom, my initial response was going to be Titebond II or III but decided to see if there was anything newer since it?s been about 15 years since I repaired chairs. Turns out there are a fair number of folks recommending Gorilla Glue but I haven?t tried it for this application. I found an article that seems like a good start for research, https://woodhappen.com/furniture-gluing-how-to/ Please let me know what you use, I?m not far from needing some myself. High five to the Boss! Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jan 19, 2023, at 10:37 PM, Tim . wrote: ? Skip to the bottom for the question to avoid my ramble..... Sorry for the long arse chat here but this is a perfect basement shop project now that winter might actually be here in southern WI. We have a dining room set that I bought over 20 years ago; six chairs, table with five leaves and a matching buffet. It is a beautiful set that I bought the boss after finishing her undergrad. Best part is it matches perfectly the now 120 year old craftsman we bought when she finished her masters 15 years ago. Sorry, I digress being proud of the boss. I semi restored (reglued to tighten up) three of the chairs shortly after buying the set. Two totally need to be redone and the third was getting there. When I did these three back then I got them as far apart as needed without pulling apart joints that were still tight, cleaned out old glue, replaced pins (dowels?) as necessary and used big proper clamps to keep them together whilst the glue cured. I used what I thought was a high-quality wood glue on surfaces were clean of old glue and somewhat roughed up to grab the glue better. I even cut groves in the new pins/dowels to have more glue surface. So, now all six need to be done. I will be able to take each one all the way apart, they are all that loose. Question: What glue should I use assuming that I will replace pins/dowels as needed. again, sorry for the yadda yadda blah blah cheers tims _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jamesf at groupwbench.org Fri Jan 20 05:23:40 2023 From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin) Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2023 07:23:40 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Restoring 100 year old oak dining room chairs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hopefully you get more experienced responses but from my little knowledge of woodworking, you may have opened up the joints too much by that roughing up and groove cutting. The glue won't be strong enough to fill gaps, it only bonds surfaces. So the joints need to be tight to start with. Titebond or Gorilla wood glue will be more than strong enough. jim > On Jan 19, 2023, at 9:54 PM, Tim . wrote: > > Skip to the bottom for the question to avoid my ramble..... > > Sorry for the long arse chat here but this is a perfect basement shop project now that winter might actually be here in southern WI. > > We have a dining room set that I bought over 20 years ago; six chairs, table with five leaves and a matching buffet. It is a beautiful set that I bought the boss after finishing her undergrad. Best part is it matches perfectly the now 120 year old craftsman we bought when she finished her masters 15 years ago. Sorry, I digress being proud of the boss. > > I semi restored (reglued to tighten up) three of the chairs shortly after buying the set. Two totally need to be redone and the third was getting there. > > When I did these three back then I got them as far apart as needed without pulling apart joints that were still tight, cleaned out old glue, replaced pins (dowels?) as necessary and used big proper clamps to keep them together whilst the glue cured. I used what I thought was a high-quality wood glue on surfaces were clean of old glue and somewhat roughed up to grab the glue better. I even cut groves in the new pins/dowels to have more glue surface. > > So, now all six need to be done. I will be able to take each one all the way apart, they are all that loose. > > Question: What glue should I use assuming that I will replace pins/dowels as needed. > > again, sorry for the yadda yadda blah blah > cheers > tims > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dmscheidt at gmail.com Fri Jan 20 08:19:29 2023 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2023 09:19:29 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Restoring 100 year old oak dining room chairs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <239CDEBC-05B4-4958-94C8-B79A0ECA0175@gmail.com> > On Jan 19, 2023, at 22:33, Tim . wrote: > > ? > S > > Question: What glue should I use assuming that I will replace pins/dowels as needed. > > again, sorry for the yadda yadda blah blah > cheers > tims If they?re 100 years old, they were glued with hide glue. Modern wood glues are pva based. Pva glues do not stick to glue. Not hide, nor to pva glue. You need to scrape out as much glue as possible, and then reglue. Use hide glue , either hot, or Franklin?s (titebond) room temperature stuff. If you?re using the room temperature stuff, buy it somewhere that sells a lot of it, it?s got a short shelf life. On gorilla glue: the original gorilla glue is polyurethane. It expands as it cures, that makes it work well for joints with gaps. It?s got no use in non-disposable furniture, joints made with it are impossible to take apart for repair. Hide glue will come apart with heat and maybe moisture. It also sticks to itself, so you don?t get glue failures. That?s why it is still used for instrument building, and for top quality hand built furniture. Gorilla make a pva wood glue, which is supposed to be good. I?ve never used it, the various titebond products work well, I can get the ones I want easily. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eric at megageek.com Fri Jan 20 09:40:52 2023 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2023 11:40:52 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] left the light on? (One more to think about.) In-Reply-To: <63C65DD400BC3D71@cmx-alt-rgout005.mx-altice.prod.cloud.synchronoss.net> (added by postmaster@optonline.net) References: <63C65DD4008C753E@cmx-alt-rgout005.mx-altice.prod.cloud.synchronoss.net> <63C65DD400BC3D71@cmx-alt-rgout005.mx-altice.prod.cloud.synchronoss.net> (added by postmaster@optonline.net) Message-ID: First, I am not a fan of ANY IOT device, solution, etc. So I don't put anything like that anywhere in my home networks. Next, sometimes old school is best. There are X-10 devices that are way out dated (and hence, no one is trying to hack them, not like they can without accessing your AC current on your side of the transformer. If someone can do that, you have bigger problems.) They can also be bought for pennies. Anyway, there are lots of switches and relays and such to control 120 vac. There is also a serial (read- NOT NETWORKABLE) interface. You need an old computer to run it (and it can be a stand alone machine.) You program the interface to activate in anyway you want to or even run marcos. Then the computer can be turned off. What I would do would be you program the main 'X-10' switch that you use when you want to turn on the garage light. The macro would do this... -Turn on light G-1 -Wait 60 minutes -Turn off light G-1 -Wait 30 seconds -Turn on light G-1 -Wait 1 minute -Turn off light G-1 The second 'turn on' would be if you were under a car or something. You know your 1 hour is up when the light goes off, you can get up, the light will come back on, you walk over to the switch and press it. This will start the macro all over again. Note- I'm having serious questions about your 'shop status' if you ONLY need a light on for an hour in your shop. 8>) Just an old school solution with new world security considerations. Moose From: Steven Trovato To: shop-talk Date: 01/19/2023 14:45 Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] left the light on? Sent by: "Shop-talk" Lots of interesting ideas! webcam. This will allow me to look and see if the lights are on, but I don't think it can send me a notification if they are left on. Alexa. This is interesting. If I can tell Alexa to alert me if lights are on for an hour, that would be good. I'm not sure if it can do that. I'll have to look into it. Motion sensor + backup light. This is a different approach that I will consider if I can't get what I'm looking for. Wyze switch. I am not familiar with the switch, but I do have Wyze smart plug modules and smart light bulbs. The Wyze app does not seem to support what I'm looking for. Thermostat hijack. There's really no reason to do that. It still won't give me the notifications I want. If I just want to turn light on or off, I can do that with smart switch, smart plug module or smart switch. You guys are all great at creative problem solving. I was hoping to figure out how to get a notification if the lights are left on. If I can't find a way to do that, I will have to look into some of these things as a plan B. Thank you all! -Steve -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eric at megageek.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From strovato at optonline.net Fri Jan 20 11:22:51 2023 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2023 13:22:51 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] left the light on? (One more to think about.) In-Reply-To: References: <63C65DD4008C753E@cmx-alt-rgout005.mx-altice.prod.cloud.synchronoss.net> <63C65DD400BC3D71@cmx-alt-rgout005.mx-altice.prod.cloud.synchronoss.net> Message-ID: <63C7C99000C812DD@cmx-alt-rgout003.mx-altice.prod.cloud.synchronoss.net> (added by postmaster@optonline.net) Well, there is some risk with IOT, but I don't think the exposure is that great with this situation. What would the hacker do, blink my workshop light? Anyway, I am familiar with X-10. What you are doing is controlling the light like any timer would, with the added 1 minute extra activation. This is still not doing what I asked for, which is to notify me if I forgot to turn the light off. BTW, the 1 hour was really more of an example than an estimate of shop usage. Just like my garage door, I get a warning if the door is open for an hour. Then that repeats on an interval until I close it. That doesn't mean I don't leave it open all day if I am doing something. It just means my phone alerts me periodically that the door is open. It isn't a big deal to ignore it in those cases. Actually, as far as hacking IOT goes, the garage door is a greater risk than controlling my light. A hacker could theoretically open my garage door. I guess one would have to balance the risk of that against the likelihood of accidentally leaving the door open all night. I'm pretty surprised that in this world of home automation, there are lots of ways to control my lights, but there doesn't seem to be a way to get a warning if the light is left on. -Steve At 11:40 AM 1/20/2023, eric at megageek.com wrote: >First, I am not a fan of ANY IOT device, solution, etc. So I don't >put anything like that anywhere in my home networks. > >Next, sometimes old school is best. There are X-10 devices that are >way out dated (and hence, no one is trying to hack them, not like >they can without accessing your AC current on your side of the >transformer. If someone can do that, you have bigger >problems.) They can also be bought for pennies. > >Anyway, there are lots of switches and relays and such to control 120 vac. > >There is also a serial (read- NOT NETWORKABLE) interface. You need >an old computer to run it (and it can be a stand alone machine.) > >You program the interface to activate in anyway you want to or even >run marcos. Then the computer can be turned off. > >What I would do would be you program the main 'X-10' switch that you >use when you want to turn on the garage light. The macro would do this... >-Turn on light G-1 >-Wait 60 minutes >-Turn off light G-1 >-Wait 30 seconds >-Turn on light G-1 >-Wait 1 minute >-Turn off light G-1 > >The second 'turn on' would be if you were under a car or >something. You know your 1 hour is up when the light goes off, you >can get up, the light will come back on, you walk over to the switch >and press it. This will start the macro all over again. > >Note- I'm having serious questions about your 'shop status' if you >ONLY need a light on for an hour in your shop. 8>) > >Just an old school solution with new world security considerations. > >Moose -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ejrussell61 at gmail.com Fri Jan 20 13:55:21 2023 From: ejrussell61 at gmail.com (Eric Russell) Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2023 15:55:21 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] left the light on? (One more to think about.) In-Reply-To: <63caf044.050a0220.816d7.e792SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com> References: <63C65DD4008C753E@cmx-alt-rgout005.mx-altice.prod.cloud.synchronoss.net> <63C65DD400BC3D71@cmx-alt-rgout005.mx-altice.prod.cloud.synchronoss.net> <63caf044.050a0220.816d7.e792SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com> Message-ID: Are you needing to know if you left the lights on while you're home (vs away from home)? If the fact the lights are on in the garage is not easily visible from the house could you add an outside light - visible from the house - tied in to the interior lights? If you need to know if you left the lights on while you are away from home then of course this won't help... EjR On Fri, Jan 20, 2023 at 2:49 PM Steven Trovato wrote: > Well, there is some risk with IOT, but I don't think the exposure is that > great with this situation. What would the hacker do, blink my workshop > light? Anyway, I am familiar with X-10. What you are doing is controlling > the light like any timer would, with the added 1 minute extra activation. > This is still not doing what I asked for, which is to notify me if I forgot > to turn the light off. BTW, the 1 hour was really more of an example than > an estimate of shop usage. Just like my garage door, I get a warning if > the door is open for an hour. Then that repeats on an interval until I > close it. That doesn't mean I don't leave it open all day if I am doing > something. It just means my phone alerts me periodically that the door is > open. It isn't a big deal to ignore it in those cases. Actually, as far > as hacking IOT goes, the garage door is a greater risk than controlling my > light. A hacker could theoretically open my garage door. I guess one > would have to balance the risk of that against the likelihood of > accidentally leaving the door open all night. I'm pretty surprised that in > this world of home automation, there are lots of ways to control my lights, > but there doesn't seem to be a way to get a warning if the light is left > on. > > -Steve > > At 11:40 AM 1/20/2023, eric at megageek.com wrote: > > First, I am not a fan of ANY IOT device, solution, etc. So I don't put > anything like that anywhere in my home networks. > > Next, sometimes old school is best. There are X-10 devices that are way > out dated (and hence, no one is trying to hack them, not like they can > without accessing your AC current on your side of the transformer. If > someone can do that, you have bigger problems.) They can also be bought > for pennies. > > Anyway, there are lots of switches and relays and such to control 120 vac. > > There is also a serial (read- NOT NETWORKABLE) interface. You need an old > computer to run it (and it can be a stand alone machine.) > > You program the interface to activate in anyway you want to or even run > marcos. Then the computer can be turned off. > > What I would do would be you program the main 'X-10' switch that you use > when you want to turn on the garage light. The macro would do this... > -Turn on light G-1 > -Wait 60 minutes > -Turn off light G-1 > -Wait 30 seconds > -Turn on light G-1 > -Wait 1 minute > -Turn off light G-1 > > The second 'turn on' would be if you were under a car or something. You > know your 1 hour is up when the light goes off, you can get up, the light > will come back on, you walk over to the switch and press it. This will > start the macro all over again. > > Note- I'm having serious questions about your 'shop status' if you ONLY > need a light on for an hour in your shop. 8>) > > Just an old school solution with new world security considerations. > > Moose > > > > > Virus-free.www.avast.com > > <#m_4555033260368118229_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ejrussell61 at gmail.com > > -- Eric Russell Mebane, NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dhlocker at protonmail.com Fri Jan 20 15:21:55 2023 From: dhlocker at protonmail.com (Donald H Locker) Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2023 22:21:55 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] left the light on? (One more to think about.) Message-ID: Have you considered putting a current transformer on the power feed to the shop/garage? Something like https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11005 connected to LEDs? (This could work that there are not too many other loads on the line. This particular current transformer has a 2000:1 ratio, so several turns of the feed would be needed to sense a lamps-on condition. (e.g. 10A of lamps would require 3 turns feed wire to create 15mA of LED indicator current.) HTH, Donald. On 1/20/23 13:22, Steven Trovato wrote: > Well, there is some risk with IOT, but I don't think the exposure is > that great with this situation.? What would the hacker do, blink my > workshop light?? Anyway, I am familiar with X-10.? What you are doing is > controlling the light like any timer would, with the added 1 minute > extra activation.? This is still not doing what I asked for, which is to > notify me if I forgot to turn the light off.? BTW, the 1 hour was really > more of an example than an estimate of shop usage. Just like my garage > door, I get a warning if the door is open for an hour.? Then that > repeats on an interval until I close it.? That doesn't mean I don't > leave it open all day if I am doing something. It just means my phone > alerts me periodically that the door is open.? It isn't a big deal to > ignore it in those cases. Actually, as far as hacking IOT goes, the > garage door is a greater risk than controlling my light.? A hacker could > theoretically open my garage door.? I guess one would have to balance > the risk of that against the likelihood of accidentally leaving the door > open all night.? I'm pretty surprised that in this world of home > automation, there are lots of ways to control my lights, but there > doesn't seem to be a way to get a warning if the light is left on. > > -Steve > > At 11:40 AM 1/20/2023, eric at megageek.com wrote: >> First, I am not a fan of ANY IOT device, solution, etc.? So I don't >> put anything like that anywhere in my home networks. >> >> Next, sometimes old school is best.? There are X-10 devices that are >> way out dated (and hence, no one is trying to hack them, not like they >> can without accessing your AC current on your side of the >> transformer.? If someone can do that, you have bigger problems.)? They >> can also be bought for pennies. >> >> Anyway, there are lots of switches and relays and such to control 120 >> vac. >> >> There is also a serial (read- NOT NETWORKABLE) interface.? You need an >> old computer to run it (and it can be a stand alone machine.) >> >> You program the interface to activate in anyway you want to or even >> run marcos.? Then the computer can be turned off. >> >> What I would do would be you program the main 'X-10' switch that you >> use when you want to turn on the garage light.? The macro would do >> this... >> -Turn on light G-1 >> -Wait 60 minutes >> -Turn off light G-1 >> -Wait 30 seconds >> -Turn on light G-1 >> -Wait 1 minute >> -Turn off light G-1 >> >> The second 'turn on' would be if you were under a car or something. >> You know your 1 hour is up when the light goes off, you can get up, >> the light will come back on, you walk over to the switch and press >> it.? This will start the macro all over again. >> >> Note- I'm having serious questions about your 'shop status' if you >> ONLY need a light on for an hour in your shop.? 8>) >> >> Just an old school solution with new world security considerations. >> >> Moose > > Virus-free.www.avast.com > > <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> From jniolon at att.net Thu Jan 26 07:01:41 2023 From: jniolon at att.net (john) Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2023 08:01:41 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] spots on my tv References: <1UeYiHsfmu.APkAvA89g4z.ref@johns-desktop> Message-ID: <1UeYiHsfmu.APkAvA89g4z@johns-desktop> shop content...I watch shop and tool videos on this tv. 75" Samsung Led flat screen first developed a round white spot on the screen...three months later it's up to 3 spots now. I look at videos on YouTube about fixing it and they look like a frame off build of a street rod... any suggestions on a fix or cost of a fix...?? Videos tell me the lens hicky-things are falling off the LEDs and can be repositioned.. but much disassembly is required thanks john -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eric at megageek.com Tue Jan 31 06:35:20 2023 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2023 08:35:20 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] wiper intermittent either too fast or too slow jeep tj Message-ID: I know this isn't a British car, but at least it's shop related. 8>) I have a 2003 Jeep TJ. Wipers work 100% EXCEPT that the intermittent feature seems a little weird. It works as it is supposed to, however there is a gap with the speed. There are about 5 clicks in the intermittent adjustment. 1 is really slow 2 is slightly faster, but not much. 3 is basically constant wiping 4 & 5 are just faster constant modes Overall 2 is WAY too slow and 3 is too fast. I need something in between. Seems that most searching on this for make/model is them not working at all and not the problem I'm having. Anyone have an ideas what to check? TIA Moose -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com Tue Jan 31 06:56:39 2023 From: pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com (PJ McGarvey) Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2023 13:56:39 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] wiper intermittent either too fast or too slow jeep tj In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I have a 2003 TJ as well. I can say that the whole turn signal/wiper/headlight assembly on the steering column is a problem with these cars I believe. The previous owner replaced it once, and I have as well. Something to consider. PJ ________________________________ From: Shop-talk on behalf of eric at megageek.com Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2023 8:35 AM To: Shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: [Shop-talk] wiper intermittent either too fast or too slow jeep tj I know this isn't a British car, but at least it's shop related. 8>) I have a 2003 Jeep TJ. Wipers work 100% EXCEPT that the intermittent feature seems a little weird. It works as it is supposed to, however there is a gap with the speed. There are about 5 clicks in the intermittent adjustment. 1 is really slow 2 is slightly faster, but not much. 3 is basically constant wiping 4 & 5 are just faster constant modes Overall 2 is WAY too slow and 3 is too fast. I need something in between. Seems that most searching on this for make/model is them not working at all and not the problem I'm having. Anyone have an ideas what to check? TIA Moose -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From patintexas at icloud.com Tue Jan 31 07:55:59 2023 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2023 08:55:59 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] wiper intermittent either too fast or too slow jeep tj In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <15F7397C-2FD5-435B-954C-FE9631A9B066@icloud.com> P J, does your wiper switch behave the same as Moose?s? If it does, his isn?t misbehaving. As an electronics guy if I had access to the vehicle I?d do some testing & try some modifications to make it work more as desired. I?ll see if I can find a wiring diagram for that & see if anything can be done. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jan 31, 2023, at 8:13 AM, PJ McGarvey wrote: ? I have a 2003 TJ as well. I can say that the whole turn signal/wiper/headlight assembly on the steering column is a problem with these cars I believe. The previous owner replaced it once, and I have as well. Something to consider. PJ From: Shop-talk on behalf of eric at megageek.com Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2023 8:35 AM To: Shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: [Shop-talk] wiper intermittent either too fast or too slow jeep tj I know this isn't a British car, but at least it's shop related. 8>) I have a 2003 Jeep TJ. Wipers work 100% EXCEPT that the intermittent feature seems a little weird. It works as it is supposed to, however there is a gap with the speed. There are about 5 clicks in the intermittent adjustment. 1 is really slow 2 is slightly faster, but not much. 3 is basically constant wiping 4 & 5 are just faster constant modes Overall 2 is WAY too slow and 3 is too fast. I need something in between. Seems that most searching on this for make/model is them not working at all and not the problem I'm having. Anyone have an ideas what to check? TIA Moose _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From patintexas at icloud.com Tue Jan 31 08:16:05 2023 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2023 09:16:05 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] wiper intermittent either too fast or too slow jeep tj Message-ID: <062A9365-77A3-45CF-AF6E-588C73661F81@icloud.com> ?Eric, All the wiring diagrams I see don?t list a year or don?t seem to match what you have, they seem to show a variable control for infinite delay settings. If you can point me to a diagram that matches your car I?d be happy to give you a reading as to whether anything can be done & how to troubleshoot it. If P J will let us know if his behaves the same it will be a great help. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jan 31, 2023, at 7:52 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote: ?I know this isn't a British car, but at least it's shop related. 8>) I have a 2003 Jeep TJ. Wipers work 100% EXCEPT that the intermittent feature seems a little weird. It works as it is supposed to, however there is a gap with the speed. There are about 5 clicks in the intermittent adjustment. 1 is really slow 2 is slightly faster, but not much. 3 is basically constant wiping 4 & 5 are just faster constant modes Overall 2 is WAY too slow and 3 is too fast. I need something in between. Seems that most searching on this for make/model is them not working at all and not the problem I'm having. Anyone have an ideas what to check? TIA Moose_______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com Tue Jan 31 08:40:32 2023 From: pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com (PJ McGarvey) Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2023 15:40:32 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] wiper intermittent either too fast or too slow jeep tj In-Reply-To: <062A9365-77A3-45CF-AF6E-588C73661F81@icloud.com> References: <062A9365-77A3-45CF-AF6E-588C73661F81@icloud.com> Message-ID: Eric and I talked off list, I was more generally saying that these column switches are finicky. I had a headlight switch problem which is the left side stalk, Eric's is the wiper stalk on the right side, so a different switch. ________________________________ From: Shop-talk on behalf of Pat Horne Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2023 10:16 AM To: eric at megageek.com Cc: Shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] wiper intermittent either too fast or too slow jeep tj ?Eric, All the wiring diagrams I see don?t list a year or don?t seem to match what you have, they seem to show a variable control for infinite delay settings. If you can point me to a diagram that matches your car I?d be happy to give you a reading as to whether anything can be done & how to troubleshoot it. If P J will let us know if his behaves the same it will be a great help. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jan 31, 2023, at 7:52 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote: ?I know this isn't a British car, but at least it's shop related. 8>) I have a 2003 Jeep TJ. Wipers work 100% EXCEPT that the intermittent feature seems a little weird. It works as it is supposed to, however there is a gap with the speed. There are about 5 clicks in the intermittent adjustment. 1 is really slow 2 is slightly faster, but not much. 3 is basically constant wiping 4 & 5 are just faster constant modes Overall 2 is WAY too slow and 3 is too fast. I need something in between. Seems that most searching on this for make/model is them not working at all and not the problem I'm having. Anyone have an ideas what to check? TIA Moose_______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eric at megageek.com Tue Jan 31 08:57:19 2023 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2023 10:57:19 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] wiper intermittent either too fast or too slow jeep tj In-Reply-To: <062A9365-77A3-45CF-AF6E-588C73661F81@icloud.com> References: <062A9365-77A3-45CF-AF6E-588C73661F81@icloud.com> Message-ID: I believe this is it (a little down in the post list.) https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/front-wiper-issue.2969/ If that isn't it, it should be pretty close. Thanks! Moose From: Pat Horne To: eric at megageek.com Cc: Shop-talk at autox.team.net Date: 01/31/2023 10:16 AM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] wiper intermittent either too fast or too slow jeep tj Eric, All the wiring diagrams I see don?t list a year or don?t seem to match what you have, they seem to show a variable control for infinite delay settings. If you can point me to a diagram that matches your car I?d be happy to give you a reading as to whether anything can be done & how to troubleshoot it. If P J will let us know if his behaves the same it will be a great help. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jan 31, 2023, at 7:52 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote: ?I know this isn't a British car, but at least it's shop related. 8>) I have a 2003 Jeep TJ. Wipers work 100% EXCEPT that the intermittent feature seems a little weird. It works as it is supposed to, however there is a gap with the speed. There are about 5 clicks in the intermittent adjustment. 1 is really slow 2 is slightly faster, but not much. 3 is basically constant wiping 4 & 5 are just faster constant modes Overall 2 is WAY too slow and 3 is too fast. I need something in between. Seems that most searching on this for make/model is them not working at all and not the problem I'm having. Anyone have an ideas what to check? TIA Moose_______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From patintexas at icloud.com Tue Jan 31 09:21:06 2023 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2023 10:21:06 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] wiper intermittent either too fast or too slow jeep tj In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7971A893-2290-481C-8A3F-81317C416777@icloud.com> Thanks. I found that drawing. From the looks of it your problem is not the switch, but the control module but that is not a guarantee. Moose, did your wiper speeds ever work differently than they do now? If they did, then the module could be bad. The schematic shows a variable resistor in the upper left. Do you have a variable wiper control? Should we take this off line or are others interested? Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jan 31, 2023, at 9:57 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote: ?I believe this is it (a little down in the post list.) https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/front-wiper-issue.2969/ If that isn't it, it should be pretty close. Thanks! Moose From: Pat Horne To: eric at megageek.com Cc: Shop-talk at autox.team.net Date: 01/31/2023 10:16 AM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] wiper intermittent either too fast or too slow jeep tj Eric, All the wiring diagrams I see don?t list a year or don?t seem to match what you have, they seem to show a variable control for infinite delay settings. If you can point me to a diagram that matches your car I?d be happy to give you a reading as to whether anything can be done & how to troubleshoot it. If P J will let us know if his behaves the same it will be a great help. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jan 31, 2023, at 7:52 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote: ?I know this isn't a British car, but at least it's shop related. 8>) I have a 2003 Jeep TJ. Wipers work 100% EXCEPT that the intermittent feature seems a little weird. It works as it is supposed to, however there is a gap with the speed. There are about 5 clicks in the intermittent adjustment. 1 is really slow 2 is slightly faster, but not much. 3 is basically constant wiping 4 & 5 are just faster constant modes Overall 2 is WAY too slow and 3 is too fast. I need something in between. Seems that most searching on this for make/model is them not working at all and not the problem I'm having. Anyone have an ideas what to check? TIA Moose_______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: