From jniolon at att.net  Fri Oct  1 15:18:12 2021
From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon)
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2021 16:18:12 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Quincy 310 compressor guru needed
References: <1UZ80aCNy3.B1qr8IRkGEa.ref@johns-desktop>
Message-ID: <1UZ80aCNy3.B1qr8IRkGEa@johns-desktop>

I've got an old Quincy 310 compressor that is giving me trouble. As it builds pressure the unloader valve released and it won't
build over 20# of air... If I remove the copper tube from the pilot valve to 
the unloader it will build up as it should but I have an 
air leaking out not from the copper tube


so it cycles a lot... pictures can be sent and I'd love to figure this out soon

thanks
john
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From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Oct  6 10:00:00 2021
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 10:00:00 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Drilling a hole in glass?
Message-ID: <3fd6c7aa-7b7b-f08b-76b9-c4f795c09910@bradakis.com>

Anyone have any experience in drilling holes in glass?

mjb.



From patintexas at icloud.com  Wed Oct  6 10:08:31 2021
From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 11:08:31 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Drilling a hole in glass?
In-Reply-To: <3fd6c7aa-7b7b-f08b-76b9-c4f795c09910@bradakis.com>
References: <3fd6c7aa-7b7b-f08b-76b9-c4f795c09910@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <FBD90A85-D803-4355-83D2-A7EC08B43A0B@icloud.com>

There are special drill bits for glass. What size hole? You can?t drill tempered glass, it will shatter. 

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne 
We support Habitat for Humanity


On Oct 6, 2021, at 11:06 AM, Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:

?Anyone have any experience in drilling holes in glass?

mjb.


_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
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From darrellw360 at mac.com  Wed Oct  6 10:15:52 2021
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 09:15:52 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Drilling a hole in glass?
In-Reply-To: <3fd6c7aa-7b7b-f08b-76b9-c4f795c09910@bradakis.com>
References: <3fd6c7aa-7b7b-f08b-76b9-c4f795c09910@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <6466E751-C531-4F32-AB7C-DA929F1D1917@mac.com>


I?ve drilled holes in aquarium glass, using diamond hole saws.  What are you looking to drill?

You can?t drill tempered glass, just in case that is what you are looking to drill.

-Darrell

> On Oct 6, 2021, at 9:00 AM, Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:
> 
> Anyone have any experience in drilling holes in glass?
> 
> mjb.
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/darrellw360 at mac.com
> 


From eric at megageek.com  Wed Oct  6 10:51:10 2021
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 12:51:10 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Drilling a hole in glass?
In-Reply-To: <3fd6c7aa-7b7b-f08b-76b9-c4f795c09910@bradakis.com>
References: <3fd6c7aa-7b7b-f08b-76b9-c4f795c09910@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <OF2B2A346E.8609B5B7-ON85258766.005C7AE1-85258766.005C9285@mail.megageek.com>

Yes, there are special bits (cheap on Amazon) and you normally use them 
slow speed under a water stream (or have it submerged in water.)

Very easy to do.





From:   Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
To:     "Shop-talk at autox.team.net" <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Date:   10/06/2021 12:05 PM
Subject:        [Shop-talk] Drilling a hole in glass?
Sent by:        "Shop-talk" <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net>



Anyone have any experience in drilling holes in glass?

mjb.


_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk 
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Oct  6 11:00:33 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 10:00:33 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Drilling a hole in glass?
In-Reply-To: <3fd6c7aa-7b7b-f08b-76b9-c4f795c09910@bradakis.com>
References: <3fd6c7aa-7b7b-f08b-76b9-c4f795c09910@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <de4f3481-9468-a86f-2f81-f61fd59bca27@comcast.net>

Yes. All bad.

One thing that helps: put tape over the hold to be installed. There may 
be some special bits for glass, but they're not common.

Bob

ps. Anyone else see the Fantomworks episode where they tried to drill an 
old MG/TR3's--I think--windshield? The windshield exploded; turns out it 
wasn't safety/laminated glass.


On 10/6/2021 9:00 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> Anyone have any experience in drilling holes in glass?
>
> mjb.
>
>


From shannahquilts at gmail.com  Wed Oct  6 11:04:20 2021
From: shannahquilts at gmail.com (Shannah Miller)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 10:04:20 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Drilling a hole in glass?
In-Reply-To: <3fd6c7aa-7b7b-f08b-76b9-c4f795c09910@bradakis.com>
References: <3fd6c7aa-7b7b-f08b-76b9-c4f795c09910@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <CAAy7z=0PwYosv0gT5m7ZVNP0cQ1UgLwbfqkOwyqxTyXVh_x+VA@mail.gmail.com>

Yes, I used to work in stained glass.  Diamond bits are what we used.

A bit that has diamond on the end, in addition to the sides, is easiest.
We used water to flush away debris and keep the bit from overheating.

The bit tends to skip at first, so surrounding the spot you're drilling
with tape (we used masking tape) should help keep it in place long enough
to get the hole started.  Light to moderate pressure and letting the bit do
the work should give a neat hole without chipping.

I practiced on a glass bottle before going on to customer work.

Shannah

On Wed, Oct 6, 2021, 9:06 AM Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:

> Anyone have any experience in drilling holes in glass?
>
> mjb.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shannahquilts at gmail.com
>
>
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From neiljsherry at talktalk.net  Wed Oct  6 11:11:15 2021
From: neiljsherry at talktalk.net (Neil Sherry)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 18:11:15 +0100
Subject: [Shop-talk] Drilling a hole in glass?
In-Reply-To: <de4f3481-9468-a86f-2f81-f61fd59bca27@comcast.net>
References: <3fd6c7aa-7b7b-f08b-76b9-c4f795c09910@bradakis.com>
 <de4f3481-9468-a86f-2f81-f61fd59bca27@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <013d01d7bad5$2c140970$843c1c50$@talktalk.net>

I haven't drilled glass, but have done ceramics (bone chine crockery!) using
diamond hole saws - around 5mm diameter. They are pretty cheap on
Amazon/eBay (like ?5 for 5). I am sure I have seen glass bits - resembling
very fine masonry drills (so V-shaped tip).
I think toughened glass would be likely to 'explode' - I have heard that it
has to be drilled before the toughening process (I had a new piece of glass
for a shower door made - that's what had to be done).
Plain glass or laminated would be more likely to be successful.
Neil

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Spidell
Sent: 06 October 2021 18:01
To: shop-talk at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Drilling a hole in glass?

Yes. All bad.

One thing that helps: put tape over the hold to be installed. There may be
some special bits for glass, but they're not common.

Bob

ps. Anyone else see the Fantomworks episode where they tried to drill an old
MG/TR3's--I think--windshield? The windshield exploded; turns out it wasn't
safety/laminated glass.


On 10/6/2021 9:00 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> Anyone have any experience in drilling holes in glass?
>
> mjb.
>
>

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/neiljsherry at talktalk.net



From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Oct  6 11:13:26 2021
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 11:13:26 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Drilling a hole in glass?
In-Reply-To: <3fd6c7aa-7b7b-f08b-76b9-c4f795c09910@bradakis.com>
References: <3fd6c7aa-7b7b-f08b-76b9-c4f795c09910@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <3dcb712a-9def-825e-bedd-7cf810688a7d@bradakis.com>

I bought this light fixture for the bathroom.? The mounting posts for 
the shade are 10 inches apart.? The holes in the shade are 11 inches 
apart.? Not good.? I bet you can guess the country of origin.

mjb.


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From parkanzky at gmail.com  Wed Oct  6 11:48:13 2021
From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 13:48:13 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Drilling a hole in glass?
In-Reply-To: <3dcb712a-9def-825e-bedd-7cf810688a7d@bradakis.com>
References: <3fd6c7aa-7b7b-f08b-76b9-c4f795c09910@bradakis.com>
 <3dcb712a-9def-825e-bedd-7cf810688a7d@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <CAOEriikhp6i_-XeWbrWUgakO2sA67AfXkQmrzTtTAwEfarm47Q@mail.gmail.com>

Can you move a mounting post instead of drilling a new hole in the glass?
That would be less sphincter-puckering work and you won't end up with an
extra hole in the shade.

-Paul

On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 1:36 PM Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:

> I bought this light fixture for the bathroom.  The mounting posts for
> the shade are 10 inches apart.  The holes in the shade are 11 inches
> apart.  Not good.  I bet you can guess the country of origin.
>
> mjb.
>
>
>
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From watsonm05 at comcast.net  Wed Oct  6 12:52:43 2021
From: watsonm05 at comcast.net (Mark Watson)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 20:52:43 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Drilling a hole in glass?
In-Reply-To: <CAOEriikhp6i_-XeWbrWUgakO2sA67AfXkQmrzTtTAwEfarm47Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <3fd6c7aa-7b7b-f08b-76b9-c4f795c09910@bradakis.com>
 <3dcb712a-9def-825e-bedd-7cf810688a7d@bradakis.com>
 <CAOEriikhp6i_-XeWbrWUgakO2sA67AfXkQmrzTtTAwEfarm47Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1262593709.33326.1633546363346@connect.xfinity.com>

Not sure if they work for glass but I bought some bits for ceramic tile at the BORG.  One type had a system to hold a water holder against the surface to provide the cooling/lubrication.  However, I haven't tried any of the bits I have at all.

>     On 10/06/2021 7:48 PM Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> 
>     Can you move a mounting post instead of drilling a new hole in the glass? That would be less sphincter-puckering work and you won't end up with an extra hole in the shade.
> 
>     -Paul
> 
>     On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 1:36 PM Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com mailto:mark at bradakis.com > wrote:
> 
>         > > I bought this light fixture for the bathroom.  The mounting posts for
> >         the shade are 10 inches apart.  The holes in the shade are 11 inches
> >         apart.  Not good.  I bet you can guess the country of origin.
> > 
> >         mjb.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >     >     _______________________________________________
> 
>     Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation $12.96
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/watsonm05 at comcast.net
> 
> 
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From pj_thomas at comcast.net  Wed Oct  6 13:22:01 2021
From: pj_thomas at comcast.net (Peter J. Thomas)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 15:22:01 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Drilling a hole in glass?
In-Reply-To: <3fd6c7aa-7b7b-f08b-76b9-c4f795c09910@bradakis.com>
References: <3fd6c7aa-7b7b-f08b-76b9-c4f795c09910@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <ea4ccb46-0331-71dc-565a-11090e0730db@comcast.net>

Trepanning is the best, safest way.

On 10/6/2021 12:00 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> Anyone have any experience in drilling holes in glass?
>
> mjb.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_thomas at comcast.net
>


From jblair1948 at cox.net  Wed Oct  6 13:33:48 2021
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2021 15:33:48 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Drilling a hole in glass?
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20211006153322.04b529c0@cox.net>

At 01:13 PM 10/6/2021, you wrote:

 >I bought this light fixture for the bathroom. The mounting posts 
for the shade
 > are 10 inches apart. The holes in the shade are 11 inches apart. 
Not good. I
 >bet you can guess the country of origin.

Mark,

Then I wouldn't waste my time.  Take it back and try another one, 
unless you got
it on line and are stuck with it.

John


John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/morgan
Bricklin:     www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
      In God We Trust
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From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Wed Oct  6 13:43:22 2021
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 14:43:22 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Drilling a hole in glass?
In-Reply-To: <3dcb712a-9def-825e-bedd-7cf810688a7d@bradakis.com>
References: <3dcb712a-9def-825e-bedd-7cf810688a7d@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <11270245-FA33-43D0-B78D-14FC96C3D3FD@gmail.com>



> On Oct 6, 2021, at 12:36, Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:
> 
> ?I bought this light fixture for the bathroom.  The mounting posts for the shade are 10 inches apart.  The holes in the shade are 11 inches apart.  Not good.  I bet you can guess the country of origin.
> 

I?m with John: send it back. It?s defective.  


> mjb.
> 
> 
> <20211006_110736.jpg>
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dmscheidt at gmail.com
> 

From bk13 at earthlink.net  Wed Oct  6 22:04:01 2021
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 21:04:01 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Drilling a hole in glass?
In-Reply-To: <3fd6c7aa-7b7b-f08b-76b9-c4f795c09910@bradakis.com>
References: <3fd6c7aa-7b7b-f08b-76b9-c4f795c09910@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <63cabf0e-587e-3a48-2c46-6a5e52699d3d@earthlink.net>

I used a set similar to this.? Might be the same, but it was a few years 
ago.

https://www.harborfreight.com/diamond-rotary-bit-set-4-pc-69664.html

They have some bigger bits too.

https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=diamond%20drill%20bit

The key thing is to keep the bit wet.

Given the later response, I'd return the defective light instead of 
trying to make a new hole in the shade.

Brian


On 10/6/2021 9:00 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> Anyone have any experience in drilling holes in glass?
>
> mjb.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net
>


From peterwmurray at gmail.com  Wed Oct  6 22:19:51 2021
From: peterwmurray at gmail.com (Peter Murray)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 22:19:51 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Drilling a hole in glass?
In-Reply-To: <63cabf0e-587e-3a48-2c46-6a5e52699d3d@earthlink.net>
References: <3fd6c7aa-7b7b-f08b-76b9-c4f795c09910@bradakis.com>
 <63cabf0e-587e-3a48-2c46-6a5e52699d3d@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <CAJ8HLP-kQ7ZenBsivaLpyjyhzAhTWPr7ey1nCnPSEWj2J77YQQ@mail.gmail.com>

Am I really hearing suggestions that Mark return the light fixture rather
than fix it with tools in the shop? Don't you blaspheme in here!

Back in my day, we'd just heat up the furnace and make a new glass shade
for our fixture by hand! Maybe Shannah can make that her donation to
team.net!

-Peter

On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 10:07 PM Brian Kemp <bk13 at earthlink.net> wrote:

> I used a set similar to this.  Might be the same, but it was a few years
> ago.
>
> https://www.harborfreight.com/diamond-rotary-bit-set-4-pc-69664.html
>
> They have some bigger bits too.
>
> https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=diamond%20drill%20bit
>
> The key thing is to keep the bit wet.
>
> Given the later response, I'd return the defective light instead of
> trying to make a new hole in the shade.
>
> Brian
>
>
> On 10/6/2021 9:00 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> > Anyone have any experience in drilling holes in glass?
> >
> > mjb.
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> > http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray at gmail.com
>
>
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From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Oct  9 08:48:09 2021
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 9 Oct 2021 08:48:09 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Drilling a hole in glass?
In-Reply-To: <3fd6c7aa-7b7b-f08b-76b9-c4f795c09910@bradakis.com>
References: <3fd6c7aa-7b7b-f08b-76b9-c4f795c09910@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <1c78b890-e3f6-17c2-0c92-25f2f6e5725f@bradakis.com>

Amazing how a problem can be solved simply by reading the instructions, 
and assembling something with all the parts in the proper orientation.

So a wasted opportunity to buy new tools.

mjb.


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From tjcora at icloud.com  Sat Oct  9 09:27:31 2021
From: tjcora at icloud.com (Thomas Coradeschi)
Date: Sat, 9 Oct 2021 11:27:31 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Drilling a hole in glass?
In-Reply-To: <1c78b890-e3f6-17c2-0c92-25f2f6e5725f@bradakis.com>
References: <3fd6c7aa-7b7b-f08b-76b9-c4f795c09910@bradakis.com>
 <1c78b890-e3f6-17c2-0c92-25f2f6e5725f@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <1E816D65-BD1A-49E5-ADC3-FA42639C4532@icloud.com>

Doncha hate when that happens?

Hopefully, you got some tools out of the deal, first:-)

?
Tom Coradeschi
tjcora at icloud.com


> On 09 Oct 2021, at 10:48 AM, Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:
> 
> Amazing how a problem can be solved simply by reading the instructions, and assembling something with all the parts in the proper orientation.
> 
> So a wasted opportunity to buy new tools.
> 
> mjb.
> 
> 
> <20211009_083834.jpg>_______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tjcora at icloud.com
> 


From dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Oct  9 09:32:29 2021
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Sat, 9 Oct 2021 15:32:29 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Drilling a hole in glass?
In-Reply-To: <1c78b890-e3f6-17c2-0c92-25f2f6e5725f@bradakis.com>
References: <3fd6c7aa-7b7b-f08b-76b9-c4f795c09910@bradakis.com>
 <1c78b890-e3f6-17c2-0c92-25f2f6e5725f@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <1319528552.552934.1633793549313@mail.yahoo.com>

 Reading the instructions or translating them?
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
To: shop-talk at autox.team.net
Sent: Sat, Oct 9, 2021 9:48 am
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Drilling a hole in glass?

Amazing how a problem can be solved simply by reading the instructions, 
and assembling something with all the parts in the proper orientation.

So a wasted opportunity to buy new tools.

mjb.


_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.96
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From patintexas at icloud.com  Sat Oct  9 11:16:56 2021
From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Sat, 9 Oct 2021 12:16:56 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Drilling a hole in glass?
In-Reply-To: <1c78b890-e3f6-17c2-0c92-25f2f6e5725f@bradakis.com>
References: <1c78b890-e3f6-17c2-0c92-25f2f6e5725f@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <07836FB1-00F1-4CEF-A386-4759F889869D@icloud.com>

I HATE it when that happens! 

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne 
We support Habitat for Humanity


On Oct 9, 2021, at 9:56 AM, Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:

?Amazing how a problem can be solved simply by reading the instructions, and assembling something with all the parts in the proper orientation.

So a wasted opportunity to buy new tools.

mjb.


<20211009_083834.jpg>
_______________________________________________

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Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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From jniolon at att.net  Mon Oct 11 13:44:16 2021
From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon)
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2021 14:44:16 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] cutting top out of barrel
References: <1UZ8BTmNGG.1fjzVXWCGIY.ref@johns-desktop>
Message-ID: <1UZ8BTmNGG.1fjzVXWCGIY@johns-desktop>

got a 55 gallon barrel that held hyd fluid... need to cut the top out...don't want to use fire (torch) and last choice is hammer and chiselk

any other suggestions ???

john
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From stearman809 at gmail.com  Mon Oct 11 13:52:43 2021
From: stearman809 at gmail.com (Karl Vacek)
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2021 14:52:43 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] cutting top out of barrel
In-Reply-To: <1UZ8BTmNGG.1fjzVXWCGIY@johns-desktop>
References: <1UZ8BTmNGG.1fjzVXWCGIY.ref@johns-desktop>
 <1UZ8BTmNGG.1fjzVXWCGIY@johns-desktop>
Message-ID: <17c70ea1af8.28bf.cd27845553c78383775132770b7455be@gmail.com>

If you can find someone with a drum de-header, they work fine.  Like a huge 
Boy Scout can opener.

Failing that, I'd use a saber saw with a fine tooth blade.  Should leave a 
good finish.  If you're worried about ignition, fill the drum with soapy 
water.  When you're done, the remaining fluid will be emulsified and wash 
right out

On October 11, 2021 2:44:39 PM "john niolon" <jniolon at att.net> wrote:
> got a 55 gallon barrel that held hyd fluid... need to cut the top 
> out...don't want to use fire (torch) and last choice is hammer and chiselk
>
> any other suggestions ???
>
> john
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/stearman809 at gmail.com

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From jamesf at groupwbench.org  Mon Oct 11 13:54:32 2021
From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin)
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2021 20:54:32 +0100
Subject: [Shop-talk] cutting top out of barrel
In-Reply-To: <1UZ8BTmNGG.1fjzVXWCGIY@johns-desktop>
References: <1UZ8BTmNGG.1fjzVXWCGIY.ref@johns-desktop>
 <1UZ8BTmNGG.1fjzVXWCGIY@johns-desktop>
Message-ID: <E4CD7B11-92AC-4FFE-89CA-709254C85A62@groupwbench.org>

Giant can opener :-)

Jigsaw with a metal blade? Sawzall would also work but the blades are deeper and might not turn as easily/cleanly. 

Does roto-zip make a metal blade? 

jim

> On Oct 11, 2021, at 8:44 PM, john niolon <jniolon at att.net> wrote:
> 
> got a 55 gallon barrel that held hyd fluid... need to cut the top out...don't want to use fire (torch) and last choice is hammer and chiselk
>  
> any other suggestions ???
>  
> john
>  
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org
> 

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From jdinnis at gmail.com  Mon Oct 11 14:27:32 2021
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2021 15:27:32 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] cutting top out of barrel
In-Reply-To: <E4CD7B11-92AC-4FFE-89CA-709254C85A62@groupwbench.org>
References: <1UZ8BTmNGG.1fjzVXWCGIY.ref@johns-desktop>
 <1UZ8BTmNGG.1fjzVXWCGIY@johns-desktop>
 <E4CD7B11-92AC-4FFE-89CA-709254C85A62@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <CANuE7YD4F0XC9Y9w-s5n0y1djzbWiESQao5aAk-Aks-tCmjLMw@mail.gmail.com>

You can use a carbide burr in a rotozip or die grinder, but it will spark.
I'd wonder what kind of hydraulic fluid?  What is the flashpoint?  Have a
Mig Wilder?  You can use your argon tank to flood the drum with inert gas
and reduce the risk of fire, but this will become less effective as you cut
more of the lid away.  The other option is to intentionally burn out the
fluid before you remove the lid (it will be easier to put a fire out inside
a sealed drum than one with the top cut halfway off)..

On Mon, Oct 11, 2021 at 2:55 PM Jim Franklin <jamesf at groupwbench.org> wrote:

> Giant can opener :-)
>
> Jigsaw with a metal blade? Sawzall would also work but the blades are
> deeper and might not turn as easily/cleanly.
>
> Does roto-zip make a metal blade?
>
> jim
>
> On Oct 11, 2021, at 8:44 PM, john niolon <jniolon at att.net> wrote:
>
> got a 55 gallon barrel that held hyd fluid... need to cut the top
> out...don't want to use fire (torch) and last choice is hammer and chiselk
>
> any other suggestions ???
>
> john
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
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>

-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================
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From jniolon at att.net  Mon Oct 11 14:42:00 2021
From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon)
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2021 15:42:00 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] cutting top out of barrel
In-Reply-To: <CAOEriimPsQsVTO-=QC__iyvqCTLto5hfXxXgwHpo+DC3cuyNOg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1UZ8BTmNGG.1fjzVXWCGIY.ref@johns-desktop>
 <1UZ8BTmNGG.1fjzVXWCGIY@johns-desktop>
 <CAOEriimPsQsVTO-=QC__iyvqCTLto5hfXxXgwHpo+DC3cuyNOg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1UZ8BURQVC.2b8JWeGrNxy@johns-desktop>

I'm liking Paul's idea with the grinder...saw a couple of videos on YouTube  
showing that as an easy remedy... and no dangerous edges if you dress it 
right...

unibit holes in bottom and sides for draft... and bam !!  fire in the hole..

thanks guys

john





----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky at gmail.com>
To: john niolon <jniolon at att.net>
Sent: 10/11/2021 2:48:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] cutting top out of barrel



I've done this a bunch of times to make burn barrels. What I do is use an angle grinder and grind the top "crimp" until you can see you've 
split it all the way around and then give it a couple good whacks with a 
hammer. You _probably_ 
won't ignite hydraulic fluid doing that, but keep something handy to cover the bung in case it does start burning in there.


-Paul


On Mon, Oct 11, 2021 at 3:45 PM john niolon <jniolon at att.net> wrote:

got a 55 gallon barrel that held hyd fluid... need to cut the top out...don't 
want to use fire (torch) and last choice is hammer and chiselk

any other suggestions ???

john

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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From watsonm05 at comcast.net  Mon Oct 11 16:51:33 2021
From: watsonm05 at comcast.net (Mark Watson)
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2021 00:51:33 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Shop-talk] cutting top out of barrel
In-Reply-To: <1UZ8BTmNGG.1fjzVXWCGIY@johns-desktop>
References: <1UZ8BTmNGG.1fjzVXWCGIY.ref@johns-desktop>
 <1UZ8BTmNGG.1fjzVXWCGIY@johns-desktop>
Message-ID: <772940766.345062.1633992694014@connect.xfinity.com>

Years ago I used an air hammer (ear protection highly suggested) with a muffler bit like this:


Mayhew Tools? - Hang Tag Pneumatic Muffler/Tailpipe Remover

https://www.toolsid.com/mayhew-tools/hang-tag-pneumatic-muffler-tailpipe-remover-mpn-31965ht.html?singleid=3895926299

Too patience and a good compressor but did an ok job.

Mark Watson



>     On 10/11/2021 9:44 PM john niolon <jniolon at att.net> wrote:
> 
> 
>     got a 55 gallon barrel that held hyd fluid... need to cut the top out...don't want to use fire (torch) and last choice is hammer and chiselk
> 
>     any other suggestions ???
> 
>     john
> 
>     _______________________________________________
> 
>     Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation $12.96
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/watsonm05 at comcast.net
> 
> 
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From dirtbeard at gmail.com  Mon Oct 11 17:33:23 2021
From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard)
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2021 16:33:23 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] cutting top out of barrel
In-Reply-To: <772940766.345062.1633992694014@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <1UZ8BTmNGG.1fjzVXWCGIY.ref@johns-desktop>
 <1UZ8BTmNGG.1fjzVXWCGIY@johns-desktop>
 <772940766.345062.1633992694014@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <CAG1pxgbSeT4fWAsrVrfK02_PdO4AjDJ99uTPRqwiRjjQ8QsfEg@mail.gmail.com>

How about a Sawzall with the right blade?

best,
doug

On Mon, Oct 11, 2021 at 3:52 PM Mark Watson <watsonm05 at comcast.net> wrote:

> Years ago I used an air hammer (ear protection highly suggested) with a
> muffler bit like this: Mayhew Tools? - Hang Tag Pneumatic
> Muffler/Tailpipe Remover
>
> https://www.toolsid.com/mayhew-tools/hang-tag-pneumatic-muffler-tailpipe-remover-mpn-31965ht.html?singleid=3895926299
>
> Too patience and a good compressor but did an ok job.
>
> Mark Watson
>
>
> On 10/11/2021 9:44 PM john niolon <jniolon at att.net> wrote:
>
>
> got a 55 gallon barrel that held hyd fluid... need to cut the top
> out...don't want to use fire (torch) and last choice is hammer and chiselk
>
> any other suggestions ???
>
> john
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/watsonm05 at comcast.net
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
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>
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From 1789alpine at gmail.com  Thu Oct 21 17:34:21 2021
From: 1789alpine at gmail.com (Jim Stone)
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2021 19:34:21 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] OEM Spark Plugs
Message-ID: <51C1FBED-FED7-45AA-AA0F-43246E63E845@gmail.com>

My 2017 Honda Ridgeline is approaching its 105,000 mile service, which is a big one.  New timing belt is the main event, but Honda also recommends new spark plugs.  I did the timing belt on my old Ridgeline at 220,000 (it?s 3rd belt) but it was a PITA and I don?t think I want to take any chances on a newer, more valuable vehicle.  Spark plugs are a different story and the dealer gets over $300 to do those!

The reason changing plugs is so expensive is Honda?s price for the plugs themselves.  They list at $55 each, although you can get them discounted for the low, low price of about $40 each if you shop around.  https://www.hondapartsconnection.com/oem-parts/honda-spark-plug-dilzkr7b11g-ngk-12290r9pa01  But, here is where it gets interesting: The owner?s manual lists the plugs as NGK DILZKR7B11G, a number you can clearly see on the Honda box in the above link.  NGK lists that plug as $18 each (https://www.ngk.com/ngk-95350-dilzkr7b11g-laser-iridium-spark-plug) and you can find them at Rock Auto for about $12.

Ridgeline owners seem to be divided as to whether the plugs in the NGK box are any different from the ones in the Honda box.  I trust this group more than fellow Ridgeline owners.  What do you guys say?  Are the plugs in the Honda box likely to be different and worth an extra $170?

Jim
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From ronnie.day at gmail.com  Thu Oct 21 18:12:21 2021
From: ronnie.day at gmail.com (Ronnie Day)
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2021 19:12:21 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] OEM Spark Plugs
In-Reply-To: <51C1FBED-FED7-45AA-AA0F-43246E63E845@gmail.com>
References: <51C1FBED-FED7-45AA-AA0F-43246E63E845@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAMHhs6fkxwKfN8w-NsXYQyautLoNZZqT0+J7ZYRLRerZyz1GVg@mail.gmail.com>

Buy one of each and compare?

On Thu, Oct 21, 2021 at 6:35 PM Jim Stone <1789alpine at gmail.com> wrote:

> My 2017 Honda Ridgeline is approaching its 105,000 mile service, which is
> a big one.  New timing belt is the main event, but Honda also recommends
> new spark plugs.  I did the timing belt on my old Ridgeline at 220,000
> (it?s 3rd belt) but it was a PITA and I don?t think I want to take any
> chances on a newer, more valuable vehicle.  Spark plugs are a different
> story and the dealer gets over $300 to do those!
>
> The reason changing plugs is so expensive is Honda?s price for the plugs
> themselves.  They list at $55 *each*, although you can get them
> discounted for the low, low price of about $40 each if you shop around.
> https://www.hondapartsconnection.com/oem-parts/honda-spark-plug-dilzkr7b11g-ngk-12290r9pa01
>  But, here is where it gets interesting: The owner?s manual lists the plugs
> as NGK DILZKR7B11G, a number you can clearly see on the Honda box in the
> above link.  NGK lists that plug as $18 each (
> https://www.ngk.com/ngk-95350-dilzkr7b11g-laser-iridium-spark-plug) and
> you can find them at Rock Auto for about $12.
>
> Ridgeline owners seem to be divided as to whether the plugs in the NGK box
> are any different from the ones in the Honda box.  I trust this group more
> than fellow Ridgeline owners.  What do you guys say?  Are the plugs in the
> Honda box likely to be different and worth an extra $170?
>
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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From jem at milleredp.com  Thu Oct 21 18:34:55 2021
From: jem at milleredp.com (John Miller)
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2021 17:34:55 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] OEM Spark Plugs
In-Reply-To: <51C1FBED-FED7-45AA-AA0F-43246E63E845@gmail.com>
References: <51C1FBED-FED7-45AA-AA0F-43246E63E845@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <17ca56c0f98.27da.93404ec37c3bd49215a26b1de215359b@milleredp.com>



On October 21, 2021 4:35:19 PM Jim Stone <1789alpine at gmail.com> wrote:
> My 2017 Honda Ridgeline is approaching its 105,000 mile service, which is a 
> big one.  New timing belt is the main event, but Honda also recommends new 
> spark plugs.  I did the timing belt on my old Ridgeline at 220,000 (it?s 
> 3rd belt) but it was a PITA and I don?t think I want to take any chances on 
> a newer, more valuable vehicle.  Spark plugs are a different story and the 
> dealer gets over $300 to do those!


Working on transverse V6s is generally a pain in the arse some worse than 
others.

I would use the off the shelf NGKs, just about any decent modern plug is 
going to do 105K without drama.

John.

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From tjcora at icloud.com  Fri Oct 22 05:30:21 2021
From: tjcora at icloud.com (Thomas Coradeschi)
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2021 07:30:21 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] OEM Spark Plugs
In-Reply-To: <51C1FBED-FED7-45AA-AA0F-43246E63E845@gmail.com>
References: <51C1FBED-FED7-45AA-AA0F-43246E63E845@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <646BAA24-77BF-43A8-8E56-20B1385E815B@icloud.com>

You are spot on with this. There is no point in paying Honda an insane premium for parts which they clearly source from someone else. Of course, I?m old enough to think that even 18 bucks for a spark plug is highway robbery:-)

Tom Coradeschi
tjcora at icloud.com

> On Oct 21, 2021, at 7:42 PM, Jim Stone <1789alpine at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?My 2017 Honda Ridgeline is approaching its 105,000 mile service, which is a big one.  New timing belt is the main event, but Honda also recommends new spark plugs.  I did the timing belt on my old Ridgeline at 220,000 (it?s 3rd belt) but it was a PITA and I don?t think I want to take any chances on a newer, more valuable vehicle.  Spark plugs are a different story and the dealer gets over $300 to do those!
> 
> The reason changing plugs is so expensive is Honda?s price for the plugs themselves.  They list at $55 each, although you can get them discounted for the low, low price of about $40 each if you shop around.  https://www.hondapartsconnection.com/oem-parts/honda-spark-plug-dilzkr7b11g-ngk-12290r9pa01  But, here is where it gets interesting: The owner?s manual lists the plugs as NGK DILZKR7B11G, a number you can clearly see on the Honda box in the above link.  NGK lists that plug as $18 each (https://www.ngk.com/ngk-95350-dilzkr7b11g-laser-iridium-spark-plug) and you can find them at Rock Auto for about $12.
> 
> Ridgeline owners seem to be divided as to whether the plugs in the NGK box are any different from the ones in the Honda box.  I trust this group more than fellow Ridgeline owners.  What do you guys say?  Are the plugs in the Honda box likely to be different and worth an extra $170?
> 
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
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> 
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From miq at bigllama.com  Fri Oct 22 08:44:57 2021
From: miq at bigllama.com (MIQ MILLMAN)
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2021 07:44:57 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] OEM Spark Plugs
In-Reply-To: <646BAA24-77BF-43A8-8E56-20B1385E815B@icloud.com>
References: <51C1FBED-FED7-45AA-AA0F-43246E63E845@gmail.com>
 <646BAA24-77BF-43A8-8E56-20B1385E815B@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <CAASF5jED2Hpc3sSLbBnSoKzKoSTY81zKXOzJM85Qd_CssDiwbw@mail.gmail.com>

Honda likely performs another round of quality control and tests the NGK
plugs to make certain that they meet the needed criteria, and then brand
them as Honda white boxed plugs.  I am not saying the added cost is
justified.

If you go with the generic NGK you will most likely get the same thing
(who's to say NGK quality control is any better than Honda's (or vice
versa)?)

This is similar to what Intel does with CPU's-- they test all the chips off
a wafer, and the ones that don't meet the needed spec get resold as lower
spec, slower CPU.

Personally, I can't imagine that there is going to be a
noticeable difference in the spark output from a $12 NGK to a $40 HNGK.


<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon>
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On Fri, Oct 22, 2021 at 4:42 AM Thomas Coradeschi <tjcora at icloud.com> wrote:

> You are spot on with this. There is no point in paying Honda an insane
> premium for parts which they clearly source from someone else. Of course,
> I?m old enough to think that even 18 bucks for a spark plug is highway
> robbery:-)
>
> Tom Coradeschi
> tjcora at icloud.com
>
> On Oct 21, 2021, at 7:42 PM, Jim Stone <1789alpine at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?My 2017 Honda Ridgeline is approaching its 105,000 mile service, which is
> a big one.  New timing belt is the main event, but Honda also recommends
> new spark plugs.  I did the timing belt on my old Ridgeline at 220,000
> (it?s 3rd belt) but it was a PITA and I don?t think I want to take any
> chances on a newer, more valuable vehicle.  Spark plugs are a different
> story and the dealer gets over $300 to do those!
>
> The reason changing plugs is so expensive is Honda?s price for the plugs
> themselves.  They list at $55 *each*, although you can get them
> discounted for the low, low price of about $40 each if you shop around.
> https://www.hondapartsconnection.com/oem-parts/honda-spark-plug-dilzkr7b11g-ngk-12290r9pa01
>  But, here is where it gets interesting: The owner?s manual lists the plugs
> as NGK DILZKR7B11G, a number you can clearly see on the Honda box in the
> above link.  NGK lists that plug as $18 each (
> https://www.ngk.com/ngk-95350-dilzkr7b11g-laser-iridium-spark-plug) and
> you can find them at Rock Auto for about $12.
>
> Ridgeline owners seem to be divided as to whether the plugs in the NGK box
> are any different from the ones in the Honda box.  I trust this group more
> than fellow Ridgeline owners.  What do you guys say?  Are the plugs in the
> Honda box likely to be different and worth an extra $170?
>
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tjcora at icloud.com
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
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>
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From jblair1948 at cox.net  Fri Oct 22 11:00:49 2021
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2021 13:00:49 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] OEM Spark Plugs
In-Reply-To: <646BAA24-77BF-43A8-8E56-20B1385E815B@icloud.com>
References: <51C1FBED-FED7-45AA-AA0F-43246E63E845@gmail.com>
 <646BAA24-77BF-43A8-8E56-20B1385E815B@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20211022125850.04b5d7b8@cox.net>

At 07:30 AM 10/22/2021, Thomas Coradeschi wrote:

 >.... Of course, I'm old enough to think that even 18 bucks for a 
spark plug is
 >highway robbery:-)

Tom,

I'm with you on that.  I think we paid $5. for a set of plug for a 
V8, and $.035
for gas (and down as low as $0.19) during gas wars!

John


John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/morgan
Bricklin:     www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
      In God We Trust
      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction




-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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From 1789alpine at gmail.com  Fri Oct 22 13:15:31 2021
From: 1789alpine at gmail.com (Jim Stone)
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2021 15:15:31 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] OEM Spark Plugs
In-Reply-To: <CAASF5jED2Hpc3sSLbBnSoKzKoSTY81zKXOzJM85Qd_CssDiwbw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <51C1FBED-FED7-45AA-AA0F-43246E63E845@gmail.com>
 <646BAA24-77BF-43A8-8E56-20B1385E815B@icloud.com>
 <CAASF5jED2Hpc3sSLbBnSoKzKoSTY81zKXOzJM85Qd_CssDiwbw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <85836637-E017-44E9-9D1F-CCD3239F9DBE@gmail.com>

Thanks, Guys.  That all confirms what I suspected.  I hadn?t thought of the extra quality control step; that seems likely, but not worth the price difference.  I?ll gamble the $48 for the generic NGK plugs and report back if I notice any difference at all.

Jim

> On Oct 22, 2021, at 10:44 AM, MIQ MILLMAN <miq at bigllama.com> wrote:
> 
> Honda likely performs another round of quality control and tests the NGK plugs to make certain that they meet the needed criteria, and then brand them as Honda white boxed plugs.  I am not saying the added cost is justified.
> 
> If you go with the generic NGK you will most likely get the same thing (who's to say NGK quality control is any better than Honda's (or vice versa)?) 
> 
> This is similar to what Intel does with CPU's-- they test all the chips off a wafer, and the ones that don't meet the needed spec get resold as lower spec, slower CPU.
> 
> Personally, I can't imagine that there is going to be a noticeable difference in the spark output from a $12 NGK to a $40 HNGK.
> 
> 
>  <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon>	Virus-free. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=link> <x-msg://62/#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> On Fri, Oct 22, 2021 at 4:42 AM Thomas Coradeschi <tjcora at icloud.com <mailto:tjcora at icloud.com>> wrote:
> You are spot on with this. There is no point in paying Honda an insane premium for parts which they clearly source from someone else. Of course, I?m old enough to think that even 18 bucks for a spark plug is highway robbery:-)
> 
> Tom Coradeschi
> tjcora at icloud.com <mailto:tjcora at icloud.com>
> 
>> On Oct 21, 2021, at 7:42 PM, Jim Stone <1789alpine at gmail.com <mailto:1789alpine at gmail.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> ?My 2017 Honda Ridgeline is approaching its 105,000 mile service, which is a big one.  New timing belt is the main event, but Honda also recommends new spark plugs.  I did the timing belt on my old Ridgeline at 220,000 (it?s 3rd belt) but it was a PITA and I don?t think I want to take any chances on a newer, more valuable vehicle.  Spark plugs are a different story and the dealer gets over $300 to do those!
>> 
>> The reason changing plugs is so expensive is Honda?s price for the plugs themselves.  They list at $55 each, although you can get them discounted for the low, low price of about $40 each if you shop around.  https://www.hondapartsconnection.com/oem-parts/honda-spark-plug-dilzkr7b11g-ngk-12290r9pa01 <https://www.hondapartsconnection.com/oem-parts/honda-spark-plug-dilzkr7b11g-ngk-12290r9pa01>  But, here is where it gets interesting: The owner?s manual lists the plugs as NGK DILZKR7B11G, a number you can clearly see on the Honda box in the above link.  NGK lists that plug as $18 each (https://www.ngk.com/ngk-95350-dilzkr7b11g-laser-iridium-spark-plug <https://www.ngk.com/ngk-95350-dilzkr7b11g-laser-iridium-spark-plug>) and you can find them at Rock Auto for about $12.
>> 
>> Ridgeline owners seem to be divided as to whether the plugs in the NGK box are any different from the ones in the Honda box.  I trust this group more than fellow Ridgeline owners.  What do you guys say?  Are the plugs in the Honda box likely to be different and worth an extra $170?
>> 
>> Jim
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk <http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tjcora at icloud.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tjcora at icloud.com>
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk <http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/miq at bigllama.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/miq at bigllama.com>
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From tjcora at icloud.com  Sat Oct 23 06:45:22 2021
From: tjcora at icloud.com (Thomas Coradeschi)
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2021 08:45:22 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] OEM Spark Plugs
In-Reply-To: <CAASF5jED2Hpc3sSLbBnSoKzKoSTY81zKXOzJM85Qd_CssDiwbw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <51C1FBED-FED7-45AA-AA0F-43246E63E845@gmail.com>
 <646BAA24-77BF-43A8-8E56-20B1385E815B@icloud.com>
 <CAASF5jED2Hpc3sSLbBnSoKzKoSTY81zKXOzJM85Qd_CssDiwbw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADF62D9-5B2F-424B-8F19-2856EBE86A37@icloud.com>

I?ve been in the production mgt business long enough to be very confident in asserting that Honda does no additional testing of any sort. They buy from NGK - in a ?Honda? box - on a certificate of conformance and get on with life. After applying the appropriate 458% markup, of course.

?
Tom Coradeschi
tjcora at icloud.com


> On 22 Oct 2021, at 10:44 AM, MIQ MILLMAN <miq at bigllama.com> wrote:
> 
> Honda likely performs another round of quality control and tests the NGK plugs to make certain that they meet the needed criteria, and then brand them as Honda white boxed plugs.  I am not saying the added cost is justified.
> 
> If you go with the generic NGK you will most likely get the same thing (who's to say NGK quality control is any better than Honda's (or vice versa)?) 
> 
> This is similar to what Intel does with CPU's-- they test all the chips off a wafer, and the ones that don't meet the needed spec get resold as lower spec, slower CPU.
> 
> Personally, I can't imagine that there is going to be a noticeable difference in the spark output from a $12 NGK to a $40 HNGK.
> 
> 
> 	Virus-free. www.avast.com
> 
> On Fri, Oct 22, 2021 at 4:42 AM Thomas Coradeschi <tjcora at icloud.com> wrote:
> You are spot on with this. There is no point in paying Honda an insane premium for parts which they clearly source from someone else. Of course, I?m old enough to think that even 18 bucks for a spark plug is highway robbery:-)
> 
> Tom Coradeschi
> tjcora at icloud.com
> 
>> On Oct 21, 2021, at 7:42 PM, Jim Stone <1789alpine at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?My 2017 Honda Ridgeline is approaching its 105,000 mile service, which is a big one.  New timing belt is the main event, but Honda also recommends new spark plugs.  I did the timing belt on my old Ridgeline at 220,000 (it?s 3rd belt) but it was a PITA and I don?t think I want to take any chances on a newer, more valuable vehicle.  Spark plugs are a different story and the dealer gets over $300 to do those!
>> 
>> The reason changing plugs is so expensive is Honda?s price for the plugs themselves.  They list at $55 each, although you can get them discounted for the low, low price of about $40 each if you shop around.  https://www.hondapartsconnection.com/oem-parts/honda-spark-plug-dilzkr7b11g-ngk-12290r9pa01  But, here is where it gets interesting: The owner?s manual lists the plugs as NGK DILZKR7B11G, a number you can clearly see on the Honda box in the above link.  NGK lists that plug as $18 each (https://www.ngk.com/ngk-95350-dilzkr7b11g-laser-iridium-spark-plug) and you can find them at Rock Auto for about $12.
>> 
>> Ridgeline owners seem to be divided as to whether the plugs in the NGK box are any different from the ones in the Honda box.  I trust this group more than fellow Ridgeline owners.  What do you guys say?  Are the plugs in the Honda box likely to be different and worth an extra $170?
>> 
>> Jim
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tjcora at icloud.com
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/miq at bigllama.com
> 


From tjcora at icloud.com  Sat Oct 23 06:47:49 2021
From: tjcora at icloud.com (Thomas Coradeschi)
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2021 08:47:49 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] OEM Spark Plugs
In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20211022125850.04b5d7b8@cox.net>
References: <51C1FBED-FED7-45AA-AA0F-43246E63E845@gmail.com>
 <646BAA24-77BF-43A8-8E56-20B1385E815B@icloud.com>
 <6.2.5.6.1.20211022125850.04b5d7b8@cox.net>
Message-ID: <DE594B53-0F82-4E18-A119-DFEB0D612DF6@icloud.com>

Heck, I just bought a set of plugs for my wife?s Acadia - they ran like $7.50 each, from the dealer.

Honda has a history of price gouging, going back decades...

?
Tom Coradeschi
tjcora at icloud.com


> On 22 Oct 2021, at 1:00 PM, John T. Blair <jblair1948 at cox.net> wrote:
> 
> At 07:30 AM 10/22/2021, Thomas Coradeschi wrote:
> 
> >.... Of course, I'm old enough to think that even 18 bucks for a spark plug is 
> >highway robbery:-)
> 
> Tom,
> 
> I'm with you on that.  I think we paid $5. for a set of plug for a V8, and $.035
> for gas (and down as low as $0.19) during gas wars!
> 
> John
> 
> 
> 	Virus-free. www.avast.com
> 
> John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
> Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229
> 
>           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
>      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
>                        65 Rambler Classic
> 
> Morgan:    www.team.net/morgan
> Bricklin:     www.bricklin.org
> 
> If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
> If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!
> 
> From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
>      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
>      In God We Trust
>      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for 
>                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tjcora at icloud.com
> 


From eric at megageek.com  Mon Oct 25 07:19:52 2021
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2021 09:19:52 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] converting to a dually
Message-ID: <OFAEBC9EB4.7634396B-ON85258779.0048B33C-85258779.00493B05@mail.megageek.com>

Gang, quick question.

Does anyone here have any experience with converting a truck to dually?

Here is the truck I am thinking of buying....

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/431174018435946/?referralSurface=messenger_lightspeed_banner&referralCode=messenger_banner

I'm making a purpose built truck and was wondering if making this a dually 
is as simple as buying new rims and tires for the rear. (of course I'll be 
putting fender extensions as well.

Is it that easy or is there other things that need to happen?

Also, anyone have any advice on this truck?  (Note, I expect to do a lot 
of body work.)

Thanks.

Moose
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From shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org  Mon Oct 25 07:49:59 2021
From: shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org (Ian McFetridge)
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2021 09:49:59 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] converting to a dually
In-Reply-To: <OFAEBC9EB4.7634396B-ON85258779.0048B33C-85258779.00493B05@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OFAEBC9EB4.7634396B-ON85258779.0048B33C-85258779.00493B05@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <CAFnfnRVO86+YFEzRgSGW+9E5yYsGEHBn5NtwGn6Ui0ky4BtcYg@mail.gmail.com>

Hey Eric,

My in-laws have had a 1998 F350 7.3D dually since new and we still use it
on the horse farm with 200k+ miles. It came as a dually, so I can't comment
on what is involved in turning one into a dually, but I can say I've seen
single wheel conversions and found this post on a site I frequent for
PowerStrokeDiesel  (PSD) maintenance.  The axle length seems to be the
toughest nut.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1037805-dual-to-single-wheel-swap.html

As far as reliability, I believe we have replaced injectors and the one
pump (hi-pressure, I think).  Otherwise, it has been flawless at stock
power, including the transmission and many years of towing horses.  Just we
leary of any modified 7.3 and the transmission.  The engine takes well to
mild mods, but the transmission does not.

Here's the pre-inspection list they point folks to on the site.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/523079-new-sticky-for-common-mods-section-truck-buyer-frequent-questions.html

Best,
Ian

On Mon, Oct 25, 2021 at 9:20 AM <eric at megageek.com> wrote:

> Gang, quick question.
>
> Does anyone here have any experience with converting a truck to dually?
>
> Here is the truck I am thinking of buying....
>
>
> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/431174018435946/?referralSurface=messenger_lightspeed_banner&referralCode=messenger_banner
>
> I'm making a purpose built truck and was wondering if making this a dually
> is as simple as buying new rims and tires for the rear. (of course I'll be
> putting fender extensions as well.
>
> Is it that easy or is there other things that need to happen?
>
> Also, anyone have any advice on this truck?  (Note, I expect to do a lot
> of body work.)
>
> Thanks.
>
> Moose_______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org
>
>
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