From watsonm05 at comcast.net  Mon Mar  1 14:06:48 2021
From: watsonm05 at comcast.net (Mark Watson)
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2021 22:06:48 +0100 (CET)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shipping an engine from UK to US
In-Reply-To: <OF90052773.CEE63701-ON85258688.00420F7B-85258688.00422CBA@mail.megageek.com>
References: <8792E541-2F9B-42BF-B470-B0F53C4F23FF@hammatt.com>
 <OF90052773.CEE63701-ON85258688.00420F7B-85258688.00422CBA@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <285079163.100550.1614632809497@connect.xfinity.com>

Ok group.  I might be able to get a rebuilt engine for my 1956 Daimler Regency '104'.  However, it's in England and I need to somehow arrange for its shipping.  And possibly its packing (palletizing, I guess?).

Gulp - the prices are mind boggling.

Does anyone have any tips or guidance?

Know of a reputable company that will handle an engine?

It's a 3.5 litre straight six that doesn't skimp on the cast iron.  I don't know weight - I'm going to have to try to weigh one that I have that's a complete short block with head but damaged. 

If you're bored enough to look at it here's the ebay link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1950s-Daimler-3-5ltr-6-cylinder-engine/284196165869

Thanks,

Mark Watson
1956 Daimler Regency '104' long term restoration project that hopefully this will really kick-start work ;-)
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From watsonm05 at comcast.net  Mon Mar  1 14:14:28 2021
From: watsonm05 at comcast.net (Mark Watson)
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2021 22:14:28 +0100 (CET)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shipping an engine from UK to US
In-Reply-To: <285079163.100550.1614632809497@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <8792E541-2F9B-42BF-B470-B0F53C4F23FF@hammatt.com>
 <OF90052773.CEE63701-ON85258688.00420F7B-85258688.00422CBA@mail.megageek.com>
 <285079163.100550.1614632809497@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <1726068660.100612.1614633269693@connect.xfinity.com>

I guess I should have said I'm in Richmond VA, USA

>     On 03/01/2021 10:06 PM Mark Watson <watsonm05 at comcast.net> wrote:
>      
>      
>     Ok group.  I might be able to get a rebuilt engine for my 1956 Daimler Regency '104'.  However, it's in England and I need to somehow arrange for its shipping.  And possibly its packing (palletizing, I guess?).
>      
>     Gulp - the prices are mind boggling.
>      
>     Does anyone have any tips or guidance?
>      
>     Know of a reputable company that will handle an engine?
>      
>     It's a 3.5 litre straight six that doesn't skimp on the cast iron.  I don't know weight - I'm going to have to try to weigh one that I have that's a complete short block with head but damaged. 
>      
>     If you're bored enough to look at it here's the ebay link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1950s-Daimler-3-5ltr-6-cylinder-engine/284196165869
>      
>     Thanks,
>      
>     Mark Watson
>     1956 Daimler Regency '104' long term restoration project that hopefully this will really kick-start work ;-)
>      
>     _______________________________________________
> 
>     Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation $12.96
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/watsonm05 at comcast.net
> 
> 
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From patintexas at icloud.com  Mon Mar  1 14:14:39 2021
From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2021 15:14:39 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shipping an engine from UK to US
In-Reply-To: <285079163.100550.1614632809497@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <285079163.100550.1614632809497@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <61C5FE40-10E4-4E2F-B92F-9C037EF9F923@icloud.com>

I priced having an exhaust system shipped from UK to US. $120! That?s for a sports car, 2 pieces of pipe, 1 smaller muffler & a small resonator. 

Cheapest way to get the engine delivered might be to find someone sending a conex container this way & adding it. I understand that the price is the same empty or full. 

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne 
We support Habitat for Humanity


On Mar 1, 2021, at 3:08 PM, Mark Watson <watsonm05 at comcast.net> wrote:

?
Ok group.  I might be able to get a rebuilt engine for my 1956 Daimler Regency '104'.  However, it's in England and I need to somehow arrange for its shipping.  And possibly its packing (palletizing, I guess?).
 
Gulp - the prices are mind boggling.
 
Does anyone have any tips or guidance?
 
Know of a reputable company that will handle an engine?
 
It's a 3.5 litre straight six that doesn't skimp on the cast iron.  I don't know weight - I'm going to have to try to weigh one that I have that's a complete short block with head but damaged. 
 
If you're bored enough to look at it here's the ebay link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1950s-Daimler-3-5ltr-6-cylinder-engine/284196165869
 
Thanks,
 
Mark Watson
1956 Daimler Regency '104' long term restoration project that hopefully this will really kick-start work ;-)
 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com

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From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Mon Mar  1 14:16:39 2021
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Benjamin Zwissler)
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2021 16:16:39 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shipping an engine from UK to US
In-Reply-To: <285079163.100550.1614632809497@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <8792E541-2F9B-42BF-B470-B0F53C4F23FF@hammatt.com>
 <OF90052773.CEE63701-ON85258688.00420F7B-85258688.00422CBA@mail.megageek.com>
 <285079163.100550.1614632809497@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <CAMHq6Zy7z6znA_N=hnK68oqto29kqFUfmnourKAsNrNjGxA5dA@mail.gmail.com>

Not sure about the UK, but here in the US you'd want a "freight
forwarder".  They gather up lots of small shipments and build larger ones
to save money by creating full truckloads or containers.  For within the US
they're also called "less than truckload" carriers.  It may have to be
crated, just not put on a pallet.

Hopefully the seller is cooperating.  They don't typically go to homes to
pick up or drop off cargo.  If they do it's usually a lot of extra money
and for something like this you'll need a forklift or a lift gate.  Lift
gates are also extra money and sometimes the driver has a pallet jack and
sometimes they don't.

Ben



Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com
812-343-5533
Columbus, IN


On Mon, Mar 1, 2021 at 4:08 PM Mark Watson <watsonm05 at comcast.net> wrote:

> Ok group.  I might be able to get a rebuilt engine for my 1956 Daimler
> Regency '104'.  However, it's in England and I need to somehow arrange for
> its shipping.  And possibly its packing (palletizing, I guess?).
>
> Gulp - the prices are mind boggling.
>
> Does anyone have any tips or guidance?
>
> Know of a reputable company that will handle an engine?
>
> It's a 3.5 litre straight six that doesn't skimp on the cast iron.  I
> don't know weight - I'm going to have to try to weigh one that I have
> that's a complete short block with head but damaged.
>
> If you're bored enough to look at it here's the ebay link:
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/1950s-Daimler-3-5ltr-6-cylinder-engine/284196165869
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mark Watson
> 1956 Daimler Regency '104' long term restoration project that hopefully
> this will really kick-start work ;-)
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler at gmail.com
>
>
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From lists at dinospider.com  Mon Mar  1 14:25:28 2021
From: lists at dinospider.com (Mike Rambour)
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2021 13:25:28 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shipping an engine from UK to US
In-Reply-To: <285079163.100550.1614632809497@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <8792E541-2F9B-42BF-B470-B0F53C4F23FF@hammatt.com>
 <OF90052773.CEE63701-ON85258688.00420F7B-85258688.00422CBA@mail.megageek.com>
 <285079163.100550.1614632809497@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <d7be7884-ba6d-5825-1e12-259a2626b103@dinospider.com>

 ? I can strongly NOT recommend CFR Rinkens? ( cfrrinkens.com ).?? 
Although they will be the cheapest by throwing your engine in a 
container with who knows what else...throwing is the correct word and 
then it will sit on docks for months in random ports.? But they will be 
cheap and it will arrive only a few months late.

 ? I can find out who the body builder building my cars body is going to 
use, he has shipped bodies to the U.S. before and will be shipping mine 
in a few weeks.? He uses them because they do the palletizing and 
everything.

> ?Pack and Send? has come back to me with ball park figures at today?s 
> rates to get the body to you. ?This is a door to door service with a 
> tailor made packing case made.
>
> Sea freight approx. ?2,200
> Air freight approx. ??4,000

 ?This is for a coachbuilt car body tub, from cowl to rear, so a little 
larger than a engine but not much and being coachbuilt (wood frame with 
flimsy aluminum skin) I bet its actually lighter than a engine.

 ? I don't know that actual contact information but I am sure I can find 
out and at the rate he is cutting/shaping wood/fitting the skin, I will 
likely find out very soon anyway.? The price above is to California from 
Lincoln, UK.

 ??? mike

On 3/1/21 1:06 PM, Mark Watson wrote:
> Ok group.? I might be able to get a rebuilt engine for my 1956 Daimler 
> Regency '104'.? However, it's in England and I need to somehow arrange 
> for its shipping.? And possibly its packing (palletizing, I guess?).
> Gulp - the prices are mind boggling.
> Does anyone have any tips or guidance?
> Know of a reputable company that will handle an engine?
> It's a 3.5 litre straight six that doesn't skimp on the cast iron.? I 
> don't know weight - I'm going to have to try to weigh one that I have 
> that's a complete short block with head but damaged.
> If you're bored enough to look at it here's the ebay link: 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/1950s-Daimler-3-5ltr-6-cylinder-engine/284196165869 
> <https://www.ebay.com/itm/1950s-Daimler-3-5ltr-6-cylinder-engine/284196165869> 
>
> Thanks,
> Mark Watson
> 1956 Daimler Regency '104' long term restoration project that 
> hopefully this will really kick-start work ;-)
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/lists at dinospider.com
>

-- 
A gun is like a parachute, if you need one but don't have it,
you'll probably never need one again.

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From 1789alpine at gmail.com  Mon Mar  1 15:21:52 2021
From: 1789alpine at gmail.com (Jim Stone)
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2021 17:21:52 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shipping an engine from UK to US
In-Reply-To: <285079163.100550.1614632809497@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <8792E541-2F9B-42BF-B470-B0F53C4F23FF@hammatt.com>
 <OF90052773.CEE63701-ON85258688.00420F7B-85258688.00422CBA@mail.megageek.com>
 <285079163.100550.1614632809497@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <BFBBF1F2-F6F5-41D6-9A66-F5CDEE3A1B94@gmail.com>

FWIW, I bought a transmission in England a number of years ago from a rebuilder who ships transmissions across the pond pretty regularly.  Her shipped it FedEx, whatever their overseas equivalent of ?ground? is.  I would have never considered them, but it was under $200 to St. Louis.  That was more than 10 years ago, but I believe he is still using FedEx, which tells me they are still a cost-efficient way to go.

> On Mar 1, 2021, at 4:06 PM, Mark Watson <watsonm05 at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> Ok group.  I might be able to get a rebuilt engine for my 1956 Daimler Regency '104'.  However, it's in England and I need to somehow arrange for its shipping.  And possibly its packing (palletizing, I guess?).
>  
> Gulp - the prices are mind boggling.
>  
> Does anyone have any tips or guidance?
>  
> Know of a reputable company that will handle an engine?
>  
> It's a 3.5 litre straight six that doesn't skimp on the cast iron.  I don't know weight - I'm going to have to try to weigh one that I have that's a complete short block with head but damaged. 
>  
> If you're bored enough to look at it here's the ebay link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1950s-Daimler-3-5ltr-6-cylinder-engine/284196165869 <https://www.ebay.com/itm/1950s-Daimler-3-5ltr-6-cylinder-engine/284196165869>
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> Mark Watson
> 1956 Daimler Regency '104' long term restoration project that hopefully this will really kick-start work ;-)
>  
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789alpine at gmail.com
> 

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From neiljsherry at talktalk.net  Tue Mar  2 00:31:39 2021
From: neiljsherry at talktalk.net (neiljsherry at talktalk.net)
Date: Tue, 02 Mar 2021 07:31:39 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shipping an engine from UK to US
In-Reply-To: <BFBBF1F2-F6F5-41D6-9A66-F5CDEE3A1B94@gmail.com>
References: <8792E541-2F9B-42BF-B470-B0F53C4F23FF@hammatt.com>
 <OF90052773.CEE63701-ON85258688.00420F7B-85258688.00422CBA@mail.megageek.com>
 <285079163.100550.1614632809497@connect.xfinity.com>
 <BFBBF1F2-F6F5-41D6-9A66-F5CDEE3A1B94@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <056776F1-4ADF-40B0-BF0A-8BB46764F09B@talktalk.net>

I sent an MGB gearbox from UK to Finland last year - UPS worked out best for that.
My guess is that this engine would be around 250kg - possibly up to 300 - so considerably more. Quick search of http://www.p4d.co.uk/ gives around ?600 for a half pallet (up to 500kg) - I have no experience of this company, so you would need to get it checked - and see if seller could drop the engine on a pallet...
Neil

On 1 March 2021 22:21:52 GMT, Jim Stone <1789alpine at gmail.com> wrote:
>FWIW, I bought a transmission in England a number of years ago from a
>rebuilder who ships transmissions across the pond pretty regularly. 
>Her shipped it FedEx, whatever their overseas equivalent of ?ground?
>is.  I would have never considered them, but it was under $200 to St.
>Louis.  That was more than 10 years ago, but I believe he is still
>using FedEx, which tells me they are still a cost-efficient way to go.
>
>> On Mar 1, 2021, at 4:06 PM, Mark Watson <watsonm05 at comcast.net>
>wrote:
>> 
>> Ok group.  I might be able to get a rebuilt engine for my 1956
>Daimler Regency '104'.  However, it's in England and I need to somehow
>arrange for its shipping.  And possibly its packing (palletizing, I
>guess?).
>>  
>> Gulp - the prices are mind boggling.
>>  
>> Does anyone have any tips or guidance?
>>  
>> Know of a reputable company that will handle an engine?
>>  
>> It's a 3.5 litre straight six that doesn't skimp on the cast iron.  I
>don't know weight - I'm going to have to try to weigh one that I have
>that's a complete short block with head but damaged. 
>>  
>> If you're bored enough to look at it here's the ebay link:
>https://www.ebay.com/itm/1950s-Daimler-3-5ltr-6-cylinder-engine/284196165869
><https://www.ebay.com/itm/1950s-Daimler-3-5ltr-6-cylinder-engine/284196165869>
>>  
>> Thanks,
>>  
>> Mark Watson
>> 1956 Daimler Regency '104' long term restoration project that
>hopefully this will really kick-start work ;-)
>>  
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789alpine at gmail.com
>> 

-- 
Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.
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From watsonm05 at comcast.net  Wed Mar  3 06:25:44 2021
From: watsonm05 at comcast.net (Mark Watson)
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2021 14:25:44 +0100 (CET)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shipping an engine from UK to US
In-Reply-To: <d7be7884-ba6d-5825-1e12-259a2626b103@dinospider.com>
References: <8792E541-2F9B-42BF-B470-B0F53C4F23FF@hammatt.com>
 <OF90052773.CEE63701-ON85258688.00420F7B-85258688.00422CBA@mail.megageek.com>
 <285079163.100550.1614632809497@connect.xfinity.com>
 <d7be7884-ba6d-5825-1e12-259a2626b103@dinospider.com>
Message-ID: <1671295608.116144.1614777972990@connect.xfinity.com>

Wow - you folks are GREAT!  Thanks for the excellent information.

Mike - I'd greatly appreciate the info you offered.

Thanks again - Mark

>     On 03/01/2021 10:25 PM Mike Rambour <lists at dinospider.com> wrote:
>      
>      
>       I can strongly NOT recommend CFR Rinkens  ( cfrrinkens.com ).   Although they will be the cheapest by throwing your engine in a container with who knows what else...throwing is the correct word and then it will sit on docks for months in random ports.  But they will be cheap and it will arrive only a few months late.
>      
>       I can find out who the body builder building my cars body is going to use, he has shipped bodies to the U.S. before and will be shipping mine in a few weeks.  He uses them because they do the palletizing and everything.
>      
> 
>         > >         ?Pack and Send? has come back to me with ball park figures at today?s rates to get the body to you.  This is a door to door service with a tailor made packing case made.
> >          
> >         Sea freight approx. ?2,200
> >         Air freight approx.  ?4,000
> > 
> >     >      This is for a coachbuilt car body tub, from cowl to rear, so a little larger than a engine but not much and being coachbuilt (wood frame with flimsy aluminum skin) I bet its actually lighter than a engine.
>      
>       I don't know that actual contact information but I am sure I can find out and at the rate he is cutting/shaping wood/fitting the skin, I will likely find out very soon anyway.  The price above is to California from Lincoln, UK.
>      
>         mike
>      
>     On 3/1/21 1:06 PM, Mark Watson wrote:
> 
>         > >         Ok group.  I might be able to get a rebuilt engine for my 1956 Daimler Regency '104'.  However, it's in England and I need to somehow arrange for its shipping.  And possibly its packing (palletizing, I guess?).
> >          
> >         Gulp - the prices are mind boggling.
> >          
> >         Does anyone have any tips or guidance?
> >          
> >         Know of a reputable company that will handle an engine?
> >          
> >         It's a 3.5 litre straight six that doesn't skimp on the cast iron.  I don't know weight - I'm going to have to try to weigh one that I have that's a complete short block with head but damaged. 
> >          
> >         If you're bored enough to look at it here's the ebay link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1950s-Daimler-3-5ltr-6-cylinder-engine/284196165869
> >          
> >         Thanks,
> >          
> >         Mark Watson
> >         1956 Daimler Regency '104' long term restoration project that hopefully this will really kick-start work ;-)
> >          
> > 
> > 
> >         _______________________________________________
> > 
> >         Shop-talk at autox.team.net mailto:Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> >         Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >         Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> >         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> > 
> >         Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/lists at dinospider.com
> > 
> > 
> >     > 
>      
> 
>     -- 
>     A gun is like a parachute, if you need one but don't have it,
>     you'll probably never need one again.
> 
>     _______________________________________________
> 
>     Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation $12.96
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/watsonm05 at comcast.net
> 
> 
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From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Wed Mar  3 08:34:58 2021
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2021 09:34:58 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shipping an engine from UK to US
In-Reply-To: <1671295608.116144.1614777972990@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <1671295608.116144.1614777972990@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <8AAA54A0-01C0-47B6-9A4D-CC7C968F043D@gmail.com>

One thing that is very important when shipping an engine freight is packing it properly. It needs to be bolted (at the engine mounts, usually) to solidly built frame, which is bolted to a top quality pallet, and then have a crate built around it.  The crate has to be strong enough to hold whatever the freight company puts on top of it.  

> On Mar 3, 2021, at 07:27, Mark Watson <watsonm05 at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Wow - you folks are GREAT!  Thanks for the excellent information.
>  
> Mike - I'd greatly appreciate the info you offered.
>  
> Thanks again - Mark
>>> On 03/01/2021 10:25 PM Mike Rambour <lists at dinospider.com> wrote:
>>>  
>>>  
>>>   I can strongly NOT recommend CFR Rinkens  ( cfrrinkens.com ).   Although they will be the cheapest by throwing your engine in a container with who knows what else...throwing is the correct word and then it will sit on docks for months in random ports.  But they will be cheap and it will arrive only a few months late.
>>>  
>>>   I can find out who the body builder building my cars body is going to use, he has shipped bodies to the U.S. before and will be shipping mine in a few weeks.  He uses them because they do the palletizing and everything.
>>>  
>>> ?Pack and Send? has come back to me with ball park figures at today?s rates to get the body to you.  This is a door to door service with a tailor made packing case made.
>>>  
>>> Sea freight approx. ?2,200
>>> Air freight approx.  ?4,000
>> 
>>  This is for a coachbuilt car body tub, from cowl to rear, so a little larger than a engine but not much and being coachbuilt (wood frame with flimsy aluminum skin) I bet its actually lighter than a engine.
>>  
>>   I don't know that actual contact information but I am sure I can find out and at the rate he is cutting/shaping wood/fitting the skin, I will likely find out very soon anyway.  The price above is to California from Lincoln, UK.
>>  
>>     mike
>>  
>>> On 3/1/21 1:06 PM, Mark Watson wrote:
>>> Ok group.  I might be able to get a rebuilt engine for my 1956 Daimler Regency '104'.  However, it's in England and I need to somehow arrange for its shipping.  And possibly its packing (palletizing, I guess?).
>>>  
>>> Gulp - the prices are mind boggling.
>>>  
>>> Does anyone have any tips or guidance?
>>>  
>>> Know of a reputable company that will handle an engine?
>>>  
>>> It's a 3.5 litre straight six that doesn't skimp on the cast iron.  I don't know weight - I'm going to have to try to weigh one that I have that's a complete short block with head but damaged. 
>>>  
>>> If you're bored enough to look at it here's the ebay link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1950s-Daimler-3-5ltr-6-cylinder-engine/284196165869
>>>  
>>> Thanks,
>>>  
>>> Mark Watson
>>> 1956 Daimler Regency '104' long term restoration project that hopefully this will really kick-start work ;-)
>>>  
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> 
>>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/lists at dinospider.com
>>> 
>>  
>> 
>> -- 
>> A gun is like a parachute, if you need one but don't have it,
>> you'll probably never need one again.
>> _______________________________________________ 
>> 
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
>> Suggested annual donation $12.96 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive 
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/watsonm05 at comcast.net 
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dmscheidt at gmail.com
> 
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From brabel at comcast.net  Thu Mar  4 17:37:16 2021
From: brabel at comcast.net (Bill Rabel)
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2021 16:37:16 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shipping an engine from UK to US
In-Reply-To: <8AAA54A0-01C0-47B6-9A4D-CC7C968F043D@gmail.com>
References: <1671295608.116144.1614777972990@connect.xfinity.com>
 <8AAA54A0-01C0-47B6-9A4D-CC7C968F043D@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A8231E03-E6ED-47C2-8042-620EE827B93A@comcast.net>

I contacted a friend who has shipped cars and motorcycles back and forth across the Atlantic. 
He gave me the following information about a shipper with a very good track record.

Gallagher Transport in Boulder, CO.
720-225 9870
Ask for Yvonne Martinez
Say that she was recommended by Wendy Wychoff (My friend?s daughter).
They will need to know if the engine has already been purchased, and whether tax and duty has been paid.

<https://www.gallaghertransport.com>

I respect my friend?s opinion on such things without reservation.
He said that he would send me their email address.

- Bill Rabel
  Anacortes, WA


> On Mar 3, 2021, at 7:34 AM, David Scheidt <dmscheidt at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> One thing that is very important when shipping an engine freight is packing it properly. It needs to be bolted (at the engine mounts, usually) to solidly built frame, which is bolted to a top quality pallet, and then have a crate built around it.  The crate has to be strong enough to hold whatever the freight company puts on top of it.  
> 
>> On Mar 3, 2021, at 07:27, Mark Watson <watsonm05 at comcast.net> wrote:
>> 
>> ?
>> Wow - you folks are GREAT!  Thanks for the excellent information.
>>  
>> Mike - I'd greatly appreciate the info you offered.
>>  
>> Thanks again - Mark
>>> On 03/01/2021 10:25 PM Mike Rambour <lists at dinospider.com> wrote:
>>>  
>>>  
>>>   I can strongly NOT recommend CFR Rinkens  ( cfrrinkens.com ).   Although they will be the cheapest by throwing your engine in a container with who knows what else...throwing is the correct word and then it will sit on docks for months in random ports.  But they will be cheap and it will arrive only a few months late.
>>>  
>>>   I can find out who the body builder building my cars body is going to use, he has shipped bodies to the U.S. before and will be shipping mine in a few weeks.  He uses them because they do the palletizing and everything.
>>>  
>>>> ?Pack and Send? has come back to me with ball park figures at today?s rates to get the body to you.  This is a door to door service with a tailor made packing case made.
>>>>  
>>>> Sea freight approx. ?2,200
>>>> Air freight approx.  ?4,000
>>> 
>>>  This is for a coachbuilt car body tub, from cowl to rear, so a little larger than a engine but not much and being coachbuilt (wood frame with flimsy aluminum skin) I bet its actually lighter than a engine.
>>>  
>>>   I don't know that actual contact information but I am sure I can find out and at the rate he is cutting/shaping wood/fitting the skin, I will likely find out very soon anyway.  The price above is to California from Lincoln, UK.
>>>  
>>>     mike
>>>  
>>> On 3/1/21 1:06 PM, Mark Watson wrote:
>>>> Ok group.  I might be able to get a rebuilt engine for my 1956 Daimler Regency '104'.  However, it's in England and I need to somehow arrange for its shipping.  And possibly its packing (palletizing, I guess?).
>>>>  
>>>> Gulp - the prices are mind boggling.
>>>>  
>>>> Does anyone have any tips or guidance?
>>>>  
>>>> Know of a reputable company that will handle an engine?
>>>>  
>>>> It's a 3.5 litre straight six that doesn't skimp on the cast iron.  I don't know weight - I'm going to have to try to weigh one that I have that's a complete short block with head but damaged. 
>>>>  
>>>> If you're bored enough to look at it here's the ebay link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1950s-Daimler-3-5ltr-6-cylinder-engine/284196165869 <https://www.ebay.com/itm/1950s-Daimler-3-5ltr-6-cylinder-engine/284196165869>
>>>>  
>>>> Thanks,
>>>>  
>>>> Mark Watson
>>>> 1956 Daimler Regency '104' long term restoration project that hopefully this will really kick-start work ;-)
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> 
>>>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk <http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>>>> 
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/lists at dinospider.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/lists at dinospider.com>
>>>> 
>>>  
>>> -- 
>>> A gun is like a parachute, if you need one but don't have it,
>>> you'll probably never need one again.
>>> _______________________________________________ 
>>> 
>>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net 
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
>>> Suggested annual donation $12.96 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive 
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/watsonm05 at comcast.net 
>>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dmscheidt at gmail.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dmscheidt at gmail.com>
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk <http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/brabel at comcast.net <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/brabel at comcast.net>
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From dhlocker at comcast.net  Thu Mar  4 17:38:12 2021
From: dhlocker at comcast.net (Donald H Locker)
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2021 19:38:12 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] LED circline lamp wiring
Message-ID: <6b554b44-64d2-d85a-a1cc-ce84400ba956@comcast.net>

Hello all shop-talk gurus.

It sure looks to me like the line and neutral wires should go to the
innermost pair of pins on the circline replacement lamp (this is an old
fluorescent magnifying fixture on which the switch died so I decided to
replace switch and use LED -- just because.)

Anyway, here is an ascii-art sketch of the tube connector block

[center of tube circle is up here]


(            )
 \   L   N  /
   | x   x |
   |       |
   | x   x |
    [s] [s]

On the original, the starter switch shorted the two pins marked [s] to
preheat the electrodes and the L and N pins went to the Line and Neutral
(Line was switched; Neutral was permanently attached to the cord.)

The [s] and [s] terminals were on the "outside" of the tube (furthest
from the center) and the L and N pins were closer to the center.

Have I correctly interpreted all this? Anyone know? All my web searches
don't give me any definitive connection diagrams. (The new tube is made
by Feit and is supposed to not use a ballast.)

Thanks in advance, for anything!
Donald.
-- 
*Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
() no proprietary attachments; no html mail
/\ <https://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml>

From patintexas at icloud.com  Fri Mar  5 08:15:17 2021
From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2021 09:15:17 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] LED circline lamp wiring
In-Reply-To: <6b554b44-64d2-d85a-a1cc-ce84400ba956@comcast.net>
References: <6b554b44-64d2-d85a-a1cc-ce84400ba956@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CE4D8644-EB3B-49A1-B36B-9F81FBE348C3@icloud.com>

Donald,

If you haven?t received replies to your question, it might be time to call Feit. 

I have no experience with this lamp. 

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne 
We support Habitat for Humanity


On Mar 4, 2021, at 6:42 PM, Donald H Locker <dhlocker at comcast.net> wrote:

?Hello all shop-talk gurus.

It sure looks to me like the line and neutral wires should go to the
innermost pair of pins on the circline replacement lamp (this is an old
fluorescent magnifying fixture on which the switch died so I decided to
replace switch and use LED -- just because.)

Anyway, here is an ascii-art sketch of the tube connector block

[center of tube circle is up here]


(            )
\   L   N  /
  | x   x |
  |       |
  | x   x |
   [s] [s]

On the original, the starter switch shorted the two pins marked [s] to
preheat the electrodes and the L and N pins went to the Line and Neutral
(Line was switched; Neutral was permanently attached to the cord.)

The [s] and [s] terminals were on the "outside" of the tube (furthest
from the center) and the L and N pins were closer to the center.

Have I correctly interpreted all this? Anyone know? All my web searches
don't give me any definitive connection diagrams. (The new tube is made
by Feit and is supposed to not use a ballast.)

Thanks in advance, for anything!
Donald.
-- 
*Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
() no proprietary attachments; no html mail
/\ <https://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml>
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com


From dirtbeard at gmail.com  Sun Mar  7 11:56:04 2021
From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard)
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2021 10:56:04 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Grease discovery
Message-ID: <CAG1pxgY7AU4aGfFro9t5JvfUqR8kQRVjUAM0yEOfHKJDT_bzmw@mail.gmail.com>

Hi guys,

I just wanted to pass along something that has made a huge difference for
my routine greasing needs, motorcycle chain lube, any kind, but this is
what I have been using:
https://www.chapmoto.com/maxima-chain-wax.html?sku=353-0558&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkejF_eme7wIV-CitBh2m2AmsEAQYBSABEgLF6_D_BwE

or just Google search on cheap motorcycle chain lube.

The ease of application (the spray tube), the ability to penetrate
assembled parts, the water resistance, stickiness, rust prevention, etc.,
really make it handy.

If you can get the tip of the spray tube in contact with the gap/opening,
it will foam into the gap, penetrate/disappear into the space, and stay
there.

I started using it to lubricate the manhole cover seals in my driveway
(they would rust) as it was a lot easier than lifting them off to grease
the seal. (the manhole covers would rust tight into the ring and make it
extremely hard to remove when necessary).

I then realized how well it worked to lube the wheels on my lawnmower
without taking the wheels off. I find that I will lube things more
regularly now because it is so convenient to do so without disassembly.

 It works great for exterior hinges, lubing your vise, control cables,
wheel bearings on the wheelbarrow, etc.

Now I would not use it for high speed wheel bearings or anything like that,
but for anything less intensive than a motorcycle chain and sprocket, I
think you will find that it really works well and is very convenient.

FWIW...

best,

Doug
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From eric at megageek.com  Mon Mar  8 16:07:54 2021
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2021 18:07:54 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Lights bulbs that are 'connected'
Message-ID: <OF4DA0EEA3.BA91FB6D-ON85258692.007EAC33-85258692.007F112C@mail.megageek.com>

Hello all, this might be a stupid question, but are there light bulbs 
(traditional screw in form and size) that are leds and BRIGHT, but also 
maintain an electrical contact when off like an incandescent bulb did?

I have X10 controllers and they work AWESOMELY still.  I love them and I 
don't want to change to anything else right now.

However, the switches rely on a contact across the bulb even when they are 
off.  Are there any modern bulbs (they need not be LED) that fit this 
bill?

Or am I over thinking this an any LED will work?

Thanks in advance.

Moose

"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?
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From jdinnis at gmail.com  Mon Mar  8 17:05:59 2021
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2021 18:05:59 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Lights bulbs that are 'connected'
In-Reply-To: <OF4DA0EEA3.BA91FB6D-ON85258692.007EAC33-85258692.007F112C@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF4DA0EEA3.BA91FB6D-ON85258692.007EAC33-85258692.007F112C@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <CANuE7YB9u7Pgj1cZ38oPTMPju_h6Zce=ForsNy3aaNb_ZroxFg@mail.gmail.com>

My X10 modules worked fine with LED's but not compact fluorescents.  You
may find particular brands of LED's that will work and some that will not.
Unfortunately all my x10 stuff has died out over the years and I have
replaced much of it with insteon.  I am not as much a fan of the insteon
products.  They seem to be reliable enough, but are difficult to interface
to other home automation systems and have an unacceptable failure rate.

On Mon, Mar 8, 2021 at 5:08 PM <eric at megageek.com> wrote:

> Hello all, this might be a stupid question, but are there light bulbs
> (traditional screw in form and size) that are leds and BRIGHT, but also
> maintain an electrical contact when off like an incandescent bulb did?
>
> I have X10 controllers and they work AWESOMELY still.  I love them and I
> don't want to change to anything else right now.
>
> However, the switches rely on a contact across the bulb even when they are
> off.  Are there any modern bulbs (they need not be LED) that fit this bill?
>
> Or am I over thinking this an any LED will work?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Moose
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================
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From markmiller at threeboysfarm.com  Tue Mar  9 16:05:17 2021
From: markmiller at threeboysfarm.com (Mark Miller)
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2021 15:05:17 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Lights bulbs that are 'connected'
In-Reply-To: <mailman.6.1615316402.15011.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.6.1615316402.15011.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <e69283e8-c8f6-4a28-0593-aefab4a5cd62@threeboysfarm.com>

Different bulbs will work differently but almost any dimmable LEDs 
should be fine to use.? Get one and try it.? The non-dimmable ones may 
act strangely with the 'trickle' of connection you get with in line 
control like the x10.

Regards,

Mark Miller   707-490-5834
markmiller at threeboysfarm.com


> Hello all, this might be a stupid question, but are there light bulbs
> (traditional screw in form and size) that are leds and BRIGHT, but also
> maintain an electrical contact when off like an incandescent bulb did?
>
> I have X10 controllers and they work AWESOMELY still.  I love them and I
> don't want to change to anything else right now.
>
> However, the switches rely on a contact across the bulb even when they are
> off.  Are there any modern bulbs (they need not be LED) that fit this
> bill?
>
> Or am I over thinking this an any LED will work?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Moose
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt?

From jem at milleredp.com  Tue Mar  9 19:41:34 2021
From: jem at milleredp.com (jem at milleredp.com)
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2021 18:41:34 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Lights bulbs that are 'connected'
In-Reply-To: <e69283e8-c8f6-4a28-0593-aefab4a5cd62@threeboysfarm.com>
References: <mailman.6.1615316402.15011.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
 <e69283e8-c8f6-4a28-0593-aefab4a5cd62@threeboysfarm.com>
Message-ID: <edfed3f5f6a03195770652be55cc3c73@milleredp.com>

On 2021-03-09 15:05, Mark Miller wrote:
> Different bulbs will work differently but almost any dimmable LEDs
> should be fine to use.? Get one and try it.? The non-dimmable ones may
> act strangely with the 'trickle' of connection you get with in line
> control like the x10.

X10 relies on a very low current.  Many LEDs do as well.  Not always a 
perfect mix.  Yeah, experimentation.

John.

From peterwmurray at gmail.com  Wed Mar 10 12:12:05 2021
From: peterwmurray at gmail.com (Peter Murray)
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2021 14:12:05 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Lights bulbs that are 'connected'
In-Reply-To: <edfed3f5f6a03195770652be55cc3c73@milleredp.com>
References: <mailman.6.1615316402.15011.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
 <e69283e8-c8f6-4a28-0593-aefab4a5cd62@threeboysfarm.com>
 <edfed3f5f6a03195770652be55cc3c73@milleredp.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ8HLP8BPx33G2dfHtpDQDhjQeVMyzOc6ThgCP+4ANhrOVvyJg@mail.gmail.com>

The interesting result I have with dimmable LED lights is that when my
Lutron Maestro dimmers are at 0, I still have a little bit of light. It
makes for a not-unpleasant "nightlight" effect in several bathrooms in the
house, including the Shop!

I too use X10 (all bought in 1999 or so), and am planning to implement Home
Assistant (as a container on my NAS), and need to start picking up some
control hardware. What does this Big Brain Trust recommend? I'm looking for
dusk-to-dawn sensors, controllable light switches (preferably similar in
behavior to my Lutron Maestro switches), telemetry gear (for
temperature/humidity, occupancy, etc). Voice control would be a super
bonus, but I want all of the control to be local, so no Alexa or similar.

-Peter

On Tue, Mar 9, 2021 at 9:46 PM <jem at milleredp.com> wrote:

> On 2021-03-09 15:05, Mark Miller wrote:
> > Different bulbs will work differently but almost any dimmable LEDs
> > should be fine to use.  Get one and try it.  The non-dimmable ones may
> > act strangely with the 'trickle' of connection you get with in line
> > control like the x10.
>
> X10 relies on a very low current.  Many LEDs do as well.  Not always a
> perfect mix.  Yeah, experimentation.
>
> John.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Mar 15 22:29:17 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2021 21:29:17 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] LED Headlamps
Message-ID: <d85272c7-62fb-aa54-643d-fdd7966217dc@comcast.net>

Listers,

After realizing that holding a small flashlight with my teeth was 
probably a bad idea (and painful), I decided I needed a /good/ headband 
flashlight. I have a couple cheap ones, but they never seem to put out 
enough light for working on cars in a dark shop or in the grease pit. I 
see people using them on the tube, and they seem to work, but the two I 
have--both powered by a couple AAAs--aren't even as powerful as the 
cheap flashlights Harbor Freight gives away (which work a couple times 
then quit). After checking the Brazilian river/rainforest and a few 
review sites it seems they are all over the map, from $10/ea to over 
$100! The lumen ratings seem a bit suspicious too, with some Duracell 
brand Costco has on sale for a 3-pack rated at 550ea, and at least some 
claiming over 1,100 (for a few seconds bursts, anyway). Can anyone 
recommend one that actually lasts enough to find the bolt that fell down 
between the block and wheel well, and stays in place on your head?

TIA,
Bob
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From shannahquilts at gmail.com  Mon Mar 15 23:29:10 2021
From: shannahquilts at gmail.com (Shannah Miller)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2021 22:29:10 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] LED Headlamps
In-Reply-To: <d85272c7-62fb-aa54-643d-fdd7966217dc@comcast.net>
References: <d85272c7-62fb-aa54-643d-fdd7966217dc@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAAy7z=0oxzgK7VFtQUw5YcKEKqii=aq+SHn8y5Qx0QwmH0r6Jw@mail.gmail.com>

We use PETZLs and have had really good luck with them.  The
one I frequently use in the studio has lasted for 7 years now, in
spite of being dropped multiple times and having clay smeared
on it.

I think that having adjustability is good, so you might consider
PETZL - ACTIK CORE Headlamp.  They have it at the Brazilian
river store, and probably at regular sporting goods stores, as well.
It has a couple of beam patterns which might be helpful, too.

Shannah

On Mon, Mar 15, 2021 at 9:30 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> After realizing that holding a small flashlight with my teeth was probably
> a bad idea (and painful), I decided I needed a *good* headband
> flashlight. I have a couple cheap ones, but they never seem to put out
> enough light for working on cars in a dark shop or in the grease pit. I see
> people using them on the tube, and they seem to work, but the two I
> have--both powered by a couple AAAs--aren't even as powerful as the cheap
> flashlights Harbor Freight gives away (which work a couple times then
> quit). After checking the Brazilian river/rainforest and a few review sites
> it seems they are all over the map, from $10/ea to over $100! The lumen
> ratings seem a bit suspicious too, with some Duracell brand Costco has on
> sale for a 3-pack rated at 550ea, and at least some claiming over 1,100
> (for a few seconds bursts, anyway). Can anyone recommend one that actually
> lasts enough to find the bolt that fell down between the block and wheel
> well, and stays in place on your head?
>
> TIA,
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shannahquilts at gmail.com
>
>
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From pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com  Tue Mar 16 05:58:59 2021
From: pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com (PJ McGarvey)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2021 11:58:59 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] LED Headlamps
In-Reply-To: <CAAy7z=0oxzgK7VFtQUw5YcKEKqii=aq+SHn8y5Qx0QwmH0r6Jw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <d85272c7-62fb-aa54-643d-fdd7966217dc@comcast.net>,
 <CAAy7z=0oxzgK7VFtQUw5YcKEKqii=aq+SHn8y5Qx0QwmH0r6Jw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DF4PR8401MB0411A6C0EB1DBA90C01C898E9A6B9@DF4PR8401MB0411.NAMPRD84.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>

Petzl is the trusted brand for camping/hiking when you want a reliable headlamp. I have a couple Duracell brand ones that I somehow ended up with, that I use in the garage that are fine. Some of the newer ones use rechargeable batteries vs. AAA batteries.
________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Shannah Miller <shannahquilts at gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2021 1:29 AM
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] LED Headlamps

We use PETZLs and have had really good luck with them.  The
one I frequently use in the studio has lasted for 7 years now, in
spite of being dropped multiple times and having clay smeared
on it.

I think that having adjustability is good, so you might consider
PETZL - ACTIK CORE Headlamp.  They have it at the Brazilian
river store, and probably at regular sporting goods stores, as well.
It has a couple of beam patterns which might be helpful, too.

Shannah

On Mon, Mar 15, 2021 at 9:30 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net<mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
Listers,

After realizing that holding a small flashlight with my teeth was probably a bad idea (and painful), I decided I needed a good headband flashlight. I have a couple cheap ones, but they never seem to put out enough light for working on cars in a dark shop or in the grease pit. I see people using them on the tube, and they seem to work, but the two I have--both powered by a couple AAAs--aren't even as powerful as the cheap flashlights Harbor Freight gives away (which work a couple times then quit). After checking the Brazilian river/rainforest and a few review sites it seems they are all over the map, from $10/ea to over $100! The lumen ratings seem a bit suspicious too, with some Duracell brand Costco has on sale for a 3-pack rated at 550ea, and at least some claiming over 1,100 (for a few seconds bursts, anyway). Can anyone recommend one that actually lasts enough to find the bolt that fell down between the block and wheel well, and stays in place on your head?

TIA,
Bob
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net<mailto:Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shannahquilts at gmail.com

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From eric at megageek.com  Tue Mar 16 09:16:44 2021
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2021 11:16:44 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] LED Headlamps
In-Reply-To: <CAAy7z=0oxzgK7VFtQUw5YcKEKqii=aq+SHn8y5Qx0QwmH0r6Jw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <d85272c7-62fb-aa54-643d-fdd7966217dc@comcast.net>
 <CAAy7z=0oxzgK7VFtQUw5YcKEKqii=aq+SHn8y5Qx0QwmH0r6Jw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <OF2921AE68.7ECBAA77-ON8525869A.0053AA75-8525869A.0053EF21@mail.megageek.com>

Don't know how long it will last outside of the water, but I got this 
one...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CRQ5HPN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For diving.  As a rescue diver, I need durable, but kinda cheap as they 
can get smashed and lost easily.

But the first time I used it was in Belize on a night dive.

The people on the boat could follow my dive from the surface it was so 
bright.  I actually turned it off a few times as all the fish kept 
following me.

FWIW.


"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?
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From shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org  Tue Mar 16 09:22:19 2021
From: shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org (Ian McFetridge)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2021 11:22:19 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] LED Headlamps
In-Reply-To: <d85272c7-62fb-aa54-643d-fdd7966217dc@comcast.net>
References: <d85272c7-62fb-aa54-643d-fdd7966217dc@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAFnfnRU=bNoumtMbJnt1gcu1pZvOgyiyXDC_eYb7qXS=M-M+-A@mail.gmail.com>

I've had a version of this one since 2017; it's bright enough for me to run
trails in complete darkness.  It has its own rechargeable battery pack and
is very bright (there's a higher priced model that is 5000 lumens).

https://www.amazon.com/Headlamp-Headlamps-Rechargeable-Waterproof-Flashlight/dp/B07WDNCNTH/ref=sr_1_6?crid=KUVLHQFINQPE&dchild=1&keywords=grde+headlamp&qid=1615907906&sprefix=grde+%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-6



On Tue, Mar 16, 2021 at 12:30 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> After realizing that holding a small flashlight with my teeth was probably
> a bad idea (and painful), I decided I needed a *good* headband
> flashlight. I have a couple cheap ones, but they never seem to put out
> enough light for working on cars in a dark shop or in the grease pit. I see
> people using them on the tube, and they seem to work, but the two I
> have--both powered by a couple AAAs--aren't even as powerful as the cheap
> flashlights Harbor Freight gives away (which work a couple times then
> quit). After checking the Brazilian river/rainforest and a few review sites
> it seems they are all over the map, from $10/ea to over $100! The lumen
> ratings seem a bit suspicious too, with some Duracell brand Costco has on
> sale for a 3-pack rated at 550ea, and at least some claiming over 1,100
> (for a few seconds bursts, anyway). Can anyone recommend one that actually
> lasts enough to find the bolt that fell down between the block and wheel
> well, and stays in place on your head?
>
> TIA,
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Mar 16 09:33:02 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2021 08:33:02 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] LED Headlamps
In-Reply-To: <CAFnfnRU=bNoumtMbJnt1gcu1pZvOgyiyXDC_eYb7qXS=M-M+-A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <d85272c7-62fb-aa54-643d-fdd7966217dc@comcast.net>
 <CAFnfnRU=bNoumtMbJnt1gcu1pZvOgyiyXDC_eYb7qXS=M-M+-A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <036d7e8b-af17-de01-eb2b-eb59ec49926d@comcast.net>

Thanks, Ian. It says 'hard hat light,' do you (have to) wear it with one?

On 3/16/2021 8:22 AM, Ian McFetridge wrote:
> I've had a version of this one since 2017; it's bright enough for me 
> to run trails in complete darkness.? It has its own 
> rechargeable?battery pack and is very bright (there's a higher priced 
> model that is 5000 lumens).
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Headlamp-Headlamps-Rechargeable-Waterproof-Flashlight/dp/B07WDNCNTH/ref=sr_1_6?crid=KUVLHQFINQPE&dchild=1&keywords=grde+headlamp&qid=1615907906&sprefix=grde+%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-6 
> <https://www.amazon.com/Headlamp-Headlamps-Rechargeable-Waterproof-Flashlight/dp/B07WDNCNTH/ref=sr_1_6?crid=KUVLHQFINQPE&dchild=1&keywords=grde+headlamp&qid=1615907906&sprefix=grde+%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-6>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 16, 2021 at 12:30 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     Listers,
>
>     After realizing that holding a small flashlight with my teeth was
>     probably a bad idea (and painful), I decided I needed a /good/
>     headband flashlight. I have a couple cheap ones, but they never
>     seem to put out enough light for working on cars in a dark shop or
>     in the grease pit. I see people using them on the tube, and they
>     seem to work, but the two I have--both powered by a couple
>     AAAs--aren't even as powerful as the cheap flashlights Harbor
>     Freight gives away (which work a couple times then quit). After
>     checking the Brazilian river/rainforest and a few review sites it
>     seems they are all over the map, from $10/ea to over $100! The
>     lumen ratings seem a bit suspicious too, with some Duracell brand
>     Costco has on sale for a 3-pack rated at 550ea, and at least some
>     claiming over 1,100 (for a few seconds bursts, anyway). Can anyone
>     recommend one that actually lasts enough to find the bolt that
>     fell down between the block and wheel well, and stays in place on
>     your head?
>
>     TIA,
>     Bob
>     _______________________________________________
>
>     Shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.96
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>     <http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk>
>     http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org
>     <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org>
>

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From shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org  Tue Mar 16 09:38:13 2021
From: shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org (Ian McFetridge)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2021 11:38:13 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] LED Headlamps
In-Reply-To: <036d7e8b-af17-de01-eb2b-eb59ec49926d@comcast.net>
References: <d85272c7-62fb-aa54-643d-fdd7966217dc@comcast.net>
 <CAFnfnRU=bNoumtMbJnt1gcu1pZvOgyiyXDC_eYb7qXS=M-M+-A@mail.gmail.com>
 <036d7e8b-af17-de01-eb2b-eb59ec49926d@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAFnfnRX4huaK+nct5BByF_a8uk43vC4VwAw+NNFnpLshF-o-MQ@mail.gmail.com>

I've never worn it on a hat, just my head, but I have been told I have a
hard head.  :)

On Tue, Mar 16, 2021 at 11:33 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Thanks, Ian. It says 'hard hat light,' do you (have to) wear it with one?
>
> On 3/16/2021 8:22 AM, Ian McFetridge wrote:
>
> I've had a version of this one since 2017; it's bright enough for me to
> run trails in complete darkness.  It has its own rechargeable battery pack
> and is very bright (there's a higher priced model that is 5000 lumens).
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Headlamp-Headlamps-Rechargeable-Waterproof-Flashlight/dp/B07WDNCNTH/ref=sr_1_6?crid=KUVLHQFINQPE&dchild=1&keywords=grde+headlamp&qid=1615907906&sprefix=grde+%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-6
>
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 16, 2021 at 12:30 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Listers,
>>
>> After realizing that holding a small flashlight with my teeth was
>> probably a bad idea (and painful), I decided I needed a *good* headband
>> flashlight. I have a couple cheap ones, but they never seem to put out
>> enough light for working on cars in a dark shop or in the grease pit. I see
>> people using them on the tube, and they seem to work, but the two I
>> have--both powered by a couple AAAs--aren't even as powerful as the cheap
>> flashlights Harbor Freight gives away (which work a couple times then
>> quit). After checking the Brazilian river/rainforest and a few review sites
>> it seems they are all over the map, from $10/ea to over $100! The lumen
>> ratings seem a bit suspicious too, with some Duracell brand Costco has on
>> sale for a 3-pack rated at 550ea, and at least some claiming over 1,100
>> (for a few seconds bursts, anyway). Can anyone recommend one that actually
>> lasts enough to find the bolt that fell down between the block and wheel
>> well, and stays in place on your head?
>>
>> TIA,
>> Bob
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org
>>
>>
>
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From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Tue Mar 16 10:19:39 2021
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2021 11:19:39 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] LED Headlamps
In-Reply-To: <d85272c7-62fb-aa54-643d-fdd7966217dc@comcast.net>
References: <d85272c7-62fb-aa54-643d-fdd7966217dc@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <2FCCF138-4CDA-4E0B-8429-0561F92DA0C5@gmail.com>



> On Mar 15, 2021, at 23:30, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> ? Listers,
> 
> After realizing that holding a small flashlight with my teeth was probably a bad idea (and painful), I decided I needed a good headband flashlight. I have a couple cheap ones, but they never seem to put out enough light for working on cars in a dark shop or in the grease pit. I see people using them on the tube, and they seem to work, but the two I have--both powered by a couple AAAs--aren't even as powerful as the cheap flashlights Harbor Freight gives away (which work a couple times then quit).
> 

I have a couple cheap ones I bought at Home Depot, from the Father?s Day special stuff at the front oy the store.  They have lasted several years, but of course, have never been available since. 

My opinion about headlamps in the shop and for home improvement stuff is that about 150 lumens is enough, more than that, you blind yourself with reflection and glare.  You also want a pretty floody b?am spread, because it makes it easier t w on stuff you can?t quite see straight on. I also o strongly prefer lights that split the battery from the light. They are more comfortable, stay on better, and don?t stick out as far, so you don?t hit them on stuff.  I also prefer regular batteries, because you can carry spares, and don?t need a special charger. (I use NiMh cells, not throwaway ones).   

This is a different use case than what campers or divers or trail runners want, which is something to watch out for.  
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Mar 16 10:57:23 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2021 09:57:23 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] LED Headlamps
In-Reply-To: <2FCCF138-4CDA-4E0B-8429-0561F92DA0C5@gmail.com>
References: <d85272c7-62fb-aa54-643d-fdd7966217dc@comcast.net>
 <2FCCF138-4CDA-4E0B-8429-0561F92DA0C5@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <f95e7f43-36bc-0aa2-c7a5-be8c4878718c@comcast.net>

That is a good point(s). A lot of the descriptions seemed slanted 
towards running in the dark--I don't do that, unless someone's chasing 
me--and doing realistic things in a shop is kind of an afterthought.

I tried using what appears to be a decent-quality headset--brand 
unknown--but there just wasn't enough illumination when I was in the 
grease pit looking for a socket and extension I'd dropped into the 
engine bay. I had to resort to using a small (2AA) LED flashlight, which 
was the right amount of light but, obviously, wasn't convenient to use 
when I found the socket and needed two hands to retrieve it. Glare isn't 
a huge issue looking into an engine bay; at least, on my mostly stock 
cars without chrome everything.


On 3/16/2021 9:19 AM, David Scheidt wrote:
>
>
>> On Mar 15, 2021, at 23:30, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>> ? Listers,
>>
>> After realizing that holding a small flashlight with my teeth was 
>> probably a bad idea (and painful), I decided I needed a /good/ 
>> headband flashlight. I have a couple cheap ones, but they never seem 
>> to put out enough light for working on cars in a dark shop or in the 
>> grease pit. I see people using them on the tube, and they seem to 
>> work, but the two I have--both powered by a couple AAAs--aren't even 
>> as powerful as the cheap flashlights Harbor Freight gives away (which 
>> work a couple times then quit).
>>
>
> I have a couple cheap ones I bought at Home Depot, from the Father?s 
> Day special stuff at the front oy the store. ?They have lasted several 
> years, but of course, have never been available since.
>
> My opinion about headlamps in the shop and for home improvement stuff 
> is that about 150 lumens is enough, more than that, you blind yourself 
> with reflection and glare. ?You also want a pretty floody b?am spread, 
> because it makes it easier t w on stuff you can?t quite see straight 
> on. I also o strongly prefer lights that split the battery from the 
> light. They are more comfortable, stay on better, and don?t stick out 
> as far, so you don?t hit them on stuff. ?I also prefer regular 
> batteries, because you can carry spares, and don?t need a special 
> charger. (I use NiMh cells, not throwaway ones).
>
> This is a different use case than what campers or divers or trail 
> runners want, which is something to watch out for.

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From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Tue Mar 16 11:05:19 2021
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2021 12:05:19 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] LED Headlamps
In-Reply-To: <f95e7f43-36bc-0aa2-c7a5-be8c4878718c@comcast.net>
References: <f95e7f43-36bc-0aa2-c7a5-be8c4878718c@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <5BB80DAD-29C4-4809-BCAE-F13491883708@gmail.com>

One other thing: most headsets using regular batteries are unregulated. They will continue to put out light way past the point the batteries would be dead in another application. It won?t be much light, but it is still on. Try it with fresh batteries.  I run into this myself from time to time, and I know it happens, because it happens gradually. 

> On Mar 16, 2021, at 11:57, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> ? That is a good point(s). A lot of the descriptions seemed slanted towards running in the dark--I don't do that, unless someone's chasing me--and doing realistic things in a shop is kind of an afterthought.
> I tried using what appears to be a decent-quality headset--brand unknown--but there just wasn't enough illumination when I was in the grease pit looking for a socket and extension I'd dropped into the engine bay. I had to resort to using a small (2AA) LED flashlight, which was the right amount of light but, obviously, wasn't convenient to use when I found the socket and needed two hands to retrieve it. Glare isn't a huge issue looking into an engine bay; at least, on my mostly stock cars without chrome everything.
> 
> 
> On 3/16/2021 9:19 AM, David Scheidt wrote:
>> 
>> 
>>> On Mar 15, 2021, at 23:30, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>>> 
>>> ? Listers,
>>> 
>>> After realizing that holding a small flashlight with my teeth was probably a bad idea (and painful), I decided I needed a good headband flashlight. I have a couple cheap ones, but they never seem to put out enough light for working on cars in a dark shop or in the grease pit. I see people using them on the tube, and they seem to work, but the two I have--both powered by a couple AAAs--aren't even as powerful as the cheap flashlights Harbor Freight gives away (which work a couple times then quit).
>>> 
>> 
>> I have a couple cheap ones I bought at Home Depot, from the Father?s Day special stuff at the front oy the store.  They have lasted several years, but of course, have never been available since. 
>> 
>> My opinion about headlamps in the shop and for home improvement stuff is that about 150 lumens is enough, more than that, you blind yourself with reflection and glare.  You also want a pretty floody b?am spread, because it makes it easier t w on stuff you can?t quite see straight on. I also o strongly prefer lights that split the battery from the light. They are more comfortable, stay on better, and don?t stick out as far, so you don?t hit them on stuff.  I also prefer regular batteries, because you can carry spares, and don?t need a special charger. (I use NiMh cells, not throwaway ones).   
>> 
>> This is a different use case than what campers or divers or trail runners want, which is something to watch out for.  
> 
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From ejrussell61 at gmail.com  Tue Mar 16 11:35:14 2021
From: ejrussell61 at gmail.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2021 13:35:14 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] LED Headlamps
In-Reply-To: <5BB80DAD-29C4-4809-BCAE-F13491883708@gmail.com>
References: <f95e7f43-36bc-0aa2-c7a5-be8c4878718c@comcast.net>
 <5BB80DAD-29C4-4809-BCAE-F13491883708@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAP7dBXCotY9pbRUjpDs--x3o0_FetG9vACiYuiPAQtZBXTTMTA@mail.gmail.com>

Sorry, I can't help but be reminded of the Hazard Fraught 'Moron Lamp'...

https://imgur.com/gallery/JcG3B


On Tue, Mar 16, 2021 at 1:06 PM David Scheidt <dmscheidt at gmail.com> wrote:

> One other thing: most headsets using regular batteries are unregulated.
> They will continue to put out light way past the point the batteries would
> be dead in another application. It won?t be much light, but it is still on.
> Try it with fresh batteries.  I run into this myself from time to time, and
> I know it happens, because it happens gradually.
>
> On Mar 16, 2021, at 11:57, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> ? That is a good point(s). A lot of the descriptions seemed slanted
> towards running in the dark--I don't do that, unless someone's chasing
> me--and doing realistic things in a shop is kind of an afterthought.
> I tried using what appears to be a decent-quality headset--brand
> unknown--but there just wasn't enough illumination when I was in the grease
> pit looking for a socket and extension I'd dropped into the engine bay. I
> had to resort to using a small (2AA) LED flashlight, which was the right
> amount of light but, obviously, wasn't convenient to use when I found the
> socket and needed two hands to retrieve it. Glare isn't a huge issue
> looking into an engine bay; at least, on my mostly stock cars without
> chrome everything.
>
>
> On 3/16/2021 9:19 AM, David Scheidt wrote:
>
>
>
> On Mar 15, 2021, at 23:30, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> ? Listers,
>
> After realizing that holding a small flashlight with my teeth was probably
> a bad idea (and painful), I decided I needed a *good* headband
> flashlight. I have a couple cheap ones, but they never seem to put out
> enough light for working on cars in a dark shop or in the grease pit. I see
> people using them on the tube, and they seem to work, but the two I
> have--both powered by a couple AAAs--aren't even as powerful as the cheap
> flashlights Harbor Freight gives away (which work a couple times then quit).
>
>
>
> I have a couple cheap ones I bought at Home Depot, from the Father?s Day
> special stuff at the front oy the store.  They have lasted several years,
> but of course, have never been available since.
>
> My opinion about headlamps in the shop and for home improvement stuff is
> that about 150 lumens is enough, more than that, you blind yourself with
> reflection and glare.  You also want a pretty floody b?am spread, because
> it makes it easier t w on stuff you can?t quite see straight on. I also o
> strongly prefer lights that split the battery from the light. They are more
> comfortable, stay on better, and don?t stick out as far, so you don?t hit
> them on stuff.  I also prefer regular batteries, because you can carry
> spares, and don?t need a special charger. (I use NiMh cells, not throwaway
> ones).
>
> This is a different use case than what campers or divers or trail runners
> want, which is something to watch out for.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ejrussell61 at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
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From bk13 at earthlink.net  Tue Mar 16 23:37:12 2021
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2021 22:37:12 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] LED Headlamps
In-Reply-To: <d85272c7-62fb-aa54-643d-fdd7966217dc@comcast.net>
References: <d85272c7-62fb-aa54-643d-fdd7966217dc@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <094874cd-b240-ed89-3b2d-a4e643737570@earthlink.net>

I like the LED headlamps and have two, but don't find current listings 
for either.? One made by Defiant was a special buy of the day at 
HomeDepot.com for $14 several years ago.? It has a regular setting and a 
bright setting if you press and hold the button.? IN addition to the 
strap around your head, it has a strap over the top of your head.? I 
find this helpful when sweating as the light doesn't shift.

My second light is from Coast.? The white LEDs have three settings. It 
also has red LEDs for night vision.? It is smaller and lighter than the 
Defiant.? It is also tough to remember which button is the white light 
and which is the red.? Search "Coast headlamp" at the orange box.? Mine 
is similar to this one:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Coast-FL65-400-Lumen-Dual-Color-LED-Headlamp-FL65/301698008

Both seem fine for under the house or up in the attic, though I have no 
clue as to their actual lumen rating.

I saw the three pack at Costco.? If I didn't have two already, I would 
have been tempted, though I've also been disappointed as I don't think 
the Costco tool/shop buyers are actually tool people and quality can be 
lacking at times.? With Costco's return policy, you can always try their 
product and bring it back if you don't like it.? Give the 4.7/5 star 
rating with 468 reviews, it is may be a decent option.

https://www.costco.com/duracell-550-lumen-3-pack-headlamp.product.100681259.html

Brian

On 3/15/2021 9:29 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> Listers,
>
> After realizing that holding a small flashlight with my teeth was 
> probably a bad idea (and painful), I decided I needed a /good/ 
> headband flashlight. I have a couple cheap ones, but they never seem 
> to put out enough light for working on cars in a dark shop or in the 
> grease pit. I see people using them on the tube, and they seem to 
> work, but the two I have--both powered by a couple AAAs--aren't even 
> as powerful as the cheap flashlights Harbor Freight gives away (which 
> work a couple times then quit). After checking the Brazilian 
> river/rainforest and a few review sites it seems they are all over the 
> map, from $10/ea to over $100! The lumen ratings seem a bit suspicious 
> too, with some Duracell brand Costco has on sale for a 3-pack rated at 
> 550ea, and at least some claiming over 1,100 (for a few seconds 
> bursts, anyway). Can anyone recommend one that actually lasts enough 
> to find the bolt that fell down between the block and wheel well, and 
> stays in place on your head?
>
> TIA,
> Bob
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net
>

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From rbeels at yahoo.com  Wed Mar 17 02:06:56 2021
From: rbeels at yahoo.com (Richard Beels)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2021 04:06:56 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] LED Headlamps
In-Reply-To: <d85272c7-62fb-aa54-643d-fdd7966217dc@comcast.net>
References: <d85272c7-62fb-aa54-643d-fdd7966217dc@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.46.1615968428.2736.shop-talk@autox.team.net>


I've had many headlamps over the past decade or so.  My current setup 
is Coast.  I've had the one Brian posted about - at least I think I 
have because Coast doesn't mark the product number on them 
anywhere.  And believe me, I looked when I wanted another one a few weeks ago.

Anyway, get these instead: 
https://coastportland.com/products/fl84-2-pack  It's a pair of the 
new version of that headlamp for $35.  "COAST20" is their near 
continuous 20% code.  I got them last week and they're great.  The 
button is an improvement over the old style -  more defined 
click.  The twist knob switches from spot to flood easily and without 
a 'hot spot'.  The only downside for me is that you have to click 
through all 3 settings to get to off.  Most lights will lock the 
level after a few seconds so that the next press goes directly to 
off.  I wrote a "W" and an "R" on the buttons in Sharpie and after 
glancing at them a few (hundred! ) times, I now know the buttons by 
heart.  :)   It uses 3 AAA batteries instead of a rechargeable, yeah, 
normal batteries, boo having to open the lid and swap in cells.  3 
spare batteries are cheaper than an extra headlamp to keep on hand 
when it starts to dim so I live with it.   The headband isn't 
siliconized, so if you put it on a hardhat, you'll need to use clips, 
which they include.  Now that I've bought another pair, they'll 
probably do siliconized headbands for Christmas this year.   Anyway, 
great little lights.  Can't go wrong.



At 03/16/2021 at 00:29, Shakespearean monkeys danced on Bob Spidell's 
keyboard and said:
>Listers,
>
>After realizing that holding a small flashlight with my teeth was 
>probably a bad idea (and painful), I decided I needed a good 
>headband flashlight. I have a couple cheap ones, but they never seem 
>to put out enough light for working on cars in a dark shop or in the 
>grease pit. I see people using them on the tube, and they seem to 
>work, but the two I have--both powered by a couple AAAs--aren't even 
>as powerful as the cheap flashlights Harbor Freight gives away 
>(which work a couple times then quit). After checking the Brazilian 
>river/rainforest and a few review sites it seems they are all over 
>the map, from $10/ea to over $100! The lumen ratings seem a bit 
>suspicious too, with some Duracell brand Costco has on sale for a 
>3-pack rated at 550ea, and at least some claiming over 1,100 (for a 
>few seconds bursts, anyway). Can anyone recommend one that actually 
>lasts enough to find the bolt that fell down between the block and 
>wheel well, and stays in place on your head?
>
>TIA,
>Bob


Cheers!


From fishplate at gmail.com  Wed Mar 17 04:39:29 2021
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2021 06:39:29 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] LED Headlamps
In-Reply-To: <20210317080939.DD58DA0F09@autox.team.net>
References: <d85272c7-62fb-aa54-643d-fdd7966217dc@comcast.net>
 <20210317080939.DD58DA0F09@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7COOtvoEf8AwLXexVBxQo=qMZMsRfwbAWPGBVgAoGz-0fA@mail.gmail.com>

I've used this Coast headlamp for years.  Bought several for work and found
them very useful, so I bought several for home.  I only had one failure,
which may have been my fault.

https://www.amazon.com/HL5-Utility-Headlamp-Adjustment-Compatibility/dp/B007ED3JWM


On Wed, Mar 17, 2021, 04:09 Richard Beels <rbeels at yahoo.com> wrote:

>
> I've had many headlamps over the past decade or so.  My current setup
> is Coast.  I've had the one Brian posted about - at least I think I
> have because Coast doesn't mark the product number on them
> anywhere.  And believe me, I looked when I wanted another one a few weeks
> ago.
>
> Anyway, get these instead:
> https://coastportland.com/products/fl84-2-pack  It's a pair of the
> new version of that headlamp for $35.  "COAST20" is their near
> continuous 20% code.  I got them last week and they're great.  The
> button is an improvement over the old style -  more defined
> click.  The twist knob switches from spot to flood easily and without
> a 'hot spot'.  The only downside for me is that you have to click
> through all 3 settings to get to off.  Most lights will lock the
> level after a few seconds so that the next press goes directly to
> off.  I wrote a "W" and an "R" on the buttons in Sharpie and after
> glancing at them a few (hundred! ) times, I now know the buttons by
> heart.  :)   It uses 3 AAA batteries instead of a rechargeable, yeah,
> normal batteries, boo having to open the lid and swap in cells.  3
> spare batteries are cheaper than an extra headlamp to keep on hand
> when it starts to dim so I live with it.   The headband isn't
> siliconized, so if you put it on a hardhat, you'll need to use clips,
> which they include.  Now that I've bought another pair, they'll
> probably do siliconized headbands for Christmas this year.   Anyway,
> great little lights.  Can't go wrong.
>
>
>
> At 03/16/2021 at 00:29, Shakespearean monkeys danced on Bob Spidell's
> keyboard and said:
> >Listers,
> >
> >After realizing that holding a small flashlight with my teeth was
> >probably a bad idea (and painful), I decided I needed a good
> >headband flashlight. I have a couple cheap ones, but they never seem
> >to put out enough light for working on cars in a dark shop or in the
> >grease pit. I see people using them on the tube, and they seem to
> >work, but the two I have--both powered by a couple AAAs--aren't even
> >as powerful as the cheap flashlights Harbor Freight gives away
> >(which work a couple times then quit). After checking the Brazilian
> >river/rainforest and a few review sites it seems they are all over
> >the map, from $10/ea to over $100! The lumen ratings seem a bit
> >suspicious too, with some Duracell brand Costco has on sale for a
> >3-pack rated at 550ea, and at least some claiming over 1,100 (for a
> >few seconds bursts, anyway). Can anyone recommend one that actually
> >lasts enough to find the bolt that fell down between the block and
> >wheel well, and stays in place on your head?
> >
> >TIA,
> >Bob
>
>
> Cheers!
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate at gmail.com
>
>
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From shop at dillen.ca  Wed Mar 17 06:59:54 2021
From: shop at dillen.ca (Steve Dillen)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2021 05:59:54 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] LED Headlamps
In-Reply-To: <d85272c7-62fb-aa54-643d-fdd7966217dc@comcast.net>
References: <d85272c7-62fb-aa54-643d-fdd7966217dc@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <7a421fa7-b8c4-f40c-9bab-f79b9a91bdfe@dillen.ca>

I've had marginal success from the "duracel" or "energizer" branded 
lamps that take 4x AA batteries.? I keep one of those relatively cheap 
units in each of my cars...they are inexpensive enough that I don't care 
if they get abused.? I gave up completely on the $10 ones and tossed 
them in the recycle bin as they were way too frustrating to use.

I have had excellent success with my Black Diamond "storm" and "icon" 
lamps...they are my go-to units for anything outdoors. They do have dim 
modes, so when I want to "reach out and see something", I turn them up, 
but for regular work, the dim floodlight settings work great.? If I 
recall correctly, these units turn on in the last used setting, so I 
don't have to cycle through blinding/strobe settings each time I turn 
them on.? I expect Pretzl units are all excellent as well.

IMO, the outdoor specialty lamps are much better than the typical 
hardware store/costco units.

Steve


On 2021-03-15 9:29 p.m., Bob Spidell wrote:
> Listers,
>
> After realizing that holding a small flashlight with my teeth was 
> probably a bad idea (and painful), I decided I needed a /good/ 
> headband flashlight. I have a couple cheap ones, but they never seem 
> to put out enough light for working on cars in a dark shop or in the 
> grease pit. I see people using them on the tube, and they seem to 
> work, but the two I have--both powered by a couple AAAs--aren't even 
> as powerful as the cheap flashlights Harbor Freight gives away (which 
> work a couple times then quit). After checking the Brazilian 
> river/rainforest and a few review sites it seems they are all over the 
> map, from $10/ea to over $100! The lumen ratings seem a bit suspicious 
> too, with some Duracell brand Costco has on sale for a 3-pack rated at 
> 550ea, and at least some claiming over 1,100 (for a few seconds 
> bursts, anyway). Can anyone recommend one that actually lasts enough 
> to find the bolt that fell down between the block and wheel well, and 
> stays in place on your head?
>
> TIA,
> Bob
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shop at dillen.ca
>
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From mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org  Fri Mar 19 15:48:18 2021
From: mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org (Jimmie Mayfield)
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2021 17:48:18 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] A tale of two battery charger/maintainers
Message-ID: <5970aaa3-6fde-4a64-9d8c-c93634d789c0@sackheads.org>

I have a pair of 12V battery charger/maintainers/desulfators:? a Battery 
Minder 12248 (2/4/8A) that I've had for maybe 15 years and a Ctek 
MXS-5.0 (~4A) that I bought last year so that I could keep both of our 
vehicles charged during last year's COVID lockdowns. Both are 
temperature-compensating (lower temps = higher charge voltage).

The Battery Minder's charge profile seems to be this: Bulk-charge at the 
preset current until voltages reaches around 14.5V.? Then it holds the 
voltage constant and continues charging until current drops to around 
10% of the initial current (so 0.4A if you started at 4A).? Then the 
charger switches to float mode at around 13.6V and the current tends to 
oscillate between 0.17A and 0.23A.

The Ctek is similar except that when it switches to float charge, its 
float voltage is 13.1V and 0.2A for the first 24 hours then it switches 
to around 13.6V, also around 0.2A (rock steady, no oscillation).

Both chargers seem to work based on my meters but on a whim I decided to 
try both chargers head-to-head and discovered that the battery behavior 
after disconnecting the charger is different.

My test involved connecting a charger to my truck battery until it 
switched to 13.6V float mode and then staying on float for 12-18 hours.? 
Disconnecting the charger and driving 30 minutes including one engine 
stop/start along the way.? When I got home, I'd check the battery 
voltage with my meter.? Over the past couple months, I've repeated the 
test 4 times with each charger.? (Since the Ctek charger floats at 13.1V 
for the first 24 hours, this meant that I had to let the truck sit for a 
day and a half in order for it to float at 13.6V for half a day.)

For times when Battery Minder was used, the Vbat upon returning home 
ranged between 13.2 - 13.5V.? For the Ctek, the Vbat was never above 
13.1V and twice it was 12.7V.? It's worth noting at this point that when 
driving my truck's alternator varies between 13.2V and 13.8V according 
to my ODB2 scanner.? So it's not surprising that the battery would show 
 > 13V immediately after cutting the engine.

This behavior seems to be very repeatable.

If the alternator was going flaky, I wouldn't expect the weirdness to be 
limited to when the Ctek charger was used.? The main difference between 
the charging profiles is the Ctek floats at 13.1V for 24 hours before 
switching to 13.6V.? Since the battery floated at 13.6V for at least 
half a day using either charger, though, I'm a little surprised it made 
a difference.? But apparently so?

My question is: Why?? What's going on here?


J


From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Mar 23 16:41:07 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2021 15:41:07 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Brake Tubing
Message-ID: <c0970317-a900-5be4-de45-e1e0fae3f3be@comcast.net>

A while back, I bought some 3/16" brake pipe from Amazon. The best offer 
was for galvanized pipe, so I bought it. Now, I'm wondering if 
galvanized is a bad idea, though I can't say why (presumably it helps 
prevent surface rust). Anybody used it, or know of any issues with it?

bob

From jem at milleredp.com  Tue Mar 23 16:52:45 2021
From: jem at milleredp.com (jem at milleredp.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2021 15:52:45 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Brake Tubing
In-Reply-To: <c0970317-a900-5be4-de45-e1e0fae3f3be@comcast.net>
References: <c0970317-a900-5be4-de45-e1e0fae3f3be@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <c4354693fbdd688f497b62f74d4fb354@milleredp.com>

I always use the copper/nickel stuff.   Galvanized?  Unusual.

Johh.

On 2021-03-23 15:41, Bob Spidell wrote:
> A while back, I bought some 3/16" brake pipe from Amazon. The best
> offer was for galvanized pipe, so I bought it. Now, I'm wondering if
> galvanized is a bad idea, though I can't say why (presumably it helps
> prevent surface rust). Anybody used it, or know of any issues with it?
> 
> bob
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jem at milleredp.com

From patintexas at icloud.com  Tue Mar 23 16:57:31 2021
From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2021 17:57:31 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Brake Tubing
In-Reply-To: <c4354693fbdd688f497b62f74d4fb354@milleredp.com>
References: <c4354693fbdd688f497b62f74d4fb354@milleredp.com>
Message-ID: <4937EB16-BF16-4F7F-A696-3339AC90643E@icloud.com>

Never heard of galvanized brake line but I don?t think I?d use it. I know that galvanized pipe is not used to plumb natural gas lines because the galvanizing can flake off, and that?s on rigid pipe. 

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne 
We support Habitat for Humanity


On Mar 23, 2021, at 5:53 PM, jem at milleredp.com wrote:

?I always use the copper/nickel stuff.   Galvanized?  Unusual.

Johh.

On 2021-03-23 15:41, Bob Spidell wrote:
> A while back, I bought some 3/16" brake pipe from Amazon. The best
> offer was for galvanized pipe, so I bought it. Now, I'm wondering if
> galvanized is a bad idea, though I can't say why (presumably it helps
> prevent surface rust). Anybody used it, or know of any issues with it?
> bob
> _______________________________________________
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jem at milleredp.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com


From eric at megageek.com  Wed Mar 24 07:00:19 2021
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2021 09:00:19 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Looking for solution to vehicle camera problem
Message-ID: <OF05354404.A599F1B9-ON852586A2.0046CA3F-852586A2.004771AE@mail.megageek.com>

OK, here is a weird one.

Ideally, I need a vehicle backup camera, with a COMPLETELY wireless camera 
(meaning it's battery operated.)

Here is the application.  I have a front end loader with a rotating set of 
forks.  I need a camera that sits to the side of this so I can see the 
forks as I load the pallets on.

I've been using a wired camera, but I need to have so much slack in the 
cable between the loader and the forks as they move in multiple directions 
from the mounting point.

Here is a video of the forks in action.
https://youtu.be/6FRdkdKdjyY 

Most battery operated cameras are meant for home based systems. 

Any ideas?

Any other solutions?

Thanks.

Moose

"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?
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From patintexas at icloud.com  Wed Mar 24 07:18:00 2021
From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2021 08:18:00 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Looking for solution to vehicle camera problem
In-Reply-To: <OF05354404.A599F1B9-ON852586A2.0046CA3F-852586A2.004771AE@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF05354404.A599F1B9-ON852586A2.0046CA3F-852586A2.004771AE@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <BEBEE041-09AB-4FD5-8CEA-93990D5F9406@icloud.com>

Moose, 

What about adding a battery on the forks to power the camera with a contact pair on the loader arm & fork to charge the battery when the forks are in their normal location? I?m thinking about a plate on one side & a sliding spring contact on the other that wipes onto the plate.  Should only need one contact & use the framework for ground. 

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne 
We support Habitat for Humanity


On Mar 24, 2021, at 8:01 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote:

?OK, here is a weird one. 

Ideally, I need a vehicle backup camera, with a COMPLETELY wireless camera (meaning it's battery operated.) 

Here is the application.  I have a front end loader with a rotating set of forks.  I need a camera that sits to the side of this so I can see the forks as I load the pallets on. 

I've been using a wired camera, but I need to have so much slack in the cable between the loader and the forks as they move in multiple directions from the mounting point.

Here is a video of the forks in action. 
https://youtu.be/6FRdkdKdjyY 

Most battery operated cameras are meant for home based systems.   

Any ideas? 

Any other solutions? 

Thanks. 

Moose

"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

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From eric at megageek.com  Wed Mar 24 07:20:49 2021
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2021 09:20:49 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Looking for solution to vehicle camera problem
In-Reply-To: <BEBEE041-09AB-4FD5-8CEA-93990D5F9406@icloud.com>
References: <OF05354404.A599F1B9-ON852586A2.0046CA3F-852586A2.004771AE@mail.megageek.com>
 <BEBEE041-09AB-4FD5-8CEA-93990D5F9406@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <OFB7697CDA.7923CFA1-ON852586A2.00493D4F-852586A2.00495228@mail.megageek.com>

Pat comes up with a great solution. Battery on the forks!

Pat, it's so simple I can't believe I totally overlooked that.

Thanks!


"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?
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From jdinnis at gmail.com  Wed Mar 24 07:22:16 2021
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2021 08:22:16 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Looking for solution to vehicle camera problem
In-Reply-To: <OF05354404.A599F1B9-ON852586A2.0046CA3F-852586A2.004771AE@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF05354404.A599F1B9-ON852586A2.0046CA3F-852586A2.004771AE@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <CANuE7YCiN-ZTsHsK8djKW2XrB1F-Pyf0aZkfzLHOTdazcBTuYQ@mail.gmail.com>

Try this?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08V5CDRBC/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_XBXW06YGWAQFMGA2S7JV
battery operated, view on your android or iPhone.  I have a similar (older)
model I used on my trailer for backing into the barn and tight spots.

On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 8:01 AM <eric at megageek.com> wrote:

> OK, here is a weird one.
>
> Ideally, I need a vehicle backup camera, with a COMPLETELY wireless camera
> (meaning it's battery operated.)
>
> Here is the application.  I have a front end loader with a rotating set of
> forks.  I need a camera that sits to the side of this so I can see the
> forks as I load the pallets on.
>
> I've been using a wired camera, but I need to have so much slack in the
> cable between the loader and the forks as they move in multiple directions
> from the mounting point.
>
> Here is a video of the forks in action.
> https://youtu.be/6FRdkdKdjyY
>
> Most battery operated cameras are meant for home based systems.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Any other solutions?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Moose
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================
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From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Wed Mar 24 10:53:28 2021
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2021 11:53:28 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Brake Tubing
In-Reply-To: <c0970317-a900-5be4-de45-e1e0fae3f3be@comcast.net>
References: <c0970317-a900-5be4-de45-e1e0fae3f3be@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <D1F791BA-88BD-41DA-8313-0BB083A78BD2@gmail.com>



> On Mar 23, 2021, at 17:42, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> ?A while back, I bought some 3/16" brake pipe from Amazon. The best offer was for galvanized pipe, so I bought it. Now, I'm wondering if galvanized is a bad idea, though I can't say why (presumably it helps prevent surface rust). Anybody used it, or know of any issues with it?
> 

Galvanized is the standard for most automakers these days. It?s fine. Tends to be hard to bend, but easy to flare. 

Historically, steel tubing  was made by rolling a copper coated steel strip into a double wall tube, and electrically brazing it.  It was then terne coated. Trrme is lead with just enough tin in it so it sticks to steel.  It?s no longer available, so the tube is electro galvanized, I think only on the outside.   

Most aftermarket brake tubing is a different steel alloy, coated in polyvinyl fluoride.  It?s easier to bend, and has reasonable corrosion resistance.  

For a regular car, I?d have no problem using either. For something you are keeping forever, I?d use stainless, if you can get a premade set, or kunifer (nicopp is one brand).  If you live in salt land, I?d probably use nicopp for everything. 



From fishplate at gmail.com  Wed Mar 24 12:09:18 2021
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2021 14:09:18 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Looking for solution to vehicle camera problem
In-Reply-To: <CANuE7YCiN-ZTsHsK8djKW2XrB1F-Pyf0aZkfzLHOTdazcBTuYQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <OF05354404.A599F1B9-ON852586A2.0046CA3F-852586A2.004771AE@mail.megageek.com>
 <CANuE7YCiN-ZTsHsK8djKW2XrB1F-Pyf0aZkfzLHOTdazcBTuYQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CMmGGjsxHb1OfDdDrbJd9j+_C-dtjx-n1-WgZBP=0SwLA@mail.gmail.com>

That says it's WiFi connected.  That could be a limitation if you are
far from your WAP.

On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 9:25 AM John Innis <jdinnis at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Try this?  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08V5CDRBC/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_XBXW06YGWAQFMGA2S7JV
> battery operated, view on your android or iPhone.  I have a similar (older) model I used on my trailer for backing into the barn and tight spots.
>
> On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 8:01 AM <eric at megageek.com> wrote:
>>
>> OK, here is a weird one.
>>
>> Ideally, I need a vehicle backup camera, with a COMPLETELY wireless camera (meaning it's battery operated.)
>>
>> Here is the application.  I have a front end loader with a rotating set of forks.  I need a camera that sits to the side of this so I can see the forks as I load the pallets on.
>>
>> I've been using a wired camera, but I need to have so much slack in the cable between the loader and the forks as they move in multiple directions from the mounting point.
>>
>> Here is a video of the forks in action.
>> https://youtu.be/6FRdkdKdjyY
>>
>> Most battery operated cameras are meant for home based systems.
>>
>> Any ideas?
>>
>> Any other solutions?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Moose
>>
>> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson
>> -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com
>>
>
>
> --
> =================================
> = Never offend people with style when you   =
> = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
> =================================
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate at gmail.com
>

From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Wed Mar 24 12:52:19 2021
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2021 14:52:19 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Looking for solution to vehicle camera problem
In-Reply-To: <CAO8Q7CMmGGjsxHb1OfDdDrbJd9j+_C-dtjx-n1-WgZBP=0SwLA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <OF05354404.A599F1B9-ON852586A2.0046CA3F-852586A2.004771AE@mail.megageek.com>
 <CANuE7YCiN-ZTsHsK8djKW2XrB1F-Pyf0aZkfzLHOTdazcBTuYQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAO8Q7CMmGGjsxHb1OfDdDrbJd9j+_C-dtjx-n1-WgZBP=0SwLA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00b801d720de$d1b09c40$7511d4c0$@gmail.com>

The unit in the link indicates it creates its own Wi-Fi network: 
     "WiFi Connection  Super easy to use with your phone, the transmitter
inside the camera creates a WiFi network that will work anywhere,
pre-existing WiFi or internet connection not         required."

It also claims to have a 100 Ft range, so hopefully all the metal on and
around the machine would not prevent it from working.

As to power, if you need the camera to only work occasionally [as opposed to
all day, every day] - I would think you could just use a 12v battery pack:
- this one uses 8 x AA batteries and has a wired on/off switch:
https://smile.amazon.com/CO-RODE-Battery-Holder-Wired-Switch/dp/B00VE7HBMS
- this one is a rechargeable lithium ion pack:
https://smile.amazon.com/ABENIC-1800mAh-Rechargeable-Protable-Lithium/dp/B07
53CP286/

And I see a bunch of others...
----------------
All the best,

Al Fuller

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Jeff
Scarbrough
Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2021 2:09 PM
Cc: shop-talk <Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Looking for solution to vehicle camera problem

That says it's WiFi connected.  That could be a limitation if you are far
from your WAP.

On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 9:25 AM John Innis <jdinnis at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Try this?  
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08V5CDRBC/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_XBXW06YGWAQF
> MGA2S7JV battery operated, view on your android or iPhone.  I have a 
> similar (older) model I used on my trailer for backing into the barn and
tight spots.
>
> On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 8:01 AM <eric at megageek.com> wrote:
>>
>> OK, here is a weird one.
>>
>> Ideally, I need a vehicle backup camera, with a COMPLETELY wireless 
>> camera (meaning it's battery operated.)
>>
>> Here is the application.  I have a front end loader with a rotating set
of forks.  I need a camera that sits to the side of this so I can see the
forks as I load the pallets on.
>>
>> I've been using a wired camera, but I need to have so much slack in the
cable between the loader and the forks as they move in multiple directions
from the mounting point.
>>
>> Here is a video of the forks in action.
>> https://youtu.be/6FRdkdKdjyY
>>
>> Most battery operated cameras are meant for home based systems.
>>
>> Any ideas?
>>
>> Any other solutions?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Moose
>>
>> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a 
>> rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your 
>> territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson -Who is John 
>> Galt?_______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  
>> $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk 
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com
>>
>
>
> --
> =================================
> = Never offend people with style when you   =
> = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  = 
> ================================= 
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  
> $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate at gmail.com
>
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/alfuller194 at gmail.com



From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com  Tue Mar 30 16:50:30 2021
From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott Hall)
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2021 17:50:30 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Compressor problem
Message-ID: <CAK73_u6VZxY2ir8dh=qX6PzCkdH22P_ruED+6w2jURKQp+n7pw@mail.gmail.com>

Fellas,

Looking at a used Quincy compressor. The data plate calls it an ATV5. it's
a two-stage.

It runs fine until it reaches about 150 psi, then the belt starts to squeal
like the pump is dragging. Does that sound like a common problem?

I figure:

1) The pistons are expanding, dragging the pump.

2) The valves aren't closing behind the compressed air, allowing it to
'push back' against the pistons.

I can't disassemble the thing, but a new pump is almost as much as just
buying a new compressor. Any guesses on if I should take a flyer and try to
rebuild it?

Thanks in advance.
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From patintexas at icloud.com  Tue Mar 30 17:01:41 2021
From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2021 18:01:41 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Compressor problem
In-Reply-To: <CAK73_u6VZxY2ir8dh=qX6PzCkdH22P_ruED+6w2jURKQp+n7pw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAK73_u6VZxY2ir8dh=qX6PzCkdH22P_ruED+6w2jURKQp+n7pw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3D15D7A9-A3FA-4F18-BDCE-ECC13529B37F@icloud.com>

Belts look/feel good? 

If you buy it, I?d try new belts first. Unload the pump & run it for30 minutes & see if the pump gets hot. 
If there is a possibility of expanding pistons, try changing the oil. No telling what?s in there now. Much cheaper & faster than rebuilding it. 

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne 
We support Habitat for Humanity


On Mar 30, 2021, at 5:52 PM, Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal at gmail.com> wrote:

team

From dirtbeard at gmail.com  Tue Mar 30 17:09:20 2021
From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard)
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2021 16:09:20 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Compressor problem
In-Reply-To: <CAK73_u6VZxY2ir8dh=qX6PzCkdH22P_ruED+6w2jURKQp+n7pw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAK73_u6VZxY2ir8dh=qX6PzCkdH22P_ruED+6w2jURKQp+n7pw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAG1pxgYMicg5F5LYPLSBJPx5NGRSR-WPT+j_y_42k6mfj6KcHA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Scott,

I know it is too obvious to ask, but have you tried tightening or dressing
the belt? The fact that it runs up to 150 psi and then slips might indicate
a belt problem. If it stalled the motor, caused the breaker to pop, etc.,
then I would be more inclined to think of internal mechanical problems.

best,

doug

On Tue, Mar 30, 2021 at 3:52 PM Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Fellas,
>
> Looking at a used Quincy compressor. The data plate calls it an ATV5. it's
> a two-stage.
>
> It runs fine until it reaches about 150 psi, then the belt starts to
> squeal like the pump is dragging. Does that sound like a common problem?
>
> I figure:
>
> 1) The pistons are expanding, dragging the pump.
>
> 2) The valves aren't closing behind the compressed air, allowing it to
> 'push back' against the pistons.
>
> I can't disassemble the thing, but a new pump is almost as much as just
> buying a new compressor. Any guesses on if I should take a flyer and try to
> rebuild it?
>
> Thanks in advance.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com
>
>
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