From stearman809 at gmail.com Wed Jun 2 14:20:07 2021 From: stearman809 at gmail.com (Karl Vacek) Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2021 15:20:07 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] What's the deal with impact torx sockets? In-Reply-To: References:

<966E9631-AB8B-4442-8D1B-A648C374C372@groupwbench.org> Message-ID: <000b01d757ec$ae90e9f0$0bb2bdd0$@GMail.com> I had Torx caliper bolts once, as I recall it was on my 94 Mustang. Maybe T-55? First time I had to do brakes I needed a bit for the bolts, so I found a Snap-On guy (everyone knows that they're the only thing worth buying and so 5 times the price of regular tools) and paid an atrocious price for a bit. Snapped right off, before loosening the first bolt. Desperate, on a Sunday, I went to NAPA and bought whatever kind they had on the wall display, well under $5.00. Worked just fine, and did several additional brake jobs on that car over the next few years. Used it on gas lift struts on Suburbans too. Still fine. Snap-On did give me a new bit, but that involved finding the same guy to order the bit and then get it. Took weeks and miles of driving. It's still unused, in the drawer next to the one that works. FWIW, I have great luck with Torx, and only buy Torx construction screws if I have a choice. Way less likely to round out than Allen head, and certainly miles ahead of square drive. Now Phillips drywall screws and bits. Grrrr Karl From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of eric at megageek.com Sent: Sunday, May 30, 2021 7:40 PM To: Jim Franklin Cc: Shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] What's the deal with impact torx sockets? That is what I'm looking for, 1/2" drive. But I'll take anything that works. From: Jim Franklin To: eric at megageek.com Cc: Shop-talk at autox.team.net Date: 05/30/2021 10:03 AM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] What's the deal with impact torx sockets? _____ One (useful) thing that occurs to me though, have you tried 1/2" drive instead of 3/8"? jim On May 30, 2021, at 9:46 AM, Jim Franklin wrote: While I've never seen an impact Torx set, I still have the dent in my forehead from the floor jack handle I was using as leverage on a Torx bolt... I don't remember what broke, or much else from that day :-) jim On May 30, 2021, at 7:17 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote: OK, first, WHY DO THEY USE TORX IN HIGH TORQUE APPLICATIONS? These are the WORST fasteners I have ever used. (less flat blade screwdrivers.) Then, if they are going to use them, why can't they make a Torx impact socket set that doesn't twist and brake the first time you use it? OK, with that off my chest... What is the THE BRAND/SET of torx impact sockets that I can rely on? At this point, price isn't really an issue. I just want a set that I can use in an impact gun and remove a bolt without breaking every time. I would want a complete set of sizes, but it seems that I always break the T40 first (it seems to be the most common size.) FWIW, my first real injury while turning wrenches was with a Torx over 25 years ago. I was trying to remove a brake component off of a Lumina and the bit broke, and the wrench chipped my tooth. TO THIS DAY, whenever I have to reach for a torx socket, I still taste that broken tooth! And, I have not found a set of torx that are worth a darn. So, please help me. What set do I need? Thanks. Moose._______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eric at megageek.com Tue Jun 8 11:21:53 2021 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2021 13:21:53 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Automatic Transmission Question Message-ID: G'day all, Quick question, I have a buddy that drives his automatic transmission like a manual. He shifts going up and down hill, even shifts into neutral at stop lights. While I guess it can't hurt anything, I know it is totally unnecessary. But, can it do damage? is there any problem with him doing this? If so, I would love to show him some information if it will cause problems. Thanks. Moose -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jem at milleredp.com Tue Jun 8 12:18:18 2021 From: jem at milleredp.com (jem at milleredp.com) Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2021 11:18:18 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Automatic Transmission Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > Quick question, I have a buddy that drives his automatic transmission > like > a manual. He shifts going up and down hill, even shifts into neutral > at > stop lights. I often hold a slushbox in a lower gear going uphill, or coming downhill for engine braking. As for the people who shift into neutral at stop lights: I often wonder who taught them to drive. Think the shock-loading on the trans and drivetrain parts shifting in and out of gear at stop lights is harder on things than just leaving it in gear, assuming you're not doing it for half an hour or otherwise in a situation (using torque-converter slip to hold you in position on a hill) that would overheat the thing. John. From brabel at comcast.net Tue Jun 8 12:43:28 2021 From: brabel at comcast.net (Bill Rabel) Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2021 11:43:28 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Automatic Transmission Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <22B796AB-F339-4648-BF17-4027823FAFD9@comcast.net> A crucial time to use downshifting is descending a mountain pass using cruise control. Some cruise conrols will apply the brakes to keep the speed constant. I once had an Audi in which the brakes were drastically effected by overheating. Downshifting was the cure. - Bill Rabel Fidalgo Island ?Those who can make you believe absurdities ? can make you commit atrocities.? - Voltaire > On Jun 8, 2021, at 11:18 AM, jem at milleredp.com wrote: > > ? >> >> Quick question, I have a buddy that drives his automatic transmission like >> a manual. He shifts going up and down hill, even shifts into neutral at >> stop lights. > > I often hold a slushbox in a lower gear going uphill, or coming downhill for engine braking. > > As for the people who shift into neutral at stop lights: I often wonder who taught them to drive. Think the shock-loading on the trans and drivetrain parts shifting in and out of gear at stop lights is harder on things than just leaving it in gear, assuming you're not doing it for half an hour or otherwise in a situation (using torque-converter slip to hold you in position on a hill) that would overheat the thing. > > John. > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/brabel at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 1789alpine at gmail.com Tue Jun 8 13:13:36 2021 From: 1789alpine at gmail.com (Jim Stone) Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2021 15:13:36 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Automatic Transmission Question In-Reply-To: <22B796AB-F339-4648-BF17-4027823FAFD9@comcast.net> References: <22B796AB-F339-4648-BF17-4027823FAFD9@comcast.net> Message-ID: <17BEB64A-559C-4BB2-9EF6-5F03C6F43F81@gmail.com> I am virtually certain that I heard this topic discussed years ago on Car Talk. The discussed the pros and cons (like brake wear and tear vs. transmission wear and tear) and concluded that while it was totally unnecessary with modern transmissions, there was no real harm in doing so. FWIW, in England they are required (or at least were 25 or so years ago) to put the car in park at stop lights if they have an automatic transmission. (Manual trannys require the parking brake.) That is one of those things most people stop doing once they have passed the driving test, but not doing so was something that could cause you to fail the test. > On Jun 8, 2021, at 2:43 PM, Bill Rabel wrote: > > A crucial time to use downshifting is descending a mountain pass using cruise control. Some cruise conrols will apply the brakes to keep the speed constant. > > I once had an Audi in which the brakes were drastically effected by overheating. Downshifting was the cure. > > - Bill Rabel > Fidalgo Island > > ?Those who can make you believe absurdities ? can make you commit atrocities.? - Voltaire > > >> On Jun 8, 2021, at 11:18 AM, jem at milleredp.com wrote: >> >> ? >>> >>> Quick question, I have a buddy that drives his automatic transmission like >>> a manual. He shifts going up and down hill, even shifts into neutral at >>> stop lights. >> >> I often hold a slushbox in a lower gear going uphill, or coming downhill for engine braking. >> >> As for the people who shift into neutral at stop lights: I often wonder who taught them to drive. Think the shock-loading on the trans and drivetrain parts shifting in and out of gear at stop lights is harder on things than just leaving it in gear, assuming you're not doing it for half an hour or otherwise in a situation (using torque-converter slip to hold you in position on a hill) that would overheat the thing. >> >> John. >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/brabel at comcast.net >> > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789alpine at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From shannahquilts at gmail.com Tue Jun 8 13:15:31 2021 From: shannahquilts at gmail.com (Shannah Miller) Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2021 12:15:31 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Automatic Transmission Question In-Reply-To: <22B796AB-F339-4648-BF17-4027823FAFD9@comcast.net> References: <22B796AB-F339-4648-BF17-4027823FAFD9@comcast.net> Message-ID: I downshift, too, to spare my brakes from overheating. If I need to use a low gear for traction, I would do it then, too. Shifting all the time seems like unnecessary wear and tear. Has he had issues with his transmission that seemed "too early"? Shannah On Tue, Jun 8, 2021 at 11:52 AM Bill Rabel wrote: > A crucial time to use downshifting is descending a mountain pass using > cruise control. Some cruise conrols will apply the brakes to keep the speed > constant. > > I once had an Audi in which the brakes were drastically effected by > overheating. Downshifting was the cure. > > - Bill Rabel > Fidalgo Island > > ?Those who can make you believe absurdities ? can make you commit > atrocities.? - Voltaire > > On Jun 8, 2021, at 11:18 AM, jem at milleredp.com wrote: > > ? > > Quick question, I have a buddy that drives his automatic transmission like > > a manual. He shifts going up and down hill, even shifts into neutral at > > stop lights. > > > I often hold a slushbox in a lower gear going uphill, or coming downhill > for engine braking. > > As for the people who shift into neutral at stop lights: I often wonder > who taught them to drive. Think the shock-loading on the trans and > drivetrain parts shifting in and out of gear at stop lights is harder on > things than just leaving it in gear, assuming you're not doing it for half > an hour or otherwise in a situation (using torque-converter slip to hold > you in position on a hill) that would overheat the thing. > > John. > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/brabel at comcast.net > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shannahquilts at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jun 8 13:47:56 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2021 12:47:56 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Automatic Transmission Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6ec4cb87-707e-02a6-09b8-dbfda4aee767@comcast.net> re: "... Think the shock-loading on the trans and drivetrain parts shifting in and out of gear at stop lights is harder on things than just leaving it in gear ..." Isn't the transmission going to drop into low(est) gear at a stop, then upshift through all 3/4/5/6/8/9/10 gears when you accelerate anyway? I usually put the AT into park at a stop (and have for years with no issues--but I don't drive an AT all that much).? I see a LOT of cars with at least one brake light burnt out--you used to get a fix-it ticket for that, but not anymore apparently--and always figured it's due to people standing on the brakes through every stop light (and tailgating and riding the brakes a lot, too). At worst, I figure I'm using the shifting rods a bit more, and with a torque converter it's not like dumping a clutch (which /is/ pretty rough on a drivetrain). Without brakes, an AT car wants to creep forward, so by holding it stopped something has to be wearing (clutches, bands?). Anyway, interesting topic. If there's solid evidence that shifting into park or neutral is truly bad, I will change my habit. I /always /put my Healeys in neutral at a stop; standing on the clutch prematurely wears the graphite release 'bearing,' and if my foot were to slip with cross traffic or someone in a crosswalk ... Bob ps. I presume everybody here knows the proper technique for parking an AT car on a hill, right (brake on, transmission in neutral, parking brake on, transmission in park)? On 6/8/2021 11:18 AM, jem at milleredp.com wrote: >> Quick question, I have a buddy that drives his automatic transmission >> like >> a manual.? He shifts going up and down hill, even shifts into neutral at >> stop lights. > > I often hold a slushbox in a lower gear going uphill, or coming > downhill for engine braking. > > As for the people who shift into neutral at stop lights: I often > wonder who taught them to drive.? Think the shock-loading on the trans > and drivetrain parts shifting in and out of gear at stop lights is > harder on things than just leaving it in gear, assuming you're not > doing it for half an hour or otherwise in a situation (using > torque-converter slip to hold you in position on a hill) that would > overheat the thing. > > John. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Tue Jun 8 15:02:48 2021 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2021 17:02:48 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Automatic Transmission Question In-Reply-To: <6ec4cb87-707e-02a6-09b8-dbfda4aee767@comcast.net> References: <6ec4cb87-707e-02a6-09b8-dbfda4aee767@comcast.net> Message-ID: "Without brakes, an AT car wants to creep forward, so by holding it stopped something has to be wearing (clutches, bands?)." Nothing's wearing, but as stated above, you risk overheating the transmission fluid in the torque converter if you do it long enough (which may be hours). On Tue, Jun 8, 2021 at 3:51 PM Bob Spidell wrote: > > re: "... Think the shock-loading on the trans and drivetrain parts shifting in and out of gear at stop lights is harder on things than just leaving it in gear ..." > > Isn't the transmission going to drop into low(est) gear at a stop, then upshift through all 3/4/5/6/8/9/10 gears when you accelerate anyway? I usually put the AT into park at a stop (and have for years with no issues--but I don't drive an AT all that much). I see a LOT of cars with at least one brake light burnt out--you used to get a fix-it ticket for that, but not anymore apparently--and always figured it's due to people standing on the brakes through every stop light (and tailgating and riding the brakes a lot, too). At worst, I figure I'm using the shifting rods a bit more, and with a torque converter it's not like dumping a clutch (which is pretty rough on a drivetrain). Without brakes, an AT car wants to creep forward, so by holding it stopped something has to be wearing (clutches, bands?). > > Anyway, interesting topic. If there's solid evidence that shifting into park or neutral is truly bad, I will change my habit. I always put my Healeys in neutral at a stop; standing on the clutch prematurely wears the graphite release 'bearing,' and if my foot were to slip with cross traffic or someone in a crosswalk ... > > Bob > > ps. I presume everybody here knows the proper technique for parking an AT car on a hill, right (brake on, transmission in neutral, parking brake on, transmission in park)? > > > On 6/8/2021 11:18 AM, jem at milleredp.com wrote: > > Quick question, I have a buddy that drives his automatic transmission like > a manual. He shifts going up and down hill, even shifts into neutral at > stop lights. > > > I often hold a slushbox in a lower gear going uphill, or coming downhill for engine braking. > > As for the people who shift into neutral at stop lights: I often wonder who taught them to drive. Think the shock-loading on the trans and drivetrain parts shifting in and out of gear at stop lights is harder on things than just leaving it in gear, assuming you're not doing it for half an hour or otherwise in a situation (using torque-converter slip to hold you in position on a hill) that would overheat the thing. > > John. > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate at gmail.com > From jem at milleredp.com Tue Jun 8 17:32:11 2021 From: jem at milleredp.com (jem at milleredp.com) Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2021 16:32:11 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Automatic Transmission Question In-Reply-To: References: <6ec4cb87-707e-02a6-09b8-dbfda4aee767@comcast.net> Message-ID: >> Isn't the transmission going to drop into low(est) gear at a stop, >> then upshift through all 3/4/5/6/8/9/10 gears when you accelerate >> anyway? Most hydromechanical (that is, torque converter) automatics will drop into first gear at a stop, some actually start in second gear unless you're really standing on it. I once had an Infiniti Q45 that did this, emulating Mercedes at the time, the Nissan transmission was a beefy box but grossly undercooled and the extra torque-converter workload killed transmissions. There were aftermarket transmission control boxes that gave you first-gear start, I should have done my research. You have other flavors of 'automatic' these days, the double-clutch boxes that use a pair of concentric clutches (hydraulically or electrically actuated) that alternate during electronically-controlled shifting (there's a few that actually slip both clutches in hard acceleration off the line, you're briefly in both first and second gear), eliminating the torque converter, and CVTs about which I don't know a hell of a lot. John. From JIBrooks at live.com Tue Jun 8 21:42:00 2021 From: JIBrooks at live.com (Jack Brooks) Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2021 03:42:00 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Automatic Transmission Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I will downshift on a long hill, but always keep in mind that brakes are incredibly inexpensive (especially if you change your own) compared to a tranny. Living in the PNW I spend a lot of time in the mountains and use firm, interval braking to keep them cool, never riding the brakes for an extended period. Personally, I feel that moving in and out of gear while stopped at a light is hard on a tranny over the long haul. It's a shock load, even when the trans is warm. Jack From: Shop-talk On Behalf Of eric at megageek.com Sent: Tuesday, June 8, 2021 10:22 AM To: Shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: [Shop-talk] Automatic Transmission Question G'day all, Quick question, I have a buddy that drives his automatic transmission like a manual. He shifts going up and down hill, even shifts into neutral at stop lights. While I guess it can't hurt anything, I know it is totally unnecessary. But, can it do damage? is there any problem with him doing this? If so, I would love to show him some information if it will cause problems. Thanks. Moose -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eric at megageek.com Wed Jun 9 12:21:37 2021 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2021 14:21:37 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Another one- Speed bumps Message-ID: WOW, a great bunch of replies over the AT question. I am also of the opinion, brakes are cheap and easy to replace, transmissions, not so much. If people liked that conversation, here is another one I've often wondered. When you come to a speed bump that doesn't stretch across the lane, is it better to... Go so both wheels go over the speed bump at the same time or move to one side so only one side of the car goes over the speed bump and the other side doesn't. Any comments? Go... Moose -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From patintexas at icloud.com Wed Jun 9 12:51:16 2021 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2021 13:51:16 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Another one- Speed bumps In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5AF2DBD2-4CD4-4A4F-888A-EDD782D37F9A@icloud.com> I usually try to keep one wheel off the speed bump. If I?m alone, the driver?s side. I also prefer to take them at speed but those are comfort things, not for the vehicle?s concern. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jun 9, 2021, at 1:22 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote: ?WOW, a great bunch of replies over the AT question. I am also of the opinion, brakes are cheap and easy to replace, transmissions, not so much. If people liked that conversation, here is another one I've often wondered. When you come to a speed bump that doesn't stretch across the lane, is it better to... Go so both wheels go over the speed bump at the same time or move to one side so only one side of the car goes over the speed bump and the other side doesn't. Any comments? Go... Moose_______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmitch at snet.net Wed Jun 9 15:06:21 2021 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2021 17:06:21 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Another one- Speed bumps In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <256fde88-bade-f380-9c9e-614e4b79bcb7@snet.net> I always pull to the side and just go over with one wheel if possible. On 6/9/2021 2:21 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote: > WOW, a great bunch of replies over the AT question. > > I am also of the opinion, brakes are cheap and easy to replace, > transmissions, not so much. > > If people liked that conversation, here is another one I've often > wondered. > > When you come to a speed bump that doesn't stretch across the lane, is > it better to... > > Go so both wheels go over the speed bump at the same time or > move to one side so only one side of the car goes over the speed bump > and the other side doesn't. > > Any comments? > > Go... > > Moose > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jmitch at snet.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tvacc at lotusowners.com Wed Jun 9 15:14:58 2021 From: tvacc at lotusowners.com (Tony Vaccaro) Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2021 17:14:58 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Another one- Speed bumps In-Reply-To: <256fde88-bade-f380-9c9e-614e4b79bcb7@snet.net> References: <256fde88-bade-f380-9c9e-614e4b79bcb7@snet.net> Message-ID: <0cf001d75d74$80e46440$82ad2cc0$@lotusowners.com> Many years ago when leaving a race course with my friend in front, he went over the speed bump at the exit with one wheel. I went over with both. The speed bump edge cut the side of his sump. Engine seized about 3 miles down the road after all the oil leaked out. We were both driving Caterhams with Ford crossflows. Identical cars. Tony V From: Shop-talk On Behalf Of John Mitchell Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2021 5:06 PM To: shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Another one- Speed bumps I always pull to the side and just go over with one wheel if possible. On 6/9/2021 2:21 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote: WOW, a great bunch of replies over the AT question. I am also of the opinion, brakes are cheap and easy to replace, transmissions, not so much. If people liked that conversation, here is another one I've often wondered. When you come to a speed bump that doesn't stretch across the lane, is it better to... Go so both wheels go over the speed bump at the same time or move to one side so only one side of the car goes over the speed bump and the other side doesn't. Any comments? Go... Moose _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jmitch at snet.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dirtbeard at gmail.com Wed Jun 9 15:26:13 2021 From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard) Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2021 14:26:13 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Another one- Speed bumps In-Reply-To: <0cf001d75d74$80e46440$82ad2cc0$@lotusowners.com> References: <256fde88-bade-f380-9c9e-614e4b79bcb7@snet.net> <0cf001d75d74$80e46440$82ad2cc0$@lotusowners.com> Message-ID: I agree with Tony. With my Lotus Elise both wheels, very, very slowly. With my GMC cargo van, one wheel (the passenger side if possible). With the motorcycles, scoot around the end and miss the whole thing. best, doug On Wed, Jun 9, 2021 at 2:15 PM Tony Vaccaro wrote: > Many years ago when leaving a race course with my friend in front, he went > over the speed bump at the exit with one wheel. I went over with both. The > speed bump edge cut the side of his sump. Engine seized about 3 miles down > the road after all the oil leaked out. > > We were both driving Caterhams with Ford crossflows. Identical cars. > > > > Tony V > > > > > > > > *From:* Shop-talk *On Behalf Of *John > Mitchell > *Sent:* Wednesday, June 09, 2021 5:06 PM > *To:* shop-talk at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Shop-talk] Another one- Speed bumps > > > > I always pull to the side and just go over with one wheel if possible. > > On 6/9/2021 2:21 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote: > > WOW, a great bunch of replies over the AT question. > > I am also of the opinion, brakes are cheap and easy to replace, > transmissions, not so much. > > If people liked that conversation, here is another one I've often wondered. > > When you come to a speed bump that doesn't stretch across the lane, is it > better to... > > Go so both wheels go over the speed bump at the same time or > move to one side so only one side of the car goes over the speed bump and > the other side doesn't. > > Any comments? > > Go... > > Moose > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jmitch at snet.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bk13 at earthlink.net Wed Jun 9 17:43:18 2021 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2021 23:43:18 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Another one- Speed bumps Message-ID: <3c912461-117d-6749-c599-f25760336585@earthlink.net> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mbarre at juno.com Sat Jun 12 10:21:33 2021 From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2021 16:21:33 GMT Subject: [Shop-talk] Plumbing help requested Message-ID: <20210612.122133.23046.0@webmail10.vgs.untd.com> Well, after around 4 years I finally decided that the leak in the supply line to the shop is not going to "heal" of its own accord. Paid for the leakfinder to come locate it for me and commenced to dig thru the concrete. I know they have come a long way with the sharkbite type fittings. Any recommendations for a high reliability repair to connect the 3/4 pvc supply to the 3/4 and 1/2 copper coming out of the slab? Access is reasonable but not perfect as it is through a hole in the sidewalk and about a foot down. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: ShopPlumbing1.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 353657 bytes Desc: ShopPlumbing1.jpeg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: ShopPlumbingCloseup_LI.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2349367 bytes Desc: ShopPlumbingCloseup_LI.jpg URL: From jamesf at groupwbench.org Sat Jun 12 10:51:17 2021 From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin) Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2021 12:51:17 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Plumbing help requested In-Reply-To: <20210612.122133.23046.0@webmail10.vgs.untd.com> References: <20210612.122133.23046.0@webmail10.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <299DA6D6-A293-4BA3-A802-75F9F249FF63@groupwbench.org> If it's flexible enough to unsolder and resolder, I'd try that first, you might get lucky, but the pipes need to be dry inside first. I have cleaned and succefully soldered situations like this, but I've also had stubborn joints that wouldn't solder and were a multi-day headache. The Sharkbite needs a smoother surface than a soldering surface, and it's not clear if you'd get that here. Depending on if you have enough time to bow the pipes dry or not, or skill to solder successfully and quickly, I'd call in a pro. They can complete it before the white bread plug leaks :-) Another thought is a PEX insert that will allow the whole thing to flex without cracking a joint (it's hard to tell if that was a poor solder joint or it cracked). I haven't worked with it in 20 years so I don't know if they still require a soldered fitting on which to crimp the PEX. Actually a pro would probably just cut off and rebuild the whole U sectrion in about 30 minutes since they likely have all the tools/parts in the truck. jim > On Jun 12, 2021, at 12:21 PM, Matt wrote: > > > Well, after around 4 years I finally decided that the leak in the supply line to the shop is not going to "heal" of its own accord. Paid for the leakfinder to come locate it for me and commenced to dig thru the concrete. I know they have come a long way with the sharkbite type fittings. Any recommendations for a high reliability repair to connect the 3/4 pvc supply to the 3/4 and 1/2 copper coming out of the slab? > > Access is reasonable but not perfect as it is through a hole in the sidewalk and about a foot down. > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org > From patintexas at icloud.com Sat Jun 12 11:01:07 2021 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2021 12:01:07 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Plumbing help requested In-Reply-To: <20210612.122133.23046.0@webmail10.vgs.untd.com> References: <20210612.122133.23046.0@webmail10.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <427142B4-7115-40D9-AE2E-F76CCAEEA77C@icloud.com> I live in an area with very expansive soil. I?ve had several water joints that have failed over the years. The repair that has worked best for me is a stainless steel flex line like what is used on water heaters. I put a valve box over it for future access if needed. The flex line just screws to pvc or copper fittings. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jun 12, 2021, at 11:30 AM, Matt wrote: ? Well, after around 4 years I finally decided that the leak in the supply line to the shop is not going to "heal" of its own accord. Paid for the leakfinder to come locate it for me and commenced to dig thru the concrete. I know they have come a long way with the sharkbite type fittings. Any recommendations for a high reliability repair to connect the 3/4 pvc supply to the 3/4 and 1/2 copper coming out of the slab? Access is reasonable but not perfect as it is through a hole in the sidewalk and about a foot down. _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com From dirtbeard at gmail.com Sat Jun 12 11:33:53 2021 From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard) Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2021 10:33:53 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Plumbing help requested In-Reply-To: <427142B4-7115-40D9-AE2E-F76CCAEEA77C@icloud.com> References: <20210612.122133.23046.0@webmail10.vgs.untd.com> <427142B4-7115-40D9-AE2E-F76CCAEEA77C@icloud.com> Message-ID: Hi Pat, That sounds like a splendid option. I do not have need for it at this time, but will file it away for future use. Thank you, Doug On Sat, Jun 12, 2021 at 10:01 AM Pat Horne wrote: > I live in an area with very expansive soil. I?ve had several water joints > that have failed over the years. The repair that has worked best for me is > a stainless steel flex line like what is used on water heaters. I put a > valve box over it for future access if needed. The flex line just screws to > pvc or copper fittings. > > Peace, > Pat > > Pat Horne > We support Habitat for Humanity > > > On Jun 12, 2021, at 11:30 AM, Matt wrote: > > ? > Well, after around 4 years I finally decided that the leak in the supply > line to the shop is not going to "heal" of its own accord. Paid for the > leakfinder to come locate it for me and commenced to dig thru the > concrete. I know they have come a long way with the sharkbite type > fittings. Any recommendations for a high reliability repair to connect the > 3/4 pvc supply to the 3/4 and 1/2 copper coming out of the slab? > > Access is reasonable but not perfect as it is through a hole in the > sidewalk and about a foot down. > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mbarre at juno.com Sat Jun 12 14:32:06 2021 From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2021 20:32:06 GMT Subject: [Shop-talk] Plumbing help requested Message-ID: <20210612.163206.1759.0@webmail02.vgs.untd.com> Thanks for the quick replies. While it is against my nature I was ready to take Jim?s advice and just call a plumber who would likely make quick work of it but then realized I would be waiting till Monday to even initiate. I had tried to attach a pic but no-go. I am gonna give it a try with shark bites and worst case I call a pro Monday morning. Thanks again. ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Jim Franklin To: Matt Cc: shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Plumbing help requested Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2021 12:51:17 -0400 If it's flexible enough to unsolder and resolder, I'd try that first, you might get lucky, but the pipes need to be dry inside first. I have cleaned and succefully soldered situations like this, but I've also had stubborn joints that wouldn't solder and were a multi-day headache. The Sharkbite needs a smoother surface than a soldering surface, and it's not clear if you'd get that here. Depending on if you have enough time to bow the pipes dry or not, or skill to solder successfully and quickly, I'd call in a pro. They can complete it before the white bread plug leaks :-) Another thought is a PEX insert that will allow the whole thing to flex without cracking a joint (it's hard to tell if that was a poor solder joint or it cracked). I haven't worked with it in 20 years so I don't know if they still require a soldered fitting on which to crimp the PEX. Actually a pro would probably just cut off and rebuild the whole U sectrion in about 30 minutes since they likely have all the tools/parts in the truck. jim > On Jun 12, 2021, at 12:21 PM, Matt wrote: > > > Well, after around 4 years I finally decided that the leak in the supply line to the shop is not going to "heal" of its own accord. Paid for the leakfinder to come locate it for me and commenced to dig thru the concrete. I know they have come a long way with the sharkbite type fittings. Any recommendations for a high reliability repair to connect the 3/4 pvc supply to the 3/4 and 1/2 copper coming out of the slab? > > Access is reasonable but not perfect as it is through a hole in the sidewalk and about a foot down. > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org > From strovato at optonline.net Sat Jun 12 14:54:22 2021 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2021 16:54:22 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Plumbing help requested In-Reply-To: <20210612.163206.1759.0@webmail02.vgs.untd.com> References: <20210612.163206.1759.0@webmail02.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: FYI, SharkBite says that fittings used underground should be wrapped in silicone tape. https://www.sharkbite.com/resources/blog/key-using-sharkbite-underground -Steve At 04:32 PM 6/12/2021, Matt wrote: >Thanks for the quick replies. While it is against my nature I was >ready to take Jim's advice and just call a plumber who would likely >make quick work of it but then realized I would be waiting till >Monday to even initiate. > >I had tried to attach a pic but no-go. > >I am gonna give it a try with shark bites and worst case I call a >pro Monday morning. > >Thanks again. > > >---------- Original Message ---------- >From: Jim Franklin >To: Matt >Cc: shop-talk at autox.team.net >Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Plumbing help requested >Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2021 12:51:17 -0400 > >If it's flexible enough to unsolder and resolder, I'd try that >first, you might get lucky, but the pipes need to be dry inside >first. I have cleaned and succefully soldered situations like this, >but I've also had stubborn joints that wouldn't solder and were a >multi-day headache. The Sharkbite needs a smoother surface than a >soldering surface, and it's not clear if you'd get that here. > >Depending on if you have enough time to bow the pipes dry or not, or >skill to solder successfully and quickly, I'd call in a pro. They >can complete it before the white bread plug leaks :-) > >Another thought is a PEX insert that will allow the whole thing to >flex without cracking a joint (it's hard to tell if that was a poor >solder joint or it cracked). I haven't worked with it in 20 years so >I don't know if they still require a soldered fitting on which to >crimp the PEX. > >Actually a pro would probably just cut off and rebuild the whole U >sectrion in about 30 minutes since they likely have all the >tools/parts in the truck. > >jim > > > On Jun 12, 2021, at 12:21 PM, Matt wrote: > > > > > > Well, after around 4 years I finally decided that the leak in the > supply line to the shop is not going to "heal" of its own > accord. Paid for the leakfinder to come locate it for me and > commenced to dig thru the concrete. I know they have come a long > way with the sharkbite type fittings. Any recommendations for a > high reliability repair to connect the 3/4 pvc supply to the 3/4 > and 1/2 copper coming out of the slab? > > > > Access is reasonable but not perfect as it is through a hole in > the sidewalk and about a foot down. > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org > > >_______________________________________________ > >Shop-talk at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.96 >Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/strovato at optonline.net -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From jblair1948 at cox.net Sat Jun 12 15:23:13 2021 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2021 17:23:13 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Plumbing help requested Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20210612172300.068cb8c8@cox.net> At 12:21 PM 6/12/2021, Matt wrote: >Well, after around 4 years I finally decided that the leak in the supply line to the >shop is not going to "heal" of its own accord. Paid for the leakfinder to come >locate it for me and commenced to dig thru the concrete. I know they have >come a long way with the sharkbite type fittings. Any recommendations for a >high reliability repair to connect the 3/4 pvc supply to the 3/4 and 1/2 copper >coming out of the slab? If the leak is below the 1/2 break out tween where the 3/4" pipe connects to the other 3/4" pipe, why not try something like a Fernco coupling. They make all different sizes. The only problem is you'll have to cut the short copper pipe to slide the Frenco coupling over each end of the leak. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy: e pluribus Unum, "from many, one." In God We Trust Liberty - the power of choosing, thinking, and acting for oneself; freedom from control or restriction -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From markmiller at threeboysfarm.com Sat Jun 12 21:34:35 2021 From: markmiller at threeboysfarm.com (Mark Miller) Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2021 20:34:35 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Plumbing help requested (Matt) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I can't tell from your description or the picture where the leak is: in the copper connections or where the copper meets the PVC. If in the PVC to copper transition: I'd cut the PVC above the left elbow and replace the rest by going up and then over. If in the copper: you will be hard pressed to solder the copper without damaging the PVC due to the transmitted heat. I'd go with crimp pex or shark bites. Or go with solder and replace the PVC afterwards.? And with whatever you do I'd recommend filling the cavity with something that won't transfer compression stresses to the piping, like styrofoam pellets. Another thought: it looks like all three pipes might be coming out from whatever is on the other side of that brick wall. Is it a basement or crawlspace?? Perhaps you could do the repair there. Regards, Mark Miller 707-490-5834 markmiller at threeboysfarm.com On 6/12/2021 9:23 AM, shop-talk-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Plumbing help requested (Matt) > > > Well, after around 4 years I finally decided that the leak in the supply line to the shop is not going to "heal" of its own accord. Paid for the leakfinder to come locate it for me and commenced to dig thru the concrete. I know they have come a long way with the sharkbite type fittings. Any recommendations for a high reliability repair to connect the 3/4 pvc supply to the 3/4 and 1/2 copper coming out of the slab? > > Access is reasonable but not perfect as it is through a hole in the sidewalk and about a foot down. > From patintexas at icloud.com Sun Jun 13 06:29:40 2021 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2021 07:29:40 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Plumbing help requested In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20210612172300.068cb8c8@cox.net> References: <6.2.5.6.1.20210612172300.068cb8c8@cox.net> Message-ID: Are Fernco couplings rated for pressure? A quick look @ their site shows DWV use. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jun 12, 2021, at 4:24 PM, John T. Blair wrote: ? At 12:21 PM 6/12/2021, Matt wrote: >Well, after around 4 years I finally decided that the leak in the supply line to the >shop is not going to "heal" of its own accord. Paid for the leakfinder to come >locate it for me and commenced to dig thru the concrete. I know they have >come a long way with the sharkbite type fittings. Any recommendations for a >high reliability repair to connect the 3/4 pvc supply to the 3/4 and 1/2 copper >coming out of the slab? If the leak is below the 1/2 break out tween where the 3/4" pipe connects to the other 3/4" pipe, why not try something like a Fernco coupling. They make all different sizes. The only problem is you'll have to cut the short copper pipe to slide the Frenco coupling over each end of the leak. John This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy: e pluribus Unum, "from many, one." In God We Trust Liberty - the power of choosing, thinking, and acting for oneself; freedom from control or restriction _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tjcora at icloud.com Sun Jun 13 11:40:32 2021 From: tjcora at icloud.com (Thomas Coradeschi) Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2021 13:40:32 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Plumbing help requested In-Reply-To: <20210612.122133.23046.0@webmail10.vgs.untd.com> References: <20210612.122133.23046.0@webmail10.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: I would keep it simple. Cut both copper lines and the PVC line and rebuild it all. You?re looking at maybe 20 bucks worth of material, and working with new will be infinitely easier than trying to make the old stuff work, worrying about heat damaging the PVC and all the rest. Tom Coradeschi tjcora at icloud.com > On Jun 12, 2021, at 12:31 PM, Matt wrote: > > ? > Well, after around 4 years I finally decided that the leak in the supply line to the shop is not going to "heal" of its own accord. Paid for the leakfinder to come locate it for me and commenced to dig thru the concrete. I know they have come a long way with the sharkbite type fittings. Any recommendations for a high reliability repair to connect the 3/4 pvc supply to the 3/4 and 1/2 copper coming out of the slab? > > Access is reasonable but not perfect as it is through a hole in the sidewalk and about a foot down. > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tjcora at icloud.com > From jamesf at groupwbench.org Sun Jun 13 18:48:10 2021 From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin) Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2021 20:48:10 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Outdoor long term car storage Message-ID: <334F2C6C-26B8-4B13-AA42-B58B3A943A1E@groupwbench.org> I've sold my house and will be travelig for a while, months at a time. I'm looking for options for storing the car and a few rolling toolboxes. I can use a friend's land, but I don't want the car exposed to ground moisture, tree sap, etc. Are there good enclosures that will keep out rodents, humidity, etc? The ones I'm finding with Google don't look very serious. It's a VW Sportwagen if that matters. I'm in MA so it will see snow. thanks, jim From dirtbeard at gmail.com Sun Jun 13 18:51:12 2021 From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard) Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2021 17:51:12 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Outdoor long term car storage In-Reply-To: <334F2C6C-26B8-4B13-AA42-B58B3A943A1E@groupwbench.org> References: <334F2C6C-26B8-4B13-AA42-B58B3A943A1E@groupwbench.org> Message-ID: Hi Jim, Would you consider just renting a storage space for a few months and putting everything inside, nice and dry? best, doug On Sun, Jun 13, 2021 at 5:48 PM Jim Franklin wrote: > I've sold my house and will be travelig for a while, months at a time. I'm > looking for options for storing the car and a few rolling toolboxes. I can > use a friend's land, but I don't want the car exposed to ground moisture, > tree sap, etc. Are there good enclosures that will keep out rodents, > humidity, etc? The ones I'm finding with Google don't look very serious. > It's a VW Sportwagen if that matters. I'm in MA so it will see snow. > > thanks, > jim > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dhlocker at comcast.net Mon Jun 14 03:00:48 2021 From: dhlocker at comcast.net (Donald H Locker) Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2021 05:00:48 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Outdoor long term car storage In-Reply-To: <334F2C6C-26B8-4B13-AA42-B58B3A943A1E@groupwbench.org> References: <334F2C6C-26B8-4B13-AA42-B58B3A943A1E@groupwbench.org> Message-ID: Would your friend allow you to drop a shipping container on his land? That would give substantial protection; used ones are available for rent, lease, or purchase. Donald. -- *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue () no proprietary attachments; no html mail /\ On 2021-06-13 8:48 p.m., Jim Franklin wrote: > I've sold my house and will be travelig for a while, months at a time. I'm looking for options for storing the car and a few rolling toolboxes. I can use a friend's land, but I don't want the car exposed to ground moisture, tree sap, etc. Are there good enclosures that will keep out rodents, humidity, etc? The ones I'm finding with Google don't look very serious. It's a VW Sportwagen if that matters. I'm in MA so it will see snow. > > thanks, > jim > From jamesf at groupwbench.org Mon Jun 14 05:35:00 2021 From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin) Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2021 07:35:00 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Outdoor long term car storage In-Reply-To: References: <334F2C6C-26B8-4B13-AA42-B58B3A943A1E@groupwbench.org> Message-ID: > People wrote: > renting a storage space This is tops on the list, and I have an inquiry into the place where I planned on sticking the tools and guitars (climate controlled). A non climate-controlled vehicle spot is $340/mo, but if it's buffered enough from the direct atmosphere, like a garge-in-a-garage, it might work for everything, providing there's an open spot (Boston area space is hard to find especially during moving season). I'm already planning on spending $200/mo for the tools & guitars so $140 for a car is easy. > Shipping container? Their land isn't THAT big, but he might go for it :-) However, given my experience having a motorcycle completely oxidize in my parrents' tin shed onver one year, I want enough of a buffer that the parts can warm before the humidity comes in. A gigantic steel box seems like the exact opposite of that. > what are your tools and car worth to you? The $100,000 question. If I knew how long they'd be stored, the answer would be easier. The tools are half my dad's, so there's emotional value plus the quality. Striclty economically, if I lost everything, I could replace the stuff I actually use for $500 or so. I just gave away 6 (SIX!) claw hammers (and spotted another one the realtor shoved into teh BBQ cabinet. There's some excess and redundancy and maybe hoarding :-) The car is a low mileage wagon with a stick, last year with the 1.8. So it's a rare car I don't want to have to re-find, but I also really don't want to have to debug (literally and figuratively) after a winter in storage, so seling or loaning it out isn't off the table. jim From nick at landform.co.uk Mon Jun 14 06:20:31 2021 From: nick at landform.co.uk (nick brearley) Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2021 13:20:31 +0100 Subject: [Shop-talk] Outdoor long term car storage In-Reply-To: References: <334F2C6C-26B8-4B13-AA42-B58B3A943A1E@groupwbench.org>

Message-ID: <52cca9ed-691d-09fa-97e3-e9083a82b321@landform.co.uk> A friend of a friend here in the UK makes these: https://www.carcoon.com/ Not sure I'd leave one exposed in the open for months/years but for indoor use hard to beat. Low energy input. Wish I'd bitten the bullet and bought one for my (ex) MX5, now gone to the great scrapyard in the sky with many years of mechanical life left but total body rot. Nick Brearley On 14/06/2021 12:35, Jim Franklin wrote: > >> People wrote: >> renting a storage space > This is tops on the list, and I have an inquiry into the place where I planned on sticking the tools and guitars (climate controlled). A non climate-controlled vehicle spot is $340/mo, but if it's buffered enough from the direct atmosphere, like a garge-in-a-garage, it might work for everything, providing there's an open spot (Boston area space is hard to find especially during moving season). I'm already planning on spending $200/mo for the tools & guitars so $140 for a car is easy. > >> Shipping container? > Their land isn't THAT big, but he might go for it :-) However, given my experience having a motorcycle completely oxidize in my parrents' tin shed onver one year, I want enough of a buffer that the parts can warm before the humidity comes in. A gigantic steel box seems like the exact opposite of that. > >> what are your tools and car worth to you? > The $100,000 question. If I knew how long they'd be stored, the answer would be easier. The tools are half my dad's, so there's emotional value plus the quality. Striclty economically, if I lost everything, I could replace the stuff I actually use for $500 or so. I just gave away 6 (SIX!) claw hammers (and spotted another one the realtor shoved into teh BBQ cabinet. There's some excess and redundancy and maybe hoarding :-) > > The car is a low mileage wagon with a stick, last year with the 1.8. So it's a rare car I don't want to have to re-find, but I also really don't want to have to debug (literally and figuratively) after a winter in storage, so seling or loaning it out isn't off the table. > > jim > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/nick at landform.co.uk > From mbarre at juno.com Tue Jun 15 10:23:48 2021 From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2021 16:23:48 GMT Subject: [Shop-talk] Plumbing help requested Message-ID: <20210615.122348.31608.1@webmail05.vgs.untd.com> Plumber just left. Problem solved. For a change for me, I jumped on the early advice to use a pro but the reality that I had the entire weekend to await their arrival I had to take a swing at it myself. Of course I just cut the old stuff out and went with all new fittings. I went the shark bite route and had everything looking beautiful but it failed the leak check - damn. The original failure point was the copper T fitting joint - it was obvious that one of the pipes had backed out about 1/2 inch and a pinhole formed. My repair failed at the same place and I am unsure whether it was poor soldering or damage to the joint due to the force needed to seat the SBs - it took surprising force to seat three simultaneously. All in all I am happy it is done and don�t have to worry about SBs in the ground. I had already formulated a plan to protect them in silicone filled pvc pipe sleeves. Thanks for the silicone tip Steven T! Once again this list is a valuable resource. Thanks guys! I plan to be in the shop much more going forward. Maybe I can generate some more traffic - it?s been slow. MB ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Thomas Coradeschi To: Matt Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Plumbing help requested Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2021 20:50:08 -0400 Did you make any progress on this? Enquiring minds want to know! Tom Coradeschi tjcora at icloud.com > On Jun 12, 2021, at 12:31 PM, Matt wrote: > > > Well, after around 4 years I finally decided that the leak in the supply line to the shop is not going to "heal" of its own accord. Paid for the leakfinder to come locate it for me and commenced to dig thru the concrete. I know they have come a long way with the sharkbite type fittings. Any recommendations for a high reliability repair to connect the 3/4 pvc supply to the 3/4 and 1/2 copper coming out of the slab? > > Access is reasonable but not perfect as it is through a hole in the sidewalk and about a foot down. > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tjcora at icloud.com > From mbarre at juno.com Tue Jun 15 11:11:41 2021 From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2021 17:11:41 GMT Subject: [Shop-talk] Plumbing lessons learned Message-ID: <20210615.131141.31608.2@webmail05.vgs.untd.com> I forgot to include what the pro did. He used a silicon carbide screen strip to clean the in ground pipe for an extended period. Then he used an inspection mirror to inspect the surface and cleaned for an additional extended period. The other trick was he used a long flexible tube to blow the pipes out and get them as dry as possible. The final difference from what I did was he used pen. It was much easier to position and secure and had enough give to help make the connections. I will rebury and patch the concrete tomorrow. From strovato at optonline.net Wed Jun 23 17:57:56 2021 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2021 19:57:56 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] What is this? In-Reply-To: <20210615.131141.31608.2@webmail05.vgs.untd.com> References: <20210615.131141.31608.2@webmail05.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <13.C0.19280.41BC3D06@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Time for another "what is this" question. It looks sort of like a fuse puller, but the round end doesn't really look right for that. Awaiting the wisdom of the group... -Steve T. -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: yellow puller tool.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 221715 bytes Desc: not available URL: From stearman809 at gmail.com Wed Jun 23 18:17:04 2021 From: stearman809 at gmail.com (Karl Vacek) Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2021 19:17:04 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] What is this? In-Reply-To: <13.C0.19280.41BC3D06@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> References: <20210615.131141.31608.2@webmail05.vgs.untd.com> <13.C0.19280.41BC3D06@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Message-ID: <17a3b609418.28bf.cd27845553c78383775132770b7455be@gmail.com> For pulling plug wires while the engine is running. On June 23, 2021 7:07:26 PM Steven Trovato wrote: > Time for another "what is this" question. It looks sort of like a > fuse puller, but the round end doesn't really look right for > that. Awaiting the wisdom of the group... > > -Steve T. > > -- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus > > > > ---------- > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/stearman809 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From strovato at optonline.net Wed Jun 23 18:27:34 2021 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2021 20:27:34 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] What is this? In-Reply-To: <17a3b609418.28bf.cd27845553c78383775132770b7455be@gmail.co m> References: <20210615.131141.31608.2@webmail05.vgs.untd.com> <13.C0.19280.41BC3D06@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> <17a3b609418.28bf.cd27845553c78383775132770b7455be@gmail.com> Message-ID: I think you are correct! Now that I know what I'm looking for, I found this: https://www.powerbuilt.com/products/spark-plug-wire-puller Thanks for the assistance. -Steve T. At 08:17 PM 6/23/2021, Karl Vacek wrote: >For pulling plug wires while the engine is running. > >On June 23, 2021 7:07:26 PM Steven Trovato wrote: > >>Time for another "what is this" question. It looks sort of like a >>fuse puller, but the round end doesn't really look right for >>that. Awaiting the wisdom of the group... >> >>-Steve T. >> >>-- >>This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. >>https://www.avast.com/antivirus >> >> >> >>---------- >>_______________________________________________ >> >>Shop-talk at autox.team.net >>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>Suggested annual donation $12.96 >>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >>http://autox.team.net/archive >> >>Unsubscribe/Manage: >>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/stearman809 at gmail.com -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From JIBrooks at live.com Wed Jun 23 19:18:54 2021 From: JIBrooks at live.com (Jack Brooks) Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2021 01:18:54 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] What is this? In-Reply-To: <17a3b609418.28bf.cd27845553c78383775132770b7455be@gmail.com> References: <20210615.131141.31608.2@webmail05.vgs.untd.com> <13.C0.19280.41BC3D06@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> <17a3b609418.28bf.cd27845553c78383775132770b7455be@gmail.com> Message-ID: Steven wrote For pulling plug wires while the engine is running. Where is the fun with that? Zap, zap, zap, zap, zap?.. ? Jack From: Shop-talk On Behalf Of Karl Vacek Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2021 5:17 PM To: Steven Trovato ; shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] What is this? For pulling plug wires while the engine is running. On June 23, 2021 7:07:26 PM Steven Trovato > wrote: Time for another "what is this" question. It looks sort of like a fuse puller, but the round end doesn't really look right for that. Awaiting the wisdom of the group... -Steve T. -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus ---------- _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/stearman809 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dmscheidt at gmail.com Fri Jun 25 09:11:24 2021 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2021 10:11:24 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] What is this? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > On Jun 23, 2021, at 20:19, Jack Brooks wrote: > > ? > Steven wrote > For pulling plug wires while the engine is running. > > Where is the fun with that? Zap, zap, zap, zap, zap?.. ? > Yeah, been there, done that, bought the pullers. (At least two types?.) Also, pullers are very useful for plugs wires with goofy boots or tubes, even when the engine isn?t running. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: