[Shop-talk] Cordless drill/screw driver

[Bob Spidell]

Others have said it, but I'll reiterate: Pick a battery/voltage, then 
acquire the tools that go with it. If you get a cordless drill, 
eventually you'll want a cordless impact 'wrench'--for lug nuts if 
nothing else--a 'sawzall'  (equivalent), a circular saw, etc. Buy a 
combo kit, with a battery and charger included, to start.

I went with DeWalt 20V 'XR' brushless, because of mostly positive 
reviews and, whether it's merit or good product placement by the 
marketeers (probably both), they seem to be the most popular among the 
mechanics, farmers, etc. on the quasi-reality TV shows (Stihl gets the 
nod for gas chainsaws, with Husqvarna second). I bought a cordless 
DeWalt hedger, slightly discounted because it was a display model, 
thinking "Sure, it'll do a couple bushes then quit," but we did my mom's 
whole (large) backyard on a single 4Ah battery. The tool that drains the 
battery fastest is my 4&1/2" angle grinder/sander/wirebrusher, probably 
because it runs more continuously and has an 'open circuit' load; I get 
about 20mins on a 4Ah battery.

I have a full complement of pneumatic and corded electric tools--many 
are Harbor Freight, for occasional use--that are mostly collecting dust 
these days; it's just not worth unraveling an extension cord or firing 
up the compressor for a quick, one-off job . One of my faves is an old 
Makita 9V driver/drill, which can't hold a candle for power to the 
DeWalt--and replacement Chinese batteries are hit-or-miss--but it keeps 
soldiering-on. Makita stuff is top-notch, but I haven't seen the variety 
of tools--doesn't mean they don't have them--that DeWalt, Milwaukee, 
etc. have on display.

Bob

On 1/11/2021 5:38 AM, Tim . wrote:
> I didn't say I was going to spend 320. I said "if necessary".
>
> I already have a mitre saw. In fact, I have a full shop including 
> 80-gallon compressor, blast cabinet, parts washer, panel beating 
> tools, and a boat load of hand tools.
>
> I simply want the best cordless drill/screw driver out there. My 
> experience with ryobi is that they don't hold up to even how much I 
> use them.
>
> tim
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* John T. Blair <jblair1948 at cox.net>
> *Sent:* Sunday, January 10, 2021 10:09 PM
> *To:* Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>
> *Subject:* Re: [Shop-talk] Cordless drill/screw driver
> At 10:58 AM 1/10/2021, Tim wrote:
>
> >I have a $100 menards rebate check and a $60 rebate visa card that 
> are both
> >burning a hole in my pocket. Also, I have the 15% "anything you can 
> fit in the
> >bag" sale bag. I figure $160 is a good starting point and am willing 
> to at least
> >match that 160 or more if necessary to get the best out there right now.
>
> ......
>
> >I am not worried about a little heavier than most as I am not 
> contractor and this
> >won't get used every day. I am just getting tired of dragging cords. 
> I'd like
> >whatever I get to be the start of going all cordless (skill saw, 
> Sawzall, etc).
>
> Tim,
>
> If you are not going to be using it every day, why do you want to 
> spend a ton of
> money on a cordless drill.  You say you have $160 burning a hole in 
> your pocket
> and are willing to put another $160 to that.  Man that $320!!!!  You 
> can get a
> Roybi or such for say $100.  Usually around Xmas which you just 
> missed, you can
> get a Roybi kit with a drill, saw, and another tool for less than 
> $150.  That's where
> I'd put the first $160.  Then I'd look at something else like a 
> sliding compound
> miter saw, or a nail gun or two, or some other tools.
>
> Now that being said, let me say I buy a lot of Harbor Freight tools.  
> And for the
> occassional use they work well.  I have a $25 ish oscillating saw, 
> which I've used
> for something over 5 yrs.  It just died in the middle of a remodel in 
> a bedroom.
> So I bought another.  Especially if you don't know what you're going 
> to use it for.
> I also have a cheap $20 H.F. recriprocating saw that has paid for it's 
> self.  If I'd
> have bought a $100 to $300 version of either of these tools, I'd never 
> had really
> gotten my money worth out of the tool.  I'm 72 and it's getting harder 
> and harder
> every day for me to do a lot of the things I used to do, like bend 
> over. :)  So why
> should I pay for a tool that would last me for the next 30 years or 
> so, if I'm only
> going to be around for another 10 years?
>
> Spend a little less money on a tool, and get more of them. Especially 
> if it not your
> bread and butter.
>
> John
>
>
>  2
>

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