From rrochlin at comcast.net  Tue Feb  2 08:21:46 2021
From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Rochlin Robert)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2021 10:21:46 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Wiring a Honywell WiFi Thermostat to a 2 wire system
Message-ID: <796C260F-EA8F-4FF4-A00B-11F058A31EDB@comcast.net>

	I moved my Honeywell WiFi thermostat from the 1st floor where it controlled A/C, heat, and fan to the garage where it would only control heat. I wired a C wire and connected the red and white wires from the appropriate boiler zone to the WiFi thermostat but I does seem to be getting power. Aside from not having a fan or A/C wire the installation is the same.  I know the C wire is a good circuit because it is the same one that this thermostat used, and a new now functioning first floor thermostat uses. Any help appreciated.
	Best,
	Bob

From patintexas at icloud.com  Tue Feb  2 08:32:39 2021
From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2021 09:32:39 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Wiring a Honywell WiFi Thermostat to a 2 wire system
In-Reply-To: <796C260F-EA8F-4FF4-A00B-11F058A31EDB@comcast.net>
References: <796C260F-EA8F-4FF4-A00B-11F058A31EDB@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <FF3896AF-4CD6-48D3-93C3-CD712A25BC65@icloud.com>

There should be 24V AC between the C & R terminals. A wire may have broken while relocating. 

You can check the white & red by shorting them together. If it works the problem is with the C wire. If not, it?s probably the R wire. 

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne 
We support Habitat for Humanity


On Feb 2, 2021, at 9:26 AM, Rochlin Robert <rrochlin at comcast.net> wrote:

?    I moved my Honeywell WiFi thermostat from the 1st floor where it controlled A/C, heat, and fan to the garage where it would only control heat. I wired a C wire and connected the red and white wires from the appropriate boiler zone to the WiFi thermostat but I does seem to be getting power. Aside from not having a fan or A/C wire the installation is the same.  I know the C wire is a good circuit because it is the same one that this thermostat used, and a new now functioning first floor thermostat uses. Any help appreciated.
   Best,
   Bob
_______________________________________________

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From rrochlin at comcast.net  Tue Feb  2 08:46:03 2021
From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Rochlin Robert)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2021 10:46:03 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Wiring a Honywell WiFi Thermostat to a 2 wire system
In-Reply-To: <FF3896AF-4CD6-48D3-93C3-CD712A25BC65@icloud.com>
References: <796C260F-EA8F-4FF4-A00B-11F058A31EDB@comcast.net>
 <FF3896AF-4CD6-48D3-93C3-CD712A25BC65@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <01BC7B87-36E4-4378-A257-E5E68B0E9A6C@comcast.net>

Hi Pat,
	Thanks for the quick reply.  I did jump the red and white at the thermostat and the heat does activate,  I?m also getting  power to the C wire when I ground it at the thermostat.  I?m figuring that the lack one of the other wires, A/C or fan, may have something to do with the unit not working. If the C wire is common shouldn?t there be another wire to complete the circuit to provide power to the unit, maybe the red? 
	Best,
	Bob

> On Feb 2, 2021, at 10:32 AM, Pat Horne <patintexas at icloud.com> wrote:
> 
> There should be 24V AC between the C & R terminals. A wire may have broken while relocating. 
> 
> You can check the white & red by shorting them together. If it works the problem is with the C wire. If not, it?s probably the R wire. 
> 
> Peace,
> Pat
> 
> Pat Horne 
> We support Habitat for Humanity
> 
> 
> On Feb 2, 2021, at 9:26 AM, Rochlin Robert <rrochlin at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> ?    I moved my Honeywell WiFi thermostat from the 1st floor where it controlled A/C, heat, and fan to the garage where it would only control heat. I wired a C wire and connected the red and white wires from the appropriate boiler zone to the WiFi thermostat but I does seem to be getting power. Aside from not having a fan or A/C wire the installation is the same.  I know the C wire is a good circuit because it is the same one that this thermostat used, and a new now functioning first floor thermostat uses. Any help appreciated.
>   Best,
>   Bob
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com
> 


From patintexas at icloud.com  Tue Feb  2 08:56:02 2021
From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2021 09:56:02 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Wiring a Honywell WiFi Thermostat to a 2 wire system
In-Reply-To: <01BC7B87-36E4-4378-A257-E5E68B0E9A6C@comcast.net>
References: <01BC7B87-36E4-4378-A257-E5E68B0E9A6C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <D56C7C1A-D1ED-47C4-9E2D-9FBA4F1E96F1@icloud.com>

Red & C are the power. You only need 3 wires for that stat. What model is the thermostat? I have three TH6220WF units here. If you have a base on the wall that has a slide switch on it for connecting the R & Rc, it can?t hurt to have them connected but it is probably the problem. 

Measure the voltage on the thermostat base in the holes the pins go into. There be a bad connection in the base.

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne 
We support Habitat for Humanity


On Feb 2, 2021, at 9:47 AM, Rochlin Robert <rrochlin at comcast.net> wrote:

?Hi Pat,
   Thanks for the quick reply.  I did jump the red and white at the thermostat and the heat does activate,  I?m also getting  power to the C wire when I ground it at the thermostat.  I?m figuring that the lack one of the other wires, A/C or fan, may have something to do with the unit not working. If the C wire is common shouldn?t there be another wire to complete the circuit to provide power to the unit, maybe the red? 
   Best,
   Bob

> On Feb 2, 2021, at 10:32 AM, Pat Horne <patintexas at icloud.com> wrote:
> 
> There should be 24V AC between the C & R terminals. A wire may have broken while relocating. 
> 
> You can check the white & red by shorting them together. If it works the problem is with the C wire. If not, it?s probably the R wire. 
> 
> Peace,
> Pat
> 
> Pat Horne 
> We support Habitat for Humanity
> 
> 
> On Feb 2, 2021, at 9:26 AM, Rochlin Robert <rrochlin at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> ?    I moved my Honeywell WiFi thermostat from the 1st floor where it controlled A/C, heat, and fan to the garage where it would only control heat. I wired a C wire and connected the red and white wires from the appropriate boiler zone to the WiFi thermostat but I does seem to be getting power. Aside from not having a fan or A/C wire the installation is the same.  I know the C wire is a good circuit because it is the same one that this thermostat used, and a new now functioning first floor thermostat uses. Any help appreciated.
>  Best,
>  Bob
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com
> 

_______________________________________________

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Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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From 1789alpine at gmail.com  Tue Feb  2 10:59:55 2021
From: 1789alpine at gmail.com (Jim Stone)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2021 12:59:55 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Removing bathroom sink
Message-ID: <23ADD56D-B546-428B-A43C-EE4478D2B799@gmail.com>

I am planning on tiling the backsplash behind my bathroom sink and would like to put the tile behind the sink.  (The alternative is tiling around the sink, something I don?t think will look professional and will be a PITA.). The sink, a porcelain vessel-type basin (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LGKGIA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1), sits on top of a marble countertop.  The sink was caulked in place at the time of installation and the only thing holding it to the countertop is gravity and weight.  The only visible caulk was where the sink met the wall, which I removed.  I also worked a thin blade between the sink and the wall, cutting any caulk in there.  It doesn?t appear as thought the installer had the sink perfectly level and I don?t think there is any caulk on the left side of the sink. But. I think it is well glued by the caulk on the other three sides and I cannot get a blade in there to cut anything. The sink won?t budge.

The bathroom cabinet is floating and there is a clear shot between the bottom of the sink and the floor once the drawers have been removed.  I disconnected the drain and placed a floor jack under the sink (string on top of a couple of pieces of 1x8?s to protect the floor).  I placed a 2 ft long 4x4 under the drain hole of the sink, which is a flat area providing a good ?jacking point?.  I can?t say how much pressure I have on the sink at the moment, but it is enough that the 4x4 won?t budge.  But, the sink still hasn?t moved, no has the countertop, as far as I can tell.  My original hope was that the jack would either break the caulk bond free or at least raise the sink just enough to be able to cut the caulk with a thin blade. So far, that hasn?t been the case. 

For the moment, I am just leaving the jack in place with the sink under pressure, but I am very hesitant to put too much pressure on it.  The sink wasn?t all that expensive and I can always replace that if necessary but I really don?t want to break the countertop or risk damaging the floor.  Does anyone here have any suggestions?

Thanks,
Jim

From jamesf at groupwbench.org  Tue Feb  2 11:11:04 2021
From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2021 13:11:04 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Removing bathroom sink
In-Reply-To: <23ADD56D-B546-428B-A43C-EE4478D2B799@gmail.com>
References: <23ADD56D-B546-428B-A43C-EE4478D2B799@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <862D6547-D4F6-4B07-B91E-FBFE37B095E3@groupwbench.org>

Can you thread some stranded wire cable through the gaps you already cut, and slice the caulk with it? They sell some with handles for cutting PVC and windshield caulk. 

jim

> On Feb 2, 2021, at 12:59 PM, Jim Stone <1789alpine at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> I am planning on tiling the backsplash behind my bathroom sink and would like to put the tile behind the sink.  (The alternative is tiling around the sink, something I don?t think will look professional and will be a PITA.). The sink, a porcelain vessel-type basin (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LGKGIA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1), sits on top of a marble countertop.  The sink was caulked in place at the time of installation and the only thing holding it to the countertop is gravity and weight.  The only visible caulk was where the sink met the wall, which I removed.  I also worked a thin blade between the sink and the wall, cutting any caulk in there.  It doesn?t appear as thought the installer had the sink perfectly level and I don?t think there is any caulk on the left side of the sink. But. I think it is well glued by the caulk on the other three sides and I cannot get a blade in there to cut anything. The sink won?t budge.
> 
> The bathroom cabinet is floating and there is a clear shot between the bottom of the sink and the floor once the drawers have been removed.  I disconnected the drain and placed a floor jack under the sink (string on top of a couple of pieces of 1x8?s to protect the floor).  I placed a 2 ft long 4x4 under the drain hole of the sink, which is a flat area providing a good ?jacking point?.  I can?t say how much pressure I have on the sink at the moment, but it is enough that the 4x4 won?t budge.  But, the sink still hasn?t moved, no has the countertop, as far as I can tell.  My original hope was that the jack would either break the caulk bond free or at least raise the sink just enough to be able to cut the caulk with a thin blade. So far, that hasn?t been the case. 
> 
> For the moment, I am just leaving the jack in place with the sink under pressure, but I am very hesitant to put too much pressure on it.  The sink wasn?t all that expensive and I can always replace that if necessary but I really don?t want to break the countertop or risk damaging the floor.  Does anyone here have any suggestions?
> 
> Thanks,
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org
> 


From 1789alpine at gmail.com  Tue Feb  2 11:14:32 2021
From: 1789alpine at gmail.com (Jim Stone)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2021 13:14:32 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Removing bathroom sink
In-Reply-To: <862D6547-D4F6-4B07-B91E-FBFE37B095E3@groupwbench.org>
References: <23ADD56D-B546-428B-A43C-EE4478D2B799@gmail.com>
 <862D6547-D4F6-4B07-B91E-FBFE37B095E3@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <79B8E9EF-D403-4D6F-BD89-DDBFA0F5C0C3@gmail.com>

It is worth a try, but it would have to be something really thin.  I have a knife blade that isn?t much thicker than a couple of sheets of paper and I can?t get that in, other than the left side and behind the unit.  Too bad I don?t play the piano.

> On Feb 2, 2021, at 1:11 PM, Jim Franklin <jamesf at groupwbench.org> wrote:
> 
> Can you thread some stranded wire cable through the gaps you already cut, and slice the caulk with it? They sell some with handles for cutting PVC and windshield caulk. 
> 
> jim
> 
>> On Feb 2, 2021, at 12:59 PM, Jim Stone <1789alpine at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> I am planning on tiling the backsplash behind my bathroom sink and would like to put the tile behind the sink.  (The alternative is tiling around the sink, something I don?t think will look professional and will be a PITA.). The sink, a porcelain vessel-type basin (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LGKGIA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1), sits on top of a marble countertop.  The sink was caulked in place at the time of installation and the only thing holding it to the countertop is gravity and weight.  The only visible caulk was where the sink met the wall, which I removed.  I also worked a thin blade between the sink and the wall, cutting any caulk in there.  It doesn?t appear as thought the installer had the sink perfectly level and I don?t think there is any caulk on the left side of the sink. But. I think it is well glued by the caulk on the other three sides and I cannot get a blade in there to cut anything. The sink won?t budge.
>> 
>> The bathroom cabinet is floating and there is a clear shot between the bottom of the sink and the floor once the drawers have been removed.  I disconnected the drain and placed a floor jack under the sink (string on top of a couple of pieces of 1x8?s to protect the floor).  I placed a 2 ft long 4x4 under the drain hole of the sink, which is a flat area providing a good ?jacking point?.  I can?t say how much pressure I have on the sink at the moment, but it is enough that the 4x4 won?t budge.  But, the sink still hasn?t moved, no has the countertop, as far as I can tell.  My original hope was that the jack would either break the caulk bond free or at least raise the sink just enough to be able to cut the caulk with a thin blade. So far, that hasn?t been the case. 
>> 
>> For the moment, I am just leaving the jack in place with the sink under pressure, but I am very hesitant to put too much pressure on it.  The sink wasn?t all that expensive and I can always replace that if necessary but I really don?t want to break the countertop or risk damaging the floor.  Does anyone here have any suggestions?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Jim
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org
>> 
> 


From patintexas at icloud.com  Tue Feb  2 11:16:31 2021
From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2021 12:16:31 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Removing bathroom sink
In-Reply-To: <23ADD56D-B546-428B-A43C-EE4478D2B799@gmail.com>
References: <23ADD56D-B546-428B-A43C-EE4478D2B799@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20091FF3-F712-4128-A431-CA6F5499DEC0@icloud.com>

Might there be any bolts holding the sink to the wall? I doubt it but it is worth a check. 

You might try hitting the caulk with a hair dryer too. 

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne 
We support Habitat for Humanity


On Feb 2, 2021, at 12:01 PM, Jim Stone <1789alpine at gmail.com> wrote:

?I am planning on tiling the backsplash behind my bathroom sink and would like to put the tile behind the sink.  (The alternative is tiling around the sink, something I don?t think will look professional and will be a PITA.). The sink, a porcelain vessel-type basin (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LGKGIA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1), sits on top of a marble countertop.  The sink was caulked in place at the time of installation and the only thing holding it to the countertop is gravity and weight.  The only visible caulk was where the sink met the wall, which I removed.  I also worked a thin blade between the sink and the wall, cutting any caulk in there.  It doesn?t appear as thought the installer had the sink perfectly level and I don?t think there is any caulk on the left side of the sink. But. I think it is well glued by the caulk on the other three sides and I cannot get a blade in there to cut anything. The sink won?t budge.

The bathroom cabinet is floating and there is a clear shot between the bottom of the sink and the floor once the drawers have been removed.  I disconnected the drain and placed a floor jack under the sink (string on top of a couple of pieces of 1x8?s to protect the floor).  I placed a 2 ft long 4x4 under the drain hole of the sink, which is a flat area providing a good ?jacking point?.  I can?t say how much pressure I have on the sink at the moment, but it is enough that the 4x4 won?t budge.  But, the sink still hasn?t moved, no has the countertop, as far as I can tell.  My original hope was that the jack would either break the caulk bond free or at least raise the sink just enough to be able to cut the caulk with a thin blade. So far, that hasn?t been the case. 

For the moment, I am just leaving the jack in place with the sink under pressure, but I am very hesitant to put too much pressure on it.  The sink wasn?t all that expensive and I can always replace that if necessary but I really don?t want to break the countertop or risk damaging the floor.  Does anyone here have any suggestions?

Thanks,
Jim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

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From 1789alpine at gmail.com  Tue Feb  2 11:26:55 2021
From: 1789alpine at gmail.com (Jim Stone)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2021 13:26:55 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Removing bathroom sink
In-Reply-To: <20091FF3-F712-4128-A431-CA6F5499DEC0@icloud.com>
References: <23ADD56D-B546-428B-A43C-EE4478D2B799@gmail.com>
 <20091FF3-F712-4128-A431-CA6F5499DEC0@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <DCBF3969-741A-4B62-947C-94344E972E79@gmail.com>

The hair dryer is a very good idea.  Thanks.  But, I just got it!  After posting my comment about my really thin knife, I decided to give that one more try.  I was able to cut just through enough of the caulk on the left front that the pressure from the jack caused the whole thing to pop free enough to cut the remaining caulk.  One part of the job down!  

FWIW, I bought that knife about 35 years ago for a couple of bucks at Big Lots (back when Big Lots actually sold overstock and other buyouts) and it has been incredibly handy over the years.  I have no idea what it was supposed to be for, but it basically a putty knife shaped like a real knife.  I think I would make one if it ever broke.

Thanks again for the advice.  

Jim

> On Feb 2, 2021, at 1:16 PM, Pat Horne <patintexas at icloud.com> wrote:
> 
> Might there be any bolts holding the sink to the wall? I doubt it but it is worth a check. 
> 
> You might try hitting the caulk with a hair dryer too. 

> Peace,
> Pat
> 
> Pat Horne 
> We support Habitat for Humanity
> 
> 
> On Feb 2, 2021, at 12:01 PM, Jim Stone <1789alpine at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?I am planning on tiling the backsplash behind my bathroom sink and would like to put the tile behind the sink.  (The alternative is tiling around the sink, something I don?t think will look professional and will be a PITA.). The sink, a porcelain vessel-type basin (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LGKGIA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1), sits on top of a marble countertop.  The sink was caulked in place at the time of installation and the only thing holding it to the countertop is gravity and weight.  The only visible caulk was where the sink met the wall, which I removed.  I also worked a thin blade between the sink and the wall, cutting any caulk in there.  It doesn?t appear as thought the installer had the sink perfectly level and I don?t think there is any caulk on the left side of the sink. But. I think it is well glued by the caulk on the other three sides and I cannot get a blade in there to cut anything. The sink won?t budge.
> 
> The bathroom cabinet is floating and there is a clear shot between the bottom of the sink and the floor once the drawers have been removed.  I disconnected the drain and placed a floor jack under the sink (string on top of a couple of pieces of 1x8?s to protect the floor).  I placed a 2 ft long 4x4 under the drain hole of the sink, which is a flat area providing a good ?jacking point?.  I can?t say how much pressure I have on the sink at the moment, but it is enough that the 4x4 won?t budge.  But, the sink still hasn?t moved, no has the countertop, as far as I can tell.  My original hope was that the jack would either break the caulk bond free or at least raise the sink just enough to be able to cut the caulk with a thin blade. So far, that hasn?t been the case. 
> 
> For the moment, I am just leaving the jack in place with the sink under pressure, but I am very hesitant to put too much pressure on it.  The sink wasn?t all that expensive and I can always replace that if necessary but I really don?t want to break the countertop or risk damaging the floor.  Does anyone here have any suggestions?
> 
> Thanks,
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com
> 


From jniolon at att.net  Tue Feb  2 16:20:43 2021
From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2021 17:20:43 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] weird windshield wiper problem
References: <1UYtwRwitb.47u8mQqvIpV.ref@johns-desktop>
Message-ID: <1UYtwRwitb.47u8mQqvIpV@johns-desktop>

I installed Speciality Wipers in my  53 F-100 truck and of course it goes in up 
close to the windshield first and then everything is layered over it. It uses a 
cable/transmission arrangement the the motor (in the kick panel pushes and 
pulls the cable through a soft aluminum tube that actuates the wiper 
transmissions.
The motor end of the tube is flared and mounts in a slot in the motor housing.


well something got hung or fouled and causes a problem.. the cable fouled (or 
something) and when the motor pushed against the cable it had enough umph to 
push the cable and tubing out of the motor housing tearing the flare off and 
mangling the end of the tube. Seems a simple fix except to repair properly 
I'd have to remove the center console, remove the a/c cover place, remove the a/c-heater unit to get to the piece of tubing between the motor and the right hand transmission. That ain't 
gonna happen.

I have been able to cut the bad end of the tube and re-flare (that was fun 
...not) but when trying to put cable back in the tubing I found it was damaged 
enough that the cable 
won't pass easily... or actually at all... I need a way to get the tubing reshaped so the cable will slide easily thru it. I can only move the tube about 1" away from the motor...no way to remove the tube without removing all of the above stated.

I tried passing a 1/4" diameter rod thru and it works but when I try the actual size thru the tube (5/16") it binds up in the first two or three inches of the tube. I tried to tap a 5/16" rod thru the tube to stretch it back in shape but I have no way to hold the tube steady (one hand) hold the rod at the mouth of the tube (second hand) and tap the rod with a hammer (third hand) to reshape the tube. (and no room for a helper.) All while laying on my side between the seat and the door jamb. and working sideways toward the kick panel area. I'm 
looking for enlightenment and innovative solutions. Keep in mind that the 
interior is finished so heat is probably out of the question.  One idea 
I'm considering is a 5/16" drill bit up thru the tube to clear the obstruction ? if I can get the drill and drill motor in position to do that

this is where I'm 
working... and that little space is tough on an old  fat man with a bad hip and 
shoulders.   You guys are always coming up with genius solutions to hard 
problems...  dazzle me !!

   

john
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From patintexas at icloud.com  Tue Feb  2 16:47:11 2021
From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2021 17:47:11 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] weird windshield wiper problem
In-Reply-To: <1UYtwRwitb.47u8mQqvIpV@johns-desktop>
References: <1UYtwRwitb.47u8mQqvIpV@johns-desktop>
Message-ID: <9AD2D21A-5067-40D0-82B9-AF65645C8C4C@icloud.com>

John, seems like you?re caught between a rock and a hard place. 

Rather than running a drill in there I?d try something to swage the tubing, like a ball on the end of a flex shafting a sheath. I?d try to push the swage in, rather than rotate it. Something like an air chisel. Try going in with a 1/4? ball first, then move up to a larger one. If you can remove the motor you?ll have more room to work. 

If you decide to go with a drill, grind it so that the tip is larger than the shaft so you are only working with a small area. And run the drill backwards so you are reshaping rather than cutting. 

One other thought. First verify that there isn?t damage farther up the tube by pushing the cable in from the other end to see where it hangs. Cut the tube off above the tight spot, repair the tube, then splice it back in. 

Afterwards, be sure to apply copious amounts of beer or drink of your choice. 

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne 
We support Habitat for Humanity


On Feb 2, 2021, at 5:22 PM, john niolon <jniolon at att.net> wrote:

?
I installed Speciality Wipers in my  53 F-100 truck and of course it goes in up close to the windshield first and then everything is layered over it. It uses a cable/transmission arrangement the the motor (in the kick panel pushes and pulls the cable through a soft aluminum tube that actuates the wiper transmissions.
The motor end of the tube is flared and mounts in a slot in the motor housing.
<Img_1445a.jpg>
 
well something got hung or fouled and causes a problem.. the cable fouled (or something) and when the motor pushed against the cable it had enough umph to push the cable and tubing out of the motor housing tearing the flare off and mangling the end of the tube. Seems a simple fix except to repair properly I'd have to remove the center console, remove the a/c cover place, remove the a/c-heater unit to get to the piece of tubing between the motor and the right hand transmission. That ain't gonna happen.
 
I have been able to cut the bad end of the tube and re-flare (that was fun ...not) but when trying to put cable back in the tubing I found it was damaged enough that the cable won't pass easily... or actually at all... I need a way to get the tubing reshaped so the cable will slide easily thru it. I can only move the tube about 1" away from the motor...no way to remove the tube without removing all of the above stated.
 
I tried passing a 1/4" diameter rod thru and it works but when I try the actual size thru the tube (5/16") it binds up in the first two or three inches of the tube. I tried to tap a 5/16" rod thru the tube to stretch it back in shape but I have no way to hold the tube steady (one hand) hold the rod at the mouth of the tube (second hand) and tap the rod with a hammer (third hand) to reshape the tube. (and no room for a helper.) All while laying on my side between the seat and the door jamb. and working sideways toward the kick panel area. I'm looking for enlightenment and innovative solutions. Keep in mind that the interior is finished so heat is probably out of the question.  One idea I'm considering is a 5/16" drill bit up thru the tube to clear the obstruction ? if I can get the drill and drill motor in position to do that

this is where I'm working... and that little space is tough on an old  fat man with a bad hip and shoulders.   You guys are always coming up with genius solutions to hard problems...  dazzle me !!
 
<Img_1441.jpg>
  
<Img_0269b.jpg>
 
john
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

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From patintexas at icloud.com  Tue Feb  2 16:52:29 2021
From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2021 17:52:29 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] weird windshield wiper problem
In-Reply-To: <1UYtwRwitb.47u8mQqvIpV@johns-desktop>
References: <1UYtwRwitb.47u8mQqvIpV@johns-desktop>
Message-ID: <7700E7F2-F67E-46BD-B22F-489ECBB55438@icloud.com>

Another thought. If you can get to the spot where the damage is, try using your flare tool in small steps to see if you can work the tube back into shape. 

Instead of my suggestion of using a flex shaft to push the ball through the tube, try pulling it. Check out bicycle/motorcycle brake cables to see if they would work. 

Pat Horne 
We support Habitat for Humanity


On Feb 2, 2021, at 5:22 PM, john niolon <jniolon at att.net> wrote:

?
I installed Speciality Wipers in my  53 F-100 truck and of course it goes in up close to the windshield first and then everything is layered over it. It uses a cable/transmission arrangement the the motor (in the kick panel pushes and pulls the cable through a soft aluminum tube that actuates the wiper transmissions.
The motor end of the tube is flared and mounts in a slot in the motor housing.
<Img_1445a.jpg>
 
well something got hung or fouled and causes a problem.. the cable fouled (or something) and when the motor pushed against the cable it had enough umph to push the cable and tubing out of the motor housing tearing the flare off and mangling the end of the tube. Seems a simple fix except to repair properly I'd have to remove the center console, remove the a/c cover place, remove the a/c-heater unit to get to the piece of tubing between the motor and the right hand transmission. That ain't gonna happen.
 
I have been able to cut the bad end of the tube and re-flare (that was fun ...not) but when trying to put cable back in the tubing I found it was damaged enough that the cable won't pass easily... or actually at all... I need a way to get the tubing reshaped so the cable will slide easily thru it. I can only move the tube about 1" away from the motor...no way to remove the tube without removing all of the above stated.
 
I tried passing a 1/4" diameter rod thru and it works but when I try the actual size thru the tube (5/16") it binds up in the first two or three inches of the tube. I tried to tap a 5/16" rod thru the tube to stretch it back in shape but I have no way to hold the tube steady (one hand) hold the rod at the mouth of the tube (second hand) and tap the rod with a hammer (third hand) to reshape the tube. (and no room for a helper.) All while laying on my side between the seat and the door jamb. and working sideways toward the kick panel area. I'm looking for enlightenment and innovative solutions. Keep in mind that the interior is finished so heat is probably out of the question.  One idea I'm considering is a 5/16" drill bit up thru the tube to clear the obstruction ? if I can get the drill and drill motor in position to do that

this is where I'm working... and that little space is tough on an old  fat man with a bad hip and shoulders.   You guys are always coming up with genius solutions to hard problems...  dazzle me !!
 
<Img_1441.jpg>
  
<Img_0269b.jpg>
 
john
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

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From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com  Thu Feb  4 08:10:10 2021
From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott Hall)
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2021 09:10:10 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Air impact dead?
In-Reply-To: <CAG1pxgYqQETQgs_3GxX6kEqz5N+GaCQE1wAjD6gTjaygUF8RWg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAK73_u6nZJr=CEPEWs_93hrHKd+nhMe+W3AfC=M4pfXaHbEkmQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAG1pxgYqQETQgs_3GxX6kEqz5N+GaCQE1wAjD6gTjaygUF8RWg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAK73_u71-uqZ2Vnh0i_6gfBNcEjNGF3OaEH=noQASr2itSxtXg@mail.gmail.com>

Following up:

There was nothing wrong with the wrench.

The female quick-disconnect at the compressor wasn't seating correctly
which wasn't allowing full air flow to the tool.

When I pushed in the hose to connect it, the hose connected and wasn't
hissing. If you grab the male fitting and force it another half-inch or so
into the female fitting, you get normal function.

I don't know if the fitting itself is defective or if I bought the wrong
fitting. They're all Harbor Freight 'industrial'-type fittings....which
might answer my question for me.

On a side note, I've never tried to use an air tool with a small tank...and
I won't be trying any more. This may be the excuse to buy the Quincy I've
always wanted.

Scott

On Fri, Jan 22, 2021 at 12:43 PM old dirtbeard <dirtbeard at gmail.com> wrote:

> I have seen this with seldom used air impact wrenches. The air paddles in
> the motor get stuck in their slots and will not seal. You will hear the air
> escaping from the wrench, but with little movement or power.
>
> You could try to squirt some air tool oil in it, spin it just a little to
> spread it around the paddles, let it set for a few hours and try it again
> to see if it free the paddles before you open it up.
>
> best,
>
> doug
>
> On Fri, Jan 22, 2021 at 10:08 AM Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> IR2131 - 1/2" impact.
>>
>> It's maybe 20 years old. Been used maybe half a dozen times in twenty
>> years (it has a brother that gets used usually) and has lived a coddled
>> life in a padded tool drawer. Not even really dusty.
>>
>> Tried it the other day and it acts like there's no air in the compressor.
>> Turns really slow with no power at all. Not even a first good smack.
>>
>> I'm trying to use it with a portable roofing compressor (the two long
>> tanks, maybe three gallon capacity), but it puts out 100+ p.s.i. and it
>> filled up.
>>
>> Should I try to take it (the wrench) apart and see if something's in the
>> passages? Do they just wear out over time, even if not used? Might the
>> compressor be too small? My only thought is maybe a wasp got into it and
>> made a nest somewhere in there. I don't *see* anything, but...
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com  Thu Feb  4 08:14:46 2021
From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott Hall)
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2021 09:14:46 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Torque wrenches
Message-ID: <CAK73_u5-AyA_LvFC-L5B1bca9FDOK7+V=jmD2XOwQH+a25e+Lw@mail.gmail.com>

I need a new torque wrench. The last time I bought one was 25 years ago--a
Snap-On 1/2" dial model.

I don't expect to ever need to buy another one, and I want to like using
it/them.

What's the current opinion on type and model? I don't think I want
beam-type, and I never trusted my clicker 3/8" one, but here's my shot to
buy my last torque wrench(es, I should probably get 1/4 - 1/2").

Scott
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From jdinnis at gmail.com  Thu Feb  4 08:56:18 2021
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2021 09:56:18 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Torque wrenches
In-Reply-To: <CAK73_u5-AyA_LvFC-L5B1bca9FDOK7+V=jmD2XOwQH+a25e+Lw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAK73_u5-AyA_LvFC-L5B1bca9FDOK7+V=jmD2XOwQH+a25e+Lw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANuE7YDqH6HGxmMRp7W-jkBuuKMvX3jTjbVy3gmHoMj=Usns8g@mail.gmail.com>

Here are my thoughts on torque wrenches.  I bought my first "clicker"
torque wrench in 1997.  Actually two of them, a 3/8" inch-pond and a 1/2"
foot-pound.  Both Craftsman.  I was in A&P school at the time and we
checked calibration on our torque wrenches at least once a year.  The
duration of my time in school I never needed to adjust the calibration on
these.  There was one thing about these that I always hated.  The lowest
rating on the foot-pound wrench was 20 (240in/lb), and the highest rating
on the inch-pound wrench was 225.  So there was a range of 15 in/lbs
between the two wrenches that I could not reliably measure.  Added to the
fact that I was sceptical of both wrenches at the very ends of their range
(they were always calibrated at midpoint).  That1/2" unit failed in 2015
and I bought a CDI 1/2" 10-100 foot-pound unit to replace it.  I took the
CDI unit to work and checked calibration on it when I bought it, and it was
dead on at center of range.  I have been pretty happy with this unit and it
fits the range of torque values a lot better than the craftsman I had
before.  Aside from a trailer ball I don't think I have ever torqued
anything to more than 100ft/pounds.  I still have that 3/8" craftsman, and
I have checked it on home-made calibration tester and it still seems to be
pretty close to accurate at mid-range.  But I like the CDI a lot better and
if I need another I will probably buy another CDI.  I was told that CDI is
the company that builds wrenches for Snap-On, but I have no way to confirm
this.

On Thu, Feb 4, 2021 at 9:30 AM Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I need a new torque wrench. The last time I bought one was 25 years ago--a
> Snap-On 1/2" dial model.
>
> I don't expect to ever need to buy another one, and I want to like using
> it/them.
>
> What's the current opinion on type and model? I don't think I want
> beam-type, and I never trusted my clicker 3/8" one, but here's my shot to
> buy my last torque wrench(es, I should probably get 1/4 - 1/2").
>
> Scott
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================
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From parkanzky at gmail.com  Thu Feb  4 09:12:23 2021
From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky)
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2021 11:12:23 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Torque wrenches
In-Reply-To: <CAK73_u5-AyA_LvFC-L5B1bca9FDOK7+V=jmD2XOwQH+a25e+Lw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAK73_u5-AyA_LvFC-L5B1bca9FDOK7+V=jmD2XOwQH+a25e+Lw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAOErii=8mxMVU2071ytbESgWkBnQAUf+fngfKyHuutMeqekmJw@mail.gmail.com>

Much like you, I bought a really nice Proto 1/2" dial torque wrench when I
was outfitting my shop. While I trust it completely, appreciate the
quality, and generally just like owning it, I also get annoyed every time I
use it for something simple like torquing wheel bolts where I don't really
care if it's off by 10% or where I am working under a car at a strange
angle and can't see the dial. I've been hanging out in a couple friend's
shops. One has a few Snap-On clickers and the other has a couple of the HF
cheapies and they're both handier and plenty "good enough" for my purposes.
So I've been planning to buy a couple of Tekton clickers next time I see
them on-sale at the local Meijer. They're not heirloom quality, but they're
cheap, get the job done for me, and are actually more convenient than what
I have.

I've also tried the digital torque wrenches that vibrate or whatever and I
don't really care for those. The mechanical "click" is great feedback and
where I'm going from here for all my torque-setting needs.

-Paul

On Thu, Feb 4, 2021 at 10:30 AM Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I need a new torque wrench. The last time I bought one was 25 years ago--a
> Snap-On 1/2" dial model.
>
> I don't expect to ever need to buy another one, and I want to like using
> it/them.
>
> What's the current opinion on type and model? I don't think I want
> beam-type, and I never trusted my clicker 3/8" one, but here's my shot to
> buy my last torque wrench(es, I should probably get 1/4 - 1/2").
>
> Scott
>
>
>
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From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Thu Feb  4 10:06:52 2021
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Benjamin Zwissler)
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2021 12:06:52 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Torque wrenches
In-Reply-To: <CAK73_u5-AyA_LvFC-L5B1bca9FDOK7+V=jmD2XOwQH+a25e+Lw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAK73_u5-AyA_LvFC-L5B1bca9FDOK7+V=jmD2XOwQH+a25e+Lw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAMHq6ZxLNWTOxATCi4_DsnJm47jzwmS-sAp8imwSOV_zxg=zeA@mail.gmail.com>

I really like the clicker style though it took me 20 years to give up my
old beam and needle wrench.  I bought two Tekton units and found them to be
way out of spec quickly and I really didn't like the micrometer style,
twist adjustment.  One of my sons worked at a tire store and they used dual
beam clickers from Precision Instruments.  They are great and priced
moderately at about $100 for the 3/8" and $130 for the 1/2".  I'm told they
make SnapOn branded torque wrenches and they look the same for double the
price.

Looking into the differences the Precision Instrument wrenches are "dual
beam" which means there's one beam attached to the handle and one floating
as a reference to create the click.   Both are inside the handle and torque
selector knob adjusts the amount of deflection required to click. Because
its a beam style wrench calibration should not be required.  They also
don't require you to return to zero to maintain the calibration.

Anyway, my two cents.

Ben


Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com
812-343-5533
Columbus, IN


On Thu, Feb 4, 2021 at 10:30 AM Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I need a new torque wrench. The last time I bought one was 25 years ago--a
> Snap-On 1/2" dial model.
>
> I don't expect to ever need to buy another one, and I want to like using
> it/them.
>
> What's the current opinion on type and model? I don't think I want
> beam-type, and I never trusted my clicker 3/8" one, but here's my shot to
> buy my last torque wrench(es, I should probably get 1/4 - 1/2").
>
> Scott
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler at gmail.com
>
>
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From ejrussell61 at gmail.com  Thu Feb  4 10:30:42 2021
From: ejrussell61 at gmail.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2021 12:30:42 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Torque wrenches
In-Reply-To: <CAMHq6ZxLNWTOxATCi4_DsnJm47jzwmS-sAp8imwSOV_zxg=zeA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAK73_u5-AyA_LvFC-L5B1bca9FDOK7+V=jmD2XOwQH+a25e+Lw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAMHq6ZxLNWTOxATCi4_DsnJm47jzwmS-sAp8imwSOV_zxg=zeA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAP7dBXAWEDveynZf3UjjmwmbPz=HUUtEqWrBHvV5sLJUSeC_sw@mail.gmail.com>

I have an old (1970's vintage) Craftsman beam type torque wrench. The
advantage is that it should never go out of calibration. The downside is
one has to be able view the scale straight on. I use it for cylinder heads
where I can easily see the scale and want to be sure of the accuracy. I
also have a Craftsman clicker (1990's vintage) that is useful for
situations where I can't easily see the beam wrench's scale. I carefully
store it and use the beam wrench to check its accuracy.

I also have a couple of cheap Harbor Freight clickers. Those go in my
travelling tool box that I take to the race track. They are accurate (!)
and I use them for things like lug nuts where I only want to know that they
are approximately torqued (wheels falling off are frowned upon). And if
they should get stolen or lost I wouldn't have to eat PB&J for a week or
two.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

On Thu, Feb 4, 2021 at 12:14 PM Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I really like the clicker style though it took me 20 years to give up my
> old beam and needle wrench.  I bought two Tekton units and found them to be
> way out of spec quickly and I really didn't like the micrometer style,
> twist adjustment.  One of my sons worked at a tire store and they used dual
> beam clickers from Precision Instruments.  They are great and priced
> moderately at about $100 for the 3/8" and $130 for the 1/2".  I'm told they
> make SnapOn branded torque wrenches and they look the same for double the
> price.
>
> Looking into the differences the Precision Instrument wrenches are "dual
> beam" which means there's one beam attached to the handle and one floating
> as a reference to create the click.   Both are inside the handle and torque
> selector knob adjusts the amount of deflection required to click. Because
> its a beam style wrench calibration should not be required.  They also
> don't require you to return to zero to maintain the calibration.
>
> Anyway, my two cents.
>
> Ben
>
>
> Ben Zwissler
> bjzwissler at gmail.com
> 812-343-5533
> Columbus, IN
>
>
> On Thu, Feb 4, 2021 at 10:30 AM Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> I need a new torque wrench. The last time I bought one was 25 years
>> ago--a Snap-On 1/2" dial model.
>>
>> I don't expect to ever need to buy another one, and I want to like using
>> it/them.
>>
>> What's the current opinion on type and model? I don't think I want
>> beam-type, and I never trusted my clicker 3/8" one, but here's my shot to
>> buy my last torque wrench(es, I should probably get 1/4 - 1/2").
>>
>> Scott
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ejrussell61 at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
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From jmitch at snet.net  Thu Feb  4 19:41:37 2021
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2021 21:41:37 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Air impact dead?
In-Reply-To: <CAK73_u71-uqZ2Vnh0i_6gfBNcEjNGF3OaEH=noQASr2itSxtXg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAK73_u6nZJr=CEPEWs_93hrHKd+nhMe+W3AfC=M4pfXaHbEkmQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAG1pxgYqQETQgs_3GxX6kEqz5N+GaCQE1wAjD6gTjaygUF8RWg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAK73_u71-uqZ2Vnh0i_6gfBNcEjNGF3OaEH=noQASr2itSxtXg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <286292f3-722e-021e-5675-d117f0d9baaa@snet.net>

If your going to replace the quick connects, Devilbiss makes awesome 
high flow units.? If you compare the openings, you'll see a huge difference.

On 2/4/2021 10:10 AM, Scott Hall wrote:
> Following up:
>
> There was nothing wrong with the wrench.
>
> The female quick-disconnect at the compressor wasn't seating correctly 
> which wasn't allowing full air flow to the tool.
>
> When I pushed in the hose to connect it, the hose connected and wasn't 
> hissing. If you grab the male fitting and force it another half-inch 
> or so into the female fitting, you get normal function.
>
> I don't know if the fitting itself is defective or if I bought the 
> wrong fitting. They're all Harbor Freight 'industrial'-type 
> fittings....which might answer?my question for me.
>
> On a side note, I've never tried to use an air tool with a small 
> tank...and I won't be trying any more. This may be the excuse to buy 
> the Quincy I've always?wanted.
>
> Scott
>
> On Fri, Jan 22, 2021 at 12:43 PM old dirtbeard <dirtbeard at gmail.com 
> <mailto:dirtbeard at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>     I have seen this with seldom used air impact wrenches. The air
>     paddles in the motor get stuck in their slots and will not seal.
>     You will hear the air escaping from the wrench, but with little
>     movement or power.
>
>     You could try to squirt some air tool oil in it, spin it just a
>     little to spread it around the paddles, let it set for a few hours
>     and try it again to see if it free the paddles before you open it up.
>
>     best,
>
>     doug
>
>     On Fri, Jan 22, 2021 at 10:08 AM Scott Hall
>     <scott.hall.personal at gmail.com
>     <mailto:scott.hall.personal at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>         IR2131 - 1/2" impact.
>
>         It's maybe 20 years old. Been used maybe half a dozen times in
>         twenty years (it has a brother that gets used usually) and has
>         lived a coddled life in a padded tool drawer. Not even really
>         dusty.
>
>         Tried it the other day and it acts like there's no air in the
>         compressor. Turns really slow with no power at all. Not even a
>         first good smack.
>
>         I'm trying to use it with a portable roofing compressor (the
>         two long tanks, maybe three gallon capacity), but it puts out
>         100+ p.s.i. and it filled up.
>
>         Should I try to take it (the wrench) apart and see if
>         something's in the passages? Do they just wear out over time,
>         even if not used? Might the compressor be too small? My only
>         thought is maybe a wasp got into it and made a nest somewhere
>         in there. I don't *see* anything, but...
>         _______________________________________________
>
>         Shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
>         Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>         <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>         Suggested annual donation? $12.96
>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>         <http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk>
>         http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>
>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com
>         <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jmitch at snet.net
>
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From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Thu Feb  4 20:06:40 2021
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2021 21:06:40 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Torque wrenches
In-Reply-To: <CANuE7YDqH6HGxmMRp7W-jkBuuKMvX3jTjbVy3gmHoMj=Usns8g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAK73_u5-AyA_LvFC-L5B1bca9FDOK7+V=jmD2XOwQH+a25e+Lw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANuE7YDqH6HGxmMRp7W-jkBuuKMvX3jTjbVy3gmHoMj=Usns8g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CA+k5suqPNLB8TtUzQXdN1CJjaM=PZ3+j_4TjTSx6bPOOehuZqw@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, Feb 4, 2021 at 9:58 AM John Innis <jdinnis at gmail.com> wrote:
>But I like the CDI a lot better and if I need another I will probably buy another CDI.  I was told that CDI is the company that builds wrenches for Snap-On, but I have no way to confirm this.

Snap-on owns CDI.  Most current CDI offerings have an imported ratchet
head, even on the models where the torque tool is US.  Thje snap-on
versions have US made ratchet heads.

I have a 3/8" drive cdi, 10 to 80 ft-lbs, that dates from the mid 80s.
That's pre snap-on acquisition.    I bought it new old stock a couple
years ago.  works great, accurate when tested at purchase.  I could
wish it had a few more teeth on th ratchet, but that's not a huge
deal.

Norbar also makes very nice torque wrenches; many are made in England.

If I were buying torque wrenches today, I'd look at ones with angle
gauges.  Torque plus angle bolts re becoming much more common.

--
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From eric at megageek.com  Fri Feb  5 05:24:44 2021
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2021 07:24:44 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Air impact dead?
In-Reply-To: <286292f3-722e-021e-5675-d117f0d9baaa@snet.net>
References: <CAK73_u6nZJr=CEPEWs_93hrHKd+nhMe+W3AfC=M4pfXaHbEkmQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAG1pxgYqQETQgs_3GxX6kEqz5N+GaCQE1wAjD6gTjaygUF8RWg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAK73_u71-uqZ2Vnh0i_6gfBNcEjNGF3OaEH=noQASr2itSxtXg@mail.gmail.com>
 <286292f3-722e-021e-5675-d117f0d9baaa@snet.net>
Message-ID: <OF93B2876E.FFEFA705-ON85258673.00437009-85258673.00442FF8@mail.megageek.com>

If you are going to replace your connectors (and I'm not trying to start a 
thread or anything,) but I switched to these Milton's and they are 
AWESOME!

https://www.harryepstein.com/milton-s-99705-safety-coupler.html

They have a button that releases the pressure before the tool is released. 
 Then you press it again and it just comes apart without any force.  I 
switched every hose and outlet I have to them and I never looked back. The 
only thing is after a lot of use (read <year or so>), you need to put a 
drop or two of lube in them to smooth them out again.

Also, the link is for a US company that is a great place to support.  I 
also recommending getting the free 'boxart' with any order.  I think I 
posted here before but if not, here are some samples I got...

(I didn't tinyurl them so you know they are safe.)

https://www.megageek.com/photo/photoa~1.nsf/a7ffeab012bbfb5b85256eb1007ca7f6/7a51a4095e7895b28525840200422d60?OpenDocument

https://www.megageek.com/photo/photoa~1.nsf/a7ffeab012bbfb5b85256eb1007ca7f6/5a228fab11dfc14b852584090000b430?OpenDocument

https://www.megageek.com/photo/photoa~1.nsf/a7ffeab012bbfb5b85256eb1007ca7f6/4a6004f30a113816852583fa0040eaab?OpenDocument

All of these are framed and on the wall in my office!  I often look for 
specials on 'large' items so I can get a big one painted!

Emmet,the artist enjoys doing them and I love them!





"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?
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From eric at megageek.com  Fri Feb  5 06:04:45 2021
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2021 08:04:45 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacement  florescent bulbs F42T6
Message-ID: <OFB468CF2F.FF52C65B-ON85258673.0046FBB5-85258673.0047D9DD@mail.megageek.com>

Ok, this is a literal 'shop talk' problem, as this bulb is in a showcase 
in my shop (antique and collectables shop)  8>)  I hope there are no 
problems posting it here.  But I know there is better knowledge here than 
me.

So, this showcase has a florescent light bulb F42T6.  (42" and T6 
diameter.)  Which is a weird size length and very narrow, so I can't get a 
bigger diameter bulb.

Now, this bulb seems to only be available by price gougers, (Chosen Supply 
has them for a mere $2,443.92.) 

Since this is in a active store and I can't easily remove the display case 
to modify it to fit something else, is there any other alternative for me?

What I was thinking is they may be a LED replacement bulb that will fit or 
something?  Anyone know of such a replacement?  Or a quick and easy drop 
in replacement mount?

Also, I may be closing the store in the next 6 months, so I don't want to 
dump tons of cash into this.

BTW, if any of you are in NJ and check it out and see something you like 
in there, call me (number is on the wall) and it's yours for free! (I need 
to move inventory!)

Thanks.


"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?
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From tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com  Fri Feb  5 06:08:00 2021
From: tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com (Tim .)
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2021 13:08:00 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] Removing bathroom sink
In-Reply-To: <20091FF3-F712-4128-A431-CA6F5499DEC0@icloud.com>
References: <23ADD56D-B546-428B-A43C-EE4478D2B799@gmail.com>,
 <20091FF3-F712-4128-A431-CA6F5499DEC0@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <DS7PR19MB46299D7B1773AC0DE0224338B4B29@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>

"...try hitting the caulk with a hair dryer too."

Or a heat gun.

________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Pat Horne <patintexas at icloud.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 2, 2021 12:16 PM
To: Jim Stone <1789alpine at gmail.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Removing bathroom sink

Might there be any bolts holding the sink to the wall? I doubt it but it is worth a check.

You might try hitting the caulk with a hair dryer too.

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne
We support Habitat for Humanity


On Feb 2, 2021, at 12:01 PM, Jim Stone <1789alpine at gmail.com> wrote:

?I am planning on tiling the backsplash behind my bathroom sink and would like to put the tile behind the sink.  (The alternative is tiling around the sink, something I don?t think will look professional and will be a PITA.). The sink, a porcelain vessel-type basin (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LGKGIA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1), sits on top of a marble countertop.  The sink was caulked in place at the time of installation and the only thing holding it to the countertop is gravity and weight.  The only visible caulk was where the sink met the wall, which I removed.  I also worked a thin blade between the sink and the wall, cutting any caulk in there.  It doesn?t appear as thought the installer had the sink perfectly level and I don?t think there is any caulk on the left side of the sink. But. I think it is well glued by the caulk on the other three sides and I cannot get a blade in there to cut anything. The sink won?t budge.

The bathroom cabinet is floating and there is a clear shot between the bottom of the sink and the floor once the drawers have been removed.  I disconnected the drain and placed a floor jack under the sink (string on top of a couple of pieces of 1x8?s to protect the floor).  I placed a 2 ft long 4x4 under the drain hole of the sink, which is a flat area providing a good ?jacking point?.  I can?t say how much pressure I have on the sink at the moment, but it is enough that the 4x4 won?t budge.  But, the sink still hasn?t moved, no has the countertop, as far as I can tell.  My original hope was that the jack would either break the caulk bond free or at least raise the sink just enough to be able to cut the caulk with a thin blade. So far, that hasn?t been the case.

For the moment, I am just leaving the jack in place with the sink under pressure, but I am very hesitant to put too much pressure on it.  The sink wasn?t all that expensive and I can always replace that if necessary but I really don?t want to break the countertop or risk damaging the floor.  Does anyone here have any suggestions?

Thanks,
Jim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Feb  5 21:20:08 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2021 20:20:08 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacement florescent bulbs F42T6
In-Reply-To: <OFB468CF2F.FF52C65B-ON85258673.0046FBB5-85258673.0047D9DD@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OFB468CF2F.FF52C65B-ON85258673.0046FBB5-85258673.0047D9DD@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <7f738e2f-870e-0871-9451-784a1b0d3dd9@comcast.net>

$2.67 work for you?

https://www.grainger.com/product/GE-LIGHTING-Fluorescent-Linear-Lamp-3V633

They'll probably charge $1,000 shipping ;)


On 2/5/2021 5:04 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote:
> Ok, this is a literal 'shop talk' problem, as this bulb is in a 
> showcase in my shop (antique and collectables shop) ?8>) ?I hope there 
> are no problems posting it here. ?But I know there is better knowledge 
> here than me.
>
> So, this showcase has a florescent light bulb F42T6. ?(42" and T6 
> diameter.) ?Which is a weird size length and very narrow, so I can't 
> get a bigger diameter bulb.
>
> Now, this bulb seems to only be available by price gougers, (Chosen 
> Supply has them for a mere $2,443.92.)
>
> Since this is in a active store and I can't easily remove the display 
> case to modify it to fit something else, is there any other 
> alternative for me?
>
> What I was thinking is they may be a LED replacement bulb that will 
> fit or something? ?Anyone know of such a replacement? ?Or a quick and 
> easy drop in replacement mount?
>
> Also, I may be closing the store in the next 6 months, so I don't want 
> to dump tons of cash into this.
>
> BTW, if any of you are in NJ and check it out and see something you 
> like in there, call me (number is on the wall) and it's yours for 
> free! (I need to move inventory!)
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a 
> rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your 
> territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt?

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From parkanzky at gmail.com  Fri Feb  5 21:28:20 2021
From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky)
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2021 23:28:20 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacement  florescent bulbs F42T6
In-Reply-To: <OFB468CF2F.FF52C65B-ON85258673.0046FBB5-85258673.0047D9DD@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OFB468CF2F.FF52C65B-ON85258673.0046FBB5-85258673.0047D9DD@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <7E231156-6F72-46CB-A403-A2893EA84DB0@gmail.com>

They say this is a direct replacement:

NYLL - (Pack of 2) Single Pin FA8 Base 42 Inch Plug & Play LED Tube - T6 LED Directly Relamp 25W 42" Fluorescent Bulb F42T6 (Without Rewiring or Modification) - Ballast Required! (Daylight (5000K)) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B088FSTPX4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_J3J63CZD7TMEYDHGW8E8?psc=1

$60 plus shipping a pair isn?t exactly cheap, but it feels cheap compared to $2400+...

-Paul

> On Feb 5, 2021, at 11:15 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote:
> 
> ?Ok, this is a literal 'shop talk' problem, as this bulb is in a showcase in my shop (antique and collectables shop)  8>)  I hope there are no problems posting it here.  But I know there is better knowledge here than me. 
> 
> So, this showcase has a florescent light bulb F42T6.  (42" and T6 diameter.)  Which is a weird size length and very narrow, so I can't get a bigger diameter bulb. 
> 
> Now, this bulb seems to only be available by price gougers, (Chosen Supply has them for a mere $2,443.92.)   
> 
> Since this is in a active store and I can't easily remove the display case to modify it to fit something else, is there any other alternative for me? 
> 
> What I was thinking is they may be a LED replacement bulb that will fit or something?  Anyone know of such a replacement?  Or a quick and easy drop in replacement mount? 
> 
> Also, I may be closing the store in the next 6 months, so I don't want to dump tons of cash into this. 
> 
> BTW, if any of you are in NJ and check it out and see something you like in there, call me (number is on the wall) and it's yours for free! (I need to move inventory!) 
> 
> Thanks. 
> 
> 
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson 
> -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky at gmail.com
> 
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Feb  5 23:32:18 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2021 22:32:18 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacement florescent bulbs F42T6
In-Reply-To: <7E231156-6F72-46CB-A403-A2893EA84DB0@gmail.com>
References: <OFB468CF2F.FF52C65B-ON85258673.0046FBB5-85258673.0047D9DD@mail.megageek.com>
 <7E231156-6F72-46CB-A403-A2893EA84DB0@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <cf5dba44-6971-ff43-1edc-55834703ec2b@comcast.net>

re: "They say this is a direct replacement"

/Probably/ not. NOTE: "Ballast Required!"? I re-wired some old-school 
fluorescent fixtures for LED 'tubes,' and had to replace the old 
ballasts (purchased from Lowe's @ about $20ea). I hate ballasts, I hope 
the solid state ones last longer than the analog. Sometimes, it's 
cheaper to buy a whole new fixture, with ballast, than buy a ballast and 
install it (if you count your time as a cost).

TL;DR: I don't think analog ballasts work with LEDs, but I've not tried it.

Bob


On 2/5/2021 8:28 PM, Paul Parkanzky wrote:
> They say this is a direct replacement:
>
> NYLL - (Pack of 2) Single Pin FA8 Base 42 Inch Plug & Play LED Tube - 
> T6 LED Directly Relamp 25W 42" Fluorescent Bulb F42T6 (Without 
> Rewiring or Modification) - Ballast Required! (Daylight (5000K)) 
> https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B088FSTPX4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_J3J63CZD7TMEYDHGW8E8?psc=1
>
> $60 plus shipping a pair isn?t exactly cheap, but it feels cheap 
> compared to $2400+...
>
> -Paul
>
>> On Feb 5, 2021, at 11:15 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote:
>>
>> ?Ok, this is a literal 'shop talk' problem, as this bulb is in a 
>> showcase in my shop (antique and collectables shop) ?8>) ?I hope 
>> there are no problems posting it here. ?But I know there is better 
>> knowledge here than me.
>>
>> So, this showcase has a florescent light bulb F42T6. ?(42" and T6 
>> diameter.) ?Which is a weird size length and very narrow, so I can't 
>> get a bigger diameter bulb.
>>
>> Now, this bulb seems to only be available by price gougers, (Chosen 
>> Supply has them for a mere $2,443.92.)
>>
>> Since this is in a active store and I can't easily remove the display 
>> case to modify it to fit something else, is there any other 
>> alternative for me?
>>
>> What I was thinking is they may be a LED replacement bulb that will 
>> fit or something? ?Anyone know of such a replacement? ?Or a quick and 
>> easy drop in replacement mount?
>>
>> Also, I may be closing the store in the next 6 months, so I don't 
>> want to dump tons of cash into this.
>>
>> BTW, if any of you are in NJ and check it out and see something you 
>> like in there, call me (number is on the wall) and it's yours for 
>> free! (I need to move inventory!)
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>>
>> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a 
>> rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your 
>> territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson
>> -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation ?$12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk 
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky at gmail.com
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bspidell at comcast.net
>

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From eric at megageek.com  Sat Feb  6 04:56:49 2021
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2021 06:56:49 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacement florescent bulbs F42T6
In-Reply-To: <7f738e2f-870e-0871-9451-784a1b0d3dd9@comcast.net>
References: <OFB468CF2F.FF52C65B-ON85258673.0046FBB5-85258673.0047D9DD@mail.megageek.com>
 <7f738e2f-870e-0871-9451-784a1b0d3dd9@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <OF45E427A8.4686B481-ON85258674.0040ED56-85258674.0041A174@mail.megageek.com>

Bob comes in with...

>$2.67 work for you? 
>
https://www.grainger.com/product/GE-LIGHTING-Fluorescent-Linear-Lamp-3V633
>They'll probably charge $1,000 shipping ;)

WOW, this would be perfect, but I have to buy 24!  UGGH.  (I didn't even 
look at the shipping yet.)

I tried to buy the 24.  I figured I'd  use one and sell the rest for $100 
a piece, I'd still be the cheapest price on amazon!  8>)  (actually, I was 
going to sell them for about $20 or so a piece)
But Granger is 'out of stock!'

Why do companies list items they can't sell?

Thanks for finding that Bob however!


"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?
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From parkanzky at gmail.com  Sat Feb  6 05:20:13 2021
From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2021 07:20:13 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacement florescent bulbs F42T6
In-Reply-To: <cf5dba44-6971-ff43-1edc-55834703ec2b@comcast.net>
References: <cf5dba44-6971-ff43-1edc-55834703ec2b@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <DEEEB07D-A576-4949-8CCF-34EC4627DAD6@gmail.com>

I bought LED tubes from Lowe?s to replace a couple of 4? fluorescent lights in an old fixture in my cottage. I was skeptical and assumed I?d be taking them back and buying a new LED fixture but I put them in and they worked great. These even had a switch on the end to choose the color temperature.

No idea if that means Eric will have the same experience with these.

-Paul

> On Feb 6, 2021, at 1:57 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> ? re: "They say this is a direct replacement"
> 
> Probably not. NOTE: "Ballast Required!"  I re-wired some old-school fluorescent fixtures for LED 'tubes,' and had to replace the old ballasts (purchased from Lowe's @ about $20ea). I hate ballasts, I hope the solid state ones last longer than the analog. Sometimes, it's cheaper to buy a whole new fixture, with ballast, than buy a ballast and install it (if you count your time as a cost).
> 
> TL;DR: I don't think analog ballasts work with LEDs, but I've not tried it.
> 
> Bob
>  
> 
> On 2/5/2021 8:28 PM, Paul Parkanzky wrote:
>> They say this is a direct replacement:
>> 
>> NYLL - (Pack of 2) Single Pin FA8 Base 42 Inch Plug & Play LED Tube - T6 LED Directly Relamp 25W 42" Fluorescent Bulb F42T6 (Without Rewiring or Modification) - Ballast Required! (Daylight (5000K)) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B088FSTPX4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_J3J63CZD7TMEYDHGW8E8?psc=1
>> 
>> $60 plus shipping a pair isn?t exactly cheap, but it feels cheap compared to $2400+...
>> 
>> -Paul
>> 
>>> On Feb 5, 2021, at 11:15 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote:
>>> 
>>> ?Ok, this is a literal 'shop talk' problem, as this bulb is in a showcase in my shop (antique and collectables shop)  8>)  I hope there are no problems posting it here.  But I know there is better knowledge here than me. 
>>> 
>>> So, this showcase has a florescent light bulb F42T6.  (42" and T6 diameter.)  Which is a weird size length and very narrow, so I can't get a bigger diameter bulb. 
>>> 
>>> Now, this bulb seems to only be available by price gougers, (Chosen Supply has them for a mere $2,443.92.)   
>>> 
>>> Since this is in a active store and I can't easily remove the display case to modify it to fit something else, is there any other alternative for me? 
>>> 
>>> What I was thinking is they may be a LED replacement bulb that will fit or something?  Anyone know of such a replacement?  Or a quick and easy drop in replacement mount? 
>>> 
>>> Also, I may be closing the store in the next 6 months, so I don't want to dump tons of cash into this. 
>>> 
>>> BTW, if any of you are in NJ and check it out and see something you like in there, call me (number is on the wall) and it's yours for free! (I need to move inventory!) 
>>> 
>>> Thanks. 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson 
>>> -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________
>>> 
>>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky at gmail.com
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bspidell at comcast.net
>> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky at gmail.com
> 
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From fishplate at gmail.com  Sat Feb  6 05:23:44 2021
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2021 07:23:44 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacement florescent bulbs F42T6
In-Reply-To: <OFB468CF2F.FF52C65B-ON85258673.0046FBB5-85258673.0047D9DD@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OFB468CF2F.FF52C65B-ON85258673.0046FBB5-85258673.0047D9DD@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CPCe_xBdo1e7vpm5tyNxz6Dx_mm8PbzxgPieOfyAmtW_A@mail.gmail.com>

Is it possible to remove the tube and use the power cord to supply a
converter/transformer to give 12V?  Then you could get a strip of
stick-on LEDs and attach them where the tube used to be.  Power them
with the 12V supply, and Bob's yer uncle.  You can use some powerful
LEDs with the old fixture as a heat sink.

On Fri, Feb 5, 2021 at 11:15 PM <eric at megageek.com> wrote:
>
> Ok, this is a literal 'shop talk' problem, as this bulb is in a showcase in my shop (antique and collectables shop)  8>)  I hope there are no problems posting it here.  But I know there is better knowledge here than me.
>
> So, this showcase has a florescent light bulb F42T6.  (42" and T6 diameter.)  Which is a weird size length and very narrow, so I can't get a bigger diameter bulb.
>
> Now, this bulb seems to only be available by price gougers, (Chosen Supply has them for a mere $2,443.92.)
>
> Since this is in a active store and I can't easily remove the display case to modify it to fit something else, is there any other alternative for me?
>
> What I was thinking is they may be a LED replacement bulb that will fit or something?  Anyone know of such a replacement?  Or a quick and easy drop in replacement mount?
>
> Also, I may be closing the store in the next 6 months, so I don't want to dump tons of cash into this.
>
> BTW, if any of you are in NJ and check it out and see something you like in there, call me (number is on the wall) and it's yours for free! (I need to move inventory!)
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate at gmail.com
>

From fishplate at gmail.com  Sat Feb  6 05:26:40 2021
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2021 07:26:40 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacement florescent bulbs F42T6
In-Reply-To: <OFB468CF2F.FF52C65B-ON85258673.0046FBB5-85258673.0047D9DD@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OFB468CF2F.FF52C65B-ON85258673.0046FBB5-85258673.0047D9DD@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CMV8CXeMMiN7N-4EphArhdTPPrGdzZ2E8cXnUyKXMZqsA@mail.gmail.com>

Another  thought -- is the T6 because of the fixture's tombstones, or
a physical limitation?  Could you change to T8 tombstones (and
ballast, it the current ballast won't work)?

On Fri, Feb 5, 2021 at 11:15 PM <eric at megageek.com> wrote:
>
> Ok, this is a literal 'shop talk' problem, as this bulb is in a showcase in my shop (antique and collectables shop)  8>)  I hope there are no problems posting it here.  But I know there is better knowledge here than me.
>
> So, this showcase has a florescent light bulb F42T6.  (42" and T6 diameter.)  Which is a weird size length and very narrow, so I can't get a bigger diameter bulb.
>
> Now, this bulb seems to only be available by price gougers, (Chosen Supply has them for a mere $2,443.92.)
>
> Since this is in a active store and I can't easily remove the display case to modify it to fit something else, is there any other alternative for me?
>
> What I was thinking is they may be a LED replacement bulb that will fit or something?  Anyone know of such a replacement?  Or a quick and easy drop in replacement mount?
>
> Also, I may be closing the store in the next 6 months, so I don't want to dump tons of cash into this.
>
> BTW, if any of you are in NJ and check it out and see something you like in there, call me (number is on the wall) and it's yours for free! (I need to move inventory!)
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate at gmail.com
>

From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com  Sat Feb  6 05:38:38 2021
From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott Hall)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2021 06:38:38 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacement florescent bulbs F42T6
In-Reply-To: <DEEEB07D-A576-4949-8CCF-34EC4627DAD6@gmail.com>
References: <cf5dba44-6971-ff43-1edc-55834703ec2b@comcast.net>
 <DEEEB07D-A576-4949-8CCF-34EC4627DAD6@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAK73_u7JPMgNZP+z4RO21PE5_w5vdnnZfCBT2_eUMQmqY=4fnQ@mail.gmail.com>

Wait a minute--where'd you get those bulbs?

I was literally about to send an email to the list about the failing
fixtures in my garage. New tubes didn't fix the problem, I was about to
replace the whole fixture.

Scott

On Sat, Feb 6, 2021, 6:20 AM Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky at gmail.com> wrote:

> I bought LED tubes from Lowe?s to replace a couple of 4? fluorescent
> lights in an old fixture in my cottage. I was skeptical and assumed I?d be
> taking them back and buying a new LED fixture but I put them in and they
> worked great. These even had a switch on the end to choose the color
> temperature.
>
> No idea if that means Eric will have the same experience with these.
>
> -Paul
>
> On Feb 6, 2021, at 1:57 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> ? re: "They say this is a direct replacement"
>
> *Probably* not. NOTE: "Ballast Required!"  I re-wired some old-school
> fluorescent fixtures for LED 'tubes,' and had to replace the old ballasts
> (purchased from Lowe's @ about $20ea). I hate ballasts, I hope the solid
> state ones last longer than the analog. Sometimes, it's cheaper to buy a
> whole new fixture, with ballast, than buy a ballast and install it (if you
> count your time as a cost).
>
> TL;DR: I don't think analog ballasts work with LEDs, but I've not tried it.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 2/5/2021 8:28 PM, Paul Parkanzky wrote:
>
> They say this is a direct replacement:
>
> NYLL - (Pack of 2) Single Pin FA8 Base 42 Inch Plug & Play LED Tube - T6
> LED Directly Relamp 25W 42" Fluorescent Bulb F42T6 (Without Rewiring or
> Modification) - Ballast Required! (Daylight (5000K))
> https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B088FSTPX4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_J3J63CZD7TMEYDHGW8E8?psc=1
>
> $60 plus shipping a pair isn?t exactly cheap, but it feels cheap compared
> to $2400+...
>
> -Paul
>
> On Feb 5, 2021, at 11:15 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote:
>
> ?Ok, this is a literal 'shop talk' problem, as this bulb is in a showcase
> in my shop (antique and collectables shop)  8>)  I hope there are no
> problems posting it here.  But I know there is better knowledge here than
> me.
>
> So, this showcase has a florescent light bulb F42T6.  (42" and T6
> diameter.)  Which is a weird size length and very narrow, so I can't get a
> bigger diameter bulb.
>
> Now, this bulb seems to only be available by price gougers, (Chosen Supply
> has them for a mere $2,443.92.)
>
> Since this is in a active store and I can't easily remove the display case
> to modify it to fit something else, is there any other alternative for me?
>
> What I was thinking is they may be a LED replacement bulb that will fit or
> something?  Anyone know of such a replacement?  Or a quick and easy drop in
> replacement mount?
>
> Also, I may be closing the store in the next 6 months, so I don't want to
> dump tons of cash into this.
>
> BTW, if any of you are in NJ and check it out and see something you like
> in there, call me (number is on the wall) and it's yours for free! (I need
> to move inventory!)
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bspidell at comcast.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/scott.hall.personal at gmail.com
>
>
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From parkanzky at gmail.com  Sat Feb  6 07:29:22 2021
From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2021 09:29:22 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacement florescent bulbs F42T6
In-Reply-To: <CAK73_u7JPMgNZP+z4RO21PE5_w5vdnnZfCBT2_eUMQmqY=4fnQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <cf5dba44-6971-ff43-1edc-55834703ec2b@comcast.net>
 <DEEEB07D-A576-4949-8CCF-34EC4627DAD6@gmail.com>
 <CAK73_u7JPMgNZP+z4RO21PE5_w5vdnnZfCBT2_eUMQmqY=4fnQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAOErii=uKqXzQF_CUeo87ax+CR+4cJXDgPaTD16aBg6pJ2RZbA@mail.gmail.com>

I've long since tossed the receipt and burned the box but I'm pretty sure
these are them:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Color-Correct-Technology-32-Watt-EQ-48-in-Daylight-Linear-LED-Tube-Light-Bulb-2-Pack/5000197453

The laundry/utility room in my cottage has a 4' fluorescent fixture and
when I bought the place that light really struggled to come on (I'd have to
toggle the switch five or six times to get it to work). I was at Lowe's
with a buddy who was helping me with little projects around the place and I
had a new fixture on my shopping list. I was looking at a bunch and didn't
really like what they had. I told him I'd just buy something from Amazon
when he pointed these out and I decided to give them a shot. I honestly
thought I'd have to return them but it really was as easy as putting them
in and they worked.

I have a bunch of 4' fluorescent fixtures in my barn. I  bought a bunch of
4' LED fixtures and I was in the process of swapping them out but now I'm
definitely getting these bulbs where there are still existing fixtures. I
feel stupid for all the fixtures I've thrown out over the past few years!

-Paul

On Sat, Feb 6, 2021 at 7:38 AM Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Wait a minute--where'd you get those bulbs?
>
> I was literally about to send an email to the list about the failing
> fixtures in my garage. New tubes didn't fix the problem, I was about to
> replace the whole fixture.
>
> Scott
>
> On Sat, Feb 6, 2021, 6:20 AM Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I bought LED tubes from Lowe?s to replace a couple of 4? fluorescent
>> lights in an old fixture in my cottage. I was skeptical and assumed I?d be
>> taking them back and buying a new LED fixture but I put them in and they
>> worked great. These even had a switch on the end to choose the color
>> temperature.
>>
>> No idea if that means Eric will have the same experience with these.
>>
>> -Paul
>>
>> On Feb 6, 2021, at 1:57 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>> ? re: "They say this is a direct replacement"
>>
>> *Probably* not. NOTE: "Ballast Required!"  I re-wired some old-school
>> fluorescent fixtures for LED 'tubes,' and had to replace the old ballasts
>> (purchased from Lowe's @ about $20ea). I hate ballasts, I hope the solid
>> state ones last longer than the analog. Sometimes, it's cheaper to buy a
>> whole new fixture, with ballast, than buy a ballast and install it (if you
>> count your time as a cost).
>>
>> TL;DR: I don't think analog ballasts work with LEDs, but I've not tried
>> it.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>> On 2/5/2021 8:28 PM, Paul Parkanzky wrote:
>>
>> They say this is a direct replacement:
>>
>> NYLL - (Pack of 2) Single Pin FA8 Base 42 Inch Plug & Play LED Tube - T6
>> LED Directly Relamp 25W 42" Fluorescent Bulb F42T6 (Without Rewiring or
>> Modification) - Ballast Required! (Daylight (5000K))
>> https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B088FSTPX4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_J3J63CZD7TMEYDHGW8E8?psc=1
>>
>> $60 plus shipping a pair isn?t exactly cheap, but it feels cheap compared
>> to $2400+...
>>
>> -Paul
>>
>> On Feb 5, 2021, at 11:15 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote:
>>
>> ?Ok, this is a literal 'shop talk' problem, as this bulb is in a
>> showcase in my shop (antique and collectables shop)  8>)  I hope there are
>> no problems posting it here.  But I know there is better knowledge here
>> than me.
>>
>> So, this showcase has a florescent light bulb F42T6.  (42" and T6
>> diameter.)  Which is a weird size length and very narrow, so I can't get a
>> bigger diameter bulb.
>>
>> Now, this bulb seems to only be available by price gougers, (Chosen
>> Supply has them for a mere $2,443.92.)
>>
>> Since this is in a active store and I can't easily remove the display
>> case to modify it to fit something else, is there any other alternative for
>> me?
>>
>> What I was thinking is they may be a LED replacement bulb that will fit
>> or something?  Anyone know of such a replacement?  Or a quick and easy drop
>> in replacement mount?
>>
>> Also, I may be closing the store in the next 6 months, so I don't want to
>> dump tons of cash into this.
>>
>> BTW, if any of you are in NJ and check it out and see something you like
>> in there, call me (number is on the wall) and it's yours for free! (I need
>> to move inventory!)
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>>
>> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
>> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
>> Waldo Emerson
>> -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky at gmail.com
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bspidell at comcast.net
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/scott.hall.personal at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From patintexas at icloud.com  Sat Feb  6 07:49:14 2021
From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2021 08:49:14 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacement florescent bulbs F42T6
In-Reply-To: <CAOErii=uKqXzQF_CUeo87ax+CR+4cJXDgPaTD16aBg6pJ2RZbA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOErii=uKqXzQF_CUeo87ax+CR+4cJXDgPaTD16aBg6pJ2RZbA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <B84C34CA-4231-419F-805B-4CDED8FC663D@icloud.com>

Paul, FYI, the problem with fluorescents not lighting in first try isn?t always a defective lamp or ballast. Sometimes the fixture isn?t grounded, which can cause that problem. 


Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne 
We support Habitat for Humanity


On Feb 6, 2021, at 8:44 AM, Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky at gmail.com> wrote:

?
I've long since tossed the receipt and burned the box but I'm pretty sure these are them:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Color-Correct-Technology-32-Watt-EQ-48-in-Daylight-Linear-LED-Tube-Light-Bulb-2-Pack/5000197453

The laundry/utility room in my cottage has a 4' fluorescent fixture and when I bought the place that light really struggled to come on (I'd have to toggle the switch five or six times to get it to work). I was at Lowe's with a buddy who was helping me with little projects around the place and I had a new fixture on my shopping list. I was looking at a bunch and didn't really like what they had. I told him I'd just buy something from Amazon when he pointed these out and I decided to give them a shot. I honestly thought I'd have to return them but it really was as easy as putting them in and they worked.

I have a bunch of 4' fluorescent fixtures in my barn. I  bought a bunch of 4' LED fixtures and I was in the process of swapping them out but now I'm definitely getting these bulbs where there are still existing fixtures. I feel stupid for all the fixtures I've thrown out over the past few years!

-Paul

On Sat, Feb 6, 2021 at 7:38 AM Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal at gmail.com> wrote:
> Wait a minute--where'd you get those bulbs?
> 
> I was literally about to send an email to the list about the failing fixtures in my garage. New tubes didn't fix the problem, I was about to replace the whole fixture.  
> 
> Scott
> 
> On Sat, Feb 6, 2021, 6:20 AM Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky at gmail.com> wrote:
>> I bought LED tubes from Lowe?s to replace a couple of 4? fluorescent lights in an old fixture in my cottage. I was skeptical and assumed I?d be taking them back and buying a new LED fixture but I put them in and they worked great. These even had a switch on the end to choose the color temperature.
>> 
>> No idea if that means Eric will have the same experience with these.
>> 
>> -Paul
>> 
>>> On Feb 6, 2021, at 1:57 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>>> 
>>> ? re: "They say this is a direct replacement"
>>> 
>>> Probably not. NOTE: "Ballast Required!"  I re-wired some old-school fluorescent fixtures for LED 'tubes,' and had to replace the old ballasts (purchased from Lowe's @ about $20ea). I hate ballasts, I hope the solid state ones last longer than the analog. Sometimes, it's cheaper to buy a whole new fixture, with ballast, than buy a ballast and install it (if you count your time as a cost).
>>> 
>>> TL;DR: I don't think analog ballasts work with LEDs, but I've not tried it.
>>> 
>>> Bob
>>>  
>>> 
>>> On 2/5/2021 8:28 PM, Paul Parkanzky wrote:
>>>> They say this is a direct replacement:
>>>> 
>>>> NYLL - (Pack of 2) Single Pin FA8 Base 42 Inch Plug & Play LED Tube - T6 LED Directly Relamp 25W 42" Fluorescent Bulb F42T6 (Without Rewiring or Modification) - Ballast Required! (Daylight (5000K)) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B088FSTPX4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_J3J63CZD7TMEYDHGW8E8?psc=1
>>>> 
>>>> $60 plus shipping a pair isn?t exactly cheap, but it feels cheap compared to $2400+...
>>>> 
>>>> -Paul
>>>> 
>>>>> On Feb 5, 2021, at 11:15 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> ?Ok, this is a literal 'shop talk' problem, as this bulb is in a showcase in my shop (antique and collectables shop)  8>)  I hope there are no problems posting it here.  But I know there is better knowledge here than me. 
>>>>> 
>>>>> So, this showcase has a florescent light bulb F42T6.  (42" and T6 diameter.)  Which is a weird size length and very narrow, so I can't get a bigger diameter bulb.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Now, this bulb seems to only be available by price gougers, (Chosen Supply has them for a mere $2,443.92.)   
>>>>> 
>>>>> Since this is in a active store and I can't easily remove the display case to modify it to fit something else, is there any other alternative for me? 
>>>>> 
>>>>> What I was thinking is they may be a LED replacement bulb that will fit or something?  Anyone know of such a replacement?  Or a quick and easy drop in replacement mount? 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Also, I may be closing the store in the next 6 months, so I don't want to dump tons of cash into this. 
>>>>> 
>>>>> BTW, if any of you are in NJ and check it out and see something you like in there, call me (number is on the wall) and it's yours for free! (I need to move inventory!) 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Thanks. 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson 
>>>>> -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________
>>>>> 
>>>>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>>> 
>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky at gmail.com
>>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> 
>>>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>> 
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bspidell at comcast.net
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> 
>>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky at gmail.com
>>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/scott.hall.personal at gmail.com
>> 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

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From patintexas at icloud.com  Sat Feb  6 08:02:22 2021
From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2021 09:02:22 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacement florescent bulbs F42T6
In-Reply-To: <CAOErii=uKqXzQF_CUeo87ax+CR+4cJXDgPaTD16aBg6pJ2RZbA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOErii=uKqXzQF_CUeo87ax+CR+4cJXDgPaTD16aBg6pJ2RZbA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AF6C458A-0C4B-4608-B515-528F31C943F0@icloud.com>

This is a bit of a deviation from the OP, but related. 

When rebuilding my shop after a fire I moved from four-lamp fluorescent fixtures to LED units. I found Primelights.com that sold three-lamp LED, 48? fixtures that put out more light than the old fixtures. And they were cheap! $79 each, $75 for 10 or more. (The Bolt). These are basic lights but they have enclosed fixtures too. The fixtures are cheap but went up fine & I haven?t had any problems with them.  Even though they are about 50 miles from me, they shipped to me cheaply. Highly recommended. 

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne 
We support Habitat for Humanity


On Feb 6, 2021, at 8:44 AM, Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky at gmail.com> wrote:

?
I've long since tossed the receipt and burned the box but I'm pretty sure these are them:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Color-Correct-Technology-32-Watt-EQ-48-in-Daylight-Linear-LED-Tube-Light-Bulb-2-Pack/5000197453

The laundry/utility room in my cottage has a 4' fluorescent fixture and when I bought the place that light really struggled to come on (I'd have to toggle the switch five or six times to get it to work). I was at Lowe's with a buddy who was helping me with little projects around the place and I had a new fixture on my shopping list. I was looking at a bunch and didn't really like what they had. I told him I'd just buy something from Amazon when he pointed these out and I decided to give them a shot. I honestly thought I'd have to return them but it really was as easy as putting them in and they worked.

I have a bunch of 4' fluorescent fixtures in my barn. I  bought a bunch of 4' LED fixtures and I was in the process of swapping them out but now I'm definitely getting these bulbs where there are still existing fixtures. I feel stupid for all the fixtures I've thrown out over the past few years!

-Paul

On Sat, Feb 6, 2021 at 7:38 AM Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal at gmail.com> wrote:
> Wait a minute--where'd you get those bulbs?
> 
> I was literally about to send an email to the list about the failing fixtures in my garage. New tubes didn't fix the problem, I was about to replace the whole fixture.  
> 
> Scott
> 
> On Sat, Feb 6, 2021, 6:20 AM Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky at gmail.com> wrote:
>> I bought LED tubes from Lowe?s to replace a couple of 4? fluorescent lights in an old fixture in my cottage. I was skeptical and assumed I?d be taking them back and buying a new LED fixture but I put them in and they worked great. These even had a switch on the end to choose the color temperature.
>> 
>> No idea if that means Eric will have the same experience with these.
>> 
>> -Paul
>> 
>>> On Feb 6, 2021, at 1:57 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>>> 
>>> ? re: "They say this is a direct replacement"
>>> 
>>> Probably not. NOTE: "Ballast Required!"  I re-wired some old-school fluorescent fixtures for LED 'tubes,' and had to replace the old ballasts (purchased from Lowe's @ about $20ea). I hate ballasts, I hope the solid state ones last longer than the analog. Sometimes, it's cheaper to buy a whole new fixture, with ballast, than buy a ballast and install it (if you count your time as a cost).
>>> 
>>> TL;DR: I don't think analog ballasts work with LEDs, but I've not tried it.
>>> 
>>> Bob
>>>  
>>> 
>>> On 2/5/2021 8:28 PM, Paul Parkanzky wrote:
>>>> They say this is a direct replacement:
>>>> 
>>>> NYLL - (Pack of 2) Single Pin FA8 Base 42 Inch Plug & Play LED Tube - T6 LED Directly Relamp 25W 42" Fluorescent Bulb F42T6 (Without Rewiring or Modification) - Ballast Required! (Daylight (5000K)) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B088FSTPX4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_J3J63CZD7TMEYDHGW8E8?psc=1
>>>> 
>>>> $60 plus shipping a pair isn?t exactly cheap, but it feels cheap compared to $2400+...
>>>> 
>>>> -Paul
>>>> 
>>>>> On Feb 5, 2021, at 11:15 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> ?Ok, this is a literal 'shop talk' problem, as this bulb is in a showcase in my shop (antique and collectables shop)  8>)  I hope there are no problems posting it here.  But I know there is better knowledge here than me. 
>>>>> 
>>>>> So, this showcase has a florescent light bulb F42T6.  (42" and T6 diameter.)  Which is a weird size length and very narrow, so I can't get a bigger diameter bulb.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Now, this bulb seems to only be available by price gougers, (Chosen Supply has them for a mere $2,443.92.)   
>>>>> 
>>>>> Since this is in a active store and I can't easily remove the display case to modify it to fit something else, is there any other alternative for me? 
>>>>> 
>>>>> What I was thinking is they may be a LED replacement bulb that will fit or something?  Anyone know of such a replacement?  Or a quick and easy drop in replacement mount? 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Also, I may be closing the store in the next 6 months, so I don't want to dump tons of cash into this. 
>>>>> 
>>>>> BTW, if any of you are in NJ and check it out and see something you like in there, call me (number is on the wall) and it's yours for free! (I need to move inventory!) 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Thanks. 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson 
>>>>> -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________
>>>>> 
>>>>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>>> 
>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky at gmail.com
>>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> 
>>>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>> 
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bspidell at comcast.net
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> 
>>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky at gmail.com
>>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/scott.hall.personal at gmail.com
>> 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

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From mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org  Sat Feb  6 08:33:32 2021
From: mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org (Jimmie Mayfield)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2021 10:33:32 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacement florescent bulbs F42T6
In-Reply-To: <OFB468CF2F.FF52C65B-ON85258673.0046FBB5-85258673.0047D9DD@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OFB468CF2F.FF52C65B-ON85258673.0046FBB5-85258673.0047D9DD@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <32074ed5-e5dd-b97f-27dd-4b174778ee76@sackheads.org>

How about removing the fluorescent bulb and using some adhesive-backed 
LED strips in its place?? You can buy these guys as short (~2 ft) rigid 
strips or you can buy them on a roll (usually 3 meters/roll) that can be 
trimmed to size. They come in various color temperatures which might be 
important since this is a retail display case and there are even RGB 
varieties in case you really want to tweak the color to something other 
than plain white.? Since they're adhesive-backed, you just stick them 
where you want them, connect the DC power connector and you're in business.

J



From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Feb  6 08:51:53 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2021 07:51:53 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacement florescent bulbs F42T6
In-Reply-To: <OF45E427A8.4686B481-ON85258674.0040ED56-85258674.0041A174@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OFB468CF2F.FF52C65B-ON85258673.0046FBB5-85258673.0047D9DD@mail.megageek.com>
 <7f738e2f-870e-0871-9451-784a1b0d3dd9@comcast.net>
 <OF45E427A8.4686B481-ON85258674.0040ED56-85258674.0041A174@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <6dc9ab96-45ff-3cf5-71ab-7afda2681d98@comcast.net>

I didn't see the 'minimum' at first, but then saw it and 'only 7 
remaining' and I thought: "Well, maybe they want to clear their shelves 
and sell the 7."

I found this on (guess where):

https://www.amazon.com/NYLL-Directly-Fluorescent-Rewiring-Modification/dp/B082BG8SXP/ref=pd_lpo_60_t_0/147-5194505-6928347?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B082BG8SXP&pd_rd_r=99eeff4d-9d16-4ffb-8e88-d443aca75245&pd_rd_w=9HnPR&pd_rd_wg=ndybO&pf_rd_p=16b28406-aa34-451d-8a2e-b3930ada000c&pf_rd_r=3YRVBS6ETR08SXW6VRN5&psc=1&refRID=3YRVBS6ETR08SXW6VRN5

I'm still confused on 'ballast required.' Anyone know for sure if LEDs 
take a special ballast?


On 2/6/2021 3:56 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote:
> Bob comes in with...
>
> >$2.67 work for you?
> _>__https://www.grainger.com/product/GE-LIGHTING-Fluorescent-Linear-Lamp-3V633_ 
> <https://www.grainger.com/product/GE-LIGHTING-Fluorescent-Linear-Lamp-3V633>
> >They'll probably charge $1,000 shipping ;)
>
> WOW, this would be perfect, but I have to buy 24! ?UGGH. ?(I didn't 
> even look at the shipping yet.)
>
> I tried to buy the 24. ?I figured I'd ?use one and sell the rest for 
> $100 a piece, I'd still be the cheapest price on amazon! ?8>) 
> ?(actually, I was going to sell them for about $20 or so a piece)
> But Granger is 'out of stock!'
>
> Why do companies list items they can't sell?
>
> Thanks for finding that Bob however!
>
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a 
> rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your 
> territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt?

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From parkanzky at gmail.com  Sat Feb  6 08:56:55 2021
From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2021 10:56:55 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacement florescent bulbs F42T6
In-Reply-To: <B84C34CA-4231-419F-805B-4CDED8FC663D@icloud.com>
References: <CAOErii=uKqXzQF_CUeo87ax+CR+4cJXDgPaTD16aBg6pJ2RZbA@mail.gmail.com>
 <B84C34CA-4231-419F-805B-4CDED8FC663D@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <CAOEriikP846oquU=hhvfkZcKpqsLQa34othK08PZ8J0+P1CPNg@mail.gmail.com>

I know, but I always change all the lights in my properties to LEDs. So it
was coming down one way or another.

-Paul

On Sat, Feb 6, 2021 at 9:49 AM Pat Horne <patintexas at icloud.com> wrote:

> Paul, FYI, the problem with fluorescents not lighting in first try isn?t
> always a defective lamp or ballast. Sometimes the fixture isn?t grounded,
> which can cause that problem.
>
>
> Peace,
> Pat
>
> Pat Horne
> We support Habitat for Humanity
>
>
> On Feb 6, 2021, at 8:44 AM, Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?
> I've long since tossed the receipt and burned the box but I'm pretty sure
> these are them:
>
>
> https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Color-Correct-Technology-32-Watt-EQ-48-in-Daylight-Linear-LED-Tube-Light-Bulb-2-Pack/5000197453
>
> The laundry/utility room in my cottage has a 4' fluorescent fixture and
> when I bought the place that light really struggled to come on (I'd have to
> toggle the switch five or six times to get it to work). I was at Lowe's
> with a buddy who was helping me with little projects around the place and I
> had a new fixture on my shopping list. I was looking at a bunch and didn't
> really like what they had. I told him I'd just buy something from Amazon
> when he pointed these out and I decided to give them a shot. I honestly
> thought I'd have to return them but it really was as easy as putting them
> in and they worked.
>
> I have a bunch of 4' fluorescent fixtures in my barn. I  bought a bunch of
> 4' LED fixtures and I was in the process of swapping them out but now I'm
> definitely getting these bulbs where there are still existing fixtures. I
> feel stupid for all the fixtures I've thrown out over the past few years!
>
> -Paul
>
> On Sat, Feb 6, 2021 at 7:38 AM Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Wait a minute--where'd you get those bulbs?
>>
>> I was literally about to send an email to the list about the failing
>> fixtures in my garage. New tubes didn't fix the problem, I was about to
>> replace the whole fixture.
>>
>> Scott
>>
>> On Sat, Feb 6, 2021, 6:20 AM Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I bought LED tubes from Lowe?s to replace a couple of 4? fluorescent
>>> lights in an old fixture in my cottage. I was skeptical and assumed I?d be
>>> taking them back and buying a new LED fixture but I put them in and they
>>> worked great. These even had a switch on the end to choose the color
>>> temperature.
>>>
>>> No idea if that means Eric will have the same experience with these.
>>>
>>> -Paul
>>>
>>> On Feb 6, 2021, at 1:57 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> ? re: "They say this is a direct replacement"
>>>
>>> *Probably* not. NOTE: "Ballast Required!"  I re-wired some old-school
>>> fluorescent fixtures for LED 'tubes,' and had to replace the old ballasts
>>> (purchased from Lowe's @ about $20ea). I hate ballasts, I hope the solid
>>> state ones last longer than the analog. Sometimes, it's cheaper to buy a
>>> whole new fixture, with ballast, than buy a ballast and install it (if you
>>> count your time as a cost).
>>>
>>> TL;DR: I don't think analog ballasts work with LEDs, but I've not tried
>>> it.
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>>
>>> On 2/5/2021 8:28 PM, Paul Parkanzky wrote:
>>>
>>> They say this is a direct replacement:
>>>
>>> NYLL - (Pack of 2) Single Pin FA8 Base 42 Inch Plug & Play LED Tube - T6
>>> LED Directly Relamp 25W 42" Fluorescent Bulb F42T6 (Without Rewiring or
>>> Modification) - Ballast Required! (Daylight (5000K))
>>> https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B088FSTPX4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_J3J63CZD7TMEYDHGW8E8?psc=1
>>>
>>> $60 plus shipping a pair isn?t exactly cheap, but it feels cheap
>>> compared to $2400+...
>>>
>>> -Paul
>>>
>>> On Feb 5, 2021, at 11:15 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote:
>>>
>>> ?Ok, this is a literal 'shop talk' problem, as this bulb is in a
>>> showcase in my shop (antique and collectables shop)  8>)  I hope there are
>>> no problems posting it here.  But I know there is better knowledge here
>>> than me.
>>>
>>> So, this showcase has a florescent light bulb F42T6.  (42" and T6
>>> diameter.)  Which is a weird size length and very narrow, so I can't get a
>>> bigger diameter bulb.
>>>
>>> Now, this bulb seems to only be available by price gougers, (Chosen
>>> Supply has them for a mere $2,443.92.)
>>>
>>> Since this is in a active store and I can't easily remove the display
>>> case to modify it to fit something else, is there any other alternative for
>>> me?
>>>
>>> What I was thinking is they may be a LED replacement bulb that will fit
>>> or something?  Anyone know of such a replacement?  Or a quick and easy drop
>>> in replacement mount?
>>>
>>> Also, I may be closing the store in the next 6 months, so I don't want
>>> to dump tons of cash into this.
>>>
>>> BTW, if any of you are in NJ and check it out and see something you like
>>> in there, call me (number is on the wall) and it's yours for free! (I need
>>> to move inventory!)
>>>
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>>
>>> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a
>>> rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory."
>>> Ralph Waldo Emerson
>>> -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________
>>>
>>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky at gmail.com
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bspidell at comcast.net
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky at gmail.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/scott.hall.personal at gmail.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
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From patintexas at icloud.com  Sat Feb  6 10:08:40 2021
From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2021 11:08:40 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacement florescent bulbs F42T6
In-Reply-To: <6dc9ab96-45ff-3cf5-71ab-7afda2681d98@comcast.net>
References: <6dc9ab96-45ff-3cf5-71ab-7afda2681d98@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <6DF6799D-1C1F-405B-9171-26EDE2411124@icloud.com>

Bob, it?s not that LEDs need a special ballast, they usually don?t need any ballast, but that some of them will work with a fluorescent ballast & some not. The ones I use take 120-270v directly to the lamp. 

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne 
We support Habitat for Humanity


On Feb 6, 2021, at 10:13 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

? I didn't see the 'minimum' at first, but then saw it and 'only 7 remaining' and I thought: "Well, maybe they want to clear their shelves and sell the 7."

I found this on (guess where):

https://www.amazon.com/NYLL-Directly-Fluorescent-Rewiring-Modification/dp/B082BG8SXP/ref=pd_lpo_60_t_0/147-5194505-6928347?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B082BG8SXP&pd_rd_r=99eeff4d-9d16-4ffb-8e88-d443aca75245&pd_rd_w=9HnPR&pd_rd_wg=ndybO&pf_rd_p=16b28406-aa34-451d-8a2e-b3930ada000c&pf_rd_r=3YRVBS6ETR08SXW6VRN5&psc=1&refRID=3YRVBS6ETR08SXW6VRN5

I'm still confused on 'ballast required.' Anyone know for sure if LEDs take a special ballast?


On 2/6/2021 3:56 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote:
> Bob comes in with... 
> 
> >$2.67 work for you? 
> >https://www.grainger.com/product/GE-LIGHTING-Fluorescent-Linear-Lamp-3V633
> >They'll probably charge $1,000 shipping ;) 
> 
> WOW, this would be perfect, but I have to buy 24!  UGGH.  (I didn't even look at the shipping yet.) 
> 
> I tried to buy the 24.  I figured I'd  use one and sell the rest for $100 a piece, I'd still be the cheapest price on amazon!  8>)  (actually, I was going to sell them for about $20 or so a piece) 
> But Granger is 'out of stock!' 
> 
> Why do companies list items they can't sell? 
> 
> Thanks for finding that Bob however! 
> 
> 
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson 
> -Who is John Galt? 

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Feb  6 11:16:14 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2021 10:16:14 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacement florescent bulbs F42T6
In-Reply-To: <6DF6799D-1C1F-405B-9171-26EDE2411124@icloud.com>
References: <6dc9ab96-45ff-3cf5-71ab-7afda2681d98@comcast.net>
 <6DF6799D-1C1F-405B-9171-26EDE2411124@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <6d25c65f-fa24-7f9c-8a9c-f92d6dfb82d6@comcast.net>

Makes sense. It's been a couple years, and my memory's fuzzy, but now I 
remember I had a couple bad ballasts and, since I had to replace them I 
got LED-compatible ones and installed LED tubes (T12 IIRC).

LEDs must need /something/, at least according to the ones I'm 
familiar--they're used in rectifiers--need DC current (probable at 5 or 
12V).


On 2/6/2021 9:08 AM, Pat Horne wrote:
> Bob, it?s not that LEDs need a special ballast, they usually don?t 
> need any ballast, but that some of them will work with a fluorescent 
> ballast & some not. The ones I use take 120-270v directly to the lamp.
>
> Peace,
> Pat
>
> Pat Horne
> We support Habitat for Humanity
>
>

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From patintexas at icloud.com  Sat Feb  6 11:21:10 2021
From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2021 12:21:10 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacement florescent bulbs F42T6
In-Reply-To: <6d25c65f-fa24-7f9c-8a9c-f92d6dfb82d6@comcast.net>
References: <6d25c65f-fa24-7f9c-8a9c-f92d6dfb82d6@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <400F05C4-9CFF-4489-9737-655719A49C34@icloud.com>

It?s built in. There is a circuit on the end. 
Take a look @ this information 

https://www.primelights.com/collections/bulbs/products/t8-led-bulb-22-watt-clear-case-of-30-plt84dw-22wcl
And

https://www.primelights.com/collections/bulbs/products/4-t8-led-bulb-18w-no-ballast-bypass-50-000-hours-pl-t8led18-dr

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne 
We support Habitat for Humanity


On Feb 6, 2021, at 12:16 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

? Makes sense. It's been a couple years, and my memory's fuzzy, but now I remember I had a couple bad ballasts and, since I had to replace them I got LED-compatible ones and installed LED tubes (T12 IIRC).

LEDs must need something, at least according to the ones I'm familiar--they're used in rectifiers--need DC current (probable at 5 or 12V).


On 2/6/2021 9:08 AM, Pat Horne wrote:
> Bob, it?s not that LEDs need a special ballast, they usually don?t need any ballast, but that some of them will work with a fluorescent ballast & some not. The ones I use take 120-270v directly to the lamp. 
> 
> Peace,
> Pat
> 
> Pat Horne 
> We support Habitat for Humanity
> 
> 

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From rrochlin at comcast.net  Sat Feb  6 12:34:17 2021
From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Rochlin Robert)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2021 14:34:17 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacement florescent bulbs F42T6
In-Reply-To: <6d25c65f-fa24-7f9c-8a9c-f92d6dfb82d6@comcast.net>
References: <6dc9ab96-45ff-3cf5-71ab-7afda2681d98@comcast.net>
 <6DF6799D-1C1F-405B-9171-26EDE2411124@icloud.com>
 <6d25c65f-fa24-7f9c-8a9c-f92d6dfb82d6@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <3DAFE0D1-5409-4DAE-9FB5-C1F4C2FB93B4@comcast.net>

	I don?t know if this heresy, but I?ve been replacing my florescent units with HF 5000 luman LEDs as they go bad.  The single tube, $19.95 (on sale), are amazingly bright, nice color temperature and relatively well built. I?ve found that a single HF unit will replace a 2 bulb florescent unit, and HF sells a two tube unit for a few dollars more.
	Best,
	Bob

> On Feb 6, 2021, at 1:16 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> Makes sense. It's been a couple years, and my memory's fuzzy, but now I remember I had a couple bad ballasts and, since I had to replace them I got LED-compatible ones and installed LED tubes (T12 IIRC).
> 
> LEDs must need something, at least according to the ones I'm familiar--they're used in rectifiers--need DC current (probable at 5 or 12V).
> 
> 
> On 2/6/2021 9:08 AM, Pat Horne wrote:
>> Bob, it?s not that LEDs need a special ballast, they usually don?t need any ballast, but that some of them will work with a fluorescent ballast & some not. The ones I use take 120-270v directly to the lamp. 
>> 
>> Peace,
>> Pat
>> 
>> Pat Horne 
>> We support Habitat for Humanity
>> 
>> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rrochlin at comcast.net
> 

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From rrochlin at comcast.net  Sat Feb  6 15:11:46 2021
From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Rochlin Robert)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2021 17:11:46 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacement florescent bulbs F42T6
In-Reply-To: <CAK73_u4L5yD8nc-D0p81LYXfdgcQWwAr3-WdTiX2sm-GUpfy+Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <6dc9ab96-45ff-3cf5-71ab-7afda2681d98@comcast.net>
 <6DF6799D-1C1F-405B-9171-26EDE2411124@icloud.com>
 <6d25c65f-fa24-7f9c-8a9c-f92d6dfb82d6@comcast.net>
 <3DAFE0D1-5409-4DAE-9FB5-C1F4C2FB93B4@comcast.net>
 <CAK73_u4L5yD8nc-D0p81LYXfdgcQWwAr3-WdTiX2sm-GUpfy+Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2F759027-A077-4226-B565-D31AAFAF51E2@comcast.net>

	The whole fixture - should have been clearer...

> On Feb 6, 2021, at 3:05 PM, Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> The tubes, Bob, or the whole fixture?
> 
> On Sat, Feb 6, 2021, 2:00 PM Rochlin Robert <rrochlin at comcast.net <mailto:rrochlin at comcast.net>> wrote:
> 	I don?t know if this heresy, but I?ve been replacing my florescent units with HF 5000 luman LEDs as they go bad.  The single tube, $19.95 (on sale), are amazingly bright, nice color temperature and relatively well built. I?ve found that a single HF unit will replace a 2 bulb florescent unit, and HF sells a two tube unit for a few dollars more.
> 	Best,
> 	Bob
> 
>> On Feb 6, 2021, at 1:16 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>> 
>> Makes sense. It's been a couple years, and my memory's fuzzy, but now I remember I had a couple bad ballasts and, since I had to replace them I got LED-compatible ones and installed LED tubes (T12 IIRC).
>> 
>> LEDs must need something, at least according to the ones I'm familiar--they're used in rectifiers--need DC current (probable at 5 or 12V).
>> 
>> 
>> On 2/6/2021 9:08 AM, Pat Horne wrote:
>>> Bob, it?s not that LEDs need a special ballast, they usually don?t need any ballast, but that some of them will work with a fluorescent ballast & some not. The ones I use take 120-270v directly to the lamp. 
>>> 
>>> Peace,
>>> Pat
>>> 
>>> Pat Horne 
>>> We support Habitat for Humanity
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk <http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rrochlin at comcast.net <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rrochlin at comcast.net>
>> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk <http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/scott.hall.personal at gmail.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/scott.hall.personal at gmail.com>
> 

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From tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com  Sun Feb  7 18:33:36 2021
From: tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com (Tim .)
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2021 01:33:36 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] blast cabinet light upgrade/improvements badly needed
Message-ID: <DS7PR19MB46296CBB11F7FDD40C7FBC1EB48F9@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>

Hey all,

Sorry if this has been cussed and discussed but I need recommendations. I am ready to start doing the "small" but important improvements to my shop. This one is top of the list.

Whattayathink?
cheers
tim
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From patintexas at icloud.com  Sun Feb  7 18:38:51 2021
From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Sun, 7 Feb 2021 19:38:51 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] blast cabinet light upgrade/improvements badly
 needed
In-Reply-To: <DS7PR19MB46296CBB11F7FDD40C7FBC1EB48F9@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DS7PR19MB46296CBB11F7FDD40C7FBC1EB48F9@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CEDD9456-6195-4EA8-9A30-17BADC835B0E@icloud.com>

I used a double head, exterior LED flood light  that I just lay on the top window of my countertop blast cabinet. I like that I can move it around to get light where you like it. 

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne 
We support Habitat for Humanity


On Feb 7, 2021, at 7:35 PM, Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com> wrote:

?
Hey all, 

Sorry if this has been cussed and discussed but I need recommendations. I am ready to start doing the "small" but important improvements to my shop. This one is top of the list. 

Whattayathink?
cheers
tim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

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From tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com  Sun Feb  7 18:41:08 2021
From: tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com (Tim .)
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2021 01:41:08 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] blast cabinet light upgrade/improvements badly
 needed
In-Reply-To: <CEDD9456-6195-4EA8-9A30-17BADC835B0E@icloud.com>
References: <DS7PR19MB46296CBB11F7FDD40C7FBC1EB48F9@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>,
 <CEDD9456-6195-4EA8-9A30-17BADC835B0E@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <DS7PR19MB4629023FB41775478783AC2CB48F9@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>

i tried exterior....i am getting too much reflection.

________________________________
From: Pat Horne <patintexas at icloud.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 7, 2021 7:38 PM
To: Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>
Cc: Shop-talk at autox.team.net <Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] blast cabinet light upgrade/improvements badly needed

I used a double head, exterior LED flood light  that I just lay on the top window of my countertop blast cabinet. I like that I can move it around to get light where you like it.

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne
We support Habitat for Humanity


On Feb 7, 2021, at 7:35 PM, Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com> wrote:

?
Hey all,

Sorry if this has been cussed and discussed but I need recommendations. I am ready to start doing the "small" but important improvements to my shop. This one is top of the list.

Whattayathink?
cheers
tim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

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From patintexas at icloud.com  Sun Feb  7 18:56:56 2021
From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Sun, 7 Feb 2021 19:56:56 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] blast cabinet light upgrade/improvements badly
 needed
In-Reply-To: <DS7PR19MB4629023FB41775478783AC2CB48F9@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DS7PR19MB4629023FB41775478783AC2CB48F9@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <B1112787-447A-44A8-8DB1-CAB9CC484F79@icloud.com>

Reflection off the window? My light sits quite flat with no real reflection.  You might try adding a frame around the light to block the reflections. 

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne 
We support Habitat for Humanity


On Feb 7, 2021, at 7:53 PM, Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com> wrote:

?
i tried exterior....i am getting too much reflection.

From: Pat Horne <patintexas at icloud.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 7, 2021 7:38 PM
To: Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>
Cc: Shop-talk at autox.team.net <Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] blast cabinet light upgrade/improvements badly needed
 
I used a double head, exterior LED flood light  that I just lay on the top window of my countertop blast cabinet. I like that I can move it around to get light where you like it. 

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne 
We support Habitat for Humanity


On Feb 7, 2021, at 7:35 PM, Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com> wrote:

?
Hey all, 

Sorry if this has been cussed and discussed but I need recommendations. I am ready to start doing the "small" but important improvements to my shop. This one is top of the list. 

Whattayathink?
cheers
tim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

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_______________________________________________

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Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

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From 1789alpine at gmail.com  Sun Feb  7 19:11:16 2021
From: 1789alpine at gmail.com (Jim Stone)
Date: Sun, 7 Feb 2021 21:11:16 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] blast cabinet light upgrade/improvements badly
 needed
In-Reply-To: <DS7PR19MB4629023FB41775478783AC2CB48F9@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DS7PR19MB46296CBB11F7FDD40C7FBC1EB48F9@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <CEDD9456-6195-4EA8-9A30-17BADC835B0E@icloud.com>
 <DS7PR19MB4629023FB41775478783AC2CB48F9@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <AA030782-A9C1-4E3B-87F0-67338196252B@gmail.com>

I just used a cheap Harbor Freight stick on rechargeable light like this: https://www.harborfreight.com/200-lumen-rechargeable-work-light-with-magnetic-base-62529.html. I bought a pair of them on sale (and am pretty sure I paid a lot less than this) and swapped them out as needed.  They provided plenty of light and were easily aimable.  Plus, I didn?t need to worry about accidentally blasting through an electrical cord and I wasn?t going to be too concerned if one of them got damaged.

Jim

> On Feb 7, 2021, at 8:41 PM, Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com> wrote:
> 
> i tried exterior....i am getting too much reflection.
> 
> From: Pat Horne <patintexas at icloud.com>
> Sent: Sunday, February 7, 2021 7:38 PM
> To: Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>
> Cc: Shop-talk at autox.team.net <Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] blast cabinet light upgrade/improvements badly needed
>  
> I used a double head, exterior LED flood light  that I just lay on the top window of my countertop blast cabinet. I like that I can move it around to get light where you like it. 
> 
> Peace,
> Pat
> 
> Pat Horne 
> We support Habitat for Humanity
> 
> 
> On Feb 7, 2021, at 7:35 PM, Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Hey all, 
> 
> Sorry if this has been cussed and discussed but I need recommendations. I am ready to start doing the "small" but important improvements to my shop. This one is top of the list. 
> 
> Whattayathink?
> cheers
> tim
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789alpine at gmail.com

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From fishplate at gmail.com  Mon Feb  8 05:27:25 2021
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2021 07:27:25 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] blast cabinet light upgrade/improvements badly
 needed
In-Reply-To: <DS7PR19MB46296CBB11F7FDD40C7FBC1EB48F9@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DS7PR19MB46296CBB11F7FDD40C7FBC1EB48F9@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CNnBLEFgPF44Mziatc8FZu=E7F-FLijD+52O3Ks7LoWKw@mail.gmail.com>

When I got my HF tabletop cabinet, I got a GE Bright Stik fluorescent
fixture with integral cover to hang inside.  There was a convenient
spot to put the cord out.  Works great.

In the 21st century, I'd find a similar bright LED fixture to go inside.

On Sun, Feb 7, 2021 at 8:35 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com> wrote:
>
> Hey all,
>
> Sorry if this has been cussed and discussed but I need recommendations. I am ready to start doing the "small" but important improvements to my shop. This one is top of the list.
>
> Whattayathink?
> cheers
> tim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate at gmail.com
>

From eric at megageek.com  Mon Feb  8 08:04:06 2021
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2021 10:04:06 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] blast cabinet light upgrade/improvements badly
 needed
In-Reply-To: <DS7PR19MB46296CBB11F7FDD40C7FBC1EB48F9@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DS7PR19MB46296CBB11F7FDD40C7FBC1EB48F9@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <OFAD1E07EC.1EEBFFEE-ON85258676.00528AA8-85258676.0052C6E0@mail.megageek.com>

Tim,

What worked the best for me was to put a switch to turn off the light 
above the cabinet.  I use standard light bulb inside the cabinet, but once 
I switched OFF the light above the cabinet, it dramatically improved the 
vision inside the cabinet.
 
Maybe try turing off the lights in the shop and see if that works for you.

"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?



From:   "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>
To:     "shop-talk at autox.team.net" <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Date:   02/07/2021 20:34
Subject:        [Shop-talk] blast cabinet light upgrade/improvements badly 
needed
Sent by:        "Shop-talk" <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net>



Hey all, 

Sorry if this has been cussed and discussed but I need recommendations. I 
am ready to start doing the "small" but important improvements to my shop. 
This one is top of the list. 

Whattayathink?
cheers
tim_______________________________________________



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From tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com  Mon Feb  8 10:32:59 2021
From: tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com (Tim .)
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2021 17:32:59 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] blast cabinet light upgrade/improvements badly
 needed
In-Reply-To: <OFAD1E07EC.1EEBFFEE-ON85258676.00528AA8-85258676.0052C6E0@mail.megageek.com>
References: <DS7PR19MB46296CBB11F7FDD40C7FBC1EB48F9@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>,
 <OFAD1E07EC.1EEBFFEE-ON85258676.00528AA8-85258676.0052C6E0@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <DS7PR19MB4629CCFE410C3C86F75771CCB48F9@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>

Yes, I work in as dark a shop as I can. Next step is to cover the window in the back door of my shop to see if that helps. But, the light that came withe the HF cabinet is woefully dim (like its new owner. ha).

________________________________
From: eric at megageek.com <eric at megageek.com>
Sent: Monday, February 8, 2021 9:04 AM
To: Shop-talk at autox.team.net <Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Cc: Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] blast cabinet light upgrade/improvements badly needed

Tim,

What worked the best for me was to put a switch to turn off the light above the cabinet.  I use standard light bulb inside the cabinet, but once I switched OFF the light above the cabinet, it dramatically improved the vision inside the cabinet.

Maybe try turing off the lights in the shop and see if that works for you.

"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson
-Who is John Galt?



From:        "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>
To:        "shop-talk at autox.team.net" <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Date:        02/07/2021 20:34
Subject:        [Shop-talk] blast cabinet light upgrade/improvements badly needed
Sent by:        "Shop-talk" <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net>
________________________________



Hey all,

Sorry if this has been cussed and discussed but I need recommendations. I am ready to start doing the "small" but important improvements to my shop. This one is top of the list.

Whattayathink?
cheers
tim_______________________________________________



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From marka at maracing.com  Mon Feb  8 12:14:00 2021
From: marka at maracing.com (Mark Andy)
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2021 14:14:00 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] blast cabinet light upgrade/improvements badly
 needed
In-Reply-To: <DS7PR19MB4629CCFE410C3C86F75771CCB48F9@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DS7PR19MB46296CBB11F7FDD40C7FBC1EB48F9@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <OFAD1E07EC.1EEBFFEE-ON85258676.00528AA8-85258676.0052C6E0@mail.megageek.com>
 <DS7PR19MB4629CCFE410C3C86F75771CCB48F9@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAAoSWGMUuorvvepbVxooU4Khkpn6YLjSU-1A=Knkx1y3-Td9VA@mail.gmail.com>

Howdy,

Needing to have the shop dark is my clue that its long past time to change
the protective film on my blast cabinet...

If I were going to DIY a light setup these days, I'll look into those LED
strips.  A row of those in the top corners of the cabinet would work pretty
great I'd guess.

Mark

On Mon, Feb 8, 2021 at 12:35 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com> wrote:

> Yes, I work in as dark a shop as I can. Next step is to cover the window
> in the back door of my shop to see if that helps. But, the light that came
> withe the HF cabinet is woefully dim (like its new owner. ha).
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* eric at megageek.com <eric at megageek.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, February 8, 2021 9:04 AM
> *To:* Shop-talk at autox.team.net <Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> *Cc:* Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>
> *Subject:* Re: [Shop-talk] blast cabinet light upgrade/improvements badly
> needed
>
> Tim,
>
> What worked the best for me was to put a switch to turn off the light
> above the cabinet.  I use standard light bulb inside the cabinet, but once
> I switched OFF the light above the cabinet, it dramatically improved the
> vision inside the cabinet.
>
> Maybe try turing off the lights in the shop and see if that works for you.
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt?
>
>
>
> From:        "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>
> To:        "shop-talk at autox.team.net" <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> Date:        02/07/2021 20:34
> Subject:        [Shop-talk] blast cabinet light upgrade/improvements
> badly needed
> Sent by:        "Shop-talk" <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net>
> ------------------------------
>
>
>
> Hey all,
>
> Sorry if this has been cussed and discussed but I need recommendations. I
> am ready to start doing the "small" but important improvements to my shop.
> This one is top of the list.
>
> Whattayathink?
> cheers
> tim_______________________________________________
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/marka at maracing.com
>
>
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From marka at maracing.com  Mon Feb  8 12:16:24 2021
From: marka at maracing.com (Mark Andy)
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2021 14:16:24 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] blast cabinet light upgrade/improvements badly
 needed
In-Reply-To: <CAAoSWGMUuorvvepbVxooU4Khkpn6YLjSU-1A=Knkx1y3-Td9VA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <DS7PR19MB46296CBB11F7FDD40C7FBC1EB48F9@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <OFAD1E07EC.1EEBFFEE-ON85258676.00528AA8-85258676.0052C6E0@mail.megageek.com>
 <DS7PR19MB4629CCFE410C3C86F75771CCB48F9@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAAoSWGMUuorvvepbVxooU4Khkpn6YLjSU-1A=Knkx1y3-Td9VA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAAoSWGN1Q_X1HWAzjKP6byW_uet_bR+ryYHq4Puks8L_pV6ZhQ@mail.gmail.com>

Howdy,

Something like this seems like a pretty nice way to go.  I have the 8'
versions in our garage and they're awesome.

https://www.amazon.com/Barrina-Fixture-Linkable-Workbench-Warehouse/dp/B081N5546H/ref=sr_1_5

Mark

On Mon, Feb 8, 2021 at 2:14 PM Mark Andy <marka at maracing.com> wrote:

> Howdy,
>
> Needing to have the shop dark is my clue that its long past time to change
> the protective film on my blast cabinet...
>
> If I were going to DIY a light setup these days, I'll look into those LED
> strips.  A row of those in the top corners of the cabinet would work pretty
> great I'd guess.
>
> Mark
>
> On Mon, Feb 8, 2021 at 12:35 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Yes, I work in as dark a shop as I can. Next step is to cover the window
>> in the back door of my shop to see if that helps. But, the light that came
>> withe the HF cabinet is woefully dim (like its new owner. ha).
>>
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* eric at megageek.com <eric at megageek.com>
>> *Sent:* Monday, February 8, 2021 9:04 AM
>> *To:* Shop-talk at autox.team.net <Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
>> *Cc:* Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Shop-talk] blast cabinet light upgrade/improvements
>> badly needed
>>
>> Tim,
>>
>> What worked the best for me was to put a switch to turn off the light
>> above the cabinet.  I use standard light bulb inside the cabinet, but once
>> I switched OFF the light above the cabinet, it dramatically improved the
>> vision inside the cabinet.
>>
>> Maybe try turing off the lights in the shop and see if that works for you.
>>
>> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
>> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
>> Waldo Emerson
>> -Who is John Galt?
>>
>>
>>
>> From:        "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>
>> To:        "shop-talk at autox.team.net" <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
>> Date:        02/07/2021 20:34
>> Subject:        [Shop-talk] blast cabinet light upgrade/improvements
>> badly needed
>> Sent by:        "Shop-talk" <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>>
>>
>> Hey all,
>>
>> Sorry if this has been cussed and discussed but I need recommendations. I
>> am ready to start doing the "small" but important improvements to my shop.
>> This one is top of the list.
>>
>> Whattayathink?
>> cheers
>> tim_______________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/marka at maracing.com
>>
>>
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From salty1249y at gmail.com  Mon Feb  8 12:53:44 2021
From: salty1249y at gmail.com (Michael Burdick)
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2021 13:53:44 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] blast cabinet light upgrade/improvements badly
 needed
In-Reply-To: <CAAoSWGMUuorvvepbVxooU4Khkpn6YLjSU-1A=Knkx1y3-Td9VA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <DS7PR19MB46296CBB11F7FDD40C7FBC1EB48F9@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <OFAD1E07EC.1EEBFFEE-ON85258676.00528AA8-85258676.0052C6E0@mail.megageek.com>
 <DS7PR19MB4629CCFE410C3C86F75771CCB48F9@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAAoSWGMUuorvvepbVxooU4Khkpn6YLjSU-1A=Knkx1y3-Td9VA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAOp9YT+QmXThRHxov9ExLq00aR=xcuuHEGvVNv3mJPNQGLDK6A@mail.gmail.com>

I did this 5 or 6 years ago now, so there are better "plug and play"
options now, but I used two LED strips mounted to a piece of aluminum angle
(a scrap I had lying around).  Each strip is about 11.5 inches long, so the
two together span the width of the 24" view window on my cabinet nicely.  I
mounted them temporarily-permanently at the top edge of the window with
duct tape so that the LED strips sitting flat on the glass.  Works like a
charm.  I do have to replace the duct tape every so often...

The strips I used put out 450 lumens each so I get 900 lumens total into
the blast cabinet with no glare since they are flat on the glass with the
aluminum covering them.  The manufacturer recommended mounting them to
aluminum bar for heat dissipation and had a special adhesive for that.  I
also had to buy a power supply.

More recently, I bought a set of strips on Amazon for under-cabinet
lighting at my work bench that would probably be just about as good for
less money and less effort as it was totally plug and play.

Hope this helps,
Mike


On Mon, Feb 8, 2021 at 1:15 PM Mark Andy <marka at maracing.com> wrote:

> Howdy,
>
> Needing to have the shop dark is my clue that its long past time to change
> the protective film on my blast cabinet...
>
> If I were going to DIY a light setup these days, I'll look into those LED
> strips.  A row of those in the top corners of the cabinet would work pretty
> great I'd guess.
>
> Mark
>
> On Mon, Feb 8, 2021 at 12:35 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Yes, I work in as dark a shop as I can. Next step is to cover the window
>> in the back door of my shop to see if that helps. But, the light that came
>> withe the HF cabinet is woefully dim (like its new owner. ha).
>>
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* eric at megageek.com <eric at megageek.com>
>> *Sent:* Monday, February 8, 2021 9:04 AM
>> *To:* Shop-talk at autox.team.net <Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
>> *Cc:* Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Shop-talk] blast cabinet light upgrade/improvements
>> badly needed
>>
>> Tim,
>>
>> What worked the best for me was to put a switch to turn off the light
>> above the cabinet.  I use standard light bulb inside the cabinet, but once
>> I switched OFF the light above the cabinet, it dramatically improved the
>> vision inside the cabinet.
>>
>> Maybe try turing off the lights in the shop and see if that works for you.
>>
>> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
>> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
>> Waldo Emerson
>> -Who is John Galt?
>>
>>
>>
>> From:        "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>
>> To:        "shop-talk at autox.team.net" <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
>> Date:        02/07/2021 20:34
>> Subject:        [Shop-talk] blast cabinet light upgrade/improvements
>> badly needed
>> Sent by:        "Shop-talk" <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>>
>>
>> Hey all,
>>
>> Sorry if this has been cussed and discussed but I need recommendations. I
>> am ready to start doing the "small" but important improvements to my shop.
>> This one is top of the list.
>>
>> Whattayathink?
>> cheers
>> tim_______________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/marka at maracing.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/salty1249y at gmail.com
>
>
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From lee at automate-it.com  Mon Feb  8 13:25:17 2021
From: lee at automate-it.com (lee at automate-it.com)
Date: Mon, 08 Feb 2021 14:25:17 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Replacement  florescent bulbs F42T6
In-Reply-To: <OFB468CF2F.FF52C65B-ON85258673.0046FBB5-85258673.0047D9DD@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OFB468CF2F.FF52C65B-ON85258673.0046FBB5-85258673.0047D9DD@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <427ee5fc36b0efed969fc08d116fc525@automate-it.com>

I needed under-counter lighting, and installed these last year:
https://amz.run/4I2z They're working great for me.  

No idea of the nature of your existing fixture, but it sure seems like
you could stick a row or three of these into an empty fixture.  

Yep, $16 for a 16-ft long strip, just cut to length. I just doubled back
for more light in a given area. Various color temperatures available
(and adjustable), the adhesive on the back is high quality and stuck
really well for me (to a very clean surface). You can spend a few bucks
more and get ones you control from your phone, etc.  

I also jumped around corners and across sections with these
https://amz.run/4I35 , these https://amz.run/4I36 and these
https://amz.run/4I3A . 

 -- Lee 

On 2021-02-05 07:04, eric at megageek.com wrote:

> Ok, this is a literal 'shop talk' problem, as this bulb is in a showcase in my shop (antique and collectables shop)  8>)  I hope there are no problems posting it here.  But I know there is better knowledge here than me. 
> 
> So, this showcase has a florescent light bulb F42T6.  (42" and T6 diameter.)  Which is a weird size length and very narrow, so I can't get a bigger diameter bulb. 
> 
> Now, this bulb seems to only be available by price gougers, (Chosen Supply has them for a mere $2,443.92.)   
> 
> Since this is in a active store and I can't easily remove the display case to modify it to fit something else, is there any other alternative for me? 
> 
> What I was thinking is they may be a LED replacement bulb that will fit or something?  Anyone know of such a replacement?  Or a quick and easy drop in replacement mount? 
> 
> Also, I may be closing the store in the next 6 months, so I don't want to dump tons of cash into this. 
> 
> BTW, if any of you are in NJ and check it out and see something you like in there, call me (number is on the wall) and it's yours for free! (I need to move inventory!) 
> 
> Thanks. 
> 
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson 
> -Who is John Galt?
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From kentsu at corvairkid.com  Mon Feb 15 16:57:43 2021
From: kentsu at corvairkid.com (The Corvair Kid)
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2021 15:57:43 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Need expertise: External halogen floodlight replacement
Message-ID: <028401d703f6$5b1463a0$113d2ae0$@corvairkid.com>

Hi all,

 

I am looking into replacing two long-serving halogen floodlights on the
exterior of my shop with LED units. I could use some help from the group in
understanding what choices provide an apples-to-apples replacement (or
better), in terms of overall brightness and similar coverage.

 

The existing units are Heath/Zenith Model SL-5525. A picture of one of them
is attached, as are pictures of a couple of pages of the installation
instructions (yes, I saved them from nearly 20 years ago!). These units each
use a single 250-Watt T3 bulb, which the Interwebz claims provide 4000
lumens. The lights are mounted approximately 15 feet above ground and shine
onto a bare concrete driveway.

 

As you can see, these units have both motion and light sensors, the
functionality of which I intend to carry forward into any LED replacements
being considered. In addition, I do not wish to remove or replace the
existing electrical box extensions mounted on the shop exterior. The wood is
clear cedar and I don't want to deal with fading or differing hole sizes. I
realize that this constrains my replacement choices a fair amount, since (it
appears) relatively-few LED lights use a standard round mounting plate. The
mounting location under the eave also restricts the size of any replacement
fixture. (Some high-lumen LEDs that I have found are quite large in size.)

 

With help from an electrical and lighting supplier near me, one candidate
(the only one so far) is made by OLF. A spec sheet is attached. As you can
see, the manufacturer claims that the two LED heads provide a total of 2160
lumens. The lighting supplier said that, due to the directionality of LEDs,
1/2 the number of lumens are needed for equivalent brightness to halogen.

 

So, group - any comments or recommendations would be most helpful. Do you
agree with the "LEDs can have 50% fewer lumens" claim? Any knowledge or
experience about the coverage ("cone") of a single halogen vs. 2 LEDs at ~15
feet height? Anything else I should consider?

 

Thanks,

 

--Kent

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From dhlocker at comcast.net  Mon Feb 15 17:15:51 2021
From: dhlocker at comcast.net (Donald H Locker)
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2021 19:15:51 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Need expertise: External halogen floodlight
 replacement
In-Reply-To: <028401d703f6$5b1463a0$113d2ae0$@corvairkid.com>
References: <028401d703f6$5b1463a0$113d2ae0$@corvairkid.com>
Message-ID: <2447f40c-14c2-b569-1d94-1c93ffe45c3f@comcast.net>

Whatever you install, I would recommend avoiding "daylight" colour LED
luminaires. They will ruin your night vision so places that are not
brightly illuminated will appear even darker.

Unless you plan to do surgery, go with the least illumination that
provides sufficient light to see what you need. More than that wastes
dollars and electricity and pollutes the night sky. And shuts off your
night vision so the rest of the property is less safe.

--
Donald.
--

On 2021-02-15 6:57 p.m., The Corvair Kid wrote:
> Hi all,
> 
> I am looking into replacing two long-serving halogen floodlights on the
> exterior of my shop with LED units. I could use some help from the group
> in understanding what choices provide an apples-to-apples replacement
> (or better), in terms of overall brightness and similar coverage.
> 
> The existing units are Heath/Zenith Model SL-5525. A picture of one of
> them is attached, as are pictures of a couple of pages of the
> installation instructions (yes, I saved them from nearly 20 years ago!).
> These units each use a single 250-Watt T3 bulb, which the Interwebz
> claims provide 4000 lumens. The lights are mounted approximately 15 feet
> above ground and shine onto a bare concrete driveway.
> 
> As you can see, these units have both motion and light sensors, the
> functionality of which I intend to carry forward into any LED
> replacements being considered. In addition, I do not wish to remove or
> replace the existing electrical box extensions mounted on the shop
> exterior. The wood is clear cedar and I don?t want to deal with fading
> or differing hole sizes. I realize that this constrains my replacement
> choices a fair amount, since (it appears) relatively-few LED lights use
> a standard round mounting plate. The mounting location under the eave
> also restricts the size of any replacement fixture. (Some high-lumen
> LEDs that I have found are quite large in size.)
> 
> With help from an electrical and lighting supplier near me, one
> candidate (the only one so far) is made by OLF. A spec sheet is
> attached. As you can see, the manufacturer claims that the two LED heads
> provide a total of 2160 lumens. The lighting supplier said that, due to
> the directionality of LEDs, 1/2 the number of lumens are needed for
> equivalent brightness to halogen.
> 
> So, group ? any comments or recommendations would be most helpful. Do
> you agree with the ?LEDs can have 50% fewer lumens? claim? Any knowledge
> or experience about the coverage (?cone?) of a single halogen vs. 2 LEDs
> at ~15 feet height? Anything else I should consider?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> ?
> 
> --Kent

From jdinnis at gmail.com  Mon Feb 15 17:40:13 2021
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2021 18:40:13 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Need expertise: External halogen floodlight
 replacement
In-Reply-To: <028401d703f6$5b1463a0$113d2ae0$@corvairkid.com>
References: <028401d703f6$5b1463a0$113d2ae0$@corvairkid.com>
Message-ID: <CANuE7YCYNHC_EdVYWSi-dmcRWCDby4i2FaxW9xsyjnX7djkpnQ@mail.gmail.com>

Depends on what you are looking for in terms of useful lighting.  Are you
just needing a little light to get into the house on dark nights?  Are you
shooting hoops on the driveway?  Working on cars outside on the drive?  The
task determines what level of illumination you need.  I installed high
lumen (22,000) LED floods for working on equipment outside the barn, but
these are aimed for horizon cutoff and are only used while working
outside.  For just enough light to get in the barn door I use 1000 lumen
LED's in a shaded fixture on a motion sensor.

On Mon, Feb 15, 2021 at 6:03 PM The Corvair Kid <kentsu at corvairkid.com>
wrote:

> Hi all,
>
>
>
> I am looking into replacing two long-serving halogen floodlights on the
> exterior of my shop with LED units. I could use some help from the group in
> understanding what choices provide an apples-to-apples replacement (or
> better), in terms of overall brightness and similar coverage.
>
>
>
> The existing units are Heath/Zenith Model SL-5525. A picture of one of
> them is attached, as are pictures of a couple of pages of the installation
> instructions (yes, I saved them from nearly 20 years ago!). These units
> each use a single 250-Watt T3 bulb, which the Interwebz claims provide 4000
> lumens. The lights are mounted approximately 15 feet above ground and shine
> onto a bare concrete driveway.
>
>
>
> As you can see, these units have both motion and light sensors, the
> functionality of which I intend to carry forward into any LED replacements
> being considered. In addition, I do not wish to remove or replace the
> existing electrical box extensions mounted on the shop exterior. The wood
> is clear cedar and I don?t want to deal with fading or differing hole
> sizes. I realize that this constrains my replacement choices a fair amount,
> since (it appears) relatively-few LED lights use a standard round mounting
> plate. The mounting location under the eave also restricts the size of any
> replacement fixture. (Some high-lumen LEDs that I have found are quite
> large in size.)
>
>
>
> With help from an electrical and lighting supplier near me, one candidate
> (the only one so far) is made by OLF. A spec sheet is attached. As you can
> see, the manufacturer claims that the two LED heads provide a total of 2160
> lumens. The lighting supplier said that, due to the directionality of LEDs,
> 1/2 the number of lumens are needed for equivalent brightness to halogen.
>
>
>
> So, group ? any comments or recommendations would be most helpful. Do you
> agree with the ?LEDs can have 50% fewer lumens? claim? Any knowledge or
> experience about the coverage (?cone?) of a single halogen vs. 2 LEDs at
> ~15 feet height? Anything else I should consider?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> --Kent
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================
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From markmiller at threeboysfarm.com  Mon Feb 15 23:23:34 2021
From: markmiller at threeboysfarm.com (Mark Miller)
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2021 22:23:34 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Need expertise: External halogen floodlight
 replacement
In-Reply-To: <mailman.6137.1613433473.2739.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.6137.1613433473.2739.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1c411523-ac01-78df-e9db-32d2bcef6060@threeboysfarm.com>

Hi.? I've recently done this but cannot see your attachments as shoptalk 
scrubbed them away (this might be due to my getting posts in a digest 
format).

In my application I replaced a twin quartz fixture with a knuckle 
mounted 50W LED rated 4500 lumens and separate motion/light sensor, both 
mounted to the existing round box with a new round (threaded hole) 
coverplate .? If the sensor you have is to your liking and still works 
you can reuse it and just change the light.
https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/electrical/lighting-outdoor/flood-lighting/led-flood-light-50w-4500-lumens-5000k-with-knuckle-mount
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B007HH01X0/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_5HXJ6ZFDYTHQ5RJW2QDA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 


You should be able to make it fit your application;? you might need a 
couple of 1/2" pipe fittings to space it away from the box a tad.? (this 
is said having not seen the image of your installation).

And: lumens are lumens.? If they are in a spot or more of a flood you 
will have different brightness (think lumens per square foot), but if 
the light isn't there it just isn't.

Regards,

Mark Miller   707-490-5834
markmiller at threeboysfarm.com


> From: "The Corvair Kid" <kentsu at corvairkid.com>
> To: <Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Need expertise: External halogen floodlight
> 	replacement
> Message-ID: <028401d703f6$5b1463a0$113d2ae0$@corvairkid.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Hi all,
>
>   
>
> I am looking into replacing two long-serving halogen floodlights on the
> exterior of my shop with LED units. I could use some help from the group in
> understanding what choices provide an apples-to-apples replacement (or
> better), in terms of overall brightness and similar coverage.
>
>   
>
> The existing units are Heath/Zenith Model SL-5525. A picture of one of them
> is attached, as are pictures of a couple of pages of the installation
> instructions (yes, I saved them from nearly 20 years ago!). These units each
> use a single 250-Watt T3 bulb, which the Interwebz claims provide 4000
> lumens. The lights are mounted approximately 15 feet above ground and shine
> onto a bare concrete driveway.
>
>   
>
> As you can see, these units have both motion and light sensors, the
> functionality of which I intend to carry forward into any LED replacements
> being considered. In addition, I do not wish to remove or replace the
> existing electrical box extensions mounted on the shop exterior. The wood is
> clear cedar and I don't want to deal with fading or differing hole sizes. I
> realize that this constrains my replacement choices a fair amount, since (it
> appears) relatively-few LED lights use a standard round mounting plate. The
> mounting location under the eave also restricts the size of any replacement
> fixture. (Some high-lumen LEDs that I have found are quite large in size.)
>
>   
>
> With help from an electrical and lighting supplier near me, one candidate
> (the only one so far) is made by OLF. A spec sheet is attached. As you can
> see, the manufacturer claims that the two LED heads provide a total of 2160
> lumens. The lighting supplier said that, due to the directionality of LEDs,
> 1/2 the number of lumens are needed for equivalent brightness to halogen.
>
>   
>
> So, group - any comments or recommendations would be most helpful. Do you
> agree with the "LEDs can have 50% fewer lumens" claim? Any knowledge or
> experience about the coverage ("cone") of a single halogen vs. 2 LEDs at ~15
> feet height? Anything else I should consider?
>
>   
>
> Thanks,
>
>   
>
> --Kent
>
>

From parkanzky at gmail.com  Wed Feb 17 08:23:19 2021
From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2021 10:23:19 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Need expertise: External halogen floodlight
 replacement
In-Reply-To: <028401d703f6$5b1463a0$113d2ae0$@corvairkid.com>
References: <028401d703f6$5b1463a0$113d2ae0$@corvairkid.com>
Message-ID: <CAOErii=COqJDXF2oKJcymRj0yAV1ZJ02jqt8D8e_Qn8U3rZ2KQ@mail.gmail.com>

I have a barn/shop that is in a rural area a few miles from my house. It's
in a very poor neighborhood so security is a concern. I have one of these
mounted on the front under the peak (probably about 15' up?) and another
ready to go up on the back when it's not -6 outside.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B085W9HFJP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I believe I put a round box up for it? I don't recall anymore as it was a
few months ago.

I intentionally point the heads pretty far down so they don't shine at the
homeowner across the street's house but they very easily illuminate the
drive/yard between the barn and the street, which is probably about 60'. I
also have a Wyze camera hung right next to it and it does a great job of
recording "events" when something triggers the motion sensor and the
light comes on. That usually means a half-dozen videos every week of cats
walking across the front of the barn at night... You do have to get within
about 20' of the barn to trigger the motion sensor on the lights. I'm not
sure if I have the sensitivity turned all the way up but it probably is.

For security lights I like the higher color temperature bulbs. They just
"look brighter" and the idea is for whomever triggered them to feel very
well illuminated.

Best Regards,

-Paul

On Mon, Feb 15, 2021 at 7:03 PM The Corvair Kid <kentsu at corvairkid.com>
wrote:

> Hi all,
>
>
>
> I am looking into replacing two long-serving halogen floodlights on the
> exterior of my shop with LED units. I could use some help from the group in
> understanding what choices provide an apples-to-apples replacement (or
> better), in terms of overall brightness and similar coverage.
>
>
>
> The existing units are Heath/Zenith Model SL-5525. A picture of one of
> them is attached, as are pictures of a couple of pages of the installation
> instructions (yes, I saved them from nearly 20 years ago!). These units
> each use a single 250-Watt T3 bulb, which the Interwebz claims provide 4000
> lumens. The lights are mounted approximately 15 feet above ground and shine
> onto a bare concrete driveway.
>
>
>
> As you can see, these units have both motion and light sensors, the
> functionality of which I intend to carry forward into any LED replacements
> being considered. In addition, I do not wish to remove or replace the
> existing electrical box extensions mounted on the shop exterior. The wood
> is clear cedar and I don?t want to deal with fading or differing hole
> sizes. I realize that this constrains my replacement choices a fair amount,
> since (it appears) relatively-few LED lights use a standard round mounting
> plate. The mounting location under the eave also restricts the size of any
> replacement fixture. (Some high-lumen LEDs that I have found are quite
> large in size.)
>
>
>
> With help from an electrical and lighting supplier near me, one candidate
> (the only one so far) is made by OLF. A spec sheet is attached. As you can
> see, the manufacturer claims that the two LED heads provide a total of 2160
> lumens. The lighting supplier said that, due to the directionality of LEDs,
> 1/2 the number of lumens are needed for equivalent brightness to halogen.
>
>
>
> So, group ? any comments or recommendations would be most helpful. Do you
> agree with the ?LEDs can have 50% fewer lumens? claim? Any knowledge or
> experience about the coverage (?cone?) of a single halogen vs. 2 LEDs at
> ~15 feet height? Anything else I should consider?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> --Kent
>
>
>
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From gsteve at hammatt.com  Thu Feb 25 23:48:44 2021
From: gsteve at hammatt.com (gsteve at hammatt.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2021 22:48:44 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Hand-held steam cleaner
Message-ID: <8792E541-2F9B-42BF-B470-B0F53C4F23FF@hammatt.com>

While I have a small pressure washer, it is not always smart especially in our wet and rainy times
What I?m looking for is user experience with a small unit being used inside the shop 
I could catch the droppings on paper and still clean engine bays with the help of low pressure steam
Thought?
Super thanks 

Steve Hammatt 
Mount Vernon WA USA
Sent from my iPhone

From eric at megageek.com  Fri Feb 26 05:02:47 2021
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2021 07:02:47 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Hand-held steam cleaner
In-Reply-To: <8792E541-2F9B-42BF-B470-B0F53C4F23FF@hammatt.com>
References: <8792E541-2F9B-42BF-B470-B0F53C4F23FF@hammatt.com>
Message-ID: <OF90052773.CEE63701-ON85258688.00420F7B-85258688.00422CBA@mail.megageek.com>

Steve,

I don't know if they make a 'tool' version, but the consumer 'steam 
buggies' types are a joke.  I would be interested in finding something 
that worked well also.


"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?



From:   gsteve at hammatt.com
To:     Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Date:   02/26/2021 01:49
Subject:        [Shop-talk] Hand-held steam cleaner
Sent by:        "Shop-talk" <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net>



While I have a small pressure washer, it is not always smart especially in 
our wet and rainy times
What I?m looking for is user experience with a small unit being used 
inside the shop 
I could catch the droppings on paper and still clean engine bays with the 
help of low pressure steam
Thought?
Super thanks 




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