From eric at megageek.com  Mon Nov  2 10:10:15 2020
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 2020 12:10:15 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Harbor Freight 7X12 metal bandsaw
Message-ID: <OF5F5B196B.9ED903D2-ON85258614.005DBBCC-85258614.005E5319@mail.megageek.com>

OK, so I'm upgrading my metal band saw and the HF 7X12 gets some great 
reviews.  Problem is, the new model upped the price to $1000.

https://www.harborfreight.com/1-hp-7-in-x-12-in-hydraulic-feed-metal-cutting-band-saw-63469.html
The normal 20%off coupons aren't valid for the CM machines.

So I was wondering if I could get collective here to use their apps and 
eyes to keep a look out for a coupon for this.  I can't currently find 
any, but most of the reviews on this machine state they bought it with a 
coupon that brought it under $700.

So if anyone has any apps that can watch for this sale (I haven't found 
any apps to do that) or if you notice it on sale, please let me know.

I'm not in a huge hurry to buy it, so I can wait (and with the holidays 
coming, I guess it might go on sale.) But I can buy it right away if there 
is an expiration on the coupon.

Thanks a ton!

BTW, this tool is part of a new endeavor I have going on.  Stay tuned for 
more details (especially SCUBA divers)!  8>)

Moose


"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?
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From parkanzky at gmail.com  Mon Nov  2 10:24:10 2020
From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky)
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 2020 12:24:10 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Harbor Freight 7X12 metal bandsaw
In-Reply-To: <OF5F5B196B.9ED903D2-ON85258614.005DBBCC-85258614.005E5319@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF5F5B196B.9ED903D2-ON85258614.005DBBCC-85258614.005E5319@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <CAOEriikwXoukAxbcbjatceSnBQJ8J8NwG4+TMn7n_WdsNucNvA@mail.gmail.com>

There are no coupons for it. But the place to look is:

www.hfqpdb.com

I open that site on my phone any time I'm in a HF and just search the
item numbers for whatever I'm interested in. It's invaluable.

-Paul

On Mon, Nov 2, 2020 at 12:11 PM <eric at megageek.com> wrote:
>
> OK, so I'm upgrading my metal band saw and the HF 7X12 gets some great reviews.  Problem is, the new model upped the price to $1000.
>
> https://www.harborfreight.com/1-hp-7-in-x-12-in-hydraulic-feed-metal-cutting-band-saw-63469.html
> The normal 20%off coupons aren't valid for the CM machines.
>
> So I was wondering if I could get collective here to use their apps and eyes to keep a look out for a coupon for this.  I can't currently find any, but most of the reviews on this machine state they bought it with a coupon that brought it under $700.
>
> So if anyone has any apps that can watch for this sale (I haven't found any apps to do that) or if you notice it on sale, please let me know.
>
> I'm not in a huge hurry to buy it, so I can wait (and with the holidays coming, I guess it might go on sale.) But I can buy it right away if there is an expiration on the coupon.
>
> Thanks a ton!
>
> BTW, this tool is part of a new endeavor I have going on.  Stay tuned for more details (especially SCUBA divers)!  8>)
>
> Moose
>
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________

From jdinnis at gmail.com  Mon Nov  2 10:25:51 2020
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 2020 11:25:51 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Harbor Freight 7X12 metal bandsaw
In-Reply-To: <OF5F5B196B.9ED903D2-ON85258614.005DBBCC-85258614.005E5319@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF5F5B196B.9ED903D2-ON85258614.005DBBCC-85258614.005E5319@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <CANuE7YCpLFUurA3qoxn7=GO3j9m1DDtMg=0cj3LP62TYTenqKQ@mail.gmail.com>

I bought a used Jet convertible in working order complete with a full
cooling system for less than half of that price.  Only issue with the one I
bought was the hydraulic feed needed new seals.  $50 worth of parts I feel
like I got a much better tool than the HF one.

On Mon, Nov 2, 2020 at 11:11 AM <eric at megageek.com> wrote:

> OK, so I'm upgrading my metal band saw and the HF 7X12 gets some great
> reviews.  Problem is, the new model upped the price to $1000.
>
>
> https://www.harborfreight.com/1-hp-7-in-x-12-in-hydraulic-feed-metal-cutting-band-saw-63469.html
> The normal 20%off coupons aren't valid for the CM machines.
>
> So I was wondering if I could get collective here to use their apps and
> eyes to keep a look out for a coupon for this.  I can't currently find any,
> but most of the reviews on this machine state they bought it with a coupon
> that brought it under $700.
>
> So if anyone has any apps that can watch for this sale (I haven't found
> any apps to do that) or if you notice it on sale, please let me know.
>
> I'm not in a huge hurry to buy it, so I can wait (and with the holidays
> coming, I guess it might go on sale.) But I can buy it right away if there
> is an expiration on the coupon.
>
> Thanks a ton!
>
> BTW, this tool is part of a new endeavor I have going on.  Stay tuned for
> more details (especially SCUBA divers)!  8>)
>
> Moose
>
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================
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From rande90 at gmail.com  Mon Nov  2 10:31:22 2020
From: rande90 at gmail.com (RandE)
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 2020 11:31:22 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Harbor Freight 7X12 metal bandsaw
In-Reply-To: <OF5F5B196B.9ED903D2-ON85258614.005DBBCC-85258614.005E5319@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF5F5B196B.9ED903D2-ON85258614.005DBBCC-85258614.005E5319@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <CAAWW_U3Nzke9MWXgRfk_niHF4iVZ=+o+5GRPmdXjUjy8c2qTRA@mail.gmail.com>

Harbor Freight had a 15% off coupon supposedly good on anything last
weekend.  It was part of their Black Friday sales.  It has expired now but
I would guess they will have more like it coming up soon for more Black
Friday sales.

Randy

On Mon, Nov 2, 2020 at 11:11 AM <eric at megageek.com> wrote:

> OK, so I'm upgrading my metal band saw and the HF 7X12 gets some great
> reviews.  Problem is, the new model upped the price to $1000.
>
>
> https://www.harborfreight.com/1-hp-7-in-x-12-in-hydraulic-feed-metal-cutting-band-saw-63469.html
> The normal 20%off coupons aren't valid for the CM machines.
>
> So I was wondering if I could get collective here to use their apps and
> eyes to keep a look out for a coupon for this.  I can't currently find any,
> but most of the reviews on this machine state they bought it with a coupon
> that brought it under $700.
>
> So if anyone has any apps that can watch for this sale (I haven't found
> any apps to do that) or if you notice it on sale, please let me know.
>
> I'm not in a huge hurry to buy it, so I can wait (and with the holidays
> coming, I guess it might go on sale.) But I can buy it right away if there
> is an expiration on the coupon.
>
> Thanks a ton!
>
> BTW, this tool is part of a new endeavor I have going on.  Stay tuned for
> more details (especially SCUBA divers)!  8>)
>
> Moose
>
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rande at pobox.com
>
>
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From tjcora at icloud.com  Sun Nov  8 10:02:50 2020
From: tjcora at icloud.com (Thomas Coradeschi)
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2020 12:02:50 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Offset handle cutting tools
Message-ID: <8B620A54-EF91-4E72-81C7-C24BF7EE5345@icloud.com>

All: I am in the process of adding foam insulation to the band joist (in the joist bays) in my basement. The joists are laminated I-beams, so I am cutting rectangular blocks of 2? foam, and using low expansion foam to fill the gaps and air seal it all. 

Even with the low E foam, it still ends up oozing out of the gaps, and looks pretty cheesy, according to the homeowner. It cleans up nicely with a single edge razor blade, but my knuckles will be a bloody mess (there is a total of about 150? of perimeter) if I can?t find a way to trim flush with something other than the standard blade holder. 

So, I am looking for a holder for either single edge razor blades or drywall knife blades which allows me to trim flush with some sort of an offset handle. I?ve look at the box store and Grainger websites, nothing to be found there. 

Hoping someone has some ideas!

Thanks...

Tom Coradeschi
tjcora at icloud.com


From 1789alpine at gmail.com  Sun Nov  8 10:52:45 2020
From: 1789alpine at gmail.com (Jim Stone)
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2020 12:52:45 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Offset handle cutting tools
In-Reply-To: <8B620A54-EF91-4E72-81C7-C24BF7EE5345@icloud.com>
References: <8B620A54-EF91-4E72-81C7-C24BF7EE5345@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <E16A1E14-5F85-4C2F-B2F2-9005FF0FDD9D@gmail.com>

How about a multi-tool?  It is probably overkill from a power perspective, but they do a great job of slicing though foam.

> On Nov 8, 2020, at 12:02 PM, Thomas Coradeschi <tjcora at icloud.com> wrote:
> 
> All: I am in the process of adding foam insulation to the band joist (in the joist bays) in my basement. The joists are laminated I-beams, so I am cutting rectangular blocks of 2? foam, and using low expansion foam to fill the gaps and air seal it all. 
> 
> Even with the low E foam, it still ends up oozing out of the gaps, and looks pretty cheesy, according to the homeowner. It cleans up nicely with a single edge razor blade, but my knuckles will be a bloody mess (there is a total of about 150? of perimeter) if I can?t find a way to trim flush with something other than the standard blade holder. 
> 
> So, I am looking for a holder for either single edge razor blades or drywall knife blades which allows me to trim flush with some sort of an offset handle. I?ve look at the box store and Grainger websites, nothing to be found there. 
> 
> Hoping someone has some ideas!
> 
> Thanks...
> 
> Tom Coradeschi
> tjcora at icloud.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789alpine at gmail.com
> 


From jdinnis at gmail.com  Sun Nov  8 11:19:52 2020
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2020 12:19:52 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Offset handle cutting tools
In-Reply-To: <8B620A54-EF91-4E72-81C7-C24BF7EE5345@icloud.com>
References: <8B620A54-EF91-4E72-81C7-C24BF7EE5345@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <CANuE7YBdLsBa5CC881edTQ33d0bg0Th9WzWF1irWfRJTK4yrYQ@mail.gmail.com>

Try an oscillating tool?  I bought one of these last year and I keep
finding more and more uses for it.
https://youtu.be/Aery_46QEVU

On Sun, Nov 8, 2020 at 11:42 AM Thomas Coradeschi <tjcora at icloud.com> wrote:

> All: I am in the process of adding foam insulation to the band joist (in
> the joist bays) in my basement. The joists are laminated I-beams, so I am
> cutting rectangular blocks of 2? foam, and using low expansion foam to fill
> the gaps and air seal it all.
>
> Even with the low E foam, it still ends up oozing out of the gaps, and
> looks pretty cheesy, according to the homeowner. It cleans up nicely with a
> single edge razor blade, but my knuckles will be a bloody mess (there is a
> total of about 150? of perimeter) if I can?t find a way to trim flush with
> something other than the standard blade holder.
>
> So, I am looking for a holder for either single edge razor blades or
> drywall knife blades which allows me to trim flush with some sort of an
> offset handle. I?ve look at the box store and Grainger websites, nothing to
> be found there.
>
> Hoping someone has some ideas!
>
> Thanks...
>
> Tom Coradeschi
> tjcora at icloud.com
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================
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From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Sun Nov  8 11:23:21 2020
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell)
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2020 13:23:21 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Offset handle cutting tools
In-Reply-To: <8B620A54-EF91-4E72-81C7-C24BF7EE5345@icloud.com>
References: <8B620A54-EF91-4E72-81C7-C24BF7EE5345@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <bb636993-afbf-f611-16c2-d300504c836d@mebtel.net>

Browse some woodworking tool catalogs. They make flush cutting saws 
(some with offset handles, some with thin flexible blades) for tasks 
like cutting wooden pegs flush. Maybe that would work for you?

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

On 11/8/2020 12:02 PM, Thomas Coradeschi wrote:
> So, I am looking for a holder for either single edge razor blades or drywall knife blades which allows me to trim flush with some sort of an offset handle. I?ve look at the box store and Grainger websites, nothing to be found there.
>
> Hoping someone has some ideas!


From dhlocker at comcast.net  Sun Nov  8 12:22:19 2020
From: dhlocker at comcast.net (Donald H Locker)
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2020 14:22:19 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Offset handle cutting tools
In-Reply-To: <8B620A54-EF91-4E72-81C7-C24BF7EE5345@icloud.com>
References: <8B620A54-EF91-4E72-81C7-C24BF7EE5345@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <302d75bd-d989-bcfd-6b88-8edd93be22b7@comcast.net>

I'm not sure which direction you need the offset, but have you
considered attaching a handle from (e.g.) a mason's trowel to a blade
holder? Or even just honing the trowel edge to a useful sharpness?
Perhaps countersink some flathead screws into the face of the trowel and
use flat washers on top (with wingnuts or such) to clamp the blade?

Just throwing out ideas here.
Donald.
--
*Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
() no proprietary attachments; no html mail
/\ <https://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml>

On 2020-11-08 12:02 p.m., Thomas Coradeschi wrote:
> All: I am in the process of adding foam insulation to the band joist (in the joist bays) in my basement. The joists are laminated I-beams, so I am cutting rectangular blocks of 2? foam, and using low expansion foam to fill the gaps and air seal it all. 
> 
> Even with the low E foam, it still ends up oozing out of the gaps, and looks pretty cheesy, according to the homeowner. It cleans up nicely with a single edge razor blade, but my knuckles will be a bloody mess (there is a total of about 150? of perimeter) if I can?t find a way to trim flush with something other than the standard blade holder. 
> 
> So, I am looking for a holder for either single edge razor blades or drywall knife blades which allows me to trim flush with some sort of an offset handle. I?ve look at the box store and Grainger websites, nothing to be found there. 
> 
> Hoping someone has some ideas!
> 
> Thanks...
> 
> Tom Coradeschi
> tjcora at icloud.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dhlocker at comcast.net
> 

From stearman809 at gmail.com  Sun Nov  8 13:20:15 2020
From: stearman809 at gmail.com (Karl Vacek)
Date: Sun, 08 Nov 2020 14:20:15 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Offset handle cutting tools
In-Reply-To: <bb636993-afbf-f611-16c2-d300504c836d@mebtel.net>
References: <8B620A54-EF91-4E72-81C7-C24BF7EE5345@icloud.com>
 <bb636993-afbf-f611-16c2-d300504c836d@mebtel.net>
Message-ID: <175a9843418.28bf.cd27845553c78383775132770b7455be@gmail.com>

I've had my entire roof foamed with closed cell.  I didn't bother the 
workers during the installation because the supervisor assured me they'd 
tarp everything, and there's a little smell if you're in the vapor while 
it's being applied.  Imagine my delight when they not only got foam on 
every possible surface, but used the stack of new 3/4 T&G fir plywood (that 
was up there for me to install a floor when they finished) as their drop 
cloths.  Still waiting for them to return and clean it up.  Not going to 
happen.

I used my cheap Horrible Freight multi tool with the plain scraping blade 
to clean off their mess from the plywood and joist tops and it's pretty fast.

PS 7 to 8 inches of closed cell foam under the roof is pretty much a 
miracle as far as insulation.  Fire retardant, glues everything together, 
keeps heat in and also summer heat out.  One thing - it's hard stuff and 
thus NOT sound absorbent.  We actually hear the rain on the roof better 
now.  Not a bad thing.

Karl


On November 8, 2020 12:43:18 PM Eric Russell <ejrussell at mebtel.net> wrote:

> Browse some woodworking tool catalogs. They make flush cutting saws
> (some with offset handles, some with thin flexible blades) for tasks
> like cutting wooden pegs flush. Maybe that would work for you?
>
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
>
> On 11/8/2020 12:02 PM, Thomas Coradeschi wrote:
>> So, I am looking for a holder for either single edge razor blades or 
>> drywall knife blades which allows me to trim flush with some sort of an 
>> offset handle. I?ve look at the box store and Grainger websites, nothing to 
>> be found there.
>>
>> Hoping someone has some ideas!
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/stearman809 at gmail.com

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From dhlocker at comcast.net  Sun Nov  8 13:52:11 2020
From: dhlocker at comcast.net (Donald H Locker)
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2020 15:52:11 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Offset handle cutting tools
In-Reply-To: <175a9843418.28bf.cd27845553c78383775132770b7455be@gmail.com>
References: <8B620A54-EF91-4E72-81C7-C24BF7EE5345@icloud.com>
 <bb636993-afbf-f611-16c2-d300504c836d@mebtel.net>
 <175a9843418.28bf.cd27845553c78383775132770b7455be@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <89004a22-bd60-e504-286d-c68d1fcc35b0@comcast.net>

Sounds like interesting material. Do you know how it behaves if a
shingle should leak? Does it leak through? get soggy? other?

TIA
Donald.
--
*Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
() no proprietary attachments; no html mail
/\ <https://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml>

On 2020-11-08 3:20 p.m., Karl Vacek wrote:
> I've had my entire roof foamed with closed cell.? I didn't bother the
> workers during the installation because the supervisor assured me they'd
> tarp everything, and there's a little smell if you're in the vapor while
> it's being applied.? Imagine my delight?when they not only got foam on
> every possible surface, but used the stack of new 3/4 T&G fir plywood
> (that was up there for me to install a floor when they finished) as
> their drop cloths.? Still waiting for them to return and clean it up.?
> Not going to happen.
> 
> I used my cheap Horrible Freight multi tool with the plain scraping
> blade to clean off their mess from the plywood and joist tops and it's
> pretty fast.
> 
> PS 7 to 8 inches of closed cell foam under the roof is pretty much a
> miracle as far as insulation.? Fire retardant, glues everything
> together, keeps heat in and also summer heat out.? One thing - it's hard
> stuff and thus NOT sound absorbent.? We actually hear the rain on the
> roof better now.? Not a bad thing.
> 
> Karl
> 
> 
> On November 8, 2020 12:43:18 PM Eric Russell <ejrussell at mebtel.net> wrote:
> 
>> Browse some woodworking tool catalogs. They make flush cutting saws?
>> (some with offset handles, some with thin flexible blades) for tasks?
>> like cutting wooden pegs flush. Maybe that would work for you?
>>
>> Eric Russell
>> Mebane, NC
>>
>> On 11/8/2020 12:02 PM, Thomas Coradeschi wrote:
>>> So, I am looking for a holder for either single edge razor blades or
>>> drywall knife blades which allows me to trim flush with some sort of
>>> an offset handle. I?ve look at the box store and Grainger websites,
>>> nothing to be found there.
>>>
>>> Hoping someone has some ideas!
>>

From stearman809 at gmail.com  Sun Nov  8 14:55:40 2020
From: stearman809 at gmail.com (Karl Vacek)
Date: Sun, 08 Nov 2020 15:55:40 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Offset handle cutting tools
In-Reply-To: <89004a22-bd60-e504-286d-c68d1fcc35b0@comcast.net>
References: <8B620A54-EF91-4E72-81C7-C24BF7EE5345@icloud.com>
 <bb636993-afbf-f611-16c2-d300504c836d@mebtel.net>
 <175a9843418.28bf.cd27845553c78383775132770b7455be@gmail.com>
 <89004a22-bd60-e504-286d-c68d1fcc35b0@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <175a9db8f60.28bf.cd27845553c78383775132770b7455be@gmail.com>

You have to completely seal the roof.  There's no ventilation so any water 
that gets in has no place to go to evaporate.

It's apparently more common in Texas and Florida than here in the Chicago 
area, but it's catching on.  Studies show only a tiny increase in roof temp 
and a tiny loss of shingle life without ventilation.  Shingle manufacturers 
vary in their responses, with some okaying the practice and some refusing 
to warrantee any roof so installed, but shingle warrantees are a joke 
anyway, so this is just one more way to get a claim refused.  I'm using 
100% coverage of high temp ice and water shield.

On November 8, 2020 3:01:04 PM Donald H Locker <dhlocker at comcast.net> wrote:

> Sounds like interesting material. Do you know how it behaves if a
> shingle should leak? Does it leak through? get soggy? other?
>
> TIA
> Donald.
> --
> *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
> () no proprietary attachments; no html mail
> /\ <https://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml>
>
> On 2020-11-08 3:20 p.m., Karl Vacek wrote:
>> I've had my entire roof foamed with closed cell.  I didn't bother the
>> workers during the installation because the supervisor assured me they'd
>> tarp everything, and there's a little smell if you're in the vapor while
>> it's being applied.  Imagine my delight when they not only got foam on
>> every possible surface, but used the stack of new 3/4 T&G fir plywood
>> (that was up there for me to install a floor when they finished) as
>> their drop cloths.  Still waiting for them to return and clean it up.
>> Not going to happen.
>>
>> I used my cheap Horrible Freight multi tool with the plain scraping
>> blade to clean off their mess from the plywood and joist tops and it's
>> pretty fast.
>>
>> PS 7 to 8 inches of closed cell foam under the roof is pretty much a
>> miracle as far as insulation.  Fire retardant, glues everything
>> together, keeps heat in and also summer heat out.  One thing - it's hard
>> stuff and thus NOT sound absorbent.  We actually hear the rain on the
>> roof better now.  Not a bad thing.
>>
>> Karl
>>
>>
>> On November 8, 2020 12:43:18 PM Eric Russell <ejrussell at mebtel.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Browse some woodworking tool catalogs. They make flush cutting saws
>>> (some with offset handles, some with thin flexible blades) for tasks
>>> like cutting wooden pegs flush. Maybe that would work for you?
>>>
>>> Eric Russell
>>> Mebane, NC
>>>
>>> On 11/8/2020 12:02 PM, Thomas Coradeschi wrote:
>>>> So, I am looking for a holder for either single edge razor blades or
>>>> drywall knife blades which allows me to trim flush with some sort of
>>>> an offset handle. I?ve look at the box store and Grainger websites,
>>>> nothing to be found there.
>>>>
>>>> Hoping someone has some ideas!
>>>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/stearman809 at gmail.com

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From jamesf at groupwbench.org  Mon Nov  9 06:17:16 2020
From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 2020 08:17:16 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Offset handle cutting tools
In-Reply-To: <302d75bd-d989-bcfd-6b88-8edd93be22b7@comcast.net>
References: <8B620A54-EF91-4E72-81C7-C24BF7EE5345@icloud.com>
 <302d75bd-d989-bcfd-6b88-8edd93be22b7@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <73421C93-01E9-4CFF-B9CD-1DD210896118@groupwbench.org>

SImilar to this, I have a window scraper with an angled handle, thta accetpts a single edge razor. 

I had my house foamed in a similar fashion but I left it. I do not envy you! There's probably  a market for pre-cast foam to sit in between I-joists, thought that would demand precise framing and, well...

jim

> On Nov 8, 2020, at 2:22 PM, Donald H Locker <dhlocker at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> I'm not sure which direction you need the offset, but have you
> considered attaching a handle from (e.g.) a mason's trowel to a blade
> holder? Or even just honing the trowel edge to a useful sharpness?
> Perhaps countersink some flathead screws into the face of the trowel and
> use flat washers on top (with wingnuts or such) to clamp the blade?
> 
> Just throwing out ideas here.
> Donald.
> --
> *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
> () no proprietary attachments; no html mail
> /\ <https://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml>
> 
> On 2020-11-08 12:02 p.m., Thomas Coradeschi wrote:
>> All: I am in the process of adding foam insulation to the band joist (in the joist bays) in my basement. The joists are laminated I-beams, so I am cutting rectangular blocks of 2? foam, and using low expansion foam to fill the gaps and air seal it all. 
>> 
>> Even with the low E foam, it still ends up oozing out of the gaps, and looks pretty cheesy, according to the homeowner. It cleans up nicely with a single edge razor blade, but my knuckles will be a bloody mess (there is a total of about 150? of perimeter) if I can?t find a way to trim flush with something other than the standard blade holder. 
>> 
>> So, I am looking for a holder for either single edge razor blades or drywall knife blades which allows me to trim flush with some sort of an offset handle. I?ve look at the box store and Grainger websites, nothing to be found there. 
>> 
>> Hoping someone has some ideas!
>> 
>> Thanks...
>> 
>> Tom Coradeschi
>> tjcora at icloud.com
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dhlocker at comcast.net
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org
> 


From dhlocker at comcast.net  Mon Nov  9 06:49:59 2020
From: dhlocker at comcast.net (Donald H Locker)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 2020 08:49:59 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Offset handle cutting tools
In-Reply-To: <73421C93-01E9-4CFF-B9CD-1DD210896118@groupwbench.org>
References: <8B620A54-EF91-4E72-81C7-C24BF7EE5345@icloud.com>
 <302d75bd-d989-bcfd-6b88-8edd93be22b7@comcast.net>
 <73421C93-01E9-4CFF-B9CD-1DD210896118@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <0990d894-0bf3-223d-d42b-29e48112a446@comcast.net>

I like the pre-cast foam idea; how about pre-cast sections that are
tapered slightly (say 1/4"; small end toward roof,) with
regularly-spaced holed for backfill injection. Lift the block into
place; insert the tool and shoot backfill foam in to secure and complete
the fill; next block.

Just a thought if someone wants to try.
Donald.
--
*Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
() no proprietary attachments; no html mail
/\ <https://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml>

On 2020-11-09 8:17 a.m., Jim Franklin wrote:
> SImilar to this, I have a window scraper with an angled handle, thta accetpts a single edge razor. 
> 
> I had my house foamed in a similar fashion but I left it. I do not envy you! There's probably  a market for pre-cast foam to sit in between I-joists, thought that would demand precise framing and, well...
> 
> jim
> 
>> On Nov 8, 2020, at 2:22 PM, Donald H Locker <dhlocker at comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>> I'm not sure which direction you need the offset, but have you
>> considered attaching a handle from (e.g.) a mason's trowel to a blade
>> holder? Or even just honing the trowel edge to a useful sharpness?
>> Perhaps countersink some flathead screws into the face of the trowel and
>> use flat washers on top (with wingnuts or such) to clamp the blade?
>>
>> Just throwing out ideas here.
>> Donald.
>> --
>> *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
>> () no proprietary attachments; no html mail
>> /\ <https://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml>
>>
>> On 2020-11-08 12:02 p.m., Thomas Coradeschi wrote:
>>> All: I am in the process of adding foam insulation to the band joist (in the joist bays) in my basement. The joists are laminated I-beams, so I am cutting rectangular blocks of 2? foam, and using low expansion foam to fill the gaps and air seal it all. 
>>>
>>> Even with the low E foam, it still ends up oozing out of the gaps, and looks pretty cheesy, according to the homeowner. It cleans up nicely with a single edge razor blade, but my knuckles will be a bloody mess (there is a total of about 150? of perimeter) if I can?t find a way to trim flush with something other than the standard blade holder. 
>>>
>>> So, I am looking for a holder for either single edge razor blades or drywall knife blades which allows me to trim flush with some sort of an offset handle. I?ve look at the box store and Grainger websites, nothing to be found there. 
>>>
>>> Hoping someone has some ideas!
>>>
>>> Thanks...
>>>
>>> Tom Coradeschi
>>> tjcora at icloud.com
>>>

> 

From shannahquilts at gmail.com  Mon Nov  9 11:20:42 2020
From: shannahquilts at gmail.com (Shannah Miller)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 2020 10:20:42 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Offset handle cutting tools
In-Reply-To: <0990d894-0bf3-223d-d42b-29e48112a446@comcast.net>
References: <8B620A54-EF91-4E72-81C7-C24BF7EE5345@icloud.com>
 <302d75bd-d989-bcfd-6b88-8edd93be22b7@comcast.net>
 <73421C93-01E9-4CFF-B9CD-1DD210896118@groupwbench.org>
 <0990d894-0bf3-223d-d42b-29e48112a446@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAAy7z=110tKfbuQmdMtBLTeLBgp7P6BBZ0pyiSkQj_+rvX26FQ@mail.gmail.com>

This sounds similar to filling the gaps in SIPs, which seems to work
pretty well.  Pure Living for Life (YouTube) has a video showing the
dramatic improvement in insulating efficiency.

Shannah

On Mon, Nov 9, 2020 at 6:00 AM Donald H Locker <dhlocker at comcast.net> wrote:

> I like the pre-cast foam idea; how about pre-cast sections that are
> tapered slightly (say 1/4"; small end toward roof,) with
> regularly-spaced holed for backfill injection. Lift the block into
> place; insert the tool and shoot backfill foam in to secure and complete
> the fill; next block.
>
> Just a thought if someone wants to try.
> Donald.
> --
> *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
> () no proprietary attachments; no html mail
> /\ <https://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml>
>
> On 2020-11-09 8:17 a.m., Jim Franklin wrote:
> > SImilar to this, I have a window scraper with an angled handle, thta
> accetpts a single edge razor.
> >
> > I had my house foamed in a similar fashion but I left it. I do not envy
> you! There's probably  a market for pre-cast foam to sit in between
> I-joists, thought that would demand precise framing and, well...
> >
> > jim
> >
> >> On Nov 8, 2020, at 2:22 PM, Donald H Locker <dhlocker at comcast.net>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> I'm not sure which direction you need the offset, but have you
> >> considered attaching a handle from (e.g.) a mason's trowel to a blade
> >> holder? Or even just honing the trowel edge to a useful sharpness?
> >> Perhaps countersink some flathead screws into the face of the trowel and
> >> use flat washers on top (with wingnuts or such) to clamp the blade?
> >>
> >> Just throwing out ideas here.
> >> Donald.
> >> --
> >> *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
> >> () no proprietary attachments; no html mail
> >> /\ <https://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml>
> >>
> >> On 2020-11-08 12:02 p.m., Thomas Coradeschi wrote:
> >>> All: I am in the process of adding foam insulation to the band joist
> (in the joist bays) in my basement. The joists are laminated I-beams, so I
> am cutting rectangular blocks of 2? foam, and using low expansion foam to
> fill the gaps and air seal it all.
> >>>
> >>> Even with the low E foam, it still ends up oozing out of the gaps, and
> looks pretty cheesy, according to the homeowner. It cleans up nicely with a
> single edge razor blade, but my knuckles will be a bloody mess (there is a
> total of about 150? of perimeter) if I can?t find a way to trim flush with
> something other than the standard blade holder.
> >>>
> >>> So, I am looking for a holder for either single edge razor blades or
> drywall knife blades which allows me to trim flush with some sort of an
> offset handle. I?ve look at the box store and Grainger websites, nothing to
> be found there.
> >>>
> >>> Hoping someone has some ideas!
> >>>
> >>> Thanks...
> >>>
> >>> Tom Coradeschi
> >>> tjcora at icloud.com
> >>>
>
> >
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shannahquilts at gmail.com
>
>
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From tjcora at icloud.com  Mon Nov  9 22:08:17 2020
From: tjcora at icloud.com (Thomas Coradeschi)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2020 00:08:17 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Offset handle cutting tools
In-Reply-To: <73421C93-01E9-4CFF-B9CD-1DD210896118@groupwbench.org>
References: <73421C93-01E9-4CFF-B9CD-1DD210896118@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <8A15E5B3-9E27-427C-A7BF-32D82C62AD2D@icloud.com>

Jim - that would probably be exactly what I need. Time to walk the aisles at my local hardware store...

Tom Coradeschi
tjcora at icloud.com


> On Nov 9, 2020, at 8:19 AM, Jim Franklin <jamesf at groupwbench.org> wrote:
> 
> ?SImilar to this, I have a window scraper with an angled handle, thta accetpts a single edge razor. 
> 
> I had my house foamed in a similar fashion but I left it. I do not envy you! There's probably  a market for pre-cast foam to sit in between I-joists, thought that would demand precise framing and, well...
> 
> jim
> 
>> On Nov 8, 2020, at 2:22 PM, Donald H Locker <dhlocker at comcast.net> wrote:
>> 
>> I'm not sure which direction you need the offset, but have you
>> considered attaching a handle from (e.g.) a mason's trowel to a blade
>> holder? Or even just honing the trowel edge to a useful sharpness?
>> Perhaps countersink some flathead screws into the face of the trowel and
>> use flat washers on top (with wingnuts or such) to clamp the blade?
>> 
>> Just throwing out ideas here.
>> Donald.
>> --
>> *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
>> () no proprietary attachments; no html mail
>> /\ <https://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml>
>> 
>>> On 2020-11-08 12:02 p.m., Thomas Coradeschi wrote:
>>> All: I am in the process of adding foam insulation to the band joist (in the joist bays) in my basement. The joists are laminated I-beams, so I am cutting rectangular blocks of 2? foam, and using low expansion foam to fill the gaps and air seal it all. 
>>> 
>>> Even with the low E foam, it still ends up oozing out of the gaps, and looks pretty cheesy, according to the homeowner. It cleans up nicely with a single edge razor blade, but my knuckles will be a bloody mess (there is a total of about 150? of perimeter) if I can?t find a way to trim flush with something other than the standard blade holder. 
>>> 
>>> So, I am looking for a holder for either single edge razor blades or drywall knife blades which allows me to trim flush with some sort of an offset handle. I?ve look at the box store and Grainger websites, nothing to be found there. 
>>> 
>>> Hoping someone has some ideas!
>>> 
>>> Thanks...
>>> 
>>> Tom Coradeschi
>>> tjcora at icloud.com
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> 
>>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dhlocker at comcast.net
>>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org
>> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tjcora at icloud.com
> 

From tjcora at icloud.com  Wed Nov 11 07:30:12 2020
From: tjcora at icloud.com (Thomas Coradeschi)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2020 09:30:12 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Offset handle cutting tools
In-Reply-To: <CANuE7YBdLsBa5CC881edTQ33d0bg0Th9WzWF1irWfRJTK4yrYQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANuE7YBdLsBa5CC881edTQ33d0bg0Th9WzWF1irWfRJTK4yrYQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7125FE2D-461F-4C92-BED7-24C239B903DE@icloud.com>

John - that is exactly what I need to do (except that my rigid foam is vertical, not horizontal)! If the angled window scraper idea doesn?t pan out, this will def be the next step. 

Tom Coradeschi
tjcora at icloud.com


> On Nov 8, 2020, at 1:42 PM, John Innis <jdinnis at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Try an oscillating tool?  I bought one of these last year and I keep finding more and more uses for it.  
> https://youtu.be/Aery_46QEVU
> 
>> On Sun, Nov 8, 2020 at 11:42 AM Thomas Coradeschi <tjcora at icloud.com> wrote:
>> All: I am in the process of adding foam insulation to the band joist (in the joist bays) in my basement. The joists are laminated I-beams, so I am cutting rectangular blocks of 2? foam, and using low expansion foam to fill the gaps and air seal it all. 
>> 
>> Even with the low E foam, it still ends up oozing out of the gaps, and looks pretty cheesy, according to the homeowner. It cleans up nicely with a single edge razor blade, but my knuckles will be a bloody mess (there is a total of about 150? of perimeter) if I can?t find a way to trim flush with something other than the standard blade holder. 
>> 
>> So, I am looking for a holder for either single edge razor blades or drywall knife blades which allows me to trim flush with some sort of an offset handle. I?ve look at the box store and Grainger websites, nothing to be found there. 
>> 
>> Hoping someone has some ideas!
>> 
>> Thanks...
>> 
>> Tom Coradeschi
>> tjcora at icloud.com
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com
>> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> =================================
> = Never offend people with style when you   =
> = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
> =================================
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From eric at megageek.com  Fri Nov 13 06:46:10 2020
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 2020 08:46:10 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Noise cancelling headphones
Message-ID: <OFA30EE785.13166D4F-ON8525861F.004B0E7B-8525861F.004BA414@mail.megageek.com>

I was looking for recommendations for a good noise canceling set of 
headphones with a built in radio (and mp3 player is a plus)
I prefer normal batteries instead of built in rechargeable ones. Bluetooth 
isn't a consideration as I will most likely never use that.

Here is the leader I found so far...

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200356514_200356514


Does anyone have an other recommendations?  This will mostly be used when 
cutting grass/ chainsaw / using a wood chipper etc.

I do want to make sure the cushion is soft enough to seal when I am 
wearing eye protection (or is there a better way to wear eyepro when using 
headphones?)

Thanks in advance.


"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?
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From arvidj999 at gmail.com  Fri Nov 13 08:29:24 2020
From: arvidj999 at gmail.com (Arvid)
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 2020 09:29:24 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Noise cancelling headphones
In-Reply-To: <OFA30EE785.13166D4F-ON8525861F.004B0E7B-8525861F.004BA414@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OFA30EE785.13166D4F-ON8525861F.004B0E7B-8525861F.004BA414@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <9598c1b0-3b36-4a0d-263d-cc7a209ccf1d@gmail.com>

Have those.

Not great as just a passive noise reducing headset. Doesn't seal around the ears as well as I would like.

Not great as a active noise cancelling headset but I am comparing it to my Bose X aviation headset so the bar is pretty high.

Not great as a stereo headset. I have earbuds that sound better.

Having said all that, I don't know of anything is any better in that price range. They are reasonably sturdy and the user interface is usable, if not particularly easy to use with gloves on.

If they ever die I'll get another set rather than spend any time researching something else.

On 11/13/20 7:46 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote:
> I was looking for recommendations for a good noise canceling set of headphones with a built in radio (and mp3 player is a plus)
> I prefer normal batteries instead of built in rechargeable ones. Bluetooth isn't a consideration as I will most likely never use that.
>
> Here is the leader I found so far...
>
> https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200356514_200356514
>
>
> Does anyone have an other recommendations? ?This will mostly be used when cutting grass/ chainsaw / using a wood chipper etc.
>
> I do want to make sure the cushion is soft enough to seal when I am wearing eye protection (or is there a better way to wear eyepro when using headphones?)
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt?
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/arvidj999 at gmail.com
>
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From mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org  Fri Nov 13 12:12:55 2020
From: mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org (Jimmie Mayfield)
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 2020 14:12:55 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Noise cancelling headphones
In-Reply-To: <OFA30EE785.13166D4F-ON8525861F.004B0E7B-8525861F.004BA414@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OFA30EE785.13166D4F-ON8525861F.004B0E7B-8525861F.004BA414@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <9469cfb9-8fc7-ccee-e3a8-d66761c78d7a@sackheads.org>

If you're willing to do earphones instead of headphones, I really like 
Etymotic earphones for noise isolation.? They're not active 
noise-canceling but since they fit in the ear canal and make a good 
seal, they block a lot of noise. I have an older pair of their HF5 model 
and they'll drop the noise from my lawn mower and woodworking planer 
down to a distant hum. I think I read they'll drop some freqs by 35dB or 
more.? I connect them to a $8 bluetooth receiver dongle and stream music 
from my smartphone.

BTW, if you find the triple-flange tips to be off-putting, you can 
replace them with dual-flange tips that don't sit as deep in the ear.? 
They work almost as well.? You can also buy foam tips that expand to the 
shape of your ear canal..these work really, really well but you have to 
replace them pretty frequently.

J



On 11/13/20 08:46, eric at megageek.com wrote:
> I was looking for recommendations for a good noise canceling set of 
> headphones with a built in radio (and mp3 player is a plus)
> I prefer normal batteries instead of built in rechargeable ones. 
> Bluetooth isn't a consideration as I will most likely never use that.
>
> Here is the leader I found so far...
>
> https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200356514_200356514 
> <https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200356514_200356514>
>
>
> Does anyone have an other recommendations? ?This will mostly be used 
> when cutting grass/ chainsaw / using a wood chipper etc.
>
> I do want to make sure the cushion is soft enough to seal when I am 
> wearing eye protection (or is there a better way to wear eyepro when 
> using headphones?)
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org
>

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From markmiller at threeboysfarm.com  Sat Nov 14 01:10:56 2020
From: markmiller at threeboysfarm.com (Mark Miller)
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 2020 00:10:56 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Noise cancelling headphones (eric@megageek.com)
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7.1605294002.21046.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.7.1605294002.21046.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <6dec2f8b-2eb9-aa0c-5f68-6b10b9071915@threeboysfarm.com>

I have the bluetooth version of these and I think they are quite good.? 
Battery life (built in rechargeable, not replaceable) has been 
excellent.? I like the bluetooth feature, as I like to listen to music 
or podcasts from my phone.? But: they are not noise cancelling, just 
plain old ear protection.

And also note that they are $15 cheaper at Amazon.


Regards,

Mark Miller   707-490-5834
markmiller at threeboysfarm.com

> From: eric at megageek.com
> To: Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Noise cancelling headphones
> Message-ID:
> 	<OFA30EE785.13166D4F-ON8525861F.004B0E7B-8525861F.004BA414 at mail.megageek.com>
> 	
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I was looking for recommendations for a good noise canceling set of
> headphones with a built in radio (and mp3 player is a plus)
> I prefer normal batteries instead of built in rechargeable ones. Bluetooth
> isn't a consideration as I will most likely never use that.
>
> Here is the leader I found so far...
>
> https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200356514_200356514
>
>
> Does anyone have an other recommendations?  This will mostly be used when
> cutting grass/ chainsaw / using a wood chipper etc.
>
> I do want to make sure the cushion is soft enough to seal when I am
> wearing eye protection (or is there a better way to wear eyepro when using
> headphones?)
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>

From jmitch at snet.net  Sun Nov 15 14:27:51 2020
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 2020 16:27:51 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tire pressure gauge
References: <aa023d40-c7c0-7d45-6c33-29f9012aea8d.ref@snet.net>
Message-ID: <aa023d40-c7c0-7d45-6c33-29f9012aea8d@snet.net>

Does anyone have a recommendation for an accurate tire pressure gauge 
that you really like?? I don't care if it's digital or analog.? Thanks 
and Best Regards,? John Mitchell



From dirtbeard at gmail.com  Sun Nov 15 16:00:18 2020
From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard)
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 2020 15:00:18 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tire pressure gauge
In-Reply-To: <aa023d40-c7c0-7d45-6c33-29f9012aea8d@snet.net>
References: <aa023d40-c7c0-7d45-6c33-29f9012aea8d.ref@snet.net>
 <aa023d40-c7c0-7d45-6c33-29f9012aea8d@snet.net>
Message-ID: <CAG1pxgYZijhVUNWLR757db_Ehn8ZSYw5vxn=uR0X8GPYhj0rkw@mail.gmail.com>

Hi John,

I have tried quite a few over the years, and I generally prefer analog
gauges, but I am sold on the Motion Pro Digital gauge. Much easer to read
than than the analog gauges, and it is holding its accuracy very well. It
is billet-made, very rugged, and accurate to .5 PSI: The angled chuck is a
necessity for motorcycle tires, and the accuracy is very important for
motorcycles as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Digital-Pressure-Batteries/dp/B07GCS9ZCM/ref=asc_df_B07GCS9ZCM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312195936700&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7736302090254265378&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031024&hvtargid=pla-569349796015&psc=1

I have found that the analog gauges tend to lose accuracy over time, and
they are harder for me to read without my reading glasses. This digital
gauge is very easy to read.

best,
Doug

On Sun, Nov 15, 2020 at 1:30 PM John Mitchell <jmitch at snet.net> wrote:

> Does anyone have a recommendation for an accurate tire pressure gauge
> that you really like?  I don't care if it's digital or analog.  Thanks
> and Best Regards,  John Mitchell
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com
>
>
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From jmitch at snet.net  Sun Nov 15 16:12:44 2020
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 2020 18:12:44 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tire pressure gauge
In-Reply-To: <CAG1pxgYZijhVUNWLR757db_Ehn8ZSYw5vxn=uR0X8GPYhj0rkw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <aa023d40-c7c0-7d45-6c33-29f9012aea8d.ref@snet.net>
 <aa023d40-c7c0-7d45-6c33-29f9012aea8d@snet.net>
 <CAG1pxgYZijhVUNWLR757db_Ehn8ZSYw5vxn=uR0X8GPYhj0rkw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3c274c99-6034-4342-962b-627fb66abc5e@snet.net>

Thanks Doug, I will research it.

?Sent from BlueMail ?

On Nov 15, 2020, 6:00 PM, at 6:00 PM, old dirtbeard <dirtbeard at gmail.com> wrote:
>Hi John,
>
>I have tried quite a few over the years, and I generally prefer analog
>gauges, but I am sold on the Motion Pro Digital gauge. Much easer to
>read
>than than the analog gauges, and it is holding its accuracy very well.
>It
>is billet-made, very rugged, and accurate to .5 PSI: The angled chuck
>is a
>necessity for motorcycle tires, and the accuracy is very important for
>motorcycles as well.
>
>https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Digital-Pressure-Batteries/dp/B07GCS9ZCM/ref=asc_df_B07GCS9ZCM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312195936700&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7736302090254265378&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031024&hvtargid=pla-569349796015&psc=1
>
>I have found that the analog gauges tend to lose accuracy over time,
>and
>they are harder for me to read without my reading glasses. This digital
>gauge is very easy to read.
>
>best,
>Doug
>
>On Sun, Nov 15, 2020 at 1:30 PM John Mitchell <jmitch at snet.net> wrote:
>
>> Does anyone have a recommendation for an accurate tire pressure gauge
>> that you really like?  I don't care if it's digital or analog. 
>Thanks
>> and Best Regards,  John Mitchell
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Nov 15 19:45:56 2020
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 2020 19:45:56 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tire pressure gauge
In-Reply-To: <aa023d40-c7c0-7d45-6c33-29f9012aea8d@snet.net>
References: <aa023d40-c7c0-7d45-6c33-29f9012aea8d.ref@snet.net>
 <aa023d40-c7c0-7d45-6c33-29f9012aea8d@snet.net>
Message-ID: <0e1c4785-f3d1-bc08-47cd-f13da79b1c7c@bradakis.com>

On 11/15/20 2:27 PM, John Mitchell wrote:
> Does anyone have a recommendation for an accurate tire pressure gauge 
> that you really like?? I don't care if it's digital or analog. Thanks 
> and Best Regards,? John Mitchell 


Thanks to my years of autocross and road racing, I prefer gauges built 
for race cars.? I had a Racequip guage that gave up the ghost recently, 
no doubt droped too many times.? I replaced it with a Longacre liquid 
filled guage.? Check out the selection at Racer Parts Wholesale, 
https://racerpartswholesale.com/gauges-pit-tools/tire-pressure-gauges/ I 
doubt the $400 dollar units are what you are looking for, I imagine.

More mundane, everyday units are discussed here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sAX_AurmtaA


mjb.



From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Nov 15 20:46:55 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 2020 19:46:55 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tire pressure gauge
In-Reply-To: <0e1c4785-f3d1-bc08-47cd-f13da79b1c7c@bradakis.com>
References: <aa023d40-c7c0-7d45-6c33-29f9012aea8d.ref@snet.net>
 <aa023d40-c7c0-7d45-6c33-29f9012aea8d@snet.net>
 <0e1c4785-f3d1-bc08-47cd-f13da79b1c7c@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <3097271e-7016-d994-f5b3-c6660ea14fe3@comcast.net>

I've had a couple of these for several years:

https://www.autobarn.net/meams4020.html?site=google_base&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwMP9BRCzARIsAPWTJ_H52wVJ-AeVZTrgn0y21OHjVFc-oBjop_d4_uOvP5lvyhxK3spaY-QaAq6TEALw_wcB

I haven't checked against a calibrated source, but both agree with each 
other and my Mustang's TPMS readout.

Got one of these for the '46 Chevy 2-ton and tractors:

https://www.harborfreight.com/dual-head-air-chuck-inflator-with-dial-gauge-63544.html

It agrees within 1psi with the digital gauges.

Bob


On 11/15/2020 6:45 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> On 11/15/20 2:27 PM, John Mitchell wrote:
>> Does anyone have a recommendation for an accurate tire pressure gauge 
>> that you really like?? I don't care if it's digital or analog. Thanks 
>> and Best Regards,? John Mitchell 
>
>
> Thanks to my years of autocross and road racing, I prefer gauges built 
> for race cars.? I had a Racequip guage that gave up the ghost 
> recently, no doubt droped too many times.? I replaced it with a 
> Longacre liquid filled guage.? Check out the selection at Racer Parts 
> Wholesale, 
> https://racerpartswholesale.com/gauges-pit-tools/tire-pressure-gauges/ 
> I doubt the $400 dollar units are what you are looking for, I imagine.
>
> More mundane, everyday units are discussed here:
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sAX_AurmtaA
>
>
> mjb.
>


From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Nov 17 10:36:35 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 2020 09:36:35 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cotter Usage
Message-ID: <f0da9ea4-2f98-4d3e-d06b-a25b00ac7b13@comcast.net>

Got some 'quiet time' before I have to go look after my mom, and I 
thought I'd pose an arcane question to the List:

What do y'all consider the proper way to use a cotter key/pin? I've 
watched the pros on TV--Edd China, Ant Anstead, Goblin Garage, 
Fantomworks, etc. and the 'Chop it/Channel It/Drop a Crate Engine In 
It/Bag It/Put Huge Dubs and a Gaudy Paint Job On It and Call It a Day' 
hotrod builders, and they all do it a bit different. Usually, it's 'Type 
1'--see terrible hand-drawn 'art' attached (using a stub axle for 
example)--but I gave it a lot of thought and wondered 'Is that the best 
way?' Thinking it through, yes, any way you put a cotter in and secure 
it will do the job; i.e. keep the nut from coming completely undone. 
However, when safety-wiring--a skill I sorta learned maintaining my own 
aircraft--you're supposed to always wire so as to pull in the tightening 
direction, to resist any turning at all of the nut/bolt. So, when 
applicable--e.g. on castellated nuts--I torque until the cotter will 
just fit in the hole (drawing# 2), situated 'sideways'--where you can't 
see the eye of the cotter from the side--snug against the side of the 
nut's slot so as to resist the nut turning at all. Then, I bend the 
upper half of the cotter back over the nut/spindle, and snip the lower 
half at the edge of the nut, figuring anything longer than that isn't 
doing anything (plus it just looks neater IMO, and may be easier to 
remove if necessary).

FWIW, my late father, who was an auto shop teacher and had a few 
psychology classes under his belt said I was 'stuck at the anal 
retentive stage' of child development; I (think) he was kidding.

Bob
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From patintexas at icloud.com  Tue Nov 17 10:50:16 2020
From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 2020 11:50:16 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cotter Usage
In-Reply-To: <f0da9ea4-2f98-4d3e-d06b-a25b00ac7b13@comcast.net>
References: <f0da9ea4-2f98-4d3e-d06b-a25b00ac7b13@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C0805614-F72A-4720-91B0-C8C58B4F966C@icloud.com>

I?ve generally used #1 but, as you said, either should be fine. 

I stayed up the other night trying to decide if anal retentive was a single word, 2 words or hyphenated. Still don?t know. 

Keep well. 

Peace,
Pat 

Pat Horne 
We support Habitat for Humanity


On Nov 17, 2020, at 11:40 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

?Got some 'quiet time' before I have to go look after my mom, and I thought I'd pose an arcane question to the List:

What do y'all consider the proper way to use a cotter key/pin? I've watched the pros on TV--Edd China, Ant Anstead, Goblin Garage, Fantomworks, etc. and the 'Chop it/Channel It/Drop a Crate Engine In It/Bag It/Put Huge Dubs and a Gaudy Paint Job On It and Call It a Day' hotrod builders, and they all do it a bit different. Usually, it's 'Type 1'--see terrible hand-drawn 'art' attached (using a stub axle for example)--but I gave it a lot of thought and wondered 'Is that the best way?' Thinking it through, yes, any way you put a cotter in and secure it will do the job; i.e. keep the nut from coming completely undone. However, when safety-wiring--a skill I sorta learned maintaining my own aircraft--you're supposed to always wire so as to pull in the tightening direction, to resist any turning at all of the nut/bolt. So, when applicable--e.g. on castellated nuts--I torque until the cotter will just fit in the hole (drawing# 2), situated 'sideways'--where you can't see the eye of the cotter from the side--snug against the side of the nut's slot so as to resist the nut turning at all. Then, I bend the upper half of the cotter back over the nut/spindle, and snip the lower half at the edge of the nut, figuring anything longer than that isn't doing anything (plus it just looks neater IMO, and may be easier to remove if necessary).

FWIW, my late father, who was an auto shop teacher and had a few psychology classes under his belt said I was 'stuck at the anal retentive stage' of child development; I (think) he was kidding.

Bob
<IMG_0019.jpg>
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com


From jdinnis at gmail.com  Tue Nov 17 10:59:07 2020
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 2020 11:59:07 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cotter Usage
In-Reply-To: <f0da9ea4-2f98-4d3e-d06b-a25b00ac7b13@comcast.net>
References: <f0da9ea4-2f98-4d3e-d06b-a25b00ac7b13@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CANuE7YDZ+521pBjma6Z+D=AeWuxXdkODgzDoj_WB+uW7f08LmA@mail.gmail.com>

About 1000 years ago when I was in A&P school I was taught to do style #2.
THe main reason is that someone will eventually need to reach their hand
into a tight spot past the cotter pin you have installed.  If you used
style #2, you are much less likely to leave sharp edges that will shred the
hands of the next guy who has to work on this thing.  I actually had an
instructor who would look for stuff like this and if she found that you
left a sharp edge somewhere she would deliberately run you hand across it
in a way as to cause just enough damage to get the point across.  Not a
lesson I needed to have repeated.

On Tue, Nov 17, 2020 at 11:40 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Got some 'quiet time' before I have to go look after my mom, and I
> thought I'd pose an arcane question to the List:
>
> What do y'all consider the proper way to use a cotter key/pin? I've
> watched the pros on TV--Edd China, Ant Anstead, Goblin Garage,
> Fantomworks, etc. and the 'Chop it/Channel It/Drop a Crate Engine In
> It/Bag It/Put Huge Dubs and a Gaudy Paint Job On It and Call It a Day'
> hotrod builders, and they all do it a bit different. Usually, it's 'Type
> 1'--see terrible hand-drawn 'art' attached (using a stub axle for
> example)--but I gave it a lot of thought and wondered 'Is that the best
> way?' Thinking it through, yes, any way you put a cotter in and secure
> it will do the job; i.e. keep the nut from coming completely undone.
> However, when safety-wiring--a skill I sorta learned maintaining my own
> aircraft--you're supposed to always wire so as to pull in the tightening
> direction, to resist any turning at all of the nut/bolt. So, when
> applicable--e.g. on castellated nuts--I torque until the cotter will
> just fit in the hole (drawing# 2), situated 'sideways'--where you can't
> see the eye of the cotter from the side--snug against the side of the
> nut's slot so as to resist the nut turning at all. Then, I bend the
> upper half of the cotter back over the nut/spindle, and snip the lower
> half at the edge of the nut, figuring anything longer than that isn't
> doing anything (plus it just looks neater IMO, and may be easier to
> remove if necessary).
>
> FWIW, my late father, who was an auto shop teacher and had a few
> psychology classes under his belt said I was 'stuck at the anal
> retentive stage' of child development; I (think) he was kidding.
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================
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From dirtbeard at gmail.com  Tue Nov 17 11:24:44 2020
From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard)
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 2020 10:24:44 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cotter Usage
In-Reply-To: <f0da9ea4-2f98-4d3e-d06b-a25b00ac7b13@comcast.net>
References: <f0da9ea4-2f98-4d3e-d06b-a25b00ac7b13@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAG1pxgZaW9HbSTGadoAryGrSnsdzCUcyC-LxYjbpmPq-mqKJaw@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Bob,

I usually use #2 as it lets the "head" sit neatly into the slot and it
makes it easier to pry up and remove the long tail to extract the cotter.
It also seems to have fewer opportunities to cut your hand when you are
working on it.

I have one of these on the rear axle of my Harley which is exposed, so
appearances and sharp edges matter a bit more.

best,

doug

On Tue, Nov 17, 2020 at 9:40 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Got some 'quiet time' before I have to go look after my mom, and I
> thought I'd pose an arcane question to the List:
>
> What do y'all consider the proper way to use a cotter key/pin? I've
> watched the pros on TV--Edd China, Ant Anstead, Goblin Garage,
> Fantomworks, etc. and the 'Chop it/Channel It/Drop a Crate Engine In
> It/Bag It/Put Huge Dubs and a Gaudy Paint Job On It and Call It a Day'
> hotrod builders, and they all do it a bit different. Usually, it's 'Type
> 1'--see terrible hand-drawn 'art' attached (using a stub axle for
> example)--but I gave it a lot of thought and wondered 'Is that the best
> way?' Thinking it through, yes, any way you put a cotter in and secure
> it will do the job; i.e. keep the nut from coming completely undone.
> However, when safety-wiring--a skill I sorta learned maintaining my own
> aircraft--you're supposed to always wire so as to pull in the tightening
> direction, to resist any turning at all of the nut/bolt. So, when
> applicable--e.g. on castellated nuts--I torque until the cotter will
> just fit in the hole (drawing# 2), situated 'sideways'--where you can't
> see the eye of the cotter from the side--snug against the side of the
> nut's slot so as to resist the nut turning at all. Then, I bend the
> upper half of the cotter back over the nut/spindle, and snip the lower
> half at the edge of the nut, figuring anything longer than that isn't
> doing anything (plus it just looks neater IMO, and may be easier to
> remove if necessary).
>
> FWIW, my late father, who was an auto shop teacher and had a few
> psychology classes under his belt said I was 'stuck at the anal
> retentive stage' of child development; I (think) he was kidding.
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com
>
>
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From dhlocker at comcast.net  Tue Nov 17 11:39:02 2020
From: dhlocker at comcast.net (Donald H Locker)
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 2020 13:39:02 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cotter Usage
In-Reply-To: <f0da9ea4-2f98-4d3e-d06b-a25b00ac7b13@comcast.net>
References: <f0da9ea4-2f98-4d3e-d06b-a25b00ac7b13@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <2bba5f80-7407-25b1-0e6b-88ffd3fe8eda@comcast.net>

[Re-sending to include the list.]

I learned this method (and found support here
https://www.kitplanes.com/best-practices-safety-hardware/) to put the
pin in with the eye visible from the end of the stub, the wrap the legs
around the nut one in each direction.

Reasons for this way: if one leg fails, the other retains the cotter
pin; the cotter pin will not rotate about its axis and turn a weak spot
toward the nut's castellations; it is always easy to see that both legs
are secure and present; easy to pick the cotter pin back out because the
eye faces the operator and the legs are easy to access.

I also found this interesting article:
https://www.dropsonline.org/assets/documents/DROPS-Reliable-Securing-Rev03-Low-Resolution.pdf

Rather long, but very thorough, though more oriented to lifting rigging
and fasteners for same.

Donald.
--
*Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
() no proprietary attachments; no html mail
/\ <https://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml>

On 2020-11-17 12:36 p.m., Bob Spidell wrote:
> Got some 'quiet time' before I have to go look after my mom, and I
> thought I'd pose an arcane question to the List:
> 
> What do y'all consider the proper way to use a cotter key/pin? I've
> watched the pros on TV--Edd China, Ant Anstead, Goblin Garage,
> Fantomworks, etc. and the 'Chop it/Channel It/Drop a Crate Engine In
> It/Bag It/Put Huge Dubs and a Gaudy Paint Job On It and Call It a Day'
> hotrod builders, and they all do it a bit different. Usually, it's 'Type
> 1'--see terrible hand-drawn 'art' attached (using a stub axle for
> example)--but I gave it a lot of thought and wondered 'Is that the best
> way?' Thinking it through, yes, any way you put a cotter in and secure
> it will do the job; i.e. keep the nut from coming completely undone.
> However, when safety-wiring--a skill I sorta learned maintaining my own
> aircraft--you're supposed to always wire so as to pull in the tightening
> direction, to resist any turning at all of the nut/bolt. So, when
> applicable--e.g. on castellated nuts--I torque until the cotter will
> just fit in the hole (drawing# 2), situated 'sideways'--where you can't
> see the eye of the cotter from the side--snug against the side of the
> nut's slot so as to resist the nut turning at all. Then, I bend the
> upper half of the cotter back over the nut/spindle, and snip the lower
> half at the edge of the nut, figuring anything longer than that isn't
> doing anything (plus it just looks neater IMO, and may be easier to
> remove if necessary).
> 
> FWIW, my late father, who was an auto shop teacher and had a few
> psychology classes under his belt said I was 'stuck at the anal
> retentive stage' of child development; I (think) he was kidding.
> 
> Bob
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dhlocker at comcast.net
> 

From jamesf at groupwbench.org  Tue Nov 17 11:41:50 2020
From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin)
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 2020 13:41:50 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cotter Usage
In-Reply-To: <f0da9ea4-2f98-4d3e-d06b-a25b00ac7b13@comcast.net>
References: <f0da9ea4-2f98-4d3e-d06b-a25b00ac7b13@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <668EB578-C1B4-499A-A0B9-5D71D3356811@groupwbench.org>

I use type 1 because I never want to reduce my redundancy to zero. By clipping you now have only one tail securing the cotter pin. I'll win the lottery while being struck by lightning sooner than a cotter pin will fail in this way, but given the choice between two paths in a wood, I'll scramble up the virgin hillside. Also, clipping leaves its own sharper edge.

I like to wind the tails back on themselves so the sharp edge is encapsulated. I do this about 100 times more often in theory than in practice. :-)

jim

> On Nov 17, 2020, at 12:36 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> Got some 'quiet time' before I have to go look after my mom, and I thought I'd pose an arcane question to the List:
> 
> What do y'all consider the proper way to use a cotter key/pin? I've watched the pros on TV--Edd China, Ant Anstead, Goblin Garage, Fantomworks, etc. and the 'Chop it/Channel It/Drop a Crate Engine In It/Bag It/Put Huge Dubs and a Gaudy Paint Job On It and Call It a Day' hotrod builders, and they all do it a bit different. Usually, it's 'Type 1'--see terrible hand-drawn 'art' attached (using a stub axle for example)--but I gave it a lot of thought and wondered 'Is that the best way?' Thinking it through, yes, any way you put a cotter in and secure it will do the job; i.e. keep the nut from coming completely undone. However, when safety-wiring--a skill I sorta learned maintaining my own aircraft--you're supposed to always wire so as to pull in the tightening direction, to resist any turning at all of the nut/bolt. So, when applicable--e.g. on castellated nuts--I torque until the cotter will just fit in the hole (drawing# 2), situated 'sideways'--where you can't see the eye of the cotter from the side--snug against the side of the nut's slot so as to resist the nut turning at all. Then, I bend the upper half of the cotter back over the nut/spindle, and snip the lower half at the edge of the nut, figuring anything longer than that isn't doing anything (plus it just looks neater IMO, and may be easier to remove if necessary).
> 
> FWIW, my late father, who was an auto shop teacher and had a few psychology classes under his belt said I was 'stuck at the anal retentive stage' of child development; I (think) he was kidding.
> 
> Bob
> <IMG_0019.jpg>_______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org
> 


From tjcora at icloud.com  Tue Nov 17 19:54:28 2020
From: tjcora at icloud.com (Tom Coradeschi)
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 2020 21:54:28 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cotter Usage
In-Reply-To: <f0da9ea4-2f98-4d3e-d06b-a25b00ac7b13@comcast.net>
References: <f0da9ea4-2f98-4d3e-d06b-a25b00ac7b13@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <3CCD50D9-B196-479A-AF92-C83FB0B28036@icloud.com>

I?m sitting on the #2 bench (kinda like the group w bench?) and have been since the late 70?s. Never had one fail yet. The only cotters I?ve ever seen fail are ones which have been re-used, and that?s just being cheap for the sake of being cheap, in my view of things...

?
Tom Coradeschi
tjcora at icloud.com


> On 17 Nov 2020, at 12:36 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> Got some 'quiet time' before I have to go look after my mom, and I thought I'd pose an arcane question to the List:
> 
> What do y'all consider the proper way to use a cotter key/pin? I've watched the pros on TV--Edd China, Ant Anstead, Goblin Garage, Fantomworks, etc. and the 'Chop it/Channel It/Drop a Crate Engine In It/Bag It/Put Huge Dubs and a Gaudy Paint Job On It and Call It a Day' hotrod builders, and they all do it a bit different. Usually, it's 'Type 1'--see terrible hand-drawn 'art' attached (using a stub axle for example)--but I gave it a lot of thought and wondered 'Is that the best way?' Thinking it through, yes, any way you put a cotter in and secure it will do the job; i.e. keep the nut from coming completely undone. However, when safety-wiring--a skill I sorta learned maintaining my own aircraft--you're supposed to always wire so as to pull in the tightening direction, to resist any turning at all of the nut/bolt. So, when applicable--e.g. on castellated nuts--I torque until the cotter will just fit in the hole (drawing# 2), situated 'sideways'--where you can't see the eye of the cotter from the side--snug against the side of the nut's slot so as to resist the nut turning at all. Then, I bend the upper half of the cotter back over the nut/spindle, and snip the lower half at the edge of the nut, figuring anything longer than that isn't doing anything (plus it just looks neater IMO, and may be easier to remove if necessary).
> 
> FWIW, my late father, who was an auto shop teacher and had a few psychology classes under his belt said I was 'stuck at the anal retentive stage' of child development; I (think) he was kidding.
> 
> Bob
> <IMG_0019.jpg>_______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tjcora at icloud.com
> 


From strovato at optonline.net  Tue Nov 17 20:39:38 2020
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 2020 22:39:38 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cotter Usage
In-Reply-To: <f0da9ea4-2f98-4d3e-d06b-a25b00ac7b13@comcast.net>
References: <f0da9ea4-2f98-4d3e-d06b-a25b00ac7b13@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <B0.C0.27477.60894BF5@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

For questions like this I look to Carroll Smith's book "Nuts, Bolts, 
Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook" commonly referred to as "Screw to 
Win."  He says that your picture 2 is the preferred way, but picture 
1 is an alternate method.  He says:

"Insert the pin and give the closed end a tap with a drift to seat 
it.  Bend the ends over, one over the top of the bolt and the other 
axially against one flat of the nut.  If you can wiggle the cotter 
pin with your fingers, you did it wrong."

At 12:36 PM 11/17/2020, Bob Spidell wrote:
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
>Got some 'quiet time' before I have to go look after my mom, and I 
>thought I'd pose an arcane question to the List:
>
>What do y'all consider the proper way to use a cotter key/pin? I've 
>watched the pros on TV--Edd China, Ant Anstead, Goblin Garage, 
>Fantomworks, etc. and the 'Chop it/Channel It/Drop a Crate Engine In 
>It/Bag It/Put Huge Dubs and a Gaudy Paint Job On It and Call It a 
>Day' hotrod builders, and they all do it a bit different. Usually, 
>it's 'Type 1'--see terrible hand-drawn 'art' attached (using a stub 
>axle for example)--but I gave it a lot of thought and wondered 'Is 
>that the best way?' Thinking it through, yes, any way you put a 
>cotter in and secure it will do the job; i.e. keep the nut from 
>coming completely undone. However, when safety-wiring--a skill I 
>sorta learned maintaining my own aircraft--you're supposed to always 
>wire so as to pull in the tightening direction, to resist any 
>turning at all of the nut/bolt. So, when applicable--e.g. on 
>castellated nuts--I torque until the cotter will just fit in the 
>hole (drawing# 2), situated 'sideways'--where you can't see the eye 
>of the cotter from the side--snug against the side of the nut's slot 
>so as to resist the nut turning at all. Then, I bend the upper half 
>of the cotter back over the nut/spindle, and snip the lower half at 
>the edge of the nut, figuring anything longer than that isn't doing 
>anything (plus it just looks neater IMO, and may be easier to remove 
>if necessary).
>
>FWIW, my late father, who was an auto shop teacher and had a few 
>psychology classes under his belt said I was 'stuck at the anal 
>retentive stage' of child development; I (think) he was kidding.
>
>Bob


-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Nov 17 20:44:04 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 2020 19:44:04 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cotter Usage
In-Reply-To: <CANuE7YDZ+521pBjma6Z+D=AeWuxXdkODgzDoj_WB+uW7f08LmA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <f0da9ea4-2f98-4d3e-d06b-a25b00ac7b13@comcast.net>
 <CANuE7YDZ+521pBjma6Z+D=AeWuxXdkODgzDoj_WB+uW7f08LmA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3c3cd3ba-c6c2-423f-32dc-747644c8c051@comcast.net>

Same goes for safety wiring; I learned the hard way you have to tuck the 
ends back where they can't reach out and rip your hands.

On 11/17/2020 9:59 AM, John Innis wrote:
> About 1000 years ago when I was in A&P school I was taught to do style 
> #2.? THe main reason is that someone will eventually need to reach 
> their hand into a tight spot past the cotter pin you have installed.? 
> If you used style #2, you are much less likely to leave sharp edges 
> that will shred the hands of the next guy who has to work on this 
> thing.? I actually had an instructor who would look for stuff like 
> this and if she found that you left a sharp edge somewhere she would 
> deliberately run you hand across it in a way as to cause just enough 
> damage to get the point across.? Not a lesson I needed to have repeated.
>
> On Tue, Nov 17, 2020 at 11:40 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     Got some 'quiet time' before I have to go look after my mom, and I
>     thought I'd pose an arcane question to the List:
>
>     What do y'all consider the proper way to use a cotter key/pin? I've
>     watched the pros on TV--Edd China, Ant Anstead, Goblin Garage,
>     Fantomworks, etc. and the 'Chop it/Channel It/Drop a Crate Engine In
>     It/Bag It/Put Huge Dubs and a Gaudy Paint Job On It and Call It a
>     Day'
>     hotrod builders, and they all do it a bit different. Usually, it's
>     'Type
>     1'--see terrible hand-drawn 'art' attached (using a stub axle for
>     example)--but I gave it a lot of thought and wondered 'Is that the
>     best
>     way?' Thinking it through, yes, any way you put a cotter in and
>     secure
>     it will do the job; i.e. keep the nut from coming completely undone.
>     However, when safety-wiring--a skill I sorta learned maintaining
>     my own
>     aircraft--you're supposed to always wire so as to pull in the
>     tightening
>     direction, to resist any turning at all of the nut/bolt. So, when
>     applicable--e.g. on castellated nuts--I torque until the cotter will
>     just fit in the hole (drawing# 2), situated 'sideways'--where you
>     can't
>     see the eye of the cotter from the side--snug against the side of the
>     nut's slot so as to resist the nut turning at all. Then, I bend the
>     upper half of the cotter back over the nut/spindle, and snip the
>     lower
>     half at the edge of the nut, figuring anything longer than that isn't
>     doing anything (plus it just looks neater IMO, and may be easier to
>     remove if necessary).
>
>     FWIW, my late father, who was an auto shop teacher and had a few
>     psychology classes under his belt said I was 'stuck at the anal
>     retentive stage' of child development; I (think) he was kidding.
>
>     Bob
>

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Nov 17 21:06:17 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 2020 20:06:17 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cotter Usage
In-Reply-To: <B0.C0.27477.60894BF5@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
References: <f0da9ea4-2f98-4d3e-d06b-a25b00ac7b13@comcast.net>
 <B0.C0.27477.60894BF5@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <06659cef-82d1-439f-bce2-c6d07def7ecb@comcast.net>

He really, /really/ hates lockwashers. I've been a threadlocker devotee 
since reading his book, but have to say I've had a couple instances 
where only a sturdy split washer did the job (usually with a bolt in shear).

On 11/17/2020 7:39 PM, Steven Trovato wrote:
> For questions like this I look to Carroll Smith's book "Nuts, Bolts, 
> Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook" commonly referred to as "Screw to 
> Win."? He says that your picture 2 is the preferred way, but picture 1 
> is an alternate method.? He says:
>
> "Insert the pin and give the closed end a tap with a drift to seat 
> it.? Bend the ends over, one over the top of the bolt and the other 
> axially against one flat of the nut.? If you can wiggle the cotter pin 
> with your fingers, you did it wrong."
>
> At 12:36 PM 11/17/2020, Bob Spidell wrote:
>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>>
>> Got some 'quiet time' before I have to go look after my mom, and I 
>> thought I'd pose an arcane question to the List:
>>
>> What do y'all consider the proper way to use a cotter key/pin? I've 
>> watched the pros on TV--Edd China, Ant Anstead, Goblin Garage, 
>> Fantomworks, etc. and the 'Chop it/Channel It/Drop a Crate Engine In 
>> It/Bag It/Put Huge Dubs and a Gaudy Paint Job On It and Call It a 
>> Day' hotrod builders, and they all do it a bit different. Usually, 
>> it's 'Type 1'--see terrible hand-drawn 'art' attached (using a stub 
>> axle for example)--but I gave it a lot of thought and wondered 'Is 
>> that the best way?' Thinking it through, yes, any way you put a 
>> cotter in and secure it will do the job; i.e. keep the nut from 
>> coming completely undone. However, when safety-wiring--a skill I 
>> sorta learned maintaining my own aircraft--you're supposed to always 
>> wire so as to pull in the tightening direction, to resist any turning 
>> at all of the nut/bolt. So, when applicable--e.g. on castellated 
>> nuts--I torque until the cotter will just fit in the hole (drawing# 
>> 2), situated 'sideways'--where you can't see the eye of the cotter 
>> from the side--snug against the side of the nut's slot so as to 
>> resist the nut turning at all. Then, I bend the upper half of the 
>> cotter back over the nut/spindle, and snip the lower half at the edge 
>> of the nut, figuring anything longer than that isn't doing anything 
>> (plus it just looks neater IMO, and may be easier to remove if 
>> necessary).
>>
>> FWIW, my late father, who was an auto shop teacher and had a few 
>> psychology classes under his belt said I was 'stuck at the anal 
>> retentive stage' of child development; I (think) he was kidding.
>>
>> Bob
>
>

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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Wed Nov 18 07:36:38 2020
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2020 09:36:38 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cotter Usage
In-Reply-To: <3CCD50D9-B196-479A-AF92-C83FB0B28036@icloud.com>
References: <f0da9ea4-2f98-4d3e-d06b-a25b00ac7b13@comcast.net>
 <3CCD50D9-B196-479A-AF92-C83FB0B28036@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <017c01d6bdb8$39783660$ac68a320$@gmail.com>

So, you're saying that re-using cotter pins is a moral failing and gets you sent to the Group W bench? ? 

----------------
All the best,

Al Fuller

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Tom Coradeschi
Sent: Tuesday, November 17, 2020 9:54 PM
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cotter Usage

I?m sitting on the #2 bench (kinda like the group w bench?) and have been since the late 70?s. Never had one fail yet. The only cotters I?ve ever seen fail are ones which have been re-used, and that?s just being cheap for the sake of being cheap, in my view of things...

?
Tom Coradeschi
tjcora at icloud.com


> On 17 Nov 2020, at 12:36 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> Got some 'quiet time' before I have to go look after my mom, and I thought I'd pose an arcane question to the List:
> 
> What do y'all consider the proper way to use a cotter key/pin? I've watched the pros on TV--Edd China, Ant Anstead, Goblin Garage, Fantomworks, etc. and the 'Chop it/Channel It/Drop a Crate Engine In It/Bag It/Put Huge Dubs and a Gaudy Paint Job On It and Call It a Day' hotrod builders, and they all do it a bit different. Usually, it's 'Type 1'--see terrible hand-drawn 'art' attached (using a stub axle for example)--but I gave it a lot of thought and wondered 'Is that the best way?' Thinking it through, yes, any way you put a cotter in and secure it will do the job; i.e. keep the nut from coming completely undone. However, when safety-wiring--a skill I sorta learned maintaining my own aircraft--you're supposed to always wire so as to pull in the tightening direction, to resist any turning at all of the nut/bolt. So, when applicable--e.g. on castellated nuts--I torque until the cotter will just fit in the hole (drawing# 2), situated 'sideways'--where you can't see the eye of the cotter from the side--snug against the side of the nut's slot so as to resist the nut turning at all. Then, I bend the upper half of the cotter back over the nut/spindle, and snip the lower half at the edge of the nut, figuring anything longer than that isn't doing anything (plus it just looks neater IMO, and may be easier to remove if necessary).
> 
> FWIW, my late father, who was an auto shop teacher and had a few psychology classes under his belt said I was 'stuck at the anal retentive stage' of child development; I (think) he was kidding.
> 
> Bob
> <IMG_0019.jpg>_______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  
> $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tjcora at icloud.com
> 

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/alfuller194 at gmail.com



From eric at megageek.com  Wed Nov 18 08:01:08 2020
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2020 10:01:08 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cotter Usage
In-Reply-To: <017c01d6bdb8$39783660$ac68a320$@gmail.com>
References: <f0da9ea4-2f98-4d3e-d06b-a25b00ac7b13@comcast.net>
 <3CCD50D9-B196-479A-AF92-C83FB0B28036@icloud.com>
 <017c01d6bdb8$39783660$ac68a320$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <OF8F45222A.8A8549D2-ON85258624.00525DDD-85258624.005280CD@mail.megageek.com>

Al asks,

>So, you're saying that re-using cotter pins is a moral failing and gets 
you sent to the Group W bench? 

With the father r at pers?  8>)

Sing with me, "you can get, anything you want..."

"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Nov 22 17:53:32 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 2020 16:53:32 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Car Blow Driers
Message-ID: <ccf01e53-50c2-04e7-581d-cdf70e2ccb80@comcast.net>

My GF insists on buying me a Christmas present; I've been looking 
curiously at car blow driers for years, wondering if they're worth it 
(Wayne Carini endorses one, but that don't mean much).? When I hand-wash 
my cars I usually dry with a silicone 'squeegee' and micro-fiber towels, 
and I usually get a bit of swirls over time. Soooooo ...

1) do these work as (Wayne) advertises, and

2) is there a downside; like could you accidentally sand blast your 
paint with one of these,

3) prices are all over the place, from under $100 to over $400; I know, 
you get what you pay for, but given these are just large blow-driers is 
there something to look for?

TIA,
Bob



From markmiller at threeboysfarm.com  Thu Nov 26 11:23:04 2020
From: markmiller at threeboysfarm.com (Mark Miller)
Date: Thu, 26 Nov 2020 10:23:04 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Feeling uplifted?
In-Reply-To: <0cf5c90c-3b75-e9ce-2545-37fbfb8e4190@threeboysfarm.com>
References: <0cf5c90c-3b75-e9ce-2545-37fbfb8e4190@threeboysfarm.com>
Message-ID: <e82c9892-258f-da7b-5c6c-095d32858ca5@threeboysfarm.com>


Hi.? I am selling my place and need to offload a 4 post lift. Ideally 
I'd love to loan it to someone who could use it for free for a year or 
so and then get it back but am also totally amenable to selling it for 
cheap (thinking $750 or so) and then buying another one when I can again 
house it.? I bought it as a storage lift.? It's been up and down maybe 
10 times in 10 years but is that old.? It's in Sebastopol, CA and will 
need to be picked up within the next week or two.? Any interest?

-- 
Regards,

Mark Miller   707-490-5834
markmiller at threeboysfarm.com


From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Thu Nov 26 12:25:34 2020
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell)
Date: Thu, 26 Nov 2020 14:25:34 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Feeling uplifted?
In-Reply-To: <e82c9892-258f-da7b-5c6c-095d32858ca5@threeboysfarm.com>
References: <0cf5c90c-3b75-e9ce-2545-37fbfb8e4190@threeboysfarm.com>
 <e82c9892-258f-da7b-5c6c-095d32858ca5@threeboysfarm.com>
Message-ID: <accb5cc3-be01-92f6-572e-b6c667a19483@mebtel.net>

You may want to list it on the forum of Garage Journal 
<https://www.garagejournal.com/>. (do not blame me for all the time you 
waste spend there...)

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

On 11/26/2020 1:23 PM, Mark Miller wrote:
>
> Hi.? I am selling my place and need to offload a 4 post lift. Ideally 
> I'd love to loan it to someone who could use it for free for a year or 
> so and then get it back but am also totally amenable to selling it for 
> cheap (thinking $750 or so) and then buying another one when I can 
> again house it.? I bought it as a storage lift.? It's been up and down 
> maybe 10 times in 10 years but is that old.? It's in Sebastopol, CA 
> and will need to be picked up within the next week or two.? Any interest?
>
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From markmiller at threeboysfarm.com  Thu Nov 26 21:52:43 2020
From: markmiller at threeboysfarm.com (Mark Miller)
Date: Thu, 26 Nov 2020 20:52:43 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Lift available, Sebastopol, CA
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1606417202.16117.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1606417202.16117.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <e07d030a-9b60-707b-064b-154b5eb8edad@threeboysfarm.com>

Reposting to add the location to the subject line.? Thanks for the rec, PE!


Hi. I am selling my place and need to offload a 4 post lift. Ideally
I'd love to loan it to someone who could use it for free for a year or
so and then get it back but am also totally amenable to selling it for
cheap (thinking $750 or so) and then buying another one when I can again
house it. I bought it as a storage lift. It's been up and down maybe
10 times in 10 years but is that old. It's in Sebastopol, CA and will
need to be picked up within the next week or two. Any interest?


Regards,

Mark Miller   707-490-5834
markmiller at threeboysfarm.com