From neiljsherry at talktalk.net  Fri May  1 12:39:43 2020
From: neiljsherry at talktalk.net (Neil Sherry)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2020 19:39:43 +0100
Subject: [Shop-talk] Fog and Driving Lights
In-Reply-To: <CAO8Q7COiPNZBbLhiWtWbW_z36qQttrk4-aEZWuJGyv+HDe0D4A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0DB802A9-83F6-4F66-835F-C256F88F5637@gmail.com>
 <CAO8Q7COiPNZBbLhiWtWbW_z36qQttrk4-aEZWuJGyv+HDe0D4A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <03a201d61fe7$e21239c0$a636ad40$@talktalk.net>

Should work, I think. Just connect the first one to one light and the input of the second, then the other light to the output of the second relay.

What you are doing is effectively binary counting, stepping with each successive press of the switch:

00

01

10

11

00

?

Although I would question why you would want fog & spot lights on together ? I wpuld have thought one or the other ? it?s either foggy and you want the wide flat short beam or clear and you want the narrow longer throw.

Neil

 

 

From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Jeff Scarbrough via Shop-talk
Sent: 01 May 2020 01:56
To: Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fog and Driving Lights

 

 

 

On Thu, Apr 30, 2020 at 5:47 PM Jim Stone via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:shop-talk at autox.team.net> > wrote:


Does anyone know if such a relay exists?  If not, is there a simple circuit that would make a standard relay work as described?

 

 If I recall correctly, a pair of old VW headlight dimming relays would be a period-correct solution.  Grounding the relay by pulling on the turn signal lever would flip-flop the relay between high beam and low beam.  Or, in your case, on or off.  The old relays had to have the headlights on to power them, you would need to figure out how to remind yourself to turn the lights off or use a relay on the ignition wire to control the power.

Or, use one of them high-falutin' electronic gadgets...

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From eric at megageek.com  Sun May  3 10:54:12 2020
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 12:54:12 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Paint sprayers
Message-ID: <OFE5CAD8D7.AC486773-ON8525855D.005C1ADA-8525855D.005CDB47@mail.megageek.com>

Ok, so "Sandford" by big work truck is currently undergoing some major 
body work and will be getting new paint.  Both myself and my buddy haven't 
painted a car since the late 80's.

I see there are many different type of sprayers out there for automotive 
finishes.
There are the traditional sprayers with the can under the gun (and what I 
already have and used in the 80s.)
Then there are HVLP sprayers with the cups on top.
I also noticed these types seem to be the new norm...
https://www.harborfreight.com/64-oz-professional-hvlp-air-spray-gun-kit-62895.html 


So, here are my requirements.  I am painting this truck, which is a work 
truck and does NOT need an awesome finish. I also don't mind buying new 
tools.

So, do I spring for the 'pro' model HF?  I will most likely not be 
painting another car for a decade (maybe) so I don't think I need to get 
into real pro brands and pay top dollar. But I may paint here and there, 
NEVER for show, just for work stuff.

Or, do I paint with the old style I already have?

What is the advantages?  Is there any learning curve?

Thanks!

Mule

"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun May  3 11:23:01 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 10:23:01 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Paint sprayers
In-Reply-To: <OFE5CAD8D7.AC486773-ON8525855D.005C1ADA-8525855D.005CDB47@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OFE5CAD8D7.AC486773-ON8525855D.005C1ADA-8525855D.005CDB47@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <3eddae8e-60dd-2f43-35f0-efa7eb270d4b@comcast.net>

Others, with more experience and, maybe, a 'pro' will offer advice, but 
we--my father and I--were in the same position a few years ago. I bought 
this kit:

https://www.harborfreight.com/professional-automotive-hvlp-spray-gun-kit-94572.html

and we used it to paint a fairly valuable old British sports car (it 
came out OK, not great).? We used a one-stage paint; I'd have to go to 
the shop to find out for sure, but I believe it was one of the DuPont 
brands, not top-of-the-line, but not cheap either.? I'd only painted one 
car before, a junky Subaru Brat, and this was my first use of HVLP.? My 
impression of the HF paint gun is that it's a competent tool for the 
price, but it was trial-and-error for me.? I got quite a bit of orange 
peel, maybe because I used insufficient pressure at the gun; my dad said 
that one of the paint dealers told him we should 'crank the pressure 
up,' apparently the Low Pressure part of HVLP was more for environmental 
reasons than getting a good coat of paint.? If you watch the pros on the 
TV shows they pretty mug 'fog it on;' and since you probably don't have 
a booth and you're painting outdoors or in a shop wait for a 
no/little-wind day with no insects around, and wet the floor and the 
walls to keep dust down,

You'll want to put a oil/water separator inline after the compressor 
tank, and whatever gun you buy, be sure to put a filter and a pressure 
gauge at the gun; something like this: 
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Spray-Gun-Filter-Kit-HDA11900/305171973 
Practice on old sheetmetal, plywood, whatever you've got lying around to 
get a feel for the gun.? As always, preparation is 90% of the job; sand 
down to bare metal if you can, if not at least sand down to primer or 
the last really good coat of paint, then use one of the spray cleaners 
like this:

https://www.eastwood.com/ew-pre-painting-prep-aerosol-11oz.html?SRCCODE=PLA00020&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9LXhh5qY6QIViPhkCh3c4ACIEAQYBCABEgIaE_D_BwE

and a microfiber cloth.? Use a primer/sealer if you don't go to bare 
metal, or and epoxy primer if you do (esp. if you have to let the job 
sit in primer for more than a couple days).? Sand the primer down to 600 
or 800 grit, apply one or more coats of base color--with no more than 20 
minutes between them--let dry for a couple days then wet sand until 
you're happy with the finish.? Finish off with successive applications 
of finer grades of liquid polishing compounds.

Also stumbled across this (note I didn't read it, it just looked 
useful): https://tcpglobal.com/pages/paint-problem-solver? There's lots 
of videos online (Kevin Tetz has some good ones).

Good luck.

Bob

ps.? There's always a 'learning curve.'


On 5/3/2020 9:54 AM, eric--- via Shop-talk wrote:
> Ok, so "Sandford" by big work truck is currently undergoing some major 
> body work and will be getting new paint. ?Both myself and my buddy 
> haven't painted a car since the late 80's.
>
> I see there are many different type of sprayers out there for 
> automotive finishes.
> There are the traditional sprayers with the can under the gun (and 
> what I already have and used in the 80s.)
> Then there are HVLP sprayers with the cups on top.
> I also noticed these types seem to be the new norm...
> _https://www.harborfreight.com/64-oz-professional-hvlp-air-spray-gun-kit-62895.html_
>
> So, here are my requirements. ?I am painting this truck, which is a 
> work truck and does NOT need an awesome finish. I also don't mind 
> buying new tools.
>
> So, do I spring for the 'pro' model HF? ?I will most likely not be 
> painting another car for a decade (maybe) so I don't think I need to 
> get into real pro brands and pay top dollar. But I may paint here and 
> there, NEVER for show, just for work stuff.
>
> Or, do I paint with the old style I already have?
>
> What is the advantages? ?Is there any learning curve?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Mule
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a 
> rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your 
> territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt?
>
>

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From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Sun May  3 11:38:56 2020
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell)
Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 13:38:56 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Paint sprayers
In-Reply-To: <OFE5CAD8D7.AC486773-ON8525855D.005C1ADA-8525855D.005CDB47@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OFE5CAD8D7.AC486773-ON8525855D.005C1ADA-8525855D.005CDB47@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <55a87697-11d9-fa38-4b85-012d9bb92b54@mebtel.net>

I haven't bought painting equipment but I have bought other items from 
TP Tools and have been satisfied with their quality & quick shipping. I 
just today got an email that they are getting back to "normal" after 
closing for a while due to COVID 19.

https://www.tptools.com/

The advantage of HVLP sprayers is they use (waste) less material. But 
whether that savings will pay for the new equipment (plus the learning 
curve the new sprayer will likely require) is one I cannot answer. But 
who am I to vote against the purchase of a new tool..

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

On 5/3/2020 12:54 PM, eric--- via Shop-talk wrote:
> I see there are many different type of sprayers out there for 
> automotive finishes. 

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From fishplate at gmail.com  Sun May  3 11:42:39 2020
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 13:42:39 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Paint sprayers
In-Reply-To: <OFE5CAD8D7.AC486773-ON8525855D.005C1ADA-8525855D.005CDB47@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OFE5CAD8D7.AC486773-ON8525855D.005C1ADA-8525855D.005CDB47@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CNo=KkCtdYMgsbzymWPfwNEC_LYuQkhOTyas=h21rSt4Q@mail.gmail.com>

I've painted a lot of stuff with the cheap HF HVLP gun.  Mostly latex paint
on doors (including louvered doors) and it did a fine job.  Sprayed some
Rustoleum on some poorly-prepared metal, and got results that weren't
embarrassing.

As others say, the key is spending a bit of time practicing.  Learn how to
take the thing apart and clean it, and it becomes a tool you can use more
than once.

On Sun, May 3, 2020 at 12:57 PM eric--- via Shop-talk <
shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Ok, so "Sandford" by big work truck is currently undergoing some major
> body work and will be getting new paint.  Both myself and my buddy haven't
> painted a car since the late 80's.
>
> I see there are many different type of sprayers out there for automotive
> finishes.
> There are the traditional sprayers with the can under the gun (and what I
> already have and used in the 80s.)
> Then there are HVLP sprayers with the cups on top.
> I also noticed these types seem to be the new norm...
>
> *https://www.harborfreight.com/64-oz-professional-hvlp-air-spray-gun-kit-62895.html*
> <https://www.harborfreight.com/64-oz-professional-hvlp-air-spray-gun-kit-62895.html>
>
> So, here are my requirements.  I am painting this truck, which is a work
> truck and does NOT need an awesome finish. I also don't mind buying new
> tools.
>
> So, do I spring for the 'pro' model HF?  I will most likely not be
> painting another car for a decade (maybe) so I don't think I need to get
> into real pro brands and pay top dollar. But I may paint here and there,
> NEVER for show, just for work stuff.
>
> Or, do I paint with the old style I already have?
>
> What is the advantages?  Is there any learning curve?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Mule
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt? _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate at gmail.com
>
>
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From dhlocker at comcast.net  Sun May  3 11:54:10 2020
From: dhlocker at comcast.net (Donald H Locker)
Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 13:54:10 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Paint sprayers
In-Reply-To: <OFE5CAD8D7.AC486773-ON8525855D.005C1ADA-8525855D.005CDB47@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OFE5CAD8D7.AC486773-ON8525855D.005C1ADA-8525855D.005CDB47@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <dd3a478a-f5af-7c4b-c265-d5b01f6ab007@comcast.net>

[Resending - to the list so any misstatements I make can be rectified.]

Big advantage of HVLP is that the paint droplets don't "bounce" off the
surface, so you get better efficiency (pounds of paint on the
vehicle/pounds of paint from the can.) You may have to test a panel to
make sure you apply it thick enough to cover, but not so thick as to
orange peel or sag. (Orange peel comes from uneven vehicle evaporation
through thick; sag comes from just too much paint for surface tension to
hold in place.)

I can't speak to the current HF guns; mostly they are cheaper because of
looser fits and tolerances in bits like adjustment needles. e.g. you may
find that turning the flow-control needle in a half turn reduces flow
too much, but then you have to back it out 3/4 turn to get back to where
you started; wiggling or bumping the needle may change the flow even if
you don't turn it at all. So watch the adjustments.

If you run an HVLP gun at higher pressure, you'll end up wasting paint.
Run it at the lowest pressure that atomises the paint adequately and
that delivers it to the surface. (Too much pressure will just send it
off into a cloud that wanders away; too little and it won't reach the
panel.)

Oh, and follow the reducer/thinner/viscosity/temperature charts very
carefully!

HTH,
Donald.
--
*Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
() no proprietary attachments; no html mail
/\ <https://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml>

On 2020-05-03 12:54 p.m., eric--- via Shop-talk wrote:
> Ok, so "Sandford" by big work truck is currently undergoing some major
> body work and will be getting new paint. ?Both myself and my buddy
> haven't painted a car since the late 80's.
> 
> I see there are many different type of sprayers out there for automotive
> finishes.
> There are the traditional sprayers with the can under the gun (and what
> I already have and used in the 80s.)
> Then there are HVLP sprayers with the cups on top.
> I also noticed these types seem to be the new norm...
> _https://www.harborfreight.com/64-oz-professional-hvlp-air-spray-gun-kit-62895.html_
> 
> So, here are my requirements. ?I am painting this truck, which is a work
> truck and does NOT need an awesome finish. I also don't mind buying new
> tools.
> 
> So, do I spring for the 'pro' model HF? ?I will most likely not be
> painting another car for a decade (maybe) so I don't think I need to get
> into real pro brands and pay top dollar. But I may paint here and there,
> NEVER for show, just for work stuff.
> 
> Or, do I paint with the old style I already have?
> 
> What is the advantages? ?Is there any learning curve?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Mule
> 
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a
> rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your
> territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt?
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dhlocker at comcast.net
> 

From miq at bigllama.com  Sun May  3 12:02:42 2020
From: miq at bigllama.com (Miq Millman)
Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 11:02:42 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Paint sprayers
In-Reply-To: <OFE5CAD8D7.AC486773-ON8525855D.005C1ADA-8525855D.005CDB47@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OFE5CAD8D7.AC486773-ON8525855D.005C1ADA-8525855D.005CDB47@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <CALUbS3H8oW8z9KiFeni=29_ha+bCtmjPD4GPw=6e4UHsdfuARQ@mail.gmail.com>

Check out this unit:
https://www.eastwood.com/earlex-hvlp-turbine-5500-system.html

yeah it's 6X the Horror Fright unit, but you will save at least half of
that on the reduced overspray and better coverage per quart.

--
__
Miq Millman   miq at bigllama.com
Tualatin, OR  Big Llama Productions


On Sun, May 3, 2020 at 9:54 AM eric--- via Shop-talk <
shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Ok, so "Sandford" by big work truck is currently undergoing some major
> body work and will be getting new paint.  Both myself and my buddy haven't
> painted a car since the late 80's.
>
> I see there are many different type of sprayers out there for automotive
> finishes.
> There are the traditional sprayers with the can under the gun (and what I
> already have and used in the 80s.)
> Then there are HVLP sprayers with the cups on top.
> I also noticed these types seem to be the new norm...
>
> *https://www.harborfreight.com/64-oz-professional-hvlp-air-spray-gun-kit-62895.html*
> <https://www.harborfreight.com/64-oz-professional-hvlp-air-spray-gun-kit-62895.html>
>
> So, here are my requirements.  I am painting this truck, which is a work
> truck and does NOT need an awesome finish. I also don't mind buying new
> tools.
>
> So, do I spring for the 'pro' model HF?  I will most likely not be
> painting another car for a decade (maybe) so I don't think I need to get
> into real pro brands and pay top dollar. But I may paint here and there,
> NEVER for show, just for work stuff.
>
> Or, do I paint with the old style I already have?
>
> What is the advantages?  Is there any learning curve?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Mule
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt? _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/miq at bigllama.com
>
>
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From stearman809 at gmail.com  Sun May  3 12:53:44 2020
From: stearman809 at gmail.com (Karl Vacek)
Date: Sun, 03 May 2020 13:53:44 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Paint sprayers
In-Reply-To: <OFE5CAD8D7.AC486773-ON8525855D.005C1ADA-8525855D.005CDB47@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OFE5CAD8D7.AC486773-ON8525855D.005C1ADA-8525855D.005CDB47@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <171dbe312c0.28bf.cd27845553c78383775132770b7455be@gmail.com>

Not to discourage buying new tools, but since I worked for Binks through 
the 70's and into the mid 80's, I accumulated and used lots of quality 
spray equipment, even an electric airless unit.  Painted dozens of cars and 
thousands of squae feetback of walls back then.  In recent years I haven't 
painted as much, but my old guns still work just as well as they did then, 
and I know how to use them already.

Karl

On May 3, 2020 11:57:31 AM eric--- via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> 
wrote:
> Ok, so "Sandford"
> by big work truck is currently undergoing some major body work and will
> be getting new paint.  Both myself and my buddy haven't painted a
> car since the late 80's.
>
> I see there are
> many different type of sprayers out there for automotive finishes.
> There are the
> traditional sprayers with the can under the gun (and what I already have
> and used in the 80s.)
> Then there are
> HVLP sprayers with the cups on top.
> I also noticed
> these types seem to be the new norm...
> https://www.harborfreight.com/64-oz-professional-hvlp-air-spray-gun-kit-62895.html
>
>
> So, here are my
> requirements.  I am painting this truck, which is a work truck and
> does NOT need an awesome finish. I also don't mind buying new tools.
>
> So, do I spring
> for the 'pro' model HF?  I will most likely not be painting another
> car for a decade (maybe) so I don't think I need to get into real pro brands
> and pay top dollar. But I may paint here and there, NEVER for show, just
> for work stuff.
>
> Or, do I paint
> with the old style I already have?
>
> What is the advantages?
> Is there any learning curve?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Mule
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/stearman809 at gmail.com

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From jblair1948 at cox.net  Sun May  3 13:22:18 2020
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Sun, 03 May 2020 15:22:18 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Paint sprayers
In-Reply-To: <OFE5CAD8D7.AC486773-ON8525855D.005C1ADA-8525855D.005CDB47@
 mail.megageek.com>
References: <OFE5CAD8D7.AC486773-ON8525855D.005C1ADA-8525855D.005CDB47@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20200503151009.04add690@cox.net>

At 12:54 PM 5/3/2020, eric--- via Shop-talk wrote:

 >Ok, so "Sandford" by big work truck is currently undergoing some major body
 >work and will be getting new paint.  Both myself and my buddy 
haven't painted a
 >car since the late 80's.

Eric,

Things have changed a lot since the 80s.  Back then many people were 
still paiinting
with lacquer or enamel single stage (no clear coat).  Now most people 
are shoting 2
stage, base coat, clear coat.

I've use the harbor freight HVLP guns paint a couple of cars in the 
90s and 2000s.  They
worked well.  That being said, a good HVLP system will have an air 
source and a heater/dryer in it and are quite expensive.

But what I haven't seen anyone address nor you really say what type 
paint you were going to use.  If you are using any of the epoxy or 
polyester paints, BE VERY CAREFUL!!!
The paints have polyisocyanurates to help the paint harden.  From 
what I've been told
there are a couple of problems with this:

1. The polyisocyanurates can be absorbed through your skin, and is 
cumulative.  Your
body can't flush these out.  So be sure to wear gloves when mixing 
and handling the
paint.

2. Be sure to wear a good mask.  You are supposed to wear a positive 
pressure mask, that has it's own air supply and is pressurized, like 
a CPAP machine, so that you don't get
any of the fume into your lungs.

3. Back in the 90s when my boys were in Scouting, I was talking to the young
scoutmaster, and the subject of painting car/trucks came up.  He told 
me a story that
about one of his buddies was painting a truck and wasn't wearing a 
good mask as they
were painting outside.  Well he went to bed that night and the paint 
did its job, it
hardened.  The boy didn't wake up, his lungs solidified.

The moral of the store is:  BE VERY CAREFUL AROUND THE NEWER PAINTS!

John


John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/morgan
Bricklin:     www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
      In God We Trust
      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction




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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Sun May  3 13:27:37 2020
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com)
Date: Sun, 03 May 2020 12:27:37 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Paint sprayers
In-Reply-To: <OFE5CAD8D7.AC486773-ON8525855D.005C1ADA-8525855D.005CDB47@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OFE5CAD8D7.AC486773-ON8525855D.005C1ADA-8525855D.005CDB47@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <f26uaf5mo8f7u4aldi6fp96ps6vlvo4jan@4ax.com>

If you haven't bought automotive paint in the last decade or two
you're in for a shock.  They're going to make the price of a new hvlp
gun look reasonable, especially if it will help you save a significant
proportion of the paint cost.

If you care about rust resistance you are going to want a layer of
epoxy primer under the top coats.  Top coat will probably be a single
stage acrylic enamel because you don't want to be working with
hardened urethane paints that require an air supply (and hood) for you
as well as one for the gun.  A good respirator will keep you alive
while spraying epoxy and the enamel.  It won't protect your lungs from
cyanoacrylates.

Have fun painting.

-Roland

On Sun, 3 May 2020 12:54:12 -0400, you wrote:

>Ok, so "Sandford" by big work truck is currently undergoing some major 
>body work and will be getting new paint.  Both myself and my buddy haven't 
>painted a car since the late 80's.
>
>I see there are many different type of sprayers out there for automotive 
>finishes.
>There are the traditional sprayers with the can under the gun (and what I 
>already have and used in the 80s.)
>Then there are HVLP sprayers with the cups on top.
>I also noticed these types seem to be the new norm...
>https://www.harborfreight.com/64-oz-professional-hvlp-air-spray-gun-kit-62895.html 
>
>
>So, here are my requirements.  I am painting this truck, which is a work 
>truck and does NOT need an awesome finish. I also don't mind buying new 
>tools.
>
>So, do I spring for the 'pro' model HF?  I will most likely not be 
>painting another car for a decade (maybe) so I don't think I need to get 
>into real pro brands and pay top dollar. But I may paint here and there, 
>NEVER for show, just for work stuff.
>
>Or, do I paint with the old style I already have?
>
>What is the advantages?  Is there any learning curve?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Mule
>

-- 
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From fishplate at gmail.com  Sun May  3 14:47:59 2020
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 16:47:59 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Paint sprayers
In-Reply-To: <f26uaf5mo8f7u4aldi6fp96ps6vlvo4jan@4ax.com>
References: <OFE5CAD8D7.AC486773-ON8525855D.005C1ADA-8525855D.005CDB47@mail.megageek.com>
 <f26uaf5mo8f7u4aldi6fp96ps6vlvo4jan@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CNZPeUWovehSzdASbpaMJQtrN10a1+Ca9aD28tMKxwOVQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, May 3, 2020 at 3:28 PM sentenac.rw--- via Shop-talk <
shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:

> If you haven't bought automotive paint in the last decade or two
> you're in for a shock.  They're going to make the price of a new hvlp
> gun look reasonable, especially if it will help you save a significant
> proportion of the paint cost.


Let's not lose sight of the goal:

> I am painting this truck, which is a work truck and does NOT need an
awesome finish.

A gallon of Rust-Oleum Allis-Chalmers orange is $40 at Home Depot.
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From fishplate at gmail.com  Sun May  3 15:13:23 2020
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 17:13:23 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Paint sprayers
In-Reply-To: <4vbuafhnhvi3rnnubrspenunj469lui12g@4ax.com>
References: <OFE5CAD8D7.AC486773-ON8525855D.005C1ADA-8525855D.005CDB47@mail.megageek.com>
 <f26uaf5mo8f7u4aldi6fp96ps6vlvo4jan@4ax.com>
 <CAO8Q7CNZPeUWovehSzdASbpaMJQtrN10a1+Ca9aD28tMKxwOVQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <4vbuafhnhvi3rnnubrspenunj469lui12g@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CP6GnOHiqho0=8MaKQKdy0ggJHiK-=CEoQxVB5CZj5mag@mail.gmail.com>

The $50 Corvair paint job:  Rustoleum and a roller

http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html


On Sun, May 3, 2020 at 4:57 PM <sentenac.rw at gmail.com> wrote:

> Have you tried a roller?  I painted a pickup with a brush but a roller
> would have been smoother.  And faster.
>
> On Sun, 3 May 2020 16:47:59 -0400, you wrote:
>
> >On Sun, May 3, 2020 at 3:28 PM sentenac.rw--- via Shop-talk <
> >shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
> >
> >> If you haven't bought automotive paint in the last decade or two
> >> you're in for a shock.  They're going to make the price of a new hvlp
> >> gun look reasonable, especially if it will help you save a significant
> >> proportion of the paint cost.
> >
> >
> >Let's not lose sight of the goal:
> >
> >> I am painting this truck, which is a work truck and does NOT need an
> >awesome finish.
> >
> >A gallon of Rust-Oleum Allis-Chalmers orange is $40 at Home Depot.
>
> --
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
>
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From eric at megageek.com  Wed May  6 13:13:51 2020
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2020 15:13:51 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Need help locating part- grinder
Message-ID: <OF5014DE3A.32840108-ON85258560.0068FB39-85258560.0069A4A1@mail.megageek.com>

Hello all,

Not sure why this is a problem, but I have this grinder...

https://www.intlairtool.com/ingersoll-rand-77h120h84-extended-straight-grinder-12-000-rpm-1-2-thread/ 


And no, I didn't pay $1200 for it (I paid $35)

It is AWESOME and has a great grinding wheel on it.  I need to get a 
replacement wheel, but I can't find anything like it.

The wheel I have looks like 5 separate wheels glued together on a single 
homemade spindle.  But I know they must sell replacement wheel.

All the documentation just states to use "Type 1" wheels.

wheel is 4"X1" thick and 1/2" arbor.

Can someone help me find this?

I've been calling companies that sell the grinder and if they do answer 
the phone, it's a person that has no idea where to get them.  No site I 
can mentions replacement wheel.

Thanks in advance!


"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?
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From dhlocker at comcast.net  Wed May  6 14:55:20 2020
From: dhlocker at comcast.net (Donald H Locker)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2020 16:55:20 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Need help locating part- grinder
In-Reply-To: <OF5014DE3A.32840108-ON85258560.0068FB39-85258560.0069A4A1@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF5014DE3A.32840108-ON85258560.0068FB39-85258560.0069A4A1@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <f1fec054-77f3-e2dd-79fc-700ebc64e0a0@comcast.net>

Maybe like
https://www.weilerabrasives.com/product/3-x-1-4-tiger-ao-type-1-snagging-wheel-a24t-1-4-a-h-57069

or
https://www.grainger.com/category/abrasives/cut-off-and-grinding-wheels?attrs=Abrasive+Wheel+Type%7CType+1&filters=attrs

HTH,
Donald.
--
*Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
() no proprietary attachments; no html mail
/\ <https://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml>

On 2020-05-06 3:13 p.m., eric--- via Shop-talk wrote:
> Hello all,
> 
> Not sure why this is a problem, but I have this grinder...
> 
> _https://www.intlairtool.com/ingersoll-rand-77h120h84-extended-straight-grinder-12-000-rpm-1-2-thread/_
> 
> And no, I didn't pay $1200 for it (I paid $35)
> 
> It is AWESOME and has a great grinding wheel on it. ?I need to get a
> replacement wheel, but I can't find anything like it.
> 
> The wheel I have looks like 5 separate wheels glued together on a single
> homemade spindle. ?But I know they must sell replacement wheel.
> 
> All the documentation just states to use "Type 1" wheels.
> 
> wheel is 4"X1" thick and 1/2" arbor.
> 
> Can someone help me find this?
> 
> I've been calling companies that sell the grinder and if they do answer
> the phone, it's a person that has no idea where to get them. ?No site I
> can mentions replacement wheel.
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> 
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a
> rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your
> territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt?
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dhlocker at comcast.net
> 

From eric at megageek.com  Thu May  7 09:19:54 2020
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 11:19:54 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Thanks and new question about welding helmet.
Message-ID: <OF2EC86EAD.82D405CF-ON85258561.0053937D-85258561.00543886@mail.megageek.com>

First, I want to thank Donald for helping me find those wheels.  It seems 
that only Norton makes them and they are only available as a 5ct pack for 
>$100.  ( I only found them for sale in two places.)  I did order a set 
and they will be here tomorrow.

Now I do have another question.
My auto darkening helmet has been acting weird.  It darkens fine, but 
takes a long time to lighten.  I put new batteries in it and tried the 
'delay' setting with no luck.  It's a pain as I'm doing lots of tack welds 
and I have to wait to see where I'm doing the next one each time.

One note, I notice that if I look at a normal ceiling light, it lightens 
immediately.

Any ideas what can be causing this or how to fix it?  It's a Hobart, so 
it's not a cheapie.

Thanks.


"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?
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From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com  Thu May  7 10:41:07 2020
From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott Hall)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 12:41:07 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Thanks and new question about welding helmet.
In-Reply-To: <OF2EC86EAD.82D405CF-ON85258561.0053937D-85258561.00543886@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF2EC86EAD.82D405CF-ON85258561.0053937D-85258561.00543886@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <CAK73_u48A6DKmSjTEw2FygC5uywLtQiXZTDTMsTxg6_eM5je7A@mail.gmail.com>

Eric,

I assume it's the sensor on the helmet, or the internal wiring.

My main thought about those (helmets) is that I don't like to screw around
with them--that's your eyesight.  Either send it to Hobart for repair, or
replace it would be my vote.

Scott

On Thu, May 7, 2020, 11:27 AM eric--- via Shop-talk <
shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:

> First, I want to thank Donald for helping me find those wheels.  It seems
> that only Norton makes them and they are only available as a 5ct pack for
> >$100.  ( I only found them for sale in two places.)  I did order a set and
> they will be here tomorrow.
>
> Now I do have another question.
> My auto darkening helmet has been acting weird.  It darkens fine, but
> takes a long time to lighten.  I put new batteries in it and tried the
> 'delay' setting with no luck.  It's a pain as I'm doing lots of tack welds
> and I have to wait to see where I'm doing the next one each time.
>
> One note, I notice that if I look at a normal ceiling light, it lightens
> immediately.
>
> Any ideas what can be causing this or how to fix it?  It's a Hobart, so
> it's not a cheapie.
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/scott.hall.personal at gmail.com
>
>
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From mark at bradakis.com  Thu May  7 12:28:39 2020
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 12:28:39 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Backyard rocket hot cookers
Message-ID: <d35b4cf5-e5d4-8395-b9f3-68d2cf6b6bc8@bradakis.com>

Okay, so I did some blackened catfish for dinner this morning ( I work 
graveyard shift ) and really filled the house with smoke.? If you follow 
me on Facebook you should have an idea about my cooking addiction.

Maybe I should get some sort of turkey deep fryer, 37 bazillion BTU 
propane burner stand so I can do some seriously hot stuff without making 
the house uninhabitable.? Any suggestions?? I'd like to do stuff on a 
cast iron grill plate, adapt it to a serious wok burner* and such, doubt 
I will ever deep fry a turkey.

Any suggestions?? Propane cylinders?? Run a natural gas line from the 
house to the back yard?

mjb.

*:? This vid shows what sort of flame I'm looking for. 
https://www.foodbeast.com/news/season-wok/



From patintexas at icloud.com  Thu May  7 12:35:42 2020
From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 13:35:42 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Backyard rocket hot cookers
In-Reply-To: <d35b4cf5-e5d4-8395-b9f3-68d2cf6b6bc8@bradakis.com>
References: <d35b4cf5-e5d4-8395-b9f3-68d2cf6b6bc8@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <DF77CBC0-396B-4B46-A81D-0D240DDED411@icloud.com>

I?d go for the natural gas line if you plan on going a bunch of cooking. Nothing worse than having a propane tank run out in the middle of cooking. Propane also costs more than natural gas - $/BTU wise. 

Peace 
Pat 

Pat Horne 
We support Habitat for Humanity


> On May 7, 2020, at 1:30 PM, Mark J Bradakis via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 

?Okay, so I did some blackened catfish for dinner this morning ( I work graveyard shift ) and really filled the house with smoke.  If you follow me on Facebook you should have an idea about my cooking addiction.

Maybe I should get some sort of turkey deep fryer, 37 bazillion BTU propane burner stand so I can do some seriously hot stuff without making the house uninhabitable.  Any suggestions?  I'd like to do stuff on a cast iron grill plate, adapt it to a serious wok burner* and such, doubt I will ever deep fry a turkey.

Any suggestions?  Propane cylinders?  Run a natural gas line from the house to the back yard?

mjb.

*:  This vid shows what sort of flame I'm looking for. https://www.foodbeast.com/news/season-wok/


_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com


From jamesf at groupwbench.org  Thu May  7 13:19:12 2020
From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 15:19:12 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Backyard rocket hot cookers
In-Reply-To: <d35b4cf5-e5d4-8395-b9f3-68d2cf6b6bc8@bradakis.com>
References: <d35b4cf5-e5d4-8395-b9f3-68d2cf6b6bc8@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <D066D164-5C0E-4CBC-B876-AA856535D1BE@groupwbench.org>

A friend who has done this uses a Jet Boil. I think he uses propane out of necessity, but if you have NG and don't care that the grill isn't portable, NG is the way to go.

jim

> On May 7, 2020, at 2:28 PM, Mark J Bradakis via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Okay, so I did some blackened catfish for dinner this morning ( I work graveyard shift ) and really filled the house with smoke.  If you follow me on Facebook you should have an idea about my cooking addiction.
> 
> Maybe I should get some sort of turkey deep fryer, 37 bazillion BTU propane burner stand so I can do some seriously hot stuff without making the house uninhabitable.  Any suggestions?  I'd like to do stuff on a cast iron grill plate, adapt it to a serious wok burner* and such, doubt I will ever deep fry a turkey.
> 
> Any suggestions?  Propane cylinders?  Run a natural gas line from the house to the back yard?
> 
> mjb.
> 
> *:  This vid shows what sort of flame I'm looking for. https://www.foodbeast.com/news/season-wok/
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org
> 


From peterwmurray at gmail.com  Thu May  7 13:29:29 2020
From: peterwmurray at gmail.com (Peter Murray)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 15:29:29 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Backyard rocket hot cookers
In-Reply-To: <D066D164-5C0E-4CBC-B876-AA856535D1BE@groupwbench.org>
References: <d35b4cf5-e5d4-8395-b9f3-68d2cf6b6bc8@bradakis.com>
 <D066D164-5C0E-4CBC-B876-AA856535D1BE@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <CAJ8HLP_u_3RY=f9M1p2uqjMd2HVY6+yHKh2OUR03f7VYqsF+hg@mail.gmail.com>

Keep in mind that if you want serious heat, you'll want to use charcoal.
I've enjoyed using cast iron on a dedicated "clean" grate (i.e. I don't
cook directly on that grate).

Thermite is good for even more heat, but I don't think you treat your pans
as disposable, so...

-Peter

On Thu, May 7, 2020 at 3:21 PM Jim Franklin via Shop-talk <
shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:

> A friend who has done this uses a Jet Boil. I think he uses propane out of
> necessity, but if you have NG and don't care that the grill isn't portable,
> NG is the way to go.
>
> jim
>
> > On May 7, 2020, at 2:28 PM, Mark J Bradakis via Shop-talk <
> shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
> >
> > Okay, so I did some blackened catfish for dinner this morning ( I work
> graveyard shift ) and really filled the house with smoke.  If you follow me
> on Facebook you should have an idea about my cooking addiction.
> >
> > Maybe I should get some sort of turkey deep fryer, 37 bazillion BTU
> propane burner stand so I can do some seriously hot stuff without making
> the house uninhabitable.  Any suggestions?  I'd like to do stuff on a cast
> iron grill plate, adapt it to a serious wok burner* and such, doubt I will
> ever deep fry a turkey.
> >
> > Any suggestions?  Propane cylinders?  Run a natural gas line from the
> house to the back yard?
> >
> > mjb.
> >
> > *:  This vid shows what sort of flame I'm looking for.
> https://www.foodbeast.com/news/season-wok/
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray at gmail.com
>
>
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From jblair1948 at cox.net  Thu May  7 13:56:28 2020
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Thu, 07 May 2020 15:56:28 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Thanks and new question about welding helmet.
In-Reply-To: <CAK73_u48A6DKmSjTEw2FygC5uywLtQiXZTDTMsTxg6_eM5je7A@mail.g
 mail.com>
References: <OF2EC86EAD.82D405CF-ON85258561.0053937D-85258561.00543886@mail.megageek.com>
 <CAK73_u48A6DKmSjTEw2FygC5uywLtQiXZTDTMsTxg6_eM5je7A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20200507155056.04cf06e0@cox.net>

At 12:41 PM 5/7/2020, Eric via Shop-talk wrote:

 >My auto darkening helmet has been acting weird. It darkens fine, but takes
 >a long time to lighten. I put new batteries in it and tried the 
'delay' setting
 >with no luck. It's a pain as I'm doing lots of tack welds and I have to wait
 >to see where I'm doing the next one each time.

Eric,

I don't know that I'd worry about it.  HarborFreight has the auto 
darkening helmets
starting at about $50.  I bought an auto darkening insert, for my 
standard helmet,
when they first came out say about 20 yrs ago.  I also bought a Harbor Freight
auto darkening helmet for my son to use.  I have no complaints about the HF
helmet and the spec.s are as good as the high end insert I bought for 
well over
2x the price and 15 yrs before.

John


John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/morgan
Bricklin:     www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
      In God We Trust
      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction




-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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From eric at megageek.com  Thu May  7 17:10:46 2020
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 19:10:46 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Backyard rocket hot cookers
In-Reply-To: <d35b4cf5-e5d4-8395-b9f3-68d2cf6b6bc8@bradakis.com>
References: <d35b4cf5-e5d4-8395-b9f3-68d2cf6b6bc8@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <OFF1D38B54.28832E76-ON85258561.007F19A2-85258561.007F5495@mail.megageek.com>

Mjb asks...

>Any suggestions?  Propane cylinders?  Run a natural gas line from the 
>house to the back yard?

What's wrong with a rosebud tip on a oxy acetylene torch?  8>)  (oB moto 
content)

Sorry, I'm a 49 year old bachelor, I only make excellent reservations!




"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?
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From markmiller at threeboysfarm.com  Thu May  7 18:28:59 2020
From: markmiller at threeboysfarm.com (Mark Miller)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 17:28:59 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop-talk Digest, Vol 14, Issue 109
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1588874402.14464.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1588874402.14464.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <699a38e5-e3e4-9152-f095-6b20081a907f@threeboysfarm.com>

I looked up wheels before I saw you were given some sources. But: be 
careful out there.? The 4" D Norton wheels are rated at 6000 and 8000RPM 
while the grinder (which is the beefiest damn one I've ever seen) says 
it is 12000.? There is a 3" at just under 11K RPM max:
https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tnpla/96421169?cid=ppc-google-New+-+Abrasives+-+PLA_sU4KsrRcM___164124448214_c_S&mkwid=sU4KsrRcM%7cdc&pcrid=164124448214&rd=k&product_id=96421169&gclid=CjwKCAjw4871BRAjEiwAbxXi2y5wpKo5U77Gz6LcHA4R_IVmovBX7OXfovkFhXiyfsCBRjiKV2x4zhoCyjsQAvD_BwE#navid=12100093+4288239622+4288236838+4288243420+4288243421 


Oh, and type 1 just means the wheel is the same thickness throughout: no 
depressed or offset center, etc.

Regards,

Mark Miller   707-490-5834
markmiller at threeboysfarm.com


> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 6 May 2020 15:13:51 -0400
> From: eric at megageek.com
> To: Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Need help locating part- grinder
> Message-ID:
> 	<OF5014DE3A.32840108-ON85258560.0068FB39-85258560.0069A4A1 at mail.megageek.com>
> 	
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Hello all,
>
> Not sure why this is a problem, but I have this grinder...
>
> https://www.intlairtool.com/ingersoll-rand-77h120h84-extended-straight-grinder-12-000-rpm-1-2-thread/
>
>
> And no, I didn't pay $1200 for it (I paid $35)
>
> It is AWESOME and has a great grinding wheel on it.  I need to get a
> replacement wheel, but I can't find anything like it.
>
> The wheel I have looks like 5 separate wheels glued together on a single
> homemade spindle.  But I know they must sell replacement wheel.
>
> All the documentation just states to use "Type 1" wheels.
>
> wheel is 4"X1" thick and 1/2" arbor.
>
> Can someone help me find this?
>
> I've been calling companies that sell the grinder and if they do answer
> the phone, it's a person that has no idea where to get them.  No site I
> can mentions replacement wheel.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt?
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>
>

From eric at megageek.com  Fri May  8 06:25:22 2020
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2020 08:25:22 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Quick welding question- It's ok to use an 100% argon
 tank on it's side, correct?
Message-ID: <OF77683C0A.19283559-ON85258562.00442490-85258562.00443DC7@mail.megageek.com>

I just wanted to double check that  it's ok to use an 100% argon tank on 
it's side.  Do I have that right?

Thanks


"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?
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From jdinnis at gmail.com  Fri May  8 06:42:35 2020
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2020 07:42:35 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Quick welding question- It's ok to use an 100%
 argon tank on it's side, correct?
In-Reply-To: <OF77683C0A.19283559-ON85258562.00442490-85258562.00443DC7@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF77683C0A.19283559-ON85258562.00442490-85258562.00443DC7@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <CANuE7YAO565eyjA-twiePvMS_mOHtyegsNNp99_nknmYbbYSyw@mail.gmail.com>

I have done this before without issue.  BUT if you lay a high pressure
bottle down without a transport cap on it, you need a safety cage to
protect the valve.  Mythbusters demonstrated what happened if the valve
gets knocked off when one of these is in a horizontal position, so probably
a good idea to take precautions.  Most of the ones I have seen are just an
oversized transport cap with open sides.  The one I really liked was the
version they use on nitrogen bottles at race tracks.  It has an oversized
square cage that attaches to the bottle.  This not only protects the valve,
it also prevents the bottle from rolling around when it is on it's side.

On Fri, May 8, 2020 at 7:27 AM eric--- via Shop-talk <
shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I just wanted to double check that  it's ok to use an 100% argon tank on
> it's side.  Do I have that right?
>
> Thanks
>
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================
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From mark at bradakis.com  Fri May  8 07:20:13 2020
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2020 07:20:13 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Backyard rocket hot cookers
In-Reply-To: <d35b4cf5-e5d4-8395-b9f3-68d2cf6b6bc8@bradakis.com>
References: <d35b4cf5-e5d4-8395-b9f3-68d2cf6b6bc8@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <2925a27a-85a3-52c3-21ca-985cc935794c@bradakis.com>

Fast forward to about 3:25.? Maybe I don't really need quite that much 
firepower, but you get the idea.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UGXGJD2xTzQ&t=219s


mjb.



From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri May  8 07:36:12 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2020 06:36:12 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Quick welding question- It's ok to use an 100%
 argon tank on it's side, correct?
In-Reply-To: <OF77683C0A.19283559-ON85258562.00442490-85258562.00443DC7@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF77683C0A.19283559-ON85258562.00442490-85258562.00443DC7@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <d0cfa758-d9a6-1ecf-d6fa-6bf0f380b8e7@comcast.net>

 From the textbook used in my JC welding class, 'Modern Welding,' 11th 
Edition:

"Gas cylinders should always be stored and used in an upright position."

No explanation given, but it was in safety-related text printed in red.? 
I wouldn't be comfortable using the bottle laying flat; if nothing else 
the pressure and flow gauges--esp. the 'bubble' type flowmeter--may have 
issues.

Bob

On 5/8/2020 5:25 AM, eric--- via Shop-talk wrote:
> I just wanted to double check that ?it's ok to use an 100% argon tank 
> on it's side. ?Do I have that right?
>
> Thanks
>
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a 
> rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your 
> territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt?
>

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From arvidj999 at gmail.com  Fri May  8 08:50:15 2020
From: arvidj999 at gmail.com (Arvid)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2020 09:50:15 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Quick welding question- It's ok to use an 100%
 argon tank on it's side, correct?
In-Reply-To: <d0cfa758-d9a6-1ecf-d6fa-6bf0f380b8e7@comcast.net>
References: <OF77683C0A.19283559-ON85258562.00442490-85258562.00443DC7@mail.megageek.com>
 <d0cfa758-d9a6-1ecf-d6fa-6bf0f380b8e7@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <5674c92a-af2e-057d-49b6-94e74dd075e5@gmail.com>

My understanding of the "vertical position" was based on acetylene tanks. Most other tanks are 100% gas but IIRC acetylene is partially a liquid and therefore laying it on it's side would not provide "just the gas" that would be at the top of a vertical tank to come out.

*Acetylene*gas is mixed in*liquid*acetone for safe storage and usage. Acetone in*acetylene cylinders*helps stabilize the gas making it non-reactive within the*cylinder*. In this process,*acetylene*is dissolved in*liquid*acetone under high pressure. The*cylinder*is then filled with porous material like firebrick.

Arvid

On 5/8/20 8:36 AM, Bob Spidell via Shop-talk wrote:
> From the textbook used in my JC welding class, 'Modern Welding,' 11th Edition:
>
> "Gas cylinders should always be stored and used in an upright position."
>
> No explanation given, but it was in safety-related text printed in red.? I wouldn't be comfortable using the bottle laying flat; if nothing else the pressure and flow gauges--esp. the 'bubble' type flowmeter--may have issues.
>
> Bob
>
> On 5/8/2020 5:25 AM, eric--- via Shop-talk wrote:
>> I just wanted to double check that ?it's ok to use an 100% argon tank on it's side. ?Do I have that right?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>>
>> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson
>> -Who is John Galt?
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/arvidj999 at gmail.com
>
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From fishplate at gmail.com  Fri May  8 09:17:16 2020
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2020 11:17:16 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Backyard rocket hot cookers
In-Reply-To: <CAJ8HLP_u_3RY=f9M1p2uqjMd2HVY6+yHKh2OUR03f7VYqsF+hg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <d35b4cf5-e5d4-8395-b9f3-68d2cf6b6bc8@bradakis.com>
 <D066D164-5C0E-4CBC-B876-AA856535D1BE@groupwbench.org>
 <CAJ8HLP_u_3RY=f9M1p2uqjMd2HVY6+yHKh2OUR03f7VYqsF+hg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CNu6aZ7Ua6B21bbkm3o_fZTJ6d=vabea8ND0TWiuuZ1Pw@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, May 7, 2020 at 3:32 PM Peter Murray via Shop-talk <
shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Keep in mind that if you want serious heat, you'll want to use charcoal.
>

I can use my wok over charcoal?  I'd like to hear more about that.

At the risk of thread drift, what's a good charcoal?  Royal Oak is hard to
light, but burns longer.  Kingsford lights easy, but burns quick - almost
too quick to use.

And most of the true lump charcoal I've tried turns out to be a big bag of
charred stumps and dust.
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From fishplate at gmail.com  Fri May  8 09:19:57 2020
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2020 11:19:57 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Quick welding question- It's ok to use an 100%
 argon tank on it's side, correct?
In-Reply-To: <5674c92a-af2e-057d-49b6-94e74dd075e5@gmail.com>
References: <OF77683C0A.19283559-ON85258562.00442490-85258562.00443DC7@mail.megageek.com>
 <d0cfa758-d9a6-1ecf-d6fa-6bf0f380b8e7@comcast.net>
 <5674c92a-af2e-057d-49b6-94e74dd075e5@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CPoH4+To0zY7Bd-FV6Q0fyDEhaGMTm4_gYwes_H3skmQA@mail.gmail.com>

On Fri, May 8, 2020 at 10:55 AM Arvid via Shop-talk <
shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:

> *Acetylene* gas is mixed in *liquid* acetone for safe storage and usage.
> Acetone in *acetylene cylinders* helps stabilize the gas making it
> non-reactive within the *cylinder*. In this process, *acetylene* is
> dissolved in *liquid* acetone under high pressure. The *cylinder* is then
> filled with porous material like firebrick.
> <http://autox.team.net/archive>

As they say, "Nature is metal AF."   Who would rationally think that
dissolving something in acetone would make it less dangerous?
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From mark at bradakis.com  Fri May  8 09:59:03 2020
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2020 09:59:03 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Backyard rocket hot cookers
In-Reply-To: <CAO8Q7CNu6aZ7Ua6B21bbkm3o_fZTJ6d=vabea8ND0TWiuuZ1Pw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <d35b4cf5-e5d4-8395-b9f3-68d2cf6b6bc8@bradakis.com>
 <D066D164-5C0E-4CBC-B876-AA856535D1BE@groupwbench.org>
 <CAJ8HLP_u_3RY=f9M1p2uqjMd2HVY6+yHKh2OUR03f7VYqsF+hg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAO8Q7CNu6aZ7Ua6B21bbkm3o_fZTJ6d=vabea8ND0TWiuuZ1Pw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <56176931-df91-ff6b-21c6-fe616d28dec3@bradakis.com>

On 5/8/20 9:17 AM, Jeff Scarbrough via Shop-talk wrote:
>
>
> On Thu, May 7, 2020 at 3:32 PM Peter Murray via Shop-talk 
> <shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:shop-talk at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     Keep in mind that if you want serious heat, you'll want to use
>     charcoal.
>
>
> I can use my wok over charcoal?? I'd like to hear more about that.
>
> At the risk of thread drift, what's a good charcoal? Royal Oak is hard 
> to light, but burns longer.? Kingsford lights easy, but burns quick - 
> almost too quick to use.
>
> And most of the?true lump charcoal I've tried turns out to be a big 
> bag of charred stumps and dust.


Waaay back when charcoal was pretty much one of the only good heat 
sources around.? The ancient Chinese did not have natural gas or propane 
cylinders or any such modern conveniences available.? I don't think 
dried yak dung is readily available these days in the States.

When I was more active on some serious BBQ sites, there was a web site 
that did some serious charcoal reviews.? Maybe it will come to me, can't 
remember it.? Maybe it was The Naked Whiz I mention below.

Kingsford is like the one of the worst charcoals out there.? It has the 
highest percentage of non-combustible junk in it, but it has great 
marketing.? I'm trying to remember, but as I recall Royal Oak makes a 
special hardwood lump for the Big Green Egg folks, I think sold under 
the BGE label.? Been a while since I've seen it.? Cowboy "lump" you see 
at Home Depot is made from hardwood flooring scraps - you can see the 
tongue and groove in most pieces, kind of humorous.

Check out this site, it may prove useful.? Most of the brands I've never 
heard of or seen, mostly based in the Southeast and midwest US of A.? 
Salt Lake City isn't exactly BBQ Central for the planet.? But we do have 
a few most excellent pitmasters working in the valley, all is not lost.

http://www.nakedwhiz.com/lumprankpoll.htm

I usually buy lump charcoal from the Ace Hardware up the street. One 
interesting variety is Kamado Joe's XL BIG Lump - basically small tree 
stumps that take a while to catch, like fill a chimney with other stuff, 
then toss in a block of the XL and wait, but once going burn nice and 
clean for a long time.? Good for long smokes of butts, not good if you 
just want to whip out a couple of burgers.

With summer coming on fast and this staying at home stuff, this seems 
like a perfectly appropriate topic for this list.? Of course, those of 
you who never eat might not think so, sorry.

And I still want to fab up some whiz bang zillion BTU burner thing.? It 
might involve having to head down to O'Reilly's Auto Parts to pick up a 
#121G...

mjb.




From bborgstede at charter.net  Fri May  8 12:09:52 2020
From: bborgstede at charter.net (Brian Borgstede)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2020 13:09:52 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Backyard rocket hot cookers
In-Reply-To: <56176931-df91-ff6b-21c6-fe616d28dec3@bradakis.com>
References: <56176931-df91-ff6b-21c6-fe616d28dec3@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <3698A42A-085C-43E1-B46D-8BCEC1452B62@charter.net>

There are plenty of Coleman camping stoves out there.  The white gas keeps for years. The ?stovies? (Coleman stove enthusiasts) along with the lantern crowd can be found at the following link.  It?s fun! Poor gas into a small tank, pump the pressure up to about 25 psi and light. Leaks get exciting. For added fun, do it by the light of a Coleman lantern with radioactive mantles?

https://www.colemancollectorsforum.com/

Sent from my iPad

> On May 8, 2020, at 10:59 AM, Mark J Bradakis via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?On 5/8/20 9:17 AM, Jeff Scarbrough via Shop-talk wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> On Thu, May 7, 2020 at 3:32 PM Peter Murray via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:shop-talk at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>> 
>>    Keep in mind that if you want serious heat, you'll want to use
>>    charcoal.
>> 
>> 
>> I can use my wok over charcoal?  I'd like to hear more about that.
>> 
>> At the risk of thread drift, what's a good charcoal? Royal Oak is hard to light, but burns longer.  Kingsford lights easy, but burns quick - almost too quick to use.
>> 
>> And most of the true lump charcoal I've tried turns out to be a big bag of charred stumps and dust.
> 
> 
> Waaay back when charcoal was pretty much one of the only good heat sources around.  The ancient Chinese did not have natural gas or propane cylinders or any such modern conveniences available.  I don't think dried yak dung is readily available these days in the States.
> 
> When I was more active on some serious BBQ sites, there was a web site that did some serious charcoal reviews.  Maybe it will come to me, can't remember it.  Maybe it was The Naked Whiz I mention below.
> 
> Kingsford is like the one of the worst charcoals out there.  It has the highest percentage of non-combustible junk in it, but it has great marketing.  I'm trying to remember, but as I recall Royal Oak makes a special hardwood lump for the Big Green Egg folks, I think sold under the BGE label.  Been a while since I've seen it.  Cowboy "lump" you see at Home Depot is made from hardwood flooring scraps - you can see the tongue and groove in most pieces, kind of humorous.
> 
> Check out this site, it may prove useful.  Most of the brands I've never heard of or seen, mostly based in the Southeast and midwest US of A.  Salt Lake City isn't exactly BBQ Central for the planet.  But we do have a few most excellent pitmasters working in the valley, all is not lost.
> 
> http://www.nakedwhiz.com/lumprankpoll.htm
> 
> I usually buy lump charcoal from the Ace Hardware up the street. One interesting variety is Kamado Joe's XL BIG Lump - basically small tree stumps that take a while to catch, like fill a chimney with other stuff, then toss in a block of the XL and wait, but once going burn nice and clean for a long time.  Good for long smokes of butts, not good if you just want to whip out a couple of burgers.
> 
> With summer coming on fast and this staying at home stuff, this seems like a perfectly appropriate topic for this list.  Of course, those of you who never eat might not think so, sorry.
> 
> And I still want to fab up some whiz bang zillion BTU burner thing.  It might involve having to head down to O'Reilly's Auto Parts to pick up a #121G...
> 
> mjb.
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bborgstede at charter.net
> 
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From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Fri May  8 16:31:37 2020
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2020 17:31:37 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Quick welding question- It's ok to use an 100%
 argon tank on it's side, correct?
In-Reply-To: <CAO8Q7CPoH4+To0zY7Bd-FV6Q0fyDEhaGMTm4_gYwes_H3skmQA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <OF77683C0A.19283559-ON85258562.00442490-85258562.00443DC7@mail.megageek.com>
 <d0cfa758-d9a6-1ecf-d6fa-6bf0f380b8e7@comcast.net>
 <5674c92a-af2e-057d-49b6-94e74dd075e5@gmail.com>
 <CAO8Q7CPoH4+To0zY7Bd-FV6Q0fyDEhaGMTm4_gYwes_H3skmQA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <899BFB39-7D20-461E-A195-83BEB52C7657@gmail.com>



> On May 8, 2020, at 10:19, Jeff Scarbrough via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
>> On Fri, May 8, 2020 at 10:55 AM Arvid via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> Acetylene gas is mixed in liquid acetone for safe storage and usage. Acetone in acetylene cylinders helps stabilize the gas making it non-reactive within the cylinder. In this process, acetylene is dissolved in liquid acetone under high pressure. The cylinder is then filled with porous material like firebrick.
>> 
> As they say, "Nature is metal AF."   Who would rationally think that dissolving something in acetone would make it less dangerous?

Since acetylene explodes at about 15 psi, dissolving it inacetone is clearly a great idea. 
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From markmiller at threeboysfarm.com  Fri May  8 16:45:20 2020
From: markmiller at threeboysfarm.com (Mark Miller)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2020 15:45:20 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Charcoal. was: who knows......
In-Reply-To: <mailman.10.1588960802.13522.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.10.1588960802.13522.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <0cca83e1-456e-ae33-f6b2-aef7cf464f30@threeboysfarm.com>

I'm a big fan of Lazzari mesquite lump charcoal.? Might be only local 
(SF area), though.
http://www.lazzari.com/

Regards,

Mark Miller   707-490-5834
markmiller at threeboysfarm.com



From mark at bradakis.com  Fri May  8 19:00:33 2020
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2020 19:00:33 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Charcoal. was: who knows......
In-Reply-To: <0cca83e1-456e-ae33-f6b2-aef7cf464f30@threeboysfarm.com>
References: <mailman.10.1588960802.13522.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
 <0cca83e1-456e-ae33-f6b2-aef7cf464f30@threeboysfarm.com>
Message-ID: <221185dc-a000-79bb-2162-9b21c28d3979@bradakis.com>

On 5/8/20 4:45 PM, Mark Miller via Shop-talk wrote:
> I'm a big fan of Lazzari mesquite lump charcoal.? Might be only local 
> (SF area), though.
> http://www.lazzari.com/


A big ol' ribeye grilled over rocket hot mesquite is quite a tasty 
treat.? But mesquite can be tricky, and give some unpleasant flavors if 
over used.? I'll have to check out these guys, maybe it's available in Utah.

mjb.



From dirtbeard at gmail.com  Thu May  7 13:40:41 2020
From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 12:40:41 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Backyard rocket hot cookers
In-Reply-To: <DF77CBC0-396B-4B46-A81D-0D240DDED411@icloud.com>
References: <d35b4cf5-e5d4-8395-b9f3-68d2cf6b6bc8@bradakis.com>
 <DF77CBC0-396B-4B46-A81D-0D240DDED411@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <CAG1pxga4RX3=O3KB-AFZpTghY_yFkoMe8vgcLp+5yr4ZfONkTQ@mail.gmail.com>

I have been doing deep fried turkeys and large fish frying for 25 years and
the basic turkey fryer and a couple tanks of propane is the solution.
Propane is hotter than natural gas, and one tank will last a very long
time, it is portable, etc. I have outdoor natural gas and still choose to
use propane for fish frying and turkey frying.

I have a 25 year-old Master Built that is 100% original, and would highly
recommend them.

But something like this is all you would need for large scale fish frying:

https://www.webstaurantstore.com/backyard-pro-10-qt-fish-fryer-cooker-55-000-btu/554BPFF19.html?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=GoogleShopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkYnhxb-i6QIVdx-tBh1tNgY-EAYYBSABEgImt_D_BwE


The long thermometer and the perforated frying insert pan with a long
handle are critical elements for happy frying.

On Thu, May 7, 2020 at 11:35 AM Pat Horne via Shop-talk <
shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I?d go for the natural gas line if you plan on going a bunch of cooking.
> Nothing worse than having a propane tank run out in the middle of cooking.
> Propane also costs more than natural gas - $/BTU wise.
>
> Peace
> Pat
>
> Pat Horne
> We support Habitat for Humanity
>
>
> > On May 7, 2020, at 1:30 PM, Mark J Bradakis via Shop-talk <
> shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
> >
>
> ?Okay, so I did some blackened catfish for dinner this morning ( I work
> graveyard shift ) and really filled the house with smoke.  If you follow me
> on Facebook you should have an idea about my cooking addiction.
>
> Maybe I should get some sort of turkey deep fryer, 37 bazillion BTU
> propane burner stand so I can do some seriously hot stuff without making
> the house uninhabitable.  Any suggestions?  I'd like to do stuff on a cast
> iron grill plate, adapt it to a serious wok burner* and such, doubt I will
> ever deep fry a turkey.
>
> Any suggestions?  Propane cylinders?  Run a natural gas line from the
> house to the back yard?
>
> mjb.
>
> *:  This vid shows what sort of flame I'm looking for.
> https://www.foodbeast.com/news/season-wok/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com
>
>
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From markmiller at threeboysfarm.com  Sat May  9 17:41:53 2020
From: markmiller at threeboysfarm.com (Mark Miller)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2020 16:41:53 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] High heat burner
In-Reply-To: <mailman.18513.1589045457.2964.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.18513.1589045457.2964.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <6a9d1184-5396-066c-7337-7f1ff121e924@threeboysfarm.com>

Looked at the source as Pat listed below and: they have a 210K BTU 
outdoor burner, just in case 55K is too wussy for you.? that is some 
serious energy.? And still well under a hundred bucks.

https://www.webstaurantstore.com/backyard-pro-outdoor-range-patio-stove-with-hose-guard-210-000-btu/554BPHP17.html

PS: if anyone knows what I am doing wrong that causes all these stupid? 
question marks to show up in posts I'd love to know. Thx!


Regards,

Mark Miller   707-490-5834
markmiller at threeboysfarm.com
no question marks were injured in the making of this post



On 5/9/2020 10:30 AM, shop-talk-request at autox.team.net wrote:
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 12:40:41 -0700
> From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard at gmail.com>
> To: Pat Horne <patintexas at icloud.com>
> Cc: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>,  "Shop-talk at autox.team.net"
> 	<Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Backyard rocket hot cookers
> Message-ID:
> 	<CAG1pxga4RX3=O3KB-AFZpTghY_yFkoMe8vgcLp+5yr4ZfONkTQ at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I have been doing deep fried turkeys and large fish frying for 25 years and
> the basic turkey fryer and a couple tanks of propane is the solution.
> Propane is hotter than natural gas, and one tank will last a very long
> time, it is portable, etc. I have outdoor natural gas and still choose to
> use propane for fish frying and turkey frying.
>
> I have a 25 year-old Master Built that is 100% original, and would highly
> recommend them.
>
> But something like this is all you would need for large scale fish frying:
>
> https://www.webstaurantstore.com/backyard-pro-10-qt-fish-fryer-cooker-55-000-btu/554BPFF19.html?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=GoogleShopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkYnhxb-i6QIVdx-tBh1tNgY-EAYYBSABEgImt_D_BwE
>
>

From eric at megageek.com  Sun May 10 04:53:52 2020
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 06:53:52 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Question about shop pants?
Message-ID: <OFFD0A2EAB.0A3531FB-ON85258564.003B36B1-85258564.003BDD7A@mail.megageek.com>

OK, I have to ask what most of you hard working shop guy wear for pants?

No, this isn't a dirty question.  It's just that I burn through shop pants 
fairly quickly.  They mostly rip in the crotch long before they are worn 
out completely.

I switched to Duluth fire hose pants and they seem to be a little better, 
but still not great, and I notice their "No Bull" guarantee has changed a 
lot and isn't so 'no bullish' anymore. 

I was wondering what other may have found.

Note, in the past I also purchased the 'pants by the pound' option.  These 
were cheap pants that were part of a uniform service company that can no 
longer be used by them.  They were cheap, but light duty only.

My Army pants work and last pretty well, but they aren't really good for 
welding and such.

Anyone know of any good alternatives?

Thanks


"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?
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From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com  Sun May 10 05:18:11 2020
From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott Hall)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 07:18:11 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Question about shop pants?
In-Reply-To: <OFFD0A2EAB.0A3531FB-ON85258564.003B36B1-85258564.003BDD7A@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OFFD0A2EAB.0A3531FB-ON85258564.003B36B1-85258564.003BDD7A@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <CAK73_u4J2QDTJLEyLZKM1Y2ocBB0FZH1n-VnmbHyj9bK74QVNQ@mail.gmail.com>

Eric,

I use a combination of Costco jeans (I think my average is $12/pair) and HF
coveralls. The coveralls were more expensive and less comfortable. The
jeans have an elastic component making them pretty nice to wear.

On Sun, May 10, 2020, 6:59 AM eric--- via Shop-talk <
shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:

> OK, I have to ask what most of you hard working shop guy wear for pants?
>
> No, this isn't a dirty question.  It's just that I burn through shop pants
> fairly quickly.  They mostly rip in the crotch long before they are worn
> out completely.
>
> I switched to Duluth fire hose pants and they seem to be a little better,
> but still not great, and I notice their "No Bull" guarantee has changed a
> lot and isn't so 'no bullish' anymore.
>
> I was wondering what other may have found.
>
> Note, in the past I also purchased the 'pants by the pound' option.  These
> were cheap pants that were part of a uniform service company that can no
> longer be used by them.  They were cheap, but light duty only.
>
> My Army pants work and last pretty well, but they aren't really good for
> welding and such.
>
> Anyone know of any good alternatives?
>
> Thanks
>
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/scott.hall.personal at gmail.com
>
>
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From neiljsherry at talktalk.net  Sun May 10 05:24:46 2020
From: neiljsherry at talktalk.net (Neil Sherry)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 12:24:46 +0100
Subject: [Shop-talk] Question about shop pants?
In-Reply-To: <CAK73_u4J2QDTJLEyLZKM1Y2ocBB0FZH1n-VnmbHyj9bK74QVNQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <OFFD0A2EAB.0A3531FB-ON85258564.003B36B1-85258564.003BDD7A@mail.megageek.com>
 <CAK73_u4J2QDTJLEyLZKM1Y2ocBB0FZH1n-VnmbHyj9bK74QVNQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <094401d626bd$9c6b23f0$d5416bd0$@talktalk.net>

I do have overalls (including some ?flameproof? ones from a (natural) gas company, which I save for welding jobs) but generally I just wear jeans. I don?t buy them specifically for this - they start as smart, then normal wear and gradually go to garage condition. Sometimes chop them down to shorts for the summer ? especially if the knees have gone.

Neil

 

I use a combination of Costco jeans (I think my average is $12/pair) and HF coveralls. The coveralls were more expensive and less comfortable. The jeans have an elastic component making them pretty nice to wear.  

 


Anyone know of any good alternatives? 

Thanks 




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From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Sun May 10 07:15:16 2020
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 08:15:16 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Question about shop pants?
In-Reply-To: <OFFD0A2EAB.0A3531FB-ON85258564.003B36B1-85258564.003BDD7A@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OFFD0A2EAB.0A3531FB-ON85258564.003B36B1-85258564.003BDD7A@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <B1DB0FB3-90BE-4748-AB6B-821797CC4789@gmail.com>



> On May 10, 2020, at 05:53, eric--- via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> OK, I have to ask what most of you hard working shop guy wear for pants? 
> 
> No, this isn't a dirty question.  It's just that I burn through shop pants fairly quickly.  They mostly rip in the crotch long before they are worn out completely.

I wear carhart b11 and b01 trousers. They are the same basic design, the b01 has a double front (and some are made in the USA).  They?re carpenter pants, hammer loop, ruler pocket, screwdriver pocket.   They are high waisted, so easy to move in. 
 Try a couple sizes, they don?t fit the same as jeans b



> 
> I switched to Duluth fire hose pants and they seem to be a little better, but still not great, and I notice their "No Bull" guarantee has changed a lot and isn't so 'no bullish' anymore.

They wouldn?t replace a shoulder bag I got as a gift, because I didn?t have a receipt.  The swivel for the shoulder strap used the paint to keep it from coming apart; when it wore through the bag took a spill down a flight of stairs.  Both swivels were the same, so I think it was just utterly crap. 
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From mark at bradakis.com  Sun May 10 07:24:31 2020
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 07:24:31 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] High heat burner
In-Reply-To: <6a9d1184-5396-066c-7337-7f1ff121e924@threeboysfarm.com>
References: <mailman.18513.1589045457.2964.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
 <6a9d1184-5396-066c-7337-7f1ff121e924@threeboysfarm.com>
Message-ID: <b4d0e575-f584-4669-878c-beb580f53322@bradakis.com>

On 5/9/20 5:41 PM, Mark Miller via Shop-talk wrote:
> Looked at the source as Pat listed below and: they have a 210K BTU 
> outdoor burner, just in case 55K is too wussy for you.? that is some 
> serious energy.? And still well under a hundred bucks.
>
> https://www.webstaurantstore.com/backyard-pro-outdoor-range-patio-stove-with-hose-guard-210-000-btu/554BPHP17.html 
>
>
> PS: if anyone knows what I am doing wrong that causes all these 
> stupid? question marks to show up in posts I'd love to know. Thx!
>
That looks pretty promising.

And I don't see any question marks.? Usually they come from character 
codes not in the character set your mail program is using.

mjb.



From eugene.abbondelo at gmail.com  Sun May 10 08:53:37 2020
From: eugene.abbondelo at gmail.com (Gene Abbondelo)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 10:53:37 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Question about shop pants?
In-Reply-To: <B1DB0FB3-90BE-4748-AB6B-821797CC4789@gmail.com>
References: <OFFD0A2EAB.0A3531FB-ON85258564.003B36B1-85258564.003BDD7A@mail.megageek.com>
 <B1DB0FB3-90BE-4748-AB6B-821797CC4789@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CALk0K8hRUPHJKw-GKusA2Ss8f94DL19XqKhJsxEQ57pPr4ewAA@mail.gmail.com>

I second the Carhart recommendation.  I prefer the bib overalls style.
Around here they're called Maryland Tuxedos.

Gene

On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 9:15 AM David Scheidt via Shop-talk <
shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:

>
>
> On May 10, 2020, at 05:53, eric--- via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> wrote:
>
> OK, I have to ask what most of you hard working shop guy wear for pants?
>
> No, this isn't a dirty question.  It's just that I burn through shop pants
> fairly quickly.  They mostly rip in the crotch long before they are worn
> out completely.
>
>
> I wear carhart b11 and b01 trousers. They are the same basic design, the
> b01 has a double front (and some are made in the USA).  They?re carpenter
> pants, hammer loop, ruler pocket, screwdriver pocket.   They are high
> waisted, so easy to move in.
>  Try a couple sizes, they don?t fit the same as jeans b
>
>
>
>
> I switched to Duluth fire hose pants and they seem to be a little better,
> but still not great, and I notice their "No Bull" guarantee has changed a
> lot and isn't so 'no bullish' anymore.
>
>
> They wouldn?t replace a shoulder bag I got as a gift, because I didn?t
> have a receipt.  The swivel for the shoulder strap used the paint to keep
> it from coming apart; when it wore through the bag took a spill down a
> flight of stairs.  Both swivels were the same, so I think it was just
> utterly crap.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eugene.abbondelo at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun May 10 09:14:01 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 08:14:01 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Question about shop pants?
In-Reply-To: <CALk0K8hRUPHJKw-GKusA2Ss8f94DL19XqKhJsxEQ57pPr4ewAA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <OFFD0A2EAB.0A3531FB-ON85258564.003B36B1-85258564.003BDD7A@mail.megageek.com>
 <B1DB0FB3-90BE-4748-AB6B-821797CC4789@gmail.com>
 <CALk0K8hRUPHJKw-GKusA2Ss8f94DL19XqKhJsxEQ57pPr4ewAA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5e594be0-3a4a-128c-ef9b-d213b147dc6d@comcast.net>

I'm on my fourth or fifth pair (set?) of Dickies all-cotton coveralls; 
lots of pockets--a couple with zippers--hammer loop, sleeve and leg 
snaps.? A little warm in the summer, but durable as all heck and 
breathable (I might try the short-sleeved version someday).

*https://tinyurl.com/y9cmymyt

*
On 5/10/2020 7:53 AM, Gene Abbondelo via Shop-talk wrote:
>
>
> I second the Carhart recommendation.? I prefer the bib overalls 
> style.? Around here they're called Maryland Tuxedos.
>
> Gene
>
> On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 9:15 AM David Scheidt via Shop-talk 
> <shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:shop-talk at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>
>
>     On May 10, 2020, at 05:53, eric--- via Shop-talk
>     <shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:shop-talk at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>>     OK, I have to ask what most of you hard working shop guy wear for
>>     pants?
>>
>>     No, this isn't a dirty question.? It's just that I burn through
>>     shop pants fairly quickly. They mostly rip in the crotch long
>>     before they are worn out completely.
>
>     I wear carhart b11 and b01 trousers. They are the same basic
>     design, the b01 has a double front (and some are made in the
>     USA).? They?re carpenter pants, hammer loop, ruler pocket,
>     screwdriver pocket. ? They are high waisted, so easy to move in.
>     ?Try a couple sizes, they don?t fit the same as jeans b
>
>
>
>>
>>     I switched to Duluth fire hose pants and they seem to be a little
>>     better, but still not great, and I notice their "No Bull"
>>     guarantee has changed a lot and isn't so 'no bullish' anymore.
>>
>

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From fishplate at gmail.com  Sun May 10 09:38:10 2020
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 11:38:10 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Question about shop pants?
In-Reply-To: <OFFD0A2EAB.0A3531FB-ON85258564.003B36B1-85258564.003BDD7A@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OFFD0A2EAB.0A3531FB-ON85258564.003B36B1-85258564.003BDD7A@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CPiAA32m8Mf5RnzkRQSr2_XNMB_nkkmV8n_Oq8LEr8nhw@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 6:59 AM eric--- via Shop-talk <
shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:

> OK, I have to ask what most of you hard working shop guy wear for pants?


Once or twice a year, I go tot he outlet mall.  First I hit the Clearance
rack at the Lee Jeans place,  and stock up on jeans that may or may not
have an irregularity for about $8 to $10 a pair.  Wear them to work until
they are less presentable, then they graduate to the shop, then they are
painting clothes.

After that store, I hit the Ryobi outlet.  Then I get the heck out of
there, because it's a crazy place.
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From marka at maracing.com  Sun May 10 09:53:24 2020
From: marka at maracing.com (Mark Andy)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 11:53:24 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] High heat burner
In-Reply-To: <6a9d1184-5396-066c-7337-7f1ff121e924@threeboysfarm.com>
References: <mailman.18513.1589045457.2964.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
 <6a9d1184-5396-066c-7337-7f1ff121e924@threeboysfarm.com>
Message-ID: <CAAoSWGMGoBs_m7DAEndU=rF0cqx7cQY1xsEBmpj9cXaaKNHq2g@mail.gmail.com>

Howdy,

With a burner like that, is there enough flow from a propane tank that it
freezes up?  I seem to recall issues like that when I used propane to run
heaters.

Mark

On Sat, May 9, 2020 at 7:41 PM Mark Miller via Shop-talk <
shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Looked at the source as Pat listed below and: they have a 210K BTU
> outdoor burner, just in case 55K is too wussy for you.  that is some
> serious energy.  And still well under a hundred bucks.
>
>
> https://www.webstaurantstore.com/backyard-pro-outdoor-range-patio-stove-with-hose-guard-210-000-btu/554BPHP17.html
>
> PS: if anyone knows what I am doing wrong that causes all these stupid
> question marks to show up in posts I'd love to know. Thx!
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Mark Miller   707-490-5834
> markmiller at threeboysfarm.com
> no question marks were injured in the making of this post
>
>
>
> On 5/9/2020 10:30 AM, shop-talk-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> >
> > Message: 5
> > Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 12:40:41 -0700
> > From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard at gmail.com>
> > To: Pat Horne <patintexas at icloud.com>
> > Cc: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>,  "Shop-talk at autox.team.net"
> >       <Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Backyard rocket hot cookers
> > Message-ID:
> >       <CAG1pxga4RX3=
> O3KB-AFZpTghY_yFkoMe8vgcLp+5yr4ZfONkTQ at mail.gmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > I have been doing deep fried turkeys and large fish frying for 25 years
> and
> > the basic turkey fryer and a couple tanks of propane is the solution.
> > Propane is hotter than natural gas, and one tank will last a very long
> > time, it is portable, etc. I have outdoor natural gas and still choose to
> > use propane for fish frying and turkey frying.
> >
> > I have a 25 year-old Master Built that is 100% original, and would highly
> > recommend them.
> >
> > But something like this is all you would need for large scale fish
> frying:
> >
> >
> https://www.webstaurantstore.com/backyard-pro-10-qt-fish-fryer-cooker-55-000-btu/554BPFF19.html?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=GoogleShopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkYnhxb-i6QIVdx-tBh1tNgY-EAYYBSABEgImt_D_BwE
> >
> >
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/marka at maracing.com
>
>
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From ronnie.day at gmail.com  Sun May 10 11:34:47 2020
From: ronnie.day at gmail.com (Ronnie Day)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 12:34:47 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Trailer clean-up and paint
Message-ID: <CAMHhs6csTS8AWUOr=_JXrYFODNM8pPcqnHPXyNpszQmT8nEgnQ@mail.gmail.com>

I'm cleaning up and rebuilding a locally built, wood decked utility
trailer. Typical angle iron/tube frame construction. The original paint is
worn, a lot, and there's considerable surface rust. I took it to the
quarter car wash and cleaned it up as best I could.

I'm not inclined to have the whole thing media blasted so the plan is,
doing a section at a time, to use wire brushes and a detail sander to
remove as much of the loose paint as I can, and then hit that area with
rattle can primer/paint to "seal/convert" the rust I can't get off, then
move to the next section.

Realizing there are products out there that supposedly work like magic,
what actually does a decent job? I'm looking for durability and protection,
not a car show finish.

RD
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun May 10 12:03:36 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 11:03:36 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Trailer clean-up and paint
In-Reply-To: <CAMHhs6csTS8AWUOr=_JXrYFODNM8pPcqnHPXyNpszQmT8nEgnQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMHhs6csTS8AWUOr=_JXrYFODNM8pPcqnHPXyNpszQmT8nEgnQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0a7e4df4-0839-09b1-7a5c-5b64bf3e6f0a@comcast.net>

I've used Permatex 'Rust Treatment' a couple times and had good results:

*https://tinyurl.com/y7z78aew

*As an experiment, I treated a wheelbarrow with surface rust with it (no 
sanding or wire-brushing).? It goes on clear then turns the rusty parts 
black, which indicates to me there is actual chemical conversion.? I 
then painted it with the usual enamel rattle-can paint. After 20 years 
or so outside the paint is faded but there is no rust.? I'm a believer.

Recently, I 'restored' my late father's fire hydrant--someone gave it to 
him, I think because he was restoring a fire engine--which had several 
coats of paint and considerable rust. I spent an hour or so with a wire 
wheel on a 4.5" grinder to get it down to (mostly) bare metal, but with 
some rust remaining.? I painted it with RustOleum rust converter paint 
which came out like black paint but was about half the cost of the 
Permatex; it took more paint to cover it.? My guess is it's just black 
paint with some rust treatment additives, but it's just a guess.

Bob

**
On 5/10/2020 10:34 AM, Ronnie Day via Shop-talk wrote:
> I'm cleaning up and rebuilding a locally built, wood decked utility 
> trailer. Typical angle iron/tube frame construction. The original 
> paint is worn, a lot, and there's considerable surface rust. I took it 
> to the quarter car wash and cleaned it up as best I could.
>
> I'm not inclined to have the whole thing media blasted so the plan is, 
> doing a section at a time, to use wire brushes and a detail sander to 
> remove as much of the loose paint as I can, and then hit that area 
> with rattle can primer/paint to "seal/convert" the rust I can't get 
> off, then move to the next section.
>
> Realizing there are products out there that supposedly work like 
> magic, what actually does a decent job? I'm looking for durability and 
> protection, not a car show finish.
>
> RD
>

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From stearman809 at gmail.com  Sun May 10 12:23:57 2020
From: stearman809 at gmail.com (Karl Vacek)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 13:23:57 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Trailer clean-up and paint
In-Reply-To: <CAMHhs6csTS8AWUOr=_JXrYFODNM8pPcqnHPXyNpszQmT8nEgnQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMHhs6csTS8AWUOr=_JXrYFODNM8pPcqnHPXyNpszQmT8nEgnQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <171ffd45248.28bf.cd27845553c78383775132770b7455be@gmail.com>

I've used RustOleum Rust Reformer for years with excellent results.  It 
applies milky white but clears as it dries and turns the rust black.  On 
some old unused, rusty patio furniture I applied the Rust Reformer with no 
other preparation and then left it outside with no paint for several years. 
 Never rusted again.
Karl

On May 10, 2020 12:37:42 PM Ronnie Day via Shop-talk 
<shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
> I'm cleaning up and rebuilding a locally built, wood decked utility 
> trailer. Typical angle iron/tube frame construction. The original paint is 
> worn, a lot, and there's considerable surface rust. I took it to the 
> quarter car wash and cleaned it up as best I could.
>
> I'm not inclined to have the whole thing media blasted so the plan is, 
> doing a section at a time, to use wire brushes and a detail sander to 
> remove as much of the loose paint as I can, and then hit that area with 
> rattle can primer/paint to "seal/convert" the rust I can't get off, then 
> move to the next section.
>
> Realizing there are products out there that supposedly work like magic, 
> what actually does a decent job? I'm looking for durability and protection, 
> not a car show finish.
>
> RD
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/stearman809 at gmail.com

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From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Sun May 10 13:56:19 2020
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 15:56:19 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Trailer clean-up and paint
In-Reply-To: <CAMHhs6csTS8AWUOr=_JXrYFODNM8pPcqnHPXyNpszQmT8nEgnQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMHhs6csTS8AWUOr=_JXrYFODNM8pPcqnHPXyNpszQmT8nEgnQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <eb8cf86c-593c-f744-541c-e7ad9ec5e7da@mebtel.net>

I'll add my success with the Permatex Rust Conversion (spray can & brush 
applied). In my experience, it seems to work best when applied to rust - 
no need to take it down to clean, bare metal, just degrease and knock 
off anything loose.

POR15 is another option but more expensive. And POR15 needs UV 
protection to retain its color. As I recall, you need to apply a thin 
'mist' coat of paint while the POR15 is still tacky.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

On 5/10/2020 1:34 PM, Ronnie Day via Shop-talk wrote:
> I'm cleaning up and rebuilding a locally built, wood decked utility 
> trailer. Typical angle iron/tube frame construction. The original 
> paint is worn, a lot, and there's considerable surface rust. I took it 
> to the quarter car wash and cleaned it up as best I could.
>
> I'm not inclined to have the whole thing media blasted so the plan is, 
> doing a section at a time, to use wire brushes and a detail sander to 
> remove as much of the loose paint as I can, and then hit that area 
> with rattle can primer/paint to "seal/convert" the rust I can't get 
> off, then move to the next section.
>
> Realizing there are products out there that supposedly work like 
> magic, what actually does a decent job? I'm looking for durability and 
> protection, not a car show finish.
>
> RD


From bk13 at earthlink.net  Sun May 10 14:18:50 2020
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 13:18:50 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Shop-talk] question marks
Message-ID: <678925378.4151.1589141930510@wamui-agami.atl.sa.earthlink.net>


Mark - I'm not seeing any question marks.  If you are, try either a different way of looking at your e-mail (try looking at webmain for example) or seeing if you have the default encoding to change to simplified plain text.  Perhaps you use plain text because it is far safer.

The question marks most likely indicate a character that isn't simple text.  Examples might be smart quotes that tilt in different directions at the start/end the quote, or special hyphens (instead of the simple minus sign).  The may also show up at the end of sentences where double spaces are used.  Look at one of the offending e-mails and see if the question marks happen instead of possible punctuation or line breaks/returns.  I get this at work when sending from a Linux system that does everything in plain text to a Windows system.

I wouldn't be concerned about it with the list if the above explanation seems to fit.

Brian

-----Original Message-----
>From: Mark Miller via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
>Sent: May 9, 2020 4:41 PM
>To: shop-talk at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Shop-talk] High heat burner
>
>PS: if anyone knows what I am doing wrong that causes all these stupid? 
>question marks to show up in posts I'd love to know. Thx!
>
>
>Regards,
>
>Mark Miller   707-490-5834
>markmiller at threeboysfarm.com
>no question marks were injured in the making of this post
>

From bborgstede at charter.net  Sun May 10 15:39:14 2020
From: bborgstede at charter.net (Brian Borgstede)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 16:39:14 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Question about shop pants?
In-Reply-To: <CAO8Q7CPiAA32m8Mf5RnzkRQSr2_XNMB_nkkmV8n_Oq8LEr8nhw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAO8Q7CPiAA32m8Mf5RnzkRQSr2_XNMB_nkkmV8n_Oq8LEr8nhw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <385832A2-9716-4CDD-9A23-318E3ADA06B1@charter.net>

Goodwill. $3 Get a size up if you want ?ballroom ?.

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 10, 2020, at 10:45 AM, Jeff Scarbrough via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> 
> 
>> On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 6:59 AM eric--- via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> OK, I have to ask what most of you hard working shop guy wear for pants?
> 
> Once or twice a year, I go tot he outlet mall.  First I hit the Clearance rack at the Lee Jeans place,  and stock up on jeans that may or may not have an irregularity for about $8 to $10 a pair.  Wear them to work until they are less presentable, then they graduate to the shop, then they are painting clothes.
> 
> After that store, I hit the Ryobi outlet.  Then I get the heck out of there, because it's a crazy place.
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bborgstede at charter.net
> 
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From tomshirleysr44 at gmail.com  Sun May 10 19:05:42 2020
From: tomshirleysr44 at gmail.com (Tom Shirley Sr.)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 21:05:42 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Trailer clean-up and paint
In-Reply-To: <eb8cf86c-593c-f744-541c-e7ad9ec5e7da@mebtel.net>
References: <CAMHhs6csTS8AWUOr=_JXrYFODNM8pPcqnHPXyNpszQmT8nEgnQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <eb8cf86c-593c-f744-541c-e7ad9ec5e7da@mebtel.net>
Message-ID: <CABZPQAndnOJ2Eua_3oE9Pj8Tycq1xGxzT5bRja5mxYHVfjKbQw@mail.gmail.com>

I built a Factory Five Cobra replica about 15 years ago. Painted the frame
with POR-15 and then painted over that with black enamel. No rust after all
these years.

On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 4:01 PM Eric Russell via Shop-talk <
shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I'll add my success with the Permatex Rust Conversion (spray can & brush
> applied). In my experience, it seems to work best when applied to rust -
> no need to take it down to clean, bare metal, just degrease and knock
> off anything loose.
>
> POR15 is another option but more expensive. And POR15 needs UV
> protection to retain its color. As I recall, you need to apply a thin
> 'mist' coat of paint while the POR15 is still tacky.
>
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
>
> On 5/10/2020 1:34 PM, Ronnie Day via Shop-talk wrote:
> > I'm cleaning up and rebuilding a locally built, wood decked utility
> > trailer. Typical angle iron/tube frame construction. The original
> > paint is worn, a lot, and there's considerable surface rust. I took it
> > to the quarter car wash and cleaned it up as best I could.
> >
> > I'm not inclined to have the whole thing media blasted so the plan is,
> > doing a section at a time, to use wire brushes and a detail sander to
> > remove as much of the loose paint as I can, and then hit that area
> > with rattle can primer/paint to "seal/convert" the rust I can't get
> > off, then move to the next section.
> >
> > Realizing there are products out there that supposedly work like
> > magic, what actually does a decent job? I'm looking for durability and
> > protection, not a car show finish.
> >
> > RD
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tomshirleysr44 at gmail.com
>
>
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From rbeels at yahoo.com  Mon May 11 09:33:54 2020
From: rbeels at yahoo.com (Richard Beels)
Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 11:33:54 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Question about shop pants?
In-Reply-To: <OFFD0A2EAB.0A3531FB-ON85258564.003B36B1-85258564.003BDD7A@
 mail.megageek.com>
References: <OFFD0A2EAB.0A3531FB-ON85258564.003B36B1-85258564.003BDD7A@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.125.1589211295.2961.shop-talk@autox.team.net>

+1 for the carhart carpenter pants.  i just lost my last pair when 
the ER nurses cut them off me a few weeks ago.  I was stupid: fell 12 
feet and broke my pelvis is a few places.  I bought a few pairs on 
sale from don't remember where but they are a buy once cry once kind 
of price.  but i'll be buying them again.

They lasted 2-3 years for me - garage stuff, welding, digging 
trenches, logging, construction, etc...  - not all day every day use, 
say, maybe 25-30 hours per week - but they hold up really well.  I 
cut the bottom hem off since I use them in the woods and they don't 
fall apart like other jeans do.  And I have the same problem with the 
crotch wearing out on jeans, but these don't have that problem..


At 05/10/2020 at 06:53, Shakespearean monkeys danced on eric--- via 
Shop-talk's keyboard and said:
>OK, I have to ask what most of you hard working shop guy wear for pants?
>
>No, this isn't a dirty question.  It's just that I burn through shop 
>pants fairly quickly.  They mostly rip in the crotch long before 
>they are worn out completely.
>
>I switched to Duluth fire hose pants and they seem to be a little 
>better, but still not great, and I notice their "No Bull" guarantee 
>has changed a lot and isn't so 'no bullish' anymore.
>
>I was wondering what other may have found.
>
>Note, in the past I also purchased the 'pants by the pound' 
>option.  These were cheap pants that were part of a uniform service 
>company that can no longer be used by them.  They were cheap, but 
>light duty only.
>
>My Army pants work and last pretty well, but they aren't really good 
>for welding and such.
>
>Anyone know of any good alternatives?
>
>Thanks


Cheers!


From 1789alpine at gmail.com  Mon May 11 10:25:19 2020
From: 1789alpine at gmail.com (Jim Stone)
Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 12:25:19 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Fog and Driving Lights
In-Reply-To: <03a201d61fe7$e21239c0$a636ad40$@talktalk.net>
References: <0DB802A9-83F6-4F66-835F-C256F88F5637@gmail.com>
 <CAO8Q7COiPNZBbLhiWtWbW_z36qQttrk4-aEZWuJGyv+HDe0D4A@mail.gmail.com>
 <03a201d61fe7$e21239c0$a636ad40$@talktalk.net>
Message-ID: <5EF2CA57-6795-4A3C-95F7-B597E76DE96D@gmail.com>

Sorry for the long delay.  We lost internet service for a few days right after Neil sent this note and I forgot all about this when it returned.  Neil asked a really good question: ?Why you would want fog & spot lights on together??

I am ashamed to admit that I never really gave this much serious thought.  My unsatisfactory answer is that there was a period switch available to do this and I wanted the functionality of that switch without the looks* of it.  However, now that Neil asks the question, I am left wondering if this is really worth it.  I live near the coast and a fog light would be nice, and there are times when I would love to have the addition of a driving light, but would I ever really want them both on?  I assume there must be a good reason, since 1) Wipac made the switches for a while and 2) they seem to be a desirable accessory for many classic car owners.  Can anyone here give me a good reason why I should go to the trouble of wiring the lights so that both can be used at once?

Thanks, and thanks to Neil for making me step back and consider this.

Jim


*Someone asked me for a photo of that switch outside the group discussion.  For anyone else who is interested, you can see pictures here: wipac rallyman switch <https://www.google.com/search?rls=en&source=univ&tbm=isch&q=wipac+rallyman+switch&client=safari&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiMgqbumqzpAhXKl3IEHd3SAxsQsAR6BAgKEAE&biw=1440&bih=728>

> On May 1, 2020, at 2:39 PM, Neil Sherry via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Should work, I think. Just connect the first one to one light and the input of the second, then the other light to the output of the second relay.
> What you are doing is effectively binary counting, stepping with each successive press of the switch:
> 00
> 01
> 10
> 11
> 00
> ?
> Although I would question why you would want fog & spot lights on together ? I wpuld have thought one or the other ? it?s either foggy and you want the wide flat short beam or clear and you want the narrow longer throw.
> Neil
>  
>  
> From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Jeff Scarbrough via Shop-talk
> Sent: 01 May 2020 01:56
> To: Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fog and Driving Lights
>  
>  
>  
> On Thu, Apr 30, 2020 at 5:47 PM Jim Stone via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:shop-talk at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>> 
>> Does anyone know if such a relay exists?  If not, is there a simple circuit that would make a standard relay work as described?
>  
>  If I recall correctly, a pair of old VW headlight dimming relays would be a period-correct solution.  Grounding the relay by pulling on the turn signal lever would flip-flop the relay between high beam and low beam.  Or, in your case, on or off.  The old relays had to have the headlights on to power them, you would need to figure out how to remind yourself to turn the lights off or use a relay on the ignition wire to control the power.
> 
> Or, use one of them high-falutin' electronic gadgets...
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789alpine at gmail.com

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From fishplate at gmail.com  Mon May 11 10:51:27 2020
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 12:51:27 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Fog and Driving Lights
In-Reply-To: <5EF2CA57-6795-4A3C-95F7-B597E76DE96D@gmail.com>
References: <0DB802A9-83F6-4F66-835F-C256F88F5637@gmail.com>
 <CAO8Q7COiPNZBbLhiWtWbW_z36qQttrk4-aEZWuJGyv+HDe0D4A@mail.gmail.com>
 <03a201d61fe7$e21239c0$a636ad40$@talktalk.net>
 <5EF2CA57-6795-4A3C-95F7-B597E76DE96D@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CNwjBdg2fvzzpdNDYQovOeLf3XDP-YDyRU_G0p5ziKvmg@mail.gmail.com>

On Mon, May 11, 2020 at 12:25 PM Jim Stone via Shop-talk <
shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:

>  Can anyone here give me a good reason why I should go to the trouble of
> wiring the lights so that both can be used at once?
>

I can't give you a /good/ reason, necessarily, but...

As I understand it, spot lamps throw a long-distance, focused point beam.
Fog lamps throw a low, wide beam focused closer to the vehicle.   It's
possible that in non-foggy conditions, someone like a rally car may want
the benefits of both of those types of illumination at the same time.  I
don't know whya single switch would be preferable to individual controls,
but maybe it saves space for stopwatches?

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
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From mark at bradakis.com  Tue May 12 10:33:07 2020
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 10:33:07 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Well blow me down!
Message-ID: <4fafec44-f517-6885-25da-130b447ca84f@bradakis.com>

This is not what I wanted to happen.? Had some very gusty winds 
yesterday, half of our boxelder is no longer attached to the other 
half.? Didn't do any serious damage to Killer or the garage, as far as I 
can tell so far.? After some quick work with my cordless reciprocating 
saw there is at least a pathway to the garage. Still some big limbs 
putting pressure on my internet cable.

It didn't take long for the work ro wear me out.? I had been thinking of 
getting an electric chainsaw, amazing how disasters can always seem to 
provide an excuse for acquiring another tool. But I think I'll hold off, 
and just let professional tree trimmers do the rest of the work.? And 
hope that no big wind gusts disturb the fallen branches and have them 
take out my, and Team Net's, network connection.

mjb.


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From mark at bradakis.com  Tue May 12 10:53:34 2020
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 10:53:34 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Well blow me down!
In-Reply-To: <4fafec44-f517-6885-25da-130b447ca84f@bradakis.com>
References: <4fafec44-f517-6885-25da-130b447ca84f@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <547724f1-e15c-7c28-bd25-ce76b7dbf8c8@bradakis.com>

And this summer I was planning to refurbish my old barrel smoker, using 
my various air powered sanders and painting stuff.? Once the tree crew 
gets done I'll have to see just how badly it is damaged, decide whether 
to fix or replace.

You know, I could get a nice Traeger for about the same amount of money 
I was going to spend on attending the 2020 Kastner Cup in Ohio next 
month.? Hmmm...

mjb.


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From JIBrooks at live.com  Tue May 12 15:13:17 2020
From: JIBrooks at live.com (Jack Brooks)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 21:13:17 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] Charcoal. was: who knows......
In-Reply-To: <0cca83e1-456e-ae33-f6b2-aef7cf464f30@threeboysfarm.com>
References: <mailman.10.1588960802.13522.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
 <0cca83e1-456e-ae33-f6b2-aef7cf464f30@threeboysfarm.com>
Message-ID: <MWHPR06MB315196434BA9386334175442A8BE0@MWHPR06MB3151.namprd06.prod.outlook.com>

Here in the PNW Lazzari, one of my favorites also, is carried by "Cash and Carry" now also known as "Smart Foodservice".  Great lump charcoal and reasonably priced. 

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Mark Miller via Shop-talk
Sent: Friday, May 8, 2020 3:45 PM
To: shop-talk at autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Charcoal. was: who knows......

I'm a big fan of Lazzari mesquite lump charcoal.? Might be only local (SF area), though.
http://www.lazzari.com/

Regards,

Mark Miller   707-490-5834
markmiller at threeboysfarm.com


_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibrooks at live.com


From bk13 at earthlink.net  Tue May 12 17:58:58 2020
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 16:58:58 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Well blow me down!
In-Reply-To: <4fafec44-f517-6885-25da-130b447ca84f@bradakis.com>
References: <4fafec44-f517-6885-25da-130b447ca84f@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <dc93e01e-97f6-10b3-308c-5a3680c1ef20@earthlink.net>

The Harbor Freight corded pole chain saw that is coupon special for 
$60-70 is actually pretty good for getting branches up to about 8". I 
have about 15 hours on it with no problems other than many of my trees 
are too big and tall sometimes.? Very nice to cut high stuff from the 
ground.? I did watch a county fire crew go to work on a tree that fell 
across the road with some Sthil gas powered pole saws and am a bit 
envious, but at $650, they were a bit pricey for my wallet.

You can get an ok corded chainsaw for about $50.? If you are always near 
a plug and not doing a lot of heavy cutting, it will get you buy and you 
don't have to worry about mixing and storing gas/oil.
Sample: 
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Homelite-14-in-9-Amp-Electric-Chainsaw-UT43104/202723256

For irregularly used gas chainsaws, I'm a big fan of a product like 
TruFuel, especially with the bad gas we have in California.? I may go up 
to a year between uses and my regular gas chain saw always starts and 
runs fine

Brian


On 5/12/2020 9:33 AM, Mark J Bradakis via Shop-talk wrote:
> This is not what I wanted to happen.? Had some very gusty winds 
> yesterday, half of our boxelder is no longer attached to the other 
> half.? Didn't do any serious damage to Killer or the garage, as far as 
> I can tell so far.? After some quick work with my cordless 
> reciprocating saw there is at least a pathway to the garage. Still 
> some big limbs putting pressure on my internet cable.
>
> It didn't take long for the work ro wear me out.? I had been thinking 
> of getting an electric chainsaw, amazing how disasters can always seem 
> to provide an excuse for acquiring another tool. But I think I'll hold 
> off, and just let professional tree trimmers do the rest of the work.? 
> And hope that no big wind gusts disturb the fallen branches and have 
> them take out my, and Team Net's, network connection.
>
> mjb.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net
>

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From peterwmurray at gmail.com  Tue May 12 18:34:33 2020
From: peterwmurray at gmail.com (Peter Murray)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 20:34:33 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] High heat burner
In-Reply-To: <CAAoSWGMGoBs_m7DAEndU=rF0cqx7cQY1xsEBmpj9cXaaKNHq2g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.18513.1589045457.2964.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
 <6a9d1184-5396-066c-7337-7f1ff121e924@threeboysfarm.com>
 <CAAoSWGMGoBs_m7DAEndU=rF0cqx7cQY1xsEBmpj9cXaaKNHq2g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ8HLP82k=h5Axsfv_DxtRoOh6KfWcBWNdQMywJjVDzYxG-2Pg@mail.gmail.com>

Oh, that's easily solved - keep it near the burner!

-Peter

On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 12:00 PM Mark Andy via Shop-talk <
shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Howdy,
>
> With a burner like that, is there enough flow from a propane tank that it
> freezes up?  I seem to recall issues like that when I used propane to run
> heaters.
>
> Mark
>
> On Sat, May 9, 2020 at 7:41 PM Mark Miller via Shop-talk <
> shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Looked at the source as Pat listed below and: they have a 210K BTU
>> outdoor burner, just in case 55K is too wussy for you.  that is some
>> serious energy.  And still well under a hundred bucks.
>>
>>
>> https://www.webstaurantstore.com/backyard-pro-outdoor-range-patio-stove-with-hose-guard-210-000-btu/554BPHP17.html
>>
>> PS: if anyone knows what I am doing wrong that causes all these stupid
>> question marks to show up in posts I'd love to know. Thx!
>>
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Mark Miller   707-490-5834
>> markmiller at threeboysfarm.com
>> no question marks were injured in the making of this post
>>
>>
>>
>> On 5/9/2020 10:30 AM, shop-talk-request at autox.team.net wrote:
>> >
>> > Message: 5
>> > Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 12:40:41 -0700
>> > From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard at gmail.com>
>> > To: Pat Horne <patintexas at icloud.com>
>> > Cc: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>,  "Shop-talk at autox.team.net"
>> >       <Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
>> > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Backyard rocket hot cookers
>> > Message-ID:
>> >       <CAG1pxga4RX3=
>> O3KB-AFZpTghY_yFkoMe8vgcLp+5yr4ZfONkTQ at mail.gmail.com>
>> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> >
>> > I have been doing deep fried turkeys and large fish frying for 25 years
>> and
>> > the basic turkey fryer and a couple tanks of propane is the solution.
>> > Propane is hotter than natural gas, and one tank will last a very long
>> > time, it is portable, etc. I have outdoor natural gas and still choose
>> to
>> > use propane for fish frying and turkey frying.
>> >
>> > I have a 25 year-old Master Built that is 100% original, and would
>> highly
>> > recommend them.
>> >
>> > But something like this is all you would need for large scale fish
>> frying:
>> >
>> >
>> https://www.webstaurantstore.com/backyard-pro-10-qt-fish-fryer-cooker-55-000-btu/554BPFF19.html?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=GoogleShopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkYnhxb-i6QIVdx-tBh1tNgY-EAYYBSABEgImt_D_BwE
>> >
>> >
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/marka at maracing.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray at gmail.com
>
>
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From eric at megageek.com  Wed May 13 04:03:04 2020
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 06:03:04 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Well blow me down!
In-Reply-To: <dc93e01e-97f6-10b3-308c-5a3680c1ef20@earthlink.net>
References: <4fafec44-f517-6885-25da-130b447ca84f@bradakis.com>
 <dc93e01e-97f6-10b3-308c-5a3680c1ef20@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <OF9D2A1E34.42019C6F-ON85258567.0036231C-85258567.0037371C@mail.megageek.com>

Ah, Chainsaws, a topic I actually know something about.

The new crop of battery operated chain saws are very impressive. Note, 
they are ideal for 'limbing' a tree (taking apart when it's down on the 
ground.)  You can move around a tree and the saw is not turning or 
anything.  Then, press the button, cut the limb, and the saw stops again. 
They use a great trick to be more efficient at cutting.  Their blades and 
kerfs are about half of a gas saw's.  This means they have to cut less 
wood to do the same job.  It mean less sawdust as well.  (Note, modern 
vacuum cleaners do this also.  They have narrower pickup area, so the same 
size motor is effectively more powerful in a smaller area.)

I am a dewalt man, so I bought the dewalt one...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBVCQ4W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 


It works and runs great.  BUT, if you weren't already in Dewalt battery 
land, I think the Milwaukee chainsaw is a little heavier duty.  It has two 
bar nuts where the dewalt's flaw is it 'toolless' single bolt set up. It's 
great for homeowners that don't really push the saw, but I had problems 
with it when the bar gets a little bit of sawdust in the bar grove.  It's 
easy to fix, but it requires a quick chain removal.

For what you are talking about, I think you'll find an electric chainsaw 
to be the cat's meow!  No gas, no pull start, you get to buy another tool, 
and then you can get other tools now that you have the batteries.

Dewalt does have batteries in 30V, 60V and 120V and the can share 
batteries!


"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?
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From mark at bradakis.com  Wed May 13 15:57:26 2020
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 15:57:26 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Possible Team Net outage
Message-ID: <e283e65f-a877-e712-d3b8-70bea8790aca@bradakis.com>

We had some severe wind gusts in Salt Lake Monday afternoon, about half 
of a large tree blew over, sort of hitting the garage and some cars.? 
Take a look at http://bradakis.com/net_wire.jpg to get an idea of what 
happened.? Inside that marked off area you can see a black wire.? That 
is Team Net's connection to the world. Getting all the fallen branches 
off that wire is beyond my capabilities.? We've contacted some 
professional tree removers, haven't heard back yet, so not sure when the 
mess will be cleaned up.

So basically if we get more wind gusts over the next day or two all that 
debris could shift and take out that network cable.? And Team Net would 
be off the air for who knows how long.? So be aware of that 
possibility.? If it happens, you might be seeing a status message from 
hoosierq at gmail.com that may look suspicious at first glance.? It will be 
from me.

And another note, the old problem of delayed email seems to be occurring 
again.? Currently the delay is one the order of an hour or so, I'll be 
looking into the situation.

Fun times indeed!

mjb.



From nogera at icloud.com  Sat May 16 08:06:32 2020
From: nogera at icloud.com (Robert Nogueirao)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2020 09:06:32 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Silicone brake fluid
Message-ID: <BC243B49-2F6B-45AD-8DA5-30289609DAFD@icloud.com>

I?m helping a friend rebuild her brake system. All new lines and hoses. I?ve rebuilt the calipers, brake cylinders and master cylinder and they are ready to install.
Here?s the problem:
In rebuilding the cylinders I coated the bores lightly with red brake grease and DOT 3 
Fluid.  Now she tells me she may want to go with Silicone fluid.  Does that mean I need to disassemble and wash out all the cylinders and calipers?
Thanks for any answers.

Bob Nogueira 

From stearman809 at gmail.com  Sat May 16 09:16:30 2020
From: stearman809 at gmail.com (Karl Vacek)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2020 10:16:30 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Silicone brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <BC243B49-2F6B-45AD-8DA5-30289609DAFD@icloud.com>
References: <BC243B49-2F6B-45AD-8DA5-30289609DAFD@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <1721e0edcb0.28bf.cd27845553c78383775132770b7455be@gmail.com>

Yes, unfortunately you do.

Every silicone conversion failure I've ever heard of (I even cheated on 
this process once and had a failure of my own) has involved contamination 
with conventional fluid.  Flush all hard lines with lacquer thinner or 
similar, all new rubber and hoses, only lubricate the rubber with silicone 
fluid.

I'd be sure to soak the rubber you've already installed in some sort of 
solvent and even then say a prayer that the DOT 3 didn't get too far into 
the rubber.  Conventional fluid is alcohol based, so alcohol might be there 
way to soak the contaminated rubber, then dry well - like a day or more, 
maybe in warm conditions.

Seems that DOT 3 or 4 gets way into the rubber and eventually reacts once 
it's in silicone fluid.  And then people blame the silicone fluid for 
eating their rubber parts and hoses.

Karl

On May 16, 2020 9:14:23 AM Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk 
<shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I?m helping a friend rebuild her brake system. All new lines and hoses. 
> I?ve rebuilt the calipers, brake cylinders and master cylinder and they are 
> ready to install.
> Here?s the problem:
> In rebuilding the cylinders I coated the bores lightly with red brake 
> grease and DOT 3
> Fluid.  Now she tells me she may want to go with Silicone fluid.  Does that 
> mean I need to disassemble and wash out all the cylinders and calipers?
> Thanks for any answers.
>
> Bob Nogueira
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/stearman809 at gmail.com




From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat May 16 09:33:27 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2020 08:33:27 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Silicone brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <1721e0edcb0.28bf.cd27845553c78383775132770b7455be@gmail.com>
References: <BC243B49-2F6B-45AD-8DA5-30289609DAFD@icloud.com>
 <1721e0edcb0.28bf.cd27845553c78383775132770b7455be@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7e630885-ae19-2178-c856-89702ebaaf19@comcast.net>

Agree.? Usually, the recommended solvent is denatured alcohol (ethanol 
spiked with chemicals to make it undrinkable--well, you /could /drink 
it, but you wouldn't be a happy camper).? I used it to flush my 
Austin-Healey 3000's system decades ago and silicone has been in ever 
since with no issues (that I could attribute to the DoT 5).


On 5/16/2020 8:16 AM, Karl Vacek via Shop-talk wrote:
> Yes, unfortunately you do.
>
> Every silicone conversion failure I've ever heard of (I even cheated 
> on this process once and had a failure of my own) has involved 
> contamination with conventional fluid.? Flush all hard lines with 
> lacquer thinner or similar, all new rubber and hoses, only lubricate 
> the rubber with silicone fluid.
>
> I'd be sure to soak the rubber you've already installed in some sort 
> of solvent and even then say a prayer that the DOT 3 didn't get too 
> far into the rubber.? Conventional fluid is alcohol based, so alcohol 
> might be there way to soak the contaminated rubber, then dry well - 
> like a day or more, maybe in warm conditions.
>
> Seems that DOT 3 or 4 gets way into the rubber and eventually reacts 
> once it's in silicone fluid.? And then people blame the silicone fluid 
> for eating their rubber parts and hoses.
>
> Karl
>
> On May 16, 2020 9:14:23 AM Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk 
> <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> I?m helping a friend rebuild her brake system. All new lines and 
>> hoses. I?ve rebuilt the calipers, brake cylinders and master cylinder 
>> and they are ready to install.
>> Here?s the problem:
>> In rebuilding the cylinders I coated the bores lightly with red brake 
>> grease and DOT 3
>> Fluid.? Now she tells me she may want to go with Silicone fluid.? 
>> Does that mean I need to disassemble and wash out all the cylinders 
>> and calipers?
>> Thanks for any answers.
>>
>> Bob Nogueira
>

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From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Sat May 16 09:46:05 2020
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2020 11:46:05 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Silicone brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <BC243B49-2F6B-45AD-8DA5-30289609DAFD@icloud.com>
References: <BC243B49-2F6B-45AD-8DA5-30289609DAFD@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <16bfe2cc-bca9-a6c6-a501-3b0ff4362488@mebtel.net>

I would clean them out. It may not be required but now would be the best 
& (only?) opportunity.

Alternatively, suggest the use of DOT 4. It is 'regular' brake fluid 
(even though the label on the can will likely say "synthetic") with a 
higher boiling point than DOT 3. And it'd be totally compatible with DOT 3.

DOT 5 (true silicone) has two advantages. 1) it won't eat at paint if 
spilled/leaked and B) it doesn't absorb H2O. However it is more 
expensive and, despite not absorbing water it should still be flushed 
every few years. And if it is spilled/leaked will make repainting 
problematic. (I've heard some painters won't touch a car that has been 
'contaminated' with silicone). Since DOT 4 is not expensive, regular 
flushing every few years is not so dear. And DOT 4 is readily available 
should one need a supply while away from home. May not be true with DOT 5.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

On 5/16/2020 10:06 AM, Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk wrote:
> I?m helping a friend rebuild her brake system. All new lines and hoses. I?ve rebuilt the calipers, brake cylinders and master cylinder and they are ready to install.
> Here?s the problem:
> In rebuilding the cylinders I coated the bores lightly with red brake grease and DOT 3
> Fluid.  Now she tells me she may want to go with Silicone fluid.  Does that mean I need to disassemble and wash out all the cylinders and calipers?
> Thanks for any answers.
>
> Bob Nogueira


From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat May 16 10:04:39 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2020 09:04:39 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Silicone brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <16bfe2cc-bca9-a6c6-a501-3b0ff4362488@mebtel.net>
References: <BC243B49-2F6B-45AD-8DA5-30289609DAFD@icloud.com>
 <16bfe2cc-bca9-a6c6-a501-3b0ff4362488@mebtel.net>
Message-ID: <b8c9f3ce-d3d2-9416-5416-089c833e5b5b@comcast.net>

I have heard Dawn Dish Soap--the 'miracle' detergent--will remove 
silicones and allow for painting.? No personal experience, however.


On 5/16/2020 8:46 AM, Eric Russell via Shop-talk wrote:
> I would clean them out. It may not be required but now would be the 
> best & (only?) opportunity.
>
> Alternatively, suggest the use of DOT 4. It is 'regular' brake fluid 
> (even though the label on the can will likely say "synthetic") with a 
> higher boiling point than DOT 3. And it'd be totally compatible with 
> DOT 3.
>
> DOT 5 (true silicone) has two advantages. 1) it won't eat at paint if 
> spilled/leaked and B) it doesn't absorb H2O. However it is more 
> expensive and, despite not absorbing water it should still be flushed 
> every few years. And if it is spilled/leaked will make repainting 
> problematic. (I've heard some painters won't touch a car that has been 
> 'contaminated' with silicone). Since DOT 4 is not expensive, regular 
> flushing every few years is not so dear. And DOT 4 is readily 
> available should one need a supply while away from home. May not be 
> true with DOT 5.
>
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
>
> On 5/16/2020 10:06 AM, Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk wrote:
>> I?m helping a friend rebuild her brake system. All new lines and 
>> hoses. I?ve rebuilt the calipers, brake cylinders and master cylinder 
>> and they are ready to install.
>> Here?s the problem:
>> In rebuilding the cylinders I coated the bores lightly with red brake 
>> grease and DOT 3
>> Fluid.? Now she tells me she may want to go with Silicone fluid.? 
>> Does that mean I need to disassemble and wash out all the cylinders 
>> and calipers?
>> Thanks for any answers.
>>
>> Bob Nogueira
>
> _______________________________________________


From jem at milleredp.com  Sat May 16 11:38:39 2020
From: jem at milleredp.com (John Miller)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2020 10:38:39 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Silicone brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <16bfe2cc-bca9-a6c6-a501-3b0ff4362488@mebtel.net>
References: <BC243B49-2F6B-45AD-8DA5-30289609DAFD@icloud.com>
 <16bfe2cc-bca9-a6c6-a501-3b0ff4362488@mebtel.net>
Message-ID: <6d6f8933-269c-66aa-fd13-53dd7add10d1@milleredp.com>

On 5/16/2020 8:46 AM, Eric Russell via Shop-talk wrote:
> I would clean them out. It may not be required but now would be the best 
> & (only?) opportunity.

Now that they've taken rubber-safe chlorinated brake cleaner off the 
market, you have to buy Lectra-Clean
> 
> Alternatively, suggest the use of DOT 4. It is 'regular' brake fluid 
> (even though the label on the can will likely say "synthetic") with a 
> higher boiling point than DOT 3. And it'd be totally compatible with DOT 3.

I have a hard time understanding why one would want to use silicone.

There's DOT 4, DOT 5.1 (which is not silicone) and now DOT 4+ which 
combines the temperature ratings of DOT 5.1 with the viscosity of DOT 4.

John.

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat May 16 14:57:03 2020
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2020 14:57:03 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] The road goes on forever, the plumbing never ends
Message-ID: <e5ed2ad1-765c-44dd-8954-61802872c788@bradakis.com>

I may not be that handsome, but I'm fairly handy around the house.? 
Kitchen sink drain clogged up again.? It has been a continual problem.? 
Basically it involves about 15 feet of drain pipe that has about a 
quarter inch drop over the run.? Well, maybe more than that, but not 
much more.? I made it a lot easier many years ago by putting in a T 
fitting in a spot easy to get to, so I no longer need to snake the 
entire length by taking apart the pipes at the sink.

The drain pipe is 2" internal diameter.? The corkscrew on the end of the 
snake might be 3/8" in diameter. It bores a pretty small hole in the 
gunk clogging the pipe, so it doesn't take long to clog again.? I don't 
think there are any small, handhelp drain snakes with really big tips on 
them, capable of cleaning the entire inside diameter of the pipe.? I 
have seen these at the hardware stores made for bigger, heavier 
machines.? Not something I want to hold head high while working on the 
drain.

I was thinking maybe I could fab up a steel rod.? One end would have a 
hole the size of the snake coil, the other end a slot with a grub screw 
to fit the Brass Craft ends.? Seems simple.? I wonder it the snake coil 
is weldable, or at least brazable?? I'd hate to have it fail by breaking 
off as soon as any force is applied, i. e. the cutter hits the clog.? 
Having a chunk of steel lodged a few feet into the pipe would make 
subsequent snaking problematic. Would my plan work?

Such fun having to clean drains right after the falling tree mess and 
the muffler blowing out on my Blazer.? Does May, or for that matter 2020 
have a reset - do over button?

mjb.


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From patintexas at icloud.com  Sat May 16 15:41:02 2020
From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2020 16:41:02 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] The road goes on forever, the plumbing never ends
In-Reply-To: <e5ed2ad1-765c-44dd-8954-61802872c788@bradakis.com>
References: <e5ed2ad1-765c-44dd-8954-61802872c788@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <685C44B4-077E-408D-A68B-8A47E4278106@icloud.com>

Mark, I have a very similar problem with a low spot in my pipe that plugs up. It?s 25.2 feet from the nearest clean out which means I needed to go to the next longer snake which is 1/2? diameter. I bought one of those brass craft kits but haven?t done anything with it yet. 

I was out of town the last time it plugged so the wife called a plumber. $150 later it worked fine for 2 years. I?m planning on adding the bread craft cutter to the end of the snake by bending the opposite end of the snake to give me a loop to attach the cutter to. I?d rather take the chance of loosing a small piece of metal in The pipe than something larger. A magnet on the end of the snake would have a better chance of pulling the piece out if it was small. The corkscrew might also be able to get hold of it too. 

Good luck. 

Peace,
Pat 

Pat Horne 
We support Habitat for Humanity


On May 16, 2020, at 4:28 PM, Mark J Bradakis via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:

?I may not be that handsome, but I'm fairly handy around the house.  Kitchen sink drain clogged up again.  It has been a continual problem.  Basically it involves about 15 feet of drain pipe that has about a quarter inch drop over the run.  Well, maybe more than that, but not much more.  I made it a lot easier many years ago by putting in a T fitting in a spot easy to get to, so I no longer need to snake the entire length by taking apart the pipes at the sink.

The drain pipe is 2" internal diameter.  The corkscrew on the end of the snake might be 3/8" in diameter. It bores a pretty small hole in the gunk clogging the pipe, so it doesn't take long to clog again.  I don't think there are any small, handhelp drain snakes with really big tips on them, capable of cleaning the entire inside diameter of the pipe.  I have seen these at the hardware stores made for bigger, heavier machines.  Not something I want to hold head high while working on the drain.

I was thinking maybe I could fab up a steel rod.  One end would have a hole the size of the snake coil, the other end a slot with a grub screw to fit the Brass Craft ends.  Seems simple.  I wonder it the snake coil is weldable, or at least brazable?  I'd hate to have it fail by breaking off as soon as any force is applied, i. e. the cutter hits the clog.  Having a chunk of steel lodged a few feet into the pipe would make subsequent snaking problematic. Would my plan work?

Such fun having to clean drains right after the falling tree mess and the muffler blowing out on my Blazer.  Does May, or for that matter 2020 have a reset - do over button?

mjb.


<20200516_140525.jpg>
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com


From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Sat May 16 15:57:55 2020
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2020 17:57:55 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] The road goes on forever, the plumbing never ends
In-Reply-To: <685C44B4-077E-408D-A68B-8A47E4278106@icloud.com>
References: <e5ed2ad1-765c-44dd-8954-61802872c788@bradakis.com>
 <685C44B4-077E-408D-A68B-8A47E4278106@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <a16fb98c-5521-4477-b994-f66f940426f3@mebtel.net>

Could you attach some sort of round wire brush - like a huge gun 
cleaning brush? Something like a boiler tube cleaner?

https://www.oswaldsupply.com/1-1-2-round-fiber-boiler-tube-brush-head-mb1hf.html?kw=MB1HF&c=Shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjwnv71BRCOARIsAIkxW9HGJ3VVgTPdLHJTl8DAgGKf_vgBYBvfYuGjg4Hz60cn7sZ8c2vMtk8aAq-8EALw_wcB 


Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

> On May 16, 2020, at 4:28 PM, Mark J Bradakis via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> The drain pipe is 2" internal diameter.  The corkscrew on the end of the snake might be 3/8" in diameter. It bores a pretty small hole in the gunk clogging the pipe, so it doesn't take long to clog again.  I don't think there are any small, handhelp drain snakes with really big tips on them, capable of cleaning the entire inside diameter of the pipe.  I have seen these at the hardware stores made for bigger, heavier machines.  Not something I want to hold head high while working on the drain.
>


From dhlocker at comcast.net  Sat May 16 18:04:51 2020
From: dhlocker at comcast.net (Donald H Locker)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2020 20:04:51 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] The road goes on forever, the plumbing never ends
In-Reply-To: <e5ed2ad1-765c-44dd-8954-61802872c788@bradakis.com>
References: <e5ed2ad1-765c-44dd-8954-61802872c788@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <21941057-93fd-ecee-35b3-d813521e9346@comcast.net>

Have you considered just "unwinding" the tip of the corkscrew end a bit?
Changing it from a 3/8" to [say] a 3/4"?

With a pointy tip sticking out wide of the rest of the coils, I would
expect it to pull itself outwards as it rotates, thereby increasing the
swept diameter.

As far as brazing a new fitting to the end of you current snake, that
should work just fine, especially if you brazing skills are better than
my rusty skills. And if something breaks off, it should be gnarly enough
to be snagged by a corkscrew, yes?

HTH,
Donald.
--
*Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
() no proprietary attachments; no html mail
/\ <https://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml>

On 2020-05-16 4:57 p.m., Mark J Bradakis via Shop-talk wrote:
> I may not be that handsome, but I'm fairly handy around the house.?
> Kitchen sink drain clogged up again.? It has been a continual problem.?
> Basically it involves about 15 feet of drain pipe that has about a
> quarter inch drop over the run.? Well, maybe more than that, but not
> much more.? I made it a lot easier many years ago by putting in a T
> fitting in a spot easy to get to, so I no longer need to snake the
> entire length by taking apart the pipes at the sink.
> 
> The drain pipe is 2" internal diameter.? The corkscrew on the end of the
> snake might be 3/8" in diameter. It bores a pretty small hole in the
> gunk clogging the pipe, so it doesn't take long to clog again.? I don't
> think there are any small, handhelp drain snakes with really big tips on
> them, capable of cleaning the entire inside diameter of the pipe.? I
> have seen these at the hardware stores made for bigger, heavier
> machines.? Not something I want to hold head high while working on the
> drain.
> 
> I was thinking maybe I could fab up a steel rod.? One end would have a
> hole the size of the snake coil, the other end a slot with a grub screw
> to fit the Brass Craft ends.? Seems simple.? I wonder it the snake coil
> is weldable, or at least brazable?? I'd hate to have it fail by breaking
> off as soon as any force is applied, i. e. the cutter hits the clog.?
> Having a chunk of steel lodged a few feet into the pipe would make
> subsequent snaking problematic. Would my plan work?
> 
> Such fun having to clean drains right after the falling tree mess and
> the muffler blowing out on my Blazer.? Does May, or for that matter 2020
> have a reset - do over button?
> 
> mjb.


From markmiller at threeboysfarm.com  Sun May 17 01:54:26 2020
From: markmiller at threeboysfarm.com (Mark Miller)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 00:54:26 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Snakes in a Drain
In-Reply-To: <mailman.19217.1589663116.2964.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.19217.1589663116.2964.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <397c6831-0d5e-f40a-3a68-8e8278be7fcd@threeboysfarm.com>

Sounds like time for a bigger snake.? How about the combo of:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-PowerClear-Drain-Cleaner-55808/301441725 
power snake

plus a bigger tip for it:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/T-240-3-Piece-Drain-Cleaning-Tool-Set-12128/100348304

About $200 for the set.

And if that doesn't work there are places to get an array of tips? 
https://discountsewercable.com/38-accessories.html


Regards,

Mark Miller   707-490-5834
markmiller at threeboysfarm.com

On 5/16/2020 2:05 PM, shop-talk-request at autox.team.net wrote:
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>     1. The road goes on forever, the plumbing never ends
>        (Mark J Bradakis)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 16 May 2020 14:57:03 -0600
> From: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
> To: "Shop-talk at autox.team.net" <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Shop-talk] The road goes on forever, the plumbing never ends
> Message-ID: <e5ed2ad1-765c-44dd-8954-61802872c788 at bradakis.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
>
> I may not be that handsome, but I'm fairly handy around the house.?
> Kitchen sink drain clogged up again.? It has been a continual problem.?
> Basically it involves about 15 feet of drain pipe that has about a
> quarter inch drop over the run.? Well, maybe more than that, but not
> much more.? I made it a lot easier many years ago by putting in a T
> fitting in a spot easy to get to, so I no longer need to snake the
> entire length by taking apart the pipes at the sink.
>
> The drain pipe is 2" internal diameter.? The corkscrew on the end of the
> snake might be 3/8" in diameter. It bores a pretty small hole in the
> gunk clogging the pipe, so it doesn't take long to clog again.? I don't
> think there are any small, handhelp drain snakes with really big tips on
> them, capable of cleaning the entire inside diameter of the pipe.? I
> have seen these at the hardware stores made for bigger, heavier
> machines.? Not something I want to hold head high while working on the
> drain.
>
> I was thinking maybe I could fab up a steel rod.? One end would have a
> hole the size of the snake coil, the other end a slot with a grub screw
> to fit the Brass Craft ends.? Seems simple.? I wonder it the snake coil
> is weldable, or at least brazable?? I'd hate to have it fail by breaking
> off as soon as any force is applied, i. e. the cutter hits the clog.?
> Having a chunk of steel lodged a few feet into the pipe would make
> subsequent snaking problematic. Would my plan work?
>
> Such fun having to clean drains right after the falling tree mess and
> the muffler blowing out on my Blazer.? Does May, or for that matter 2020
> have a reset - do over button?
>
> mjb.
>
>

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun May 17 09:59:05 2020
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 09:59:05 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Roof damage
Message-ID: <6dda11c0-c09d-b468-5207-c8d870fa724f@bradakis.com>

So when the tree guys were up on the garage roof, one of them informed 
me there was a hole in the roof.? He wasn't too specific, but it had me 
wondering.? I was afraid that the fallen tree would have caused some 
serious problems with the roof. Finally got out the ladder and took a 
look at it today.

I don't think I'll be needing to call in the pros. I got this.

mjb.


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From tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com  Sun May 17 12:27:01 2020
From: tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com (Tim .)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 18:27:01 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] snow blower fuel fitting
Message-ID: <DM5PR0401MB3670CDA40649717FC7B65C38B4BB0@DM5PR0401MB3670.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

I finally tracked down the fuel leak that two different shops failed to find/fix....the idiots.

My problem is I can't get the metal part of the old fitting out. It appears to be a press in. At least, based on the look of the new part anyway. I put vise grips on the old part and it won't budge.

Any thoughts on why I can't get the old part out?

thanks
tim
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From markmiller at threeboysfarm.com  Sun May 17 13:29:38 2020
From: markmiller at threeboysfarm.com (Mark Miller)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 12:29:38 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop-talk Digest, Vol 14, Issue 125
In-Reply-To: <mailman.19284.1589731150.2964.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.19284.1589731150.2964.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <c2b3370a-b7e8-9625-d922-7ee0279cc308@threeboysfarm.com>

 From the image you also seem to have a roof nearing the end its 
lifespan.? Keep an eye on that thing.

Regards,

Mark Miller   707-490-5834
markmiller at threeboysfarm.com


>     5. Roof damage (Mark J Bradakis)
>
>
> So when the tree guys were up on the garage roof, one of them informed
> me there was a hole in the roof.? He wasn't too specific, but it had me
> wondering.? I was afraid that the fallen tree would have caused some
> serious problems with the roof. Finally got out the ladder and took a
> look at it today.
>
>
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk/attachments/20200517/387153ed/attachment.jpg>
>
>

From nogera at icloud.com  Sun May 17 14:49:12 2020
From: nogera at icloud.com (Robert Nogueirao)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 15:49:12 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] The road goes on forever, the plumbing never ends
In-Reply-To: <e5ed2ad1-765c-44dd-8954-61802872c788@bradakis.com>
References: <e5ed2ad1-765c-44dd-8954-61802872c788@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <1D8C4966-EBCA-4E7B-AD5C-2E14A9A070CE@icloud.com>

I had the same problem, long 2? maybe 1/12 pipe from kitchen to the main drain pipe.it would clog at least once a year. First few years I used a garden hose. After realizing I was spending a lot on garden hoses I bought a snake. Both worked to get the drain working but problem was back in less than a year each time.  Next blockage a few months later I decided to get medieval and rented the biggest power snake I could rent.
Few months later pipe is blocked again. With winter hard in I called a plumber.
He showed up with a power snake which was exactly like the one I rented.( oh damn I?ve just blown new tire money). I watched what he did carefully,  first thing he did was tie  a rag around the spiraled end of the snake. He then ran it down the clean out once and that was it.  It hasn?t clogged up in the past 4 years .
He wasn?t the talkative type  but did tell me the rag allowed the snake to easily make the turns in the pipe and packs down grease which is not knocked off by the snake.  
I just know it works.   

Bob Nogueira 

> On May 16, 2020, at 4:51 PM, Mark J Bradakis via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?I may not be that handsome, but I'm fairly handy around the house.  Kitchen sink drain clogged up again.  It has been a continual problem.  Basically it involves about 15 feet of drain pipe that has about a quarter inch drop over the run.  Well, maybe more than that, but not much more.  I made it a lot easier many years ago by putting in a T fitting in a spot easy to get to, so I no longer need to snake the entire length by taking apart the pipes at the sink.
> 
> The drain pipe is 2" internal diameter.  The corkscrew on the end of the snake might be 3/8" in diameter. It bores a pretty small hole in the gunk clogging the pipe, so it doesn't take long to clog again.  I don't think there are any small, handhelp drain snakes with really big tips on them, capable of cleaning the entire inside diameter of the pipe.  I have seen these at the hardware stores made for bigger, heavier machines.  Not something I want to hold head high while working on the drain.
> 
> I was thinking maybe I could fab up a steel rod.  One end would have a hole the size of the snake coil, the other end a slot with a grub screw to fit the Brass Craft ends.  Seems simple.  I wonder it the snake coil is weldable, or at least brazable?  I'd hate to have it fail by breaking off as soon as any force is applied, i. e. the cutter hits the clog.  Having a chunk of steel lodged a few feet into the pipe would make subsequent snaking problematic. Would my plan work?
> 
> Such fun having to clean drains right after the falling tree mess and the muffler blowing out on my Blazer.  Does May, or for that matter 2020 have a reset - do over button?
> 
> mjb.
> 
> 
> <20200516_140525.jpg>
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/nogera at icloud.com
> 

From gsteve at hammatt.com  Sun May 17 14:59:07 2020
From: gsteve at hammatt.com (Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 13:59:07 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Asking for tool i.d. assistance
Message-ID: <5D96CCEE2C634101B93B882FF7B7D0FA@DESKTOPTOA1F5G>

I?m do what many of us are doing.......cleaning up, throwing away, re-organizing, etc.
I ran across this tool.  I?m thinking it?s for tightening some sort of large diameter 
plastic(?) cap.  Anybody able to i.d. the actual wrench or specific application.  I need 
to either treasure it or dispose of it.  Super thanks everybody!
Steve

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA
www.leatherplates.com


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From mark at bradakis.com  Sun May 17 15:10:47 2020
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 15:10:47 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Asking for tool i.d. assistance
In-Reply-To: <5D96CCEE2C634101B93B882FF7B7D0FA@DESKTOPTOA1F5G>
References: <5D96CCEE2C634101B93B882FF7B7D0FA@DESKTOPTOA1F5G>
Message-ID: <b6465719-5856-275e-f4b7-cadb5ea6203c@bradakis.com>

It might be a wrench for an under sink water filter.

mjb.



From jamesf at groupwbench.org  Sun May 17 15:18:38 2020
From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 17:18:38 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Asking for tool i.d. assistance
In-Reply-To: <5D96CCEE2C634101B93B882FF7B7D0FA@DESKTOPTOA1F5G>
References: <5D96CCEE2C634101B93B882FF7B7D0FA@DESKTOPTOA1F5G>
Message-ID: <184297C5-EF96-4867-B296-2ADEE301C505@groupwbench.org>

That's a Shrodinger Wrench. You con't know how much to treasure it while you still have it. 

jim

> On May 17, 2020, at 4:59 PM, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> I?m do what many of us are doing.......cleaning up, throwing away, re-organizing, etc.
> I ran across this tool.  I?m thinking it?s for tightening some sort of large diameter
> plastic(?) cap.  Anybody able to i.d. the actual wrench or specific application.  I need
> to either treasure it or dispose of it.  Super thanks everybody!
> Steve
>  
> Steve Hammatt
> Mount Vernon WA USA
> www.leatherplates.com
> 
> 
> <IMG_2911.JPG>_______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org
> 

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From mark at bradakis.com  Sun May 17 15:23:56 2020
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 15:23:56 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop-talk Digest, Vol 14, Issue 125
In-Reply-To: <c2b3370a-b7e8-9625-d922-7ee0279cc308@threeboysfarm.com>
References: <mailman.19284.1589731150.2964.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
 <c2b3370a-b7e8-9625-d922-7ee0279cc308@threeboysfarm.com>
Message-ID: <58582aee-f005-311d-d3d2-6dbccce07e56@bradakis.com>

On 5/17/20 1:29 PM, Mark Miller via Shop-talk wrote:
> From the image you also seem to have a roof nearing the end its 
> lifespan.? Keep an eye on that thing.


Indeed.? That is the original roof from 1987? on the garage.? I should 
have taken a picture showing the big difference between the sun baked 
south side which is what you see here and the relatively shaded, nearly 
pristine north side.

mjb.



From dhlocker at comcast.net  Sun May 17 16:15:56 2020
From: dhlocker at comcast.net (Donald H Locker)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 18:15:56 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Asking for tool i.d. assistance
In-Reply-To: <5D96CCEE2C634101B93B882FF7B7D0FA@DESKTOPTOA1F5G>
References: <5D96CCEE2C634101B93B882FF7B7D0FA@DESKTOPTOA1F5G>
Message-ID: <dd3259c4-1040-9fc0-9099-e583ecd488b1@comcast.net>

Though I think Jim Franklin has the most accurate answer (Schroedinger's
Wrench) I believe the application of this wrench will be for the
cartridges on water filters. I currently have such under my sink here;
in a previous house, there were two cartridge filters mounted between
the well reservoir and the water softener. Both had similar wrenches.

Donald.
--
*Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
() no proprietary attachments; no html mail
/\ <https://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml>

On 2020-05-17 4:59 p.m., Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA via
Shop-talk wrote:
> I?m do what many of us are doing.......cleaning up, throwing away,
> re-organizing, etc.
> I ran across this tool.? I?m thinking it?s for tightening some sort of
> large diameter
> plastic(?) cap.? Anybody able to i.d. the actual wrench or specific
> application.? I need
> to either treasure it or dispose of it.? Super thanks everybody!
> Steve
> ?
> Steve Hammatt
> Mount Vernon WA USA
> www.leatherplates.com


From dhlocker at comcast.net  Sun May 17 16:18:32 2020
From: dhlocker at comcast.net (Donald H Locker)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 18:18:32 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] snow blower fuel fitting
In-Reply-To: <DM5PR0401MB3670CDA40649717FC7B65C38B4BB0@DM5PR0401MB3670.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DM5PR0401MB3670CDA40649717FC7B65C38B4BB0@DM5PR0401MB3670.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <0800b852-fc16-376f-a4d6-0a1a147167e8@comcast.net>

That sure looks like it's threaded in. Perhaps a stud remover could get
a grip on it.

Donald.
--
*Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
() no proprietary attachments; no html mail
/\ <https://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml>

On 2020-05-17 2:27 p.m., Tim . via Shop-talk wrote:
> I finally tracked down the fuel leak that two different shops failed to
> find/fix....the idiots.?
> 
> My problem is I can't get the metal part of the old fitting out. It
> appears to be a press in. At least, based on the look of the new part
> anyway. I put vise grips on the old part and it won't budge.?
> 
> Any thoughts on why I can't get the old part out?
> 
> thanks
> tim

From dhlocker at comcast.net  Sun May 17 16:20:11 2020
From: dhlocker at comcast.net (Donald H Locker)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 18:20:11 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] snow blower fuel fitting
In-Reply-To: <0800b852-fc16-376f-a4d6-0a1a147167e8@comcast.net>
References: <DM5PR0401MB3670CDA40649717FC7B65C38B4BB0@DM5PR0401MB3670.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
 <0800b852-fc16-376f-a4d6-0a1a147167e8@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4591e076-7cde-34e9-99c0-672646a14971@comcast.net>

Oh. I see. The new part is adjacent the old in the photo. Then it would
appear to be pressed or otherwise not-threaded. Brazed? I'm baffled.

Donald.
--
*Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
() no proprietary attachments; no html mail
/\ <https://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml>

On 2020-05-17 6:18 p.m., Donald H Locker wrote:
> That sure looks like it's threaded in. Perhaps a stud remover could get
> a grip on it.
> 
> Donald.
> --
> *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
> () no proprietary attachments; no html mail
> /\ <https://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml>
> 
> On 2020-05-17 2:27 p.m., Tim . via Shop-talk wrote:
>> I finally tracked down the fuel leak that two different shops failed to
>> find/fix....the idiots.?
>>
>> My problem is I can't get the metal part of the old fitting out. It
>> appears to be a press in. At least, based on the look of the new part
>> anyway. I put vise grips on the old part and it won't budge.?
>>
>> Any thoughts on why I can't get the old part out?
>>
>> thanks
>> tim

From eric at megageek.com  Sun May 17 17:16:11 2020
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 19:16:11 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Asking for tool i.d. assistance
In-Reply-To: <5D96CCEE2C634101B93B882FF7B7D0FA@DESKTOPTOA1F5G>
References: <5D96CCEE2C634101B93B882FF7B7D0FA@DESKTOPTOA1F5G>
Message-ID: <OF730ABF85.F8558BD8-ON8525856B.007FADB6-8525856B.007FD38B@mail.megageek.com>

I would say it was for a proprietary pool filter pump or water filter 
unit.

Bring it to the Home Deport with you next time and see if it fits on their 
whole house water filters.


"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?
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From gsteve at hammatt.com  Sun May 17 18:53:02 2020
From: gsteve at hammatt.com (Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 17:53:02 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Asking for tool i.d. assistance
In-Reply-To: <OF730ABF85.F8558BD8-ON8525856B.007FADB6-8525856B.007FD38B@mail.megageek.com>
References: <5D96CCEE2C634101B93B882FF7B7D0FA@DESKTOPTOA1F5G>
 <OF730ABF85.F8558BD8-ON8525856B.007FADB6-8525856B.007FD38B@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <2FB8686CCA904B3FA220FD1025D6A667@DESKTOPTOA1F5G>

Actually it fits 5-gallon chemical container?s caps (screw-on/off lids) 
and I found the absolute right person for it.  That?s what I call a 
win-win outcome.  Thanks for all the replies.
Steve

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA
www.leatherplates.com



From: eric at megageek.com 
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020 4:16 PM
To: Shop-talk at autox.team.net 
Cc: Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA 
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Asking for tool i.d. assistance
I would say it was for a proprietary pool filter pump or water filter unit. 

Bring it to the Home Deport with you next time and see if it fits on their whole house water filters. 


"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?
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From eric at megageek.com  Sun May 24 05:02:44 2020
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 07:02:44 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Overalls and Carhartt Discount
Message-ID: <OFAD16C10F.EE95E10C-ON85258572.003BE931-85258572.003CAD91@mail.megageek.com>

I just wanted to follow up on my pant's question.

First, I went looking for Carhartt Overalls as that seemed to be the 
group's consensus.

While Tractor Supply carries Carhartt, they don't have their overalls. 
Since I was there, I picked up a pair of their house brand overalls.

Been given them the torture test and they are doing great.  I am in love 
with overalls for work pants.

Decided to get some Carhartts to add to my availible work pants.

Turns out, if you are 1st responder, military, police, nurses, etc, there 
is a 25% off you entire offer either in their stores or on line.

Since I don't want lined overalls, these meansthe Carhartt overalls are 
CHEAPER than most other brands.

I just wanted to let you all know that if you qualify for the discount, 
that is a sweet deal.

I was looking at other brands of overalls and one thing I found is that 
it's really hard to separate the 'work' overalls from the 'fashion' 
overalls. In some cases, the models on the website were dead give-aways, 
but many other brands it was hard to tell.  I know that Carhartts should 
be 'work' quality, so I think I'll just stick with them.

Have a great Memoral Day (those in the US) and remember those that paid 
for our freedom!

"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?
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From eric at megageek.com  Sun May 24 10:20:40 2020
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 12:20:40 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] ford cab rubber drain roller nap
Message-ID: <OF3B059553.D71C6B77-ON85258572.00598CF0-85258572.0059C8A7@mail.megageek.com>

I wanted to put the Rust-Oleum Truck Bed Coating on my mason dump.  there 
is an 'applicator kit' that is nothing more than a 6" roller and brush. 
Since this is a larger bed, I wanted to use a 12" roller, but I can't find 
any description of the nap of the roller.

Reviews on Amazon for the kit are horrible, so I definitely want to have 
my own roller.

Any ideas on what I use use?

Thanks.


"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?
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From miq at bigllama.com  Sun May 24 11:25:29 2020
From: miq at bigllama.com (Miq Millman)
Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 10:25:29 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] ford cab rubber drain roller nap
In-Reply-To: <OF3B059553.D71C6B77-ON85258572.00598CF0-85258572.0059C8A7@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF3B059553.D71C6B77-ON85258572.00598CF0-85258572.0059C8A7@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <CALUbS3Fb1QsnzkTkzT=2bAq8==mTLrH8bWJQpaHzNuyvFYWM8w@mail.gmail.com>

I used Durabak roll-on liner on the old toyota pickup, and found these open
cell plastic foam rollers did a good job of both holding the thick paint,
and created a nice "stippled finish".

9" rollers was biggest I could find:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BVEML10

Ended up using 4 rollers for the bedliner and fiberglass cap (also covered)

--
__
Miq Millman   miq at bigllama.com
Tualatin, OR  Big Llama Productions


<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon>
Virus-free.
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On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 9:20 AM eric--- via Shop-talk <
shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I wanted to put the Rust-Oleum Truck Bed Coating on my mason dump.  there
> is an 'applicator kit' that is nothing more than a 6" roller and brush.
> Since this is a larger bed, I wanted to use a 12" roller, but I can't find
> any description of the nap of the roller.
>
> Reviews on Amazon for the kit are horrible, so I definitely want to have
> my own roller.
>
> Any ideas on what I use use?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt? _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/miq at bigllama.com
>
>
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From nogera at icloud.com  Sun May 24 12:20:08 2020
From: nogera at icloud.com (Robert Nogueirao)
Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 13:20:08 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Inch pounds
Message-ID: <B062EF84-08BE-4826-B8E2-7914950363F7@icloud.com>

Folk I?m  rebuilding a steering box.  The manual says to set the peg thrust adjustment so it takes 12 inch pounds at the rim of the steering wheel to over come the ?high spot? or resistance.
I have always heard of ?inch pounds? as a measure of torque. If so, would it not be measured from the center of the steering wheel?  
Lacking a inch pound torque wrench my plan was to hang a one lbs weight 12 inches from the center of the wheel and make the adjustment until the weight can over come the resistance and falls.
Is this what you think the author meant?
Bob Nogueira 

From jamesf at groupwbench.org  Sun May 24 12:35:34 2020
From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin)
Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 14:35:34 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Inch pounds
In-Reply-To: <B062EF84-08BE-4826-B8E2-7914950363F7@icloud.com>
References: <B062EF84-08BE-4826-B8E2-7914950363F7@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <37275988-0DE2-439F-A6DC-E8E190813B9A@groupwbench.org>

Maybe they're trying to account for different diameter steering wheels, so that each one will feel the same? 

I would still use the rim of the steering wheel, and figure out a way to hang a lb 12" from the rim. I like inch-lb torque wrenches because they're more accurate at low torque, like for oil pans. 

jim

> On May 24, 2020, at 2:20 PM, Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Folk I?m  rebuilding a steering box.  The manual says to set the peg thrust adjustment so it takes 12 inch pounds at the rim of the steering wheel to over come the ?high spot? or resistance.
> I have always heard of ?inch pounds? as a measure of torque. If so, would it not be measured from the center of the steering wheel?  
> Lacking a inch pound torque wrench my plan was to hang a one lbs weight 12 inches from the center of the wheel and make the adjustment until the weight can over come the resistance and falls.
> Is this what you think the author meant?
> Bob Nogueira 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org
> 


From neiljsherry at talktalk.net  Sun May 24 14:15:40 2020
From: neiljsherry at talktalk.net (neiljsherry at talktalk.net)
Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 21:15:40 +0100
Subject: [Shop-talk] Inch pounds
In-Reply-To: <B062EF84-08BE-4826-B8E2-7914950363F7@icloud.com>
References: <B062EF84-08BE-4826-B8E2-7914950363F7@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <0A96D1A7-694E-4EBE-9006-C259D507BF1D@talktalk.net>

That will be a torque - so you can measure as you describe with a 1 pound mass/force at 12" radius - or any other combination that multiplies out the same to 12 (12 pounds at 1", 2 pounds at 6" etc). If hanging a weight on, the steering shaft will need to be horizontal - so the angle of the column in the vehicle is unlikely to be suitable. You could use a spring balance.

On 24 May 2020 19:20:08 BST, Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
>Folk I?m  rebuilding a steering box.  The manual says to set the peg
>thrust adjustment so it takes 12 inch pounds at the rim of the steering
>wheel to over come the ?high spot? or resistance.
>I have always heard of ?inch pounds? as a measure of torque. If so,
>would it not be measured from the center of the steering wheel?  
>Lacking a inch pound torque wrench my plan was to hang a one lbs weight
>12 inches from the center of the wheel and make the adjustment until
>the weight can over come the resistance and falls.
>Is this what you think the author meant?
>Bob Nogueira 
>_______________________________________________
>
>Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/neiljsherry at talktalk.net

-- 
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From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Sun May 24 14:20:31 2020
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell)
Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 16:20:31 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Inch pounds
In-Reply-To: <B062EF84-08BE-4826-B8E2-7914950363F7@icloud.com>
References: <B062EF84-08BE-4826-B8E2-7914950363F7@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <4a5e50b9-c701-6e4d-479d-50746ab6e445@mebtel.net>

Maybe a fish scale would give you an approx estimate of 12 lbs pull at 
the rim?

On 5/24/2020 2:20 PM, Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk wrote:
> Folk I?m  rebuilding a steering box.  The manual says to set the peg thrust adjustment so it takes 12 inch pounds at the rim of the steering wheel to over come the ?high spot? or resistance.
> I have always heard of ?inch pounds? as a measure of torque. If so, would it not be measured from the center of the steering wheel?
> Lacking a inch pound torque wrench my plan was to hang a one lbs weight 12 inches from the center of the wheel and make the adjustment until the weight can over come the resistance and falls.
> Is this what you think the author meant?
> Bob Nogueira

-- 
Eric Russell
Mebane, NC


From neiljsherry at talktalk.net  Sun May 24 14:52:38 2020
From: neiljsherry at talktalk.net (neiljsherry at talktalk.net)
Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 21:52:38 +0100
Subject: [Shop-talk] Inch pounds
In-Reply-To: <4a5e50b9-c701-6e4d-479d-50746ab6e445@mebtel.net>
References: <B062EF84-08BE-4826-B8E2-7914950363F7@icloud.com>
 <4a5e50b9-c701-6e4d-479d-50746ab6e445@mebtel.net>
Message-ID: <7010737A-5814-48CA-BFCA-A61EC4ED6350@talktalk.net>

12 pounds at the rim will be way too much. If steering wheel is 15" diameter it will 7.5" radius and your 12 pounds will give 90 inch pounds, not 12!

On 24 May 2020 21:20:31 BST, Eric Russell via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
>Maybe a fish scale would give you an approx estimate of 12 lbs pull at 
>the rim?
>
>On 5/24/2020 2:20 PM, Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk wrote:
>> Folk I?m  rebuilding a steering box.  The manual says to set the peg
>thrust adjustment so it takes 12 inch pounds at the rim of the steering
>wheel to over come the ?high spot? or resistance.
>> I have always heard of ?inch pounds? as a measure of torque. If so,
>would it not be measured from the center of the steering wheel?
>> Lacking a inch pound torque wrench my plan was to hang a one lbs
>weight 12 inches from the center of the wheel and make the adjustment
>until the weight can over come the resistance and falls.
>> Is this what you think the author meant?
>> Bob Nogueira
>
>-- 
>Eric Russell
>Mebane, NC
>
>_______________________________________________
>
>Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/neiljsherry at talktalk.net

-- 
Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.
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From markmiller at threeboysfarm.com  Sun May 24 17:46:02 2020
From: markmiller at threeboysfarm.com (Mark Miller)
Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 16:46:02 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Overalls etc.
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9.1590343202.13842.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.9.1590343202.13842.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1876a9ee-b831-a246-d292-dfed247b886e@threeboysfarm.com>

I haven't tried their overalls but am a fan of Aramark's pants (and also 
super cheap but decent T shirts).? They always have some kind of deal 
going on (at the moment it is $25 off $75) and they have overalls on 
sale for $27.
https://shop.aramarkuniform.com/s-catalog-pants-jeans-denim-overalls?style=326&assort=catalog

You can also get flame resistant ones for appreciably more money if you 
so need.

Regards,

Mark Miller   707-490-5834
markmiller at threeboysfarm.com

> Subject: [Shop-talk] Overalls and Carhartt Discount
> Message-ID:	<OFAD16C10F.EE95E10C-ON85258572.003BE931-85258572.003CAD91 at mail.megageek.com>
> 	
> I just wanted to follow up on my pant's question.
>
> First, I went looking for Carhartt Overalls as that seemed to be the
> group's consensus.
>
> While Tractor Supply carries Carhartt, they don't have their overalls.
> Since I was there, I picked up a pair of their house brand overalls.
>
> Been given them the torture test and they are doing great.  I am in love
> with overalls for work pants.
>

From jniolon at att.net  Wed May 27 06:56:11 2020
From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 07:56:11 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] moving computer files
References: <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A.ref@johnslaptop>
Message-ID: <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A@johnslaptop>

shop content... I use my computer to buy tools.

had a few power surges / losses the other night and my desktop motherboard died in the process.  I?m looking at a refurbished dell unit with a solid state drive as a replacement.  I haven?t had to copy a full hard drive since you used a parallel cable and some software who?s name escapes me.   What?s the best way to do this from a HDD to a SSD nowadays ??
lt?s a small format machine and I don?t know if I can put my old hard drive in it to slave it for the copying.

Its also a windows 10 machine and my old machine was windows 7...  will win10 run all the software my 7 machine did ??  I?m getting so computer illiterate !!!

john
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From neiljsherry at talktalk.net  Wed May 27 07:02:25 2020
From: neiljsherry at talktalk.net (Neil Sherry)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 14:02:25 +0100
Subject: [Shop-talk] moving computer files
In-Reply-To: <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A@johnslaptop>
References: <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A.ref@johnslaptop>
 <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A@johnslaptop>
Message-ID: <03d801d63427$11f84320$35e8c960$@talktalk.net>

Depends how much stuff. These days, USB sticks are cheap and big. Or you could get an external drive and use it for backup. Or go on ebay and get a caddy to put the old hard drive in, and again use it to transfer files and in future for keeping backups. Make sure it?s USB 3 though.

 

From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of john niolon
Sent: 27 May 2020 13:56
To: shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] moving computer files

 

shop content... I use my computer to buy tools.

 

had a few power surges / losses the other night and my desktop motherboard died in the process.  I?m looking at a refurbished dell unit with a solid state drive as a replacement.  I haven?t had to copy a full hard drive since you used a parallel cable and some software who?s name escapes me.   What?s the best way to do this from a HDD to a SSD nowadays ??

lt?s a small format machine and I don?t know if I can put my old hard drive in it to slave it for the copying.

 

Its also a windows 10 machine and my old machine was windows 7...  will win10 run all the software my 7 machine did ??  I?m getting so computer illiterate !!!

 

john

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From patintexas at icloud.com  Wed May 27 07:18:59 2020
From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 08:18:59 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] moving computer files
In-Reply-To: <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A@johnslaptop>
References: <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A@johnslaptop>
Message-ID: <AB9760DB-97FD-4B04-9282-2F897600D7C8@icloud.com>

John,

I went through the exact same thing myself. It?s been several months & things are not complete yet. 

?They? say that all you need to do is transfer the files. It didn?t work for me. Plenty of user security problems that I haven?t gotten past. All software needed to be reinstalled. 

If there isn?t a place to connect your old drive inside you can use an external usb enclosure. They are cheap. 

If I had known the trouble I had, I would have taken it to a pro. 

I set my machine up to dual boot 7 & 10 so I could work while moving things over. 

I hadn?t  used 10 before, & I had a significant learning curve. 

Good luck. 

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne 
We support Habitat for Humanity


On May 27, 2020, at 7:57 AM, john niolon <jniolon at att.net> wrote:

?
shop content... I use my computer to buy tools.
 
had a few power surges / losses the other night and my desktop motherboard died in the process.  I?m looking at a refurbished dell unit with a solid state drive as a replacement.  I haven?t had to copy a full hard drive since you used a parallel cable and some software who?s name escapes me.   What?s the best way to do this from a HDD to a SSD nowadays ??
lt?s a small format machine and I don?t know if I can put my old hard drive in it to slave it for the copying.
 
Its also a windows 10 machine and my old machine was windows 7...  will win10 run all the software my 7 machine did ??  I?m getting so computer illiterate !!!
 
john
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

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From jnew at hazelden.ca  Wed May 27 07:23:54 2020
From: jnew at hazelden.ca (John P. New)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 09:23:54 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] moving computer files
In-Reply-To: <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A@johnslaptop>
References: <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A.ref@johnslaptop>
 <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A@johnslaptop>
Message-ID: <2011297.DZFDXkVle6@johnpc>

Hi John,

The easiest way to do this is to take off the outside of the computer's case and connect the old hard drive directly to the new motherboard with a SATA cable and an available power lead. It doesn't matter if there isn't room inside the computer for another hard drive because this will only be a temporary connection.

If you aren't comfortable doing this, then really the only way is with a hard drive enclosure, complete with its own power supply and USB port, into which you put your hard drive (which is just as much work as the above method with the downside of having to buy the enclosure).

If you want more specifics, contact me off-list and I can give you more direction.

John

On Wednesday, May 27, 2020 8:56:11 AM EDT john niolon wrote:
> shop content... I use my computer to buy tools.
> 
> had a few power surges / losses the other night and my desktop motherboard died in the process.  I?m looking at a refurbished dell unit with a solid state drive as a replacement.  I haven?t had to copy a full hard drive since you used a parallel cable and some software who?s name escapes me.   What?s the best way to do this from a HDD to a SSD nowadays ??
> lt?s a small format machine and I don?t know if I can put my old hard drive in it to slave it for the copying.
> 
> Its also a windows 10 machine and my old machine was windows 7...  will win10 run all the software my 7 machine did ??  I?m getting so computer illiterate !!!
> 
> john
> 





From bk13 at earthlink.net  Wed May 27 07:41:12 2020
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 06:41:12 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] moving computer files
In-Reply-To: <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A@johnslaptop>
References: <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A.ref@johnslaptop>
 <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A@johnslaptop>
Message-ID: <67766024-dab5-138f-bffc-97ff3b670961@earthlink.net>

I recommend an external docking station.? Super easy and you don't have 
to open anything up.? Tried to move my old Win 7 C: drive to the new Win 
10 computer and had trouble getting it recognized.? No problem with my 
data drive (I keep most of my data on a second hard drive in the 
computer).? Ended up getting a docking station and it was super easy.? 
The drive just plugs into to the docking station like a video game 
cartridge or 8-track tape.? Nothing to open up.

This is the one I got because I'm local to the store and wanted it fast:
https://www.frys.com/product/8937843

Look for USB 3 for speed.? After you copy the data to the computer, box 
up the old drive and save it as a backup.? If the Win 7 computer had 
problems, the drive is also potentially near the end of life, so it 
isn't worth risking your data.

The solid state drives are fantastic.? My new Win 10 computer boots in 
about 20 seconds.? I do have a second drive in it.? Solid state drives 
are small, so if you have lots of pictures or videos, you will probably 
need the additional space.? There are options to move the default 
folders for your files (documents, pictures, music, etc) to the second 
drive.

Brian

On 5/27/2020 5:56 AM, john niolon wrote:
> shop content... I use my computer to buy tools.
> had a few power surges / losses the other night and my desktop 
> motherboard died in the process.? I?m looking at a refurbished dell 
> unit with a solid state drive as a replacement.? I haven?t had to copy 
> a full hard drive since you used a parallel cable and some software 
> who?s name escapes me.?? What?s the best way to do this from a HDD to 
> a SSD nowadays ??
> lt?s a small format machine and I don?t know if I can put my old hard 
> drive in it to slave it for the copying.
> Its also a windows 10 machine and my old machine was windows 7...? 
> will win10 run all the software my 7 machine did ??? I?m getting so 
> computer illiterate !!!
> john
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net
>

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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Wed May 27 07:44:50 2020
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 09:44:50 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] moving computer files
In-Reply-To: <2011297.DZFDXkVle6@johnpc>
References: <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A.ref@johnslaptop>
 <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A@johnslaptop> <2011297.DZFDXkVle6@johnpc>
Message-ID: <005501d6342c$ff056f80$fd104e80$@gmail.com>

John - are you looking to:
(1) copy content [documents, pictures, scans, music, videos, etc only - because the new machine comes with an operating system you will use into the future, e.g. Windows 10] 

OR

(2) The content AND the operating system itself - because you intend on using the old operating system into the future [keeping in mind Windows 7 is no longer getting security patches, etc]? 

The approach you use should depend upon what you are trying to accomplish.  Also, how much content are you dealing with? Is there a backup you can load it from?

----------------
All the best,

Al Fuller

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of John P. New
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2020 9:24 AM
To: shop-talk at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] moving computer files

Hi John,

The easiest way to do this is to take off the outside of the computer's case and connect the old hard drive directly to the new motherboard with a SATA cable and an available power lead. It doesn't matter if there isn't room inside the computer for another hard drive because this will only be a temporary connection.

If you aren't comfortable doing this, then really the only way is with a hard drive enclosure, complete with its own power supply and USB port, into which you put your hard drive (which is just as much work as the above method with the downside of having to buy the enclosure).

If you want more specifics, contact me off-list and I can give you more direction.

John

On Wednesday, May 27, 2020 8:56:11 AM EDT john niolon wrote:
> shop content... I use my computer to buy tools.
> 
> had a few power surges / losses the other night and my desktop motherboard died in the process.  I?m looking at a refurbished dell unit with a solid state drive as a replacement.  I haven?t had to copy a full hard drive since you used a parallel cable and some software who?s name escapes me.   What?s the best way to do this from a HDD to a SSD nowadays ??
> lt?s a small format machine and I don?t know if I can put my old hard drive in it to slave it for the copying.
> 
> Its also a windows 10 machine and my old machine was windows 7...  will win10 run all the software my 7 machine did ??  I?m getting so computer illiterate !!!
> 
> john
> 




_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/alfuller194 at gmail.com



From jblair1948 at cox.net  Wed May 27 07:47:53 2020
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 09:47:53 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] moving computer files
In-Reply-To: <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A@johnslaptop>
References: <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A.ref@johnslaptop>
 <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A@johnslaptop>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20200527093752.049c5548@cox.net>

At 08:56 AM 5/27/2020, john niolon wrote:

 >had a few power surges / losses the other night and my desktop motherboard
 >died in the process.  I'm looking at a refurbished dell unit with a 
solid state drive
 >as a replacement.  I haven't had to copy a full hard drive since you used a
 >parallel cable and some software who's name escapes me.   What's 
the best way
 >to do this from a HDD to a SSD nowadays ??

John,

This is a real problem.  I don't envy you.  Last I had to rebuild a 
computer, it took
me about 4 days, to get the old software reloaded and everything configured.

The way MS loads programs now, in multiple places (directory) plus 
the registry vs
the old .ini files makes it impossible to move most programs from a 
functioning
drive to a 2nd drive.  You will have to reinstall most applications.

So the best way to make a clone of the original hard drive.

There was/is a program called GHOST that would let you make a clone of a drive.
The 1st generations required that the 2 drives (source and destination) be the
same size.  Later generations lifted that restriction as long as the 
destination was
equal to or greater than the source drive.

This used to be the best way to make a backup of your system and or set up a
new hard drive.

I've been looking for a good/recient version of GHOST to use to make a backup
of my working HD.  Everyonce in a while I'll spend an hour or so 
looking up GHOST
and or cloning a HD.  So far I haven't found much that I thought 
would do the job,
or it was more for a commercial environment and the cost is outragious.

If anyone has any ideas for a GHOST program or where to get it, please let us
know.

John




John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/morgan
Bricklin:     www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
      In God We Trust
      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction




-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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From ronnie.day at gmail.com  Wed May 27 07:49:01 2020
From: ronnie.day at gmail.com (Ronnie Day)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 08:49:01 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] moving computer files
In-Reply-To: <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A@johnslaptop>
References: <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A.ref@johnslaptop>
 <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A@johnslaptop>
Message-ID: <CAMHhs6fGS8Mhh_fFnLxi6d6_pLnp9Tg333jNwFUFD2Pr2FaR9w@mail.gmail.com>

First, of course, your data files are the most important things and unless
some got corrupted which is rare, they should be ok. You may be able to
physically install the HD in your new box, depending on space, or you can
put it in an external case, probably using USB3, which a new computer
should have. You can get kits to allow connecting bare (internal) drives
without a case. This (https://eshop.macsales.com/item/NewerTech/U3NV2SPATA/)
is a very useful gadget. Or you can get a drop-in drive dock for about the
same money.

I recently added a new, third SSD to a Win 7 desktop that I built several
years ago. I installed Win 10 on the new drive and reinstalled all of my
applications on it from scratch, leaving the original W7 boot SSD and data
HDs in place. It's all worked fine. While there are applications that
supposedly let you clone everything, I'm not sure that would work going
from W7 to W10, and in my experience you usually need the application
licence keys to get them to work, if they don't require an application
update to run on W10.

The first thing I'd do is do the setup on the new computer, then connect
your old HD to it and backup your data files, if they're not backed up
already. There should be plenty of info online, especially YouTube, on
doing what you need to do. Check out tom's Hardware (website) and Paul's
Hardware (YouTube).

HTH,
RD

On Wed, May 27, 2020 at 7:57 AM john niolon <jniolon at att.net> wrote:

> shop content... I use my computer to buy tools.
>
> had a few power surges / losses the other night and my desktop motherboard
> died in the process.  I?m looking at a refurbished dell unit with a solid
> state drive as a replacement.  I haven?t had to copy a full hard drive
> since you used a parallel cable and some software who?s name escapes me.
> What?s the best way to do this from a HDD to a SSD nowadays ??
> lt?s a small format machine and I don?t know if I can put my old hard
> drive in it to slave it for the copying.
>
> Its also a windows 10 machine and my old machine was windows 7...  will
> win10 run all the software my 7 machine did ??  I?m getting so computer
> illiterate !!!
>
> john
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ronnie.day at gmail.com
>
>
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From ronnie.day at gmail.com  Wed May 27 07:59:42 2020
From: ronnie.day at gmail.com (Ronnie Day)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 08:59:42 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] moving computer files
In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20200527093752.049c5548@cox.net>
References: <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A.ref@johnslaptop>
 <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A@johnslaptop>
 <6.2.5.6.1.20200527093752.049c5548@cox.net>
Message-ID: <CAMHhs6cq-jOD7ym+0T-WyArEdsr-duCiyr3-5h-onEssYEAPZw@mail.gmail.com>

Check out Paragon Software (https://www.paragon-software.com/) for current
utilities, especially for Windows.

On Wed, May 27, 2020 at 8:50 AM John T. Blair <jblair1948 at cox.net> wrote:

> At 08:56 AM 5/27/2020, john niolon wrote:
>
> >had a few power surges / losses the other night and my desktop motherboard
> >died in the process.  I'm looking at a refurbished dell unit with a solid
> state drive
> >as a replacement.  I haven't had to copy a full hard drive since you used
> a
> >parallel cable and some software who's name escapes me.   What's the best
> way
> >to do this from a HDD to a SSD nowadays ??
>
> John,
>
> This is a real problem.  I don't envy you.  Last I had to rebuild a
> computer, it took
> me about 4 days, to get the old software reloaded and everything
> configured.
>
> The way MS loads programs now, in multiple places (directory) plus the
> registry vs
> the old .ini files makes it impossible to move most programs from a
> functioning
> drive to a 2nd drive.  You will have to reinstall most applications.
>
> So the best way to make a clone of the original hard drive.
>
> There was/is a program called GHOST that would let you make a clone of a
> drive.
> The 1st generations required that the 2 drives (source and destination) be
> the
> same size.  Later generations lifted that restriction as long as the
> destination was
> equal to or greater than the source drive.
>
> This used to be the best way to make a backup of your system and or set up
> a
> new hard drive.
>
> I've been looking for a good/recient version of GHOST to use to make a
> backup
> of my working HD.  Everyonce in a while I'll spend an hour or so looking
> up GHOST
> and or cloning a HD.  So far I haven't found much that I thought would do
> the job,
> or it was more for a commercial environment and the cost is outragious.
>
> If anyone has any ideas for a GHOST program or where to get it, please let
> us
> know.
>
> John
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
> [image: Avast logo] <https://www.avast.com/antivirus>
>
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/antivirus>
>
> <#m_-4145555504916061659_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
> John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
> Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229
>
>           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
>      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
>                        65 Rambler Classic
>
> Morgan:    www.team.net/morgan
> Bricklin:     www.bricklin.org
>
> If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
> If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!
>
> From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
>      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
>      In God We Trust
>      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
>                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org  Wed May 27 09:54:15 2020
From: shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org (Ian McFetridge)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 11:54:15 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] moving computer files
In-Reply-To: <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A@johnslaptop>
References: <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A.ref@johnslaptop>
 <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A@johnslaptop>
Message-ID: <CAFnfnRWsL-p7B5XFw8acJtG9H9s6pQi6a=1x+vZXpQnF3tTjYQ@mail.gmail.com>

Is it a SATA drive or a parallel (many pin drive)?
I've used these with good success.  Plug into drive on one end and into USB
of new computer on the other end.  They're also available for parallel.
 If you're near Philly, PA I have one you can use.
  StarTech.com SATA to USB Cable - USB 3.0 to 2.5? SATA III Hard Drive
Adapter - External Converter for SSD/HDD Data Transfer (USB3S2SAT3CB), Black
by Amazon.com
Learn more:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_vYOZEbW158KKX


On Wed, May 27, 2020 at 8:57 AM john niolon <jniolon at att.net> wrote:

> shop content... I use my computer to buy tools.
>
> had a few power surges / losses the other night and my desktop motherboard
> died in the process.  I?m looking at a refurbished dell unit with a solid
> state drive as a replacement.  I haven?t had to copy a full hard drive
> since you used a parallel cable and some software who?s name escapes me.
> What?s the best way to do this from a HDD to a SSD nowadays ??
> lt?s a small format machine and I don?t know if I can put my old hard
> drive in it to slave it for the copying.
>
> Its also a windows 10 machine and my old machine was windows 7...  will
> win10 run all the software my 7 machine did ??  I?m getting so computer
> illiterate !!!
>
> john
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org
>
>
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From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Wed May 27 11:01:24 2020
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 13:01:24 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] moving computer files
In-Reply-To: <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A@johnslaptop>
References: <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A.ref@johnslaptop>
 <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A@johnslaptop>
Message-ID: <C632EA0A-CCB5-4A65-B312-7E8CFE57384B@snet.net>

The free versions of this work very well for me. 
https://www.business.com/reviews/aomei/

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 27, 2020, at 8:56 AM, john niolon <jniolon at att.net> wrote:
> 
> shop content... I use my computer to buy tools.
>  
> had a few power surges / losses the other night and my desktop motherboard died in the process.  I?m looking at a refurbished dell unit with a solid state drive as a replacement.  I haven?t had to copy a full hard drive since you used a parallel cable and some software who?s name escapes me.   What?s the best way to do this from a HDD to a SSD nowadays ??
> lt?s a small format machine and I don?t know if I can put my old hard drive in it to slave it for the copying.
>  
> Its also a windows 10 machine and my old machine was windows 7...  will win10 run all the software my 7 machine did ??  I?m getting so computer illiterate !!!
>  
> john
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/james.f.juhas at snet.net
> 
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From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Wed May 27 11:01:24 2020
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 13:01:24 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] moving computer files
In-Reply-To: <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A@johnslaptop>
References: <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A.ref@johnslaptop>
 <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A@johnslaptop>
Message-ID: <C632EA0A-CCB5-4A65-B312-7E8CFE57384B@snet.net>

The free versions of this work very well for me. 
https://www.business.com/reviews/aomei/

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 27, 2020, at 8:56 AM, john niolon <jniolon at att.net> wrote:
> 
> shop content... I use my computer to buy tools.
>  
> had a few power surges / losses the other night and my desktop motherboard died in the process.  I?m looking at a refurbished dell unit with a solid state drive as a replacement.  I haven?t had to copy a full hard drive since you used a parallel cable and some software who?s name escapes me.   What?s the best way to do this from a HDD to a SSD nowadays ??
> lt?s a small format machine and I don?t know if I can put my old hard drive in it to slave it for the copying.
>  
> Its also a windows 10 machine and my old machine was windows 7...  will win10 run all the software my 7 machine did ??  I?m getting so computer illiterate !!!
>  
> john
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/james.f.juhas at snet.net
> 
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From dirtbeard at gmail.com  Wed May 27 11:28:56 2020
From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 10:28:56 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] moving computer files
In-Reply-To: <C632EA0A-CCB5-4A65-B312-7E8CFE57384B@snet.net>
References: <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A.ref@johnslaptop>
 <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A@johnslaptop>
 <C632EA0A-CCB5-4A65-B312-7E8CFE57384B@snet.net>
Message-ID: <CAG1pxga=-USfEaYNbPjkfNi4rWiOc6DNx85Xs9-VR+tL9FUu6g@mail.gmail.com>

Hi all,

 It may already have been said, but I would recommend moving all file
storage to One Drive or Google Drive, or some other cloud storage.

   1. The next time you have a hardware failure, you would not be going
   through any of this trouble.
   2. It is encrypted, safe and secure.
   3. It is available from any device that you own.
   4. It is backed-up.
   5. For smaller storage, it is free, for larger storage, it is very
   economical.

For what it is worth, I am an IT professional with over 30 years experience
and currently am the CIO of a 70K person organization. We are using cloud
storage for our enterprise operations for the reasons I stated above.

I also use One Drive for all of my personal data storage as it integrates
so well with O365.

Google Drive did perform a little faster in the last benchmarks we did, but
if you are in a MS environment, One Drive is very hard to beat.

best,

doug

On Wed, May 27, 2020 at 10:03 AM Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas at snet.net> wrote:

> The free versions of this work very well for me.
> https://www.business.com/reviews/aomei/
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 27, 2020, at 8:56 AM, john niolon <jniolon at att.net> wrote:
>
> shop content... I use my computer to buy tools.
>
> had a few power surges / losses the other night and my desktop motherboard
> died in the process.  I?m looking at a refurbished dell unit with a solid
> state drive as a replacement.  I haven?t had to copy a full hard drive
> since you used a parallel cable and some software who?s name escapes me.
> What?s the best way to do this from a HDD to a SSD nowadays ??
> lt?s a small format machine and I don?t know if I can put my old hard
> drive in it to slave it for the copying.
>
> Its also a windows 10 machine and my old machine was windows 7...  will
> win10 run all the software my 7 machine did ??  I?m getting so computer
> illiterate !!!
>
> john
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/james.f.juhas at snet.net
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com
>
>
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From fishplate at gmail.com  Wed May 27 16:30:25 2020
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 18:30:25 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] moving computer files
In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20200527093752.049c5548@cox.net>
References: <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A.ref@johnslaptop>
 <6C029B849F884A9CB10A4A72864BE50A@johnslaptop>
 <6.2.5.6.1.20200527093752.049c5548@cox.net>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CN6Ze-m6HomskQQpYRrXMsT53jHtr_=90xDcaEgeaAanw@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, May 27, 2020 at 9:50 AM John T. Blair <jblair1948 at cox.net> wrote:

> At 08:56 AM 5/27/2020, john niolon wrote:
> If anyone has any ideas for a GHOST program or where to get it, please let
> us
> know.
>

I use a free version of Macrium Reflect

https://www.macrium.com/reflectfree
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From dirtbeard at gmail.com  Sun May 31 07:42:30 2020
From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard)
Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 06:42:30 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Favorite tools
Message-ID: <CAG1pxgZBAFeUR=acTOQK522VYKcG=Uga+qj_n7m5LrF7v+EG5A@mail.gmail.com>

Hi guys,

Since the COVID era started, I like many others have been spending more
time at home and in the garage (my shop).

It has given me some time to think about things that perhaps I would not
have thought about, but one is how much I enjoy a good, useful tool.

I thought I would start posting my favorite tool of the day or week just to
share what I thought were good acquisitions.

I do mostly motorcycle and automobile work on my own vehicles. I try to do
everything myself that I can.

I have been riding motorcycles since I was a kid and have been changing my
own tires all those years on the garage floor with a couple 4x4's and some
good tire irons. It worked, but it always involved a lot of sweating and
swearing and busted knuckles and sometimes hours to break the beads and
remove and install the tires. It also required a lot of bending over as
everything was on the floor.

Last year I bought a US-made No Mar Classic HD tire changer and used it for
the first time time the last two weekends.

What a life enhancing experience that was! I should have bought one 20 or
30 years ago. I am attaching links to a couple photos of it:

The first one is breaking the bead on a Harley front tire--it is at waist
height and literally can be done with one hand:
https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=446D39C8B1E43758&id=446D39C8B1E43758%21166808&parId=446D39C8B1E43758%21166807&o=OneUp


The second one is just finishing mounting the rear tire:
https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=446D39C8B1E43758&id=446D39C8B1E43758%21166809&parId=446D39C8B1E43758%21166807&o=OneUp


Once you mount them you should balance them, so here is a picture of a
US-made static balancer that I just use on jack stands. I have had this for
a very long time and it works great:
https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=446D39C8B1E43758&id=446D39C8B1E43758%21166812&parId=446D39C8B1E43758%21166807&o=OneUp


Both the tire changer and the balancer are joys to use.

I will post a few more in the next few days and would encourage all of you
to do so to share the knowledge/experience that this group possesses.

best,

doug
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From dirtbeard at gmail.com  Sun May 31 08:08:41 2020
From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard)
Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 07:08:41 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Favorite tools
In-Reply-To: <CAG1pxgZBAFeUR=acTOQK522VYKcG=Uga+qj_n7m5LrF7v+EG5A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAG1pxgZBAFeUR=acTOQK522VYKcG=Uga+qj_n7m5LrF7v+EG5A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAG1pxgZrk97uCFdJRVgW7Z4jkt4RYCkMDw8bLSZ_yCpQmC157g@mail.gmail.com>

Forgot to say, that over those many years of changing tires on the floor
with tire irons, I had nicked, scratched, and scraped my aluminum wheels
many times. It is almost impossible not to do so. They were rather a mess...

I hand sanded and then buffed out the wheels on the Sportster after
removing the old tires and before mounting the new one, to remove 20 years
of scratches from 90K miles of riding and tire changing (some bike tires
only last 3-4K miles, so I have done many changes on this bie in those 90K+
miles).

Anyway, I was able to remove and replace the front and rear tires on the
2001 Sportster without a "mar" on the wheels. The No Mar tool design
ensure that at no time does any metal contact the wheels.

It also took just a few minutes to break the bead, remove, and reinstall
the tires.

Here is a video of a guy changing a MT90 on a Harley wheel:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZNzrYGis_M

A great investment that I only wish I had done decades ago...

best,

doug

On Sun, May 31, 2020 at 6:42 AM old dirtbeard <dirtbeard at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi guys,
>
> Since the COVID era started, I like many others have been spending more
> time at home and in the garage (my shop).
>
> It has given me some time to think about things that perhaps I would not
> have thought about, but one is how much I enjoy a good, useful tool.
>
> I thought I would start posting my favorite tool of the day or week just
> to share what I thought were good acquisitions.
>
> I do mostly motorcycle and automobile work on my own vehicles. I try to do
> everything myself that I can.
>
> I have been riding motorcycles since I was a kid and have been changing my
> own tires all those years on the garage floor with a couple 4x4's and some
> good tire irons. It worked, but it always involved a lot of sweating and
> swearing and busted knuckles and sometimes hours to break the beads and
> remove and install the tires. It also required a lot of bending over as
> everything was on the floor.
>
> Last year I bought a US-made No Mar Classic HD tire changer and used it
> for the first time time the last two weekends.
>
> What a life enhancing experience that was! I should have bought one 20 or
> 30 years ago. I am attaching links to a couple photos of it:
>
> The first one is breaking the bead on a Harley front tire--it is at waist
> height and literally can be done with one hand:
>
> https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=446D39C8B1E43758&id=446D39C8B1E43758%21166808&parId=446D39C8B1E43758%21166807&o=OneUp
>
>
> The second one is just finishing mounting the rear tire:
>
> https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=446D39C8B1E43758&id=446D39C8B1E43758%21166809&parId=446D39C8B1E43758%21166807&o=OneUp
>
>
> Once you mount them you should balance them, so here is a picture of a
> US-made static balancer that I just use on jack stands. I have had this for
> a very long time and it works great:
>
> https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=446D39C8B1E43758&id=446D39C8B1E43758%21166812&parId=446D39C8B1E43758%21166807&o=OneUp
>
>
> Both the tire changer and the balancer are joys to use.
>
> I will post a few more in the next few days and would encourage all of you
> to do so to share the knowledge/experience that this group possesses.
>
> best,
>
> doug
>
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From eric at megageek.com  Sun May 31 13:07:04 2020
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 15:07:04 -0400
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop air line pressure
Message-ID: <OF570645E6.13C952F7-ON85258579.0068B144-85258579.00690496@mail.megageek.com>

Quick question,

I think that my cheapie HF tools are failing because my air lne presure is 
too high (about 135 psi for the whole shop.)

Do you guys keep all the lines at 90 psi, or something else?  I have a 
monster compressor and I keep one line at 90spi (when I use my nailers) 
but I never had a problem before with the other tools failing.

What do you guys run your air hammers/die grinders/impact guns/etc at?

Thanks.


"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?
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From ronnie.day at gmail.com  Sun May 31 13:17:06 2020
From: ronnie.day at gmail.com (Ronnie Day)
Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 14:17:06 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop air line pressure
In-Reply-To: <OF570645E6.13C952F7-ON85258579.0068B144-85258579.00690496@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF570645E6.13C952F7-ON85258579.0068B144-85258579.00690496@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <CAMHhs6e12iULZ4_aW4AJ7x9J8EAqR_OZv4nETHax8nRxVA5=2g@mail.gmail.com>

AFAIK, all tools have a recommended range they're designed to work at. I've
always had a regulator at each connection. These days many tools have them
built-in.

On Sun, May 31, 2020 at 2:08 PM <eric at megageek.com> wrote:

> Quick question,
>
> I think that my cheapie HF tools are failing because my air lne presure is
> too high (about 135 psi for the whole shop.)
>
> Do you guys keep all the lines at 90 psi, or something else?  I have a
> monster compressor and I keep one line at 90spi (when I use my nailers) but
> I never had a problem before with the other tools failing.
>
> What do you guys run your air hammers/die grinders/impact guns/etc at?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt? _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ronnie.day at gmail.com
>
>
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From dirtbeard at gmail.com  Sun May 31 14:04:11 2020
From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard)
Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 13:04:11 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop air line pressure
In-Reply-To: <CAMHhs6e12iULZ4_aW4AJ7x9J8EAqR_OZv4nETHax8nRxVA5=2g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <OF570645E6.13C952F7-ON85258579.0068B144-85258579.00690496@mail.megageek.com>
 <CAMHhs6e12iULZ4_aW4AJ7x9J8EAqR_OZv4nETHax8nRxVA5=2g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAG1pxgZUB1TV4pRaSwvYY7pmbZ6N8ysjDhtNJ73WraH75nEXtA@mail.gmail.com>

I used to run my airlines all at 125 psi as it provided snappy performance,
but I had hose reel fittings (the rotating style) start to leak. Once I
replaced most of them, I used  a pretty good 1/2" regulator to set the
lines to 75 psi and have not had any problems.

I think that most all air tools call for a 90 psi max running pressure
(e.g., Aircat, IR, etc.).

75 psi works fine for most things, and if I need to boost it for a
sandblaster or or something, I do it on the exception basis.

best,

doug

On Sun, May 31, 2020 at 12:18 PM Ronnie Day <ronnie.day at gmail.com> wrote:

> AFAIK, all tools have a recommended range they're designed to work at.
> I've always had a regulator at each connection. These days many tools have
> them built-in.
>
> On Sun, May 31, 2020 at 2:08 PM <eric at megageek.com> wrote:
>
>> Quick question,
>>
>> I think that my cheapie HF tools are failing because my air lne presure
>> is too high (about 135 psi for the whole shop.)
>>
>> Do you guys keep all the lines at 90 psi, or something else?  I have a
>> monster compressor and I keep one line at 90spi (when I use my nailers) but
>> I never had a problem before with the other tools failing.
>>
>> What do you guys run your air hammers/die grinders/impact guns/etc at?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>>
>> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
>> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
>> Waldo Emerson
>> -Who is John Galt? _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ronnie.day at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com
>
>
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From mark at bradakis.com  Sun May 31 14:11:01 2020
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 14:11:01 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop air line pressure
In-Reply-To: <OF570645E6.13C952F7-ON85258579.0068B144-85258579.00690496@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF570645E6.13C952F7-ON85258579.0068B144-85258579.00690496@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <7051603d-8a2e-e5f5-2a35-b070b0486a7f@bradakis.com>

On 5/31/20 1:07 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote:
> Quick question,
>
> I think that my cheapie HF tools are failing because my air lne 
> presure is too high (about 135 psi for the whole shop.)


One explanation for your cheapie HF tools failing is they are cheapie HF 
tools.? Meticulously hand crafted from the finest Chinese dung-forged steel.

Back when I was renting a 30 x 30 foot shop to work on various Triumph 
projects, I had a big filter first in line from the compressor output.? 
It put out about 175 psi at full chat.? The filter was followed by a tee 
with the leg basically unused, the run went to a regulator set to 120 
psi.? That was enough for most tools.? If something needed more I'd plug 
it into the tee before the regulator to get the max available pressure 
to it.

mjb.



From ronald.griffing at comcast.net  Sun May 31 17:15:20 2020
From: ronald.griffing at comcast.net (RONALD GRIFFING)
Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 16:15:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop air line pressure
In-Reply-To: <OF570645E6.13C952F7-ON85258579.0068B144-85258579.00690496@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF570645E6.13C952F7-ON85258579.0068B144-85258579.00690496@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <448987337.45695.1590966920964@connect.xfinity.com>

As I recall, most HF tools are rated at 90 psi. That is what I run mine at with an oil fogger at the wall drop.

> On May 31, 2020 at 12:07 PM eric at megageek.com wrote:
> 
>     Quick question,
> 
>     I think that my cheapie HF tools are failing because my air lne presure is too high (about 135 psi for the whole shop.)
> 
>     Do you guys keep all the lines at 90 psi, or something else?  I have a monster compressor and I keep one line at 90spi (when I use my nailers) but I never had a problem before with the other tools failing.
> 
>     What do you guys run your air hammers/die grinders/impact guns/etc at?
> 
>     Thanks.
> 
> 
>     "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson
>     -Who is John Galt? _______________________________________________
> 
>     Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation $12.96
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ronald.griffing at comcast.net
> 
> 


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From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Sun May 31 17:23:12 2020
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 18:23:12 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop air line pressure
In-Reply-To: <OF570645E6.13C952F7-ON85258579.0068B144-85258579.00690496@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF570645E6.13C952F7-ON85258579.0068B144-85258579.00690496@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <FC1F60A9-AB50-46D5-9BA4-5C4C40BE4F0A@gmail.com>



> On May 31, 2020, at 14:07, eric at megageek.com wrote:
> 
> Quick question, 
> 
> I think that my cheapie HF tools are failing because my air lne presure is too high (about 135 psi for the whole shop.) 
> 
> Do you guys keep all the lines at 90 psi, or something else?  I have a monster compressor and I keep one line at 90spi (when I use my nailers) but I never had a problem before with the other tools failing. 

The generally preferred practice is to have lines at storage pressure, with a regulator at each take off. Provides a small amount of storage, and higher flow rate at the outlets.   Also better for acomidating tools with different demands.   
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From dirtbeard at gmail.com  Sun May 31 20:37:39 2020
From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard)
Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2020 02:37:39 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop air line pressure
In-Reply-To: <FC1F60A9-AB50-46D5-9BA4-5C4C40BE4F0A@gmail.com>
References: <OF570645E6.13C952F7-ON85258579.0068B144-85258579.00690496@mail.megageek.com>,
 <FC1F60A9-AB50-46D5-9BA4-5C4C40BE4F0A@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BYAPR04MB60530425E3081B8B8B5F199DAB8A0@BYAPR04MB6053.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

I could see where this would be optimal, but that would be seven separate regulators for my garage.

Best,

des
(mobile)

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