From eric at megageek.com Thu Jul 2 16:00:49 2020 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2020 18:00:49 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Studded tires Message-ID: OK, so I have a zero turn mower that is my lawn grass cutter and winter snowplow. The problem is that it gets poor tractor at both. I use snow chains in the winter and that helps, but they don't last long as they take a pounding. I currently have turf tires on there for the mowing (and I put the chains on them as well.) I do have a set of ag tires for it, but the chains don't work on it and it doesn't get much better traction on turf than the turf tires. So, I was wondering about getting/making a set of studded tires for the mower to leave year on. Here are my questions... 1-is it better to make a set or buy them (either way I need to buy new tires.) 2-If I make them, what type of screw head is best? 3-How do they compare to chains for traction and abuse to asphalt? Thanks. "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson -Who is John Galt? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From patintexas at icloud.com Thu Jul 2 16:05:20 2020 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2020 17:05:20 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Studded tires In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: It?s been decades since I had anything to do with studded tires (?60s) but I can?t see how they would help on turf. Someone else will have to give their opinion on snow use. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jul 2, 2020, at 5:01 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote: ?OK, so I have a zero turn mower that is my lawn grass cutter and winter snowplow. The problem is that it gets poor tractor at both. I use snow chains in the winter and that helps, but they don't last long as they take a pounding. I currently have turf tires on there for the mowing (and I put the chains on them as well.) I do have a set of ag tires for it, but the chains don't work on it and it doesn't get much better traction on turf than the turf tires. So, I was wondering about getting/making a set of studded tires for the mower to leave year on. Here are my questions... 1-is it better to make a set or buy them (either way I need to buy new tires.) 2-If I make them, what type of screw head is best? 3-How do they compare to chains for traction and abuse to asphalt? Thanks. "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eric at megageek.com Sun Jul 5 02:42:21 2020 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2020 04:42:21 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Studded tire update Message-ID: OK, after some great responses here (thanks guys) I decided to try and find another tire tread pattern to try on the mower first. Again, the requirements are good turf traction and good snow traction. I don't care if they rip up the lawn a little. In my research, I found a lot of people talking about the Carlisle at1 (or ata) mower tire. But I was wondering if there was an ATV tire that was better. Anyone have any recommendations? Thanks. "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson -Who is John Galt? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ejrussell at mebtel.net Sun Jul 5 04:37:25 2020 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell) Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2020 06:37:25 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Studded tire update In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8354fa95-4ae8-570d-dc79-218fc1215b2d@mebtel.net> What about weight? Not the weight we can blame on the quarantine but adding weight to the mower? Especially for snow removal. Eric Russell Mebane, NC On 7/5/2020 4:42 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote: > Again, the requirements are good turf traction and good snow traction. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eric at megageek.com Sun Jul 5 06:24:45 2020 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2020 08:24:45 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Studded tire update In-Reply-To: <8354fa95-4ae8-570d-dc79-218fc1215b2d@mebtel.net> References: <8354fa95-4ae8-570d-dc79-218fc1215b2d@mebtel.net> Message-ID: Eric asks about adding weight. This mower is a weird design. It's two hydrostatic drive wheels with one rear caster wheel (tripod). The mower deck and the plow hang off the front. The weights seem to have no effect on traction for the plow or the cutter. There are springs that hold up the mower deck's rear, and they do make a difference. Here is a video of it with the snow thrower on it... https://www.megageek.com/photo/photoa~1.nsf/a7ffeab012bbfb5b85256eb1007ca7f6/a5873018474f78b9852580790049cf96?OpenDocument&Highlight=0,killdozer All the weight is on the drive wheels already. I do have plate weights for the back, but they are just for when I put on the snow thrower. Without the weights, instead of lifting the thrower, the rear end lifts off the ground. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eugene.abbondelo at gmail.com Sun Jul 5 18:21:13 2020 From: eugene.abbondelo at gmail.com (Gene Abbondelo) Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2020 20:21:13 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Mosquito problem in Central Maryland Message-ID: My garage is separated from my house and is in a shady area. I have a big problem with mosquitos in the garage as the area is humid and I'm getting eaten alive. Any suggestions on getting rid of the problem. Are there spray "bombs" that would work similar to the kind people use for flea problems or is this a problem better left to a pest control company? Thanks for any advice, Gene -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Sun Jul 5 18:54:26 2020 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2020 20:54:26 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Mosquito problem in Central Maryland In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Having grown up chasing the mosquito-fogging truck, I feel qualified to comment... The best way to get rid of mosquitoes is to get rid of their living/breeding areas - principally standing water. That can, of course, be easier said than done. It might not be on property you can access, or other reasons you can't drain the neighbor's pond. There are commercial solutions that attract them by generating CO2 (with a propane tank) and then capturing them and killing them. https://www.amazon.com/Mosquito-Magnet-MM4200B-Patriot-Plus/dp/B07CLT5D6Z Bug zappers work well sometimes, but locate it near - but not at - the place you are working or sitting. Like the CO2 devices, they attract the mosquitoes, and you don't want to bring them toward you, you just want to clear your local area. We have a commercial service here that's part of a chain. I've never used them, but they seem to use a combination of methods including foggers and chemical sprays to solve the problem. Not sure if it's any more effective than anything you could do yourself. Here's a NYT article that has other suggestions https://www.amazon.com/Mosquito-Magnet-MM4200B-Patriot-Plus/dp/B07CLT5D6Z?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_6 ...including these coils, which I hadn't seen in years. We used to go to the drive-in movie and burn one of these in a pie pan on the dashboard. Good times... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LCHVCJ8/ FWIW, we had a wet winter, which has led to an abundance of skeeters. My misspent youth in the cloud behind the fogging truck may be responsible for the fact that I only get bit about 10% of what the rest of my family suffers. Good luck! Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. On Sun, Jul 5, 2020 at 8:21 PM Gene Abbondelo wrote: > > My garage is separated from my house and is in a shady area. I have a big problem with mosquitos in the garage as the area is humid and I'm getting eaten alive. > > Any suggestions on getting rid of the problem. Are there spray "bombs" that would work similar to the kind people use for flea problems or is this a problem better left to a pest control company? > > Thanks for any advice, > > Gene > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate at gmail.com > From 1789alpine at gmail.com Sun Jul 5 19:03:56 2020 From: 1789alpine at gmail.com (Jim Stone) Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2020 21:03:56 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Mosquito problem in Central Maryland In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8EB70C12-90BF-4851-99B0-EB729FD34CC7@gmail.com> The Wirecutter.com (owned by the NY Times) has a good review of mosquito repellers: https://www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/reviews/mosquito-control-gear/. We recently bought one of the Thermacell units and it does seem to do a good job of controlling them within a radius of about 15 feet. It won?t kill or prevent them, but is a pretty good way of keeping them at bay. And, as Jeff noted, they say the old fashioned coils do a pretty good job, too. > On Jul 5, 2020, at 8:54 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > > https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LCHVCJ8/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org Sun Jul 5 20:05:49 2020 From: shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org (Ian McFetridge) Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2020 22:05:49 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Mosquito problem in Central Maryland In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: We have a light trap that also uses some bait packets. It certainly gets filled, but it doesn?t seem to draw the mosquitos out of places (like garage). The only thing I?ve found that works in the garage is a fan (they are weak fliers) and DEET on me. Best, Ian On Sun, Jul 5, 2020 at 8:21 PM Gene Abbondelo > wrote: > > > > My garage is separated from my house and is in a shady area. I have a > big problem with mosquitos in the garage as the area is humid and I'm > getting eaten alive. > > > > Any suggestions on getting rid of the problem. Are there spray "bombs" > that would work similar to the kind people use for flea problems or is this > a problem better left to a pest control company? > > > > Thanks for any advice, > > > > Gene > > _______________________________________________ > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jamesf at groupwbench.org Sun Jul 5 20:46:32 2020 From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin) Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2020 22:46:32 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Mosquito problem in Central Maryland In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Can you get a screen for the door? There are magnetic ones that re-cling after you pass through. As for bug zappers, they kill far more beneficial bugs than mosquitoes; you'd be better off with a couple of mosquito magnets but the propane they use to generate CO2 can get expensive. Our community will spray our property but it's temporary, and if you live in a swamp, ineffective. Good luck, I feel your pain. jim > On Jul 5, 2020, at 8:21 PM, Gene Abbondelo wrote: > > My garage is separated from my house and is in a shady area. I have a big problem with mosquitos in the garage as the area is humid and I'm getting eaten alive. > > Any suggestions on getting rid of the problem. Are there spray "bombs" that would work similar to the kind people use for flea problems or is this a problem better left to a pest control company? > > Thanks for any advice, > > Gene > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org > From phoenix722 at comcast.net Sun Jul 5 21:36:31 2020 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair) Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2020 20:36:31 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Mosquito problem in Central Maryland In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0bc5beba-f02b-c335-7ef5-67c9ccac075e@comcast.net> I read a paper once where some professor had captured a zillion bugs with a zapper and counted them by species (this is why you have graduate students!).? Turned out something like 3% were mosquitoes. Mike On 7/5/2020 7:46 PM, Jim Franklin wrote: > Can you get a screen for the door? There are magnetic ones that re-cling after you pass through. > > As for bug zappers, they kill far more beneficial bugs than mosquitoes; you'd be better off with a couple of mosquito magnets but the propane they use to generate CO2 can get expensive. > > Our community will spray our property but it's temporary, and if you live in a swamp, ineffective. > > Good luck, I feel your pain. > > jim > >> On Jul 5, 2020, at 8:21 PM, Gene Abbondelo wrote: >> >> My garage is separated from my house and is in a shady area. I have a big problem with mosquitos in the garage as the area is humid and I'm getting eaten alive. >> >> Any suggestions on getting rid of the problem. Are there spray "bombs" that would work similar to the kind people use for flea problems or is this a problem better left to a pest control company? >> >> Thanks for any advice, >> >> Gene >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org >> > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/phoenix722 at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Mon Jul 6 05:45:53 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2020 11:45:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] Mosquito problem in Central Maryland In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2080011656.1233261.1594035953744@mail.yahoo.com> If you have mosquitoes you have standing water somewhere.? They can breed in as little as a cup of water but they can't breed in humidity alone.? I had a terrible mosquito problem.? I guessed it was from the drain pipe from the driveway.? It was a corrugated plastic pipe and there was not much pitch so I figured I had some low spots that retained water. I dug this pipe up (about 20 ft) and replaced it with rigid PVC taking care there was at least a little pitch all along the length.? This took about a weekend due to the fact that I am not as young as I used to be.But the result is I see very few if any mosquitoes these days.? It was a fair amount of work but well worth it. So check for any drainage pipes and investigate. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Gene Abbondelo To: Shop-talk at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Jul 5, 2020 7:21 pm Subject: [Shop-talk] Mosquito problem in Central Maryland My garage is separated from my house and is in a shady area.? I have a big problem with mosquitos in the garage as the area is humid and I'm getting eaten alive. Any suggestions on getting rid of the problem.? Are there spray "bombs" that would work similar to the kind people use for flea problems or is this a problem better left to a pest control company? Thanks for any advice, Gene?_______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eric at megageek.com Mon Jul 6 07:08:46 2020 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2020 09:08:46 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Mosquito problem in Central Maryland In-Reply-To: <2080011656.1233261.1594035953744@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2080011656.1233261.1594035953744@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Old tires are another vector of mosquito breading, so make sure you don't have any of them. If you have ponds or lakes on your property (or nearby) call the local ag extension office. In my county, they put fish in any pond/lake (on a regular basis) that eat the larva for free. Once they know about a body of water, them put the lake on a routine stocking schedule. "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson -Who is John Galt? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ejrussell at mebtel.net Mon Jul 6 07:39:21 2020 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell) Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2020 09:39:21 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Mosquito problem in Central Maryland In-Reply-To: References: <2080011656.1233261.1594035953744@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: What do the fish usually charge for eating larvae...? EjR On 7/6/2020 9:08 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote: > they put fish in any pond/lake that eat the larva for free. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Mon Jul 6 07:53:34 2020 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2020 07:53:34 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Mosquito problem in Central Maryland In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Too funny.? So I get home from work ( I work 10pm to 6 am), fuss about with stuff, and get to Team Net email.? Sandwiched between two of these shop-talk mosquito messages is a notice of an automatically deleted spam email, with the subject of "Subject:? Get rid of mosquitos once and for all!" Maybe they do know something about these bugs in West Bengal, India, where the spam originated. mjb. From tvacc at lotusowners.com Mon Jul 6 10:33:24 2020 From: tvacc at lotusowners.com (Tony Vaccaro) Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2020 12:33:24 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Mosquito problem in Central Maryland In-Reply-To: References: <2080011656.1233261.1594035953744@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <020301d653b3$2b7927a0$826b76e0$@lotusowners.com> They do sell pieces of equipment that mimic a full size animal that attracts mosquitos and kills them. They usually run a few hundred dollars to four hundred dollars What they do is kill off the female population usually within a ? acre of the machine. I understand it works very well but I have never bought one. Do a search on Mosquito Magnet. I am surprised no one has mentioned this already. Tony V www.lotusowners.com www.lotusltd.com From: Shop-talk On Behalf Of eric at megageek.com Sent: Monday, July 06, 2020 9:09 AM To: Shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Mosquito problem in Central Maryland Old tires are another vector of mosquito breading, so make sure you don't have any of them. If you have ponds or lakes on your property (or nearby) call the local ag extension office. In my county, they put fish in any pond/lake (on a regular basis) that eat the larva for free. Once they know about a body of water, them put the lake on a routine stocking schedule. "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson -Who is John Galt? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From peterwmurray at gmail.com Mon Jul 6 13:21:08 2020 From: peterwmurray at gmail.com (Peter Murray) Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2020 15:21:08 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Mosquito problem in Central Maryland In-Reply-To: <020301d653b3$2b7927a0$826b76e0$@lotusowners.com> References: <2080011656.1233261.1594035953744@mail.yahoo.com> <020301d653b3$2b7927a0$826b76e0$@lotusowners.com> Message-ID: I live in the woods in Northern Virginia, and we have similar issues with mosquitoes. I take great pains to disrupt their breeding cycle with Mosquito Dunks and Mosquito Bits in any place that has standing water (rain barrels, downspout drains, big puddle-prone areas, etc) and distributing around my yard a bunch of "Mosquito Deleter" buckets. They are usually teeming with larvae, so I know that they are at least attractive. Mosquitoes don't travel very far from birth to death - not more than 150' - so if you can keep them from breeding near where you are, you'll really reduce the quantity of those pests. I also invested in a Flowtron Electronic Insect killer (aka an "Indiscriminate Wildlife Slaughterer", per Wirecutter), which comes with several Octenol attractants, which are good for mosquitoes found in the northern US. I separately picked up Lurex3 attractants, which are good for southern US (Asian Tiger) mosquitoes, and run both on the Flowtron. We're close enough to the "border" that I just went with both types. None of the solutions we're using are flawless, but I know they're making a difference. The big thing I can recommend is to look for any places that might have standing water around your property Gutters, stumps, drain lines, bird baths, etc all can provide excellent breeding environments for these bugs! Links to what I have picked up. Obviously, no requirement you buy from Amazon! Mosquito Dunks: https://www.amazon.com/Summit-responsible-solutions-555-Mosquito/dp/B0000AH849/ Mosquito Bits: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001AUF8G/ Mosquito Deleter: https://www.mymosquitodeleter.com/ Flowtron BK-40D Electronic Insect Killer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004R9VW/ Octenol attractant: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000063XHT/ Lurex3 attractant: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00281G1SY/ On Mon, Jul 6, 2020 at 12:33 PM Tony Vaccaro wrote: > They do sell pieces of equipment that mimic a full size animal that > attracts mosquitos and kills them. They usually run a few hundred dollars > to four hundred dollars What they do is kill off the female population > usually within a ? acre of the machine. I understand it works very well but > I have never bought one. > > Do a search on Mosquito Magnet. > > I am surprised no one has mentioned this already. > > > > Tony V > > www.lotusowners.com > > www.lotusltd.com > > > > > > *From:* Shop-talk *On Behalf Of * > eric at megageek.com > *Sent:* Monday, July 06, 2020 9:09 AM > *To:* Shop-talk at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Shop-talk] Mosquito problem in Central Maryland > > > > Old tires are another vector of mosquito breading, so make sure you don't > have any of them. > > If you have ponds or lakes on your property (or nearby) call the local ag > extension office. In my county, they put fish in any pond/lake (on a > regular basis) that eat the larva for free. Once they know about a body of > water, them put the lake on a routine stocking schedule. > > > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson > -Who is John Galt? > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eric at megageek.com Tue Jul 7 05:57:55 2020 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2020 07:57:55 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Inside door stickers Message-ID: When I painted the truck, I had to strip all the inside the door stickers. I took photos of all of them (none where in good enough shape to save.) But I was wondering. Since this is a truck, is there a requirement for me to have any of these stickers there? Especially the GVWR ones? If so, is there a website I can enter in the data and have it make an official looking one? (I can do it in photoshop, but I don't want to waste all that much time if I don't have to.) Thanks. "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson -Who is John Galt? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jniolon at att.net Tue Jul 7 08:56:50 2020 From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon) Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2020 09:56:50 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Inside door stickers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1UWCm9Hpza.4YbcEt7Kh4G@johns-desktop> Eric I know there are sites/companies that sell the vintage stuff for most car mfgs? firewall stickers, air cleaner, etc... like here https://www.classiccardecals.net/online-store/ford/ I've seen lots at car shows and such... bet there are more behind google john ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: 7/7/2020 6:57:55 AM Subject: [Shop-talk] Inside door stickers When I painted the truck, I had to strip all the inside the door stickers. I took photos of all of them (none where in good enough shape to save.) But I was wondering. Since this is a truck, is there a requirement for me to have any of these stickers there? Especially the GVWR ones? If so, is there a website I can enter in the data and have it make an official looking one? (I can do it in photoshop, but I don't want to waste all that much time if I don't have to.) Thanks. "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson -Who is John Galt? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ejrussell at mebtel.net Tue Jul 7 08:58:41 2020 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell) Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2020 10:58:41 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Inside door stickers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I don't know if those stickers are required. Perhaps required of the original manufacturer but maybe not for private sale? Anyway, I have reproduced underhood stickers for restorations and have had replacement stickers made after body repairs/repainting (race car) using DIY Lettering . They were easy to work with - I emailed .jpg files and they replied with 'proofs' which I could tweak if needed until it was what I wanted. The items have proved quite durable. Eric Russell Mebane, NC On 7/7/2020 7:57 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote: > When I painted the truck, I had to strip all the inside the door > stickers. > > I took photos of all of them (none where in good enough shape to save.) > > But I was wondering. ?Since this is a truck, is there a requirement > for me to have any of these stickers there? ?Especially the GVWR ones? > > If so, is there a website I can enter in the data and have it make an > official ?looking one? ?(I can do it in photoshop, but I don't want to > waste all that much time if I don't have to.) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com Fri Jul 10 12:44:29 2020 From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott Hall) Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2020 13:44:29 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Re-wiring an outdoor outlet Message-ID: I have this: https://i.imgur.com/QWy2Ikn.jpg https://i.imgur.com/s39fdds.jpg Happening at the new house. Those rocks surround the pool deck for ornamentation, I guess. Shockingly (or not, heh), those outlets work. I'd like to re-do the whole thing to be anchored into the ground and not make me nervous every time I look at it. The pool is about eight feet away. Maybe two feet of that rock...'garden' then six feet of concrete decking. Those outlets themselves don't appear to be GFCI, though I'd think it was a good idea. They have their own sub-panel, on the side of the house maybe forty feet away. I'm completely okay with throwing the breaker and installing a new actual outlet, I'm soliciting advice on how to re-do that conduit (can you 'splice' conduit so I dig and then do it like I'd do PVC?) and anchor the whole thing firmly to the ground. And for specific solutions you guys can think of too--I was thinking I could pour a concrete 'rock' in the garage with a hole for a gang box and then put that where this thing is now, etc. Thanks guys. Scott -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com Fri Jul 10 12:50:54 2020 From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott Hall) Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2020 13:50:54 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Recommendations on yard sprayer Message-ID: I have this thing: https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/262df14e-86b7-4bdf-8f8f-da9499c09315_2.92f2350fc4e1bca90c0192173c0ef9a5.jpeg?odnWidth=undefined&odnHeight=undefined&odnBg=ffffff I'm trying to keep weeds at bay--in the driveway and near the garage, and in those rocks in my previous post which sprout grass each spring. My plan was to use that sprayer to hose down the rock garden with a mixture of vinegar and salt and kill the little bastards before they germinated. That sprayer is useless for that--it produces a tiiny, thin spray that is really only useful for individual tiny weeds in cracks in pavement. And even that takes forever. The 'rocked area' is maybe 2000 sq. ft. total, and I want to inundate the area--I pulled them all by hand this year or used a driveway/roofing torch to burn them away but they're already re-sprouting. Anybody have a sprayer that can cover some area they recommend? Scott -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From patintexas at icloud.com Fri Jul 10 13:04:41 2020 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2020 14:04:41 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Re-wiring an outdoor outlet In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Scott, Several thoughts. There needs to be a GFCI Function on any outside circuit. It could be a GFCI breaker in a panel or a GFCI outlet. I would get a GFCI outlet tester to see If the circuit has the GFCI functionality somewhere. It?s redundant to have a GFCI outlet & breaker on the same circuit. Since this outlet doesn?t seem to be up to code I?d question whether the sub panel was installed to code also. If it isn?t a real sub panel, but rather just a disconnect there may be something farther back in the system that is supplying the GFCI function, either a GFCI breaker in another panel or a GFCI outlet in the garage or a bathroom. As for replacing the outlet/cutting the PVC, yes it can be done on the straight conduct. If it were me, I?d cut the conduit back to a straight part and then complete the conduit with a flexible conduit like what is used on an A/C unit. That way I?d the outlet gets hit or stressed it won?t break like your old one. I?d also install an in use cover on the Outlet box so that it Will still be water resistant when something is plugged into it. I?d be happy to discuss this further with you if desired. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jul 10, 2020, at 1:45 PM, Scott Hall wrote: ? I have this: https://i.imgur.com/QWy2Ikn.jpg https://i.imgur.com/s39fdds.jpg Happening at the new house. Those rocks surround the pool deck for ornamentation, I guess. Shockingly (or not, heh), those outlets work. I'd like to re-do the whole thing to be anchored into the ground and not make me nervous every time I look at it. The pool is about eight feet away. Maybe two feet of that rock...'garden' then six feet of concrete decking. Those outlets themselves don't appear to be GFCI, though I'd think it was a good idea. They have their own sub-panel, on the side of the house maybe forty feet away. I'm completely okay with throwing the breaker and installing a new actual outlet, I'm soliciting advice on how to re-do that conduit (can you 'splice' conduit so I dig and then do it like I'd do PVC?) and anchor the whole thing firmly to the ground. And for specific solutions you guys can think of too--I was thinking I could pour a concrete 'rock' in the garage with a hole for a gang box and then put that where this thing is now, etc. Thanks guys. Scott _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jrbabiarz at yahoo.com Fri Jul 10 13:09:26 2020 From: jrbabiarz at yahoo.com (John Babiarz) Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2020 19:09:26 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] Recommendations on yard sprayer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <708817141.3048572.1594408166099@mail.yahoo.com> Scott,Do yourself a favor and get one of these: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-ONE-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-2-Gal-Chemical-Sprayer-with-2-0-Ah-Battery-and-Charger-Included-P2830A/303365816 With an area that size, you'll be glad to not have to stop and pump the thing upby hand continually. I had one of those (or similar) but after getting the Ryobi,I won't go back. They have a 1 gallon model also, along with a kit that includesa holster/strap setup. You'll have to check the Home Depot site though, asthey are the only one that carries Ryobi stuff (other than ebay/Amazon)... With salt, you'll just want to run a bit of fresh water through it when you're done.The 'mist' is adjustable, so you can do it lightly or in a heavier stream. Good luck!jb On Friday, July 10, 2020, 2:51:43 PM EDT, Scott Hall wrote: I have this thing: https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/262df14e-86b7-4bdf-8f8f-da9499c09315_2.92f2350fc4e1bca90c0192173c0ef9a5.jpeg?odnWidth=undefined&odnHeight=undefined&odnBg=ffffff? I'm trying to keep weeds at bay--in the driveway and near the garage, and in those rocks in my previous post which sprout grass each spring. My plan was to use that sprayer to hose down the rock garden with a mixture of vinegar and salt and kill the little bastards before they germinated.? That sprayer is useless for that--it produces a tiiny, thin spray that is really only useful for individual tiny weeds in cracks in pavement. And even that takes forever. The 'rocked area' is maybe 2000 sq. ft. total, and I want to inundate?the area--I pulled them all by hand this year or used a driveway/roofing torch to burn them away but they're already re-sprouting. Anybody have a sprayer that can cover some area they recommend? Scott_______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jrbabiarz at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ronnie.day at gmail.com Fri Jul 10 13:12:20 2020 From: ronnie.day at gmail.com (Ronnie Day) Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2020 14:12:20 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Re-wiring an outdoor outlet In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Scott, I like the idea of the box being a bit above the ground. Water couldn't pool in it that way. All of the outside surface mount boxes I've put in in the last several years have been plastic. Reduces the chance of shortin if water does get inside. And I wrap each plug with electrical tape to further reduce shorting possibilities. If the conduit is in decent shape you can reuse it if you want. I'd pull new wire, using the old wire to pull the new, suggest #12 stranded. You can put a GFCI breaker in the panel, or a GFCI plug, but you need one or the other. If you cast a "rock" to disguise this thing (I like the idea) be sure to put a drain hole so that any water that does get inside the box drains naturally. HTH, RD On Fri, Jul 10, 2020 at 1:45 PM Scott Hall wrote: > I have this: > > https://i.imgur.com/QWy2Ikn.jpg > https://i.imgur.com/s39fdds.jpg > > Happening at the new house. Those rocks surround the pool deck for > ornamentation, I guess. > > Shockingly (or not, heh), those outlets work. I'd like to re-do the whole > thing to be anchored into the ground and not make me nervous every time I > look at it. > > The pool is about eight feet away. Maybe two feet of that rock...'garden' > then six feet of concrete decking. Those outlets themselves don't appear to > be GFCI, though I'd think it was a good idea. They have their own > sub-panel, on the side of the house maybe forty feet away. > > I'm completely okay with throwing the breaker and installing a new actual > outlet, I'm soliciting advice on how to re-do that conduit (can you > 'splice' conduit so I dig and then do it like I'd do PVC?) and anchor the > whole thing firmly to the ground. And for specific solutions you guys can > think of too--I was thinking I could pour a concrete 'rock' in the garage > with a hole for a gang box and then put that where this thing is now, etc. > > Thanks guys. > > Scott > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ronnie.day at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jdinnis at gmail.com Fri Jul 10 13:29:06 2020 From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis) Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2020 14:29:06 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Re-wiring an outdoor outlet In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Yep, dig down a bit to find some of the conduit that is in good shape. Glue on new conduit as needed. I'd recommend new THHNW wires, pulled form the box on the house. Put your GFCI in the box on the house, I think it needs to be in the circuit before it goes underground. I'd drop a piece of pressure treated 4x4 post to attach the new box to. If you cast it in concrete and end up having to make a fix again later, it will be a major pain. On Fri, Jul 10, 2020 at 1:45 PM Scott Hall wrote: > I have this: > > https://i.imgur.com/QWy2Ikn.jpg > https://i.imgur.com/s39fdds.jpg > > Happening at the new house. Those rocks surround the pool deck for > ornamentation, I guess. > > Shockingly (or not, heh), those outlets work. I'd like to re-do the whole > thing to be anchored into the ground and not make me nervous every time I > look at it. > > The pool is about eight feet away. Maybe two feet of that rock...'garden' > then six feet of concrete decking. Those outlets themselves don't appear to > be GFCI, though I'd think it was a good idea. They have their own > sub-panel, on the side of the house maybe forty feet away. > > I'm completely okay with throwing the breaker and installing a new actual > outlet, I'm soliciting advice on how to re-do that conduit (can you > 'splice' conduit so I dig and then do it like I'd do PVC?) and anchor the > whole thing firmly to the ground. And for specific solutions you guys can > think of too--I was thinking I could pour a concrete 'rock' in the garage > with a hole for a gang box and then put that where this thing is now, etc. > > Thanks guys. > > Scott > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com > > -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From parkanzky at gmail.com Fri Jul 10 13:34:35 2020 From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky) Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2020 15:34:35 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Recommendations on yard sprayer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I'm working on creating a border around my barn so I can mow without trimming so I've been researching the same issue. Most of those sprayers have an adjustment at the tip to go from a stream to a wider pattern. Twisting the tip on that thing doesn't change anything? If that doesn't work then get yourself another sprayer. Then buy something like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RM43-32-oz-Total-Vegetation-Control-Weed-Killer-and-Preventer-Concentrate-76502/205748220 There are a ton of brands out there. Hose the area down with something like that and everything will be dead within a couple weeks and stay that way until next year. -Paul On Fri, Jul 10, 2020 at 2:52 PM Scott Hall wrote: > > I have this thing: > > https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/262df14e-86b7-4bdf-8f8f-da9499c09315_2.92f2350fc4e1bca90c0192173c0ef9a5.jpeg?odnWidth=undefined&odnHeight=undefined&odnBg=ffffff > > I'm trying to keep weeds at bay--in the driveway and near the garage, and in those rocks in my previous post which sprout grass each spring. My plan was to use that sprayer to hose down the rock garden with a mixture of vinegar and salt and kill the little bastards before they germinated. > > That sprayer is useless for that--it produces a tiiny, thin spray that is really only useful for individual tiny weeds in cracks in pavement. And even that takes forever. > > The 'rocked area' is maybe 2000 sq. ft. total, and I want to inundate the area--I pulled them all by hand this year or used a driveway/roofing torch to burn them away but they're already re-sprouting. > > Anybody have a sprayer that can cover some area they recommend? > > Scott From fishplate at gmail.com Fri Jul 10 13:53:54 2020 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2020 15:53:54 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Re-wiring an outdoor outlet In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Pat said he's put an in-use cover. I'd add that the NEC requires an in-use cover in this spot, and it's just smart to do it anyway. John said mount it on a 4x4, that's probably easiest, unless you are going for aesthetics, in which case the cast rock may be an option. You could also get one of those fake rocks that goes over a well pump and mount it in that somehow. Pull new wires, make sure there's GFCI protection, and rock on! On Fri, Jul 10, 2020 at 3:05 PM Pat Horne wrote: > > Scott, > > Several thoughts. There needs to be a GFCI Function on any outside circuit. It could be a GFCI breaker in a panel or a GFCI outlet. > > I would get a GFCI outlet tester to see If the circuit has the GFCI functionality somewhere. It?s redundant to have a GFCI outlet & breaker on the same circuit. > > Since this outlet doesn?t seem to be up to code I?d question whether the sub panel was installed to code also. If it isn?t a real sub panel, but rather just a disconnect there may be something farther back in the system that is supplying the GFCI function, either a GFCI breaker in another panel or a GFCI outlet in the garage or a bathroom. > > As for replacing the outlet/cutting the PVC, yes it can be done on the straight conduct. If it were me, I?d cut the conduit back to a straight part and then complete the conduit with a flexible conduit like what is used on an A/C unit. That way I?d the outlet gets hit or stressed it won?t break like your old one. I?d also install an in use cover on the Outlet box so that it Will still be water resistant when something is plugged into it. > > I?d be happy to discuss this further with you if desired. > > Peace, > Pat > > Pat Horne > We support Habitat for Humanity > > > On Jul 10, 2020, at 1:45 PM, Scott Hall wrote: > > ? > I have this: > > https://i.imgur.com/QWy2Ikn.jpg > https://i.imgur.com/s39fdds.jpg > > Happening at the new house. Those rocks surround the pool deck for ornamentation, I guess. > > Shockingly (or not, heh), those outlets work. I'd like to re-do the whole thing to be anchored into the ground and not make me nervous every time I look at it. > > The pool is about eight feet away. Maybe two feet of that rock...'garden' then six feet of concrete decking. Those outlets themselves don't appear to be GFCI, though I'd think it was a good idea. They have their own sub-panel, on the side of the house maybe forty feet away. > > I'm completely okay with throwing the breaker and installing a new actual outlet, I'm soliciting advice on how to re-do that conduit (can you 'splice' conduit so I dig and then do it like I'd do PVC?) and anchor the whole thing firmly to the ground. And for specific solutions you guys can think of too--I was thinking I could pour a concrete 'rock' in the garage with a hole for a gang box and then put that where this thing is now, etc. > > Thanks guys. > > Scott > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate at gmail.com > From brabel at comcast.net Fri Jul 10 15:18:02 2020 From: brabel at comcast.net (Bill Rabel) Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2020 14:18:02 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Re-wiring an outdoor outlet In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BAE6C0F-EFE5-4DE6-ACE7-487F0D72E21D@comcast.net> If you could use some lighting on the pathways, consider a pedestal with a light and outlets, usually seen on docks in marinas. - Bill Rabel Anacortes Since when do you have to agree with people to defend them from injustice? - Lillian Hellman > On Jul 10, 2020, at 12:54 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > > ?Pat said he's put an in-use cover. I'd add that the NEC requires an > in-use cover in this spot, and it's just smart to do it anyway. John > said mount it on a 4x4, that's probably easiest, unless you are going > for aesthetics, in which case the cast rock may be an option. You > could also get one of those fake rocks that goes over a well pump and > mount it in that somehow. > > Pull new wires, make sure there's GFCI protection, and rock on! > > >> On Fri, Jul 10, 2020 at 3:05 PM Pat Horne wrote: >> >> Scott, >> >> Several thoughts. There needs to be a GFCI Function on any outside circuit. It could be a GFCI breaker in a panel or a GFCI outlet. >> >> I would get a GFCI outlet tester to see If the circuit has the GFCI functionality somewhere. It?s redundant to have a GFCI outlet & breaker on the same circuit. >> >> Since this outlet doesn?t seem to be up to code I?d question whether the sub panel was installed to code also. If it isn?t a real sub panel, but rather just a disconnect there may be something farther back in the system that is supplying the GFCI function, either a GFCI breaker in another panel or a GFCI outlet in the garage or a bathroom. >> >> As for replacing the outlet/cutting the PVC, yes it can be done on the straight conduct. If it were me, I?d cut the conduit back to a straight part and then complete the conduit with a flexible conduit like what is used on an A/C unit. That way I?d the outlet gets hit or stressed it won?t break like your old one. I?d also install an in use cover on the Outlet box so that it Will still be water resistant when something is plugged into it. >> >> I?d be happy to discuss this further with you if desired. >> >> Peace, >> Pat >> >> Pat Horne >> We support Habitat for Humanity >> >> >> On Jul 10, 2020, at 1:45 PM, Scott Hall wrote: >> >> ? >> I have this: >> >> https://i.imgur.com/QWy2Ikn.jpg >> https://i.imgur.com/s39fdds.jpg >> >> Happening at the new house. Those rocks surround the pool deck for ornamentation, I guess. >> >> Shockingly (or not, heh), those outlets work. I'd like to re-do the whole thing to be anchored into the ground and not make me nervous every time I look at it. >> >> The pool is about eight feet away. Maybe two feet of that rock...'garden' then six feet of concrete decking. Those outlets themselves don't appear to be GFCI, though I'd think it was a good idea. They have their own sub-panel, on the side of the house maybe forty feet away. >> >> I'm completely okay with throwing the breaker and installing a new actual outlet, I'm soliciting advice on how to re-do that conduit (can you 'splice' conduit so I dig and then do it like I'd do PVC?) and anchor the whole thing firmly to the ground. And for specific solutions you guys can think of too--I was thinking I could pour a concrete 'rock' in the garage with a hole for a gang box and then put that where this thing is now, etc. >> >> Thanks guys. >> >> Scott >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/brabel at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bk13 at earthlink.net Fri Jul 10 16:09:58 2020 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2020 15:09:58 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Re-wiring an outdoor outlet In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <396b1a3f-2752-084f-9045-0f3bb622de4a@earthlink.net> Scott - You have received good advice. - Cut the conduit back to a straight section then run new.? It might be helpful to have a compact pipe cutter if you intend to not pull new wire.? Sample cutter: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-101-Tube-Cutter-1-4-in-to-1-1-8-in-40617/100075014 - If not running new wire, take about a foot of conduit out and shift the location so you have fresh wire.? It looks like the insulation is damaged where the conduit broke. - Agree with the in-use cover others suggested. - Agree about having the GFCI protecting the wire too.? Put it at an upstream outlet or as the breaker. - Agree with the suggestion to use a 4x4 post. - Suspect the installation was not permitted.? Might be good to have an electrician look at your sub-panel.? As an example, if the neutral wires share a bus bar with the ground wires and panel box, that is likely wrong.? Per my local codes, the only place ground and neutral wires can share a bus bar is the main panel. - Make sure the wires are sized for the circuit breaker.? 12GA for 20A and 14GA for 15A. Brian On 7/10/2020 11:44 AM, Scott Hall wrote: > I have this: > > https://i.imgur.com/QWy2Ikn.jpg > https://i.imgur.com/s39fdds.jpg > > Happening at the new house. Those rocks surround the pool deck for > ornamentation, I guess. > > Shockingly (or not, heh), those outlets work. I'd like to re-do the > whole thing to be anchored into the ground and not make me nervous > every time I look at it. > > The pool is about eight feet away. Maybe two feet of that > rock...'garden' then six feet of concrete decking. Those outlets > themselves don't appear to be GFCI, though I'd think it was a good > idea. They have their own sub-panel, on the side of the house maybe > forty feet away. > > I'm completely okay with throwing the breaker and installing a new > actual outlet, I'm soliciting advice on how to re-do that conduit (can > you 'splice' conduit so I dig and then do it like I'd do PVC?) and > anchor the whole thing firmly to the ground. And for specific > solutions you guys can think of too--I was thinking I could pour a > concrete 'rock' in the garage with a hole for a gang box and then put > that where this thing is now, etc. > > Thanks guys. > > Scott > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org Fri Jul 10 16:21:47 2020 From: mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org (Jimmie Mayfield) Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2020 18:21:47 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Recommendations on yard sprayer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <062e7edf-7d6b-4c27-6c76-86cf8a6a597f@sackheads.org> On 7/10/20 14:50, Scott Hall wrote: > I have this thing: > > https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/262df14e-86b7-4bdf-8f8f-da9499c09315_2.92f2350fc4e1bca90c0192173c0ef9a5.jpeg?odnWidth=undefined&odnHeight=undefined&odnBg=ffffff > > > I'm trying to keep weeds at bay--in the driveway and near the garage, > and in those rocks in my previous post which sprout grass each spring. > My plan was to use that sprayer to hose down the rock garden with a > mixture of vinegar and salt and kill the little bastards before they > germinated. > > That sprayer is useless for that--it produces a tiiny, thin spray that > is really only useful for individual tiny weeds in cracks in pavement. > And even that takes forever. > > The 'rocked area' is maybe 2000 sq. ft. total, and I want to > inundate?the area--I pulled them all by hand this year or used a > driveway/roofing torch to burn them away but they're already re-sprouting. > > Anybody have a sprayer that can cover some area they recommend? > I use a couple sprayers depending on what I need to do.? For large areas, I have an Ortho "Dial N Spray" hose-end type sprayer like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ortho-Spray-Multi-Use-Hose-End-Sprayer/dp/B0071D0EZK I use this when spraying the main yard. I also have this Field King brand manual backpack sprayer: https://www.amazon.com/Professional-190328-Backpack-Sprayer-Killing/dp/B000AYHKUO Holds 4-gallons of pre-mixed solution and I strongly recommend these over the manual pump sprayer like you tried to use. Now, I did swap the nozzle for a "TeeJet" style nozzle that makes a better fan spray (sorry, I don't remember where I bought them...maybe at the local Southern States store).? If you do the same, TeeJet makes dozens of agricultural nozzles so I recommend you look up the TeeJet charts to pick the one(s) that create the droplet size and spray pattern that you want. For a 2000-sqft area, I'd probably use the hose-end sprayer.? The backpack sprayer would work fine but you might need to fill it more than once depending on your dilution rate. (I also have a couple small pump sprayers like you tried to use but they're only good for spot spraying.? I wouldn't want to use one for more than 100 sqft)... Jimmie From bk13 at earthlink.net Fri Jul 10 16:23:17 2020 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2020 15:23:17 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Recommendations on yard sprayer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Scott - I have a HF backpack sprayer that I highly. https://www.harborfreight.com/4-gallon-backpack-sprayer-63092.html Click the coupon link at the top right of the page and they are currently $19.99.? I've been using it for several years now after having 1 and 3 gal pump up bottles like yours.? It is so much nicer to not carry the bottle.? The big pump handle is also much easier to use and take many less pumps.? The nozzle is adjustable to make it easier to spray broad areas.? I do recommend taking a moment to make sure all the fittings are tight before first use. I have several brick patios and a bunch of railroad tie steps. About every three weeks during weed season I mix up three gallons of a now evil commercial weed killer and make a round up and down the property.? That seems to be a good balance for me.? Late in the season, I might drop to two gallons. Brian On 7/10/2020 11:50 AM, Scott Hall wrote: > I have this thing: > > https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/262df14e-86b7-4bdf-8f8f-da9499c09315_2.92f2350fc4e1bca90c0192173c0ef9a5.jpeg?odnWidth=undefined&odnHeight=undefined&odnBg=ffffff > > > I'm trying to keep weeds at bay--in the driveway and near the garage, > and in those rocks in my previous post which sprout grass each spring. > My plan was to use that sprayer to hose down the rock garden with a > mixture of vinegar and salt and kill the little bastards before they > germinated. > > That sprayer is useless for that--it produces a tiiny, thin spray that > is really only useful for individual tiny weeds in cracks in pavement. > And even that takes forever. > > The 'rocked area' is maybe 2000 sq. ft. total, and I want to > inundate?the area--I pulled them all by hand this year or used a > driveway/roofing torch to burn them away but they're already re-sprouting. > > Anybody have a sprayer that can cover some area they recommend? > > Scott > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From marka at maracing.com Fri Jul 10 17:26:52 2020 From: marka at maracing.com (Mark Andy) Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2020 19:26:52 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Recommendations on yard sprayer In-Reply-To: <062e7edf-7d6b-4c27-6c76-86cf8a6a597f@sackheads.org> References: <062e7edf-7d6b-4c27-6c76-86cf8a6a597f@sackheads.org> Message-ID: Howdy, I have a gravel driveway I started spraying. Similar area to the OP. I bought a Milwaukee backpack sprayer. I already have a bunch of Milwaukee stuff, so that one made sense for me. https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Outdoor-Power-Equipment/Sprayers/2820-21PS It's awesome. I would NEVER go back to a pump sprayer. Don't get me wrong, I didn't really like paying for it, but every single time I use it I'm glad that I have it. Mark On Fri, Jul 10, 2020 at 6:21 PM Jimmie Mayfield < mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org> wrote: > On 7/10/20 14:50, Scott Hall wrote: > > I have this thing: > > > > > https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/262df14e-86b7-4bdf-8f8f-da9499c09315_2.92f2350fc4e1bca90c0192173c0ef9a5.jpeg?odnWidth=undefined&odnHeight=undefined&odnBg=ffffff > > > > > > I'm trying to keep weeds at bay--in the driveway and near the garage, > > and in those rocks in my previous post which sprout grass each spring. > > My plan was to use that sprayer to hose down the rock garden with a > > mixture of vinegar and salt and kill the little bastards before they > > germinated. > > > > That sprayer is useless for that--it produces a tiiny, thin spray that > > is really only useful for individual tiny weeds in cracks in pavement. > > And even that takes forever. > > > > The 'rocked area' is maybe 2000 sq. ft. total, and I want to > > inundate the area--I pulled them all by hand this year or used a > > driveway/roofing torch to burn them away but they're already > re-sprouting. > > > > Anybody have a sprayer that can cover some area they recommend? > > > > I use a couple sprayers depending on what I need to do. For large > areas, I have an Ortho "Dial N Spray" hose-end type sprayer like this: > > https://www.amazon.com/Ortho-Spray-Multi-Use-Hose-End-Sprayer/dp/B0071D0EZK > > I use this when spraying the main yard. > > > I also have this Field King brand manual backpack sprayer: > > > https://www.amazon.com/Professional-190328-Backpack-Sprayer-Killing/dp/B000AYHKUO > > Holds 4-gallons of pre-mixed solution and I strongly recommend these > over the manual pump sprayer like you tried to use. > > Now, I did swap the nozzle for a "TeeJet" style nozzle that makes a > better fan spray (sorry, I don't remember where I bought them...maybe at > the local Southern States store). If you do the same, TeeJet makes > dozens of agricultural nozzles so I recommend you look up the TeeJet > charts to pick the one(s) that create the droplet size and spray pattern > that you want. > > > For a 2000-sqft area, I'd probably use the hose-end sprayer. The > backpack sprayer would work fine but you might need to fill it more than > once depending on your dilution rate. > > > (I also have a couple small pump sprayers like you tried to use but > they're only good for spot spraying. I wouldn't want to use one for > more than 100 sqft)... > > > Jimmie > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/marka at maracing.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Fri Jul 10 18:08:17 2020 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2020 20:08:17 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Recommendations on yard sprayer In-Reply-To: <062e7edf-7d6b-4c27-6c76-86cf8a6a597f@sackheads.org> References: <062e7edf-7d6b-4c27-6c76-86cf8a6a597f@sackheads.org> Message-ID: As an aside, if you follow the label instructions, and spray in the proper wind conditions, and wear a respirator, you shouldn't have any problems. Oh, wear gloves and wash your hands afterwards. On Fri, Jul 10, 2020, 18:22 Jimmie Mayfield wrote: > On 7/10/20 14:50, Scott Hall wrote: > > I have this thing: > > > > > https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/262df14e-86b7-4bdf-8f8f-da9499c09315_2.92f2350fc4e1bca90c0192173c0ef9a5.jpeg?odnWidth=undefined&odnHeight=undefined&odnBg=ffffff > > > > > > I'm trying to keep weeds at bay--in the driveway and near the garage, > > and in those rocks in my previous post which sprout grass each spring. > > My plan was to use that sprayer to hose down the rock garden with a > > mixture of vinegar and salt and kill the little bastards before they > > germinated. > > > > That sprayer is useless for that--it produces a tiiny, thin spray that > > is really only useful for individual tiny weeds in cracks in pavement. > > And even that takes forever. > > > > The 'rocked area' is maybe 2000 sq. ft. total, and I want to > > inundate the area--I pulled them all by hand this year or used a > > driveway/roofing torch to burn them away but they're already > re-sprouting. > > > > Anybody have a sprayer that can cover some area they recommend? > > > > I use a couple sprayers depending on what I need to do. For large > areas, I have an Ortho "Dial N Spray" hose-end type sprayer like this: > > https://www.amazon.com/Ortho-Spray-Multi-Use-Hose-End-Sprayer/dp/B0071D0EZK > > I use this when spraying the main yard. > > > I also have this Field King brand manual backpack sprayer: > > > https://www.amazon.com/Professional-190328-Backpack-Sprayer-Killing/dp/B000AYHKUO > > Holds 4-gallons of pre-mixed solution and I strongly recommend these > over the manual pump sprayer like you tried to use. > > Now, I did swap the nozzle for a "TeeJet" style nozzle that makes a > better fan spray (sorry, I don't remember where I bought them...maybe at > the local Southern States store). If you do the same, TeeJet makes > dozens of agricultural nozzles so I recommend you look up the TeeJet > charts to pick the one(s) that create the droplet size and spray pattern > that you want. > > > For a 2000-sqft area, I'd probably use the hose-end sprayer. The > backpack sprayer would work fine but you might need to fill it more than > once depending on your dilution rate. > > > (I also have a couple small pump sprayers like you tried to use but > they're only good for spot spraying. I wouldn't want to use one for > more than 100 sqft)... > > > Jimmie > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jamesf at groupwbench.org Sun Jul 12 10:44:48 2020 From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin) Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2020 12:44:48 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] How to connect skewed beams? Message-ID: Hope you're all avoiding the ridiculous heat. I am buidling a deck like the rest of the nation, so my tshirt tan will be well developed in a few weeks. I'm trying to connect two double 2x beams to each other. They meet at about 33 degrees from parallel. Simpson doesn't have anything that I can find that works outside the 45-90 range. Since any fasteners will be near the end of the angled beam, I'm hesitant to drive something like Ledger Loks through for fear of splitting it. I don't have a way to support it from underneath, it can only hang from the main beam with a hanger that clamps over the top, or be face connected in shear. The angled beam is 8.5' long so it will have significant weight on it if the deck ever sees people. The other end of the angled beam isn't built yet, and it will be resting on its own post, so I could splay them such that the end in question uses two separate single beam connectors, but I come up empty there too except for a bendable angle bracket that I won't be able to fasten on the inside angle: http://embed.widencdn.net/pdf/plus/ssttoolbox/8yq2wqljay/C-C-2019-p284.pdf The other option is to have them meet at their cut faces over a post, but the post is a 4x6 and I don't know if that would be enough purchase to provide support. I would have to fasten everything into the post; there is no post-to-beam connector for beams meeting at 33 degrees. thanks, jim From jniolon at att.net Sun Jul 12 11:14:23 2020 From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon) Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2020 12:14:23 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] How to connect skewed beams? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1UWCrdPT2k.1BDi2Kk7yZC@johns-desktop> Jim, do you have the ability to cut/weld/bend metal plate ?? just bend up your own "simpson strong tie" at what ever angle you need... you could even do an inside and outside... (inside would be tough) or measure and cut a plate whatever length and width you need to place under the two beams on top of the post (4x6) and drill the plate and screw in anchoring bolts/screws to the 2" edge. john ----- Original Message ----- From: Jim Franklin To: shop-talk Sent: 7/12/2020 11:44:48 AM Subject: [Shop-talk] How to connect skewed beams? ________________________________________________________________________________ Hope you're all avoiding the ridiculous heat. I am buidling a deck like the rest of the nation, so my tshirt tan will be well developed in a few weeks. I'm trying to connect two double 2x beams to each other. They meet at about 33 degrees from parallel. Simpson doesn't have anything that I can find that works outside the 45-90 range. Since any fasteners will be near the end of the angled beam, I'm hesitant to drive something like Ledger Loks through for fear of splitting it. I don't have a way to support it from underneath, it can only hang from the main beam with a hanger that clamps over the top, or be face connected in shear. The angled beam is 8.5' long so it will have significant weight on it if the deck ever sees people. The other end of the angled beam isn't built yet, and it will be resting on its own post, so I could splay them such that the end in question uses two separate single beam connectors, but I come up empty there too except for a bendable angle bracket that I won't be able to fasten on the inside angle: http://embed.widencdn.net/pdf/plus/ssttoolbox/8yq2wqljay/C-C-2019-p284.pdf The other option is to have them meet at their cut faces over a post, but the post is a 4x6 and I don't know if that would be enough purchase to provide support. I would have to fasten everything into the post; there is no post-to-beam connector for beams meeting at 33 degrees. thanks, jim _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jniolon at att.net From patintexas at icloud.com Sun Jul 12 11:31:32 2020 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2020 12:31:32 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] How to connect skewed beams? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7647B08E-DA10-4C01-BFBF-716BE9134D4A@icloud.com> Jim, I?d try to design something heavy like they use in timber framing. If you use plate steel rather than sheet metal that would lay on top of the joint with sides on both sides of each member that could be through bolted to pinch the 2xs between the steel. You might consider welding the nuts in place so you don?t have to work a wrench in there while assembling. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jul 12, 2020, at 11:49 AM, Jim Franklin wrote: ?Hope you're all avoiding the ridiculous heat. I am buidling a deck like the rest of the nation, so my tshirt tan will be well developed in a few weeks. I'm trying to connect two double 2x beams to each other. They meet at about 33 degrees from parallel. Simpson doesn't have anything that I can find that works outside the 45-90 range. Since any fasteners will be near the end of the angled beam, I'm hesitant to drive something like Ledger Loks through for fear of splitting it. I don't have a way to support it from underneath, it can only hang from the main beam with a hanger that clamps over the top, or be face connected in shear. The angled beam is 8.5' long so it will have significant weight on it if the deck ever sees people. The other end of the angled beam isn't built yet, and it will be resting on its own post, so I could splay them such that the end in question uses two separate single beam connectors, but I come up empty there too except for a bendable angle bracket that I won't be able to fasten on the inside angle: http://embed.widencdn.net/pdf/plus/ssttoolbox/8yq2wqljay/C-C-2019-p284.pdf The other option is to have them meet at their cut faces over a post, but the post is a 4x6 and I don't know if that would be enough purchase to provide support. I would have to fasten everything into the post; there is no post-to-beam connector for beams meeting at 33 degrees. thanks, jim _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com From jamesf at groupwbench.org Sun Jul 12 11:50:15 2020 From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin) Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2020 13:50:15 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] How to connect skewed beams? In-Reply-To: <7647B08E-DA10-4C01-BFBF-716BE9134D4A@icloud.com> References: <7647B08E-DA10-4C01-BFBF-716BE9134D4A@icloud.com> Message-ID: I can't cut/weld steel like John suggested but I do have a friend who can. However, you've both jogged loose my thinking - I could rest them both on the post, tie them together at the top and both sides with a thin Simpson plate for tension, and use right angle brackets underneath both beams where they stop being supported by the post to extend the support. Best of all it's all off the shelf and galvanized (unless my friend "insists" on making me a custom one to support the beam existing at 33 degrees ;-) ). thanks, jim > On Jul 12, 2020, at 1:31 PM, Pat Horne wrote: > > Jim, I?d try to design something heavy like they use in timber framing. If you use plate steel rather than sheet metal that would lay on top of the joint with sides on both sides of each member that could be through bolted to pinch the 2xs between the steel. You might consider welding the nuts in place so you don?t have to work a wrench in there while assembling. > > Peace, > Pat > > Pat Horne > We support Habitat for Humanity > > > On Jul 12, 2020, at 11:49 AM, Jim Franklin wrote: > > ?Hope you're all avoiding the ridiculous heat. I am buidling a deck like the rest of the nation, so my tshirt tan will be well developed in a few weeks. > > I'm trying to connect two double 2x beams to each other. They meet at about 33 degrees from parallel. Simpson doesn't have anything that I can find that works outside the 45-90 range. Since any fasteners will be near the end of the angled beam, I'm hesitant to drive something like Ledger Loks through for fear of splitting it. I don't have a way to support it from underneath, it can only hang from the main beam with a hanger that clamps over the top, or be face connected in shear. The angled beam is 8.5' long so it will have significant weight on it if the deck ever sees people. > > The other end of the angled beam isn't built yet, and it will be resting on its own post, so I could splay them such that the end in question uses two separate single beam connectors, but I come up empty there too except for a bendable angle bracket that I won't be able to fasten on the inside angle: > > http://embed.widencdn.net/pdf/plus/ssttoolbox/8yq2wqljay/C-C-2019-p284.pdf > > The other option is to have them meet at their cut faces over a post, but the post is a 4x6 and I don't know if that would be enough purchase to provide support. I would have to fasten everything into the post; there is no post-to-beam connector for beams meeting at 33 degrees. > > thanks, > jim > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com > From patintexas at icloud.com Sun Jul 12 12:02:04 2020 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2020 13:02:04 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] How to connect skewed beams? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <39E5E730-312F-4004-B925-A8C6BDBDCAA2@icloud.com> Well, there ya go! Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jul 12, 2020, at 12:50 PM, Jim Franklin wrote: ?I can't cut/weld steel like John suggested but I do have a friend who can. However, you've both jogged loose my thinking - I could rest them both on the post, tie them together at the top and both sides with a thin Simpson plate for tension, and use right angle brackets underneath both beams where they stop being supported by the post to extend the support. Best of all it's all off the shelf and galvanized (unless my friend "insists" on making me a custom one to support the beam existing at 33 degrees ;-) ). thanks, jim > On Jul 12, 2020, at 1:31 PM, Pat Horne wrote: > > Jim, I?d try to design something heavy like they use in timber framing. If you use plate steel rather than sheet metal that would lay on top of the joint with sides on both sides of each member that could be through bolted to pinch the 2xs between the steel. You might consider welding the nuts in place so you don?t have to work a wrench in there while assembling. > > Peace, > Pat > > Pat Horne > We support Habitat for Humanity > > > On Jul 12, 2020, at 11:49 AM, Jim Franklin wrote: > > ?Hope you're all avoiding the ridiculous heat. I am buidling a deck like the rest of the nation, so my tshirt tan will be well developed in a few weeks. > > I'm trying to connect two double 2x beams to each other. They meet at about 33 degrees from parallel. Simpson doesn't have anything that I can find that works outside the 45-90 range. Since any fasteners will be near the end of the angled beam, I'm hesitant to drive something like Ledger Loks through for fear of splitting it. I don't have a way to support it from underneath, it can only hang from the main beam with a hanger that clamps over the top, or be face connected in shear. The angled beam is 8.5' long so it will have significant weight on it if the deck ever sees people. > > The other end of the angled beam isn't built yet, and it will be resting on its own post, so I could splay them such that the end in question uses two separate single beam connectors, but I come up empty there too except for a bendable angle bracket that I won't be able to fasten on the inside angle: > > http://embed.widencdn.net/pdf/plus/ssttoolbox/8yq2wqljay/C-C-2019-p284.pdf > > The other option is to have them meet at their cut faces over a post, but the post is a 4x6 and I don't know if that would be enough purchase to provide support. I would have to fasten everything into the post; there is no post-to-beam connector for beams meeting at 33 degrees. > > thanks, > jim > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com > From peterwmurray at gmail.com Fri Jul 10 15:37:38 2020 From: peterwmurray at gmail.com (Peter Murray) Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2020 17:37:38 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Recommendations on yard sprayer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: In addition to spraying, take a look at Preen Weed Preventer. It is very effective at preventing germination, so the weeds never appear. -Peter On Fri, Jul 10, 2020 at 3:35 PM Paul Parkanzky wrote: > I'm working on creating a border around my barn so I can mow without > trimming so I've been researching the same issue. > > Most of those sprayers have an adjustment at the tip to go from a > stream to a wider pattern. Twisting the tip on that thing doesn't > change anything? > > If that doesn't work then get yourself another sprayer. Then buy > something like this: > > https://www.homedepot.com/p/RM43-32-oz-Total-Vegetation-Control-Weed-Killer-and-Preventer-Concentrate-76502/205748220 > > There are a ton of brands out there. Hose the area down with something > like that and everything will be dead within a couple weeks and stay > that way until next year. > > -Paul > > On Fri, Jul 10, 2020 at 2:52 PM Scott Hall > wrote: > > > > I have this thing: > > > > > https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/262df14e-86b7-4bdf-8f8f-da9499c09315_2.92f2350fc4e1bca90c0192173c0ef9a5.jpeg?odnWidth=undefined&odnHeight=undefined&odnBg=ffffff > > > > I'm trying to keep weeds at bay--in the driveway and near the garage, > and in those rocks in my previous post which sprout grass each spring. My > plan was to use that sprayer to hose down the rock garden with a mixture of > vinegar and salt and kill the little bastards before they germinated. > > > > That sprayer is useless for that--it produces a tiiny, thin spray that > is really only useful for individual tiny weeds in cracks in pavement. And > even that takes forever. > > > > The 'rocked area' is maybe 2000 sq. ft. total, and I want to inundate > the area--I pulled them all by hand this year or used a driveway/roofing > torch to burn them away but they're already re-sprouting. > > > > Anybody have a sprayer that can cover some area they recommend? > > > > Scott > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eric at megageek.com Thu Jul 16 13:02:53 2020 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2020 15:02:53 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] I HATE ROCKAUTO!!! (anyone else?) Message-ID: OK, this is a partial vent, but it's also a warning to anyone out there about Rockauto. THEY ARE HORRIBLE! First, item shipping varies so much depending what verison of the part you buy, that you spend more time trying to figure out what the shipping will be then actually finding the product (which is sometimes a pain.) I had a $365 shipping cost for a $45 part once (of course I didn't buy from them.) Then, if you have any issues with their products, GOOD LUCK! I got an oil pan and gasket from them. The oil pain is .15" too large to fit, but I couldn't tell this until I was trying to install it, which meant that the gasket was opened (and therefore not returnable.) So now I tried to return the pan, but they aren't able to tell me if the replacement will be the same one. Then, instead of sending me a replacement pan, they send me another gasket! So I want to return this gasket, but I have to pay for the shipping! Also, they default to Fedex which doesn't pick up at your h ouse, you have to bring it to them, which is about 45 mins away from me! So, now i'm out the shipping of all items, I have an oil pan that doesn't fit, and I still can't even speak to anyone at the company. I WILL NEVER USE THEM AGAIN!!!! Anyone else have the same experience? I've used them twice before and both times I had to re-select different options to not incur crazy shipping expenses. "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson -Who is John Galt? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jem at milleredp.com Thu Jul 16 13:18:48 2020 From: jem at milleredp.com (John Miller) Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2020 12:18:48 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] I HATE ROCKAUTO!!! (anyone else?) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On 7/16/2020 12:02 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote: > OK, this is a partial vent, but it's also a warning to anyone out there > about Rockauto. > > THEY ARE HORRIBLE! Actually, I've had very good luck with them, with some caveats. First off, yes, ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS check the shipping cost. It can vary hugely. Secondly, their 'vendor closeouts' or whatever they call them this week are often back-inventory that's been sitting on the shelf for a decade or returned four times because it wasn't the right part. You're spinning the dial if you buy one of those. Had some really weird and rusty crap show up. I've found their customer service quite reasonable. That six-dollar clutch slave cylinder that turns out to be utterly the wrong part they'll credit back, they don't want it back, it goes in the garbage. And their site more or less sets the standard for the industry in terms of general-purpose parts lookup. John. From gsteve at hammatt.com Thu Jul 16 13:25:48 2020 From: gsteve at hammatt.com (Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA) Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2020 12:25:48 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] I HATE ROCKAUTO!!! (anyone else?) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <97A88B9ADCA94C19B27B07BE5EB81891@DESKTOPTOA1F5G> Eric I?ve occasionally used Summit Racing Equipment, they?ve been excellent with fast response and shipping costs. Don?t know if they?d have what you?re looking for but may be worth a checkout for you. Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA www.leatherplates.com From: eric at megageek.com Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2020 12:02 PM To: Shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: [Shop-talk] I HATE ROCKAUTO!!! (anyone else?) OK, this is a partial vent, but it's also a warning to anyone out there about Rockauto. THEY ARE HORRIBLE! First, item shipping varies so much depending what verison of the part you buy, that you spend more time trying to figure out what the shipping will be then actually finding the product (which is sometimes a pain.) I had a $365 shipping cost for a $45 part once (of course I didn't buy from them.) Then, if you have any issues with their products, GOOD LUCK! I got an oil pan and gasket from them. The oil pain is .15" too large to fit, but I couldn't tell this until I was trying to install it, which meant that the gasket was opened (and therefore not returnable.) So now I tried to return the pan, but they aren't able to tell me if the replacement will be the same one. Then, instead of sending me a replacement pan, they send me another gasket! So I want to return this gasket, but I have to pay for the shipping! Also, they default to Fedex which doesn't pick up at your house, you have to bring it to them, which is about 45 mins away from me! So, now i'm out the shipping of all items, I have an oil pan that doesn't fit, and I still can't even speak to anyone at the company. I WILL NEVER USE THEM AGAIN!!!! Anyone else have the same experience? I've used them twice before and both times I had to re-select different options to not incur crazy shipping expenses. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jem at milleredp.com Thu Jul 16 13:40:47 2020 From: jem at milleredp.com (John Miller) Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2020 12:40:47 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] I HATE ROCKAUTO!!! (anyone else?) In-Reply-To: <97A88B9ADCA94C19B27B07BE5EB81891@DESKTOPTOA1F5G> References: <97A88B9ADCA94C19B27B07BE5EB81891@DESKTOPTOA1F5G> Message-ID: On 7/16/2020 12:25 PM, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA wrote: > Eric > I?ve occasionally used Summit Racing Equipment, > they?ve been excellent with fast response and shipping > costs.? Don?t know if they?d have what you?re looking for > but may be worth a checkout for you. If you're buying German car stuff RMEuropean moves faster than anyone else if they have what you need, FCP Euro, eeuroparts also reliable and there's others. Almost easier to get OEM/equivalent German than American. The new Febi brake pedal pad in our Merc GL550 cost $3.50 and came with a Merc part number on it. John. From parkanzky at gmail.com Thu Jul 16 13:42:20 2020 From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky) Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2020 15:42:20 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] I HATE ROCKAUTO!!! (anyone else?) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I used to struggle with spending tons of time finding the right combination of part price and shipping cost every time I ordered something. Then I needed lots of stuff for an engine replacement and I found a function on the parts search that optimizes it for you. It didn't do it exactly perfectly and I still did a bit of messing around to save a few more nickels but it made it way easier. I haven't done it in a year or two so I can't point you toward it but if you have a big order to make, reach out to their customer service and they'll probably be able to tell you how to optimize it. Regards, -Paul On Thu, Jul 16, 2020 at 3:03 PM wrote: > > OK, this is a partial vent, but it's also a warning to anyone out there about Rockauto. > > THEY ARE HORRIBLE! > > First, item shipping varies so much depending what verison of the part you buy, that you spend more time trying to figure out what the shipping will be then actually finding the product (which is sometimes a pain.) I had a $365 shipping cost for a $45 part once (of course I didn't buy from them.) > > Then, if you have any issues with their products, GOOD LUCK! > > I got an oil pan and gasket from them. The oil pain is .15" too large to fit, but I couldn't tell this until I was trying to install it, which meant that the gasket was opened (and therefore not returnable.) So now I tried to return the pan, but they aren't able to tell me if the replacement will be the same one. > Then, instead of sending me a replacement pan, they send me another gasket! So I want to return this gasket, but I have to pay for the shipping! Also, they default to Fedex which doesn't pick up at your house, you have to bring it to them, which is about 45 mins away from me! > So, now i'm out the shipping of all items, I have an oil pan that doesn't fit, and I still can't even speak to anyone at the company. > > I WILL NEVER USE THEM AGAIN!!!! > > Anyone else have the same experience? I've used them twice before and both times I had to re-select different options to not incur crazy shipping expenses. From jem at milleredp.com Thu Jul 16 13:48:51 2020 From: jem at milleredp.com (John Miller) Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2020 12:48:51 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] I HATE ROCKAUTO!!! (anyone else?) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On 7/16/2020 12:42 PM, Paul Parkanzky wrote: > I used to struggle with spending tons of time finding the right > combination of part price and shipping cost every time I ordered > something. They actually do a reasonable job of this, if you try to order multiple items it'll tell you where they're shipping from so you can fiddle with your order to get them all shipped together. It's not Amazon Prime (which you pay for anyway), but it works. Yeah, if it's a BIG order put it in your cart and email them and ask what they can do. John. From jmitch at snet.net Thu Jul 16 16:59:12 2020 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2020 18:59:12 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] I HATE ROCKAUTO!!! (anyone else?) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8ff56540-0e19-a32e-90d3-31c588061b93@snet.net> I've had very good luck with Rockauto.? The prices were usually as good Amazon when shipping was figured in and the website is much better at picking the correct parts for my GMC Denali.? I live in CT and shipping is generally 2 days or less.? Sorry that you had problems.?? John Mitchell On 7/16/2020 3:02 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote: > OK, this is a partial vent, but it's also a warning to anyone out > there about Rockauto. > > THEY ARE HORRIBLE! > > First, item shipping varies so much depending what verison of the part > you buy, that you spend more time trying to figure out what the > shipping will be then actually finding the product (which is sometimes > a pain.) ?I had a $365 shipping cost for a $45 part once (of course I > didn't buy from them.) > > Then, if you have any issues with their products, GOOD LUCK! > > I got an oil pan and gasket from them. ?The oil pain is .15" too large > to fit, but I couldn't tell this until I was trying to install it, > which meant that the gasket was opened (and therefore not returnable.) > ?So now I tried to return the pan, but they aren't able to tell me if > the replacement will be the same one. > Then, instead of sending me a replacement pan, they send me another > gasket! ?So I want to return this gasket, but I have to pay for the > shipping! ?Also, they default to Fedex which doesn't pick up at your > house, you have to bring it to them, which is about 45 mins away from me! > So, now i'm out the shipping of all items, I have an oil pan that > doesn't fit, and I still can't even speak to anyone at the company. > > I WILL NEVER USE THEM AGAIN!!!! > > Anyone else have the same experience? ?I've used them twice before and > both times I had to re-select different options to not incur crazy > shipping expenses. > > > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a > rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your > territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson > -Who is John Galt? > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jmitch at snet.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrochlin at comcast.net Fri Jul 17 08:00:45 2020 From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Rochlin Robert) Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2020 10:00:45 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] I HATE ROCKAUTO!!! (anyone else?) In-Reply-To: <8ff56540-0e19-a32e-90d3-31c588061b93@snet.net> References: <8ff56540-0e19-a32e-90d3-31c588061b93@snet.net> Message-ID: <3337D6F6-1706-4F45-9E33-1D6195C91707@comcast.net> I?ve grown careful of my dealings with RockAuto. Many times they have the lowest price on the face of it and great product descriptions, but when you put an order together the shipping sometimes negates the savings. The last time I had a problem with RockAuto and was trying to get some assistance there was a dialog box along the way that said the site was fully automated and that there was no in person customer service. I believe there was a list with about every issue you could possibly have and a step by step to go through and resolve it. I was able to resolve my issue in this fashion. On the other end of the spectrum I got an OEM bumper for my truck at over $200 under the dealer price and the shipping was about $30.00 on that item. Best, Bob > On Jul 16, 2020, at 6:59 PM, John Mitchell wrote: > > I've had very good luck with Rockauto. The prices were usually as good Amazon when shipping was figured in and the website is much better at picking the correct parts for my GMC Denali. I live in CT and shipping is generally 2 days or less. Sorry that you had problems. John Mitchell > > On 7/16/2020 3:02 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote: >> OK, this is a partial vent, but it's also a warning to anyone out there about Rockauto. >> >> THEY ARE HORRIBLE! >> >> First, item shipping varies so much depending what verison of the part you buy, that you spend more time trying to figure out what the shipping will be then actually finding the product (which is sometimes a pain.) I had a $365 shipping cost for a $45 part once (of course I didn't buy from them.) >> >> Then, if you have any issues with their products, GOOD LUCK! >> >> I got an oil pan and gasket from them. The oil pain is .15" too large to fit, but I couldn't tell this until I was trying to install it, which meant that the gasket was opened (and therefore not returnable.) So now I tried to return the pan, but they aren't able to tell me if the replacement will be the same one. >> Then, instead of sending me a replacement pan, they send me another gasket! So I want to return this gasket, but I have to pay for the shipping! Also, they default to Fedex which doesn't pick up at your house, you have to bring it to them, which is about 45 mins away from me! >> So, now i'm out the shipping of all items, I have an oil pan that doesn't fit, and I still can't even speak to anyone at the company. >> >> I WILL NEVER USE THEM AGAIN!!!! >> >> Anyone else have the same experience? I've used them twice before and both times I had to re-select different options to not incur crazy shipping expenses. >> >> >> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson >> -Who is John Galt? >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jmitch at snet.net >> > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rrochlin at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jul 17 08:36:21 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2020 07:36:21 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] I HATE ROCKAUTO!!! (anyone else?) In-Reply-To: <3337D6F6-1706-4F45-9E33-1D6195C91707@comcast.net> References: <8ff56540-0e19-a32e-90d3-31c588061b93@snet.net> <3337D6F6-1706-4F45-9E33-1D6195C91707@comcast.net> Message-ID: One problem with buying parts online is fraud perpetrated by customers. We bought eight coils for our Lincoln LS--they have a well-known problem with coils--from RA and at least a couple of them were defective and apparently used (RA accepted the returns and refunded us completely). The fairly generous return policies allow unscrupulous customers to return their old parts in the new boxes and get credit, effectively getting the parts for free. Most parts houses appear to just put the returns back on the shelf without checking that they were the new parts. I had a similar problem with a brake slave cylinder from a specialty parts house. Bob On 7/17/2020 7:00 AM, Rochlin Robert wrote: > I?ve grown careful of my dealings with ?RockAuto. ?Many times they > have the lowest price on the face of it and great product > descriptions, but when you put an order together the shipping > sometimes negates the savings. ?The last time I had a problem with > RockAuto and was trying to get some assistance there was a dialog box > along the way that said the site was fully automated and that there > was no in person customer service. I believe there was a list with > about every issue you could possibly have and a step by step to go > through ?and resolve it. I was able to resolve my issue in this > fashion. ?On the other end of the spectrum I got an OEM bumper for my > truck at over $200 under the dealer price and the shipping was about > $30.00 on that item. > Best, > Bob > >> On Jul 16, 2020, at 6:59 PM, John Mitchell > > wrote: >> >> I've had very good luck with Rockauto.? The prices were usually as >> good Amazon when shipping was figured in and the website is much >> better at picking the correct parts for my GMC Denali.? I live in CT >> and shipping is generally 2 days or less.? Sorry that you had >> problems.?? John Mitchell >> >> On 7/16/2020 3:02 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote: >>> OK, this is a partial vent, but it's also a warning to anyone out >>> there about Rockauto. >>> >>> THEY ARE HORRIBLE! >>> >>> First, item shipping varies so much depending what verison of the >>> part you buy, that you spend more time trying to figure out what the >>> shipping will be then actually finding the product (which is >>> sometimes a pain.) ?I had a $365 shipping cost for a $45 part once >>> (of course I didn't buy from them.) >>> >>> Then, if you have any issues with their products, GOOD LUCK! >>> >>> I got an oil pan and gasket from them. ?The oil pain is .15" too >>> large to fit, but I couldn't tell this until I was trying to install >>> it, which meant that the gasket was opened (and therefore not >>> returnable.) ?So now I tried to return the pan, but they aren't able >>> to tell me if the replacement will be the same one. >>> Then, instead of sending me a replacement pan, they send me another >>> gasket! ?So I want to return this gasket, but I have to pay for the >>> shipping! ?Also, they default to Fedex which doesn't pick up at your >>> house, you have to bring it to them, which is about 45 mins away >>> from me! >>> So, now i'm out the shipping of all items, I have an oil pan that >>> doesn't fit, and I still can't even speak to anyone at the company. >>> >>> I WILL NEVER USE THEM AGAIN!!!! >>> >>> Anyone else have the same experience? ?I've used them twice before >>> and both times I had to re-select different options to not incur >>> crazy shipping expenses. >>> >>> >>> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a >>> rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your >>> territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson >>> -Who is John Galt? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dirtbeard at gmail.com Fri Jul 17 08:51:44 2020 From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard) Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2020 07:51:44 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Rock Auto - I actually like them a lot Message-ID: Hi guys, I have found Rock Auto to be my preferred online vendor for many/most maintenance parts (filters, gaskets, etc.). They have very low prices, a great selection, and often provide multiple levels of quality, different manufacturers, and oftentimes the manufacturer origin. You can compare a Delco product to a Borg Warner, a replacement grade versus HD, performance or "police grade," for the same part. If you look at rear main seals for GM 4.3L V6, there are a dozen different options, all at lower prices than what others have. I have been able to source oil filter from them for my 1972 BSA with a Norton external oil filter (one that takes an element from a Citroen). The problem gets when you are ordering different parts that are shipping from different originations, the shipping can add up, and as some else said, just call them or message them and they will help out. I usually buy 6 filters, or a dozen bulbs at a time, for example, to take advantage of the low cost and bulk shipping. Rock Auto has saved me a great deal of money over the years and has enabled me to obtain higher quality, and USA made products, when I otherwise would not have been able to do so. Someone else mentioned Summit Racing, who I like very much, too, particularly for aftermarket and performance items. I highly recommend Rock Auto to my friends, particularly for bulk purchases of maintenance parts. best, doug -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gsteve at hammatt.com Sat Jul 18 12:32:49 2020 From: gsteve at hammatt.com (Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA) Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2020 11:32:49 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Looking for replacement electric cord male end (w/ flat rotating design) Message-ID: I?m trying to retro-fit a piece of equipment with a new male plug, but it must have a flat, rotating design. 15A, 120V standard w/ grnd USA plug design. Doesn?t seem like it?s available.........anybody familiar with what I?m looking for? The key is the flat design, close to wall exit out the left side. Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA www.leatherplates.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From patintexas at icloud.com Sat Jul 18 12:42:37 2020 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2020 13:42:37 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Looking for replacement electric cord male end (w/ flat rotating design) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <28D91C91-A53A-4D6E-9F6A-CABE87AE6C1A@icloud.com> How flat? Check out Leviton 8215. I think the back shell can be rotated. If you can?t find exactly what you are looking for an extension cord or power strip with the correct plug & wire gauge. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jul 18, 2020, at 1:33 PM, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA wrote: ? I?m trying to retro-fit a piece of equipment with a new male plug, but it must have a flat, rotating design. 15A, 120V standard w/ grnd USA plug design. Doesn?t seem like it?s available.........anybody familiar with what I?m looking for? The key is the flat design, close to wall exit out the left side. Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA www.leatherplates.com _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From patintexas at icloud.com Sat Jul 18 12:43:37 2020 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2020 13:43:37 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Looking for replacement electric cord male end (w/ flat rotating design) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6E401B20-9979-478C-B6BC-7FDB584AD077@icloud.com> Oops, that should have 8215-CAT Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jul 18, 2020, at 1:33 PM, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA wrote: ? I?m trying to retro-fit a piece of equipment with a new male plug, but it must have a flat, rotating design. 15A, 120V standard w/ grnd USA plug design. Doesn?t seem like it?s available.........anybody familiar with what I?m looking for? The key is the flat design, close to wall exit out the left side. Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA www.leatherplates.com _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From patintexas at icloud.com Sat Jul 18 12:48:36 2020 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2020 13:48:36 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Looking for replacement electric cord male end (w/ flat rotating design) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <55DC507D-1430-406E-9141-3133899017C5@icloud.com> Leviton 5266-CA rotates. Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jul 18, 2020, at 1:33 PM, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA wrote: ? I?m trying to retro-fit a piece of equipment with a new male plug, but it must have a flat, rotating design. 15A, 120V standard w/ grnd USA plug design. Doesn?t seem like it?s available.........anybody familiar with what I?m looking for? The key is the flat design, close to wall exit out the left side. Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA www.leatherplates.com _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tjcora at icloud.com Sat Jul 18 12:58:48 2020 From: tjcora at icloud.com (Thomas Coradeschi) Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2020 14:58:48 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Looking for replacement electric cord male end (w/ flat rotating design) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0A832AE0-F471-44D7-87E7-E23969C7D94A@icloud.com> Something like what?s on this page? https://www.grainger.com/category/electrical/electrical-supplies/plugs-and-connectors/straight-blade-plugs#WP8082072 Tom Coradeschi tjcora at icloud.com > On Jul 18, 2020, at 2:33 PM, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA wrote: > > ? > I?m trying to retro-fit a piece of equipment with a new male plug, but > it must have a flat, rotating design. 15A, 120V standard w/ grnd USA plug design. > Doesn?t seem like it?s available.........anybody familiar with what I?m looking > for? The key is the flat design, close to wall exit out the left side. > > Steve Hammatt > Mount Vernon WA USA > www.leatherplates.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tjcora at icloud.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From berry at kerch.com Sat Jul 18 14:13:42 2020 From: berry at kerch.com (Berry Kercheval) Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2020 13:13:42 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Looking for replacement electric cord male end (w/ flat rotating design) In-Reply-To: <0A832AE0-F471-44D7-87E7-E23969C7D94A@icloud.com> References: <0A832AE0-F471-44D7-87E7-E23969C7D94A@icloud.com> Message-ID: Is this suitable? https://www.delcity.net/store/15A-Right-Angle-Plug/p_789340.h_789341.r_IF1003?&mkwid=s&crid=445561746383&mp_kw=&mp_mt=b&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8tL9kc7X6gIVqxatBh3k-wx6EAAYASAAEgLT1vD_BwE On Sat, Jul 18, 2020 at 11:59 AM Thomas Coradeschi wrote: > Something like what?s on this page? > > > https://www.grainger.com/category/electrical/electrical-supplies/plugs-and-connectors/straight-blade-plugs#WP8082072 > > Tom Coradeschi > tjcora at icloud.com > > > On Jul 18, 2020, at 2:33 PM, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA < > gsteve at hammatt.com> wrote: > > ? > I?m trying to retro-fit a piece of equipment with a new male plug, but > it must have a flat, rotating design. 15A, 120V standard w/ grnd USA plug > design. > Doesn?t seem like it?s available.........anybody familiar with what I?m > looking > for? The key is the flat design, close to wall exit out the left side. > > Steve Hammatt > Mount Vernon WA USA > www.leatherplates.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tjcora at icloud.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/berry at kerch.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bobkegel at comcast.net Sun Jul 19 09:45:11 2020 From: bobkegel at comcast.net (Bob Kegel) Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2020 08:45:11 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Looking for replacement electric cord male end (w/ flatrotating design) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Search Am at zon for ?90 degree plug adapter.? Bob K From: Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2020 11:33 To: Shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: [Shop-talk] Looking for replacement electric cord male end (w/ flatrotating design) I?m trying to retro-fit a piece of equipment with a new male plug, but it must have a flat, rotating design.? 15A, 120V standard w/ grnd USA plug design.? Doesn?t seem like it?s available.........anybody familiar with what I?m looking for?? The key is the flat design, close to wall exit out the left side. ? Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA www.leatherplates.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bk13 at earthlink.net Sun Jul 19 16:00:12 2020 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2020 15:00:12 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Looking for replacement electric cord male end (w/ flat rotating design) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I second the reply about looking for an extension cord or power strip that has the right plug already on it.? Not sure about a rotating design, but here is a sample of a power strip with an offset plug for less than then cost of a new do it yourself plug. https://www.homedepot.com/p/4-ft-6-Outlet-Power-Strip-with-45-Angle-Plug-YLPT-90/203353677 Brian On 7/18/2020 11:32 AM, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA wrote: > I?m trying to retro-fit a piece of equipment with a new male plug, but > it must have a flat, rotating design.? 15A, 120V standard w/ grnd USA > plug design. > Doesn?t seem like it?s available.........anybody familiar with what > I?m looking > for?? The key is the flat design, close to wall exit out the left side. > Steve Hammatt > Mount Vernon WA USA > www.leatherplates.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com Mon Jul 20 09:18:36 2020 From: tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com (Tim .) Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 15:18:36 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] audio system inquiry Message-ID: Hi all, Totally off topic but you all are a diverse group so I am hoping that someone might have an idea. My office holds administrative law hearings. Most are now done via video but one type has to be done in person. We are in need of some sort of portable sound system for voice amplification for the parties who will be many feet apart and also behind plastic shielding. Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks tim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jblair1948 at cox.net Mon Jul 20 09:31:32 2020 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 11:31:32 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] audio system inquiry In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20200720112910.0498ea30@cox.net> At 11:18 AM 7/20/2020, Tim . wrote: >My office holds administrative law hearings. Most are now done via video but one >type has to be done in person. We are in need of some sort of portable sound >system for voice amplification for the parties who will be many feet apart and also >behind plastic shielding. Tim, This may be a simple, stupid suggestion, but what about just a conference call to peoples cell phones? No cost to your company or any body. I just don't know how many people you can have on a converence call. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy: e pluribus Unum, "from many, one." In God We Trust Liberty - the power of choosing, thinking, and acting for oneself; freedom from control or restriction -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ejrussell at mebtel.net Mon Jul 20 09:33:18 2020 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell) Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 11:33:18 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] audio system inquiry In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8d843950-8fe1-c40f-746e-f2e102f0db5c@mebtel.net> You said 'any'... https://youtu.be/GwSh0dAaqIA Eric Russell Mebane, NC On 7/20/2020 11:18 AM, Tim . wrote: > Any suggestions appreciated. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lotuseuropa at me.com Mon Jul 20 09:57:18 2020 From: lotuseuropa at me.com (ml) Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 11:57:18 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] audio system inquiry Message-ID: Something like these perhaps? https://www.proacousticsusa.com/commercial-sound-equipment/assisted-listening-devices-systems/assisted-listening-systems/tour-guide-systems.html -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org Mon Jul 20 11:42:28 2020 From: shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org (Ian McFetridge) Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 13:42:28 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] audio system inquiry In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20200720112910.0498ea30@cox.net> References: <6.2.5.6.1.20200720112910.0498ea30@cox.net> Message-ID: The below link might be helpful as I think a big issue would be feedback when Group A is speaking and another noise gets amplified (maybe group B, HVAC, nearby people, etc.). You would use a Polycom (or equivalent) for each group and the "acoustic fence" technology to avoid feedback and get clear amplification of voices. I believe it can be setup as two IP phones on one portable switch, so self-contained. I don't work for them, but I remembered looking at this tech a few years ago (we went with Ci$co, which I would not recommend for this use). https://www.polycom.com/content/dam/polycom/common/documents/whitepapers/wainhouse-research-evaluation-of-polycoms-noise-reduction-features-enus.pdf Best, Ian -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tjcora at icloud.com Mon Jul 20 14:22:42 2020 From: tjcora at icloud.com (Thomas Coradeschi) Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 16:22:42 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] audio system inquiry Message-ID: <6148DE01-28C3-44B3-9C51-9156E1DB7C3E@icloud.com> So, I have no idea what your budget is or any of the rest. We have leased systems to be used for simultaneous translation in multi-language meetings and they are pretty incredible. Each attendee has a microphone and a wireless headset (set to one of several frequencies, depending on what language you want to listen in). I don?t see why you could not use the same basic technology in a single language application, and, in fact, given that all are speaking one language, you could probably dispense with the headphones and use a speaker array. Shure & Bosch are two brands I?ve seen in use, I am sure that there are others. Tom Coradeschi tjcora at icloud.com > On Jul 20, 2020, at 11:19 AM, Tim . wrote: > From mark at bradakis.com Mon Jul 20 17:44:29 2020 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 17:44:29 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] audio system inquiry In-Reply-To: <8d843950-8fe1-c40f-746e-f2e102f0db5c@mebtel.net> References: <8d843950-8fe1-c40f-746e-f2e102f0db5c@mebtel.net> Message-ID: Just make sure you have enough speakers. mjb. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: wall_of_sound.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 427734 bytes Desc: not available URL: From peterwmurray at gmail.com Mon Jul 20 18:54:40 2020 From: peterwmurray at gmail.com (Peter Murray) Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 20:54:40 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] audio system inquiry In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Conference bridge services probably wouldn't satisfy the privacy requirements that your hearings have. How many people simultaneously? Is there a budget for this? If you have a local office phone system, you should be able to have a good-sized conference bridge between phones. If the system allows SIP calls, you could get users connected using the Zoiper softphone client or similar. If there is no local phone system (and/or you have to pay per extension), and you have some IT/technical ability, you could quickly put in a FreePBX system on a desktop machine and use softphones locally for a conference bridge. Shouldn't cost anything for software. -Peter On Mon, Jul 20, 2020 at 11:19 AM Tim . wrote: > Hi all, > > Totally off topic but you all are a diverse group so I am hoping that > someone might have an idea. > > My office holds administrative law hearings. Most are now done via video > but one type has to be done in person. We are in need of some sort of > portable sound system for voice amplification for the parties who will be > many feet apart and also behind plastic shielding. > > Any suggestions appreciated. > > Thanks > tim > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Mon Jul 20 18:55:40 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2020 00:55:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] audio system inquiry In-Reply-To: References: <8d843950-8fe1-c40f-746e-f2e102f0db5c@mebtel.net> Message-ID: <679364843.3274087.1595292940365@mail.yahoo.com> Hey Mark, thanks for the picture of your living room.? I'll bet Buffy Ste. Marie sounds really great on that. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Mark J Bradakis To: shop-talk at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, Jul 20, 2020 6:44 pm Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] audio system inquiry Just make sure you have enough speakers. mjb. _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Mon Jul 20 19:02:05 2020 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 19:02:05 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] audio system inquiry In-Reply-To: <679364843.3274087.1595292940365@mail.yahoo.com> References: <8d843950-8fe1-c40f-746e-f2e102f0db5c@mebtel.net> <679364843.3274087.1595292940365@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On 7/20/20 6:55 PM, DAVID MASSEY wrote: > Hey Mark, thanks for the picture of your living room.? I'll bet Buffy > Ste. Marie sounds really great on that. > > Dave > > Especially when she wears scarlet begonias in her hair.? She's not like other girls. mjb. From fishplate at gmail.com Mon Jul 20 19:37:26 2020 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 21:37:26 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] audio system inquiry In-Reply-To: References: <8d843950-8fe1-c40f-746e-f2e102f0db5c@mebtel.net> Message-ID: On Mon, Jul 20, 2020 at 7:45 PM Mark J Bradakis wrote: > > Just make sure you have enough speakers. I saw that tour... Miami, summer of 74. Probably the Saturday show, and not the legendary Sunday show. But who remembers? From kentsu at corvairkid.com Mon Jul 20 20:28:39 2020 From: kentsu at corvairkid.com (The Corvair Kid) Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 19:28:39 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Wanted: Socket rail clips Message-ID: <04a001d65f06$a57fffc0$f07fff40$@corvairkid.com> To close the loop on this, I found socket rail clips, in reasonable quantities (5 and 10 packs), that appear to be identical to the Carlyle / NAPA brand at (drum roll ) Sears, of all places: https://www.sears.com/Craftsman-STUDSSKT-REPLACEMENT-1-2--00941848000/p-0094 1848000P https://www.sears.com/taj-tools-nylon-1-2'-socket-holder-rail-clips/p-A06834 2108 --Kent From: kentsu at corvairkid.com Sent: Wednesday, January 1, 2020 10:43 PM To: shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: Wanted: Socket rail clips Hi, My older son got me all fixed up with a set of Carlyle (NAPA) socket rails and clips for Christmas. Wouldn?t you know that I am short 2 of the ?? drive clips? https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CHQSR12RC They are only sold in bags of 25 or so I really don?t want to buy a whole bag since the others will just go to waste. (What?! Yes, I am admitting that my collection of sockets does not grow continually.) Anyone out there have a two extra of these? I have 10+ of the 3/8? size to offer anyone in need Happy New Year, --Kent -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jniolon at att.net Tue Jul 21 06:05:12 2020 From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon) Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2020 07:05:12 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Wanted: Socket rail clips In-Reply-To: <04a001d65f06$a57fffc0$f07fff40$@corvairkid.com> References: <04a001d65f06$a57fffc0$f07fff40$@corvairkid.com> Message-ID: <1UWD1P2w3g.1XvhSzdJqpM@johns-desktop> these might be a good match... I use there whole system for sockets and wrenches https://www.ernstmfg.com/Socket-Organizers.aspx?pi=2 john ----- Original Message ----- From: The Corvair Kid To: Sent: 7/20/2020 9:28:39 PM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Wanted: Socket rail clips To close the loop on this, I found socket rail clips, in reasonable quantities (5 and 10 packs), that appear to be identical to the Carlyle / NAPA brand at (drum roll?) Sears, of all places: https://www.sears.com/Craftsman-STUDSSKT-REPLACEMENT-1-2--00941848000/p- 00941848000P https://www.sears.com/taj-tools-nylon-1-2'-socket-holder-rail-clips/p-A068342108 --Kent From: kentsu at corvairkid.com Sent: Wednesday, January 1, 2020 10:43 PM To: shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: Wanted: Socket rail clips Hi, My older son got me all fixed up with a set of Carlyle (NAPA) socket rails and clips for Christmas. Wouldn?t you know that I am short 2 of the ?? drive clips? https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CHQSR12RC They are only sold in bags of 25 or so? I really don?t want to buy a whole bag since the others will just go to waste. (What?! Yes, I am admitting that my collection of sockets does not grow continually.) Anyone out there have a two extra of these? I have 10+ of the 3/8? size to offer anyone in need? Happy New Year, --Kent -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Tue Jul 21 08:35:19 2020 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2020 08:35:19 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] On to wrenches Message-ID: <6b37c552-338b-af09-fbe1-9bb4a85538bb@bradakis.com> I got burned out on cars some years ago, garage has become basically a giant kitchen junk drawer, so to speak.? But I'm getting inspired, have actually done a bit of work on LBCs lately. I'm fired up to get the garage cleaned and organized once again, get cars back on the road. Tools storage is always an issue.? For the moment, wrenches.? I need to get them organized.? I have a lot of them.?? I wonder what those red plastic thingies with the notches in them are for? mjb. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200721_082227.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 516849 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200721_082248.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 359192 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200721_082208.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 543940 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jniolon at att.net Tue Jul 21 08:45:15 2020 From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon) Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2020 09:45:15 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] On to wrenches In-Reply-To: <6b37c552-338b-af09-fbe1-9bb4a85538bb@bradakis.com> References: <6b37c552-338b-af09-fbe1-9bb4a85538bb@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <1UWD1QfdiZ.2MCLfcYvXlb@johns-desktop> I understand Mark.. I went thru that a while back and used Ernst Mfg socket and wrench sets and never looked back john ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark J Bradakis To: Shop-talk at autox.team.net Sent: 7/21/2020 9:35:19 AM Subject: [Shop-talk] On to wrenches ________________________________________________________________________________ I got burned out on cars some years ago, garage has become basically a giant kitchen junk drawer, so to speak. But I'm getting inspired, have actually done a bit of work on LBCs lately. I'm fired up to get the garage cleaned and organized once again, get cars back on the road. Tools storage is always an issue. For the moment, wrenches. I need to get them organized. I have a lot of them. I wonder what those red plastic thingies with the notches in them are for? mjb. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: tools5.jpg Type: image/pjpeg Size: 121470 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: tools9.jpg Type: image/pjpeg Size: 130293 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: tools18.jpg Type: image/pjpeg Size: 163349 bytes Desc: not available URL: From marka at maracing.com Tue Jul 21 09:08:09 2020 From: marka at maracing.com (Mark Andy) Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2020 11:08:09 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] On to wrenches In-Reply-To: <6b37c552-338b-af09-fbe1-9bb4a85538bb@bradakis.com> References: <6b37c552-338b-af09-fbe1-9bb4a85538bb@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Howdy, I do a hybrid between "junk drawer" and "organized"... I use a couple organizers for my 'main' metric and standard wrench drawers, then have another drawer for each that's just got 'other wrenches' thrown in. Works for me, but taking a look at those Ernst wrench rails, I might do something a little more custom... Mark On Tue, Jul 21, 2020 at 10:36 AM Mark J Bradakis wrote: > I got burned out on cars some years ago, garage has become basically a > giant kitchen junk drawer, so to speak. But I'm getting inspired, have > actually done a bit of work on LBCs lately. I'm fired up to get the > garage cleaned and organized once again, get cars back on the road. > > Tools storage is always an issue. For the moment, wrenches. I need to > get them organized. I have a lot of them. I wonder what those red > plastic thingies with the notches in them are for? > > mjb. > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/marka at maracing.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dirtbeard at gmail.com Tue Jul 21 09:13:18 2020 From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard) Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2020 15:13:18 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] On to wrenches In-Reply-To: References: <6b37c552-338b-af09-fbe1-9bb4a85538bb@bradakis.com>, Message-ID: ________________________________ This approach works well for me... Best, Doug From: Shop-talk on behalf of Mark Andy Sent: Tuesday, July 21, 2020 8:08:09 AM To: ShopTalk Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] On to wrenches Howdy, I do a hybrid between "junk drawer" and "organized"... I use a couple organizers for my 'main' metric and standard wrench drawers, then have another drawer for each that's just got 'other wrenches' thrown in. Works for me, but taking a look at those Ernst wrench rails, I might do something a little more custom... Mark On Tue, Jul 21, 2020 at 10:36 AM Mark J Bradakis > wrote: I got burned out on cars some years ago, garage has become basically a giant kitchen junk drawer, so to speak. But I'm getting inspired, have actually done a bit of work on LBCs lately. I'm fired up to get the garage cleaned and organized once again, get cars back on the road. Tools storage is always an issue. For the moment, wrenches. I need to get them organized. I have a lot of them. I wonder what those red plastic thingies with the notches in them are for? mjb. _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/marka at maracing.com [Image] -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20200721_081046.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1573526 bytes Desc: IMG_20200721_081046.jpg URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Tue Jul 21 09:21:03 2020 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2020 11:21:03 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] On to wrenches In-Reply-To: References: <6b37c552-338b-af09-fbe1-9bb4a85538bb@bradakis.com> Message-ID: On Tue, Jul 21, 2020 at 11:08 AM Mark Andy wrote: > > I do a hybrid between "junk drawer" and "organized"... I use a couple organizers for my 'main' metric and standard wrench drawers, then have another drawer for each that's just got 'other wrenches' thrown in. Back when I was a professional schmieraffe, I had a very organized tool box. Time was money, and so it was important that I could find any tool quickly, often without looking, and at the end of each job, I could scan the toolbox and make sure they were all in place, and not in the engine compartment of a 1973 VW Bus (bye-bye, 22mm wrench!). Nowadays, I have a lot more tools in the same space, so they'd got like Mark's. I picked up a nice Craftsman top box, and used it to spread out the most-used tools so once again I can find what I need, mostly, as soon as I can remember which draw is the screwdriver drawer, and which is pliers. Unfortunately, the top box is wider than my Mac bottom box by a few inches, so it looks odd. No more deals on a box that's the same quality as the top box... and so it goes... Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From marka at maracing.com Tue Jul 21 09:27:50 2020 From: marka at maracing.com (Mark Andy) Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2020 11:27:50 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] On to wrenches In-Reply-To: References: <6b37c552-338b-af09-fbe1-9bb4a85538bb@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Howdy, I forgot the link to the organizer I use... https://www.harborfreight.com/76-piece-wrench-organizer-46884.html?_br_psugg_q=wrench+organizer But like I said, I liked the look of those Ernst rails, so I just ordered a set. :) Mark On Tue, Jul 21, 2020 at 11:08 AM Mark Andy wrote: > Howdy, > > I do a hybrid between "junk drawer" and "organized"... I use a couple > organizers for my 'main' metric and standard wrench drawers, then have > another drawer for each that's just got 'other wrenches' thrown in. > > Works for me, but taking a look at those Ernst wrench rails, I might do > something a little more custom... > > Mark > > On Tue, Jul 21, 2020 at 10:36 AM Mark J Bradakis > wrote: > >> I got burned out on cars some years ago, garage has become basically a >> giant kitchen junk drawer, so to speak. But I'm getting inspired, have >> actually done a bit of work on LBCs lately. I'm fired up to get the >> garage cleaned and organized once again, get cars back on the road. >> >> Tools storage is always an issue. For the moment, wrenches. I need to >> get them organized. I have a lot of them. I wonder what those red >> plastic thingies with the notches in them are for? >> >> mjb. >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/marka at maracing.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jem at milleredp.com Tue Jul 21 10:18:43 2020 From: jem at milleredp.com (John Miller) Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2020 09:18:43 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] On to wrenches In-Reply-To: <1UWD1QfdiZ.2MCLfcYvXlb@johns-desktop> References: <6b37c552-338b-af09-fbe1-9bb4a85538bb@bradakis.com> <1UWD1QfdiZ.2MCLfcYvXlb@johns-desktop> Message-ID: <100b756e-5d8b-efb1-2a5d-89f802bb2ec4@milleredp.com> On 7/21/2020 7:45 AM, john niolon wrote: > I understand Mark.. I went thru that a while back and used Ernst Mfg socket and wrench sets and never looked back > I have everything and anything...from 1930s Herbrand Van-Chrome to '50s Craftsman and '60s Proto to last week's Harbor Freight and Amazon and a ton of stuff I've done off eBay. I gave up. I have a 'metric drawer' that's about to get partitioned a little better and a 'SAE drawer' likewise. I don't have one of anything and often need/want something specific so slotting things in a rack just doesn't work. Unless I had a lot more drawer space. Sockets are better partitioned. I try to keep at least five of every size from 6mm/1/4in up to an inch/25mm deep, short, etc. Fewer of the big ones, though I should buy more. John. From kennedybc at comcast.net Tue Jul 21 11:14:37 2020 From: kennedybc at comcast.net (brianlpro) Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2020 10:14:37 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] On to wrenches In-Reply-To: <100b756e-5d8b-efb1-2a5d-89f802bb2ec4@milleredp.com> References: <6b37c552-338b-af09-fbe1-9bb4a85538bb@bradakis.com> <1UWD1QfdiZ.2MCLfcYvXlb@johns-desktop> <100b756e-5d8b-efb1-2a5d-89f802bb2ec4@milleredp.com> Message-ID: <27E3BBCD-BABA-4D90-9966-9D60B4AD307F@comcast.net> I have a small, two car garage, so I don?t need to roll my tool chest around. I have a 2x12 beam where I can hang most of my wrenches. I also modify the round loop holders for a peg board and mount them on my work bench to hold screwdrivers, ice pick (on of my most valued tools), etc. Most frequently used sockets are in socket holders in the toolbox. The rest are the usual sort though drawers. I have used magnetic strips to mount tools as well leaving more room in the crowded toolbox. Brian Kennedy > On Jul 21, 2020, at 9:18 AM, John Miller wrote: > > On 7/21/2020 7:45 AM, john niolon wrote: >> I understand Mark.. I went thru that a while back and used Ernst Mfg socket and wrench sets and never looked back > > I have everything and anything...from 1930s Herbrand Van-Chrome to '50s Craftsman and '60s Proto to last week's Harbor Freight and Amazon and a ton of stuff I've done off eBay. I gave up. I have a 'metric drawer' that's about to get partitioned a little better and a 'SAE drawer' likewise. I don't have one of anything and often need/want something specific so slotting things in a rack just doesn't work. Unless I had a lot more drawer space. > > Sockets are better partitioned. I try to keep at least five of every size from 6mm/1/4in up to an inch/25mm deep, short, etc. Fewer of the big ones, though I should buy more. > > John. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jniolon at att.net Tue Jul 21 12:30:38 2020 From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon) Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2020 13:30:38 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] On to wrenches In-Reply-To: References: <6b37c552-338b-af09-fbe1-9bb4a85538bb@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <1UWD1THHfB.4ZFUjV3di7e@johns-desktop> how tall are you, Doug... I'd have to move those screwdrivers down some and put seldom used stuff up higher. The only thing I have against the wrench racks is usually I need two of a given size to do the work... so I have a pile of extras in front of the drawer. It's a little messy but you gotta do what you gotta do. These pics also remind me I need to update my tool pics since I've added and deleted some.... Insurance guy likes pictures ----- Original Message ----- From: old dirtbeard To: Mark Andy , ShopTalk Sent: 7/21/2020 10:13:18 AM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] On to wrenches This approach works well for me... Best, Doug From: Shop-talk on behalf of Mark Andy Sent: Tuesday, July 21, 2020 8:08:09 AM To: ShopTalk Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] On to wrenches Howdy, I do a hybrid between "junk drawer" and "organized"... I use a couple organizers for my 'main' metric and standard wrench drawers, then have another drawer for each that's just got 'other wrenches' thrown in. Works for me, but taking a look at those Ernst wrench rails, I might do something a little more custom... Mark On Tue, Jul 21, 2020 at 10:36 AM Mark J Bradakis wrote: I got burned out on cars some years ago, garage has become basically a giant kitchen junk drawer, so to speak. But I'm getting inspired, have actually done a bit of work on LBCs lately. I'm fired up to get the garage cleaned and organized once again, get cars back on the road. Tools storage is always an issue. For the moment, wrenches. I need to get them organized. I have a lot of them. I wonder what those red plastic thingies with the notches in them are for? mjb. _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop- talk/marka at maracing.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20200721_081046.jpg Type: image/pjpeg Size: 1573526 bytes Desc: not available URL: From dirtbeard at gmail.com Tue Jul 21 13:33:12 2020 From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard) Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2020 12:33:12 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] On to wrenches In-Reply-To: <1UWD1THHfB.4ZFUjV3di7e@johns-desktop> References: <6b37c552-338b-af09-fbe1-9bb4a85538bb@bradakis.com> <1UWD1THHfB.4ZFUjV3di7e@johns-desktop> Message-ID: I'm 6'1", but I tend to use the end wrenches more than the screwdrivers, and if I need a screwdriver, it usually is only one, where if I need end wrenches, I usually need at least two of them. I did the whole garage in pegboard and try to keep the tools next to where I usually use them. I find that having them on the wall is a clear way of knowing where they are (or are not). When they are supposed to be in a drawer (but are not), it can take a good deal of digging around to conclude that the wrench is not where it was supposed to be. I have not gone to the extreme of outlining the tool on the wall, though, as I have seen in some shops. :-) best, doug On Tue, Jul 21, 2020 at 11:30 AM john niolon wrote: > how tall are you, Doug... I'd have to move those screwdrivers down some > and put seldom used stuff up higher. The only thing I have against the > wrench racks > is usually I need two of a given size to do the work... so I have a pile > of extras in front of the drawer. It's a little messy but you gotta do > what you gotta do. > These pics also remind me I need to update my tool pics since I've added > and deleted some.... Insurance guy likes pictures > > > *----- Original Message -----* > *From:* old dirtbeard > *To:* Mark Andy , ShopTalk > *Sent:* 7/21/2020 10:13:18 AM > *Subject:* Re: [Shop-talk] On to wrenches > ------------------------------ > ------------------------------ > > *This approach works well for me...* > > *Best,* > > *Doug* > > *From:* Shop-talk on behalf of Mark > Andy > *Sent:* Tuesday, July 21, 2020 8:08:09 AM > *To:* ShopTalk > *Subject:* Re: [Shop-talk] On to wrenches > > Howdy, > > I do a hybrid between "junk drawer" and "organized"... I use a couple > organizers for my 'main' metric and standard wrench drawers, then have > another drawer for each that's just got 'other wrenches' thrown in. > > Works for me, but taking a look at those Ernst wrench rails, I might do > something a little more custom... > > Mark > > On Tue, Jul 21, 2020 at 10:36 AM Mark J Bradakis > wrote: > > I got burned out on cars some years ago, garage has become basically a > giant kitchen junk drawer, so to speak. But I'm getting inspired, have > actually done a bit of work on LBCs lately. I'm fired up to get the > garage cleaned and organized once again, get cars back on the road. > > Tools storage is always an issue. For the moment, wrenches. I need to > get them organized. I have a lot of them. I wonder what those red > plastic thingies with the notches in them are for? > > mjb. > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/marka at maracing.com > > [image: Image] > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20200721_081046.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1573526 bytes Desc: not available URL: From JIBrooks at live.com Tue Jul 21 17:32:55 2020 From: JIBrooks at live.com (Jack Brooks) Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2020 23:32:55 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] On to wrenches In-Reply-To: <6b37c552-338b-af09-fbe1-9bb4a85538bb@bradakis.com> References: <6b37c552-338b-af09-fbe1-9bb4a85538bb@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Like Doug, I hung all of my wrenches, screwdrivers, etc., on pegboard, often 5 or 6 deep. The only problem children were the combination wrenches I cut in half to work on the Triumph TR8 carbs. I needed a short swing and had an excess of wrenches I could shorten. I like having 6 or more of each, so I can leave them with my work until it is done. This way I don't have to go back to the workbench to find the right tool AGAIN! Jack -----Original Message----- From: Shop-talk On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Tuesday, July 21, 2020 7:35 AM To: Shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: [Shop-talk] On to wrenches I got burned out on cars some years ago, garage has become basically a giant kitchen junk drawer, so to speak.? But I'm getting inspired, have actually done a bit of work on LBCs lately. I'm fired up to get the garage cleaned and organized once again, get cars back on the road. Tools storage is always an issue.? For the moment, wrenches.? I need to get them organized.? I have a lot of them.?? I wonder what those red plastic thingies with the notches in them are for? mjb. From markmiller at threeboysfarm.com Tue Jul 21 19:36:11 2020 From: markmiller at threeboysfarm.com (Mark Miller) Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2020 18:36:11 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] On to wrenches In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <12a5a633-f1ad-757d-78f3-4022bef2a35c@threeboysfarm.com> I have a system that is quite ever fail.? I have a drawer filled with wrenches that are too small for the hardware to be removed and a second one filled with wrenches that are too large.? Then I curse and use slip joint pliers and then curse again. Plus I have a drawer that can convert screwdrivers from philips to slotted depending on which one you do not need. Regards, Mark Miller 707-490-5834 markmiller at threeboysfarm.com From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jul 21 20:03:38 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2020 19:03:38 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] On to wrenches In-Reply-To: <27E3BBCD-BABA-4D90-9966-9D60B4AD307F@comcast.net> References: <6b37c552-338b-af09-fbe1-9bb4a85538bb@bradakis.com> <1UWD1QfdiZ.2MCLfcYvXlb@johns-desktop> <100b756e-5d8b-efb1-2a5d-89f802bb2ec4@milleredp.com> <27E3BBCD-BABA-4D90-9966-9D60B4AD307F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <186dfd60-54c8-2a82-566e-3ddb55c0d8d4@comcast.net> I'm looking for an organizer that puts the tools back in their places for me. On 7/21/2020 10:14 AM, brianlpro wrote: > I have a small, two car garage, so I don?t need to roll my tool chest > around. I have a 2x12 beam where I can hang most of my wrenches. I > also modify the round loop holders for a peg board and mount them on > my work bench to hold screwdrivers, ice pick (on of my most valued > tools), etc. Most frequently used sockets are in socket holders in the > toolbox. The rest are the usual sort though drawers. I have used > magnetic strips to mount tools as well leaving more room in the > crowded toolbox. > > Brian Kennedy > >> On Jul 21, 2020, at 9:18 AM, John Miller > > wrote: >> >> On 7/21/2020 7:45 AM, john niolon wrote: >>> I understand Mark.. ?I went thru that a while back and used Ernst >>> Mfg socket and wrench sets and never looked back >> >> I have everything and anything...from 1930s Herbrand Van-Chrome to >> '50s Craftsman and '60s Proto to last week's Harbor Freight and >> Amazon and a ton of stuff I've done off eBay. ?I gave up. ?I have a >> 'metric drawer' that's about to get partitioned a little better and a >> 'SAE drawer' likewise. ?I don't have one of anything and often >> need/want something specific so slotting things in a rack just >> doesn't work. ?Unless I had a lot more drawer space. >> >> Sockets are better partitioned. ?I try to keep at least five of every >> size from 6mm/1/4in up to an inch/25mm deep, short, etc. ?Fewer of >> the big ones, though I should buy more. >> >> John. > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jamesf at groupwbench.org Tue Jul 21 20:22:29 2020 From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin) Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2020 22:22:29 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] On to wrenches In-Reply-To: <186dfd60-54c8-2a82-566e-3ddb55c0d8d4@comcast.net> References: <6b37c552-338b-af09-fbe1-9bb4a85538bb@bradakis.com> <1UWD1QfdiZ.2MCLfcYvXlb@johns-desktop> <100b756e-5d8b-efb1-2a5d-89f802bb2ec4@milleredp.com> <27E3BBCD-BABA-4D90-9966-9D60B4AD307F@comcast.net> <186dfd60-54c8-2a82-566e-3ddb55c0d8d4@comcast.net> Message-ID: <659ABFEB-84B5-4C88-BE50-F5C02F8ADCC0@groupwbench.org> I'm be happy for someone to just follow me around and jot down which room I put them down in. jim > On Jul 21, 2020, at 10:03 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > I'm looking for an organizer that puts the tools back in their places for me. > From JIBrooks at live.com Tue Jul 21 21:09:56 2020 From: JIBrooks at live.com (Jack Brooks) Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2020 03:09:56 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] On to wrenches In-Reply-To: <659ABFEB-84B5-4C88-BE50-F5C02F8ADCC0@groupwbench.org> References: <6b37c552-338b-af09-fbe1-9bb4a85538bb@bradakis.com> <1UWD1QfdiZ.2MCLfcYvXlb@johns-desktop> <100b756e-5d8b-efb1-2a5d-89f802bb2ec4@milleredp.com> <27E3BBCD-BABA-4D90-9966-9D60B4AD307F@comcast.net> <186dfd60-54c8-2a82-566e-3ddb55c0d8d4@comcast.net> <659ABFEB-84B5-4C88-BE50-F5C02F8ADCC0@groupwbench.org> Message-ID: Not Funny Jim. I am building a van out into an RV and spend too much of my time looking for stuff I just put down. You guys may be getting some build questions soon! Jack -----Original Message----- From: Shop-talk On Behalf Of Jim Franklin Sent: Tuesday, July 21, 2020 7:22 PM To: shop-talk Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] On to wrenches I'm be happy for someone to just follow me around and jot down which room I put them down in. jim > On Jul 21, 2020, at 10:03 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > I'm looking for an organizer that puts the tools back in their places for me. > _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibrooks at live.com From neiljsherry at talktalk.net Wed Jul 22 03:35:21 2020 From: neiljsherry at talktalk.net (Neil Sherry) Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2020 10:35:21 +0100 Subject: [Shop-talk] On to wrenches In-Reply-To: <12a5a633-f1ad-757d-78f3-4022bef2a35c@threeboysfarm.com> References: <12a5a633-f1ad-757d-78f3-4022bef2a35c@threeboysfarm.com> Message-ID: <009101d6600b$6c0015e0$440041a0$@talktalk.net> I also have the 'magic morphing screwdrivers' that change themselves as not required... Neil -----Original Message----- From: Shop-talk On Behalf Of Mark Miller Sent: 22 July 2020 02:36 To: shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] On to wrenches I have a system that is quite ever fail. I have a drawer filled with wrenches that are too small for the hardware to be removed and a second one filled with wrenches that are too large. Then I curse and use slip joint pliers and then curse again. Plus I have a drawer that can convert screwdrivers from philips to slotted depending on which one you do not need. Regards, Mark Miller 707-490-5834 markmiller at threeboysfarm.com _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/neiljsherry at talktalk.net From eric at megageek.com Fri Jul 24 09:49:39 2020 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2020 11:49:39 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Socket marking? (and a quick 'why?) Message-ID: First, why do they not sell metric impact sockets sets with all sizes? I just spend about an hour, with a chart to figure out what brand sockets, and extra ones I needed to make up a full set. They don't even all skip the same sizes. Some skip 16mm, others 20mm etc. I know that some sizes are the same as sae, but what if I don't have an sae set? Just wondering. On to the REAL question. All of my sockets sets that I have are awesome. They aren't to fat to prevent getting into spaces, but don't break when the gorilla (me) turns them. HOWEVER, most of them are losing their labeling. I don't want to have to buy new sets that are engraved, so I wanted some feedback on my options. 1-Sticker labels-do they last? I actually use colored tape on a few of my most standard sizes so I can quickly find them, but that needs to be re-applied every few years. 2-Markers? Are there markers than can write on these things that will last a while? (If I have to re write them as it wears off, that isn't an issue, as long as it isn't too often.) 3-Manually engrave them. I have a dremel engraver. Will that work without weakening the socket? Any other way to do it? 4- combination of 2 and 3? Engrave then write over the number with a marker? 5- any ideas I missed? Thanks. "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson -Who is John Galt? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ejrussell at mebtel.net Fri Jul 24 09:58:24 2020 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell) Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2020 11:58:24 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Socket marking? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I tried some pre-printed socket labels. But the sticky wore off and the printing was not solvent resistant. I have a Brother P-Touch label maker. I'm impressed with the durability. I've labeled some sockets and many of my tools in my 'Paddock Tool Kit'. I also applied labels to some kitchen measuring cups (the printed on markings wore off) and they are still intact a year or two later & after many washings. Eric Russell Mebane, NC On 7/24/2020 11:49 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote: > 1-Sticker labels-do they last? ?I actually use colored tape on a few > of my most standard sizes so I can quickly find them, but that needs > to be re-applied every few years. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From neiljsherry at talktalk.net Fri Jul 24 10:00:57 2020 From: neiljsherry at talktalk.net (Neil Sherry) Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2020 17:00:57 +0100 Subject: [Shop-talk] Socket marking? (and a quick 'why?) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <009a01d661d3$9e5654e0$db02fea0$@talktalk.net> I can find most of the common sizes by sight (looking down into the end of the socket) - especially if they're in the case in order. So I normally select and then just look at the markings to check. A few are a bit knocked about - and I recognise those without looking closely, as old friends from the battles we've been through together! Neil From: Shop-talk On Behalf Of eric at megageek.com Sent: 24 July 2020 16:50 To: Shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: [Shop-talk] Socket marking? (and a quick 'why?) First, why do they not sell metric impact sockets sets with all sizes? I just spend about an hour, with a chart to figure out what brand sockets, and extra ones I needed to make up a full set. They don't even all skip the same sizes. Some skip 16mm, others 20mm etc. I know that some sizes are the same as sae, but what if I don't have an sae set? Just wondering. On to the REAL question. All of my sockets sets that I have are awesome. They aren't to fat to prevent getting into spaces, but don't break when the gorilla (me) turns them. HOWEVER, most of them are losing their labeling. I don't want to have to buy new sets that are engraved, so I wanted some feedback on my options. 1-Sticker labels-do they last? I actually use colored tape on a few of my most standard sizes so I can quickly find them, but that needs to be re-applied every few years. 2-Markers? Are there markers than can write on these things that will last a while? (If I have to re write them as it wears off, that isn't an issue, as long as it isn't too often.) 3-Manually engrave them. I have a dremel engraver. Will that work without weakening the socket? Any other way to do it? 4- combination of 2 and 3? Engrave then write over the number with a marker? 5- any ideas I missed? Thanks. "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson -Who is John Galt? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jniolon at att.net Fri Jul 24 10:32:00 2020 From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon) Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2020 11:32:00 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Socket marking? (and a quick 'why?) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1UWD4ixk3H.1bMiV2mQfKg@johns-desktop> I"m like Erick... I've used the Brothers labels on mine and they hold up pretty good, but if you use them in really greasy or fluid areas they let loose quicker they hold up better on chrome sockets... impacts don't seem to hold as well... think the surface is a little more porous... I did clean every thing with lacquer thinner before applying the labels john ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: 7/24/2020 10:49:39 AM Subject: [Shop-talk] Socket marking? (and a quick 'why?) First, why do they not sell metric impact sockets sets with all sizes? I just spend about an hour, with a chart to figure out what brand sockets, and extra ones I needed to make up a full set. They don't even all skip the same sizes. Some skip 16mm, others 20mm etc. I know that some sizes are the same as sae, but what if I don't have an sae set? Just wondering. On to the REAL question. All of my sockets sets that I have are awesome. They aren't to fat to prevent getting into spaces, but don't break when the gorilla (me) turns them. HOWEVER, most of them are losing their labeling. I don't want to have to buy new sets that are engraved, so I wanted some feedback on my options. 1-Sticker labels-do they last? I actually use colored tape on a few of my most standard sizes so I can quickly find them, but that needs to be re-applied every few years. 2-Markers? Are there markers than can write on these things that will last a while? (If I have to re write them as it wears off, that isn't an issue, as long as it isn't too often.) 3-Manually engrave them. I have a dremel engraver. Will that work without weakening the socket? Any other way to do it? 4- combination of 2 and 3? Engrave then write over the number with a marker? 5- any ideas I missed? Thanks. "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson -Who is John Galt? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Fri Jul 24 10:36:13 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2020 16:36:13 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] Socket marking? (and a quick 'why?) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2005153251.4694869.1595608573526@mail.yahoo.com> How about getting a selection of aerosol paint cans and paint them different colors.? Sure the paint will wear off but not everywhere at the same rate and as long as there is some visible it will be doing its job.? If you use them frequently you will quickly learn what color is what size.? Dave -----Original Message----- To: Shop-talk at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Jul 24, 2020 10:49 am Subject: [Shop-talk] Socket marking? (and a quick 'why?) First, why do they not sell metric impactsockets sets with all sizes? ?I just spend about an hour, with a chartto figure out what brand sockets, and extra ones I needed to make up afull set. They don't even all skip the same sizes.?Some skip 16mm, others 20mm etc. ?I know that some sizes arethe same as sae, but what if I don't have an sae set? ?Just wondering. On to the REAL question. All of my sockets sets that I have areawesome. ?They aren't to fat to prevent getting into spaces, but don'tbreak when the gorilla (me) turns them. ?HOWEVER, most of them arelosing their labeling. ?I don't want to have to buy new sets thatare engraved, so I wanted some feedback on my options. 1-Sticker labels-do they last? ?Iactually use colored tape on a few of my most standard sizes so I can quicklyfind them, but that needs to be re-applied every few years. 2-Markers? ?Are there markers thancan write on these things that will last a while? ?(If I have to rewrite them as it wears off, that isn't an issue, as long as it isn't toooften.) 3-Manually engrave them. I have a dremelengraver. ?Will that work without weakening the socket? ?Anyother way to do it? 4- combination of 2 and 3? ?Engravethen write over the number with a marker? 5- any ideas I missed? ? Thanks. "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rationalbeing are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." RalphWaldo Emerson -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Fri Jul 24 10:38:11 2020 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2020 10:38:11 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Socket marking? (and a quick 'why?) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0409182e-a1ad-d6d9-de89-874c15b441e4@bradakis.com> I like those upright socket racks that use pegs with the size imprinted on the end.? They work great for both metric and inch sizes.? Well, they work great for about 5 - 10% of my sockets, the rest are an organizational mess. mjb. From dirtbeard at gmail.com Fri Jul 24 10:39:00 2020 From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard) Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2020 09:39:00 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Fwd: Socket marking? (and a quick 'why?) In-Reply-To: References: <1UWD4ixk3H.1bMiV2mQfKg@johns-desktop> Message-ID: I know that it is too late now that you have the sockets, but over the decades I have used S-K sockets because they are thin-walled (fit in the tightest spots), have nice cast-in visible size markings, do not break, etc.: https://sktools.com/shop/sockets-sets.html?cat=6&fractional_or_metric=179&finish=175 I also would vote for the Brother P-touch for labeling, though. best, doug On Fri, Jul 24, 2020 at 9:32 AM john niolon wrote: > I"m like Erick... I've used the Brothers labels on mine and they hold up > pretty good, but if you use them in really greasy or fluid areas they let > loose quicker > they hold up better on chrome sockets... impacts don't seem to hold as > well... think the surface is a little more porous... I did clean every > thing with lacquer > thinner before applying the labels > > > john > > > *----- Original Message -----* > *From:* > *To:* > *Sent:* 7/24/2020 10:49:39 AM > *Subject:* [Shop-talk] Socket marking? (and a quick 'why?) > ------------------------------ > First, why do they not sell metric impact sockets sets with all sizes? I > just spend about an hour, with a chart to figure out what brand sockets, > and extra ones I needed to make up a full set. > > They don't even all skip the same sizes. Some skip 16mm, others 20mm > etc. I know that some sizes are the same as sae, but what if I don't have > an sae set? Just wondering. > > On to the REAL question. > > All of my sockets sets that I have are awesome. They aren't to fat to > prevent getting into spaces, but don't break when the gorilla (me) turns > them. HOWEVER, most of them are losing their labeling. I don't want to > have to buy new sets that are engraved, so I wanted some feedback on my > options. > > 1-Sticker labels-do they last? I actually use colored tape on a few of my > most standard sizes so I can quickly find them, but that needs to be > re-applied every few years. > > 2-Markers? Are there markers than can write on these things that will > last a while? (If I have to re write them as it wears off, that isn't an > issue, as long as it isn't too often.) > > 3-Manually engrave them. I have a dremel engraver. Will that work without > weakening the socket? Any other way to do it? > > 4- combination of 2 and 3? Engrave then write over the number with a > marker? > > 5- any ideas I missed? > > Thanks. > > > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson > -Who is John Galt? > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From arvidj999 at gmail.com Fri Jul 24 10:46:15 2020 From: arvidj999 at gmail.com (Arvid Jedlicka) Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2020 11:46:15 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Socket marking? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Specifically which labels did you use? I have the P-Touch but it will take several different types of labels in each width. Thanks, Arvid On Fri, Jul 24, 2020, 10:58 AM Eric Russell wrote: > I tried some pre-printed socket labels. But the sticky wore off and the > printing was not solvent resistant. > > I have a Brother P-Touch label maker. I'm impressed with the durability. > I've labeled some sockets and many of my tools in my 'Paddock Tool Kit'. I > also applied labels to some kitchen measuring cups (the printed on markings > wore off) and they are still intact a year or two later & after many > washings. > Eric Russell > Mebane, NC > > On 7/24/2020 11:49 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote: > > 1-Sticker labels-do they last? I actually use colored tape on a few of my > most standard sizes so I can quickly find them, but that needs to be > re-applied every few years. > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/arvidj999 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org Fri Jul 24 10:58:33 2020 From: mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org (Jimmie Mayfield) Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2020 12:58:33 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Socket marking? (and a quick 'why?) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > On to the REAL question. > > All of my sockets sets that I have are awesome. ?They aren't to fat to > prevent getting into spaces, but don't break when the gorilla (me) > turns them. ?HOWEVER, most of them are losing their labeling. ?I don't > want to have to buy new sets that are engraved, so I wanted some > feedback on my options. > > 1-Sticker labels-do they last? ?I actually use colored tape on a few > of my most standard sizes so I can quickly find them, but that needs > to be re-applied every few years. > > 2-Markers? ?Are there markers than can write on these things that will > last a while? ?(If I have to re write them as it wears off, that isn't > an issue, as long as it isn't too often.) > > 3-Manually engrave them. I have a dremel engraver. ?Will that work > without weakening the socket? ?Any other way to do it? > > 4- combination of 2 and 3? ?Engrave then write over the number with a > marker? > My black Harbor Freight impact sockets are engraved but it's darn near impossible to read the sizes unless I pick up each individual socket.? I wound up applying white enamel to the engravings and then cleaning off the excess so that the engravings remained white.? I used chalk for a while but it rubs off too easily.? The paint seems to hold up pretty well. I have a Dymo 160 label maker and I use it for lots of things but I don't think those labels would stick very well if the socket gets exposed to oil or grease. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ejrussell at mebtel.net Fri Jul 24 11:09:11 2020 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell) Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2020 13:09:11 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Socket marking? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <79038cc1-b519-e319-8ba7-cd2e0d1cf5b0@mebtel.net> I have both clear & white labels - 1/2" wide of their standard type (TZe?). The black printing on the white labels stands out more but the clear labels look better. They also advertise labels with high strength adhesive but I have not used that. The default setting makes a very wide 'margin' (blank area before & after the printing). My cynical self assumes this is intentional to use up more tape forcing one to buy more refills. This can be changed to a narrow(er) margin. EjR On 7/24/2020 12:46 PM, Arvid Jedlicka wrote: > Specifically which labels did you use? I have the P-Touch but it will > take several different types of labels in each width. > > Thanks, > Arvid > > On Fri, Jul 24, 2020, 10:58 AM Eric Russell > wrote: > > I tried some pre-printed socket labels. But the sticky wore off > and the printing was not solvent resistant. > > I have a Brother P-Touch label maker. I'm impressed with the > durability. I've labeled some sockets and many of my tools in my > 'Paddock Tool Kit'. I also applied labels to some kitchen > measuring cups (the printed on markings wore off) and they are > still intact a year or two later & after many washings. > > Eric Russell > Mebane, NC > > On 7/24/2020 11:49 AM, eric at megageek.com > wrote: >> 1-Sticker labels-do they last?? I actually use colored tape on a >> few of my most standard sizes so I can quickly find them, but >> that needs to be re-applied every few years. > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From marka at maracing.com Fri Jul 24 11:14:50 2020 From: marka at maracing.com (Mark Andy) Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2020 13:14:50 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Socket marking? In-Reply-To: <79038cc1-b519-e319-8ba7-cd2e0d1cf5b0@mebtel.net> References: <79038cc1-b519-e319-8ba7-cd2e0d1cf5b0@mebtel.net> Message-ID: Howdy, I can't imagine trying to use labels on a socket that actually gets used. I'd go with engraving the size on it, then putting some type of paint in the groove. Mark On Fri, Jul 24, 2020 at 1:09 PM Eric Russell wrote: > I have both clear & white labels - 1/2" wide of their standard type > (TZe?). The black printing on the white labels stands out more but the > clear labels look better. They also advertise labels with high strength > adhesive but I have not used that. > > The default setting makes a very wide 'margin' (blank area before & after > the printing). My cynical self assumes this is intentional to use up more > tape forcing one to buy more refills. This can be changed to a narrow(er) > margin. > > EjR > On 7/24/2020 12:46 PM, Arvid Jedlicka wrote: > > Specifically which labels did you use? I have the P-Touch but it will take > several different types of labels in each width. > > Thanks, > Arvid > > On Fri, Jul 24, 2020, 10:58 AM Eric Russell wrote: > >> I tried some pre-printed socket labels. But the sticky wore off and the >> printing was not solvent resistant. >> >> I have a Brother P-Touch label maker. I'm impressed with the durability. >> I've labeled some sockets and many of my tools in my 'Paddock Tool Kit'. I >> also applied labels to some kitchen measuring cups (the printed on markings >> wore off) and they are still intact a year or two later & after many >> washings. >> Eric Russell >> Mebane, NC >> >> On 7/24/2020 11:49 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote: >> >> 1-Sticker labels-do they last? I actually use colored tape on a few of >> my most standard sizes so I can quickly find them, but that needs to be >> re-applied every few years. >> >> _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/marka at maracing.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dirtbeard at gmail.com Fri Jul 24 10:38:05 2020 From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard) Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2020 09:38:05 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Socket marking? (and a quick 'why?) In-Reply-To: <1UWD4ixk3H.1bMiV2mQfKg@johns-desktop> References: <1UWD4ixk3H.1bMiV2mQfKg@johns-desktop> Message-ID: I know that it is too late now that you have the sockets, but over the decades I have used S-K sockets because they are thin-walled (fit in the tightest spots), have nice cast-in visible size markings, do not break, etc.: https://sktools.com/shop/sockets-sets.html?cat=6&fractional_or_metric=179&finish=175 I also would vote for the Brother P-touch for labeling, though. best, doug On Fri, Jul 24, 2020 at 9:32 AM john niolon wrote: > I"m like Erick... I've used the Brothers labels on mine and they hold up > pretty good, but if you use them in really greasy or fluid areas they let > loose quicker > they hold up better on chrome sockets... impacts don't seem to hold as > well... think the surface is a little more porous... I did clean every > thing with lacquer > thinner before applying the labels > > > john > > > *----- Original Message -----* > *From:* > *To:* > *Sent:* 7/24/2020 10:49:39 AM > *Subject:* [Shop-talk] Socket marking? (and a quick 'why?) > ------------------------------ > First, why do they not sell metric impact sockets sets with all sizes? I > just spend about an hour, with a chart to figure out what brand sockets, > and extra ones I needed to make up a full set. > > They don't even all skip the same sizes. Some skip 16mm, others 20mm > etc. I know that some sizes are the same as sae, but what if I don't have > an sae set? Just wondering. > > On to the REAL question. > > All of my sockets sets that I have are awesome. They aren't to fat to > prevent getting into spaces, but don't break when the gorilla (me) turns > them. HOWEVER, most of them are losing their labeling. I don't want to > have to buy new sets that are engraved, so I wanted some feedback on my > options. > > 1-Sticker labels-do they last? I actually use colored tape on a few of my > most standard sizes so I can quickly find them, but that needs to be > re-applied every few years. > > 2-Markers? Are there markers than can write on these things that will > last a while? (If I have to re write them as it wears off, that isn't an > issue, as long as it isn't too often.) > > 3-Manually engrave them. I have a dremel engraver. Will that work without > weakening the socket? Any other way to do it? > > 4- combination of 2 and 3? Engrave then write over the number with a > marker? > > 5- any ideas I missed? > > Thanks. > > > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson > -Who is John Galt? > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Fri Jul 24 11:42:36 2020 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2020 11:42:36 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Sigh. Message-ID: Normally I don't need to reach for a box of tissues when doing a simple Unix command line task: [root at autox bin]# [root at autox bin]# ./remove_members --fromall -n tr3driver at ca.rr.com User `tr3driver at ca.rr.com' removed from list: fot. User `tr3driver at ca.rr.com' removed from list: the-local. User `tr3driver at ca.rr.com' removed from list: shop-talk. User `tr3driver at ca.rr.com' removed from list: triumphs. Thank you Randall Young for all you did for the lists, your steadfast support of Team Net and the Triumph community over the years.? You will be missed. mjb. From jem at milleredp.com Fri Jul 24 12:18:02 2020 From: jem at milleredp.com (John Miller) Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2020 11:18:02 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Socket marking? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On 7/24/2020 9:46 AM, Arvid Jedlicka wrote: > Specifically which labels did you use? I have the P-Touch but it will > take several different types of labels in each width. I've never thought about using p-touch labels, I didn't figure they'd last three months. John. From jem at milleredp.com Fri Jul 24 13:07:57 2020 From: jem at milleredp.com (John Miller) Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2020 12:07:57 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Socket marking? (and a quick 'why?) In-Reply-To: <0409182e-a1ad-d6d9-de89-874c15b441e4@bradakis.com> References: <0409182e-a1ad-d6d9-de89-874c15b441e4@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <3b400e44-016c-bb75-0505-a3eba52abf55@milleredp.com> On 7/24/2020 9:38 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > I like those upright socket racks that use pegs with the size imprinted > on the end.? They work great for both metric and inch sizes.? Well, they > work great for about 5 - 10% of my sockets, the rest are an > organizational mess. Yeah, exactly. I have some old Vidmar cabinets (came out of the electronics shop at the auction when they shut down the Mare Island Naval Shipyard, were full of random resistors and etc. when I got them) and in the one closest to the workbench I've partitioned one drawer for metric sockets (and Torx/eTorx) and one for SAE. As much as it's used these days on stuff I work on I need to better partition my Torx and eTorx stuff. I have bins for each size, in larger sizes > 24mm-15/16 I may have only one or two of each (and in some sizes I need more), in smaller sizes I have many more (in 1/2 shallow I probably have 10+.) My sockets run from a couple 1930s Herbrand Van-Chrome to lots of '60s-80s Craftsman and Proto (from family history or off eBay) to recent Harbor Freight and comparable brands off Amazon. I just grab whatever's available. The goal is that I have enough that I'm never scrounging the bench to find the one I misplaced... Random eBay socket bags produce some really interesting stuff. I now have a fair set of 8-point Craftsman sockets. Foundation/house hardware or ag equipment? Dunno. John. From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com Fri Jul 24 13:12:22 2020 From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott Hall) Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2020 14:12:22 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Sigh. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Oh no. On Fri, Jul 24, 2020 at 12:46 PM Mark J Bradakis wrote: > > Normally I don't need to reach for a box of tissues when doing a simple > Unix command line task: > > [root at autox bin]# > [root at autox bin]# ./remove_members --fromall -n tr3driver at ca.rr.com > User `tr3driver at ca.rr.com' removed from list: fot. > User `tr3driver at ca.rr.com' removed from list: the-local. > User `tr3driver at ca.rr.com' removed from list: shop-talk. > User `tr3driver at ca.rr.com' removed from list: triumphs. > > > Thank you Randall Young for all you did for the lists, your steadfast > support of Team Net and the Triumph community over the years. You will > be missed. > > mjb. > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com Fri Jul 24 13:33:31 2020 From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott Hall) Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2020 14:33:31 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Leaf blower issues...need the elders' advice Message-ID: I have a Troy Bilt 4-cycle backpack leaf blower, the older version of this thing: https://www.troybilt.com/en_US/leaf-blowers/tb4bp-ec-backpack-gas-leaf-blower/41BR4BEG766.html I need intelligent more experienced folks to advise me before I slip into insanity. The past year or so the choke has lost effectiveness--you used to start it as directed: pump the primer bulb a few times, choke on full. Start. Choke to 1/2 until warm, then choke full-off. At first it wouldn't start with choke full-on, I had to start it on half-choke. Then 1/4-ish. At the same time, the throttle became more of an an/off switch. It would bog at anything other than idle. If I open it full, it would die. And it never achieved full-power. Note: the choke is an actual choke--a plastic plate slides over the air intake on the carb. This sounds like something that needs a carb cleanin', right? So I did. Took it apart, soaked it in carb cleaner, re-assembled. I also replaced the fuel intake line and fuel filter--a weird little thing, looks like a pumice stone on the end of the fuel line. Worked...better. Not back to new, but better. For a day. Now it won't start at all. There's just not that much to this carb. I blew it out with compressed air, chased the passages I could, etc. There's just not much there...there. What's making me question my sanity is that this happened on my riding mower last year too and I similarly cleaned that carb, which was similarly simple and it absolutely would not run again until I just bought a new carb and replaced it. So here's the question: what am I doing or not doing that I can't clean a small engine carburetor? Is there some secret air passage on small engine carbs that I'm not reaching? I tool them completely apart. There were no idle jets, or enrichment circuits, or...whatever. Just a hunk of metal with a few small holes. What on earth would make the new one better than the one that's on there? I feel like this should be so simple and I'm missing something so basic. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dirtbeard at gmail.com Fri Jul 24 13:35:06 2020 From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard) Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2020 12:35:06 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Sigh. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I am very, very sorry to hear this news. I live in the LA area as well and I met with him in person a couple times. There are not many people on these lists that I actually have had the pleasure to meet in person. Good guy, smart guy, helpful guy, and again, I am very sad to hear this news. Regretfully, doug On Fri, Jul 24, 2020 at 10:46 AM Mark J Bradakis wrote: > > Normally I don't need to reach for a box of tissues when doing a simple > Unix command line task: > > [root at autox bin]# > [root at autox bin]# ./remove_members --fromall -n tr3driver at ca.rr.com > User `tr3driver at ca.rr.com' removed from list: fot. > User `tr3driver at ca.rr.com' removed from list: the-local. > User `tr3driver at ca.rr.com' removed from list: shop-talk. > User `tr3driver at ca.rr.com' removed from list: triumphs. > > > Thank you Randall Young for all you did for the lists, your steadfast > support of Team Net and the Triumph community over the years. You will > be missed. > > mjb. > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From phoenix722 at comcast.net Fri Jul 24 14:39:44 2020 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair) Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2020 13:39:44 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Socket marking? (and a quick 'why?) In-Reply-To: References: <1UWD4ixk3H.1bMiV2mQfKg@johns-desktop> Message-ID: I agree.? I've had my S-K sockets since the 50s and they are as good as new.? Well, not quite, but readable and usable.? And I've used a lot of torque a few times. Mike On 7/24/2020 9:38 AM, old dirtbeard wrote: > I know that it is too late now that you have the sockets, but over the > decades I have used S-K sockets because they are thin-walled (fit in > the tightest spots), have nice cast-in visible size markings, do not > break, etc.: > https://sktools.com/shop/sockets-sets.html?cat=6&fractional_or_metric=179&finish=175 > > > I also would vote for the Brother? P-touch for labeling, though. > > best, > > doug > > On Fri, Jul 24, 2020 at 9:32 AM john niolon > wrote: > > I"m like Erick... I've used the Brothers labels on mine and they > hold up pretty good, but if you use them in really greasy or > fluid? areas they let loose quicker > they hold up better on chrome sockets... impacts don't seem to > hold as well... think the surface is a little more porous... I did > clean every thing with lacquer > thinner before applying the labels > john > > *----- Original Message -----* > *From:* > *To:* > *Sent:* 7/24/2020 10:49:39 AM > *Subject:* [Shop-talk] Socket marking? (and a quick 'why?) > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > First, why do they not sell metric impact sockets sets with > all sizes?? I just spend about an hour, with a chart to figure > out what brand sockets, and extra ones I needed to make up a > full set. > > They don't even all skip the same sizes.? Some skip 16mm, > others 20mm etc.? I know that some sizes are the same as sae, > but what if I don't have an sae set?? Just wondering. > > On to the REAL question. > > All of my sockets sets that I have are awesome.? They aren't > to fat to prevent getting into spaces, but don't break when > the gorilla (me) turns them.? HOWEVER, most of them are losing > their labeling.? I don't want to have to buy new sets that are > engraved, so I wanted some feedback on my options. > > 1-Sticker labels-do they last?? I actually use colored tape on > a few of my most standard sizes so I can quickly find them, > but that needs to be re-applied every few years. > > 2-Markers?? Are there markers than can write on these things > that will last a while? ?(If I have to re write them as it > wears off, that isn't an issue, as long as it isn't too often.) > > 3-Manually engrave them. I have a dremel engraver.? Will that > work without weakening the socket?? Any other way to do it? > > 4- combination of 2 and 3?? Engrave then write over the number > with a marker? > > 5- any ideas I missed? > > Thanks. > > > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as > a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of > your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson > -Who is John Galt? > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/phoenix722 at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bk13 at earthlink.net Fri Jul 24 14:45:58 2020 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2020 13:45:58 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Leaf blower issues...need the elders' advice In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <55934e06-3905-9be9-6310-654116cd9f6d@earthlink.net> Are you using fresh gas?? I had a yard sale wood chipper that "was just used last month" when I bought it.? Rebuilt the carb and it would run with carb cleaner sprayed in the intake, but then die.? I drained and replaced the gas and it ran fine.? The other thing to check is that the fuel pickup is still at the bottom of the tank. Had that problem when I replaced the fuel hose on a string trimmer. Brian On 7/24/2020 12:33 PM, Scott Hall wrote: > I have a Troy Bilt 4-cycle backpack leaf blower, the older version of > this thing: > > https://www.troybilt.com/en_US/leaf-blowers/tb4bp-ec-backpack-gas-leaf-blower/41BR4BEG766.html > > > I need intelligent more experienced folks to advise me before I slip > into insanity. > > The past year or so the choke has lost effectiveness--you used to > start it as directed: pump the primer bulb a few times, choke on full. > Start. Choke to 1/2 until warm, then choke full-off. > > At first it wouldn't start with choke full-on, I had to start it on > half-choke. Then 1/4-ish. > > At the same time, the throttle became more of an an/off switch. It > would bog at anything other than idle. If I open it full, it would > die. And it never achieved full-power. > > Note: the choke is an actual choke--a plastic plate slides over the > air intake on the carb. > > This sounds like something that needs a carb cleanin', right? So I > did. Took it apart, soaked it in carb cleaner, re-assembled. > > I also replaced the fuel intake line and fuel filter--a weird little > thing, looks like a pumice stone on the end of the fuel line. > > Worked...better. Not back to new, but better. For a day. > > Now it won't start at all. > > There's just not that much to this carb. I blew it out with compressed > air, chased the passages I could, etc. There's just not much > there...there. > > What's making me question my sanity is that this happened on my riding > mower last year too and I similarly cleaned that carb, which was > similarly simple and it absolutely would not run again until I just > bought a new carb and replaced it. > > ?So here's the question: what am I doing or not doing that I can't > clean a small engine carburetor? Is there some secret air passage on > small engine carbs that I'm not reaching? I tool them completely > apart. There were no idle jets, or enrichment circuits, or...whatever. > Just a hunk of metal with a few small holes. What on earth would make > the new one better than the one that's on there? > > I feel like this should be so simple and I'm missing something so basic. > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jem at milleredp.com Fri Jul 24 17:04:33 2020 From: jem at milleredp.com (John Miller) Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2020 16:04:33 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Socket marking? (and a quick 'why?) In-Reply-To: References: <1UWD4ixk3H.1bMiV2mQfKg@johns-desktop> Message-ID: On 7/24/2020 1:39 PM, Mike Sinclair wrote: > I agree.? I've had my S-K sockets since the 50s and they are as good as > new.? Well, not quite, but readable and usable.? And I've used a lot of > torque a few times. I've got a bunch of S-K mid-length sockets purchased in the early '80s and they're incredibly useful. I've got this 20yo Facom torque wrench (same corporate parent as SK I think) and (a) it's marked only in Frog and (b) its ratchet has decided it doesn't want to be reversed. It's basically just occupying space in the tool drawer now. John. From fishplate at gmail.com Fri Jul 24 19:43:41 2020 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2020 21:43:41 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Leaf blower issues...need the elders' advice In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Small engine carbs seem to be impossible to clean. Other than an old Briggs lawn mower, I've never had any luck. Chain saws, blowers, string trimmers -- cheaper to replace them than to clean them. The fuel pump diaphragm is the culprit, I think. Nearly impossible to get right again. On Fri, Jul 24, 2020 at 3:34 PM Scott Hall wrote: > > I have a Troy Bilt 4-cycle backpack leaf blower, the older version of this thing: > > https://www.troybilt.com/en_US/leaf-blowers/tb4bp-ec-backpack-gas-leaf-blower/41BR4BEG766.html > > I need intelligent more experienced folks to advise me before I slip into insanity. > > The past year or so the choke has lost effectiveness--you used to start it as directed: pump the primer bulb a few times, choke on full. Start. Choke to 1/2 until warm, then choke full-off. > > At first it wouldn't start with choke full-on, I had to start it on half-choke. Then 1/4-ish. > > At the same time, the throttle became more of an an/off switch. It would bog at anything other than idle. If I open it full, it would die. And it never achieved full-power. > > Note: the choke is an actual choke--a plastic plate slides over the air intake on the carb. > > This sounds like something that needs a carb cleanin', right? So I did. Took it apart, soaked it in carb cleaner, re-assembled. > > I also replaced the fuel intake line and fuel filter--a weird little thing, looks like a pumice stone on the end of the fuel line. > > Worked...better. Not back to new, but better. For a day. > > Now it won't start at all. > > There's just not that much to this carb. I blew it out with compressed air, chased the passages I could, etc. There's just not much there...there. > > What's making me question my sanity is that this happened on my riding mower last year too and I similarly cleaned that carb, which was similarly simple and it absolutely would not run again until I just bought a new carb and replaced it. > > So here's the question: what am I doing or not doing that I can't clean a small engine carburetor? Is there some secret air passage on small engine carbs that I'm not reaching? I tool them completely apart. There were no idle jets, or enrichment circuits, or...whatever. Just a hunk of metal with a few small holes. What on earth would make the new one better than the one that's on there? > > I feel like this should be so simple and I'm missing something so basic. > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate at gmail.com > From dmscheidt at gmail.com Sat Jul 25 09:11:10 2020 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2020 10:11:10 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Socket marking? (and a quick 'why?) In-Reply-To: References: <1UWD4ixk3H.1bMiV2mQfKg@johns-desktop> Message-ID: On Fri, Jul 24, 2020 at 6:05 PM John Miller wrote: > > On 7/24/2020 1:39 PM, Mike Sinclair wrote: > > I agree. I've had my S-K sockets since the 50s and they are as good as > > new. Well, not quite, but readable and usable. And I've used a lot of > > torque a few times. > > I've got a bunch of S-K mid-length sockets purchased in the early '80s > and they're incredibly useful. > > I've got this 20yo Facom torque wrench (same corporate parent as SK I > think) and (a) it's marked only in Frog and (b) its ratchet has decided > it doesn't want to be reversed. It's basically just occupying space in > the tool drawer now. Facom and SK parted ways about 15 years ago. They were independent for a while, but were bought up by Ideal about a decade ago. Ideal has pumped a lot of money into a new manufacturing facility, and some new products. Quality is quite high these days. I suspect that ratchet head on your torque wrench can be rebuilt. If it's the fine tooth round head version, they're prone to getting gunked up with dried grease, and a simple disassembly, cleaning, and light relube often takes care of it. there's a goofy spring that does the reversing of the pawl, they do break. -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From jniolon at att.net Sun Jul 26 11:57:24 2020 From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon) Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2020 12:57:24 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] rattle can paint References: <1UWD6vA5Uv.1B0CKRs7Wrm.ref@johns-desktop> Message-ID: <1UWD6vA5Uv.1B0CKRs7Wrm@johns-desktop> At a car show recently and found (what I thought was a good deal) a guy with Rustoleum rattle can paint in a color I needed for cheep... like 2.50 a can. It's usually about 4.50 in the big box stores So, today I grab a can, put it in my paint shaker for about 10 minutes and give it a shot.... nothing... shook some more... nothing... It had the little red stick in nozzle that makes your finger hurt after about 2 minutes of spraying. I tried the nozzle on another can and it worked... so..how do I get my 2.50 worth of paint out of the can >>> any home remedies ??? john -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From patintexas at icloud.com Sun Jul 26 12:01:52 2020 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2020 11:01:52 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] rattle can paint In-Reply-To: <1UWD6vA5Uv.1B0CKRs7Wrm@johns-desktop> References: <1UWD6vA5Uv.1B0CKRs7Wrm@johns-desktop> Message-ID: <76AF4F78-F573-4FDA-97D2-B8761D8D6CA5@icloud.com> Turn can upside down & punch a very small hole in it, just a pin prick. Let the remaining propellant escape. Then use can opener to remove the bottom. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jul 26, 2020, at 10:58 AM, john niolon wrote: ? At a car show recently and found (what I thought was a good deal) a guy with Rustoleum rattle can paint in a color I needed for cheep... like 2.50 a can. It's usually about 4.50 in the big box stores So, today I grab a can, put it in my paint shaker for about 10 minutes and give it a shot.... nothing... shook some more... nothing... It had the little red stick in nozzle that makes your finger hurt after about 2 minutes of spraying. I tried the nozzle on another can and it worked... so..how do I get my 2.50 worth of paint out of the can >>> any home remedies ??? john _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com From stearman809 at gmail.com Mon Jul 27 08:03:14 2020 From: stearman809 at gmail.com (Karl Vacek) Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 09:03:14 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Sigh. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000e01d6641e$ac25c040$047140c0$@GMail.com> Happily corresponded off-list with Randall many times over the years, about Triumphs, aircraft, and my electronic questions among other topics. He was a fellow Purdue grad, I think 1971, though we never knowingly met there as I was 1970 and wasn't in EE. He was from Lafayette and I believe his parents owned a bar in town in those years, though (somehow) I never visited there either. Very helpful and friendly. Thank you Randall - you will certainly be missed. Karl -----Original Message----- From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Friday, July 24, 2020 12:43 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; fot at autox.team.net; Shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: [Shop-talk] Sigh. Normally I don't need to reach for a box of tissues when doing a simple Unix command line task: [root at autox bin]# [root at autox bin]# ./remove_members --fromall -n tr3driver at ca.rr.com User `tr3driver at ca.rr.com' removed from list: fot. User `tr3driver at ca.rr.com' removed from list: the-local. User `tr3driver at ca.rr.com' removed from list: shop-talk. User `tr3driver at ca.rr.com' removed from list: triumphs. Thank you Randall Young for all you did for the lists, your steadfast support of Team Net and the Triumph community over the years. You will be missed. mjb. _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/stearman809 at gmail.com From mark at bradakis.com Mon Jul 27 12:27:01 2020 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 12:27:01 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Broken sprinkler line Message-ID: <636d0830-af38-0ddb-8362-9e3b22a7f1f7@bradakis.com> I wonder how about 4 inches was taken out of the side of this pipe, and what happened to the pieces?? They must have all been washed away with the leaking water, I guess. Now, fix it myself or call in a pro? mjb. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200727_121222.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 519086 bytes Desc: not available URL: From patintexas at icloud.com Mon Jul 27 12:32:58 2020 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 11:32:58 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Broken sprinkler line In-Reply-To: <636d0830-af38-0ddb-8362-9e3b22a7f1f7@bradakis.com> References: <636d0830-af38-0ddb-8362-9e3b22a7f1f7@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Shouldn?t be tough. Cut out bad part, add coupling & stub of pipe & an adjustable coupling like this. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Homewerks-Worldwide-1-in-PVC-Slide-Repair-Coupling-511-53-1-1H/206698172 Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jul 27, 2020, at 11:28 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: ?I wonder how about 4 inches was taken out of the side of this pipe, and what happened to the pieces? They must have all been washed away with the leaking water, I guess. Now, fix it myself or call in a pro? mjb. <20200727_121222.jpg> _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org Mon Jul 27 12:33:11 2020 From: mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org (Jimmie Mayfield) Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 14:33:11 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Broken sprinkler line In-Reply-To: <636d0830-af38-0ddb-8362-9e3b22a7f1f7@bradakis.com> References: <636d0830-af38-0ddb-8362-9e3b22a7f1f7@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <3c1e0402-77c7-fb57-b7d2-bb3394eaf2d8@sackheads.org> You've already done the hard part (locating the break and digging it up).? From this point on, it's just a PVC repair that you can do yourself.? There are lots of Youtube videos that'll show you how. The real question is what went wrong. Did it freeze? On 7/27/20 14:27, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > I wonder how about 4 inches was taken out of the side of this pipe, > and what happened to the pieces?? They must have all been washed away > with the leaking water, I guess. > > Now, fix it myself or call in a pro? > > mjb. > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dirtbeard at gmail.com Mon Jul 27 12:52:20 2020 From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard) Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 11:52:20 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Broken sprinkler line In-Reply-To: References: <636d0830-af38-0ddb-8362-9e3b22a7f1f7@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Hmmm... I had not seen that before. I always have just manhandled it by prying the pipe up, cut the pipe to just the right length to clear the length of the coupler, slide the coupler fully up the one pipe, and then center it on both ends of the pipes before the glue dries. This coupler looks A LOT easier... :-) Thanks for sharing... best, doug On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 11:33 AM Pat Horne wrote: > Shouldn?t be tough. Cut out bad part, add coupling & stub of pipe & an > adjustable coupling like this. > https://www.homedepot.com/p/Homewerks-Worldwide-1-in-PVC-Slide-Repair-Coupling-511-53-1-1H/206698172 > > Peace, > Pat > > Pat Horne > We support Habitat for Humanity > > > On Jul 27, 2020, at 11:28 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > > ?I wonder how about 4 inches was taken out of the side of this pipe, and > what happened to the pieces? They must have all been washed away with the > leaking water, I guess. > > Now, fix it myself or call in a pro? > > mjb. > > > <20200727_121222.jpg> > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From patintexas at icloud.com Mon Jul 27 13:00:02 2020 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 12:00:02 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Broken sprinkler line In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1E3A5FC7-5DB8-447C-9B89-50E405FABC1B@icloud.com> I?ve done that too but the last time I did it I needed to dig up about 8? of pipe. It was the main water line coming into a house & worried the glue wouldn?t bond all that well (Texas + summer = short working time). Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jul 27, 2020, at 11:53 AM, old dirtbeard wrote: ? Hmmm... I had not seen that before. I always have just manhandled it by prying the pipe up, cut the pipe to just the right length to clear the length of the coupler, slide the coupler fully up the one pipe, and then center it on both ends of the pipes before the glue dries. This coupler looks A LOT easier... :-) Thanks for sharing... best, doug > On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 11:33 AM Pat Horne wrote: > Shouldn?t be tough. Cut out bad part, add coupling & stub of pipe & an adjustable coupling like this. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Homewerks-Worldwide-1-in-PVC-Slide-Repair-Coupling-511-53-1-1H/206698172 > > Peace, > Pat > > Pat Horne > We support Habitat for Humanity > > > On Jul 27, 2020, at 11:28 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > > ?I wonder how about 4 inches was taken out of the side of this pipe, and what happened to the pieces? They must have all been washed away with the leaking water, I guess. > > Now, fix it myself or call in a pro? > > mjb. > > > <20200727_121222.jpg> > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com Mon Jul 27 17:19:47 2020 From: tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com (Tim .) Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 23:19:47 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Ratchet rebuilding WAS Socket marking? (and a quick 'why?) In-Reply-To: References: <1UWD4ixk3H.1bMiV2mQfKg@johns-desktop> , Message-ID: "I suspect that ratchet head on your torque wrench can be rebuilt. If it's the fine tooth round head version, they're prone to getting gunked up with dried grease, and a simple disassembly, cleaning, and light relube often takes care of it. there's a goofy spring that does the reversing of the pawl, they do break." Both of my 1/2" ratchets have given up. One is a craftsman but with Sears gone and the nearest Lowes well over an hour from me, I think rebuilding is my best option. (Hell, I didn't even know it was an option.) So, MY question is where would one source parts for them? Thanks tim ________________________________ From: Shop-talk on behalf of David Scheidt Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2020 10:11 AM To: John Miller ; shop-talk Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Socket marking? (and a quick 'why?) On Fri, Jul 24, 2020 at 6:05 PM John Miller wrote: > > On 7/24/2020 1:39 PM, Mike Sinclair wrote: > > I agree. I've had my S-K sockets since the 50s and they are as good as > > new. Well, not quite, but readable and usable. And I've used a lot of > > torque a few times. > > I've got a bunch of S-K mid-length sockets purchased in the early '80s > and they're incredibly useful. > > I've got this 20yo Facom torque wrench (same corporate parent as SK I > think) and (a) it's marked only in Frog and (b) its ratchet has decided > it doesn't want to be reversed. It's basically just occupying space in > the tool drawer now. Facom and SK parted ways about 15 years ago. They were independent for a while, but were bought up by Ideal about a decade ago. Ideal has pumped a lot of money into a new manufacturing facility, and some new products. Quality is quite high these days. I suspect that ratchet head on your torque wrench can be rebuilt. If it's the fine tooth round head version, they're prone to getting gunked up with dried grease, and a simple disassembly, cleaning, and light relube often takes care of it. there's a goofy spring that does the reversing of the pawl, they do break. -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From strovato at optonline.net Mon Jul 27 18:41:33 2020 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 20:41:33 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Ratchet rebuilding WAS Socket marking? (and a quick 'why?) In-Reply-To: References: <1UWD4ixk3H.1bMiV2mQfKg@johns-desktop> Message-ID: <1D.36.29911.C447F1F5@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Back in the day you could get the rebuild kit for free from Sears. When mine broke, I searched around and found a guy on ebay selling some of the old kits. One might argue that a rebuild old ratchet is better quality than a new replacement. If you'd rather trade it in, I believe Ace Hardware also carries Craftsman. Craftsman has a phone number you can call. They should point you to the nearest place where you can trade it in. -Steve T. At 07:19 PM 7/27/2020, Tim . wrote: >Both of my 1/2" ratchets have given up. One is a craftsman but with >Sears gone and the nearest Lowes well over an hour from me, I think >rebuilding is my best option. (Hell, I didn't even know it was an option.) > >So, MY question is where would one source parts for them? > >Thanks >tim -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From patintexas at icloud.com Mon Jul 27 18:45:09 2020 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 17:45:09 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Ratchet rebuilding WAS Socket marking? (and a quick 'why?) In-Reply-To: <1D.36.29911.C447F1F5@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> References: <1D.36.29911.C447F1F5@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Message-ID: <44FEC030-A1A4-468E-8864-28E128246093@icloud.com> Yes, Ace sells Craftsman, at least at my local store. They will only swap out tools for the exact part number which is fine for screwdrivers & sockets but might be a problem for ratchets. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jul 27, 2020, at 5:42 PM, Steven Trovato wrote: ?Back in the day you could get the rebuild kit for free from Sears. When mine broke, I searched around and found a guy on ebay selling some of the old kits. One might argue that a rebuild old ratchet is better quality than a new replacement. If you'd rather trade it in, I believe Ace Hardware also carries Craftsman. Craftsman has a phone number you can call. They should point you to the nearest place where you can trade it in. -Steve T. At 07:19 PM 7/27/2020, Tim . wrote: > Both of my 1/2" ratchets have given up. One is a craftsman but with Sears gone and the nearest Lowes well over an hour from me, I think rebuilding is my best option. (Hell, I didn't even know it was an option.) > > So, MY question is where would one source parts for them? > > Thanks > tim -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com From fishplate at gmail.com Mon Jul 27 19:34:53 2020 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 21:34:53 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Ratchet rebuilding WAS Socket marking? (and a quick 'why?) In-Reply-To: <44FEC030-A1A4-468E-8864-28E128246093@icloud.com> References: <1D.36.29911.C447F1F5@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> <44FEC030-A1A4-468E-8864-28E128246093@icloud.com> Message-ID: On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 8:45 PM Pat Horne wrote: > They will only swap out tools for the exact part number which is fine for > screwdrivers & sockets but might be a problem for ratchets. Some years back, I took a 30-year-old 1/2" torque wrench to Sears to get a ratchet kit. That wrench was probably 25 years old at the time. They didn't have the kit available any more, so I got a new torque wrench. Those days are gone forever, I suspect. And, in fact, policies like that may have had something to do with it. *sigh* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Mon Jul 27 21:08:21 2020 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 21:08:21 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Broken sprinkler line In-Reply-To: <636d0830-af38-0ddb-8362-9e3b22a7f1f7@bradakis.com> References: <636d0830-af38-0ddb-8362-9e3b22a7f1f7@bradakis.com> Message-ID: I've done a lot of home repairs over the years.? My father was pretty handy around the house, I got to help him with various plumbing, electrical, painting tasks while growing up.? I learned a lot at his side. One thing I apparently did not learn, or I just forgot, is that if a PVC pipe measures 1 inch on the outside diameter, it is not 1 inch PVC, it is really 3/4 inch.? Inside diameter is what is measured. Oh well, I'll head back to the plumbing place in the morning, think I'll just have a gin and tonic while I grumble about life, the universe and everything. mjb. From dmscheidt at gmail.com Mon Jul 27 21:24:39 2020 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 22:24:39 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Ratchet rebuilding WAS Socket marking? (and a quick 'why?) In-Reply-To: References: <1D.36.29911.C447F1F5@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> <44FEC030-A1A4-468E-8864-28E128246093@icloud.com> Message-ID: On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 8:35 PM Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > > > > On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 8:45 PM Pat Horne wrote: >> >> They will only swap out tools for the exact part number which is fine for screwdrivers & sockets but might be a problem for ratchets. > > > Some years back, I took a 30-year-old 1/2" torque wrench to Sears to get a ratchet kit. That wrench was probably 25 years old at the time. They didn't have the kit available any more, so I got a new torque wrench. Those days are gone forever, I suspect. And, in fact, policies like that may have had something to do with it. the cost of warranty replacements for tools was very low, even with the abuse. Tools simply don't fail that often, they're more often lost. and a substantial fraction of people who could have warrantied a tool don't. They just throw it away, and buy a new one. If the actual cost of the warranty had been substantial, Stanley wouldn't have accepted the warranty risk when they bought the brand. Sears was done in by decades of poor management, and then a couple decades of asset stripping by a fraudster. -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From bk13 at earthlink.net Mon Jul 27 22:09:05 2020 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 21:09:05 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Broken sprinkler line In-Reply-To: <636d0830-af38-0ddb-8362-9e3b22a7f1f7@bradakis.com> References: <636d0830-af38-0ddb-8362-9e3b22a7f1f7@bradakis.com> Message-ID: PVC is easy the second or third time you do it. Be sure to use PVC primer before the PVC cement.? Otherwise, you will not have a solid well fused connection.? Push one fitting on the pipe, twist and hold it for 30 seconds to make sure it stays tight.? Don't expect to put together more than one fitting at a time as the cement bonds too fast. When you are going to turn the water back on, remove a couple sprinkler heads down stream from the break, especially the end of the line.? Your pipe is likely full of dirt that will clog the sprinkler head if not flushed. Brian On 7/27/2020 11:27 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > I wonder how about 4 inches was taken out of the side of this pipe, > and what happened to the pieces?? They must have all been washed away > with the leaking water, I guess. > > Now, fix it myself or call in a pro? > > mjb. > > From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jul 28 00:26:15 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 23:26:15 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] [OT] Scam Alert Message-ID: <84e68b72-9d3e-d9bf-f7a4-6808b6367825@comcast.net> Warning: Rant follows. I know this isn't the ideal forum, but I thought I'd pass on a new (to me) type of scam that I've encountered a couple times. One time occurred on eBay, and the other, just 'resolved in my favor' involved Walmart.com. The scam goes something like this: 1) You shop around, find a good price on something you need, but not necessarily right away. The first, for me, was on eBay was for a respirator I needed for pesticide applications (as the pandemic was just getting started a lot of identical ads/products started appearing on eBay). The second was a goggle/snorkel set from a Walmart I needed to maintain my swimming pool. 2) In both cases shipping took an inordinate amount of time; I get it, there's a virus going around and all services have been impacted. In the eBay case, I got an email from the supplier right after ordering, imploring me to 'contact us, not eBay' if there are any issues. Of course, I tracked the shipping progress, and it looked 'normal' until the package appeared stalled-out at one of the shipping stages (received order from shipper, picked-up package, etc.). Then, the shipment went into 'in transit' for a couple weeks. As requested, I contacted the shipper--instead of eBay--and got repeated "don't worry, we're taking care of this"messages. Now, I ain't the sharpest nail in the box but I can sniff out a scam pretty well and got a refund--immediately, no-questions-asked so they're probably aware of this--from eBay. The second shipment, from Walmart, looked like it would be slow so I was patient and didn't track shipping until I started to get pissed and discovered the package had made it to Lodi, CA--yeah THAT Lodi--and simply disappeared (it was marked 'missent' by the USPS). Here's what I suspect: Fraudsters--yes, they are probably Chinese based on the broken English; we used to call it 'Chinglish,' but that probably ain't PC now--have found a backdoor/loophole/security breach, whatever you want to call it, in the USPS. They can either generate a bogus shipping pickup/transit, or simply hack the URL for a legitimate purchase (in the eBay case, they just kept sending different tracking #s, as if they were apparently shipping from multiple sites in the US). They will continue to stall until your payment is in their bitcoin stash; once they've gotten the money there probably isn't much the legitimate sellers can do. I don't know what can be done about this; I suspect Walmart, eBay and other sellers are aware of this, and maybe they've just decided to eat the losses. Don't get me wrong, for all its problems I think the USPS is a valued American institution, but it's chronically underfunded and the 'private sector,' who does everything perfectly we are told, can buy them out, pay themselves large bonuses then dump the corpse onto the stock market. Postal services have always been based, at least partially, on trust--any of you lock your mailboxes?--and some really sneaky people have figured out how to take advantage of that. Rant off. Bob From eric at megageek.com Tue Jul 28 02:17:07 2020 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2020 04:17:07 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Ratchet rebuilding WAS Socket marking? (and a quick 'why?) In-Reply-To: References: <1D.36.29911.C447F1F5@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> <44FEC030-A1A4-468E-8864-28E128246093@icloud.com> Message-ID: Jeff Writes, >And, in fact, policies like that may have had something to do with it. Actually, I think it was the fact that their quality really tanked, and a LOT more tools needed to be replaced, then they stopped the 'easy, no questions asked' return policy that did them in. On more than one occasion, I was told that they couldn't rebuild a ratchet at the store and needed to send it back to a repair facility and it would take a few weeks to get it back. NO WAY am I leaving the store with a ratchet only to wait a few weeks to see if they can fix it. Then I had a box wrench that had a 3/4 on one side and 5/8 on the other. It bent (not being abused) and they told me they don't have that wrench any more, but I could pick ONE of the sizes to replace it with. So I would have to leave my wrench and get one size only, leaving me without the other size. That was the day I stopped buying anything Craftsman. "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson -Who is John Galt? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jem at milleredp.com Tue Jul 28 08:26:59 2020 From: jem at milleredp.com (John Miller) Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2020 07:26:59 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Ratchet rebuilding WAS Socket marking? (and a quick 'why?) In-Reply-To: References: <1D.36.29911.C447F1F5@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> <44FEC030-A1A4-468E-8864-28E128246093@icloud.com> Message-ID: <94a34a82-90d9-82bc-3f23-e27a3575eff5@milleredp.com> > Actually, I think it was the fact that their quality really tanked, and > a LOT more tools needed to be replaced, then they stopped the 'easy, no > questions asked' return policy that did them in. As far as Craftsman goes, they went through a bunch of cycles. I still have Craftsman tools that date to the 1950s. Thin walls, top-quality materials, they were pretty much pro quality for the time. Little by little about every fifteen years they gradually migrated down the scale and by the turn of the century they were no different from Home Depot-grade Husky, etc. Meanwhile stuff like some of the mass Chinese brands had been getting better. The current upper-grades of Harbor Freight stuff are very good, if limited in terms of shapes and configurations. I love their composite ratchet handles. > Then I had a box wrench that had a 3/4 on one side and 5/8 on the other. > ?It bent (not being abused) and they told me they don't have that > wrench any more, but I could pick ONE of the sizes to replace it with. > ?So I would have to leave my wrench and get one size only, leaving me > without the other size. When I want slightly oddball stuff I troll eBay for used stuff. John. From mark at bradakis.com Tue Jul 28 13:40:07 2020 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2020 13:40:07 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Broken sprinkler line In-Reply-To: <636d0830-af38-0ddb-8362-9e3b22a7f1f7@bradakis.com> References: <636d0830-af38-0ddb-8362-9e3b22a7f1f7@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Success.? A couple of trips to a plumping place, a REAL plumbing place, not a big box store.? The old mutt that hangs out at England Plumbing here in Salt Lake probably knows more about fixing plumbing problems than any three Home Depot or Lowe's employees.? Broken bits cut out, repair pieces in place.? Zone 2 of our sprinkler system now works just fine. mjb. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200728_112306.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3573350 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200728_121617.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 324763 bytes Desc: not available URL: From nick at landform.co.uk Tue Jul 28 13:50:20 2020 From: nick at landform.co.uk (nick brearley) Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2020 20:50:20 +0100 Subject: [Shop-talk] Broken sprinkler line In-Reply-To: References: <636d0830-af38-0ddb-8362-9e3b22a7f1f7@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Glad it's fixed. Has anybody been using a lawn aerator or a fork over the pipe? Looking at the picture you can imagine at least three tine marks in the broken pipe. Nick Brearley On 28/07/2020 20:40, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > Success. A couple of trips to a plumping place, a REAL plumbing place, > not a big box store.? The old mutt that hangs out at England Plumbing > here in Salt Lake probably knows more about fixing plumbing problems > than any three Home Depot or Lowe's employees.? Broken bits cut out, > repair pieces in place.? Zone 2 of our sprinkler system now works just > fine. > > mjb. > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/nick at landform.co.uk > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alfuller194 at gmail.com Tue Jul 28 15:27:44 2020 From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com) Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2020 17:27:44 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Air Compressor threw a rod Message-ID: <002b01d66525$ef44b0e0$cdce12a0$@gmail.com> So I bought a Sears Craftsman 6.5 HP 2-cylinder oil-less air compressor used. Since I bought it used, I don't know how old it is, or how it was used. Recently I fired it up and it began making a noise, so I shut it down, and found lots of plastic parts on the shop floor. Upon inspection, it has thrown a rod on one cylinder. The plastic parts were from the fan. The issue is finding a connecting rod and cylinder kit for it, since it appears to no longer be made/sold, and sears parts direct doesn't have the parts. The Sears Craftsman model # is 919-165600, and it looks like it was also sold as a DeVilblis 919-16560, as well as lots of other makes and models. The connecting rod is an ACG-1. Some people claim there are only about 3-4 different cylinder configurations, so I guess my question is what would be a good source for locating parts for this thing? I've looked around Amazon, E-Bay, etc. and so far have found one kit, but its $139 for a single cylinder! See https://www.amazon.com/Benron-Equipment-Replacment-for-KK-4835/dp/B0814GP4ZH /ref=psdc_9022420011_t3_B00F9Z4A1G. there must be a better alternative. ---------------- All the best, Al Fuller -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3497008 bytes Desc: not available URL: From patintexas at icloud.com Tue Jul 28 16:02:39 2020 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2020 15:02:39 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Air Compressor threw a rod In-Reply-To: <002b01d66525$ef44b0e0$cdce12a0$@gmail.com> References: <002b01d66525$ef44b0e0$cdce12a0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <21468B43-3B7F-4C55-AC21-34788B1EF455@icloud.com> Ereplacementparts.com says it?s black Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jul 28, 2020, at 2:33 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com wrote: ? So I bought a Sears Craftsman 6.5 HP 2-cylinder oil-less air compressor used. Since I bought it used, I don?t know how old it is, or how it was used? Recently I fired it up and it began making a noise, so I shut it down, and found lots of plastic parts on the shop floor. Upon inspection, it has thrown a rod on one cylinder. The plastic parts were from the fan. The issue is finding a connecting rod and cylinder kit for it, since it appears to no longer be made/sold, and sears parts direct doesn?t have the parts. The Sears Craftsman model # is 919-165600, and it looks like it was also sold as a DeVilblis 919-16560, as well as lots of other makes and models. The connecting rod is an ACG-1. Some people claim there are only about 3-4 different cylinder configurations, so I guess my question is what would be a good source for locating parts for this thing? I?ve looked around Amazon, E-Bay, etc. and so far have found one kit, but its $139 for a single cylinder! See https://www.amazon.com/Benron-Equipment-Replacment-for-KK-4835/dp/B0814GP4ZH/ref=psdc_9022420011_t3_B00F9Z4A1G. there must be a better alternative. ---------------- All the best, Al Fuller _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From doug at dougbraun.com Tue Jul 28 16:51:31 2020 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2020 18:51:31 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Air Compressor threw a rod In-Reply-To: <21468B43-3B7F-4C55-AC21-34788B1EF455@icloud.com> References: <002b01d66525$ef44b0e0$cdce12a0$@gmail.com> <21468B43-3B7F-4C55-AC21-34788B1EF455@icloud.com> Message-ID: So, do these oil-less compressors have a piston sliding in a cylinder? (That's what it looks like in the photo). How do they manage without lubrication? Doug On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 6:03 PM Pat Horne wrote: > Ereplacementparts.com says it?s black > > Peace, > Pat > > Pat Horne > We support Habitat for Humanity > > > On Jul 28, 2020, at 2:33 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com wrote: > > ? > > So I bought a Sears Craftsman 6.5 HP 2-cylinder oil-less air compressor > used. Since I bought it used, I don?t know how old it is, or how it was > used? Recently I fired it up and it began making a noise, so I shut it > down, and found lots of plastic parts on the shop floor. Upon inspection, > it has thrown a rod on one cylinder. The plastic parts were from the fan. > The issue is finding a connecting rod and cylinder kit for it, since it > appears to no longer be made/sold, and sears parts direct doesn?t have the > parts. > > > > The Sears Craftsman model # is 919-165600, and it looks like it was also > sold as a DeVilblis 919-16560, as well as lots of other makes and models. > The connecting rod is an ACG-1. > > > > Some people claim there are only about 3-4 different cylinder > configurations, so I guess my question is what would be a good source for > locating parts for this thing? I?ve looked around Amazon, E-Bay, etc. and > so far have found one kit, but its $139 for a single cylinder! See > https://www.amazon.com/Benron-Equipment-Replacment-for-KK-4835/dp/B0814GP4ZH/ref=psdc_9022420011_t3_B00F9Z4A1G. > there must be a better alternative. > > > > > > ---------------- > > All the best, > > > > Al Fuller > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug at dougbraun.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eric at megageek.com Tue Jul 28 16:57:22 2020 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2020 18:57:22 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Air Compressor threw a rod In-Reply-To: <002b01d66525$ef44b0e0$cdce12a0$@gmail.com> References: <002b01d66525$ef44b0e0$cdce12a0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: Al, We are in an age where fixing parts isn't the best option all the time. I bet you can get a whole new compressor heads (compressor minus motor and tank) for less than the kit/time will cost you. Of find a compressor with a burnt up motor and you can get it cheap and swap out the head. Just a thought. "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson -Who is John Galt? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From patintexas at icloud.com Tue Jul 28 17:21:22 2020 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2020 16:21:22 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Air Compressor threw a rod In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Teflon or similar seals. Also called self-lubricating. Not nearly as good as oiled rings but cheap & easy to build. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jul 28, 2020, at 3:52 PM, Doug Braun wrote: ? So, do these oil-less compressors have a piston sliding in a cylinder? (That's what it looks like in the photo). How do they manage without lubrication? Doug > On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 6:03 PM Pat Horne wrote: > Ereplacementparts.com says it?s black > > Peace, > Pat > > Pat Horne > We support Habitat for Humanity > > > On Jul 28, 2020, at 2:33 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com wrote: > > ? > So I bought a Sears Craftsman 6.5 HP 2-cylinder oil-less air compressor used. Since I bought it used, I don?t know how old it is, or how it was used? Recently I fired it up and it began making a noise, so I shut it down, and found lots of plastic parts on the shop floor. Upon inspection, it has thrown a rod on one cylinder. The plastic parts were from the fan. The issue is finding a connecting rod and cylinder kit for it, since it appears to no longer be made/sold, and sears parts direct doesn?t have the parts. > > > > The Sears Craftsman model # is 919-165600, and it looks like it was also sold as a DeVilblis 919-16560, as well as lots of other makes and models. The connecting rod is an ACG-1. > > > > Some people claim there are only about 3-4 different cylinder configurations, so I guess my question is what would be a good source for locating parts for this thing? I?ve looked around Amazon, E-Bay, etc. and so far have found one kit, but its $139 for a single cylinder! See https://www.amazon.com/Benron-Equipment-Replacment-for-KK-4835/dp/B0814GP4ZH/ref=psdc_9022420011_t3_B00F9Z4A1G. there must be a better alternative. > > > > > ---------------- > > All the best, > > > > Al Fuller > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug at dougbraun.com > _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alfuller194 at gmail.com Wed Jul 29 13:23:41 2020 From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com) Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2020 15:23:41 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Broken sprinkler line In-Reply-To: References: <636d0830-af38-0ddb-8362-9e3b22a7f1f7@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <010701d665dd$c55247d0$4ff6d770$@gmail.com> Yup ? just what I did when I ran over the sprinkle lines with a trencher while installing a new water main from the street to the house. It took longer to fix the sprinkler lines than to lay in the new water main, but not too long, using the slide couplers? ---------------- All the best, Al Fuller From: Shop-talk On Behalf Of Pat Horne Sent: Monday, July 27, 2020 2:33 PM To: Mark J Bradakis Cc: Shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Broken sprinkler line Shouldn?t be tough. Cut out bad part, add coupling & stub of pipe & an adjustable coupling like this. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Homewerks-Worldwide-1-in-PVC-Slide-Repair-Coupling-511-53-1-1H/206698172 Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jul 27, 2020, at 11:28 AM, Mark J Bradakis > wrote: ?I wonder how about 4 inches was taken out of the side of this pipe, and what happened to the pieces? They must have all been washed away with the leaking water, I guess. Now, fix it myself or call in a pro? mjb. <20200727_121222.jpg> _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alfuller194 at gmail.com Wed Jul 29 13:41:53 2020 From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com) Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2020 15:41:53 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Air Compressor threw a rod In-Reply-To: <21468B43-3B7F-4C55-AC21-34788B1EF455@icloud.com> References: <002b01d66525$ef44b0e0$cdce12a0$@gmail.com> <21468B43-3B7F-4C55-AC21-34788B1EF455@icloud.com> Message-ID: <015301d665e0$4fb94570$ef2bd050$@gmail.com> Yes ? the tank IS black. Is that what you meant? I had looked at Ereplacementparts.com, and they call out rod kit KK-4835, but it?s no longer available. ---------------- All the best, Al Fuller From: Pat Horne Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2020 6:03 PM To: alfuller194 at gmail.com Cc: Shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Compressor threw a rod Ereplacementparts.com says it?s black Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jul 28, 2020, at 2:33 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com wrote: ? So I bought a Sears Craftsman 6.5 HP 2-cylinder oil-less air compressor used. Since I bought it used, I don?t know how old it is, or how it was used? Recently I fired it up and it began making a noise, so I shut it down, and found lots of plastic parts on the shop floor. Upon inspection, it has thrown a rod on one cylinder. The plastic parts were from the fan. The issue is finding a connecting rod and cylinder kit for it, since it appears to no longer be made/sold, and sears parts direct doesn?t have the parts. The Sears Craftsman model # is 919-165600, and it looks like it was also sold as a DeVilblis 919-16560, as well as lots of other makes and models. The connecting rod is an ACG-1. Some people claim there are only about 3-4 different cylinder configurations, so I guess my question is what would be a good source for locating parts for this thing? I?ve looked around Amazon, E-Bay, etc. and so far have found one kit, but its $139 for a single cylinder! See https://www.amazon.com/Benron-Equipment-Replacment-for-KK-4835/dp/B0814GP4ZH/ref=psdc_9022420011_t3_B00F9Z4A1G. there must be a better alternative. ---------------- All the best, Al Fuller _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alfuller194 at gmail.com Wed Jul 29 13:47:53 2020 From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com) Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2020 15:47:53 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Air Compressor threw a rod In-Reply-To: References: <002b01d66525$ef44b0e0$cdce12a0$@gmail.com> <21468B43-3B7F-4C55-AC21-34788B1EF455@icloud.com> Message-ID: <015801d665e1$264ac690$72e053b0$@gmail.com> Yes. The piston has a simple ring that seals the cylinder and keeps the piston off the cylinder wall. After a while they do get scuffed up, and the fix is to replace the cylinder and seal. If you catch it before the kind of catastrophic damage I have, you just pull the head, unbolt the connecting rod, remove the piston/connecting rod assembly along with the cylinder ? and replace them with new parts. I think I can find all the parts except the connecting rod? following is a diagram. #58 is the cylinder. It just drops down into the body. ---------------- All the best, Al Fuller From: Doug Braun Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2020 6:52 PM To: alfuller194 at gmail.com; Shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Compressor threw a rod So, do these oil-less compressors have a piston sliding in a cylinder? (That's what it looks like in the photo). How do they manage without lubrication? Doug On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 6:03 PM Pat Horne > wrote: Ereplacementparts.com says it?s black Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jul 28, 2020, at 2:33 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com wrote: ? So I bought a Sears Craftsman 6.5 HP 2-cylinder oil-less air compressor used. Since I bought it used, I don?t know how old it is, or how it was used? Recently I fired it up and it began making a noise, so I shut it down, and found lots of plastic parts on the shop floor. Upon inspection, it has thrown a rod on one cylinder. The plastic parts were from the fan. The issue is finding a connecting rod and cylinder kit for it, since it appears to no longer be made/sold, and sears parts direct doesn?t have the parts. The Sears Craftsman model # is 919-165600, and it looks like it was also sold as a DeVilblis 919-16560, as well as lots of other makes and models. The connecting rod is an ACG-1. Some people claim there are only about 3-4 different cylinder configurations, so I guess my question is what would be a good source for locating parts for this thing? I?ve looked around Amazon, E-Bay, etc. and so far have found one kit, but its $139 for a single cylinder! See https://www.amazon.com/Benron-Equipment-Replacment-for-KK-4835/dp/B0814GP4ZH/ref=psdc_9022420011_t3_B00F9Z4A1G. there must be a better alternative. ---------------- All the best, Al Fuller _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug at dougbraun.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 99904 bytes Desc: not available URL: From alfuller194 at gmail.com Wed Jul 29 13:50:54 2020 From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com) Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2020 15:50:54 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Air Compressor threw a rod In-Reply-To: References: <002b01d66525$ef44b0e0$cdce12a0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <015e01d665e1$92884760$b798d620$@gmail.com> Yeah, you may be right. I guess it just bothers me that I cant find the right combination of repair parts. I DID look at getting a whole new compressor head, but that is about what it would cost for a complete unit [~$2-400]. ---------------- All the best, Al Fuller From: eric at megageek.com Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2020 6:57 PM To: Shop-talk at autox.team.net Cc: alfuller194 at gmail.com Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Compressor threw a rod Al, We are in an age where fixing parts isn't the best option all the time. I bet you can get a whole new compressor heads (compressor minus motor and tank) for less than the kit/time will cost you. Of find a compressor with a burnt up motor and you can get it cheap and swap out the head. Just a thought. "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson -Who is John Galt? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jniolon at att.net Wed Jul 29 14:10:08 2020 From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon) Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2020 15:10:08 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] angle grinder spindle adapter References: <1UWDADtsGE.2UDiU15BFLe.ref@johns-desktop> Message-ID: <1UWDADtsGE.2UDiU15BFLe@johns-desktop> I have two Milwaukee grinders a 6145 with a 1/2"-13 spindle and a 6148 with a 5/8-11 spindle... I can't find grinding rocks or cut off discs with a 1/2 arbor hole plus I have a large box full of 5/8" I've looked for a spindle adapter for 5/8-11 to 1/2-13 and can't find one I can find 5/8-11 to M10 1.25 and 5/8-11 to 3/8-24 I wonder if any have found such or if I bought the 5/8-3/8 adapter would there be enough meat in the 5/8 to 3/8 to bore and tap to 1/2-13 that would be for a qualified person to drill/tap... I'm not qualified or have the tools to do it I would think the most precise way would be on a lathe, right ?? suggestions ?? thanks john -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Wed Jul 29 21:03:52 2020 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2020 21:03:52 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] angle grinder spindle adapter In-Reply-To: <1UWDADtsGE.2UDiU15BFLe@johns-desktop> References: <1UWDADtsGE.2UDiU15BFLe.ref@johns-desktop> <1UWDADtsGE.2UDiU15BFLe@johns-desktop> Message-ID: <44358b2f-70a4-e73e-2e06-8ceed28c10c8@bradakis.com> On 7/29/20 2:10 PM, john niolon wrote: > I have two Milwaukee grinders > a 6145 with a 1/2"-13 spindle?? and > a 6148 with a 5/8-11 spindle... > I can't find grinding rocks or cut off discs with a 1/2 arbor hole > plus I have a large?box full of 5/8" What, exactly, are you trying to accomplish here?? You have a grinder that will work with your box full of 5/8 stuff.? You can't find stuff that fits the 1/2" grinder, so you want to convert the 5/8 grinder that works with what you have to 1/2 inch that won't work with what you have.? Am I reading this correctly? mjb. From eric at megageek.com Thu Jul 30 06:33:54 2020 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 08:33:54 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] attic fan switches (does this exist?) Message-ID: I have an attic fan that is on a thermostatic switch. I was wondering if there was a way that I can have it on a thermostatic switch AND a remote switch (like X-10) What happens is that I want to turn on the fan on some nights or days, but it isn't hot enough to trigger it to go off. If I reduce the temperature setting, it stays on most on the time. But I do want it to go on if it gets too hot when I'm not home. Is there anything like this on the market? I also couldn't figure out how to wire 2 separate switches safely to accomplish this. Any ideas? Thanks. Mule "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson -Who is John Galt? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bjzwissler at gmail.com Thu Jul 30 06:49:47 2020 From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Benjamin Zwissler) Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 08:49:47 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] attic fan switches (does this exist?) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Yes, they exist. Look for home automation systems like Samsung's smart home. You can also use wifi devices via Amazon Alexa. Ben On Thu, Jul 30, 2020, 8:34 AM wrote: > I have an attic fan that is on a thermostatic switch. > > I was wondering if there was a way that I can have it on a thermostatic > switch AND a remote switch (like X-10) > > What happens is that I want to turn on the fan on some nights or days, > but it isn't hot enough to trigger it to go off. If I reduce the > temperature setting, it stays on most on the time. > > But I do want it to go on if it gets too hot when I'm not home. > > Is there anything like this on the market? I also couldn't figure out how > to wire 2 separate switches safely to accomplish this. > > Any ideas? > > Thanks. > > Mule > > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson > -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jdinnis at gmail.com Thu Jul 30 06:56:42 2020 From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis) Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 07:56:42 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] attic fan switches (does this exist?) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Yep lots of ways to do this. If you want it really user-friendly (but maybe not 100% reliable) go insteon. Get the smart hub a temps sensor a relay module and a wireless remote. Set up a custom program to turn on the fan at a pre-set temperature. Then set up a manual program to turn the fan on/off with the wireless remote. Then spend the next several years not being able to find the remote when you need it. Personally, I would do this using an Arduino, a wireless remote module and a temp sensor. Even if you have never worked with this stuff, it is pretty easy to learn. It requires some wiring and some coding, but there are plenty of tutorials online to get you started. My favorite site for this is adafruit.com I would get something like this https://www.adafruit.com/product/393 for a temp sensor. And use a tutorial like this guide (the arduino part) to read temperature: https://learn.adafruit.com/dht then get something like this https://www.amazon.com/INKBIRD-Solid-State-SSR-40DA-24-380V/dp/B00HV974KC/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=solid+state+relay&qid=1596113629&sr=8-3 for a relay to control the fan and something like this: https://www.adafruit.com/product/1096 for a wireless remote. If you prefer python to C then look at the CircuitPython stuff on adafruit's web site. On Thu, Jul 30, 2020 at 7:34 AM wrote: > I have an attic fan that is on a thermostatic switch. > > I was wondering if there was a way that I can have it on a thermostatic > switch AND a remote switch (like X-10) > > What happens is that I want to turn on the fan on some nights or days, > but it isn't hot enough to trigger it to go off. If I reduce the > temperature setting, it stays on most on the time. > > But I do want it to go on if it gets too hot when I'm not home. > > Is there anything like this on the market? I also couldn't figure out how > to wire 2 separate switches safely to accomplish this. > > Any ideas? > > Thanks. > > Mule > > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson > -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com > > -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jniolon at att.net Thu Jul 30 06:57:42 2020 From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon) Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 07:57:42 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] angle grinder spindle adapter In-Reply-To: <44358b2f-70a4-e73e-2e06-8ceed28c10c8@bradakis.com> References: <1UWDADtsGE.2UDiU15BFLe.ref@johns-desktop> <1UWDADtsGE.2UDiU15BFLe@johns-desktop> <44358b2f-70a4-e73e-2e06-8ceed28c10c8@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <1UWDBETxYx.3CPoMUZrPPP@johns-desktop> Hi Mark, thanks for the reply I want to do just the opposite. I want to 'convert' the grinder with the smaller spindle to 5/8 so I can use my disc in it. I keep several grinders ready. One with a cutoff wheel, one with grinding rock and one with a flap disk.. and one with a wire] wheel... saves time switching out media... john ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark J Bradakis To: Sent: 7/29/2020 10:03:52 PM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] angle grinder spindle adapter ________________________________________________________________________________ On 7/29/20 2:10 PM, john niolon wrote: > I have two Milwaukee grinders > a 6145 with a 1/2"-13 spindle and > a 6148 with a 5/8-11 spindle... > I can't find grinding rocks or cut off discs with a 1/2 arbor hole > plus I have a large box full of 5/8" What, exactly, are you trying to accomplish here? You have a grinder that will work with your box full of 5/8 stuff. You can't find stuff that fits the 1/2" grinder, so you want to convert the 5/8 grinder that works with what you have to 1/2 inch that won't work with what you have. Am I reading this correctly? mjb. _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jniolon at att.net From fishplate at gmail.com Thu Jul 30 07:45:57 2020 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 09:45:57 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] attic fan switches (does this exist?) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Thu, Jul 30, 2020 at 8:34 AM wrote: > I have an attic fan that is on a thermostatic switch. > > I was wondering if there was a way that I can have it on a thermostatic > switch AND a remote switch (like X-10) Is the important feature that you can have a remote for it, or just a switch to override the thermostat? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eric at megageek.com Thu Jul 30 07:49:51 2020 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 09:49:51 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] attic fan switches (does this exist?) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Jeff asks about a switch to override the thermostat Over all, I just want a switch near my bed to override the thermostat. I really didn't want to get into complex home automation as I find it ore of a pain. I do still use X-10 because it is some much more bullet proof than modern protocols (and secure, no IOT) "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson -Who is John Galt? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Thu Jul 30 07:59:13 2020 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 09:59:13 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] attic fan switches (does this exist?) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Thu, Jul 30, 2020 at 9:50 AM wrote: > Jeff asks about a switch to override the thermostat > > Over all, I just want a switch near my bed to override the thermostat. So I would suggest some sort of relay to switch the fan, with control input either from the thermostat or a conveniently-located switch. that requires installing a wire in the wall, which may be simple or not...I'm trying to think if there's any danger of backfeeding or not. I don't think so. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dhlocker at comcast.net Thu Jul 30 08:00:13 2020 From: dhlocker at comcast.net (Donald H Locker) Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 10:00:13 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] attic fan switches (does this exist?) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9b3f74de-b2ee-1bed-1fff-9f940e79bb6d@comcast.net> I would think a simple single-pole switch wired with its contacts in parallel with the thermostatic switch contacts would do the job. / |--o/ o--| Bedside switch | | | ____ | Line (Black) ----o o----...---Fan motor (That's a t'stat switch in-line) Donald. -- *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue () no proprietary attachments; no html mail /\ On 2020-07-30 9:49 a.m., eric at megageek.com wrote: > Jeff asks about a switch to override the thermostat > > Over all, I just want a switch near my bed to override the thermostat. > ?I really didn't want to get into complex home automation as I find it > ore of a pain. ?I do still use X-10 because it is some much more bullet > proof than modern protocols (and secure, no IOT) > > > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a > rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your > territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson > -Who is John Galt? > From patintexas at icloud.com Thu Jul 30 08:18:01 2020 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 07:18:01 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] attic fan switches (does this exist?) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I?m not familiar with x-10 but I assume you will be using like a controller for a table lamp where the output is a socket. If you have a controller with isolated contacts it?s even easier. If you want the x-10 to override the thermostat so that the fan runs until you turn it off, all you need to do plug a relay into the controller & wire its normally open contacts across the thermostat. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jul 30, 2020, at 5:34 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote: ?I have an attic fan that is on a thermostatic switch. I was wondering if there was a way that I can have it on a thermostatic switch AND a remote switch (like X-10) What happens is that I want to turn on the fan on some nights or days, but it isn't hot enough to trigger it to go off. If I reduce the temperature setting, it stays on most on the time. But I do want it to go on if it gets too hot when I'm not home. Is there anything like this on the market? I also couldn't figure out how to wire 2 separate switches safely to accomplish this. Any ideas? Thanks. Mule "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From peterwmurray at gmail.com Thu Jul 30 09:00:01 2020 From: peterwmurray at gmail.com (Peter Murray) Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 11:00:01 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] attic fan switches (does this exist?) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: My solution is to have a switch in-line with the thermostat, in our upstairs hallway. When I don't want to hear the fan at 11pm, I switch it off. My fan in my attic has the standard mechanical thermostat that came with it. I think I set it a hair too low, or the hysteresis is too broad, because it'll still be running at 11pm. Then again, we've had 27+ days of 90+ here in Northern Virginia. It is nearly 11am here now and 89 degrees, and the fan is not on yet. (Hmm, did I turn the switch back on?) I know, Pat's heart bleeds for me. I like the idea of making operation of the fan a bit more sophisticated, but writing Arduino code is likely more than my wife, 3 kids under 8 and self-employment will allow. I'm looking at Home Assistant and some Z-Wave devices, but need to do more research before I start spending on hardware. The problem I'd had was that I wanted the fan to run to reduce melting when we had ice dams developing at the roof edge. Of course, the proper solution is to improve my insulation up there! -Peter On Thu, Jul 30, 2020 at 10:18 AM Pat Horne wrote: > I?m not familiar with x-10 but I assume you will be using like a > controller for a table lamp where the output is a socket. If you have a > controller with isolated contacts it?s even easier. > > If you want the x-10 to override the thermostat so that the fan runs > until you turn it off, all you need to do plug a relay into the controller > & wire its normally open contacts across the thermostat. > > Peace, > Pat > > Pat Horne > We support Habitat for Humanity > > > On Jul 30, 2020, at 5:34 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote: > > ?I have an attic fan that is on a thermostatic switch. > > I was wondering if there was a way that I can have it on a thermostatic > switch AND a remote switch (like X-10) > > What happens is that I want to turn on the fan on some nights or days, > but it isn't hot enough to trigger it to go off. If I reduce the > temperature setting, it stays on most on the time. > > But I do want it to go on if it gets too hot when I'm not home. > > Is there anything like this on the market? I also couldn't figure out how > to wire 2 separate switches safely to accomplish this. > > Any ideas? > > Thanks. > > Mule > > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson > -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From patintexas at icloud.com Thu Jul 30 09:08:12 2020 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 08:08:12 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] attic fan switches (does this exist?) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Peter, at 73, I?m not as able to pick up net programming languages like I used to. I have some arduino applications that I need to build. After I finish my car restoration, hopefully this year, I?ll have time for programming. Keep well & cool. Only 95 here today. Better check the furnace! Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jul 30, 2020, at 8:01 AM, Peter Murray wrote: ? My solution is to have a switch in-line with the thermostat, in our upstairs hallway. When I don't want to hear the fan at 11pm, I switch it off. My fan in my attic has the standard mechanical thermostat that came with it. I think I set it a hair too low, or the hysteresis is too broad, because it'll still be running at 11pm. Then again, we've had 27+ days of 90+ here in Northern Virginia. It is nearly 11am here now and 89 degrees, and the fan is not on yet. (Hmm, did I turn the switch back on?) I know, Pat's heart bleeds for me. I like the idea of making operation of the fan a bit more sophisticated, but writing Arduino code is likely more than my wife, 3 kids under 8 and self-employment will allow. I'm looking at Home Assistant and some Z-Wave devices, but need to do more research before I start spending on hardware. The problem I'd had was that I wanted the fan to run to reduce melting when we had ice dams developing at the roof edge. Of course, the proper solution is to improve my insulation up there! -Peter > On Thu, Jul 30, 2020 at 10:18 AM Pat Horne wrote: > I?m not familiar with x-10 but I assume you will be using like a controller for a table lamp where the output is a socket. If you have a controller with isolated contacts it?s even easier. > > If you want the x-10 to override the thermostat so that the fan runs until you turn it off, all you need to do plug a relay into the controller & wire its normally open contacts across the thermostat. > > Peace, > Pat > > Pat Horne > We support Habitat for Humanity > > > On Jul 30, 2020, at 5:34 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote: > > ?I have an attic fan that is on a thermostatic switch. > > I was wondering if there was a way that I can have it on a thermostatic switch AND a remote switch (like X-10) > > What happens is that I want to turn on the fan on some nights or days, but it isn't hot enough to trigger it to go off. If I reduce the temperature setting, it stays on most on the time. > > But I do want it to go on if it gets too hot when I'm not home. > > Is there anything like this on the market? I also couldn't figure out how to wire 2 separate switches safely to accomplish this. > > Any ideas? > > Thanks. > > Mule > > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson > -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jdinnis at gmail.com Thu Jul 30 09:13:00 2020 From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis) Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 10:13:00 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] attic fan switches (does this exist?) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Surprisingly my Arduino-base projects have gotten a MUCH higher degree of Spouse Approval, mostly because the Insteon, X-10 and Z-wave stuff was just too unreliable. After two or three times of the Home Automation stuff not doing what it was supposed to, my wife was done with it. The Arduino stuff required more know-how to get set up and working, but once it was it has performed flawlessly. I am also able to customize it based on her preferences. She wanted a button that would turn the fan on and have it run for 30 minutes. I already had a 4-button remote and was only using two of the buttons. A few simple changes to the Arduino program and I was able to make it do exactly what she wanted. On Thu, Jul 30, 2020 at 10:00 AM Peter Murray wrote: > My solution is to have a switch in-line with the thermostat, in our > upstairs hallway. When I don't want to hear the fan at 11pm, I switch it > off. > > My fan in my attic has the standard mechanical thermostat that came with > it. I think I set it a hair too low, or the hysteresis is too broad, > because it'll still be running at 11pm. Then again, we've had 27+ days of > 90+ here in Northern Virginia. It is nearly 11am here now and 89 degrees, > and the fan is not on yet. (Hmm, did I turn the switch back on?) > > I know, Pat's heart bleeds for me. > > I like the idea of making operation of the fan a bit more sophisticated, > but writing Arduino code is likely more than my wife, 3 kids under 8 and > self-employment will allow. I'm looking at Home Assistant and some Z-Wave > devices, but need to do more research before I start spending on hardware. > > The problem I'd had was that I wanted the fan to run to reduce melting > when we had ice dams developing at the roof edge. Of course, the proper > solution is to improve my insulation up there! > > -Peter > > On Thu, Jul 30, 2020 at 10:18 AM Pat Horne wrote: > >> I?m not familiar with x-10 but I assume you will be using like a >> controller for a table lamp where the output is a socket. If you have a >> controller with isolated contacts it?s even easier. >> >> If you want the x-10 to override the thermostat so that the fan runs >> until you turn it off, all you need to do plug a relay into the controller >> & wire its normally open contacts across the thermostat. >> >> Peace, >> Pat >> >> Pat Horne >> We support Habitat for Humanity >> >> >> On Jul 30, 2020, at 5:34 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote: >> >> ?I have an attic fan that is on a thermostatic switch. >> >> I was wondering if there was a way that I can have it on a thermostatic >> switch AND a remote switch (like X-10) >> >> What happens is that I want to turn on the fan on some nights or days, >> but it isn't hot enough to trigger it to go off. If I reduce the >> temperature setting, it stays on most on the time. >> >> But I do want it to go on if it gets too hot when I'm not home. >> >> Is there anything like this on the market? I also couldn't figure out >> how to wire 2 separate switches safely to accomplish this. >> >> Any ideas? >> >> Thanks. >> >> Mule >> >> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational >> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph >> Waldo Emerson >> -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com > > -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jem at milleredp.com Thu Jul 30 10:05:07 2020 From: jem at milleredp.com (John Miller) Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 09:05:07 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] angle grinder spindle adapter In-Reply-To: <1UWDBETxYx.3CPoMUZrPPP@johns-desktop> References: <1UWDADtsGE.2UDiU15BFLe.ref@johns-desktop> <1UWDADtsGE.2UDiU15BFLe@johns-desktop> <44358b2f-70a4-e73e-2e06-8ceed28c10c8@bradakis.com> <1UWDBETxYx.3CPoMUZrPPP@johns-desktop> Message-ID: <3b83ee30-1417-c4ec-3e1d-b1475aaa9d5e@milleredp.com> > I want to do just the opposite. I want to 'convert' the grinder with the smaller > spindle to 5/8 so I can use my disc in it. I keep several grinders ready. One > with a cutoff wheel, one with grinding rock and one with a flap disk.. and one with a wire] > wheel... saves time switching out media... Doesn't the grinder already have a...uh...uh...thing that if you flip it over it's got a 5/8in boss on it to center the wheel? I have never encountered an angle grinder that didn't have a centering thing for a 5/8in wheel no matter the shaft size. John. From jniolon at att.net Thu Jul 30 14:17:53 2020 From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon) Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 15:17:53 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] angle grinder spindle adapter In-Reply-To: <3b83ee30-1417-c4ec-3e1d-b1475aaa9d5e@milleredp.com> References: <1UWDADtsGE.2UDiU15BFLe.ref@johns-desktop> <1UWDADtsGE.2UDiU15BFLe@johns-desktop> <44358b2f-70a4-e73e-2e06-8ceed28c10c8@bradakis.com> <1UWDBETxYx.3CPoMUZrPPP@johns-desktop> <3b83ee30-1417-c4ec-3e1d-b1475aaa9d5e@milleredp.com> Message-ID: <1UWDBJctYj.5HeWE6O1ANy@johns-desktop> grinder does have a spindle nut that can be reversed to hold the larger wheel... but the majority of my 5/8" accessories are threaded j ----- Original Message ----- From: John Miller To: Sent: 7/30/2020 11:05:07 AM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] angle grinder spindle adapter ________________________________________________________________________________ > I want to do just the opposite. I want to 'convert' the grinder with the smaller > spindle to 5/8 so I can use my disc in it. I keep several grinders ready. One > with a cutoff wheel, one with grinding rock and one with a flap disk.. and one with a wire] > wheel... saves time switching out media... Doesn't the grinder already have a...uh...uh...thing that if you flip it over it's got a 5/8in boss on it to center the wheel? I have never encountered an angle grinder that didn't have a centering thing for a 5/8in wheel no matter the shaft size. John. _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jniolon at att.net From marka at maracing.com Thu Jul 30 14:30:00 2020 From: marka at maracing.com (Mark Andy) Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 16:30:00 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] angle grinder spindle adapter In-Reply-To: <1UWDBJctYj.5HeWE6O1ANy@johns-desktop> References: <1UWDADtsGE.2UDiU15BFLe.ref@johns-desktop> <1UWDADtsGE.2UDiU15BFLe@johns-desktop> <44358b2f-70a4-e73e-2e06-8ceed28c10c8@bradakis.com> <1UWDBETxYx.3CPoMUZrPPP@johns-desktop> <3b83ee30-1417-c4ec-3e1d-b1475aaa9d5e@milleredp.com> <1UWDBJctYj.5HeWE6O1ANy@johns-desktop> Message-ID: Howdy, Something like this maybe? https://www.amazon.com/IVY-Classic-28112-Adaptor-Adapts/dp/B0052IP99C/ref=pd_lpo_263_t_0/141-5120391-8035615?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0052IP99C&pd_rd_r=9da3ea3d-acde-4e6f-94a6-13d94c9c6a32&pd_rd_w=pjbPb&pd_rd_wg=SQws5&pf_rd_p=7b36d496-f366-4631-94d3-61b87b52511b&pf_rd_r=TBP2C4EEVYMJJ48G1QHT&psc=1&refRID=TBP2C4EEVYMJJ48G1QHT I'm not sure what thread pitch a 5/8" grinder spindle uses. There's not a lot of wall thickness for a 5/8" to 1/2" adapter. Wouldn't surprise me if regular / coarse pitch stuff wouldn't have enough wall thickness for an adapter to work? It does look like there' some type of thread repair thing for those pitches though: https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/05864434 Mark Mark On Thu, Jul 30, 2020 at 4:18 PM john niolon wrote: > grinder does have a spindle nut that can be reversed to hold the larger > wheel... but the majority of > my 5/8" accessories are threaded > > j > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: John Miller > To: > Sent: 7/30/2020 11:05:07 AM > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] angle grinder spindle adapter > > ________________________________________________________________________________ > > > I want to do just the opposite. I want to 'convert' the grinder with > the smaller > > spindle to 5/8 so I can use my disc in it. I keep several grinders > ready. One > > with a cutoff wheel, one with grinding rock and one with a flap disk.. > and one with a wire] > > wheel... saves time switching out media... > > Doesn't the grinder already have a...uh...uh...thing that if you flip it > over it's got a 5/8in boss on it to center the wheel? > > I have never encountered an angle grinder that didn't have a centering > thing for a 5/8in wheel no matter the shaft size. > > John. > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jniolon at att.net > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/marka at maracing.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jniolon at att.net Thu Jul 30 15:12:28 2020 From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon) Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 16:12:28 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] angle grinder spindle adapter In-Reply-To: References: <1UWDADtsGE.2UDiU15BFLe.ref@johns-desktop> <1UWDADtsGE.2UDiU15BFLe@johns-desktop> <44358b2f-70a4-e73e-2e06-8ceed28c10c8@bradakis.com> <1UWDBETxYx.3CPoMUZrPPP@johns-desktop> <3b83ee30-1417-c4ec-3e1d-b1475aaa9d5e@milleredp.com> <1UWDBJctYj.5HeWE6O1ANy@johns-desktop> Message-ID: <1UWDBKGeNh.8MH6642Ut08@johns-desktop> Hi Mark, I found the same on Amazon but the internal threads are 1/2-20 and I need 1/2-13 so that won't work... although the thing on msc site might do the trick... I wonder if it's considered a one time on/off adapter, or would it take multiple on/off cycles on the external 5/8" thread ?? don't know what the red material on the adapter is.. I'll bookmark that page I contacted a local tool repair place (Toolsmith) explained my problem and he found a 6148 spindle (like mine) and he offered to try it in the 6145 grinder if I brought it by to see if it would fit... he cautioned that the gear drive might be larger for the larger spindle though. I'm gonna go by there next week and see what happens Worst case is that I use the small spindle grinder for disk that are not threaded and use the spindle nut reversed to take up the slack in a 5/8 hole disc and use the grinder with the 5/8 spindle for the threaded stuff... It would be nice if everything worked in everything, but that has never happened in my 73 years (tomorrow) on this earth, why should it happen now ??? 2020 sheese? I think I hear thunder... but based on this year... it could be Godzilla !!!!! john ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Andy To: john niolon Cc: John Miller , shop-talk Sent: 7/30/2020 3:30:00 PM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] angle grinder spindle adapter Howdy, Something like this maybe? https://www.amazon.com/IVY-Classic-28112-Adaptor-Adapts/dp/B0052IP99C/ref=pd_lpo_263_t_0/141-5120391-8035615?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0052IP99C&pd_rd_r=9da3ea3d-acde-4e6f-94a6-13d94c9c6a32&pd_rd_w=pjbPb&pd_rd_wg=SQws5&pf_rd_p=7b36d496-f366-4631-94d3-61b87b52511b&pf_rd_r=TBP2C4EEVYMJJ48G1QHT&psc=1&refRID=TBP2C4EEVYMJJ48G1QHT I'm not sure what thread pitch a 5/8" grinder spindle uses. There's not a lot of wall thickness for a 5/8" to 1/2" adapter. Wouldn't surprise me if regular / coarse pitch stuff wouldn't have enough wall thickness for an adapter to work? It does look like there' some type of thread repair thing for those pitches though: https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/05864434 Mark Mark On Thu, Jul 30, 2020 at 4:18 PM john niolon wrote: grinder does have a spindle nut that can be reversed to hold the larger wheel... but the majority of my 5/8" accessories are threaded j ----- Original Message ----- From: John Miller To: Sent: 7/30/2020 11:05:07 AM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] angle grinder spindle adapter ________________________________________________________________________________ > I want to do just the opposite. I want to 'convert' the grinder with the smaller > spindle to 5/8 so I can use my disc in it. I keep several grinders ready. One > with a cutoff wheel, one with grinding rock and one with a flap disk.. and one with a wire] > wheel... saves time switching out media... Doesn't the grinder already have a...uh...uh...thing that if you flip it over it's got a 5/8in boss on it to center the wheel? I have never encountered an angle grinder that didn't have a centering thing for a 5/8in wheel no matter the shaft size. John. _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jniolon at att.net _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/marka at maracing.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From marka at maracing.com Thu Jul 30 16:47:49 2020 From: marka at maracing.com (Mark Andy) Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 18:47:49 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] angle grinder spindle adapter In-Reply-To: <1UWDBKGeNh.8MH6642Ut08@johns-desktop> References: <1UWDADtsGE.2UDiU15BFLe.ref@johns-desktop> <1UWDADtsGE.2UDiU15BFLe@johns-desktop> <44358b2f-70a4-e73e-2e06-8ceed28c10c8@bradakis.com> <1UWDBETxYx.3CPoMUZrPPP@johns-desktop> <3b83ee30-1417-c4ec-3e1d-b1475aaa9d5e@milleredp.com> <1UWDBJctYj.5HeWE6O1ANy@johns-desktop> <1UWDBKGeNh.8MH6642Ut08@johns-desktop> Message-ID: Howdy, The thing I linked was a thread repair insert, IIRC. I looked up the minor diameter for 5/8-11 thread and you only have a couple hundreths over 1/2"... Probably why you won't find an adapter. Honestly, you can never have too many 4.5" angle grinders... I'd just dedicate this one to non-thread on stuff and buy another one with a 5/8-11 spindle. :) Mark On Thu, Jul 30, 2020 at 5:12 PM john niolon wrote: > Hi Mark, I found the same on Amazon but the internal threads are 1/2-20 > and I need 1/2-13 so that won't work... although the thing on msc site > might do the trick... I wonder if it's considered a one time on/off > adapter, or would it take multiple on/off cycles on the external 5/8" > thread ?? > don't know what the red material on the adapter is.. I'll bookmark that > page > > I contacted a local tool repair place (Toolsmith) explained my problem > and he found a 6148 spindle (like mine) and he offered to try it in the > 6145 grinder if I brought it by to see if it would fit... he cautioned > that the gear drive might be larger for the larger spindle though. I'm > gonna go by > there next week and see what happens > > Worst case is that I use the small spindle grinder for disk that are not > threaded and use the spindle nut reversed to take up the slack in a 5/8 > hole disc > and use the grinder with the 5/8 spindle for the threaded stuff... It > would be nice if everything worked in everything, but that has never > happened in my 73 years > (tomorrow) on this earth, why should it happen now ??? > > 2020 sheese? I think I hear thunder... but based on this year... it > could be Godzilla !!!!! > > john > > > > *----- Original Message -----* > *From:* Mark Andy > *To:* john niolon > *Cc:* John Miller , shop-talk > > *Sent:* 7/30/2020 3:30:00 PM > *Subject:* Re: [Shop-talk] angle grinder spindle adapter > ------------------------------ > Howdy, > > Something like this maybe? > > > https://www.amazon.com/IVY-Classic-28112-Adaptor-Adapts/dp/B0052IP99C/ref=pd_lpo_263_t_0/141-5120391-8035615?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0052IP99C&pd_rd_r=9da3ea3d-acde-4e6f-94a6-13d94c9c6a32&pd_rd_w=pjbPb&pd_rd_wg=SQws5&pf_rd_p=7b36d496-f366-4631-94d3-61b87b52511b&pf_rd_r=TBP2C4EEVYMJJ48G1QHT&psc=1&refRID=TBP2C4EEVYMJJ48G1QHT > > > I'm not sure what thread pitch a 5/8" grinder spindle uses. > > There's not a lot of wall thickness for a 5/8" to 1/2" adapter. Wouldn't > surprise me if regular / coarse pitch stuff wouldn't have enough wall > thickness for an adapter to work? > > It does look like there' some type of thread repair thing for those > pitches though: > > https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/05864434 > > Mark > > Mark > > On Thu, Jul 30, 2020 at 4:18 PM john niolon wrote: > >> grinder does have a spindle nut that can be reversed to hold the larger >> wheel... but the majority of >> my 5/8" accessories are threaded >> >> j >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: John Miller >> To: >> Sent: 7/30/2020 11:05:07 AM >> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] angle grinder spindle adapter >> >> ________________________________________________________________________________ >> >> > I want to do just the opposite. I want to 'convert' the grinder with >> the smaller >> > spindle to 5/8 so I can use my disc in it. I keep several grinders >> ready. One >> > with a cutoff wheel, one with grinding rock and one with a flap disk.. >> and one with a wire] >> > wheel... saves time switching out media... >> >> Doesn't the grinder already have a...uh...uh...thing that if you flip it >> over it's got a 5/8in boss on it to center the wheel? >> >> I have never encountered an angle grinder that didn't have a centering >> thing for a 5/8in wheel no matter the shaft size. >> >> John. >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jniolon at att.net >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/marka at maracing.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jem at milleredp.com Thu Jul 30 16:53:25 2020 From: jem at milleredp.com (John Miller) Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 15:53:25 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] angle grinder spindle adapter In-Reply-To: References: <1UWDADtsGE.2UDiU15BFLe.ref@johns-desktop> <1UWDADtsGE.2UDiU15BFLe@johns-desktop> <44358b2f-70a4-e73e-2e06-8ceed28c10c8@bradakis.com> <1UWDBETxYx.3CPoMUZrPPP@johns-desktop> <3b83ee30-1417-c4ec-3e1d-b1475aaa9d5e@milleredp.com> <1UWDBJctYj.5HeWE6O1ANy@johns-desktop> <1UWDBKGeNh.8MH6642Ut08@johns-desktop> Message-ID: > Honestly, you can never have too many 4.5" angle grinders... I'd just > dedicate this one to non-thread on stuff and buy another one with a > 5/8-11 spindle.? :) I maintain a stable of at least 5 Harbor Freight in such form, the $25 cheapest ones generally suck but the next notch $25 up will last forever. John. From jniolon at att.net Thu Jul 30 18:15:44 2020 From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon) Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 19:15:44 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] angle grinder spindle adapter In-Reply-To: References: <1UWDADtsGE.2UDiU15BFLe.ref@johns-desktop> <1UWDADtsGE.2UDiU15BFLe@johns-desktop> <44358b2f-70a4-e73e-2e06-8ceed28c10c8@bradakis.com> <1UWDBETxYx.3CPoMUZrPPP@johns-desktop> <3b83ee30-1417-c4ec-3e1d-b1475aaa9d5e@milleredp.com> <1UWDBJctYj.5HeWE6O1ANy@johns-desktop> <1UWDBKGeNh.8MH6642Ut08@johns-desktop> Message-ID: <1UWDBMJqi7.9D3MFoGQz7m@johns-desktop> my herd ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Andy To: john niolon Cc: shop-talk Sent: 7/30/2020 5:47:49 PM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] angle grinder spindle adapter Howdy, The thing I linked was a thread repair insert, IIRC. I looked up the minor diameter for 5/8-11 thread and you only have a couple hundreths over 1/2"... Probably why you won't find an adapter. Honestly, you can never have too many 4.5" angle grinders... I'd just dedicate this one to non-thread on stuff and buy another one with a 5/8-11 spindle. :) Mark On Thu, Jul 30, 2020 at 5:12 PM john niolon wrote: Hi Mark, I found the same on Amazon but the internal threads are 1/2-20 and I need 1/2-13 so that won't work... although the thing on msc site might do the trick... I wonder if it's considered a one time on/off adapter, or would it take multiple on/off cycles on the external 5/8" thread ?? don't know what the red material on the adapter is.. I'll bookmark that page I contacted a local tool repair place (Toolsmith) explained my problem and he found a 6148 spindle (like mine) and he offered to try it in the 6145 grinder if I brought it by to see if it would fit... he cautioned that the gear drive might be larger for the larger spindle though. I'm gonna go by there next week and see what happens Worst case is that I use the small spindle grinder for disk that are not threaded and use the spindle nut reversed to take up the slack in a 5/8 hole disc and use the grinder with the 5/8 spindle for the threaded stuff... It would be nice if everything worked in everything, but that has never happened in my 73 years (tomorrow) on this earth, why should it happen now ??? 2020 sheese? I think I hear thunder... but based on this year... it could be Godzilla !!!!! john ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Andy To: john niolon Cc: John Miller , shop-talk Sent: 7/30/2020 3:30:00 PM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] angle grinder spindle adapter Howdy, Something like this maybe? https://www.amazon.com/IVY-Classic-28112-Adaptor- Adapts/dp/B0052IP99C/ref=pd_lpo_263_t_0/141-5120391- 8035615?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0052IP99C&pd_rd_r=9da3ea3d-acde-4e6f-94a6- 13d94c9c6a32&pd_rd_w=pjbPb&pd_rd_wg=SQws5&pf_rd_p=7b36d496-f366-4631-94d3- 61b87b52511b&pf_rd_r=TBP2C4EEVYMJJ48G1QHT&psc=1&refRID=TBP2C4EEVYMJJ48G1QHT I'm not sure what thread pitch a 5/8" grinder spindle uses. There's not a lot of wall thickness for a 5/8" to 1/2" adapter. Wouldn't surprise me if regular / coarse pitch stuff wouldn't have enough wall thickness for an adapter to work? It does look like there' some type of thread repair thing for those pitches though: https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/05864434 Mark Mark On Thu, Jul 30, 2020 at 4:18 PM john niolon wrote: grinder does have a spindle nut that can be reversed to hold the larger wheel... but the majority of my 5/8" accessories are threaded j ----- Original Message ----- From: John Miller To: Sent: 7/30/2020 11:05:07 AM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] angle grinder spindle adapter ________________________________________________________________________________ > I want to do just the opposite. I want to 'convert' the grinder with the smaller > spindle to 5/8 so I can use my disc in it. I keep several grinders ready. One > with a cutoff wheel, one with grinding rock and one with a flap disk.. and one with a wire] > wheel... saves time switching out media... Doesn't the grinder already have a...uh...uh...thing that if you flip it over it's got a 5/8in boss on it to center the wheel? I have never encountered an angle grinder that didn't have a centering thing for a 5/8in wheel no matter the shaft size. John. _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop- talk/jniolon at att.net _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop- talk/marka at maracing.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Img_1170 - Copy.jpg Type: image/pjpeg Size: 309663 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bk13 at earthlink.net Thu Jul 30 21:47:32 2020 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 20:47:32 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] attic fan switches (does this exist?) In-Reply-To: <9b3f74de-b2ee-1bed-1fff-9f940e79bb6d@comcast.net> References: <9b3f74de-b2ee-1bed-1fff-9f940e79bb6d@comcast.net> Message-ID: <92c5175a-e4c5-4527-99b3-a35dbdff99ef@earthlink.net> I agree that the circuit below looks like a good way to go to manually turn on the fan if you can drop a wire from the fan thermostat box to your switch box.? Run the hot on the black and color or tape the white wire black to indicate it is switched so the next owner of your house doesn't think it is a neutral. You might want to use a mechanical timer switch if you are concerned about forgetting to turn the fan off.? Sample: https://www.homedepot.com/p/TORK-A500-series-Multi-Volt-125-250-277-VAC-60-Minute-Springwound-Auto-Off-In-Wall-Timer-White-A560MW/205580572 Brian On 7/30/2020 7:00 AM, Donald H Locker wrote: > I would think a simple single-pole switch wired with its contacts in > parallel with the thermostatic switch contacts would do the job. > > / > |--o/ o--| Bedside switch > | | > | ____ | > Line (Black) ----o o----...---Fan motor (That's a t'stat switch in-line) > > Donald. > -- > *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue > () no proprietary attachments; no html mail > /\ > > On 2020-07-30 9:49 a.m., eric at megageek.com wrote: >> Jeff asks about a switch to override the thermostat >> >> Over all, I just want a switch near my bed to override the thermostat. >> ?I really didn't want to get into complex home automation as I find it >> ore of a pain. ?I do still use X-10 because it is some much more bullet >> proof than modern protocols (and secure, no IOT) >> >> >> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a >> rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your >> territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson >> -Who is John Galt? >> > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net > From bbubeck01 at gmail.com Fri Jul 31 05:50:02 2020 From: bbubeck01 at gmail.com (Bruce Bubeck) Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 07:50:02 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] attic fan switches (does this exist?) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Peter, Not sure if this was mentioned already but make sure that whatever switch you use has a motor rating for the fan you have. Some of those switches are only rated for lighting loads. Bruce On Thu, Jul 30, 2020 at 11:00 AM Peter Murray wrote: > My solution is to have a switch in-line with the thermostat, in our > upstairs hallway. When I don't want to hear the fan at 11pm, I switch it > off. > > My fan in my attic has the standard mechanical thermostat that came with > it. I think I set it a hair too low, or the hysteresis is too broad, > because it'll still be running at 11pm. Then again, we've had 27+ days of > 90+ here in Northern Virginia. It is nearly 11am here now and 89 degrees, > and the fan is not on yet. (Hmm, did I turn the switch back on?) > > I know, Pat's heart bleeds for me. > > I like the idea of making operation of the fan a bit more sophisticated, > but writing Arduino code is likely more than my wife, 3 kids under 8 and > self-employment will allow. I'm looking at Home Assistant and some Z-Wave > devices, but need to do more research before I start spending on hardware. > > The problem I'd had was that I wanted the fan to run to reduce melting > when we had ice dams developing at the roof edge. Of course, the proper > solution is to improve my insulation up there! > > -Peter > > On Thu, Jul 30, 2020 at 10:18 AM Pat Horne wrote: > >> I?m not familiar with x-10 but I assume you will be using like a >> controller for a table lamp where the output is a socket. If you have a >> controller with isolated contacts it?s even easier. >> >> If you want the x-10 to override the thermostat so that the fan runs >> until you turn it off, all you need to do plug a relay into the controller >> & wire its normally open contacts across the thermostat. >> >> Peace, >> Pat >> >> Pat Horne >> We support Habitat for Humanity >> >> >> On Jul 30, 2020, at 5:34 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote: >> >> ?I have an attic fan that is on a thermostatic switch. >> >> I was wondering if there was a way that I can have it on a thermostatic >> switch AND a remote switch (like X-10) >> >> What happens is that I want to turn on the fan on some nights or days, >> but it isn't hot enough to trigger it to go off. If I reduce the >> temperature setting, it stays on most on the time. >> >> But I do want it to go on if it gets too hot when I'm not home. >> >> Is there anything like this on the market? I also couldn't figure out >> how to wire 2 separate switches safely to accomplish this. >> >> Any ideas? >> >> Thanks. >> >> Mule >> >> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational >> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph >> Waldo Emerson >> -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bbubeck01 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dmscheidt at gmail.com Fri Jul 31 11:41:11 2020 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 12:41:11 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] angle grinder spindle adapter In-Reply-To: <1UWDBMJqi7.9D3MFoGQz7m@johns-desktop> References: <1UWDADtsGE.2UDiU15BFLe.ref@johns-desktop> <1UWDADtsGE.2UDiU15BFLe@johns-desktop> <44358b2f-70a4-e73e-2e06-8ceed28c10c8@bradakis.com> <1UWDBETxYx.3CPoMUZrPPP@johns-desktop> <3b83ee30-1417-c4ec-3e1d-b1475aaa9d5e@milleredp.com> <1UWDBJctYj.5HeWE6O1ANy@johns-desktop> <1UWDBKGeNh.8MH6642Ut08@johns-desktop> <1UWDBMJqi7.9D3MFoGQz7m@johns-desktop> Message-ID: On Thu, Jul 30, 2020 at 7:16 PM john niolon wrote: > > my herd > > > > good to see they all have guards on them. -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jniolon at att.net Fri Jul 31 14:59:30 2020 From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon) Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 15:59:30 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] angle grinder spindle adapter In-Reply-To: References: <1UWDADtsGE.2UDiU15BFLe.ref@johns-desktop> <44358b2f-70a4-e73e-2e06-8ceed28c10c8@bradakis.com> <1UWDBETxYx.3CPoMUZrPPP@johns-desktop> <3b83ee30-1417-c4ec-3e1d-b1475aaa9d5e@milleredp.com> <1UWDBJctYj.5HeWE6O1ANy@johns-desktop> <1UWDBKGeNh.8MH6642Ut08@johns-desktop> <1UWDBMJqi7.9D3MFoGQz7m@johns-desktop> Message-ID: <1UWDCPaJsq.Bg3ZUiMIHxm@johns-desktop> part time safety man for a mill maintenance/pipefitter outfit.... It's one thing I have to complain to them about the most ----- Original Message ----- From: David Scheidt To: john niolon , shop-talk Sent: 7/31/2020 12:41:11 PM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] angle grinder spindle adapter On Thu, Jul 30, 2020 at 7:16 PM john niolon wrote: my herd good to see they all have guards on them. -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Fri Jul 31 16:17:46 2020 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 18:17:46 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] angle grinder spindle adapter In-Reply-To: <1UWDCPaJsq.Bg3ZUiMIHxm@johns-desktop> References: <1UWDADtsGE.2UDiU15BFLe.ref@johns-desktop> <44358b2f-70a4-e73e-2e06-8ceed28c10c8@bradakis.com> <1UWDBETxYx.3CPoMUZrPPP@johns-desktop> <3b83ee30-1417-c4ec-3e1d-b1475aaa9d5e@milleredp.com> <1UWDBJctYj.5HeWE6O1ANy@johns-desktop> <1UWDBKGeNh.8MH6642Ut08@johns-desktop> <1UWDBMJqi7.9D3MFoGQz7m@johns-desktop> <1UWDCPaJsq.Bg3ZUiMIHxm@johns-desktop> Message-ID: Where's the face shield hanging next to them? ;^) On Fri, Jul 31, 2020, 17:00 john niolon wrote: > part time safety man for a mill maintenance/pipefitter outfit.... It's one > thing I have to complain to them about the most > > > > *----- Original Message -----* > *From:* David Scheidt > *To:* john niolon , shop-talk > *Sent:* 7/31/2020 12:41:11 PM > *Subject:* Re: [Shop-talk] angle grinder spindle adapter > ------------------------------ > > > On Thu, Jul 30, 2020 at 7:16 PM john niolon wrote: > >> >> my herd >> >> >> >> good to see they all have guards on them. > > > -- > David Scheidt > dmscheidt at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Fri Jul 31 16:20:10 2020 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 18:20:10 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Piston Rings Pliers Message-ID: Assembling my Spitfire engine. Bought quality piston rings, so I figure I ought to use the proper tools to install them. Anything magic about them, or will any $10 pair from Amazon work just fine? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From patintexas at icloud.com Fri Jul 31 16:36:32 2020 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 17:36:32 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Piston Rings Pliers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <37615653-9FE9-4449-A72D-2D3AE13841C9@icloud.com> Thanks for posting your question so THATSwhat those pliers are in my tool chest! I haven?t used them yet but am starting an engine rebuild coming up. As to which to buy, I?d go with the Lisle 33500 on eBay for $10. USA made. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jul 31, 2020, at 5:20 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: ? Assembling my Spitfire engine. Bought quality piston rings, so I figure I ought to use the proper tools to install them. Anything magic about them, or will any $10 pair from Amazon work just fine? _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com From peterwmurray at gmail.com Fri Jul 31 18:37:56 2020 From: peterwmurray at gmail.com (Peter Murray) Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 20:37:56 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] attic fan switches (does this exist?) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Bruce- Thanks for the tip. I hadn't thought about any rating further than the typical residential lighting load when I grabbed the switch from the contractor box of 10. I'm certain it was a bog-standard 2 horsepower switch, though. I don't believe the motor is over 1/3 hp. -Peter On Fri, Jul 31, 2020 at 7:50 AM Bruce Bubeck wrote: > Peter, > Not sure if this was mentioned already but make sure that whatever switch > you use has a motor rating for the fan you have. Some of those switches are > only rated for lighting loads. > Bruce > > On Thu, Jul 30, 2020 at 11:00 AM Peter Murray > wrote: > >> My solution is to have a switch in-line with the thermostat, in our >> upstairs hallway. When I don't want to hear the fan at 11pm, I switch it >> off. >> >> My fan in my attic has the standard mechanical thermostat that came with >> it. I think I set it a hair too low, or the hysteresis is too broad, >> because it'll still be running at 11pm. Then again, we've had 27+ days of >> 90+ here in Northern Virginia. It is nearly 11am here now and 89 degrees, >> and the fan is not on yet. (Hmm, did I turn the switch back on?) >> >> I know, Pat's heart bleeds for me. >> >> I like the idea of making operation of the fan a bit more sophisticated, >> but writing Arduino code is likely more than my wife, 3 kids under 8 and >> self-employment will allow. I'm looking at Home Assistant and some Z-Wave >> devices, but need to do more research before I start spending on hardware. >> >> The problem I'd had was that I wanted the fan to run to reduce melting >> when we had ice dams developing at the roof edge. Of course, the proper >> solution is to improve my insulation up there! >> >> -Peter >> >> On Thu, Jul 30, 2020 at 10:18 AM Pat Horne wrote: >> >>> I?m not familiar with x-10 but I assume you will be using like a >>> controller for a table lamp where the output is a socket. If you have a >>> controller with isolated contacts it?s even easier. >>> >>> If you want the x-10 to override the thermostat so that the fan runs >>> until you turn it off, all you need to do plug a relay into the controller >>> & wire its normally open contacts across the thermostat. >>> >>> Peace, >>> Pat >>> >>> Pat Horne >>> We support Habitat for Humanity >>> >>> >>> On Jul 30, 2020, at 5:34 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote: >>> >>> ?I have an attic fan that is on a thermostatic switch. >>> >>> I was wondering if there was a way that I can have it on a thermostatic >>> switch AND a remote switch (like X-10) >>> >>> What happens is that I want to turn on the fan on some nights or days, >>> but it isn't hot enough to trigger it to go off. If I reduce the >>> temperature setting, it stays on most on the time. >>> >>> But I do want it to go on if it gets too hot when I'm not home. >>> >>> Is there anything like this on the market? I also couldn't figure out >>> how to wire 2 separate switches safely to accomplish this. >>> >>> Any ideas? >>> >>> Thanks. >>> >>> Mule >>> >>> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a >>> rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." >>> Ralph Waldo Emerson >>> -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________ >>> >>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray at gmail.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bbubeck01 at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From peterwmurray at gmail.com Fri Jul 31 18:44:09 2020 From: peterwmurray at gmail.com (Peter Murray) Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 20:44:09 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Piston Rings Pliers In-Reply-To: <37615653-9FE9-4449-A72D-2D3AE13841C9@icloud.com> References: <37615653-9FE9-4449-A72D-2D3AE13841C9@icloud.com> Message-ID: Most auto-parts places should have them for about $10. My local O'Reily's has them for $9.99. No waiting for shipping, and you're more likely to get an actual one, and not a Chinese knockoff! Jeff, I'm sure what Pat suggests will work with the LS you're installing in the Spitfire. Should be a hoot when finished! -Peter On Fri, Jul 31, 2020 at 6:37 PM Pat Horne wrote: > Thanks for posting your question so THATSwhat those pliers are in my tool > chest! I haven?t used them yet but am starting an engine rebuild coming up. > > As to which to buy, I?d go with the Lisle 33500 on eBay for $10. USA made. > > Peace, > Pat > > Pat Horne > We support Habitat for Humanity > > > On Jul 31, 2020, at 5:20 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > > ? > Assembling my Spitfire engine. Bought quality piston rings, so I figure I > ought to use the proper tools to install them. Anything magic about them, > or will any $10 pair from Amazon work just fine? > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com Fri Jul 31 19:27:27 2020 From: pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com (PJ McGarvey) Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2020 01:27:27 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Piston Rings Pliers In-Reply-To: References: <37615653-9FE9-4449-A72D-2D3AE13841C9@icloud.com>, Message-ID: These have worked fine for me https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009OMYC4/ rebuilding my LS1 Miata. You can also do it by hand, but never tried. PJ ________________________________ From: Shop-talk on behalf of Peter Murray Sent: Friday, July 31, 2020 8:44 PM To: Pat Horne Cc: shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Piston Rings Pliers Most auto-parts places should have them for about $10. My local O'Reily's has them for $9.99. No waiting for shipping, and you're more likely to get an actual one, and not a Chinese knockoff! Jeff, I'm sure what Pat suggests will work with the LS you're installing in the Spitfire. Should be a hoot when finished! -Peter On Fri, Jul 31, 2020 at 6:37 PM Pat Horne > wrote: Thanks for posting your question so THATSwhat those pliers are in my tool chest! I haven?t used them yet but am starting an engine rebuild coming up. As to which to buy, I?d go with the Lisle 33500 on eBay for $10. USA made. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jul 31, 2020, at 5:20 PM, Jeff Scarbrough > wrote: ? Assembling my Spitfire engine. Bought quality piston rings, so I figure I ought to use the proper tools to install them. Anything magic about them, or will any $10 pair from Amazon work just fine? _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Fri Jul 31 19:33:37 2020 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 21:33:37 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Piston Rings Pliers In-Reply-To: References: <37615653-9FE9-4449-A72D-2D3AE13841C9@icloud.com> Message-ID: On Fri, Jul 31, 2020 at 8:44 PM Peter Murray wrote: > Should be a hoot when finished! > >> That's my plan. Ported and polished head, aluminum Fidenza flywheel, components all balanced... A hoot is exactly what I'm going for. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Fri Jul 31 19:35:35 2020 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 21:35:35 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Piston Rings Pliers In-Reply-To: References: <37615653-9FE9-4449-A72D-2D3AE13841C9@icloud.com> Message-ID: On Fri, Jul 31, 2020 at 9:31 PM PJ McGarvey wrote: > These have worked fine for me > https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009OMYC4/ rebuilding my LS1 Miata. > Same thing Pat recommended. I can have them sent to the same shop where I'm getting my Plastigauge for the same price. > > You can also do it by hand, but never tried. > For ten bucks, I feel like I should not take the risk... ;) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jniolon at att.net Fri Jul 31 20:02:15 2020 From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon) Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 21:02:15 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] angle grinder spindle adapter In-Reply-To: References: <1UWDADtsGE.2UDiU15BFLe.ref@johns-desktop> <3b83ee30-1417-c4ec-3e1d-b1475aaa9d5e@milleredp.com> <1UWDBJctYj.5HeWE6O1ANy@johns-desktop> <1UWDBKGeNh.8MH6642Ut08@johns-desktop> <1UWDBMJqi7.9D3MFoGQz7m@johns-desktop> <1UWDCPaJsq.Bg3ZUiMIHxm@johns-desktop> Message-ID: <1UWDCTG5Yw.CO1Sjik8WH9@johns-desktop> that table moves around a lot... the face shield is hanging over my pedestal grinder ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeff Scarbrough To: john niolon Cc: David Scheidt , shop-talk Sent: 7/31/2020 5:17:46 PM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] angle grinder spindle adapter Where's the face shield hanging next to them? ;^) On Fri, Jul 31, 2020, 17:00 john niolon wrote: part time safety man for a mill maintenance/pipefitter outfit.... It's one thing I have to complain to them about the most ----- Original Message ----- From: David Scheidt To: john niolon , shop-talk Sent: 7/31/2020 12:41:11 PM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] angle grinder spindle adapter On Thu, Jul 30, 2020 at 7:16 PM john niolon wrote: my herd good to see they all have guards on them. -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop- talk/fishplate at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Img_3004.jpg Type: image/pjpeg Size: 63152 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jul 31 21:27:36 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 20:27:36 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Piston Rings Pliers In-Reply-To: References: <37615653-9FE9-4449-A72D-2D3AE13841C9@icloud.com> Message-ID: <34c51c87-2558-35f4-2246-e94b76391c87@comcast.net> I got a fiver says the O'Reilly set is made in China. I paid good money for a Lisle brake tubing bender and, well, you know. On 7/31/2020 5:44 PM, Peter Murray wrote: > Most auto-parts places should have them for about $10. My local > O'Reily's?has them for $9.99. No waiting for shipping, and you're more > likely to get an actual one, and not a Chinese knockoff! > > Jeff, I'm sure what Pat suggests will?work with the LS you're > installing in the Spitfire. Should be a hoot when finished! > > -Peter > > On Fri, Jul 31, 2020 at 6:37 PM Pat Horne > wrote: > > Thanks for posting your question so THATSwhat those pliers are in > my tool chest! I haven?t used them yet but am starting an engine > rebuild coming up. > > As to which to buy, I?d go with the Lisle 33500 on eBay for $10. > USA made. > > Peace, > Pat > > Pat Horne > We support Habitat for Humanity > > > On Jul 31, 2020, at 5:20 PM, Jeff Scarbrough > wrote: > > ? > Assembling my Spitfire engine.? Bought quality piston rings, so I > figure I ought to use the proper tools to install them. Anything > magic about them, or will any $10 pair from Amazon work just fine? > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: