From kentsu at corvairkid.com Wed Jan 1 23:42:56 2020 From: kentsu at corvairkid.com (Kent Sullivan) Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2020 06:42:56 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Wanted: Socket rail clips Message-ID: <007a01d5c137$ddd05e00$99711a00$@corvairkid.com> Hi, My older son got me all fixed up with a set of Carlyle (NAPA) socket rails and clips for Christmas. Wouldn?t you know that I am short 2 of the ?? drive clips? https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CHQSR12RC They are only sold in bags of 25 or so? I really don?t want to buy a whole bag since the others will just go to waste. (What?! Yes, I am admitting that my collection of sockets does not grow continually.) Anyone out there have a two extra of these? I have 10+ of the 3/8? size to offer anyone in need? Happy New Year, --Kent -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jniolon at att.net Sat Jan 4 08:26:35 2020 From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 09:26:35 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] notching metal References: <7D49F48755C149679D1590FBA44A7E4B.ref@Johnsdesktop> Message-ID: <7D49F48755C149679D1590FBA44A7E4B@Johnsdesktop> Need some metal working expertise. I know there is a simpler way to notch metal than what I?m using. I had to fabricate a latch thingy for a neighbor using 3/8? plate which required a rectangular notch to be cut in the plate about 3/4? wide and 3? deep. I used a Metabo grinder with a .040 cutting disc to cut the sides but how to cut the back end of the notch. I thought about a saber saw with a metal blade but the notch was very narrow and it would have been difficult in that small area. Guess I could have used a hole saw at the back of the notch and then squared up with a file... I couldn?t reach in the gap with a 4.5? grinder to hog it out... finally I drilled a number of holes across the back line of the notch, broke out the slug and finished it with a file to make it square. There has to be a better way. Can?t find a hand tool to handle 3/8? material and notching machines aren?t in my budget.. give me some suggestions and options or ideas, that haven?t dawned on my feeble old brain ! john https://jniolon.classicpickup.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org Sat Jan 4 09:45:28 2020 From: shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org (Ian McFetridge) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 11:45:28 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] notching metal In-Reply-To: <7D49F48755C149679D1590FBA44A7E4B@Johnsdesktop> References: <7D49F48755C149679D1590FBA44A7E4B.ref@Johnsdesktop> <7D49F48755C149679D1590FBA44A7E4B@Johnsdesktop> Message-ID: I'm not sure how helpful this will be, but when I worked in a machine shop and made similar, I used an endmill with the material mounted vertical in a fixture. If it was thin, I would sandwich it between two sacrificial pieces of metal. Absent an endmill, you may be able to duplicate it with a drill press or possibly a router. Any excuse for a new tool! Here are some ideas https://www.google.com/search?q=router+mill+jig&oq=router+mill+jig&aqs=chrome..69i57.3054j1j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 On Sat, Jan 4, 2020 at 10:26 AM john niolon via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > Need some metal working expertise. I know there is a simpler way to > notch metal than what I?m using. I had to fabricate a latch thingy for a > neighbor using 3/8? plate which required a rectangular notch to be cut in > the plate about 3/4? wide and 3? deep. I used a Metabo grinder with a .040 > cutting disc to cut the sides but how to cut the back end of the notch. I > thought about a saber saw with a metal blade but the notch was very narrow > and it would have been difficult in that small area. Guess I could have > used a hole saw at the back of the notch and then squared up with a file... > > I couldn?t reach in the gap with a 4.5? grinder to hog it out... finally I > drilled a number of holes across the back line of the notch, broke out the > slug and finished it with a file to make it square. There has to be a > better way. Can?t find a hand tool to handle 3/8? material and notching > machines aren?t in my budget.. > > give me some suggestions and options or ideas, that haven?t dawned on my > feeble old brain ! > > john > > https://jniolon.classicpickup.com/ > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From patintexas at icloud.com Sat Jan 4 09:56:44 2020 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 10:56:44 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] notching metal In-Reply-To: <7D49F48755C149679D1590FBA44A7E4B@Johnsdesktop> References: <7D49F48755C149679D1590FBA44A7E4B@Johnsdesktop> Message-ID: <884400E4-6F37-4B56-A191-A2E818F3ED40@icloud.com> Easy, plasma cutter! John, this is not an easy task. I?d try a combination of methods. Once the sides are cut, holes are drilled & piece is broken off, grab the jig saw to clean out what?s left. Is it crucial that the notch have a square bottom? If not just use a Large bit to drill out a hole to give you a radiused slot bottom. Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity > On Jan 4, 2020, at 9:27 AM, john niolon via Shop-talk wrote: > ? Need some metal working expertise. I know there is a simpler way to notch metal than what I?m using. I had to fabricate a latch thingy for a neighbor using 3/8? plate which required a rectangular notch to be cut in the plate about 3/4? wide and 3? deep. I used a Metabo grinder with a .040 cutting disc to cut the sides but how to cut the back end of the notch. I thought about a saber saw with a metal blade but the notch was very narrow and it would have been difficult in that small area. Guess I could have used a hole saw at the back of the notch and then squared up with a file... I couldn?t reach in the gap with a 4.5? grinder to hog it out... finally I drilled a number of holes across the back line of the notch, broke out the slug and finished it with a file to make it square. There has to be a better way. Can?t find a hand tool to handle 3/8? material and notching machines aren?t in my budget.. give me some suggestions and options or ideas, that haven?t dawned on my feeble old brain ! john https://jniolon.classicpickup.com/ _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 1789alpine at gmail.com Sat Jan 4 10:19:19 2020 From: 1789alpine at gmail.com (Jim Stone) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 12:19:19 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] notching metal In-Reply-To: <884400E4-6F37-4B56-A191-A2E818F3ED40@icloud.com> References: <7D49F48755C149679D1590FBA44A7E4B@Johnsdesktop> <884400E4-6F37-4B56-A191-A2E818F3ED40@icloud.com> Message-ID: I?ve used a cutoff wheel in my Dremel before for smaller cuts, finishing the corners with a jigsaw. 3/4? is pretty narrow and you might have to cut from both sides to get all the way through, but the jigsaw cleanup should be pretty easy after that. Most Dremel cutoffs I?ve tried are crap that break way too easily, but I?ve had good luck with the EZ Lock wheels. https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-EZ406-02-Cut-Off-Mandrel-Cutting/dp/B000FBLRVA/ref=sr_1_5?crid=117BCIAHMHP0P&keywords=dremel+ez+lock+metal+cutting+wheel&qid=1578158034&sprefix=Dremel+e%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-5 . > On Jan 4, 2020, at 11:56 AM, Pat Horne via Shop-talk wrote: > > Easy, plasma cutter! > > John, this is not an easy task. I?d try a combination of methods. Once the sides are cut, holes are drilled & piece is broken off, grab the jig saw to clean out what?s left. > > Is it crucial that the notch have a square bottom? If not just use a Large bit to drill out a hole to give you a radiused slot bottom. > > Pat Horne > We support Habitat for Humanity > > >> On Jan 4, 2020, at 9:27 AM, john niolon via Shop-talk wrote: >> > > ? > Need some metal working expertise. I know there is a simpler way to notch metal than what I?m using. I had to fabricate a latch thingy for a neighbor using 3/8? plate which required a rectangular notch to be cut in the plate about 3/4? wide and 3? deep. I used a Metabo grinder with a .040 cutting disc to cut the sides but how to cut the back end of the notch. I thought about a saber saw with a metal blade but the notch was very narrow and it would have been difficult in that small area. Guess I could have used a hole saw at the back of the notch and then squared up with a file... > > I couldn?t reach in the gap with a 4.5? grinder to hog it out... finally I drilled a number of holes across the back line of the notch, broke out the slug and finished it with a file to make it square. There has to be a better way. Can?t find a hand tool to handle 3/8? material and notching machines aren?t in my budget.. > > give me some suggestions and options or ideas, that haven?t dawned on my feeble old brain ! > > john > > https://jniolon.classicpickup.com/ > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789alpine at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dhlocker at comcast.net Sat Jan 4 12:32:39 2020 From: dhlocker at comcast.net (Donald H Locker) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 14:32:39 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Looking for design engineering expertise In-Reply-To: <25C3BCC0467A484085DA0535BE8EF922@DESKTOPTOA1F5G> References: <25C3BCC0467A484085DA0535BE8EF922@DESKTOPTOA1F5G> Message-ID: <30080dba-c4c8-1d67-45b8-c78221d0756e@comcast.net> The silence is deafening; sorry I can't help on specifics. I would think almost any thin-wall tube could be used for the sleeves and the lightest possible spring (lowest rate and length closest to locked-in-place balls) would be best. Beyond that, I'm of no real help. What is the expected lifetime (cycles, un-locked revolutions, and years) of the part? Donald. -- *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue () no proprietary attachments; no html mail /\ On 2019-12-23 7:30 p.m., Steve via Shop-talk wrote: > Here?s why I?m confused! > I?m trying to reverse engineer and then create a few copies > of a partially complete OVERRIDING ROLLER CLUTCH (one-way) > that we have available, in-house (see photos at bottom of post) > I need to re-create the missing spring cover sleeves and springs > that follow the rollers.? If you?ve got any experience with > OVERRIDING ROLLER CLUTCHES, you?ll know what I mean. > Related image > I?m hoping that there?s a simple value range that I can pick from and > maybe even find some already available spring covers and even springs > that can be adapted. > Image result for overriding roller clutch > If you?re interested in what this fits, it?s for a specific Gray & Davis > (Boston MA) > manufactured starter.? The original OVERRIDING ROLLER CLUTCH assembly was > a sub-assembly for G&D and supplied by Miesel Press, a Boston machine tool > manufacturer.? This starter was optionally available on Overland > automobiles in 1914. > Any suggestions? > Below is the actual 6 roller version (maybe inserted in the 1950s??) in > place of the > original 3 roller version.? We?re working with the 6 roller design, as > it?s interchangeable > with an original 3 roller version.? As can be seen, we?re missing the > springs and spring > cups that follow the rollers, keeping them ready to lock the rotor to > the shaft rotation. > > clip_image002clip_image004 > > Center rotor (w/ square drive) is 15mm thick > > Max diameter of rotor is 68mm > > Rollers are 15mm x 8mm dia. (or 5/16? dia.) ambiguous > > Square drive is 20 x 20mm > > Outer (containment) race machined into sprocket casting > > Steve Hammatt > Mount Vernon WA USA > 360-661-6060 > gsteve at hammatt.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dhlocker at comcast.net > From jniolon at att.net Sun Jan 12 10:07:47 2020 From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon) Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2020 11:07:47 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] battery charging rates References: Message-ID: I have a 24volt 4 amp charger for a handicapped scooter. It died. So I?m looking at chargers on the web I see a 2 amp charger that is quite a bit cheaper than the 4 amp... my question. what is the difference in charge time between the 2 amp and the 4 amp.. I?m assuming that the 2 amp will take twice as long to charge as the 4 amp ?? is that right figuring ?? john https://jniolon.classicpickup.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dirtbeard at gmail.com Sun Jan 12 10:27:07 2020 From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard) Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2020 09:27:07 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] battery charging rates In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi John, It probably will take a little longer, but not twice as long. The four amp charger would only be working at 100% capacity for a portion of the time and then gradual reduce the charge rate over time to zero. The two amp charger would run at 100% capacity perhaps for a a longer duration and then do the same as the four amp charger. On Sun, Jan 12, 2020 at 9:08 AM john niolon via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > I have a 24volt 4 amp charger for a handicapped scooter. It died. So I?m > looking at chargers on the web > > I see a 2 amp charger that is quite a bit cheaper than the 4 amp... my > question. what is the difference > in charge time between the 2 amp and the 4 amp.. I?m assuming that the 2 > amp will take twice as long to > charge as the 4 amp ?? is that right figuring ?? > > john > > > > https://jniolon.classicpickup.com/ > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Sun Jan 12 12:39:09 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2020 19:39:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] battery charging rates In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1250848295.6806209.1578857949495@mail.yahoo.com> Yes, pretty much.? If you can make it through the day on a charge and charge overnight it probably won't impact your lifestyle since it doesn't matter if the batteries get charged halfway through the night or towards sunrise.? If you need to recharge during the day your down time will be double. Dave -----Original Message----- From: john niolon via Shop-talk To: shop-talk Sent: Sun, Jan 12, 2020 11:08 am Subject: [Shop-talk] battery charging rates I have a 24volt 4 amp charger for a handicapped scooter.? It died. So I?m looking at chargers on the web?I see a 2 amp charger that is quite a bit cheaper than the 4 amp...? my question.? what is the differencein charge time between the 2 amp and the 4 amp..? I?m assuming that the 2 amp will take twice as long tocharge as the 4 amp ??? is that right figuring ???john https://jniolon.classicpickup.com/_______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From nogera at icloud.com Fri Jan 17 09:00:35 2020 From: nogera at icloud.com (Robert Nogueirao) Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2020 10:00:35 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Modern throw out bearings Message-ID: <8B173123-C719-430A-8789-19F5B30F13F4@icloud.com> ?Folks forgive me for asking a question which is not shop related but I just can?t seem to get a straight answer anywhere else. Are modern throwout bearings ( ball bearing not carbon block) designed to remain in no load contact with the pressure plate, that is, the bearing is always spinning? Just to b e clear, I too was taught to be sure to always allow clearance between the bearing and plate but does this apply to non adjustable direct action hydraulic clutches of today? Bob Nogueira From JIBrooks at live.com Fri Jan 17 16:54:26 2020 From: JIBrooks at live.com (Jack Brooks) Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2020 23:54:26 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Modern throw out bearings In-Reply-To: <8B173123-C719-430A-8789-19F5B30F13F4@icloud.com> References: <8B173123-C719-430A-8789-19F5B30F13F4@icloud.com> Message-ID: Bob, No, the bearing is not always in contact and it is only spinning on engagement. Jack -----Original Message----- From: Shop-talk On Behalf Of Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk Sent: Friday, January 17, 2020 8:01 AM To: Shop Talk Subject: [Shop-talk] Modern throw out bearings Folks forgive me for asking a question which is not shop related but I just can?t seem to get a straight answer anywhere else. Are modern throwout bearings ( ball bearing not carbon block) designed to remain in no load contact with the pressure plate, that is, the bearing is always spinning? Just to b e clear, I too was taught to be sure to always allow clearance between the bearing and plate but does this apply to non adjustable direct action hydraulic clutches of today? Bob Nogueira _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibrooks at live.com From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jan 17 19:08:34 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2020 18:08:34 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Oil Extractors Message-ID: <352abff1-c8d4-3d3b-ff3d-8371019389c5@comcast.net> Folks, What do y'all use to suck oil out of small engines?? I've got one of these, but it never worked worth a damn and the tubing got brittle and cracked pretty quickly: *https://tinyurl.com/uh4p7l6* The problem with it is no matter how fast I pumped there would never be sufficient vacuum in the canister to move the oil up and out of a sump.? I've got several small displacement engines that need their oil changed regularly--one is a gravel compactor that weighs over 200lbs--and trying to tip the engine enough to drain the oil is a real hassle (and messy).? Anyone know of something that works (I see HF has something similar, but the reviews are mixed and it seems to have the same issues as the 'Topsider'). TIA, Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org Fri Jan 17 19:45:19 2020 From: mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org (Jimmie Mayfield) Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2020 21:45:19 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Oil Extractors In-Reply-To: <352abff1-c8d4-3d3b-ff3d-8371019389c5@comcast.net> References: <352abff1-c8d4-3d3b-ff3d-8371019389c5@comcast.net> Message-ID: My mower and pressure washer have drain plugs near the (vertical) shafts.? It's kind of a pain in the ass to access on the pressure washer but it's still less messy than flipping the whole thing upside-down like the user manual recommends. J On 2020-01-17 21:08, Bob Spidell via Shop-talk wrote: > Folks, > > What do y'all use to suck oil out of small engines?? I've got one of > these, but it never worked worth a damn and the tubing got brittle and > cracked pretty quickly: > > *https://tinyurl.com/uh4p7l6* > > The problem with it is no matter how fast I pumped there would never > be sufficient vacuum in the canister to move the oil up and out of a > sump.? I've got several small displacement engines that need their oil > changed regularly--one is a gravel compactor that weighs over > 200lbs--and trying to tip the engine enough to drain the oil is a real > hassle (and messy).? Anyone know of something that works (I see HF has > something similar, but the reviews are mixed and it seems to have the > same issues as the 'Topsider'). > > TIA, > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bjzwissler at gmail.com Fri Jan 17 20:41:55 2020 From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Benjamin Zwissler) Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2020 22:41:55 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Oil Extractors In-Reply-To: References: <352abff1-c8d4-3d3b-ff3d-8371019389c5@comcast.net> Message-ID: I bought a venturi vacuum brake bleeder (uses compressed air to create vacuum) and it's so much easier than a mityvac. I got mine from wish.com for less than $15. The only issue you might have is the reservoir only holds about a pint. Ben On Fri, Jan 17, 2020, 9:45 PM Jimmie Mayfield via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > My mower and pressure washer have drain plugs near the (vertical) shafts. > It's kind of a pain in the ass to access on the pressure washer but it's > still less messy than flipping the whole thing upside-down like the user > manual recommends. > > J > > On 2020-01-17 21:08, Bob Spidell via Shop-talk wrote: > > Folks, > > What do y'all use to suck oil out of small engines? I've got one of > these, but it never worked worth a damn and the tubing got brittle and > cracked pretty quickly: > > *https://tinyurl.com/uh4p7l6 * > > The problem with it is no matter how fast I pumped there would never be > sufficient vacuum in the canister to move the oil up and out of a sump. > I've got several small displacement engines that need their oil changed > regularly--one is a gravel compactor that weighs over 200lbs--and trying to > tip the engine enough to drain the oil is a real hassle (and messy). > Anyone know of something that works (I see HF has something similar, but > the reviews are mixed and it seems to have the same issues as the > 'Topsider'). > > TIA, > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dirtbeard at gmail.com Sat Jan 18 09:43:32 2020 From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard) Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2020 08:43:32 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Oil Extractors In-Reply-To: <352abff1-c8d4-3d3b-ff3d-8371019389c5@comcast.net> References: <352abff1-c8d4-3d3b-ff3d-8371019389c5@comcast.net> Message-ID: I never used it, but good reviews for this manual one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BW393E2/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?pd_rd_i=B07N7XC7DM&pd_rd_w=qwI2x&pf_rd_p=45a72588-80f7-4414-9851-786f6c16d42b&pd_rd_wg=uaTiG&pf_rd_r=4YJJT5GNRVNP00P18JQD&pd_rd_r=5a488dda-f4ac-4d59-b1f8-0061fe2811c4&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyUE4wSVA4S05ZN09MJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTUwOTAxMkdNSU9LUkdKRE9KMyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjM3MDQyMVlYN0czWVVIUzk4MSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1 If you have access to a compressor, these are sort of the standard for doing it in the garage: https://www.amazon.com/ARKSEN-Portable-Operated-Drainage-Adjustable/dp/B00C0YKJ6E/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=oil+evacuator&qid=1579365699&s=automotive&sr=1-18 I do not own nor have I used either one of these personally. On Fri, Jan 17, 2020 at 6:08 PM Bob Spidell via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > Folks, > > What do y'all use to suck oil out of small engines? I've got one of > these, but it never worked worth a damn and the tubing got brittle and > cracked pretty quickly: > > *https://tinyurl.com/uh4p7l6 * > > The problem with it is no matter how fast I pumped there would never be > sufficient vacuum in the canister to move the oil up and out of a sump. > I've got several small displacement engines that need their oil changed > regularly--one is a gravel compactor that weighs over 200lbs--and trying to > tip the engine enough to drain the oil is a real hassle (and messy). > Anyone know of something that works (I see HF has something similar, but > the reviews are mixed and it seems to have the same issues as the > 'Topsider'). > > TIA, > Bob > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at live.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 18 13:08:26 2020 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2020 12:08:26 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Oil Extractors In-Reply-To: References: <352abff1-c8d4-3d3b-ff3d-8371019389c5@comcast.net> Message-ID: Probably I'm confused; but as I read it, this unit only uses air to force oil out of the container. It has no provision to suck oil from a vehicle into the container. A shame, really, as I might buy one if it had suction capability. The 12v transfer pump I bought last year to suck out transmission oil turned out to be worse than useless. -- Randall 56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver 71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild 71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild If you have access to a compressor, these are sort of the standard for doing it in the garage: https://www.amazon.com/ARKSEN-Portable-Operated-Drainage-Adjustable/dp/B00C0 YKJ6E/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=oil+evacuator &qid=1579365699&s=automotive&sr=1-18 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From strovato at optonline.net Sat Jan 18 14:03:24 2020 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2020 16:03:24 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Oil Extractors In-Reply-To: <352abff1-c8d4-3d3b-ff3d-8371019389c5@comcast.net> References: <352abff1-c8d4-3d3b-ff3d-8371019389c5@comcast.net> Message-ID: For my boat I use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Jabsco-17850-1012-DIY-Oil-Changer/dp/B001CX0WX4 My boat has essentially a car engine. The top of the dipstick tube is threaded to take a garden hose fitting. My oil changer came set up that way. There is also the option to use a thinner tube that would go down a dipstick hole. I imagine that would be what you would need for your small engines. I have been reasonably satisfied with it for my boat. I warm up the engine before I start. Warm oil pumps easier and quicker. One nice thing is the pump reverses, and the oil is pumped back out the hose into another container for recycling. There is no awkward pouring and no funnels are involved. -Steve T. At 09:08 PM 1/17/2020, Bob Spidell via Shop-talk wrote: >Folks, > >What do y'all use to suck oil out of small engines? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dirtbeard at gmail.com Sat Jan 18 14:51:03 2020 From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard) Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2020 13:51:03 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Oil Extractors In-Reply-To: References: <352abff1-c8d4-3d3b-ff3d-8371019389c5@comcast.net> Message-ID: Hi Randall, Yes, you are right. Sorry for the confusion. Here is one that does both: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=663t_MOQf-A $370, no review shown, but it does look like it might work... https://www.gregsmithequipment.com/18-Gallon-Oil-Extractor?utm_source=video&utm_medium=youtube&utm_campaign=description%20link On Sat, Jan 18, 2020 at 12:15 PM Randall via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > Probably I'm confused; but as I read it, this unit only uses air to force > oil out of the container. It has no provision to suck oil from a vehicle > into the container. > > A shame, really, as I might buy one if it had suction capability. The 12v > transfer pump I bought last year to suck out transmission oil turned out to > be worse than useless. > > > -- Randall > 56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver > 71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild > 71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild > > > If you have access to a compressor, these are sort of the standard for > doing it in the garage: > > > https://www.amazon.com/ARKSEN-Portable-Operated-Drainage-Adjustable/dp/B00C0YKJ6E/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=oil+evacuator&qid=1579365699&s=automotive&sr=1-18 > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Jan 18 17:21:51 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2020 16:21:51 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Oil Extractors In-Reply-To: References: <352abff1-c8d4-3d3b-ff3d-8371019389c5@comcast.net> Message-ID: <7a068f3a-36ae-61a0-b103-f71d27838a69@comcast.net> Found this: https://consumerexpert.org/best-oil-fluid-extractor-pumps/ ... which is a bit equivocal about the MityVac, agree? On 1/18/2020 12:50 PM, Ian McFetridge wrote: > I?ve had this MityVac since 2015 and it?s worked for everything I?ve > thrown at it. I originally bought it for my generator since the drain > is in an awkward?position, but I?ve used it for mowers, snow blower, > and several cars/trucks.? I creates plenty of vacuum to drain 8 > quarts, then it can conveniently be reversed to push the oil into > disposal containers.? I would buy the exact same thing again. > > Mityvac 7201 Fluid Evacuator Plus > https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR7TC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_p42iEb9N60KVW > > > > On Fri, Jan 17, 2020 at 6:08 PM Bob Spidell via Shop-talk > > wrote: > > Folks, > > What do y'all use to suck oil out of small engines? I've got > one of these, but it never worked worth a damn and the tubing > got brittle and cracked pretty quickly: > > *https://tinyurl.com/uh4p7l6* > > The problem with it is no matter how fast I pumped there would > never be sufficient vacuum in the canister to move the oil up > and out of a sump.? I've got several small displacement > engines that need their oil changed regularly--one is a gravel > compactor that weighs over 200lbs--and trying to tip the > engine enough to drain the oil is a real hassle (and messy). > Anyone know of something that works (I see HF has something > similar, but the reviews are mixed and it seems to have the > same issues as the 'Topsider'). > > TIA, > Bob > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Jan 18 21:35:48 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2020 20:35:48 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Oil Extractors In-Reply-To: References: <352abff1-c8d4-3d3b-ff3d-8371019389c5@comcast.net> Message-ID: Thanks for the input, guys.? I'm leaning towards this one: *https://tinyurl.com/uob8q38* Price is reasonable, and it's both manual and pneumatic.? There are several similar--i.e. probably made in the same factory in China with different brand names slapped-on--to this one, but this has the best price.? From reading a lot of reviews, it appears these are only good for a few years and maybe a few dozen uses before something breaks. Bob On 1/18/2020 1:51 PM, old dirtbeard via Shop-talk wrote: > Hi Randall, > > Yes, you are right. Sorry for the confusion. Here is one that does both: > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=663t_MOQf-A > > $370, no review shown, but it does look like it might work... > https://www.gregsmithequipment.com/18-Gallon-Oil-Extractor?utm_source=video&utm_medium=youtube&utm_campaign=description%20link > > > On Sat, Jan 18, 2020 at 12:15 PM Randall via Shop-talk > > wrote: > > Probably I'm confused; but as I read it, this unit only uses air > to force oil out of the container.? It has no provision to suck > oil from a vehicle into the container. > A shame, really, as I might buy one if it had suction capability.? > The 12v transfer pump I bought last year to suck out transmission > oil turned out to be worse than useless. > > -- Randall > 56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver > 71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild > 71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild > > > If you have access to a compressor, these are sort of the > standard for doing it in the garage: > > https://www.amazon.com/ARKSEN-Portable-Operated-Drainage-Adjustable/dp/B00C0YKJ6E/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=oil+evacuator&qid=1579365699&s=automotive&sr=1-18 > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dmscheidt at gmail.com Sun Jan 19 06:48:11 2020 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2020 07:48:11 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Oil Extractors In-Reply-To: <352abff1-c8d4-3d3b-ff3d-8371019389c5@comcast.net> References: <352abff1-c8d4-3d3b-ff3d-8371019389c5@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1DB1F851-5F3A-4187-8CFB-322CA69A69FA@gmail.com> > On Jan 17, 2020, at 20:08, Bob Spidell via Shop-talk wrote: > > Folks, > > What do y'all use to suck oil out of small engines? I've got one of these, but it never worked worth a damn and the tubing got brittle and cracked pretty quickly: > > https://tinyurl.com/uh4p7l6 > > The problem with it is no matter how fast I pumped there would never be sufficient vacuum in the canister to move the oil up and out of a sump. I've got several small displacement engines that need their oil changed regularly--one is a gravel compactor that weighs over 200lbs--and trying to tip the engine enough to drain the oil is a real hassle (and messy). Anyone know of something that works (I see HF has something similar, but the reviews are mixed and it seems to have the same issues as the 'Topsider'). My dad had one of those, and he and I used it for decades. I replaced the hoses a couple times, with stuff from whardware or auto parts store. The tricks were to get hoses that fit properly, and a better clamp to pinch the hose off with. Also hot oil, and keep the hose in the oil the whole time. (If it can suck air, the vacuum is gone fast. Close the valve and pump it back up,) I never used it on any thing but a small engines, on random lawn and farm tools, with a sump capacity of a couple quarts tops. > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From marka at maracing.com Fri Jan 17 22:16:48 2020 From: marka at maracing.com (Mark Andy) Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2020 23:16:48 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Oil Extractors In-Reply-To: References: <352abff1-c8d4-3d3b-ff3d-8371019389c5@comcast.net> Message-ID: Howdy, I have one of the I think fairl standard oil extractors. Guessing mine is a Mityvac, but its not in front of me so ?? Like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Mityvac-7-3-l-Fluid-Evacuator-MIT7400/306763761?mtc=Shopping-BA-F_HC-G-D25T-25_31_GARAGE_AUTOMOTIVE-NA-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-Auto_RLSA&cm_mmc=Shopping-BA-F_HC-G-D25T-25_31_GARAGE_AUTOMOTIVE-NA-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-Auto_RLSA-71700000037147753-58700004141485307-92700048672352091&gclid=Cj0KCQiA04XxBRD5ARIsAGFygj9zgBz8m8m-sV0p0Aj-_4r2IRqXApdI2vfTuRVkH3fP0COh5EoSEv8aAo3bEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds Mark On Fri, Jan 17, 2020 at 9:42 PM Benjamin Zwissler via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > I bought a venturi vacuum brake bleeder (uses compressed air to create > vacuum) and it's so much easier than a mityvac. I got mine from wish.com > for less than $15. The only issue you might have is the reservoir only > holds about a pint. > > Ben > > On Fri, Jan 17, 2020, 9:45 PM Jimmie Mayfield via Shop-talk < > shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> My mower and pressure washer have drain plugs near the (vertical) >> shafts. It's kind of a pain in the ass to access on the pressure washer >> but it's still less messy than flipping the whole thing upside-down like >> the user manual recommends. >> >> J >> >> On 2020-01-17 21:08, Bob Spidell via Shop-talk wrote: >> >> Folks, >> >> What do y'all use to suck oil out of small engines? I've got one of >> these, but it never worked worth a damn and the tubing got brittle and >> cracked pretty quickly: >> >> *https://tinyurl.com/uh4p7l6 * >> >> The problem with it is no matter how fast I pumped there would never be >> sufficient vacuum in the canister to move the oil up and out of a sump. >> I've got several small displacement engines that need their oil changed >> regularly--one is a gravel compactor that weighs over 200lbs--and trying to >> tip the engine enough to drain the oil is a real hassle (and messy). >> Anyone know of something that works (I see HF has something similar, but >> the reviews are mixed and it seems to have the same issues as the >> 'Topsider'). >> >> TIA, >> Bob >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/marka at maracing.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org Sat Jan 18 13:50:27 2020 From: shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org (Ian McFetridge) Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2020 15:50:27 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Oil Extractors In-Reply-To: References: <352abff1-c8d4-3d3b-ff3d-8371019389c5@comcast.net> Message-ID: I?ve had this MityVac since 2015 and it?s worked for everything I?ve thrown at it. I originally bought it for my generator since the drain is in an awkward position, but I?ve used it for mowers, snow blower, and several cars/trucks. I creates plenty of vacuum to drain 8 quarts, then it can conveniently be reversed to push the oil into disposal containers. I would buy the exact same thing again. Mityvac 7201 Fluid Evacuator Plus https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR7TC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_p42iEb9N60KVW > On Fri, Jan 17, 2020 at 6:08 PM Bob Spidell via Shop-talk < > shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> Folks, >> >> What do y'all use to suck oil out of small engines? I've got one of >> these, but it never worked worth a damn and the tubing got brittle and >> cracked pretty quickly: >> >> *https://tinyurl.com/uh4p7l6 * >> >> The problem with it is no matter how fast I pumped there would never be >> sufficient vacuum in the canister to move the oil up and out of a sump. >> I've got several small displacement engines that need their oil changed >> regularly--one is a gravel compactor that weighs over 200lbs--and trying to >> tip the engine enough to drain the oil is a real hassle (and messy). >> Anyone know of something that works (I see HF has something similar, but >> the reviews are mixed and it seems to have the same issues as the >> 'Topsider'). >> >> TIA, >> Bob >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gsteve at hammatt.com Mon Jan 20 16:16:05 2020 From: gsteve at hammatt.com (Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA) Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2020 15:16:05 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dayton or Superwinch lube Message-ID: I?ve got a Dayton powered winch (same as Superwinch) that spec?s call for their super magical lube for the sungears. It?s spec?d as P/N 90-15020. Does anyone have any or seen any or know what the equivalent might be? Would be helpful to know before I tear into it.......it?s new to me, but it?s sounding more like a cement mixer with a load of rocks. I?d imagine there?s nothing too special, but thought I?d check. Super thanks. Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA www.leatherplates.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From nogera at icloud.com Fri Jan 24 09:45:46 2020 From: nogera at icloud.com (Robert Nogueirao) Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2020 10:45:46 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Lawn mower replacement Message-ID: <652AC662-4E5A-413B-AD6E-3FDAEBB9B4C0@icloud.com> I have a 32 inch Zero turn radius lawnmower ( Gravely) that my tool and equipment loving wife bought for me 12 years ago. Does a great job and it is built literally like a tank, plate steel almost no sheet metal. Well the. Engine is pretty much ready to retire. A replacement engine will cost about $1200. For a bit more I could buy a new lawnmower but of much lower quality than the Gravely and not a zero turn, which I love. So to my question anyone have experience with the pump and servos on a zero turn as to longevity? I hate the thought of buying a replacement engine and having the pump or servo go out ($$$$.$$) Bob Nogueira From jdinnis at gmail.com Fri Jan 24 10:01:39 2020 From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis) Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2020 11:01:39 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Lawn mower replacement In-Reply-To: <652AC662-4E5A-413B-AD6E-3FDAEBB9B4C0@icloud.com> References: <652AC662-4E5A-413B-AD6E-3FDAEBB9B4C0@icloud.com> Message-ID: I have a 2002 Grasshopper with about 1200 hours on it. I had to replace a seal in the engine to fix an oil leak and I had to replace a broken cam ring in one of the Hydro units. Tha't about it.Overall the thing just keeps going. Gravely is about a half a step down from Grasshopper in my view, but I would think it would be worth keeping it. My only concern would be parts availability. As long as you can still get parts and do most of the work yourself, it is probably a good investment to keep it going. On Fri, Jan 24, 2020 at 10:46 AM Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > I have a 32 inch Zero turn radius lawnmower ( Gravely) that my tool and > equipment loving wife bought for me 12 years ago. Does a great job and it > is built literally like a tank, plate steel almost no sheet metal. Well > the. Engine is pretty much ready to retire. A replacement engine will > cost about $1200. For a bit more I could buy a new lawnmower but of much > lower quality than the Gravely and not a zero turn, which I love. > So to my question anyone have experience with the pump and servos on a > zero turn as to longevity? I hate the thought of buying a replacement > engine and having the pump or servo go out ($$$$.$$) > > Bob Nogueira > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com > > -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dirtbeard at gmail.com Fri Jan 24 10:14:32 2020 From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard) Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2020 09:14:32 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Lawn mower replacement In-Reply-To: <652AC662-4E5A-413B-AD6E-3FDAEBB9B4C0@icloud.com> References: <652AC662-4E5A-413B-AD6E-3FDAEBB9B4C0@icloud.com> Message-ID: Hi Bob, Have you thought about rebuilding the engine? Personally, that would be my first choice, check on the availability of parts, probably might need to have the cylinders bored, etc., but it could be a very enjoyable experience. Also, you could check ebay for a used engine. best, doug On Fri, Jan 24, 2020 at 8:45 AM Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > I have a 32 inch Zero turn radius lawnmower ( Gravely) that my tool and > equipment loving wife bought for me 12 years ago. Does a great job and it > is built literally like a tank, plate steel almost no sheet metal. Well > the. Engine is pretty much ready to retire. A replacement engine will > cost about $1200. For a bit more I could buy a new lawnmower but of much > lower quality than the Gravely and not a zero turn, which I love. > So to my question anyone have experience with the pump and servos on a > zero turn as to longevity? I hate the thought of buying a replacement > engine and having the pump or servo go out ($$$$.$$) > > Bob Nogueira > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jamesf at groupwbench.org Mon Jan 27 06:32:37 2020 From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin) Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2020 08:32:37 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Rivets for luggage strap? Message-ID: <09AC115E-D597-4C5D-B24E-C48EF5CE2D2D@groupwbench.org> I have a large roller suitcase that has a nylon strap and buckle riveted into the body just under the grab handle for hooking a laptop bag, or the telescoping handle of a carry-on bag, so that they are piggybacked. The plastic buckle broke, and while I can just use a loop around the big suitcase's grab handle, it slides around and the smaller suitcase starts fishtailing and eventually rolls over. I'd like to replace the buckles but they are held in by a loop secured with a flat top, seemingly proprietary rivet (stamped "Olympia"). The underside has a concave dished washer and normal deformed rivet tail though it doesn't protrude beyond the concavity of teh washer. Can I install the same type of rivet or should I get ones that are pounded together and flat on both sides? I don't see a way to deform the existing type without a big machine. thanks, jim -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: smime.p7s Type: application/pkcs7-signature Size: 1386 bytes Desc: not available URL: From dmscheidt at gmail.com Mon Jan 27 08:39:32 2020 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2020 09:39:32 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Rivets for luggage strap? In-Reply-To: <09AC115E-D597-4C5D-B24E-C48EF5CE2D2D@groupwbench.org> References: <09AC115E-D597-4C5D-B24E-C48EF5CE2D2D@groupwbench.org> Message-ID: <483A2C61-1A59-48BE-A41D-B0F4A82875D4@gmail.com> > On Jan 27, 2020, at 07:32, Jim Franklin via Shop-talk wrote: > > I have a large roller suitcase that has a nylon strap and buckle riveted into the body just under the grab handle for hooking a laptop bag, or the telescoping handle of a carry-on bag, so that they are piggybacked. > > The plastic buckle broke, and while I can just use a loop around the big suitcase's grab handle, it slides around and the smaller suitcase starts fishtailing and eventually rolls over. I'd like to replace the buckles but they are held in by a loop secured with a flat top, seemingly proprietary rivet (stamped "Olympia"). > There is such things as repair buckles, which fit over an existing webbing loop. I would look for a suitable option before you attack the rivets. The buckles usually hav a slit in them that allow the webbings to be fed through.