From eric at megageek.com  Fri Dec  4 13:00:53 2020
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2020 15:00:53 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] bandsaw blades
Message-ID: <OF143D98C6.F671F82E-ON85258634.006DB496-85258634.006DF27F@mail.megageek.com>

Guys,

I have a couple of bandsaw blades that are dull.  These are the 24 TPI or 
greater blades that have too many teeth to sharpen manually (this is off a 
14" bandsaw.)

Do you guys know of anything I can do with them, or just chuck up 
(recycle?)

Thanks.

Moose.



"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?
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From fishplate at gmail.com  Fri Dec  4 14:15:46 2020
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2020 16:15:46 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] bandsaw blades
In-Reply-To: <OF143D98C6.F671F82E-ON85258634.006DB496-85258634.006DF27F@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF143D98C6.F671F82E-ON85258634.006DB496-85258634.006DF27F@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CP7o-GkEmjbVwMFAS1YkAJerVA-TZDQfv+HeQN0_C1F=g@mail.gmail.com>

Make a set of lock picking tools?

Forge a knife blade?

On Fri, Dec 4, 2020 at 3:08 PM <eric at megageek.com> wrote:
>
> Guys,
>
> I have a couple of bandsaw blades that are dull.  These are the 24 TPI or greater blades that have too many teeth to sharpen manually (this is off a 14" bandsaw.)
>
> Do you guys know of anything I can do with them, or just chuck up (recycle?)
>
> Thanks.
>
> Moose.
>
>
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt? _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate at gmail.com
>

From shannahquilts at gmail.com  Fri Dec  4 14:32:18 2020
From: shannahquilts at gmail.com (Shannah Miller)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2020 13:32:18 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] bandsaw blades
In-Reply-To: <OF143D98C6.F671F82E-ON85258634.006DB496-85258634.006DF27F@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF143D98C6.F671F82E-ON85258634.006DB496-85258634.006DF27F@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <CAAy7z=2hNRiZrpKhv+WKQd7UL8T-fHTRcPBjK1bABOBvh_ONyA@mail.gmail.com>

I agree with the suggestion to make a knife blade.
Bandsaw blades are good in canister Damascus.

Alternately, cut them into 14" lengths, and make
bread saws out of them?

Shannah

On Fri, Dec 4, 2020 at 12:08 PM <eric at megageek.com> wrote:

> Guys,
>
> I have a couple of bandsaw blades that are dull.  These are the 24 TPI or
> greater blades that have too many teeth to sharpen manually (this is off a
> 14" bandsaw.)
>
> Do you guys know of anything I can do with them, or just chuck up
> (recycle?)
>
> Thanks.
>
> Moose.
>
>
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt? _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shannahquilts at gmail.com
>
>
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From tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com  Sun Dec  6 15:01:32 2020
From: tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com (Tim .)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 22:01:32 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
Message-ID: <DS7PR19MB4629B30759F1252E8590CD53B4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>

Hey all,

Is it possible for a fixture to fail? We have this four-bulb fixture over the mirror in one of the bathrooms. It no longer works. Bulbs are good and no breaker tripped.

thanks
tim
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From dirtbeard at gmail.com  Sun Dec  6 15:05:41 2020
From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 14:05:41 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
In-Reply-To: <DS7PR19MB4629B30759F1252E8590CD53B4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DS7PR19MB4629B30759F1252E8590CD53B4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAG1pxgbdxeZ8q3jGGNvGFukmZ65SU=AKhSpJfMw0Vu1xWLbb3g@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Tim

Is it a fluorescent fixture? If so it could be the ballast. It also may be
the switch. I would try a meter at the switch if you have a neutral there
to test it.

best,

doug

On Sun, Dec 6, 2020 at 2:01 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com> wrote:

> Hey all,
>
> Is it possible for a fixture to fail? We have this four-bulb fixture over
> the mirror in one of the bathrooms. It no longer works. Bulbs are good and
> no breaker tripped.
>
> thanks
> tim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com
>
>
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From eric at megageek.com  Sun Dec  6 15:06:39 2020
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 17:06:39 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
In-Reply-To: <DS7PR19MB4629B30759F1252E8590CD53B4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DS7PR19MB4629B30759F1252E8590CD53B4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <OF465172A9.4F2748F1-ON85258636.00795145-85258636.007975BA@mail.megageek.com>

They can absolutely fail.  Much of these are cheaper imports and 
connections that heat and cool over and over again can fail over time.

I'm actually just working on a scuba tank lamp and the fixture the guy 
wanted me to use had this exact problem.

Good news, they are SUPER easy to fix!


"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?



From:   "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>
To:     "Shop  Talk" <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Date:   12/06/2020 05:01 PM
Subject:        [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
Sent by:        "Shop-talk" <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net>



Hey all, 

Is it possible for a fixture to fail? We have this four-bulb fixture over 
the mirror in one of the bathrooms. It no longer works. Bulbs are good and 
no breaker tripped. 

thanks
tim_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk 
http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eric at megageek.com




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From tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com  Sun Dec  6 15:06:39 2020
From: tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com (Tim .)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 22:06:39 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
In-Reply-To: <CAG1pxgbdxeZ8q3jGGNvGFukmZ65SU=AKhSpJfMw0Vu1xWLbb3g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <DS7PR19MB4629B30759F1252E8590CD53B4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>,
 <CAG1pxgbdxeZ8q3jGGNvGFukmZ65SU=AKhSpJfMw0Vu1xWLbb3g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DS7PR19MB46293CDA51742163CDEC8174B4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>

no, incandescent fixture.

________________________________
From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard at gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 6, 2020 4:05 PM
To: Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?

Hi Tim

Is it a fluorescent fixture? If so it could be the ballast. It also may be the switch. I would try a meter at the switch if you have a neutral there to test it.

best,

doug

On Sun, Dec 6, 2020 at 2:01 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com<mailto:tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>> wrote:
Hey all,

Is it possible for a fixture to fail? We have this four-bulb fixture over the mirror in one of the bathrooms. It no longer works. Bulbs are good and no breaker tripped.

thanks
tim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net<mailto:Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com

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From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Sun Dec  6 15:12:12 2020
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 16:12:12 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
In-Reply-To: <DS7PR19MB4629B30759F1252E8590CD53B4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DS7PR19MB4629B30759F1252E8590CD53B4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <F60FD0B7-68E9-4ED2-BCC4-65A94174A9E0@gmail.com>



> On Dec 6, 2020, at 16:01, Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com> wrote:
> 
> Hey all, 
> 
> Is it possible for a fixture to fail? We have this four-bulb fixture over the mirror in one of the bathrooms. It no longer works. Bulbs are good and no breaker tripped. 
> 
> thanks

A classic incandescent fixture doesn?t have much to go wrong. A few splices, and the sockets. A newer fixture probably has some current limiting devices (to keep you from putting 100 w incandescent bulbs in a fixture rated for 26w cfls).  Those do fail. 

Take it down, verify the connection is good, and that there is power. If that checks out, take the luminaire appart, and inspect it. 
> 
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From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Sun Dec  6 15:15:26 2020
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Benjamin Zwissler)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 17:15:26 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
In-Reply-To: <DS7PR19MB46293CDA51742163CDEC8174B4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DS7PR19MB4629B30759F1252E8590CD53B4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAG1pxgbdxeZ8q3jGGNvGFukmZ65SU=AKhSpJfMw0Vu1xWLbb3g@mail.gmail.com>
 <DS7PR19MB46293CDA51742163CDEC8174B4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAMHq6Zw+EHLsc=NdKDrgJGxYKkN-6BWWjOcr5Jh047o64TLU-Q@mail.gmail.com>

Sometimes it's just the wire nuts and replacing them or tightening will
help.  Sometimes the internal crimps corrode and fail in a most bathroom.

I had someone who put four 100w bulbs in one and that's a lot of heat and
current.  Most have a 60w limit.  If the bulbs are enclosed by the fixture
there may be a high temp limit switch, but I've never seen one of those in
simple light bars.

Ben

On Sun, Dec 6, 2020, 5:07 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com> wrote:

> no, incandescent fixture.
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* old dirtbeard <dirtbeard at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Sunday, December 6, 2020 4:05 PM
> *To:* Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>
> *Cc:* Shop Talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
>
> Hi Tim
>
> Is it a fluorescent fixture? If so it could be the ballast. It also may be
> the switch. I would try a meter at the switch if you have a neutral there
> to test it.
>
> best,
>
> doug
>
> On Sun, Dec 6, 2020 at 2:01 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>
> wrote:
>
> Hey all,
>
> Is it possible for a fixture to fail? We have this four-bulb fixture over
> the mirror in one of the bathrooms. It no longer works. Bulbs are good and
> no breaker tripped.
>
> thanks
> tim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler at gmail.com
>
>
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From tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com  Sun Dec  6 15:16:55 2020
From: tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com (Tim .)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 22:16:55 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
In-Reply-To: <CAMHq6Zw+EHLsc=NdKDrgJGxYKkN-6BWWjOcr5Jh047o64TLU-Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <DS7PR19MB4629B30759F1252E8590CD53B4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAG1pxgbdxeZ8q3jGGNvGFukmZ65SU=AKhSpJfMw0Vu1xWLbb3g@mail.gmail.com>
 <DS7PR19MB46293CDA51742163CDEC8174B4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>,
 <CAMHq6Zw+EHLsc=NdKDrgJGxYKkN-6BWWjOcr5Jh047o64TLU-Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DS7PR19MB462938786AA0AD865358F6CBB4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>

three of the bulbs are LED so no heat issues.

I'll grab the multi meter tomorrow and do some checking

thanks all

________________________________
From: Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler at gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 6, 2020 4:15 PM
To: Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>
Cc: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard at gmail.com>; Shop Talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?

Sometimes it's just the wire nuts and replacing them or tightening will help.  Sometimes the internal crimps corrode and fail in a most bathroom.

I had someone who put four 100w bulbs in one and that's a lot of heat and current.  Most have a 60w limit.  If the bulbs are enclosed by the fixture there may be a high temp limit switch, but I've never seen one of those in simple light bars.

Ben

On Sun, Dec 6, 2020, 5:07 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com<mailto:tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>> wrote:
no, incandescent fixture.

________________________________
From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard at gmail.com<mailto:dirtbeard at gmail.com>>
Sent: Sunday, December 6, 2020 4:05 PM
To: Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com<mailto:tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net<mailto:shop-talk at autox.team.net>>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?

Hi Tim

Is it a fluorescent fixture? If so it could be the ballast. It also may be the switch. I would try a meter at the switch if you have a neutral there to test it.

best,

doug

On Sun, Dec 6, 2020 at 2:01 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com<mailto:tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>> wrote:
Hey all,

Is it possible for a fixture to fail? We have this four-bulb fixture over the mirror in one of the bathrooms. It no longer works. Bulbs are good and no breaker tripped.

thanks
tim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net<mailto:Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net<mailto:Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

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From 1789alpine at gmail.com  Sun Dec  6 15:20:05 2020
From: 1789alpine at gmail.com (Jim Stone)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 17:20:05 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
In-Reply-To: <DS7PR19MB462938786AA0AD865358F6CBB4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DS7PR19MB4629B30759F1252E8590CD53B4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAG1pxgbdxeZ8q3jGGNvGFukmZ65SU=AKhSpJfMw0Vu1xWLbb3g@mail.gmail.com>
 <DS7PR19MB46293CDA51742163CDEC8174B4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAMHq6Zw+EHLsc=NdKDrgJGxYKkN-6BWWjOcr5Jh047o64TLU-Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <DS7PR19MB462938786AA0AD865358F6CBB4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <31201A8F-AF1E-479B-86C0-4FC9AF59DA5F@gmail.com>

Switches fail all of the time, too.  Don?t forget to check that.

> On Dec 6, 2020, at 5:16 PM, Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com> wrote:
> 
> three of the bulbs are LED so no heat issues. 
> 
> I'll grab the multi meter tomorrow and do some checking
>  
> thanks all
> 
> From: Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler at gmail.com>
> Sent: Sunday, December 6, 2020 4:15 PM
> To: Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>
> Cc: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard at gmail.com>; Shop Talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
>  
> Sometimes it's just the wire nuts and replacing them or tightening will help.  Sometimes the internal crimps corrode and fail in a most bathroom.  
> 
> I had someone who put four 100w bulbs in one and that's a lot of heat and current.  Most have a 60w limit.  If the bulbs are enclosed by the fixture there may be a high temp limit switch, but I've never seen one of those in simple light bars.
> 
> Ben
> 
> On Sun, Dec 6, 2020, 5:07 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com <mailto:tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>> wrote:
> no, incandescent fixture. 
> 
> From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard at gmail.com <mailto:dirtbeard at gmail.com>>
> Sent: Sunday, December 6, 2020 4:05 PM
> To: Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com <mailto:tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>>
> Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:shop-talk at autox.team.net>>
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
>  
> Hi Tim
> 
> Is it a fluorescent fixture? If so it could be the ballast. It also may be the switch. I would try a meter at the switch if you have a neutral there to test it.
> 
> best,
> 
> doug
> 
> On Sun, Dec 6, 2020 at 2:01 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com <mailto:tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>> wrote:
> Hey all, 
> 
> Is it possible for a fixture to fail? We have this four-bulb fixture over the mirror in one of the bathrooms. It no longer works. Bulbs are good and no breaker tripped. 
> 
> thanks
> tim
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk <http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com>
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk <http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler at gmail.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler at gmail.com>
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789alpine at gmail.com

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From bk13 at earthlink.net  Sun Dec  6 16:26:18 2020
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 15:26:18 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
In-Reply-To: <DS7PR19MB4629B30759F1252E8590CD53B4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DS7PR19MB4629B30759F1252E8590CD53B4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <8a676e36-fee2-831c-b4af-11d6321b3c09@earthlink.net>

Yes.? Spent too much time trying to fix an exterior light that had a 
socket go bad.? It was a corroded rivet that joined the wire to the 
socket.? Use a non-contact voltage tester and see if you still have 
power to the socket.? These things are great for a basic power check.

Sample: https://www.harborfreight.com/non-contact-voltage-tester-63919.html

Test for power to the socket with the bulb out, then to the light 
junction box, then to the switch.? Get the tester close and it will beep 
if there is power.

Also check any GFCI breakers in the bathroom.? The lights might be on a 
tripped circuit.

Brian

On 12/6/2020 2:01 PM, Tim . wrote:
> Hey all,
>
> Is it possible for a fixture to fail? We have this four-bulb fixture 
> over the mirror in one of the bathrooms. It no longer works. Bulbs are 
> good and no breaker tripped.
>
> thanks
> tim
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net
>

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From brabel at comcast.net  Sun Dec  6 16:31:54 2020
From: brabel at comcast.net (Bill Rabel)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 15:31:54 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
In-Reply-To: <DS7PR19MB462938786AA0AD865358F6CBB4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DS7PR19MB462938786AA0AD865358F6CBB4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <D4457194-4DC7-4C06-ADFC-01ECD193459C@comcast.net>

Check GFI in case the fixture is on a protected circuit. 

- Bill Rabel
  Anacortes

Since when do you have to agree with people to defend them from injustice?

- Lillian Hellman


> On Dec 6, 2020, at 2:17 PM, Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> three of the bulbs are LED so no heat issues. 
> 
> I'll grab the multi meter tomorrow and do some checking
>  
> thanks all
> 
> From: Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler at gmail.com>
> Sent: Sunday, December 6, 2020 4:15 PM
> To: Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>
> Cc: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard at gmail.com>; Shop Talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
>  
> Sometimes it's just the wire nuts and replacing them or tightening will help.  Sometimes the internal crimps corrode and fail in a most bathroom.  
> 
> I had someone who put four 100w bulbs in one and that's a lot of heat and current.  Most have a 60w limit.  If the bulbs are enclosed by the fixture there may be a high temp limit switch, but I've never seen one of those in simple light bars.
> 
> Ben
> 
> On Sun, Dec 6, 2020, 5:07 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com> wrote:
> no, incandescent fixture. 
> 
> From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard at gmail.com>
> Sent: Sunday, December 6, 2020 4:05 PM
> To: Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>
> Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
>  
> Hi Tim
> 
> Is it a fluorescent fixture? If so it could be the ballast. It also may be the switch. I would try a meter at the switch if you have a neutral there to test it.
> 
> best,
> 
> doug
> 
> On Sun, Dec 6, 2020 at 2:01 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com> wrote:
> Hey all, 
> 
> Is it possible for a fixture to fail? We have this four-bulb fixture over the mirror in one of the bathrooms. It no longer works. Bulbs are good and no breaker tripped. 
> 
> thanks
> tim
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at gmail.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler at gmail.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/brabel at comcast.net
> 
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From jamesf at groupwbench.org  Mon Dec  7 06:25:30 2020
From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2020 08:25:30 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Soil stack venting issue
Message-ID: <DFE739C8-B520-4FD2-9645-EDFA4E2636BE@groupwbench.org>

Maybe some of you have an innovative solution...

My house has a single cast iron soil stack that does both drain and vent. When I flush the toilet, it sucks air from the tub drain. The toilet and tub enter the stack separately, but at the same height, using an oddly specific T with a 4" toilet and a 2" tub inlet about 45 degrees apart. The tub does not have its own vent. 2 years ago I had a plumber snake the vent from the roof, he found "stuff", and it was fixed. Last week it started again.

My kitchen sink T's into the stack at knee height, so it's the highest item on the stack. My thought is, because it's a straight T, not a sanitary T, stuff from the sink is solidifying inside the T when the flow hits the back of the T, and eventually forming a cap of "stuff" just above the T entry, sealing off any venting. I can't tell if the sink is also being used as the toilet's vent because there are too many walls in the way to hear what's happening. 

My other thought is that the "stuff" is growing like a mold, and sealing it off. Does stuff grow in drains? 

Any thoughts on what it might be, and how to prevent it? I rarely put oils down the drain, and when I do they are cold and mixed with Dawn to emulsify it. There isn't enough canopy for leaves or squirrels to get in the roof vent. 

thanks,
jim

From neiljsherry at talktalk.net  Mon Dec  7 06:32:19 2020
From: neiljsherry at talktalk.net (Neil Sherry)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2020 13:32:19 -0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
In-Reply-To: <DS7PR19MB462938786AA0AD865358F6CBB4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DS7PR19MB4629B30759F1252E8590CD53B4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAG1pxgbdxeZ8q3jGGNvGFukmZ65SU=AKhSpJfMw0Vu1xWLbb3g@mail.gmail.com>
 <DS7PR19MB46293CDA51742163CDEC8174B4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>,
 <CAMHq6Zw+EHLsc=NdKDrgJGxYKkN-6BWWjOcr5Jh047o64TLU-Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <DS7PR19MB462938786AA0AD865358F6CBB4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <015a01d6cc9d$63ed34b0$2bc79e10$@talktalk.net>

If they are LED's and all gone off, there is probably a power supply unit to
drop supply to 12 volt and this has failed. Should be able to get a generic
one to replace it.

 

From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Tim .
Sent: 06 December 2020 22:17
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?

 

three of the bulbs are LED so no heat issues. 

 

I'll grab the multi meter tomorrow and do some checking

 

thanks all

 

  _____  

From: Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler at gmail.com <mailto:bjzwissler at gmail.com>
>
Sent: Sunday, December 6, 2020 4:15 PM
To: Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com
<mailto:tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com> >
Cc: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard at gmail.com <mailto:dirtbeard at gmail.com> >; Shop
Talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:shop-talk at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture? 

 

Sometimes it's just the wire nuts and replacing them or tightening will
help.  Sometimes the internal crimps corrode and fail in a most bathroom.   

 

I had someone who put four 100w bulbs in one and that's a lot of heat and
current.  Most have a 60w limit.  If the bulbs are enclosed by the fixture
there may be a high temp limit switch, but I've never seen one of those in
simple light bars. 

 

Ben

 

On Sun, Dec 6, 2020, 5:07 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com
<mailto:tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com> > wrote:

no, incandescent fixture. 

 

  _____  

From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard at gmail.com <mailto:dirtbeard at gmail.com> >
Sent: Sunday, December 6, 2020 4:05 PM
To: Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com
<mailto:tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com> >
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:shop-talk at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture? 

 

Hi Tim 

 

Is it a fluorescent fixture? If so it could be the ballast. It also may be
the switch. I would try a meter at the switch if you have a neutral there to
test it.

 

best,

 

doug

 

On Sun, Dec 6, 2020 at 2:01 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com
<mailto:tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com> > wrote:

Hey all, 

 

Is it possible for a fixture to fail? We have this four-bulb fixture over
the mirror in one of the bathrooms. It no longer works. Bulbs are good and
no breaker tripped. 

 

thanks

tim

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:Shop-talk at autox.team.net> 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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_______________________________________________

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Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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From jdinnis at gmail.com  Mon Dec  7 06:47:43 2020
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2020 07:47:43 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Soil stack venting issue
In-Reply-To: <DFE739C8-B520-4FD2-9645-EDFA4E2636BE@groupwbench.org>
References: <DFE739C8-B520-4FD2-9645-EDFA4E2636BE@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <CANuE7YB4UVr1hg5pc9Tt=ir6Kt3499dZ6409Bxvxnts+7AA4VA@mail.gmail.com>

I'd still suspect your roof vent.  Only time we ever had a vent problem it
was caused by animals trying to nest in or on the roof vent.  The plumber
we were working with insisted that he could not cover the vent pipe with
any sort of protector.  So after he left I made a wire cage box out of
stainless hardware cloth and never had another issue in the remaining 10
years we lived in that house.  I made the cage significantly larger than
the vent pipe.  I think it was about a 2.5" vent and there was at least 3"
or air space inside the cage on all sides.  I put a small piece of sheet
metal on the top of the cage directly over the vent pipe to keep any debris
out of the pipe should birds or other critters decide to nest on top of the
cage.  When we sold the house the home inspector flagged that as not being
to code, so I removed it and left it in the garage with a note for the
buyer.

On Mon, Dec 7, 2020 at 7:26 AM Jim Franklin <jamesf at groupwbench.org> wrote:

> Maybe some of you have an innovative solution...
>
> My house has a single cast iron soil stack that does both drain and vent.
> When I flush the toilet, it sucks air from the tub drain. The toilet and
> tub enter the stack separately, but at the same height, using an oddly
> specific T with a 4" toilet and a 2" tub inlet about 45 degrees apart. The
> tub does not have its own vent. 2 years ago I had a plumber snake the vent
> from the roof, he found "stuff", and it was fixed. Last week it started
> again.
>
> My kitchen sink T's into the stack at knee height, so it's the highest
> item on the stack. My thought is, because it's a straight T, not a sanitary
> T, stuff from the sink is solidifying inside the T when the flow hits the
> back of the T, and eventually forming a cap of "stuff" just above the T
> entry, sealing off any venting. I can't tell if the sink is also being used
> as the toilet's vent because there are too many walls in the way to hear
> what's happening.
>
> My other thought is that the "stuff" is growing like a mold, and sealing
> it off. Does stuff grow in drains?
>
> Any thoughts on what it might be, and how to prevent it? I rarely put oils
> down the drain, and when I do they are cold and mixed with Dawn to emulsify
> it. There isn't enough canopy for leaves or squirrels to get in the roof
> vent.
>
> thanks,
> jim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================
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From mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org  Mon Dec  7 06:53:33 2020
From: mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org (Jimmie Mayfield)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2020 08:53:33 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Soil stack venting issue
In-Reply-To: <DFE739C8-B520-4FD2-9645-EDFA4E2636BE@groupwbench.org>
References: <DFE739C8-B520-4FD2-9645-EDFA4E2636BE@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <b04a747b-3a17-ba48-1585-81a778189166@sackheads.org>

If it's grease build-up, you might try periodically pouring a gallon or 
two of boiling water down the kitchen sink.

You might consider buying one of those cheap USB endoscopes from Amazon 
or Ebay.? I bought one for about $15 on Prime Day a couple years ago.? 
The camera quality is pretty bad but they're pretty long...mine is about 
15 feet.? You could snake it down your kitchen drain clean-out and see 
for yourself what's going on inside your pipes.


On 12/7/20 08:25, Jim Franklin wrote:
> Maybe some of you have an innovative solution...
>
> My house has a single cast iron soil stack that does both drain and vent. When I flush the toilet, it sucks air from the tub drain. The toilet and tub enter the stack separately, but at the same height, using an oddly specific T with a 4" toilet and a 2" tub inlet about 45 degrees apart. The tub does not have its own vent. 2 years ago I had a plumber snake the vent from the roof, he found "stuff", and it was fixed. Last week it started again.
>
> My kitchen sink T's into the stack at knee height, so it's the highest item on the stack. My thought is, because it's a straight T, not a sanitary T, stuff from the sink is solidifying inside the T when the flow hits the back of the T, and eventually forming a cap of "stuff" just above the T entry, sealing off any venting. I can't tell if the sink is also being used as the toilet's vent because there are too many walls in the way to hear what's happening.
>
> My other thought is that the "stuff" is growing like a mold, and sealing it off. Does stuff grow in drains?
>
> Any thoughts on what it might be, and how to prevent it? I rarely put oils down the drain, and when I do they are cold and mixed with Dawn to emulsify it. There isn't enough canopy for leaves or squirrels to get in the roof vent.
>
> thanks,
> jim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org
>


From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Mon Dec  7 07:01:12 2020
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Benjamin Zwissler)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2020 09:01:12 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Soil stack venting issue
In-Reply-To: <DFE739C8-B520-4FD2-9645-EDFA4E2636BE@groupwbench.org>
References: <DFE739C8-B520-4FD2-9645-EDFA4E2636BE@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <CAMHq6Zwn0gC3bRtV-BU60fitNTBNR_VW-61o-HVVkGNLL623WQ@mail.gmail.com>

I've had two similar issues.  Both solved and one may be helpful to you.
BTW, my house is all PVC drains, but I'm not sure that matters.

My clothes washer drain shared a pipe with a floor drain and utility tub
(sink).  The floor drain began gurgling when water drained from the other
two.  I tried flushing it but that didn't help.  What did help was using
some bacteria based drain cleaner.  It claims to have helpful bacteria
that, among other things, eat soap scum.  That has worked for many years,
except when I flush a lot of harsh cleaners down the utility sink.  I used
to do some auto part washing in that sink, but don't any longer and I
haven't had to add more bacterial cleaner for a long time.  My thought was
the harsh chemicals were killing the bacteria.

The other example was on my HVAC unit's condensate drain.  It was nothing
but a gravity drain and after many years it began backing up occasionally
and then flooding the whole unit with water.  I could disconnect it and
blow through it and that was enough to clear the clog.  Also using that
pipe was a bathroom and the kitchen sink/dishwasher.  I tried lots of
things (bleach, detergent, bacterial drain cleaners, etc) thinking mold,
moss, grease, etc was blocking it, but in the end I installed an HVAC sump
with a pump that collects a quart or so of water and then pumps it out.
That's worked flawlessly for a few years --- until the pump breaks.

Ben


Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com
812-343-5533
Columbus, IN


On Mon, Dec 7, 2020 at 8:25 AM Jim Franklin <jamesf at groupwbench.org> wrote:

> Maybe some of you have an innovative solution...
>
> My house has a single cast iron soil stack that does both drain and vent.
> When I flush the toilet, it sucks air from the tub drain. The toilet and
> tub enter the stack separately, but at the same height, using an oddly
> specific T with a 4" toilet and a 2" tub inlet about 45 degrees apart. The
> tub does not have its own vent. 2 years ago I had a plumber snake the vent
> from the roof, he found "stuff", and it was fixed. Last week it started
> again.
>
> My kitchen sink T's into the stack at knee height, so it's the highest
> item on the stack. My thought is, because it's a straight T, not a sanitary
> T, stuff from the sink is solidifying inside the T when the flow hits the
> back of the T, and eventually forming a cap of "stuff" just above the T
> entry, sealing off any venting. I can't tell if the sink is also being used
> as the toilet's vent because there are too many walls in the way to hear
> what's happening.
>
> My other thought is that the "stuff" is growing like a mold, and sealing
> it off. Does stuff grow in drains?
>
> Any thoughts on what it might be, and how to prevent it? I rarely put oils
> down the drain, and when I do they are cold and mixed with Dawn to emulsify
> it. There isn't enough canopy for leaves or squirrels to get in the roof
> vent.
>
> thanks,
> jim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler at gmail.com
>
>
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From tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com  Mon Dec  7 15:44:47 2020
From: tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com (Tim .)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2020 22:44:47 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] bacteria based drain cleaner was Re: Soil stack venting
 issue
In-Reply-To: <CAMHq6Zwn0gC3bRtV-BU60fitNTBNR_VW-61o-HVVkGNLL623WQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <DFE739C8-B520-4FD2-9645-EDFA4E2636BE@groupwbench.org>,
 <CAMHq6Zwn0gC3bRtV-BU60fitNTBNR_VW-61o-HVVkGNLL623WQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DS7PR19MB4629A90EC5550D6C8BF3BF62B4CE0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>

Any favorites out there or brands to avoid?
thanks

________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler at gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, December 7, 2020 8:01 AM
To: Jim Franklin <jamesf at groupwbench.org>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Soil stack venting issue

I've had two similar issues.  Both solved and one may be helpful to you.  BTW, my house is all PVC drains, but I'm not sure that matters.

My clothes washer drain shared a pipe with a floor drain and utility tub (sink).  The floor drain began gurgling when water drained from the other two.  I tried flushing it but that didn't help.  What did help was using some bacteria based drain cleaner.  It claims to have helpful bacteria that, among other things, eat soap scum.  That has worked for many years, except when I flush a lot of harsh cleaners down the utility sink.  I used to do some auto part washing in that sink, but don't any longer and I haven't had to add more bacterial cleaner for a long time.  My thought was the harsh chemicals were killing the bacteria.

The other example was on my HVAC unit's condensate drain.  It was nothing but a gravity drain and after many years it began backing up occasionally and then flooding the whole unit with water.  I could disconnect it and blow through it and that was enough to clear the clog.  Also using that pipe was a bathroom and the kitchen sink/dishwasher.  I tried lots of things (bleach, detergent, bacterial drain cleaners, etc) thinking mold, moss, grease, etc was blocking it, but in the end I installed an HVAC sump with a pump that collects a quart or so of water and then pumps it out.  That's worked flawlessly for a few years --- until the pump breaks.

Ben


Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com<mailto:bjzwissler at gmail.com>
812-343-5533
Columbus, IN


On Mon, Dec 7, 2020 at 8:25 AM Jim Franklin <jamesf at groupwbench.org<mailto:jamesf at groupwbench.org>> wrote:
Maybe some of you have an innovative solution...

My house has a single cast iron soil stack that does both drain and vent. When I flush the toilet, it sucks air from the tub drain. The toilet and tub enter the stack separately, but at the same height, using an oddly specific T with a 4" toilet and a 2" tub inlet about 45 degrees apart. The tub does not have its own vent. 2 years ago I had a plumber snake the vent from the roof, he found "stuff", and it was fixed. Last week it started again.

My kitchen sink T's into the stack at knee height, so it's the highest item on the stack. My thought is, because it's a straight T, not a sanitary T, stuff from the sink is solidifying inside the T when the flow hits the back of the T, and eventually forming a cap of "stuff" just above the T entry, sealing off any venting. I can't tell if the sink is also being used as the toilet's vent because there are too many walls in the way to hear what's happening.

My other thought is that the "stuff" is growing like a mold, and sealing it off. Does stuff grow in drains?

Any thoughts on what it might be, and how to prevent it? I rarely put oils down the drain, and when I do they are cold and mixed with Dawn to emulsify it. There isn't enough canopy for leaves or squirrels to get in the roof vent.

thanks,
jim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net<mailto:Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Mon Dec  7 15:54:09 2020
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Benjamin Zwissler)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2020 17:54:09 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] bacteria based drain cleaner was Re: Soil stack
 venting issue
In-Reply-To: <DS7PR19MB4629A90EC5550D6C8BF3BF62B4CE0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DFE739C8-B520-4FD2-9645-EDFA4E2636BE@groupwbench.org>
 <CAMHq6Zwn0gC3bRtV-BU60fitNTBNR_VW-61o-HVVkGNLL623WQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <DS7PR19MB4629A90EC5550D6C8BF3BF62B4CE0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAMHq6ZzUACGAhZCh5QkZkBQMekHP_hqS8ToA4QaLpxFAW+RCrg@mail.gmail.com>

It's been a few years, but bought it either at Lowe's or Walmart and it was
a quart size plastic bottle with a powder you mixed with warm water.  I
think it was roebic brand.

Ben

On Mon, Dec 7, 2020, 5:47 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com> wrote:

> Any favorites out there or brands to avoid?
> thanks
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of
> Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, December 7, 2020 8:01 AM
> *To:* Jim Franklin <jamesf at groupwbench.org>
> *Cc:* Shop Talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Shop-talk] Soil stack venting issue
>
> I've had two similar issues.  Both solved and one may be helpful to you.
> BTW, my house is all PVC drains, but I'm not sure that matters.
>
> My clothes washer drain shared a pipe with a floor drain and utility tub
> (sink).  The floor drain began gurgling when water drained from the other
> two.  I tried flushing it but that didn't help.  What did help was using
> some bacteria based drain cleaner.  It claims to have helpful bacteria
> that, among other things, eat soap scum.  That has worked for many years,
> except when I flush a lot of harsh cleaners down the utility sink.  I used
> to do some auto part washing in that sink, but don't any longer and I
> haven't had to add more bacterial cleaner for a long time.  My thought was
> the harsh chemicals were killing the bacteria.
>
> The other example was on my HVAC unit's condensate drain.  It was nothing
> but a gravity drain and after many years it began backing up occasionally
> and then flooding the whole unit with water.  I could disconnect it and
> blow through it and that was enough to clear the clog.  Also using that
> pipe was a bathroom and the kitchen sink/dishwasher.  I tried lots of
> things (bleach, detergent, bacterial drain cleaners, etc) thinking mold,
> moss, grease, etc was blocking it, but in the end I installed an HVAC sump
> with a pump that collects a quart or so of water and then pumps it out.
> That's worked flawlessly for a few years --- until the pump breaks.
>
> Ben
>
>
> Ben Zwissler
> bjzwissler at gmail.com
> 812-343-5533
> Columbus, IN
>
>
> On Mon, Dec 7, 2020 at 8:25 AM Jim Franklin <jamesf at groupwbench.org>
> wrote:
>
> Maybe some of you have an innovative solution...
>
> My house has a single cast iron soil stack that does both drain and vent.
> When I flush the toilet, it sucks air from the tub drain. The toilet and
> tub enter the stack separately, but at the same height, using an oddly
> specific T with a 4" toilet and a 2" tub inlet about 45 degrees apart. The
> tub does not have its own vent. 2 years ago I had a plumber snake the vent
> from the roof, he found "stuff", and it was fixed. Last week it started
> again.
>
> My kitchen sink T's into the stack at knee height, so it's the highest
> item on the stack. My thought is, because it's a straight T, not a sanitary
> T, stuff from the sink is solidifying inside the T when the flow hits the
> back of the T, and eventually forming a cap of "stuff" just above the T
> entry, sealing off any venting. I can't tell if the sink is also being used
> as the toilet's vent because there are too many walls in the way to hear
> what's happening.
>
> My other thought is that the "stuff" is growing like a mold, and sealing
> it off. Does stuff grow in drains?
>
> Any thoughts on what it might be, and how to prevent it? I rarely put oils
> down the drain, and when I do they are cold and mixed with Dawn to emulsify
> it. There isn't enough canopy for leaves or squirrels to get in the roof
> vent.
>
> thanks,
> jim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler at gmail.com
>
>
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From markmiller at threeboysfarm.com  Wed Dec  9 01:18:31 2020
From: markmiller at threeboysfarm.com (Mark Miller)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2020 00:18:31 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Soil stack venting issue (Jim Franklin)
In-Reply-To: <mailman.131.1607347943.2739.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.131.1607347943.2739.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <234bc935-3652-92e2-7996-1da7e47aaac1@threeboysfarm.com>

Something to try is to clean it out from up on top.? Use a long length 
of chain, tie something really big (relative to the size of the pipe) to 
one end (to keep from losing it in the stack) and drop the other end 
into the vent from up on the roof.? Fish it up and down and see what 
crap you can dislodge/scrape off and flush out.? Having water flowing 
from above (hot is better) would be a plus: you say the kitchen sink is 
the top of the stack so hot flowing into that sink should do it.

Good luck and happy fishing!

Regards,

Mark Miller   707-490-5834
markmiller at threeboysfarm.com


> Subject: [Shop-talk] Soil stack venting issue
> Message-ID: <DFE739C8-B520-4FD2-9645-EDFA4E2636BE at groupwbench.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset=us-ascii
>
> Maybe some of you have an innovative solution...
>
> My house has a single cast iron soil stack that does both drain and vent. When I flush the toilet, it sucks air from the tub drain. The toilet and tub enter the stack separately, but at the same height, using an oddly specific T with a 4" toilet and a 2" tub inlet about 45 degrees apart. The tub does not have its own vent. 2 years ago I had a plumber snake the vent from the roof, he found "stuff", and it was fixed. Last week it started again.
>
> My kitchen sink T's into the stack at knee height, so it's the highest item on the stack. My thought is, because it's a straight T, not a sanitary T, stuff from the sink is solidifying inside the T when the flow hits the back of the T, and eventually forming a cap of "stuff" just above the T entry, sealing off any venting. I can't tell if the sink is also being used as the toilet's vent because there are too many walls in the way to hear what's happening.
>
> My other thought is that the "stuff" is growing like a mold, and sealing it off. Does stuff grow in drains?
>
> Any thoughts on what it might be, and how to prevent it? I rarely put oils down the drain, and when I do they are cold and mixed with Dawn to emulsify it. There isn't enough canopy for leaves or squirrels to get in the roof vent.
>
> thanks,
> jim
>
>

From tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com  Sat Dec 12 10:14:03 2020
From: tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com (Tim .)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2020 17:14:03 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] Double sided tape with balls
Message-ID: <DS7PR19MB4629CB3DB9C22AC3B6F6B97EB4C90@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>

Hey all,

We live in a 1903 craftsman in WI that either has original windows or total crap bucket replacements. Winter has finally arrived and I need to plastic all the windows again. Last winter we adopted a couple Maine Coons that destroyed the plastic I put up. In order to stop that, I bought some of these (other plexiglass options were stupid expensive with price gouging asshats taking advantage of the pandemic).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QTGHCFY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I do not want to drill into the original and unpainted wood to hang these with hooks.

Looking for double sided tape options that someone may know about that can handle the weight of this plastic.

thanks
tim
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From jamesf at groupwbench.org  Sat Dec 12 10:21:53 2020
From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2020 12:21:53 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Double sided tape with balls
In-Reply-To: <DS7PR19MB4629CB3DB9C22AC3B6F6B97EB4C90@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DS7PR19MB4629CB3DB9C22AC3B6F6B97EB4C90@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <93657D56-94C4-45EC-9F97-CDED6590C005@groupwbench.org>



> On Dec 12, 2020, at 12:14 PM, Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> Looking for double sided tape options that someone may know about that can handle the weight of this plastic. 

I would start with 3m and would be very surprised if they didn't have a product. However, it's likely that any product string enough to keep the plexi on for 6 months might also pull off some wood itself. 

Can you add any kind of ledge under the window trim to support the plexi? 

How about just covering the windows with quilts since the sun won't be up until April anyway? :-)

jim
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From patintexas at icloud.com  Sat Dec 12 10:23:03 2020
From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2020 11:23:03 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Double sided tape with balls
In-Reply-To: <DS7PR19MB4629CB3DB9C22AC3B6F6B97EB4C90@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DS7PR19MB4629CB3DB9C22AC3B6F6B97EB4C90@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <20F2876F-DA58-4090-9099-9976444CFC2E@icloud.com>

Tim,

If any tape will hold it, 3m VHB tape will. I?ve used it to put 10?x12? heavy vinyl banners up with tape only on the top. No problems at all. 

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne 
We support Habitat for Humanity


On Dec 12, 2020, at 11:15 AM, Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com> wrote:

?
Hey all, 

We live in a 1903 craftsman in WI that either has original windows or total crap bucket replacements. Winter has finally arrived and I need to plastic all the windows again. Last winter we adopted a couple Maine Coons that destroyed the plastic I put up. In order to stop that, I bought some of these (other plexiglass options were stupid expensive with price gouging asshats taking advantage of the pandemic). 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QTGHCFY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I do not want to drill into the original and unpainted wood to hang these with hooks. 

Looking for double sided tape options that someone may know about that can handle the weight of this plastic. 

thanks
tim 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

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From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Sat Dec 12 10:41:49 2020
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2020 12:41:49 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Double sided tape with balls
In-Reply-To: <DS7PR19MB4629CB3DB9C22AC3B6F6B97EB4C90@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DS7PR19MB4629CB3DB9C22AC3B6F6B97EB4C90@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <669ec02d-f287-9d85-98b9-3506aa9a90b9@mebtel.net>

As has been mentioned, anything with a strong bond may cause damage when 
you try to remove the plastic. How about velcro? There are various 
grades of strength of both the bond & the velcro itself. The plastic 
might then be re-usable (if you can keep the cats away from it).

-- 
Eric Russell
Mebane, NC


On 12/12/2020 12:14 PM, Tim . wrote:
> Looking for double sided tape options that someone may know about that 
> can handle the weight of this plastic. 

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From jdinnis at gmail.com  Sat Dec 12 12:31:28 2020
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2020 13:31:28 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Double sided tape with balls
In-Reply-To: <DS7PR19MB4629CB3DB9C22AC3B6F6B97EB4C90@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DS7PR19MB4629CB3DB9C22AC3B6F6B97EB4C90@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CANuE7YCzz6n5Uqdq6fMAjYyJ15WV-fMhrZk_ifVifyDzx+f3Kg@mail.gmail.com>

A recent trip to Home Despot for a similar search led me to discover there
are a lot of good options out there.  There were about 6 different brands,
and each had several options for strength.  I chose a 35lb rated tape to
hold a switch pod to the dash of my truck.  SO far it has worked great.
The variety I ended up using was 3M brand, but I have also heard good
things about the similar product form Gorilla brand.

On Sat, Dec 12, 2020 at 11:15 AM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>
wrote:

> Hey all,
>
> We live in a 1903 craftsman in WI that either has original windows or
> total crap bucket replacements. Winter has finally arrived and I need to
> plastic all the windows again. Last winter we adopted a couple Maine Coons
> that destroyed the plastic I put up. In order to stop that, I bought some
> of these (other plexiglass options were stupid expensive with price gouging
> asshats taking advantage of the pandemic).
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QTGHCFY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>
> I do not want to drill into the original and unpainted wood to hang these
> with hooks.
>
> Looking for double sided tape options that someone may know about that can
> handle the weight of this plastic.
>
> thanks
> tim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================
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From 1789alpine at gmail.com  Sat Dec 12 13:05:39 2020
From: 1789alpine at gmail.com (Jim Stone)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2020 15:05:39 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Double sided tape with balls
In-Reply-To: <CANuE7YCzz6n5Uqdq6fMAjYyJ15WV-fMhrZk_ifVifyDzx+f3Kg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <DS7PR19MB4629CB3DB9C22AC3B6F6B97EB4C90@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANuE7YCzz6n5Uqdq6fMAjYyJ15WV-fMhrZk_ifVifyDzx+f3Kg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5640B77E-CFA3-4EA2-8E85-87B43AED33AB@gmail.com>

I keep seeing ads for various brands of Nano tape that might be perfect for your application.  There are multiple brands and varieties of tape available: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=alien+tape&crid=P8XNUBSDYBON&sprefix=alien%2Caps%2C176&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-a-p_4_5 <https://www.amazon.com/s?k=alien+tape&crid=P8XNUBSDYBON&sprefix=alien,aps,176&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-a-p_4_5>

But, I have absolutely no experience with it.  It is just one of those things I have filed away in the back of my brain in case I ever need it and it occurs to me that it might work for your application. 

Jim

> On Sat, Dec 12, 2020 at 11:15 AM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com <mailto:tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com>> wrote:
> Hey all, 
> 
> We live in a 1903 craftsman in WI that either has original windows or total crap bucket replacements. Winter has finally arrived and I need to plastic all the windows again. Last winter we adopted a couple Maine Coons that destroyed the plastic I put up. In order to stop that, I bought some of these (other plexiglass options were stupid expensive with price gouging asshats taking advantage of the pandemic). 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QTGHCFY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 <https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QTGHCFY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1>
> 
> I do not want to drill into the original and unpainted wood to hang these with hooks. 
> 
> Looking for double sided tape options that someone may know about that can handle the weight of this plastic. 
> 
> thanks
> tim 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk <http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com>
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> =================================
> = Never offend people with style when you   =
> = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
> =================================
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
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> 

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From jamesf at groupwbench.org  Sat Dec 12 15:03:12 2020
From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2020 17:03:12 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Soil stack venting issue
In-Reply-To: <b04a747b-3a17-ba48-1585-81a778189166@sackheads.org>
References: <DFE739C8-B520-4FD2-9645-EDFA4E2636BE@groupwbench.org>
 <b04a747b-3a17-ba48-1585-81a778189166@sackheads.org>
Message-ID: <CC411ECA-10CB-48D6-A975-AF762B285E91@groupwbench.org>

I would have bet a case of beer the boiling water wouldn't work, because it would be too cool before it reached the grease attached to a giant cast iron tee, and also it wouldn't get splashed onto enough grease to melt it. However, a few gallons of hot sink water followed by a gallon of boiling water, all while plunging furiously, did absolutely nothing at first, but then a few hours later there was no gurgling from the tub and it's been silent for a few days. 

I'll get some of that bacteria/enzyme stuff as preventative maintenance. 

The scope sounds like a great idea but the only access I have is from the roof and it's about 12 feet from vent to to sink entry point. If there's a dry day I'll drop a rock on a string down there and see what happens. 

Thanks all!

jim

> On Dec 7, 2020, at 8:53 AM, Jimmie Mayfield <mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org> wrote:
> 
> If it's grease build-up, you might try periodically pouring a gallon or two of boiling water down the kitchen sink.
> 
> You might consider buying one of those cheap USB endoscopes from Amazon or Ebay.  I bought one for about $15 on Prime Day a couple years ago.  The camera quality is pretty bad but they're pretty long...mine is about 15 feet.  You could snake it down your kitchen drain clean-out and see for yourself what's going on inside your pipes.
> 
> 
> On 12/7/20 08:25, Jim Franklin wrote:
>> Maybe some of you have an innovative solution...
>> 
>> My house has a single cast iron soil stack that does both drain and vent. When I flush the toilet, it sucks air from the tub drain. The toilet and tub enter the stack separately, but at the same height, using an oddly specific T with a 4" toilet and a 2" tub inlet about 45 degrees apart. The tub does not have its own vent. 2 years ago I had a plumber snake the vent from the roof, he found "stuff", and it was fixed. Last week it started again.
>> 
>> My kitchen sink T's into the stack at knee height, so it's the highest item on the stack. My thought is, because it's a straight T, not a sanitary T, stuff from the sink is solidifying inside the T when the flow hits the back of the T, and eventually forming a cap of "stuff" just above the T entry, sealing off any venting. I can't tell if the sink is also being used as the toilet's vent because there are too many walls in the way to hear what's happening.
>> 
>> My other thought is that the "stuff" is growing like a mold, and sealing it off. Does stuff grow in drains?
>> 
>> Any thoughts on what it might be, and how to prevent it? I rarely put oils down the drain, and when I do they are cold and mixed with Dawn to emulsify it. There isn't enough canopy for leaves or squirrels to get in the roof vent.
>> 
>> thanks,
>> jim
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org>
>> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk <http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org>
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From mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org  Sat Dec 12 19:39:30 2020
From: mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org (Jimmie Mayfield)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2020 21:39:30 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Soil stack venting issue
In-Reply-To: <CC411ECA-10CB-48D6-A975-AF762B285E91@groupwbench.org>
References: <DFE739C8-B520-4FD2-9645-EDFA4E2636BE@groupwbench.org>
 <b04a747b-3a17-ba48-1585-81a778189166@sackheads.org>
 <CC411ECA-10CB-48D6-A975-AF762B285E91@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <fa83817e-e945-99c6-5d90-d6523046b4a9@sackheads.org>

Glad it seemed to work for you. Growing up, mom would pour a couple pots 
of boiling water down the kitchen drain every few weeks.? I can't say it 
was 100% effective since I remember several times having to help dad 
disassemble the plumbing to clean out the pipes on the driveway.? But I 
guess when done regularly it might help prevent large grease deposits 
from forming near the sink.


On 12/12/20 5:03 PM, Jim Franklin wrote:
> I would have bet a case of beer the boiling water wouldn't work, 
> because it would be too cool before it reached the grease attached to 
> a giant cast iron tee, and also it wouldn't get splashed onto enough 
> grease to melt it. However, a few gallons of hot sink water followed 
> by a gallon of boiling water, all while plunging furiously, did 
> absolutely nothing at first, but then a few hours later there was no 
> gurgling from the tub and it's been silent for a few days.
>
> I'll get some of that bacteria/enzyme stuff as preventative maintenance.
>
> The scope sounds like a great idea but the only access I have is from 
> the roof and it's about 12 feet from vent to to sink entry point. If 
> there's a dry day I'll drop a rock on a string down there and see what 
> happens.
>
> Thanks all!
>
> jim
>
>> On Dec 7, 2020, at 8:53 AM, Jimmie Mayfield 
>> <mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org 
>> <mailto:mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org>> wrote:
>>
>> If it's grease build-up, you might try periodically pouring a gallon 
>> or two of boiling water down the kitchen sink.
>>
>> You might consider buying one of those cheap USB endoscopes from 
>> Amazon or Ebay.? I bought one for about $15 on Prime Day a couple 
>> years ago.? The camera quality is pretty bad but they're pretty 
>> long...mine is about 15 feet.? You could snake it down your kitchen 
>> drain clean-out and see for yourself what's going on inside your pipes.
>>
>>
>> On 12/7/20 08:25, Jim Franklin wrote:
>>> Maybe some of you have an innovative solution...
>>>
>>> My house has a single cast iron soil stack that does both drain and 
>>> vent. When I flush the toilet, it sucks air from the tub drain. The 
>>> toilet and tub enter the stack separately, but at the same height, 
>>> using an oddly specific T with a 4" toilet and a 2" tub inlet about 
>>> 45 degrees apart. The tub does not have its own vent. 2 years ago I 
>>> had a plumber snake the vent from the roof, he found "stuff", and it 
>>> was fixed. Last week it started again.
>>>
>>> My kitchen sink T's into the stack at knee height, so it's the 
>>> highest item on the stack. My thought is, because it's a straight T, 
>>> not a sanitary T, stuff from the sink is solidifying inside the T 
>>> when the flow hits the back of the T, and eventually forming a cap 
>>> of "stuff" just above the T entry, sealing off any venting. I can't 
>>> tell if the sink is also being used as the toilet's vent because 
>>> there are too many walls in the way to hear what's happening.
>>>
>>> My other thought is that the "stuff" is growing like a mold, and 
>>> sealing it off. Does stuff grow in drains?
>>>
>>> Any thoughts on what it might be, and how to prevent it? I rarely 
>>> put oils down the drain, and when I do they are cold and mixed with 
>>> Dawn to emulsify it. There isn't enough canopy for leaves or 
>>> squirrels to get in the roof vent.
>>>
>>> thanks,
>>> jim
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation ?$12.96
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk 
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org 
>>> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org>
>>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
>> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation ?$12.96
>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk 
>> <http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk>http://autox.team.net/archive 
>> <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org 
>> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org>
>

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From nick at landform.co.uk  Thu Dec 17 10:24:13 2020
From: nick at landform.co.uk (nick brearley)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2020 17:24:13 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] Question about a belt tensioner
Message-ID: <f4407507-699e-d8cf-e28c-3bed9422b41e@landform.co.uk>

Hello,

I'm looking at a Kent Moore ST-1293 belt tensioner for use on a ribbed 
belt on a Cummins 4BT. It's Cummins recommended tool and I wondered if 
anyone had experience/opinions about it. Also whether it's use could be 
extended to timing belts.

Thanks,

Nick Brearley



From eric at megageek.com  Thu Dec 17 10:51:48 2020
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2020 12:51:48 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tire studs
Message-ID: <OF85A47AB2.EC6FA9FD-ON85258641.006166BD-85258641.0062209B@mail.megageek.com>

OK, I'm looking to put studs on my zero turn tractor for when I'm plowing 
snow.  Is there any 'method' to putting them on?  How many per tire? 
Patterns?  The tires are a knobby design and work pretty good in the snow 
already, but once the snow packs a little to ice, they can't get any bite. 
 So I figured some studs would be perfect.

Any ideas?

Thanks.


"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?
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From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Thu Dec 17 11:16:28 2020
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2020 13:16:28 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tire studs
In-Reply-To: <OF85A47AB2.EC6FA9FD-ON85258641.006166BD-85258641.0062209B@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF85A47AB2.EC6FA9FD-ON85258641.006166BD-85258641.0062209B@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <474a4c9d-74f7-ad09-90a9-55418970b0a7@mebtel.net>

A gazillion years ago (before the invention of dirt) I wanted to put 
studded snow tires on my daily driver MGA. (I lived in Massachusetts 
then.) Tire stores were not allowed to sell studded snow tires. But they 
could sell snow tires and a package of studs for the DIY'er to install. 
The tires had a series of holes molded into the tread. The package of 
studs - they looked like solid rivets - came with an installation tool 
sort of like a screwdriver handle. Put the stud into the end of the 
tool, press the head of the stud into the holes molded into the tread 
and push until they were seated. It was a lot of work but I was young 
and hearty. As I recall, the studs had to be installed before the tires 
were driven on - I assume that otherwise the holes might get filled with 
dirt (a new invention) preventing the studs from being fully seated.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

On 12/17/2020 12:51 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote:
> OK, I'm looking to put studs on my zero turn tractor for when I'm 
> plowing snow. ?Is there any 'method' to putting them on? ?How many per 
> tire? ?Patterns? ?The tires are a knobby design and work pretty good 
> in the snow already, but once the snow packs a little to ice, they 
> can't get any bite. ?So I figured some studs would be perfect.

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From pethier7 at gmail.com  Thu Dec 17 11:23:31 2020
From: pethier7 at gmail.com (Phil Ethier)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2020 12:23:31 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tire studs
In-Reply-To: <474a4c9d-74f7-ad09-90a9-55418970b0a7@mebtel.net>
References: <474a4c9d-74f7-ad09-90a9-55418970b0a7@mebtel.net>
Message-ID: <6B406607-A3BC-4158-A878-255638581F89@gmail.com>

Buy chains

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 17, 2020, at 12:17 PM, Eric Russell <ejrussell at mebtel.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> A gazillion years ago (before the invention of dirt) I wanted to put studded snow tires on my daily driver MGA. (I lived in Massachusetts then.) Tire stores were not allowed to sell studded snow tires. But they could sell snow tires and a package of studs for the DIY'er to install. The tires had a series of holes molded into the tread. The package of studs - they looked like solid rivets - came with an installation tool sort of like a screwdriver handle. Put the stud into the end of the tool, press the head of the stud into the holes molded into the tread and push until they were seated. It was a lot of work but I was young and hearty. As I recall, the studs had to be installed before the tires were driven on - I assume that otherwise the holes might get filled with dirt (a new invention) preventing the studs from being fully seated. 
> 
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC 
> 
> On 12/17/2020 12:51 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote:
>> OK, I'm looking to put studs on my zero turn tractor for when I'm plowing snow.  Is there any 'method' to putting them on?  How many per tire?  Patterns?  The tires are a knobby design and work pretty good in the snow already, but once the snow packs a little to ice, they can't get any bite.  So I figured some studs would be perfect. 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pethier7 at gmail.com
> 
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From eric at megageek.com  Thu Dec 17 11:31:36 2020
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2020 13:31:36 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tire studs
In-Reply-To: <6B406607-A3BC-4158-A878-255638581F89@gmail.com>
References: <474a4c9d-74f7-ad09-90a9-55418970b0a7@mebtel.net>
 <6B406607-A3BC-4158-A878-255638581F89@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <OF7FDE4E35.4CFD3239-ON85258641.0065926C-85258641.0065C59D@mail.megageek.com>

Phil writes...

>Buy chains

Why would chains be better?  For the past 20 some years, I've used chains 
on that tractor.  They are loud, they bounce the tractor everywhere, they 
break and come off all the time.

I want to try studs and I can't find any real negatives for them.  Why 
would chains be better?

Thanks.


"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?
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From tjcora at icloud.com  Thu Dec 17 11:34:46 2020
From: tjcora at icloud.com (Tom Coradeschi)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2020 13:34:46 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tire studs
In-Reply-To: <OF85A47AB2.EC6FA9FD-ON85258641.006166BD-85258641.0062209B@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF85A47AB2.EC6FA9FD-ON85258641.006166BD-85258641.0062209B@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <8CB85EA6-2AF9-4253-82AF-FA0454D8D6A3@icloud.com>

Ah, studs. Back In The Day (late 70?s/early 80?s), we studded a lot of snow tires. Had a nifty pneumatic tool which made it a pretty straightforward job.

That being said, unless the tires are ?stud-ready?, in that they have holes for you to insert the studs into, not sure how you?d make that happen.

Maybe a set of tire chains?

?
Tom Coradeschi
tjcora at icloud.com


> On 17 Dec 2020, at 12:51 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote:
> 
> OK, I'm looking to put studs on my zero turn tractor for when I'm plowing snow.  Is there any 'method' to putting them on?  How many per tire?  Patterns?  The tires are a knobby design and work pretty good in the snow already, but once the snow packs a little to ice, they can't get any bite.  So I figured some studs would be perfect. 
> 
> Any ideas? 
> 
> Thanks. 
> 
> 
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson 
> -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tjcora at icloud.com
> 


From tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com  Thu Dec 17 16:33:18 2020
From: tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com (Tim .)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2020 23:33:18 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] Anyone ever use these?
Message-ID: <DS7PR19MB4629352861700A4495D44BD0B4C40@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>

My soldering skills are ok on bigger gauge wires. However, when trying to fix a computer power cord, of the three wires is thinner gauge than I've ever seen....looks to be no more than 10 strands of copper. My first try failed so I wonder if I should use something like this....

https://www.google.com/search?q=easy+solder+wire+connectors&rlz=1C1KDEC_enUS921US921&oq=eas&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j35i39i457j0i67l4j69i65l2.5450j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_7ejbX6v6M9GF9PwPvPqG0As8

thoughts?
thanks
tim
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From arvidj999 at gmail.com  Thu Dec 17 17:15:32 2020
From: arvidj999 at gmail.com (Arvid)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2020 18:15:32 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Anyone ever use these?
In-Reply-To: <DS7PR19MB4629352861700A4495D44BD0B4C40@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DS7PR19MB4629352861700A4495D44BD0B4C40@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <0e977b82-3ae3-d035-01a2-51c1e8d2c9ed@gmail.com>

I used them multiple time to wire my trailer a few weeks ago.


They worked much better than I thought they would but I was using them on 18 and 16 gauge stranded wire. I used a heat gun to melt the solder and shrink the tubing. After that I wiped several layers of "liquid electrical tape" and then silicone tape over them to ensure they would stay dry and to help remove the physical load of the wire in the splice. The "bundle" was then firmly attached to the trailer frame to avoid any movement.


"Computer power cord" is a little vague so I'm not sure how it would work out. My concerns would be related to the durability of the connection after it has been completed, especially if there will be any flex or movement of the wires after the connection is made.


Arvid



On 12/17/20 5:33 PM, Tim . wrote:
> My soldering skills are ok on bigger gauge wires. However, when trying to fix a computer power cord, of the three wires is thinner gauge than I've ever seen....looks to be no more than 10 strands of copper. My first try failed so I wonder if I should use something like this....
>
> https://www.google.com/search?q=easy+solder+wire+connectors&rlz=1C1KDEC_enUS921US921&oq=eas&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j35i39i457j0i67l4j69i65l2.5450j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_7ejbX6v6M9GF9PwPvPqG0As8
>
> thoughts?
> thanks
> tim
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/arvidj999 at gmail.com
>
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From darmstrong at nexicom.net  Thu Dec 17 17:59:25 2020
From: darmstrong at nexicom.net (Doug Armstrong)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2020 19:59:25 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tire studs
In-Reply-To: <8CB85EA6-2AF9-4253-82AF-FA0454D8D6A3@icloud.com>
References: <OF85A47AB2.EC6FA9FD-ON85258641.006166BD-85258641.0062209B@mail.megageek.com>
 <8CB85EA6-2AF9-4253-82AF-FA0454D8D6A3@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <004401d6d4d9$0861fec0$1925fc40$@nexicom.net>

I have an old John Deere lawn tractor that had turf tires on the rear.  Swapped them for Carlisle All Trail ATV Tires that I had loaded with winter windshield washer fluid.

They work well on flat asphalt.  I occasionally have problems on slopes when icy.  

Doug Armstrong  


-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Tom Coradeschi
Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2020 1:35 PM
To: shop-talk <Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire studs

Ah, studs. Back In The Day (late 70 s/early 80 s), we studded a lot of snow tires. Had a nifty pneumatic tool which made it a pretty straightforward job.

That being said, unless the tires are  stud-ready , in that they have holes for you to insert the studs into, not sure how you d make that happen.

Maybe a set of tire chains?

 
Tom Coradeschi
tjcora at icloud.com


> On 17 Dec 2020, at 12:51 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote:
> 
> OK, I'm looking to put studs on my zero turn tractor for when I'm plowing snow.  Is there any 'method' to putting them on?  How many per tire?  Patterns?  The tires are a knobby design and work pretty good in the snow already, but once the snow packs a little to ice, they can't get any bite.  So I figured some studs would be perfect. 
> 
> Any ideas? 
> 
> Thanks. 
> 
> 
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a 
> rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your 
> territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson -Who is John 
> Galt?_______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  
> $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tjcora at icloud.com
> 

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/darmstrong at nexicom.net



-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com


From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Thu Dec 17 18:34:20 2020
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2020 20:34:20 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Anyone ever use these?
In-Reply-To: <DS7PR19MB4629352861700A4495D44BD0B4C40@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DS7PR19MB4629352861700A4495D44BD0B4C40@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <ab34bc2d-02b4-caa9-13e1-655f104b8489@mebtel.net>

Are you sure they are actually copper?

-- 
Eric Russell
Mebane, NC


On 12/17/2020 6:33 PM, Tim . wrote:
> My soldering skills are ok on bigger gauge wires. However, when trying 
> to fix a computer power cord, of the three wires is thinner gauge than 
> I've ever seen....looks to be no more than 10 strands of copper. My 
> first try failed so I wonder if I should use something like this....

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From tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com  Thu Dec 17 19:07:15 2020
From: tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com (Tim .)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2020 02:07:15 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] Anyone ever use these?
In-Reply-To: <ab34bc2d-02b4-caa9-13e1-655f104b8489@mebtel.net>
References: <DS7PR19MB4629352861700A4495D44BD0B4C40@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>,
 <ab34bc2d-02b4-caa9-13e1-655f104b8489@mebtel.net>
Message-ID: <DS7PR19MB4629AB7FF1B8926D83DCDE20B4C30@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>

"Are you sure they are actually copper?"

Do you mean the wires I am trying to solder? Um...yea...pretty sure they are copper.

Does HP make their power cables from something other than copper?


________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Eric Russell <ejrussell at mebtel.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2020 7:34 PM
To: shop-talk at autox.team.net <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Anyone ever use these?


Are you sure they are actually copper?

--
Eric Russell
Mebane, NC


On 12/17/2020 6:33 PM, Tim . wrote:
My soldering skills are ok on bigger gauge wires. However, when trying to fix a computer power cord, of the three wires is thinner gauge than I've ever seen....looks to be no more than 10 strands of copper. My first try failed so I wonder if I should use something like this....

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From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Thu Dec 17 19:25:36 2020
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2020 21:25:36 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Anyone ever use these?
In-Reply-To: <DS7PR19MB4629AB7FF1B8926D83DCDE20B4C30@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DS7PR19MB4629352861700A4495D44BD0B4C40@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <ab34bc2d-02b4-caa9-13e1-655f104b8489@mebtel.net>
 <DS7PR19MB4629AB7FF1B8926D83DCDE20B4C30@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <746c0e18-a646-fd92-4e63-f5e809527312@mebtel.net>

On 12/17/2020 9:07 PM, Tim . wrote:

> "Are you sure they are actually copper?"
>
> Do you mean the wires I am trying to solder? Um...yea...pretty sure 
> they are copper.
>
> Does HP make their power cables from something other than copper?


Of course I have no idea what HP might use. But I have dealt with wires 
that ain't what they appear. If you scrape the wires with a knife blade 
do they still look like copper?

-- 
Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

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From tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com  Thu Dec 17 19:30:17 2020
From: tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com (Tim .)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2020 02:30:17 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] Anyone ever use these?
In-Reply-To: <746c0e18-a646-fd92-4e63-f5e809527312@mebtel.net>
References: <DS7PR19MB4629352861700A4495D44BD0B4C40@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <ab34bc2d-02b4-caa9-13e1-655f104b8489@mebtel.net>
 <DS7PR19MB4629AB7FF1B8926D83DCDE20B4C30@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>,
 <746c0e18-a646-fd92-4e63-f5e809527312@mebtel.net>
Message-ID: <DS7PR19MB46296B822E04DCC5E040FA67B4C30@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>

hmmm...well, I can try that but they are so thin I'd guess that there won't be much to scrape. I was able to strip the blue wires with my finger nail.......

________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Eric Russell <ejrussell at mebtel.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2020 8:25 PM
To: shop-talk at autox.team.net <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Anyone ever use these?


On 12/17/2020 9:07 PM, Tim . wrote:

"Are you sure they are actually copper?"

Do you mean the wires I am trying to solder? Um...yea...pretty sure they are copper.

Does HP make their power cables from something other than copper?


Of course I have no idea what HP might use. But I have dealt with wires that ain't what they appear. If you scrape the wires with a knife blade do they still look like copper?

--
Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
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From arvidj999 at gmail.com  Thu Dec 17 19:39:17 2020
From: arvidj999 at gmail.com (Arvid)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2020 20:39:17 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tire studs
In-Reply-To: <OF7FDE4E35.4CFD3239-ON85258641.0065926C-85258641.0065C59D@mail.megageek.com>
References: <474a4c9d-74f7-ad09-90a9-55418970b0a7@mebtel.net>
 <6B406607-A3BC-4158-A878-255638581F89@gmail.com>
 <OF7FDE4E35.4CFD3239-ON85258641.0065926C-85258641.0065C59D@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <cb2f6a89-66dc-62f5-6865-2668f93fa552@gmail.com>

I've had the opposite experience.

When I bought my JD X595 17 years ago I bought an additional set of lug type tires mounted on wheels and a set of chains. Deflated the tires, mounted the chains as tight as I could, inflated the tires. Chains were really snug on the tires. Used safety wire to ensure the loose ends were no longer loose ends. Take the wheels off every spring, on every fall. Significantly easier than taking the chains on and off the tires. Never had an issue. I am assuming the tires are about the same size as are on your zero-turn ... 26 x 12-12.

Guess I was just lucky.

Arvid

On 12/17/20 12:31 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote:
> Phil writes...
>
> >Buy chains
>
> Why would chains be better? ?For the past 20 some years, I've used chains on that tractor. ?They are loud, they bounce the tractor everywhere, they break and come off all the time.
>
> I want to try studs and I can't find any real negatives for them. ?Why would chains be better?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt?
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/arvidj999 at gmail.com
>
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From fishplate at gmail.com  Fri Dec 18 04:50:17 2020
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2020 06:50:17 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Anyone ever use these?
In-Reply-To: <DS7PR19MB4629352861700A4495D44BD0B4C40@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DS7PR19MB4629352861700A4495D44BD0B4C40@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CMzpufLEjMwpc6mykzc4fu_oU4PoNfUeSMP0ZcNTe93QA@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, Dec 17, 2020 at 6:34 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com> wrote:
>
> My soldering skills are ok on bigger gauge wires. However, when trying to fix a computer power cord, of the three wires is thinner gauge than I've ever seen....looks to be no more than 10 strands of copper.

Can you post a picture of the cord in question?  There may be other
solutions....

From fishplate at gmail.com  Fri Dec 18 05:03:57 2020
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2020 07:03:57 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tire studs
In-Reply-To: <OF85A47AB2.EC6FA9FD-ON85258641.006166BD-85258641.0062209B@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF85A47AB2.EC6FA9FD-ON85258641.006166BD-85258641.0062209B@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CN63iGVncQ1e7SuKo+rQw+qGXbduixq6KcmSdgK957S7Q@mail.gmail.com>

Forgive me for what I'm about to say, as I'm a Florida boy and have
only ever seen snow every few years, and just a couple of inches at
that.  Never had to shovel, never had to plow...never even saw a plow
until I was over 40 years old...

Reading Arvid's suggestion, could one make a set of solid steel wheels
with nubs welded on them?  It would be a rough ride, but it might work
and be cheap.

Can you dismount a tire and drive sheet metal screws through from
inside to outside?  THen use a tube and a heavy rubber belt to protect
the tube from the screw heads...  Maybe flat head screws would go in
enough to not need protection.

How about moving down south, where these things just don't exist?

When I was much younger, I worked with a guy from Colorado.  He was
the one that introduced me to the concept of studded tires.  He told
me that the studs take a set after a season of driving, and their
favorite thing was to go out on an evening after the last snowfall to
a dark road, and swap the rear tires from side to side.  Then, when
you did a burnout, the studs would catch and be ejected from the
tires, producing a brilliant arc of glowing sparks that could be seen
for miles across the mountains.  Sounds like great fun to me.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

On Thu, Dec 17, 2020 at 12:52 PM <eric at megageek.com> wrote:
>
> OK, I'm looking to put studs on my zero turn tractor for when I'm plowing snow.  Is there any 'method' to putting them on?  How many per tire?  Patterns?  The tires are a knobby design and work pretty good in the snow already, but once the snow packs a little to ice, they can't get any bite.  So I figured some studs would be perfect.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate at gmail.com
>

From patintexas at icloud.com  Fri Dec 18 06:49:46 2020
From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2020 07:49:46 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Anyone ever use these?
In-Reply-To: <CAO8Q7CMzpufLEjMwpc6mykzc4fu_oU4PoNfUeSMP0ZcNTe93QA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAO8Q7CMzpufLEjMwpc6mykzc4fu_oU4PoNfUeSMP0ZcNTe93QA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BEAE3853-9CED-4BE9-85B2-2E92AED4CB3C@icloud.com>

I?ve had problems soldering newer terminals that are intended for lead-free solder. Older lead solder doesn?t stick to some of them. Also, are you using electrical solder?

I also remember trying to solder some very flexible cord decades ago that looked like copper but it wasn?t. It was actually a thin ribbon of metal wrapped around some kind of string. Really odd stuff. 

Pat Horne 
We support Habitat for Humanity


On Dec 18, 2020, at 5:51 AM, Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at gmail.com> wrote:

?On Thu, Dec 17, 2020 at 6:34 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com> wrote:
> 
> My soldering skills are ok on bigger gauge wires. However, when trying to fix a computer power cord, of the three wires is thinner gauge than I've ever seen....looks to be no more than 10 strands of copper.

Can you post a picture of the cord in question?  There may be other
solutions....
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com


From jblair1948 at cox.net  Fri Dec 18 07:21:02 2020
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2020 09:21:02 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Anyone ever use these?
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20201218091931.04e21070@cox.net>

At 06:33 PM 12/17/2020, you wrote:

 >My soldering skills are ok on bigger gauge wires. However, when 
trying to fix a
 >computer power cord, of the three wires is thinner gauge than I've ever
 >seen....looks to be no more than 10 strands of copper. My first try 
failed so I
 >wonder if I should use something like this....

 ><https://www.google.com/search?q=easy+solder+wire+connectors&rlz=1C1KDEC_enUS921US921&oq=eas&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j35i39i457j0i67l4j69i65l2.5450j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_7ejbX6v6M9GF9PwPvPqG0As8>https://www.google.com/search?q=easy+solder+wire+connectors&rlz=1C1KDEC_enUS921US921&oq=eas&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j35i39i457j0i67l4j69i65l2.5450j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_7ejbX6v6M9GF9PwPvPqG0As8

Tim,

I've used them on a buddy truck.  He was trying to add in a switch and an
additional aux. power outlet, ie. cigarette lighter.  Worked 
well.  At least my buddy
hasn't been back for me to fix it in 2 yrs.

I assume that if it is designed to connect 2 18gauge wires, that it 
can handle the
current that an 18gauge wire can handle.  You can get kits for many 
different sizes
of wire.  They are color coded for the wire size, and therefore, I 
assume, it's
current carrying capacity.  I don't see anything that actually gives 
a current rating
for them.

John



John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/morgan
Bricklin:     www.bricklin.org

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If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
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From mbarre at juno.com  Sat Dec 19 20:46:23 2020
From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2020 03:46:23 GMT
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tire studs
Message-ID: <20201219.224623.26804.0@webmail03.vgs.untd.com>

I had studded tires for a while when I lived in AK but I bought them new, ready to go with the studs installed.  If you can&rsquo;t find some like that for your application, chains might be an easier solution or even some of the fabric solutions.  Good luck!

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Eric Russell <ejrussell at mebtel.net>
To: shop-talk at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire studs
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2020 13:16:28 -0500


A gazillion years ago (before the invention of dirt) I wanted to put studded snow tires on my daily driver MGA. (I lived in Massachusetts then.) Tire stores were not allowed to sell studded snow tires. But they could sell snow tires and a package of studs for the DIY'er to install. The tires had a series of holes molded into the tread. The package of studs - they looked like solid rivets - came with an installation tool sort of like a screwdriver handle. Put the stud into the end of the tool, press the head of the stud into the holes molded into the tread and push until they were seated. It was a lot of work but I was young and hearty. As I recall, the studs had to be installed before the tires were driven on - I assume that otherwise the holes might get filled with dirt (a new invention) preventing the studs from being fully seated.
Eric Russell
 Mebane, NC
 On 12/17/2020 12:51 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote:OK, I'm looking to put studs on my zero turn tractor for when I'm plowing snow. &#65533;Is there any 'method' to putting them on? &#65533;How many per tire? &#65533;Patterns? &#65533;The tires are a knobby design and work pretty good in the snow already, but once the snow packs a little to ice, they can't get any bite. &#65533;So I figured some studs would be perfect. 
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From rrochlin at comcast.net  Sun Dec 20 05:06:28 2020
From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Robert Rochlin)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2020 07:06:28 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tire studs
In-Reply-To: <20201219.224623.26804.0@webmail03.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20201219.224623.26804.0@webmail03.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <EA4503BD-4825-42A6-8478-8DBEDB00AF23@comcast.net>

	In my father?s repair shop we used to stud tires.  I had a Datson 240Z and studied both front and rear tires (then recommended) It was like perpetually riding on ice the car wandered terribly.  I spent a whole afternoon removing the studs.  I don?t believe that studded tires are allowed in Massachusetts anymore.  They did a tune on the asphalt roads, as unlike chains, people had them on full time during the winter, and many all year.
	Best,
	bob

> On Dec 19, 2020, at 10:46 PM, Matt <mbarre at juno.com> wrote:
> 
> I had studded tires for a while when I lived in AK but I bought them new, ready to go with the studs installed.  If you can?t find some like that for your application, chains might be an easier solution or even some of the fabric solutions.  Good luck!
> 
> 
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: Eric Russell <ejrussell at mebtel.net>
> To: shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire studs
> Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2020 13:16:28 -0500
> 
> 
> A gazillion years ago (before the invention of dirt) I wanted to put studded snow tires on my daily driver MGA. (I lived in Massachusetts then.) Tire stores were not allowed to sell studded snow tires. But they could sell snow tires and a package of studs for the DIY'er to install. The tires had a series of holes molded into the tread. The package of studs - they looked like solid rivets - came with an installation tool sort of like a screwdriver handle. Put the stud into the end of the tool, press the head of the stud into the holes molded into the tread and push until they were seated. It was a lot of work but I was young and hearty. As I recall, the studs had to be installed before the tires were driven on - I assume that otherwise the holes might get filled with dirt (a new invention) preventing the studs from being fully seated.
> 
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
> 
>  
> On 12/17/2020 12:51 PM, eric at megageek.com <mailto:eric at megageek.com> wrote:
> OK, I'm looking to put studs on my zero turn tractor for when I'm plowing snow. ?Is there any 'method' to putting them on? ?How many per tire? ?Patterns? ?The tires are a knobby design and work pretty good in the snow already, but once the snow packs a little to ice, they can't get any bite. ?So I figured some studs would be perfect.
>  
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rrochlin at comcast.net
> 

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From dmscheidt at gmail.com  Sun Dec 20 08:47:17 2020
From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2020 09:47:17 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tire studs
In-Reply-To: <EA4503BD-4825-42A6-8478-8DBEDB00AF23@comcast.net>
References: <20201219.224623.26804.0@webmail03.vgs.untd.com>
 <EA4503BD-4825-42A6-8478-8DBEDB00AF23@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CA+k5suonu3LNYyrwedE+-awUGrEDMbQxpgNtn3tFzKNmmUBeOw@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, Dec 20, 2020 at 6:07 AM Robert Rochlin <rrochlin at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> In my father?s repair shop we used to stud tires.  I had a Datson 240Z and studied both front and rear tires (then recommended) It was like perpetually riding on ice the car wandered terribly.  I spent a whole afternoon removing the studs.  I don?t believe that studded tires are allowed in Massachusetts anymore.  They did a tune on the asphalt roads, as unlike chains, people had them on full time during the winter, and many all year.
> Best,
> bob

Studded tires for road use are inferior to a modern studless snow tire
on all surfaces except ice.  Below 0F, they don't even work well on
ice.  They do, as you note, do a number on the pavement, and are
restricted by most states, and outright prohibited by a few.
(Illinois allows rural mail carriers to use them, but no one else.)
When I ran a shop, we put studded tires on the post offices LLVs drive
axles.  One year, we ran out of studs, and I discovered our supplier
would only sell us studs in 10,000 packs.  That's about 100 tires
worth, and we did six or eight a year.  We sent them out to be studded
after that.

For off road vehicles, the situation is a little different.  There
probably aren't good snow tires available, and studs work okay in
snow.  I use studded tires on my bicycle,  because falling hurts, and
studded bike tires have amazing grip on ice or packed snow.  They suck
the rest of the time, but there's often ice around in winter.

For a tractor, I suspect turf tires with properly installed chains are
superior to an improvised set of studs.

-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com

From tjcora at icloud.com  Sun Dec 20 11:08:42 2020
From: tjcora at icloud.com (Thomas Coradeschi)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2020 13:08:42 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tire studs
In-Reply-To: <EA4503BD-4825-42A6-8478-8DBEDB00AF23@comcast.net>
References: <20201219.224623.26804.0@webmail03.vgs.untd.com>
 <EA4503BD-4825-42A6-8478-8DBEDB00AF23@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8A58E4F1-BCF3-4513-9C0C-68741278FC38@icloud.com>

Yes, they do a number on hard pavement. Here in NJ, they can be used, but only between Nov 15th & Apr 1st (MA appears to restrict them to Nov 1st thru Apr 30th). I don?t really see (OK, hear) many folks using them these days. 

As others have noted, modern, studless winter tires are generally a much better all around solution. We?ve run Blizzaks on many different cars, for many years, and still do where there?s a fitment available. I?m currently running the Pirelli Sottozero on my Boxster and find them to be very good as well.

?
Tom Coradeschi
tjcora at icloud.com


> On 20 Dec 2020, at 7:06 AM, Robert Rochlin <rrochlin at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> 	In my father?s repair shop we used to stud tires.  I had a Datson 240Z and studied both front and rear tires (then recommended) It was like perpetually riding on ice the car wandered terribly.  I spent a whole afternoon removing the studs.  I don?t believe that studded tires are allowed in Massachusetts anymore.  They did a tune on the asphalt roads, as unlike chains, people had them on full time during the winter, and many all year.
> 	Best,
> 	bob
> 
>> On Dec 19, 2020, at 10:46 PM, Matt <mbarre at juno.com> wrote:
>> 
>> I had studded tires for a while when I lived in AK but I bought them new, ready to go with the studs installed.  If you can?t find some like that for your application, chains might be an easier solution or even some of the fabric solutions.  Good luck!
>> 
>> 
>> ---------- Original Message ----------
>> From: Eric Russell <ejrussell at mebtel.net>
>> To: shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire studs
>> Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2020 13:16:28 -0500
>> 
>> 
>> A gazillion years ago (before the invention of dirt) I wanted to put studded snow tires on my daily driver MGA. (I lived in Massachusetts then.) Tire stores were not allowed to sell studded snow tires. But they could sell snow tires and a package of studs for the DIY'er to install. The tires had a series of holes molded into the tread. The package of studs - they looked like solid rivets - came with an installation tool sort of like a screwdriver handle. Put the stud into the end of the tool, press the head of the stud into the holes molded into the tread and push until they were seated. It was a lot of work but I was young and hearty. As I recall, the studs had to be installed before the tires were driven on - I assume that otherwise the holes might get filled with dirt (a new invention) preventing the studs from being fully seated.
>> 
>> Eric Russell
>> Mebane, NC
>> 
>>  
>> On 12/17/2020 12:51 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote:
>> OK, I'm looking to put studs on my zero turn tractor for when I'm plowing snow. ?Is there any 'method' to putting them on? ?How many per tire? ?Patterns? ?The tires are a knobby design and work pretty good in the snow already, but once the snow packs a little to ice, they can't get any bite. ?So I figured some studs would be perfect.
>>  
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rrochlin at comcast.net
>> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tjcora at icloud.com
> 


From hillman at planet-torque.com  Sun Dec 20 15:06:48 2020
From: hillman at planet-torque.com (David Hillman)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2020 17:06:48 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tire studs
In-Reply-To: <OF85A47AB2.EC6FA9FD-ON85258641.006166BD-85258641.0062209B@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF85A47AB2.EC6FA9FD-ON85258641.006166BD-85258641.0062209B@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <alpine.BSF.2.20.16.2012201702540.25512@www570.pair.com>

On Thu, 17 Dec 2020, eric at megageek.com wrote:
> OK, I'm looking to put studs on my zero turn tractor for when I'm plowing
> snow.  Is there any 'method' to putting them on?  How many per tire?
> Patterns?  The tires are a knobby design and work pretty good in the snow
> already, but once the snow packs a little to ice, they can't get any bite.
> So I figured some studs would be perfect.

Buy some Kold Kutters, and screw them in from the outside.  By far the 
easiest installation option.

https://koldkutter.com/

I used to use these for ice-racers, with excellent results.  I still have 
a box of about 2500 of them, well-used and rusty now, kicking around here.

Depending on how thick the tread of your tires is, you might also want to 
add some Tire Slime or other sealant inside.

--
  David Hillman

From nogera at icloud.com  Sun Dec 20 21:05:58 2020
From: nogera at icloud.com (Robert Nogueirao)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2020 22:05:58 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Using RTV gasket maker
Message-ID: <A82C55ED-F15A-43CA-89CC-DED2F129ADF1@icloud.com>

Seems like every video of someone working on an engine has them using RTV gasket maker with a paper gasket, yet buried in the manufactures literature it specifically says not to use it to hold a paper gasket in place.  
I?ll admit I?ve done it and haven?t had any problems. 
What says the group, what do you use on gaskets?
Bob Nogueira

PS: and yes I?m aware of the ? globs? problem of fouling the oil pump screen. I use a thin coat placed closer to the outside edge.


From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Dec 20 21:26:53 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2020 20:26:53 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Using RTV gasket maker
In-Reply-To: <A82C55ED-F15A-43CA-89CC-DED2F129ADF1@icloud.com>
References: <A82C55ED-F15A-43CA-89CC-DED2F129ADF1@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <a6fd7309-8c48-5432-b4e3-8cd9c16dbe27@comcast.net>

Hoo boy ... right up there with 'which tires' and 'which oil.'

For me; depends on the application. On paper gaskets, I like Permatex 
'Aviation Form-A-Gasket #3,' as it cures to a glaze, which is easy to 
remove, and it's less likely to drop a glob in your oil passageways. I 
use blue RTV on valve cover gaskets, though, but I'm careful to use a 
thin bead which shouldn't spread wider than the gasket (I glue the 
gasket to the cover with 3M Upholstery Adhesive--aka 'yellow snot'). For 
metal-to-metal applications, I like Permatex Black Silicone 
Sealant/Adhesive (note if it says 'adhesive' it may be harder to 
separate parts in the future). I used this to seal the brake ring to 
output housing--no gasket required/shouldn't be used--on an overdrive 
and no leaks yet. Permatex 'Right Stuff' is a great sealant and a strong 
adhesive; it or something similar is used in place of gaskets in modern 
cars. It's not meant for easy removal (in fact, it's a bitch).

Timely comment; I just pulled the rear hubs on my BN2 because of leaky 
seals, and found some grit on the backside of the seals (no idea how it 
got there). I think I'll use the black stuff between the brake backing 
plate and the axle bracket--metal-to-metal--to try to prevent that in 
the future.

Bob

On 12/20/2020 8:05 PM, Robert Nogueirao wrote:
> Seems like every video of someone working on an engine has them using RTV gasket maker with a paper gasket, yet buried in the manufactures literature it specifically says not to use it to hold a paper gasket in place.
> I?ll admit I?ve done it and haven?t had any problems.
> What says the group, what do you use on gaskets?
> Bob Nogueira
>
> PS: and yes I?m aware of the ? globs? problem of fouling the oil pump screen. I use a thin coat placed closer to the outside edge.
>
>
>


From fishplate at gmail.com  Mon Dec 21 04:48:06 2020
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2020 06:48:06 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Using RTV gasket maker
In-Reply-To: <A82C55ED-F15A-43CA-89CC-DED2F129ADF1@icloud.com>
References: <A82C55ED-F15A-43CA-89CC-DED2F129ADF1@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CM=n8VFeWq8pBhJ3U+Hc1OBy+wCi91C=t0r2TD9L85EHA@mail.gmail.com>

I'm a big fan of Hylomar for that application.

On Sun, Dec 20, 2020, 23:07 Robert Nogueirao <nogera at icloud.com> wrote:

> Seems like every video of someone working on an engine has them using RTV
> gasket maker with a paper gasket, yet buried in the manufactures literature
> it specifically says not to use it to hold a paper gasket in place.
> I?ll admit I?ve done it and haven?t had any problems.
> What says the group, what do you use on gaskets?
> Bob Nogueira
>
> PS: and yes I?m aware of the ? globs? problem of fouling the oil pump
> screen. I use a thin coat placed closer to the outside edge.
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate at gmail.com
>
>
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Dec 21 05:33:35 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2020 12:33:35 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Using RTV gasket maker
In-Reply-To: <A82C55ED-F15A-43CA-89CC-DED2F129ADF1@icloud.com>
References: <A82C55ED-F15A-43CA-89CC-DED2F129ADF1@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <567896162.1912263.1608554015841@mail.yahoo.com>

 Not all RTV sealants are created equal.? Some will tolerate engine oil and others, not so sure.? Check the manufacturer's data sheet (which are typically only available online).? I have not found one that is tolerant of gasoline.? If the sealant is not tolerant it will swell up and flow globules as you mention.? Frankly, I'm only comfortable using RTV on coolant applications but I have used it to stick my new Silicone valve cover gasket to my valve cover.? I prefer Hylomar for paper gaskets.? Perhaps those You-Tubers are getting compensation for product placement.? (Jus' sayin')

One recommendation I heard is to apply the RTV sparingly but equally, assemble the parts and tighten the fasteners finger-tight.? Wait about half an hour and THEN torque down the fasteners.? This will allow the RTV to take a set and not ooze out into the space where it should not go.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Nogueirao <nogera at icloud.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Dec 20, 2020 10:05 pm
Subject: [Shop-talk] Using RTV gasket maker

Seems like every video of someone working on an engine has them using RTV gasket maker with a paper gasket, yet buried in the manufactures literature it specifically says not to use it to hold a paper gasket in place.? 
I?ll admit I?ve done it and haven?t had any problems. 
What says the group, what do you use on gaskets?
Bob Nogueira

PS: and yes I?m aware of the ? globs? problem of fouling the oil pump screen. I use a thin coat placed closer to the outside edge.

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

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From jdinnis at gmail.com  Mon Dec 21 07:17:22 2020
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2020 08:17:22 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Using RTV gasket maker
In-Reply-To: <A82C55ED-F15A-43CA-89CC-DED2F129ADF1@icloud.com>
References: <A82C55ED-F15A-43CA-89CC-DED2F129ADF1@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <CANuE7YAOM8tkCruhTJmc0YG5PWrAFzmH0ujWE=S-E-BLtRq4jQ@mail.gmail.com>

I have a very specific procedure for paper gaskets that I was taught by my
father (a mechanic and shop teacher).  It has always worked well for me.
First, Clean the sealing surfaces and make sure they are smooth.  If you
use a wire brush on aluminum surfaces you are likely going to get some
scratches, clean it up with some 1500 grit sandpaper.  Next, I liberally
coat the gasket in oil.  The theory here is that the gasket is absorbent.
If you saturate it to start with it will not want to absorb any additional
oil or water from the thing you are trying to seal.  Next, it gets a thin
(and I do mean THIN) coating of RTV.  NOTE do not use HYLOMAR for this
application, you want an RTV that will set.  Wait a couple minutes for the
RTV to start to set then assemble and torque to sepc.  NOTE that in my
experience 90% of gasket failure is tied to improper torque values or
pattern.  Finally, WAIT.  Do not put the part into service until the RTV is
fully cured.  This step, above all else will prevent any excess RTV form
clogging up anything.  I have used this technique for more than 30 years
and never had a gasket leak.  YMMV.

On Sun, Dec 20, 2020 at 10:07 PM Robert Nogueirao <nogera at icloud.com> wrote:

> Seems like every video of someone working on an engine has them using RTV
> gasket maker with a paper gasket, yet buried in the manufactures literature
> it specifically says not to use it to hold a paper gasket in place.
> I?ll admit I?ve done it and haven?t had any problems.
> What says the group, what do you use on gaskets?
> Bob Nogueira
>
> PS: and yes I?m aware of the ? globs? problem of fouling the oil pump
> screen. I use a thin coat placed closer to the outside edge.
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================
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From darrellw360 at mac.com  Sat Dec 26 12:05:41 2020
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 11:05:41 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media
Message-ID: <B6EC42D6-A36C-4590-AB9C-F80801907F6B@mac.com>


I?m thinking of using some Christmas money on a bench top blast cabinet.  I realize the small size will limit what I can blast, but that is about all the space I?m willing to allocate, and it should handle most of what I would be looking at blasting.

So a some questions for the list:

1.  For those of you with blast cabinets, do you find yourself using it more than you expected?  My first project would be cleaning up some suspension parts (mostly paint removal).  I think enough projects come along that it would be worth having one, but I would love to be surprised to find additional uses.

2.  What is a good all purpose, reusable media to use?  I would mostly be removing paint, and some surface rust.

3.  The first parts I would be cleaning have some machined surfaces (threaded holes, tapers, etc).  How careful do you need to be to protect those areas?  And what if the best way to do that?  One of the parts will be a strut tube, which includes the stub axle.  I?m thinking that wrapping that area in duct tape might be a good idea.

Thanks!
-Darrell

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA


From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Sat Dec 26 12:31:58 2020
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Benjamin Zwissler)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 14:31:58 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media
In-Reply-To: <B6EC42D6-A36C-4590-AB9C-F80801907F6B@mac.com>
References: <B6EC42D6-A36C-4590-AB9C-F80801907F6B@mac.com>
Message-ID: <CAMHq6Zwm__AKWtAaFB8iz5gaj3ggcW=oh0kOhoc0+6_Q8jy-mg@mail.gmail.com>

I bought a middle size/quality floor mount cabinet from Greg Smith
equipment (model sbc42) about 3 years ago.  It's great and I don't regret
it in any way.

To answer your questions:

1.   I use it about how I expected and do lots of suspension and other
similar components. Probably an hour a week on average.  You need lots of
air, I have an 18 cfm compressor and it mostly keeps up. Usually I don't
need the bigger cabinet, but I also clean wheels, driveshafts and other
larger parts that's wouldn't fit in the smaller cabinets.

2.  For heavy cast parts I mostly use coal slag sold at Menard's around
here.  I've also used glass beads and walnut shells for finer material but
they're about 4 times the cost.  They're all reusable but are slowly
consumed.  After a while it's a good idea to change it out with new.  A
good filter/separator will pull out the dust and fine particles.  Nozzles,
filters and plastic window shields are the other major consumables.  I've
debated whether the plastic shields are better than just replacing the
glass periodically.

3. I use ear plugs to fill tapped holes and tape threads as you mentioned.
I would not blast any part that you're not going to completely tear down
and clean thoroughly.  The grit will get everywhere so I always degrease
first, blast, detergent wash and repeat as required before painting.

Good luck, Ben

On Sat, Dec 26, 2020, 2:07 PM Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com> wrote:

>
> I?m thinking of using some Christmas money on a bench top blast cabinet.
> I realize the small size will limit what I can blast, but that is about all
> the space I?m willing to allocate, and it should handle most of what I
> would be looking at blasting.
>
> So a some questions for the list:
>
> 1.  For those of you with blast cabinets, do you find yourself using it
> more than you expected?  My first project would be cleaning up some
> suspension parts (mostly paint removal).  I think enough projects come
> along that it would be worth having one, but I would love to be surprised
> to find additional uses.
>
> 2.  What is a good all purpose, reusable media to use?  I would mostly be
> removing paint, and some surface rust.
>
> 3.  The first parts I would be cleaning have some machined surfaces
> (threaded holes, tapers, etc).  How careful do you need to be to protect
> those areas?  And what if the best way to do that?  One of the parts will
> be a strut tube, which includes the stub axle.  I?m thinking that wrapping
> that area in duct tape might be a good idea.
>
> Thanks!
> -Darrell
>
> --
> Darrell Walker
> 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
> 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
> Vancouver, WA, USA
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler at gmail.com
>
>
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From stearman809 at gmail.com  Sat Dec 26 12:59:08 2020
From: stearman809 at gmail.com (Karl Vacek)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 13:59:08 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media
In-Reply-To: <B6EC42D6-A36C-4590-AB9C-F80801907F6B@mac.com>
References: <B6EC42D6-A36C-4590-AB9C-F80801907F6B@mac.com>
Message-ID: <176a0a21ee0.28bf.cd27845553c78383775132770b7455be@gmail.com>

Not a bench top cabinet, but the Harbor Freight floor standing cabinet I 
bought about 2007 is  probably the best thing I've ever bought there.  
Sturdy, powder coated, big enough for most things I need.  I've even put 
longer things in there and just put an industrial strength garbage bag over 
the projecting parts, taped to the cabinet.

I put it on a welded steel base with large casters.  I appreciate the 
greater height and mobility.  Could use a foot pedal instead of the 
trigger, easy enough to do if I ever bother.  The single door is mostly OK, 
but I'd prefer doors on both sides.  A lift top door might be okay, but not 
my preference.

Blazing does need lots of air.  A real 2 HP compressor was always fine for 
conventional paint spraying, but with the higher pressures required it's 
barely enough for blasting.  Works if you don't mind blasting for a few 
minutes and then waiting at least that long again for recovery.

Certainly something like an oleo strut needs the sliding surfaces 
protected.  Threads are usually ok, but probably not overly fine ones.  I 
mostly use glass beads.  Changing media isn't as fast as you might expect, 
unless you don't mind the last media contaminating the next media you use.

On December 26, 2020 1:06:07 PM Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com> wrote:

> I?m thinking of using some Christmas money on a bench top blast cabinet.  I 
> realize the small size will limit what I can blast, but that is about all 
> the space I?m willing to allocate, and it should handle most of what I 
> would be looking at blasting.
>
> So a some questions for the list:
>
> 1.  For those of you with blast cabinets, do you find yourself using it 
> more than you expected?  My first project would be cleaning up some 
> suspension parts (mostly paint removal).  I think enough projects come 
> along that it would be worth having one, but I would love to be surprised 
> to find additional uses.
>
> 2.  What is a good all purpose, reusable media to use?  I would mostly be 
> removing paint, and some surface rust.
>
> 3.  The first parts I would be cleaning have some machined surfaces 
> (threaded holes, tapers, etc).  How careful do you need to be to protect 
> those areas?  And what if the best way to do that?  One of the parts will 
> be a strut tube, which includes the stub axle.  I?m thinking that wrapping 
> that area in duct tape might be a good idea.
>
> Thanks!
> -Darrell
>
> --
> Darrell Walker
> 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
> 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
> Vancouver, WA, USA
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/stearman809 at gmail.com

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From lists at dinospider.com  Sat Dec 26 13:23:10 2020
From: lists at dinospider.com (Mike Rambour)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 12:23:10 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media
In-Reply-To: <B6EC42D6-A36C-4590-AB9C-F80801907F6B@mac.com>
References: <B6EC42D6-A36C-4590-AB9C-F80801907F6B@mac.com>
Message-ID: <c1a45c09-c867-946c-a874-6518a4af6c53@dinospider.com>

 ? I built my own blast cabinet using the kit at TPtools ( 
https://www.tptools.com/Trigger-Operated-Build-Your-Own-Cabinet-Kit.html 
)? Built it well over 20 years ago, still going strong.? I built it to 
the size I needed at the time and have used it seems like all the time, 
its help up well, I did not build it with 2x4 legs as per the plans, I 
used angle iron so I could weld on some casters.? At the time I bought 
it, there was a kit with everything needed, the glass, light, gloves, 
etc.? I see now they only have plans OR the plans and the gun, pickup 
tube.? If you buy everything you need from them, the Harbor Fright 
system will likely cost less but with the kit, you get to build it the 
size you need, if I remember correctly, it was not a hard build, I also 
modified the plans and put doors on both ends.? It still works after a 
good 20 or so years.

 ??? mike

On 12/26/20 11:05 AM, Darrell Walker wrote:
> I?m thinking of using some Christmas money on a bench top blast cabinet.  I realize the small size will limit what I can blast, but that is about all the space I?m willing to allocate, and it should handle most of what I would be looking at blasting.
>
> So a some questions for the list:
>
> 1.  For those of you with blast cabinets, do you find yourself using it more than you expected?  My first project would be cleaning up some suspension parts (mostly paint removal).  I think enough projects come along that it would be worth having one, but I would love to be surprised to find additional uses.
>
> 2.  What is a good all purpose, reusable media to use?  I would mostly be removing paint, and some surface rust.
>
> 3.  The first parts I would be cleaning have some machined surfaces (threaded holes, tapers, etc).  How careful do you need to be to protect those areas?  And what if the best way to do that?  One of the parts will be a strut tube, which includes the stub axle.  I?m thinking that wrapping that area in duct tape might be a good idea.
>
> Thanks!
> -Darrell
>

-- 
A gun is like a parachute, if you need one but don't have it,
you'll probably never need one again.


From eric at megageek.com  Sat Dec 26 13:29:53 2020
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 15:29:53 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media
In-Reply-To: <B6EC42D6-A36C-4590-AB9C-F80801907F6B@mac.com>
References: <B6EC42D6-A36C-4590-AB9C-F80801907F6B@mac.com>
Message-ID: <OF3B261251.055F80C9-ON8525864A.007048AB-8525864A.0070994D@mail.megageek.com>

To answer the question about how useful a cabinet is that as long as it is 
always 'ready to go' you will find lots of time it's handy.  For mine, I 
just turn on the air to the cabinet (valve right at unit) and flip on the 
light.  If I am going to be blasting long, I'll flip on the exhaust as 
well.

But if I had to get it out, hook it up, move stuff around, I wouldn't use 
it as much.

I keep AL oxide in mine.  It's very aggressive, but I'm mostly cleaning 
really rusty stuff.

Just my 2 cents worth


"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?
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From patintexas at icloud.com  Sat Dec 26 13:43:10 2020
From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 14:43:10 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media
In-Reply-To: <OF3B261251.055F80C9-ON8525864A.007048AB-8525864A.0070994D@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF3B261251.055F80C9-ON8525864A.007048AB-8525864A.0070994D@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <66C2978E-9CD5-4975-BF38-20FD47C0BF83@icloud.com>

I didn?t get the original post so I am piggybacking on this post. 

Freestanding vs tabletop: I bought a tabletop from Eastwood. As designed it is pretty poor. The bottom doesn?t slope enough to feed abrasive. I left the grate out & just work on the abrasive pile. It?s fine but sometimes it?s hard to find small parts. Freestanding would have been better but I bought it for a single care restoration so didn?t want to spend the $$$. The light is a joke also. I?ve been waiting for a replacement window for 6 months. Keep saying it?s back ordered. I don?t recommend this unit but it?ll do. 

Media: I use fine coal slag. $10/50 lbs @ Tractor Supply. Works great. 

Like Eric says, mine is set up really to go. 

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne 
We support Habitat for Humanity


On Dec 26, 2020, at 2:31 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote:

?To answer the question about how useful a cabinet is that as long as it is always 'ready to go' you will find lots of time it's handy.  For mine, I just turn on the air to the cabinet (valve right at unit) and flip on the light.  If I am going to be blasting long, I'll flip on the exhaust as well. 

But if I had to get it out, hook it up, move stuff around, I wouldn't use it as much. 

I keep AL oxide in mine.  It's very aggressive, but I'm mostly cleaning really rusty stuff. 

Just my 2 cents worth 


"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

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From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Sat Dec 26 13:52:25 2020
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 15:52:25 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media
In-Reply-To: <B6EC42D6-A36C-4590-AB9C-F80801907F6B@mac.com>
References: <B6EC42D6-A36C-4590-AB9C-F80801907F6B@mac.com>
Message-ID: <70e516d9-8551-e3af-7faa-6975deb6c001@mebtel.net>

I built my blasting cabinet based on plans from TP Tools. I later built 
a closed box that latches onto the side for larger/longer items.

Being set up & ready to go at all times means I use it often. It's as 
simple as hooking up the air line and flipping a switch for the light. I 
also added a cyclone separator between the cabinet & my shop vac. This 
helps keep the view from being obscured by the dust cloud and helps the 
shop vac's filter last longer.

Aluminum Oxide is available in various grits and seems to be fairly long 
lasting (but all media eventually breaks down and needs replacement). 
Recycled ground glass (available from TP Tools and likely others) works 
well and seems to have less dust. It might be a good 'all purpose' 
media. Walnut shells is great for fine cleaning - like carburetors. Be 
sure to clean out the cabinet before changing media - especially when 
going from coarse to fine. BTW, be careful using glass beads - when (not 
if) they are spilled it's like walking on icy grease!

An assortment of rubber plugs/corks will protect threaded holes. A layer 
or two of duct tape will protect machined surfaces. Cleaning rusty 
threaded parts is fun - after blasting they'll often turn by hand.

-- 
Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

On 12/26/2020 2:05 PM, Darrell Walker wrote:
> I?m thinking of using some Christmas money on a bench top blast cabinet.  I realize the small size will limit what I can blast, but that is about all the space I?m willing to allocate, and it should handle most of what I would be looking at blasting.
>
> So a some questions for the list:
>
> 1.  For those of you with blast cabinets, do you find yourself using it more than you expected?  My first project would be cleaning up some suspension parts (mostly paint removal).  I think enough projects come along that it would be worth having one, but I would love to be surprised to find additional uses.
>
> 2.  What is a good all purpose, reusable media to use?  I would mostly be removing paint, and some surface rust.
>
> 3.  The first parts I would be cleaning have some machined surfaces (threaded holes, tapers, etc).  How careful do you need to be to protect those areas?  And what if the best way to do that?  One of the parts will be a strut tube, which includes the stub axle.  I?m thinking that wrapping that area in duct tape might be a good idea.
>
> Thanks!
> -Darrell
>

From 1789alpine at gmail.com  Sat Dec 26 14:51:53 2020
From: 1789alpine at gmail.com (Jim Stone)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 16:51:53 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media
In-Reply-To: <70e516d9-8551-e3af-7faa-6975deb6c001@mebtel.net>
References: <B6EC42D6-A36C-4590-AB9C-F80801907F6B@mac.com>
 <70e516d9-8551-e3af-7faa-6975deb6c001@mebtel.net>
Message-ID: <A93324F8-74A5-41F2-AFF4-521772A2D832@gmail.com>

To your first question, I had a HF floor cabinet for many years and, while it leaked pretty badly until I spent some time siliconing all of the joints, I loved having it and used it far more than I would ever have thought.  (FWIW, I got rid of it a few years ago because my current garage is a lot smaller and because I have a friend with a professional set up only 10 minutes away.  But, I still miss having one in my garage!)

One thing I will add re: your third question is something I learned when I had a car blasted a few years ago.  The blasting company told me that duct tape was great for protecting areas you didn?t want blasted but had a tendency to be very hard to remove following blasting.  Their recommendation was to first use masking tape on the protected areas and then put the duct tape on top of that.  I did that with the VIN tag and it worked perfectly.  It may not be necessary with a home set-up, but I have followed that advice ever since, just to be safe.

Jim

> On Dec 26, 2020, at 3:52 PM, Eric Russell <ejrussell at mebtel.net> wrote:
> 
> I built my blasting cabinet based on plans from TP Tools. I later built a closed box that latches onto the side for larger/longer items.
> 
> Being set up & ready to go at all times means I use it often. It's as simple as hooking up the air line and flipping a switch for the light. I also added a cyclone separator between the cabinet & my shop vac. This helps keep the view from being obscured by the dust cloud and helps the shop vac's filter last longer.
> 
> Aluminum Oxide is available in various grits and seems to be fairly long lasting (but all media eventually breaks down and needs replacement). Recycled ground glass (available from TP Tools and likely others) works well and seems to have less dust. It might be a good 'all purpose' media. Walnut shells is great for fine cleaning - like carburetors. Be sure to clean out the cabinet before changing media - especially when going from coarse to fine. BTW, be careful using glass beads - when (not if) they are spilled it's like walking on icy grease!
> 
> An assortment of rubber plugs/corks will protect threaded holes. A layer or two of duct tape will protect machined surfaces. Cleaning rusty threaded parts is fun - after blasting they'll often turn by hand.
> 
> -- 
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
> 
> On 12/26/2020 2:05 PM, Darrell Walker wrote:
>> I?m thinking of using some Christmas money on a bench top blast cabinet.  I realize the small size will limit what I can blast, but that is about all the space I?m willing to allocate, and it should handle most of what I would be looking at blasting.
>> 
>> So a some questions for the list:
>> 
>> 1.  For those of you with blast cabinets, do you find yourself using it more than you expected?  My first project would be cleaning up some suspension parts (mostly paint removal).  I think enough projects come along that it would be worth having one, but I would love to be surprised to find additional uses.
>> 
>> 2.  What is a good all purpose, reusable media to use?  I would mostly be removing paint, and some surface rust.
>> 
>> 3.  The first parts I would be cleaning have some machined surfaces (threaded holes, tapers, etc).  How careful do you need to be to protect those areas?  And what if the best way to do that?  One of the parts will be a strut tube, which includes the stub axle.  I?m thinking that wrapping that area in duct tape might be a good idea.
>> 
>> Thanks!
>> -Darrell
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789alpine at gmail.com
> 


From marka at maracing.com  Sat Dec 26 16:01:22 2020
From: marka at maracing.com (Mark Andy)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 18:01:22 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media
In-Reply-To: <B6EC42D6-A36C-4590-AB9C-F80801907F6B@mac.com>
References: <B6EC42D6-A36C-4590-AB9C-F80801907F6B@mac.com>
Message-ID: <CAAoSWGOpb4Va7R3FdhjMFPs20cHxeccg95b2OBBiqGbCZ-vyHg@mail.gmail.com>

Howdy,

I used to have a smaller benchtop blast cabinet.  As someone else said,
mine had less slope on the sides under the grate, so media didn't feed as
well.  The pickup tube & gun also weren't great.  IIRC I modified the
pickup tube to work better, but it's been so long I have no idea what I did.

I've since replaced it with a TP Tools floor standing cabinet, which is
better in every way.  Mine is a top loader which I find better in terms of
shop packaging (you can have stuff right beside it), loading (easier for me
to lift stuff in there over the top edge vs. shoving it in the side), and
changing the plastic protector film (WAY nicer than my dad's side loader).

Invariably, your blast cabinet will be too small no matter how big it is.

In terms of how often I use it... Basically any time I want to paint
something metal that fits in it, any time I weld anything that fits in it,
any time I want to clean up rusty stuff that fits in it, etc.  In addition,
it's one of those tools where nothing else substitutes.  Nothing cleans
parts as well as a sandblaster, and nothing works as fast as a
sandblaster.  So if you're doing stuff where that kind of thing matters,
you'll love having it.

Mine is also ready to go at a flip of a valve & switch.  I wired my light &
vacuum / dust system to the same switch, so it's fast and easy to throw
something in there to get it cleaned up.

Media-wise I don't have any particular recommendations.  What's available
may be different based on your area as well.  I'm almost never doing
anything fine, so I lean toward the aggressive side and when I need media I
just hit my local supplier (TP Tools is local to me) and ask them what
everyone likes.

The tip of using masking tape under duct tape sounds like a great one for
protecting things.  I would say that generally I'm not too worried about
that.  I've never had any issues with the blaster eating threads or
anything.

Size your nozzles to your compressor.  When I used to have a smaller direct
drive setup I used either small or extra small nozzles and while it wasn't
as fast, I was able to use the blaster.  These days I use mediums with a 19
(??) or so CFM compressor.

Get plenty of plastic protector films.  Every single time I've changed it,
I've kicked myself for not doing it sooner when I look through the new
one.  :)

Mark

On Sat, Dec 26, 2020 at 2:06 PM Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com> wrote:

>
> I?m thinking of using some Christmas money on a bench top blast cabinet.
> I realize the small size will limit what I can blast, but that is about all
> the space I?m willing to allocate, and it should handle most of what I
> would be looking at blasting.
>
> So a some questions for the list:
>
> 1.  For those of you with blast cabinets, do you find yourself using it
> more than you expected?  My first project would be cleaning up some
> suspension parts (mostly paint removal).  I think enough projects come
> along that it would be worth having one, but I would love to be surprised
> to find additional uses.
>
> 2.  What is a good all purpose, reusable media to use?  I would mostly be
> removing paint, and some surface rust.
>
> 3.  The first parts I would be cleaning have some machined surfaces
> (threaded holes, tapers, etc).  How careful do you need to be to protect
> those areas?  And what if the best way to do that?  One of the parts will
> be a strut tube, which includes the stub axle.  I?m thinking that wrapping
> that area in duct tape might be a good idea.
>
> Thanks!
> -Darrell
>
> --
> Darrell Walker
> 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
> 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
> Vancouver, WA, USA
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/marka at maracing.com
>
>
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From tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com  Sun Dec 27 08:19:47 2020
From: tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com (Tim .)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 15:19:47 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media
In-Reply-To: <B6EC42D6-A36C-4590-AB9C-F80801907F6B@mac.com>
References: <B6EC42D6-A36C-4590-AB9C-F80801907F6B@mac.com>
Message-ID: <DS7PR19MB46292A7004426F501673A689B4DA0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>

My .02: No matter what you buy, spend EXTRA time sealing every seam. I did this and mine still leaks and makes a mess out of a couple spots. Seal, and re-seal. rinse and repeat.

tim

________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 26, 2020 1:05 PM
To: shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media


I?m thinking of using some Christmas money on a bench top blast cabinet.  I realize the small size will limit what I can blast, but that is about all the space I?m willing to allocate, and it should handle most of what I would be looking at blasting.

So a some questions for the list:

1.  For those of you with blast cabinets, do you find yourself using it more than you expected?  My first project would be cleaning up some suspension parts (mostly paint removal).  I think enough projects come along that it would be worth having one, but I would love to be surprised to find additional uses.

2.  What is a good all purpose, reusable media to use?  I would mostly be removing paint, and some surface rust.

3.  The first parts I would be cleaning have some machined surfaces (threaded holes, tapers, etc).  How careful do you need to be to protect those areas?  And what if the best way to do that?  One of the parts will be a strut tube, which includes the stub axle.  I?m thinking that wrapping that area in duct tape might be a good idea.

Thanks!
-Darrell

--
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Sun Dec 27 08:29:19 2020
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 10:29:19 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media
In-Reply-To: <70e516d9-8551-e3af-7faa-6975deb6c001@mebtel.net>
References: <B6EC42D6-A36C-4590-AB9C-F80801907F6B@mac.com>
 <70e516d9-8551-e3af-7faa-6975deb6c001@mebtel.net>
Message-ID: <CADm3DLHywpbMg_P95B2LkrhkW_1P+tTgKJ9AUw9-j-XYKxvYGQ@mail.gmail.com>

Like Eric, about 35 years ago I built one of the TP Tools blasting cabinet
kits made from 3/4" plywood and it's been working great all these years.
At the same time I also bought their vacuum kit and built a dedicated
vacuum from two 30 gallon drums.  The vacuum motor lasted all these years
but finally gave up the ghost this summer so I bought their replacement
motor and all is well again. I've probably replaced the window glass a
dozen times over the years.

 Mine is free standing and always ready to use.  It is used frequently and
every time I use it I'm reminded of the reason I originally built it, the
restoration of a 63 spitfire :)

I don't know what I'd do without it.

Brad
Merry Christmas everyone :)


On Sat, Dec 26, 2020 at 3:53 PM Eric Russell <ejrussell at mebtel.net> wrote:

> I built my blasting cabinet based on plans from TP Tools. I later built
> a closed box that latches onto the side for larger/longer items.
>
> Being set up & ready to go at all times means I use it often. It's as
> simple as hooking up the air line and flipping a switch for the light. I
> also added a cyclone separator between the cabinet & my shop vac. This
> helps keep the view from being obscured by the dust cloud and helps the
> shop vac's filter last longer.
>
> Aluminum Oxide is available in various grits and seems to be fairly long
> lasting (but all media eventually breaks down and needs replacement).
> Recycled ground glass (available from TP Tools and likely others) works
> well and seems to have less dust. It might be a good 'all purpose'
> media. Walnut shells is great for fine cleaning - like carburetors. Be
> sure to clean out the cabinet before changing media - especially when
> going from coarse to fine. BTW, be careful using glass beads - when (not
> if) they are spilled it's like walking on icy grease!
>
> An assortment of rubber plugs/corks will protect threaded holes. A layer
> or two of duct tape will protect machined surfaces. Cleaning rusty
> threaded parts is fun - after blasting they'll often turn by hand.
>
> --
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
>
> On 12/26/2020 2:05 PM, Darrell Walker wrote:
> > I?m thinking of using some Christmas money on a bench top blast
> cabinet.  I realize the small size will limit what I can blast, but that is
> about all the space I?m willing to allocate, and it should handle most of
> what I would be looking at blasting.
> >
> > So a some questions for the list:
> >
> > 1.  For those of you with blast cabinets, do you find yourself using it
> more than you expected?  My first project would be cleaning up some
> suspension parts (mostly paint removal).  I think enough projects come
> along that it would be worth having one, but I would love to be surprised
> to find additional uses.
> >
> > 2.  What is a good all purpose, reusable media to use?  I would mostly
> be removing paint, and some surface rust.
> >
> > 3.  The first parts I would be cleaning have some machined surfaces
> (threaded holes, tapers, etc).  How careful do you need to be to protect
> those areas?  And what if the best way to do that?  One of the parts will
> be a strut tube, which includes the stub axle.  I?m thinking that wrapping
> that area in duct tape might be a good idea.
> >
> > Thanks!
> > -Darrell
> >
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bkahler1 at gmail.com
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From bk13 at earthlink.net  Sun Dec 27 10:16:01 2020
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 09:16:01 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media
In-Reply-To: <CAAoSWGOpb4Va7R3FdhjMFPs20cHxeccg95b2OBBiqGbCZ-vyHg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <B6EC42D6-A36C-4590-AB9C-F80801907F6B@mac.com>
 <CAAoSWGOpb4Va7R3FdhjMFPs20cHxeccg95b2OBBiqGbCZ-vyHg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7df140d6-70f0-481f-a857-d78b87ea776e@earthlink.net>

For those on the list that think it sure would be nice to have a blast 
cabinet of any sort, but don't have space for even a small one, you can 
do what I did when I lived in an apartment and make one out of a box and 
a sheet of plexiglass.? I used a box about 18x18x24 and taped three of 
the flaps up, leaving a long one down for my arms.? I taped a piece of 
24x30 plexiglass to the top.

Bought a cheap sand blaster hoper/gun setup from Sears.? Here is an option:
https://www.harborfreight.com/portable-abrasive-blaster-kit-37025.html

Used it out in the driveway with gloves and a respirator - too much dust 
for in the garage.? Given the ultra fine silica dust, a respirator is 
important - you need more than a dust mask.? Sifted the used play sand 
with a mesh baseball cap to reuse.

Worked great for my TR6 suspension bits and folded up under an inch 
thick.? Didn't have a compressor, so ran it off partially empty scuba 
tanks fed through a portable air tank.

Hopefully this some of the space or finance limited list members that 
there are resourceful ways to do things like sandblasting.

Brian

> On Sat, Dec 26, 2020 at 2:06 PM Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com 
> <mailto:darrellw360 at mac.com>> wrote:
>
>
>     I?m thinking of using some Christmas money on a bench top blast
>     cabinet.? I realize the small size will limit what I can blast,
>     but that is about all the space I?m willing to allocate, and it
>     should handle most of what I would be looking at blasting.
>
>     So a some questions for the list:
>
>     1.? For those of you with blast cabinets, do you find yourself
>     using it more than you expected?? My first project would be
>     cleaning up some suspension parts (mostly paint removal).? I think
>     enough projects come along that it would be worth having one, but
>     I would love to be surprised to find additional uses.
>
>     2.? What is a good all purpose, reusable media to use?? I would
>     mostly be removing paint, and some surface rust.
>
>     3.? The first parts I would be cleaning have some machined
>     surfaces (threaded holes, tapers, etc).? How careful do you need
>     to be to protect those areas?? And what if the best way to do
>     that?? One of the parts will be a strut tube, which includes the
>     stub axle.? I?m thinking that wrapping that area in duct tape
>     might be a good idea.
>
>     Thanks!
>     -Darrell
>
>     -- 
>     Darrell Walker
>     66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
>     81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
>     Vancouver, WA, USA
>
>     _______________________________________________
>
>     Shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.96
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>     <http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk>
>     http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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From jblair1948 at cox.net  Sun Dec 27 11:55:23 2020
From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 13:55:23 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media
In-Reply-To: <7df140d6-70f0-481f-a857-d78b87ea776e@earthlink.net>
References: <B6EC42D6-A36C-4590-AB9C-F80801907F6B@mac.com>
 <CAAoSWGOpb4Va7R3FdhjMFPs20cHxeccg95b2OBBiqGbCZ-vyHg@mail.gmail.com>
 <7df140d6-70f0-481f-a857-d78b87ea776e@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20201227133340.04b701e0@cox.net>

At 12:16 PM 12/27/2020, Brian wrote:

 >For those on the list that think it sure would 
be nice to have a blast cabinet of any
 >sort, but don't have space for even a small 
one, you can do what I did when I
 >lived in an apartment and make one out of a box and a sheet of plexiglass. I
 >used a box about 18x18x24 and taped three of 
the flaps up, leaving a long one
 >down for my arms. I taped a piece of 24x30 plexiglass to the top.
 >
 >Bought a cheap sand blaster hoper/gun setup from Sears.?  Here is an option:
 ><https://www.harborfreight.com/portable-abrasive-blaster-kit-37025.html>https://www.harborfreight.com/portable-abrasive-blaster-kit-37025.html
 >
 >......

Brian,

I second that.  Years ago, my guess is late 80s or early 90s there was a
company, Savings by Design, Inc., that was 
selling a cardboard blast cabinet.  I
used that for several years until Harbor Freight 
came out with a plastic table top
one.  Used those 2, the cardboard and plastic 
one, for many years and at least 2
cars.  Then a friend gave me a nice one on rollers.

I also bought a Harbor Freight pressure blaster.  Used that in the corner of my
back yard.  Tied a piece of rope across the "L" 
in one corner, hung a heavy plastic
sheet acoss the rope with clothes pins.  So I had 
a nice "L" with the plastic, vertical
and then on the ground.  That way I could recover about 90 - 95% of the sand.
I used a piece of screen over a funnel as I 
scooped up the sand and refilled the
pressure blaster.

Check out the article I wrote on how I did it:

http://autox.team.net/morgan/tech/blasting/mediablast.html

I mention the cardboard cabinet in this article, about 1/2 way down:

http://www.team.net/www/morgan/tech/art017_2.html

It's a shame that they still aren't available.  I 
don't know why they company quite selling them 
and folded, but my guess is the  plastic ones just got to competative
in price.

One note on using a Shop vac to evacuate the dust from the cabinet.  Put a
couple of inches of water in the bottom of the vac.  This will help keep from
clogging the filter so quickly.

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/morgan
Bricklin:     www.bricklin.org

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From darrellw360 at mac.com  Sun Dec 27 12:25:54 2020
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 11:25:54 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media
In-Reply-To: <6.2.5.6.1.20201227133340.04b701e0@cox.net>
References: <B6EC42D6-A36C-4590-AB9C-F80801907F6B@mac.com>
 <CAAoSWGOpb4Va7R3FdhjMFPs20cHxeccg95b2OBBiqGbCZ-vyHg@mail.gmail.com>
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 <6.2.5.6.1.20201227133340.04b701e0@cox.net>
Message-ID: <36A39200-7FBA-47CC-BB88-C7FCFD17CB91@mac.com>


Thanks for all of the blast cabinet advice!

Regarding building one, I actually found a YouTube video about making one from a large plastic storage container.  And the TP Tools plans look good, too.  But in this case, I?m willing to outsource, rather than take on another project.

Anyway, I?ve settled on the larger bench top unit that Eastwood sells.  It is almost as large as some freestanding units, and seems to have more sloped bottom than some other table top models.

I?m going to try some glass bead media initially, since it can be used on a variety of parts, and I?m removing more paint that rust.

I do plan to use a shop vac with it.

Thanks again!

-Darrell


-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA


From doug at dougbraun.com  Sun Dec 27 21:34:35 2020
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 23:34:35 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media
In-Reply-To: <36A39200-7FBA-47CC-BB88-C7FCFD17CB91@mac.com>
References: <B6EC42D6-A36C-4590-AB9C-F80801907F6B@mac.com>
 <CAAoSWGOpb4Va7R3FdhjMFPs20cHxeccg95b2OBBiqGbCZ-vyHg@mail.gmail.com>
 <7df140d6-70f0-481f-a857-d78b87ea776e@earthlink.net>
 <6.2.5.6.1.20201227133340.04b701e0@cox.net>
 <36A39200-7FBA-47CC-BB88-C7FCFD17CB91@mac.com>
Message-ID: <CAOtbU9VLK8mOHEmSY4W-5D+81v+zoV2S+GoKszJhhPDb_CL4gA@mail.gmail.com>

I, too, built a free-standing cabinet about 15 years ago, using TP Tools
parts and plans.  I've used it a lot over the years, and I'm quite happy
with it:

http://31ford.dougbraun.com/blast_cabinet

Wow, my garage was so much cleaner back then, before I did a lot of
painting...

Doug

On Sun, Dec 27, 2020 at 2:27 PM Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com> wrote:

>
> Thanks for all of the blast cabinet advice!
>
> Regarding building one, I actually found a YouTube video about making one
> from a large plastic storage container.  And the TP Tools plans look good,
> too.  But in this case, I?m willing to outsource, rather than take on
> another project.
>
> Anyway, I?ve settled on the larger bench top unit that Eastwood sells.  It
> is almost as large as some freestanding units, and seems to have more
> sloped bottom than some other table top models.
>
> I?m going to try some glass bead media initially, since it can be used on
> a variety of parts, and I?m removing more paint that rust.
>
> I do plan to use a shop vac with it.
>
> Thanks again!
>
> -Darrell
>
>
> --
> Darrell Walker
> 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
> 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
> Vancouver, WA, USA
>
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>
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