[Shop-talk] M*th%&$#c<ing small engines d*mn again
Donald H Locker
dhlocker at comcast.net
Sun Aug 9 03:29:24 MDT 2020
<https://cdn.datamanager.arinet.com/image/MTD/d075d134-a7c8-43a8-95d3-3b44c0191f4a/ExtraLarge>
is an exploded parts diagram of the engine. Ignition module (includes
the coil) is #24; flywheel is #23.
More information is through
<https://www.troybilt.com/en_US/service-and-parts#diagrams>
and put in your model number (I picked the first choice for the TB4BP
because I don't know your exact model number) and poke around for the
engine parts.
Small engines are just like large engines, but smaller :-). They tend to
be more finicky because there is only one cylinder and if it gets
flakey, there is no one else to take up the slack.
HTH,
Donald.
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On 2020-08-08 9:27 p.m., Scott Hall wrote:
> Update for those of you sadistic-enough to keep reading: the intake
> valve was...loose? Open? The gap was too wide.
>
> The spec is .003 to .006 intake and exhaust - my smallest feeler is
> .006. I adjusted it to be tight on .006.
>
> The hard start is totally fixed. Starts great now.
>
> Still won't accelerate. Opening the throttle bogs it and it'll die if
> you don't let off. Curing the starting issue seems to have thrown the
> bogging issue into starker relief.
>
> Exhaust can is clear. Gas is new. Air filter is clean and freshly oiled
> and removing it entirely changes nothing.
>
> I am unfamiliar with valves making something not run--my experience is
> either on Ford V-8s or a Triumph 1147 I-4, or Honda or Kawasaki SS
> motorcycle engines, none of which ever had issues with the valves. This
> thing's valves are literally just adjusted with a 5/16" nut--there's no
> locking nut. Is it possible that making the intake or exhaust valve
> tighter or looser could cause something like this? Like should I shoot
> for one end of the spec of another?
>
> Last thing left would be the coil like Tom suggested. There's no mention
> of it in the owners manual and I don't see it in a parts search so far,
> but I started with Amazon.
>
> Seriously. I have built--from rusty blocks--a Ford 289 and 390. A
> Triumph 1147 that came in several Tupperware bins. More rebuilds of
> CBR600 and ZX750 engines than I like to think about.
>
> A leaf blower engine is threatening to best me. I want to back over it
> with the truck just to make it disappear. I think I'm looking for moral
> support here.
>
> Worn cylinder or piston? Bad valve entirely? I could dig out a
> compression tester, but there's no spec for it in the manual anyway. I'm
> kinda at a loss here.
>
> On Thu, Aug 6, 2020 at 7:40 PM Tom Coradeschi <tjcora at icloud.com
> <mailto:tjcora at icloud.com>> wrote:
>
> I had a leaf blower stop running a few years back due to a bad
> ignition coil. Have you verified you’ve got spark? I don’t see that
> specifically mentioned (yes, you did mention the spark plug)
>
> —
> Tom Coradeschi
> tjcora at icloud.com <mailto:tjcora at icloud.com>
>
>
> > On 05 Aug 2020, at 5:09 PM, Scott Hall
> <scott.hall.personal at gmail.com
> <mailto:scott.hall.personal at gmail.com>> wrote:
> >
> > The carb is getting fuel. I can see it in the fuel lines and it
> pumps using the primer bulb.
> >
> > The symptoms are identical with the old and new carb. I can't see
> the end of the fuel line but the only remaining fuel issue could be
> that the new fuel filter (a pumice stone-like thing on the end of
> the fuel line) could be restrictive. Working against that theory is
> that it did the same thing with the old fuel filter.
> >
> > I don't think the problem is the fuel system. The problem
> is...what's left? I swapped the spark plug just to do it.
> >
> > It's a four-cycle engine. Might the valves (like the intake and
> exhaust valves in the head) come out of adjustment? This condition
> has been developing over more than a year...perhaps the valves are
> slowly coming out of adjustment?
> >
> > I don't know what conditions un-adjusted valves cause. I can't
> think of what else it could be.
> >
> > On Wed, Aug 5, 2020 at 3:23 PM <alfuller194 at gmail.com
> <mailto:alfuller194 at gmail.com>> wrote:
> > Can you confirm whether it is actually getting fuel to the carb?
> Try starting it with ether/carb cleaner/gasoline directly to the carb?
> >
> >
> >
> > ----------------
> >
> > All the best,
> >
> >
> >
> > Al Fuller
> >
> >
> >
> > From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
> <mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net>> On Behalf Of Scott Hall
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 5, 2020 4:06 PM
> > To: Shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> > Subject: [Shop-talk] M*th%&$#c<ing small engines d*mn again
> >
> >
> >
> > Troy Bilt four-stroke backpack leaf blower.
> >
> >
> >
> > Replaced the carb and plug.
> >
> >
> >
> > No change in symptoms: hard start, choke useless, engine bogs on
> application of throttle.
> >
> >
> >
> > That sounds like fuel/air to me. That's the carb. The carb and
> plug are brand new. The old carb and plug look fine and it's doing
> the same thing. The carb isn't the problem.
> >
> >
> >
> > I am literally out of ideas. Any idea what to look at next before
> I just toss it?
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks and (*&^*&%&#()_#@&*$&#^&^%.
> >
> >
> >
> > Scott
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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