[Shop-talk] Annealing Copper bars

[old dirtbeard]

I sort of like your idea about the self-cleaning oven cycle. It would be
very even heat, the right temperature, should not hurt the oven.

Maybe just wait to do it while the wife is away for an hour or so...  :-)

best,

doug

On Sat, Aug 8, 2020 at 5:37 AM Pat Horne <patintexas at icloud.com> wrote:

> Pay a local shop with an oxy/acetylene rig to heat them? Muffler shop,
> body shop, A/C contractor? A/C contractor sometimes use air/acetylene. Will
> that get hot enough?
>
> Peace,
> Pat
>
> Pat Horne
> We support Habitat for Humanity
>
>
> On Aug 7, 2020, at 11:25 PM, Jack Brooks <JIBrooks at live.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> I have fabricated a number of 1/8 and 3/16th inch thick busbars for an
> Van RV build electrical system which I am assembling in my shop.  The
> busbars are already bent to shape, but I’d like to anneal them, because the
> copper was purchased in the  “Half-Hard” state and making them “Dead-Soft”
> will insure that they lay completely flat to maximize the conductivity when
> I final assemble the system.
>
>
>
> I usually anneal copper by getting it hot enough to glow with a propane
> torch and then allow it to cool.  With the mass of these busbars, I can’t
> get them up to a temperature to where they glow with propane.  An
> Oxy/Acetylene torch would work, but I don’t have one.  MAPP gas is hotter,
> but I don’t think it’s a lot hotter.
>
>
>
> I am considering running them through the cleaning cycle in the
> self-cleaning over, as a self-cleaning oven will typically runs up to
> around 900°F.  Copper needs 700-1,200°F to anneal, so it should be fine.
>
>
>
> I’d prefer almost any other solution.  Thoughts?  The last time I used our
> oven for a shop project, it was to cure the paint on the jugs (cylinders)
> of my ’74 Norton motorcycle.  Mrs. Jack was not happy.  Copper bars should
> be fine as they won’t stink up the house.
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
>
>
> Jack
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