[Shop-talk] Footings and piers for decks

Pat Horne patintexas at icloud.com
Wed Apr 22 14:26:17 MDT 2020 

I’ll do a drawing. Basically, instead of fixed stringers on the sides of the stairs, there is a piece on angle iron connecting the front edge of all the stair treads & another piece of angle connecting all the rear edges of the treads. These connections are not solid, but allow the treads to rotate. The upper ends of the angles are likewise connected to a fixed landing extension of the upper deck. They are attached @ the same distance as the depth of the treads. In my case there are wheels that allow the bottom of the stairs to move around. 

Picture to follow. 

Pat Horne 
We support Habitat for Humanity


> On Apr 22, 2020, at 3:16 PM, Jim Franklin via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 

The image came through but I couldn't get enough from it to understand how they work. I'd be interested in the design from an intellectual standpoint but having done a bit of reading on this now, it seems the amount of rise from frost would cause minimal change in angle of the treads (code allows for 1/4" per foot) and that using a regular wood stringer, attached by a hinge at the top, would be well within that threshold.

thanks,
jim

> On Apr 22, 2020, at 4:03 PM, Pat Horne <patintexas at icloud.com> wrote:
> 
> Jim, I haves design that will work for your steps. I have a set of stairs that came from a local airport. They are the stairs that go from the jet way, right at the plane to the tarmac. They have to allow for different height planes while keeping the stair treads level. I’ll draw up a rough drawing for you if you like. I’ll also attach a photo to this email but I think it will be stripped. 
> 
> Peace,
> Pat
> 
> <image0.jpeg>
> 
> Pat Horne 
> We support Habitat for Humanity
> 
> 
>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 2:46 PM, Jim Franklin via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
> 
> I found a "loophole" in the code. If the deck is freestanding and under 30" high, it doesn't need to be at the frost line. I found these anchored surface footings that might do quite well:
> 
> https://shop.titanbuildingproducts.com/deck-foot.php
> 
> The only issue is that the new deck with be 4 steps down from the one anchored to the house, so the connection between the two needs to be fluid, which means one end of the stairs needs to float. I'm trying to come up with a design where the risers adjust as the lower deck rises and falls with frost, and the riser heights stay equidistant from each other, but I'm not getting there. Maybe I build a ramp instead...
> 
> jim
> 
> 
> 
>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 12:13 AM, Brian Kemp <bk13 at earthlink.net> wrote:
>> 
>> Try a search for "concrete trailer" or call some local concrete companies.  If you can drive a pickup or SUV near the footings, one of these might be the way to go.  An explanation is at https://www.sepulveda.com/product_families/concrete_to_go/concrete_to_go.php 
>> 
>> Brian
>> -----Original Message----- 
>> From: Jim Franklin via Shop-talk 
>> Sent: Apr 16, 2020 7:44 PM 
>> To: PJ McGarvey 
>> Cc: Shop-talk 
>> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Footings and piers for decks 
>> 
>> Yep, 18" is spot on per the beam and joist spacing, but the pre-cast footer only comes in 22". 
>> 
>> Getting the concrete to the location will be difficult. The house is up a 100' inclined driveway that won't support a full sized truck, and the then another 100' around back to the site. Even a pumper would need a lot of hose. Are there smaller/lighter site-mix trucks now? I suppose they could pump it to the top of the driveway and wheelbarrow it around back...
>> 
>>> On Apr 16, 2020, at 10:15 PM, PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I doubt you'll need more than 18" diameter footings for a deck. 
>>> 
>>> In any case, I would pay a bit more for concrete delivery. I did this in November for a 16'x16' screened porch I'm almost finished with. For that diameter and depth, that's alot of concrete to mix correctly. In an hour you can have it delivered, poured, and save alot of hassle. 
>>> 
>>> From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Pat Horne via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2020 7:14 PM
>>> To: Jim Franklin <jamesf at groupwbench.org>
>>> Cc: Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
>>> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Footings and piers for decks
>>>  
>>> 24” diameter hole is pretty large. I had 24” piers drilled by a company. They brought a large drill truck. I had 3 piers drilled 25’ deep, including bell bottoms. Cost was $800. Only reason I brought this up is it might not be that much over the cost of the skid steer to have someone else drill them. 
>>> 
>>> Peace,
>>> Pat
>>> 
>>> Pat Horne 
>>> We support Habitat for Humanity
>>> 
>>> 
>>> > On Apr 16, 2020, at 1:13 PM, Jim Franklin via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>> > 
>>> 
>>> Having decided it's better to build a nice ornate deck out of PT than a small simple deck of of fancy materials, I'm looking at the foundation. Frost line here is 48" and I need 18" footings. I have found 3 options and I'm wondering if I missed anything:
>>> 
>>> 1. Traditional concrete with forms and sonotubes
>>> 2. Pre-cast footings (22", 100 lbs)  and stackable piers (EZ-Tube)
>>> 3. Helical piles 
>>> 
>>> I haven't heard back from the town on that last one and they're the priciest at $275 per. The pre-cast are $150 per. Concrete will require hauling about 45,000 bags into the backyard. 
>>> 
>>> I'm leaning towards #2 . I don't own any yard equipment but I can rent a skid steer with auger, though not a 24" auger I don't think.
>>> 
>>> thanks,
>>> jim
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