From jamesf at groupwbench.org Thu Sep 5 11:51:46 2019 From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (jamesf at groupwbench.org) Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2019 13:51:46 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Riding mower plus? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I have about 1/4 acre of land to take care of. 2/3 is mowable green stuff, 1/3 is rocks. Rather than give $4500 to a landscaper to remove the rocks and plant grass I figured I could buy a machine and DIY it and come out with something nicer. I need to rake the rocks out of the subsoil that was replaced when I had the sewer pipe put in. This is New England so there are a lot of rocks but none bigger than my head. I need to spread topsoil or manure over that area.? I need to dig a few 8" x 48" holes for deck expansion footings.? I need to mow the grass. Is there a machine that will do all this? I can find a riding mower, or a big PTO tractor, but it seems I need something in the middle. Riding mower with rake and then just rent the hole auger? Does such a machine exist? thanks, jim From jdinnis at gmail.com Thu Sep 5 11:55:59 2019 From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis) Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2019 12:55:59 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Riding mower plus? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: For that size yard, you really don't want a cat 1 tractor long term. You be better off buying a small 0-trurn to mow with then renting whatever other equipment you need when you need it. On Thu, Sep 5, 2019 at 12:52 PM jamesf--- via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > I have about 1/4 acre of land to take care of. 2/3 is mowable green > stuff, 1/3 is rocks. Rather than give $4500 to a landscaper to remove > the rocks and plant grass I figured I could buy a machine and DIY it and > come out with something nicer. > > I need to rake the rocks out of the subsoil that was replaced when I had > the sewer pipe put in. This is New England so there are a lot of rocks > but none bigger than my head. > > I need to spread topsoil or manure over that area. > > I need to dig a few 8" x 48" holes for deck expansion footings. > > I need to mow the grass. > > Is there a machine that will do all this? I can find a riding mower, or > a big PTO tractor, but it seems I need something in the middle. Riding > mower with rake and then just rent the hole auger? Does such a machine > exist? > > thanks, > jim > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com > > -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From patintexas at icloud.com Thu Sep 5 11:58:18 2019 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2019 12:58:18 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Riding mower plus? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0F7EB2F8-4ED1-4DA4-AAC8-65EE408D84F5@icloud.com> Vermeer makes a rock picker & I suspect others do too. You may be able to find someone who has one who you could hire. Their pretty expensive. A neighbor had one & it worked quite well. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Sep 5, 2019, at 12:51 PM, jamesf--- via Shop-talk wrote: I have about 1/4 acre of land to take care of. 2/3 is mowable green stuff, 1/3 is rocks. Rather than give $4500 to a landscaper to remove the rocks and plant grass I figured I could buy a machine and DIY it and come out with something nicer. I need to rake the rocks out of the subsoil that was replaced when I had the sewer pipe put in. This is New England so there are a lot of rocks but none bigger than my head. I need to spread topsoil or manure over that area. I need to dig a few 8" x 48" holes for deck expansion footings. I need to mow the grass. Is there a machine that will do all this? I can find a riding mower, or a big PTO tractor, but it seems I need something in the middle. Riding mower with rake and then just rent the hole auger? Does such a machine exist? thanks, jim _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com From marka at maracing.com Thu Sep 5 15:16:38 2019 From: marka at maracing.com (Mark Andy) Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2019 17:16:38 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Riding mower plus? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Howdy, 1/4 acre is pretty darned small. Like "Use a self propelled push mower" small. That said, if you _really_ want a machine to do it all, that sounds pretty ideal for a sub-compact tractor. You'll need to bring a bunch more money to buy one though. I think new name brand with a loader and a belly mower will be well over $10k. Used is going to vary of course, but a quick glance at ebay is showing $9k for something that looks reasonable. A sub compact tractor also isn't nearly as good a mower as a zero turn. Of course, the front loader on the tractor works a lot better than the non-existent one on the zero turn. :) If it were me, I'd probably pay the landscaper and get a push mower. But I'd also check out sub compacts, just because. :) Mark On Thu, Sep 5, 2019 at 1:52 PM jamesf--- via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > I have about 1/4 acre of land to take care of. 2/3 is mowable green > stuff, 1/3 is rocks. Rather than give $4500 to a landscaper to remove > the rocks and plant grass I figured I could buy a machine and DIY it and > come out with something nicer. > > I need to rake the rocks out of the subsoil that was replaced when I had > the sewer pipe put in. This is New England so there are a lot of rocks > but none bigger than my head. > > I need to spread topsoil or manure over that area. > > I need to dig a few 8" x 48" holes for deck expansion footings. > > I need to mow the grass. > > Is there a machine that will do all this? I can find a riding mower, or > a big PTO tractor, but it seems I need something in the middle. Riding > mower with rake and then just rent the hole auger? Does such a machine > exist? > > thanks, > jim > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/marka at maracing.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pj_thomas at comcast.net Fri Sep 6 09:36:16 2019 From: pj_thomas at comcast.net (Peter J. Thomas) Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2019 11:36:16 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Riding mower plus? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5873e621-e9f0-f87e-39f0-4a5250817e88@comcast.net> I'm from New England also; I know rocks.? For 1/3 of 1/4 acre, 1/12 of an acre, 3000 square feet, I'd rent a roto-tiller for the weekend.? Turn the area and pick out the rocks, raking out the small stuff.? Then turn in the manure/soil.? Then, like others have said, push mower are cheap and engines are easy to replace.? Mine is on it's 4th engine, because of New England rocks. On 9/5/2019 1:51 PM, jamesf--- via Shop-talk wrote: > I have about 1/4 acre of land to take care of. 2/3 is mowable green > stuff, 1/3 is rocks. Rather than give $4500 to a landscaper to remove > the rocks and plant grass I figured I could buy a machine and DIY it > and come out with something nicer. > > I need to rake the rocks out of the subsoil that was replaced when I > had the sewer pipe put in. This is New England so there are a lot of > rocks but none bigger than my head. > > I need to spread topsoil or manure over that area. > > I need to dig a few 8" x 48" holes for deck expansion footings. > > I need to mow the grass. > > Is there a machine that will do all this? I can find a riding mower, > or a big PTO tractor, but it seems I need something in the middle. > Riding mower with rake and then just rent the hole auger? Does such a > machine exist? > > thanks, > jim > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_thomas at comcast.net > From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Fri Sep 6 20:06:00 2019 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2019 02:06:00 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Riding mower plus? In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Like others have said 1/4 is too small to need a riding lawn mower. We have a older Cub Cadet and a johnnybucket. It is the great for landscaping jobs. http://www.johnnyproducts.com/J_Bucket_HTMs/JBpage_Jr_Simplicity.htm [http://www.johnnyproducts.com/images/Simplicity%20JBJr/S%20front%20scoope.jpg1zB] Johnny Bucket Jr. Page Features & Benefits: Installs in Minutes installs in minutes Just remove the deck and attach it to the tractor's front hitch points, pin the lifting rod and you're ready to go hauling and just minutes back to mowing.. Down Force Pressure The JBJr has just as much down force pressure as it has lift capacity. It works great for scraping and back dragging. www.johnnyproducts.com Rich White Central, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF###L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! ________________________________ From: Shop-talk on behalf of jamesf--- via Shop-talk Sent: Thursday, September 5, 2019 12:51 PM To: shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: [Shop-talk] Riding mower plus? I have about 1/4 acre of land to take care of. 2/3 is mowable green stuff, 1/3 is rocks. Rather than give $4500 to a landscaper to remove the rocks and plant grass I figured I could buy a machine and DIY it and come out with something nicer. I need to rake the rocks out of the subsoil that was replaced when I had the sewer pipe put in. This is New England so there are a lot of rocks but none bigger than my head. I need to spread topsoil or manure over that area. I need to dig a few 8" x 48" holes for deck expansion footings. I need to mow the grass. Is there a machine that will do all this? I can find a riding mower, or a big PTO tractor, but it seems I need something in the middle. Riding mower with rake and then just rent the hole auger? Does such a machine exist? thanks, jim _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: https://eur03.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=02%7C01%7C%7C7a47afd5a2fe4f4a85c308d73229c839%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637033027339624269&sdata=2AbTUOa709aJxRaLA96OEgccm%2Bz72pQ7fBsem7eFFFg%3D&reserved=0 Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: https://eur03.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fshop-talk&data=02%7C01%7C%7C7a47afd5a2fe4f4a85c308d73229c839%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637033027339624269&sdata=yeHL%2Bo%2BvU1HIjVoAvHnVe0Pexw5YS4KJJTT2NttCp4M%3D&reserved=0 https://eur03.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive&data=02%7C01%7C%7C7a47afd5a2fe4f4a85c308d73229c839%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637033027339624269&sdata=EV%2Bi1zi3bylXBseVhM7ePdG%2FZETojbky4qTXO5L0X0E%3D&reserved=0 Unsubscribe/Manage: https://eur03.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Foptions%2Fshop-talk%2Frlwhitetr3b%40hotmail.com&data=02%7C01%7C%7C7a47afd5a2fe4f4a85c308d73229c839%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637033027339624269&sdata=kJn5Hk%2BVEmdz60k54y0HvJ0UjrWNU%2Fg%2FIW7fyawyer8%3D&reserved=0 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jniolon at att.net Mon Sep 9 20:39:33 2019 From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon) Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2019 21:39:33 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] alternate use for PEX fittings Message-ID: <2CE3A839CCA4477E9D4B9DA41321E667@Johnsdesktop> I'm trying to install heater lines to my vintage air a/c unit in my truck project. I'm hampered by access because I filled in the ash tray and the glove box. And my bulkhead plate and fittings are not where vintage air routes their stuff so their pre-bent tubes don't go where I need them to. First I tried 5/8" hose and it was too thick to get thru the space I have... then 1/2 tube with the same result.. Last try was 1/2" SS tubing bent in desired shape with tubing on each end to attaching fittings, which is gonna work with one exception... I'm having to reduce from 5/8" tube to 1/2" and add an adapter. That's not a problem but all the clamping is the problem. Typical screw clamps take up a lot of room and are hindering my route. I?m having to go around the end of the a/c unit next to the kick panel and it's tight over there. There is no room for the clamps where I need them. I started researching other clamping solutions and came up with two ideas.. #1 is pex type clamps... either single or double crimp... they work for plumbing at higher pressure than radiator hose and I've used them for air lines with good success.. #2 option is using wire clamps from a clamptite tool. this tool is easy to fabricate (and not spend 60 bucks) and from what I've seen at the car shows they do make a nice tight secure clamp on the hoses... using stainless steel wire .062 .. so a question for the plumbers/pipefitters that have worked with PEX... if I use standard barbed fittings do you think the Pex crimp type clamps will hold and be leak proof... this will be in an non-accessible place when complete so I?m looking for foolproof. I?m looking at the Oeitker clamps since they seem more robust than the standard single crimp Home Depot variety oetiker link the other option is the Crimptite wire clamps clamp tite example these will also clamp down tightly as you can see by the examples online. And, using SS wire should make it even better.... experience ?? opinion ?? guesses ?? all welcome thanks john https://jniolon.classicpickup.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From maynerdfamily at msn.com Tue Sep 10 07:31:41 2019 From: maynerdfamily at msn.com (Brian and Wendy) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 13:31:41 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] alternate use for PEX fittings In-Reply-To: <2CE3A839CCA4477E9D4B9DA41321E667@Johnsdesktop> References: <2CE3A839CCA4477E9D4B9DA41321E667@Johnsdesktop> Message-ID: Another option would be the heat shrink hose clamp such as a Gates Powergrip https://www.gates.com/us/en/fluid-power/engine-hose/hose-clamps-amp-couplings/gates-powergrip-sb-clamp/p/7405-000000-000000 Summit and Jegs both have this style of clamp in a variety of sizes. Brian Warrick Nampa, ID ________________________________ From: Shop-talk on behalf of john niolon via Shop-talk Sent: Monday, September 9, 2019 8:39 PM To: shop-talk Subject: [Shop-talk] alternate use for PEX fittings I'm trying to install heater lines to my vintage air a/c unit in my truck project. I'm hampered by access because I filled in the ash tray and the glove box. And my bulkhead plate and fittings are not where vintage air routes their stuff so their pre-bent tubes don't go where I need them to. First I tried 5/8" hose and it was too thick to get thru the space I have... then 1/2 tube with the same result.. Last try was 1/2" SS tubing bent in desired shape with tubing on each end to attaching fittings, which is gonna work with one exception... I'm having to reduce from 5/8" tube to 1/2" and add an adapter. That's not a problem but all the clamping is the problem. Typical screw clamps take up a lot of room and are hindering my route. I?m having to go around the end of the a/c unit next to the kick panel and it's tight over there. There is no room for the clamps where I need them. I started researching other clamping solutions and came up with two ideas.. #1 is pex type clamps... either single or double crimp... they work for plumbing at higher pressure than radiator hose and I've used them for air lines with good success.. #2 option is using wire clamps from a clamptite tool. this tool is easy to fabricate (and not spend 60 bucks) and from what I've seen at the car shows they do make a nice tight secure clamp on the hoses... using stainless steel wire .062 .. so a question for the plumbers/pipefitters that have worked with PEX... if I use standard barbed fittings do you think the Pex crimp type clamps will hold and be leak proof... this will be in an non-accessible place when complete so I?m looking for foolproof. I?m looking at the Oeitker clamps since they seem more robust than the standard single crimp Home Depot variety oetiker link the other option is the Crimptite wire clamps clamp tite example these will also clamp down tightly as you can see by the examples online. And, using SS wire should make it even better.... experience ?? opinion ?? guesses ?? all welcome thanks john https://jniolon.classicpickup.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ejrussell at mebtel.net Tue Sep 10 08:07:49 2019 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (ERIC RUSSELL) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 10:07:49 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] alternate use for PEX fittings In-Reply-To: References: <2CE3A839CCA4477E9D4B9DA41321E667@Johnsdesktop> Message-ID: <134780699.44955280.1568124469664.JavaMail.zimbra@mebtel.net> All I can offer are guesses. Would a place that makes hydraulic hoses be able to supply you with an alternative? Maybe they have reducing fittings? And once crimped together it should make a long-life connection. Perhaps they could even fabricate a SS or Al tube bent to the desired configuration with appropriate fittings on each end? Eric RussellMebane, NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org Tue Sep 10 08:18:15 2019 From: mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org (Jimmie Mayfield) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 10:18:15 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] alternate use for PEX fittings In-Reply-To: References: <2CE3A839CCA4477E9D4B9DA41321E667@Johnsdesktop> Message-ID: <5fd9947b-fc7f-b85c-465a-1c99e6b85536@sackheads.org> I was thinking the same.? Heat-shrink hose clamps should do the job nice and compact. On 9/10/19 9:31 AM, Brian and Wendy via Shop-talk wrote: > Another option would be the heat shrink hose clamp such as a Gates > Powergrip > > https://www.gates.com/us/en/fluid-power/engine-hose/hose-clamps-amp-couplings/gates-powergrip-sb-clamp/p/7405-000000-000000 > > Summit and Jegs both have this style of clamp in a variety of sizes. > > Brian Warrick > Nampa, ID > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pj_thomas at comcast.net Tue Sep 10 09:09:47 2019 From: pj_thomas at comcast.net (Peter J. Thomas) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 11:09:47 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] alternate use for PEX fittings In-Reply-To: <2CE3A839CCA4477E9D4B9DA41321E667@Johnsdesktop> References: <2CE3A839CCA4477E9D4B9DA41321E667@Johnsdesktop> Message-ID: <03eefc3d-9686-0081-956a-e6d7d53d88d3@comcast.net> Just my limited experience with replumbing a house with PEX using the SS band clamps.? They are fine until you start pulling and flexing on the tubes.? They can leak but will seal up once left alone.? This might be a problem in a truck.? The issue isn't the bands the issue is the PEX.? The clamps are quite similar to crimped clamps used on modern cars. On 9/9/2019 10:39 PM, john niolon via Shop-talk wrote: > > #1 is pex type clamps... either single or double crimp... they work > for plumbing at higher pressure than radiator hose and I've used them > for air lines with good success.. > #2 option is using wire clamps from a clamptite tool. this tool is > easy to fabricate (and not spend 60 bucks) and from what I've seen at > the car shows they do make a nice tight secure clamp on the hoses... > using stainless steel wire .062 .. > so a question for the plumbers/pipefitters that have worked with > PEX... if I use standard barbed fittings do you think the Pex crimp > type clamps will hold and be leak proof... this will be in an > non-accessible place when complete so I?m looking for foolproof. > I?m looking at the Oeitker clamps since they seem more robust than the > standard single crimp Home Depot variety > oetiker link > > the other option is the Crimptite wire clamps > clamp tite example > > these will also clamp down tightly as you can see by the examples > online. And, using SS wire should make it even better.... > experience ?? opinion ?? guesses ?? all welcome > thanks > john > > > https://jniolon.classicpickup.com/ > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_thomas at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jem at milleredp.com Tue Sep 10 09:12:26 2019 From: jem at milleredp.com (John Miller) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 08:12:26 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] alternate use for PEX fittings In-Reply-To: <2CE3A839CCA4477E9D4B9DA41321E667@Johnsdesktop> References: <2CE3A839CCA4477E9D4B9DA41321E667@Johnsdesktop> Message-ID: <6e67d692-8897-ea8b-84cb-445631306a02@milleredp.com> > which is gonna work with one exception... I'm having to reduce from 5/8" > tube to 1/2" and add an adapter. Any way you could braze/solder/TIG as appropriate the reducer to the 5/8in outlet to cut down on the number of hoses/tubes/clamped joints? > I?m looking at the Oeitker clamps since they seem more robust than the > standard single crimp Home Depot variety I use Oetiker clamps all over the place on everything that doesn't need to be readily separable. I use them on air hoses, hell I use them on backyard garden hoses. On 40+PSI EFI systems I generally use two per connection just for the hell of it. Use where possible the smooth-band type with the tongue inside that fully surrounds the tube. The one downside of Oetikers is that if you use them regularly you have a whole drawer of little bins full of different sizes because the clamping range for each size is not very broad. Oh, and get some real clamping pliers... John. From jem at milleredp.com Tue Sep 10 09:42:45 2019 From: jem at milleredp.com (John Miller) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 08:42:45 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] alternate use for PEX fittings In-Reply-To: <6e67d692-8897-ea8b-84cb-445631306a02@milleredp.com> References: <2CE3A839CCA4477E9D4B9DA41321E667@Johnsdesktop> <6e67d692-8897-ea8b-84cb-445631306a02@milleredp.com> Message-ID: On 9/10/2019 8:12 AM, John Miller via Shop-talk wrote: >> which is gonna work with one exception... I'm having to reduce from >> 5/8" tube to 1/2" and add an adapter. > > Any way you could braze/solder/TIG as appropriate the reducer to the > 5/8in outlet to cut down on the number of hoses/tubes/clamped joints? I will note that on my '65 Mustang with later Fox 5.0 conversion and Vintage Air installation (intended for a carbed setup), I retained the Fox-style hard-line (copper alloy) heater-water manifold, trimmed down the back end of the outlet tube, wire brushed the crap out of the inside of the tube, pressed the Vintage Air (Chevy-style) heater valve into the tube, rotated it so that the actuator lever and cable cleared everything (not by too much) then flowed some Metalset A4 epoxy heated to warm-cheap-pancake-syrup consistency into the assembly behind the valve's barb. This took about six inches I didn't have off the length of the whole assembly, from what it'd have been with hose segments holding the bits together. So far so good, we'll see how it holds up over time. John. From jniolon at att.net Tue Sep 10 11:39:12 2019 From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 12:39:12 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] alternate use for PEX fittings In-Reply-To: <5fd9947b-fc7f-b85c-465a-1c99e6b85536@sackheads.org> References: <2CE3A839CCA4477E9D4B9DA41321E667@Johnsdesktop> <5fd9947b-fc7f-b85c-465a-1c99e6b85536@sackheads.org> Message-ID: <9651DC78A76B467BA4F04636A6C11699@Johnsdesktop> thanks for all the suggestions and after talking to the Gates tech guy and the guy at jegs.com I?ve ordered a couple of necessary sizes... more to come j From: Jimmie Mayfield via Shop-talk Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2019 9:18 AM To: shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] alternate use for PEX fittings I was thinking the same. Heat-shrink hose clamps should do the job nice and compact. On 9/10/19 9:31 AM, Brian and Wendy via Shop-talk wrote: Another option would be the heat shrink hose clamp such as a Gates Powergrip https://www.gates.com/us/en/fluid-power/engine-hose/hose-clamps-amp-couplings/gates-powergrip-sb-clamp/p/7405-000000-000000 Summit and Jegs both have this style of clamp in a variety of sizes. Brian Warrick Nampa, ID ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jniolon at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mbarre at juno.com Tue Sep 10 12:23:07 2019 From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 18:23:07 GMT Subject: [Shop-talk] Tool Question Message-ID: <20190910.142307.12658.0@webmail11.vgs.untd.com> I have a seized bolt I am trying to loosen without breaking and it is in a hard to reach location.I can't get a socket on it and the 12 point box wrench I am using is slipping off.I am having trouble locating a 6 point wrench (10mm by the way). QUESTION:What is your experience with the roller based wrenches that are marketed as "no slip" and well suited to partially rounded fasteners? TIA! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jdinnis at gmail.com Tue Sep 10 13:28:05 2019 From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 14:28:05 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Tool Question In-Reply-To: <20190910.142307.12658.0@webmail11.vgs.untd.com> References: <20190910.142307.12658.0@webmail11.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: I have not had much success with the "no-slip" wrenches. I found that if you have 2 good corners, they sometimes work, but I also broke one trying to free a stuck bolt. If you are able to get a socket on it, but don't have room for the ratchet, try using a wrench adapter. I have had much success using these in tight spots. I can't find an example online but I bought a set are Sears many years ago. Basically just t little adapter that goes in the drive end of the socket in place of a ratchet or breaker bar. Is has a hex head that is very thin that allows you to get on it with a wrench. Or two. Or a 4' length of pipe over the handle of a wrench. On Tue, Sep 10, 2019 at 1:25 PM Matt via Shop-talk wrote: > I have a seized bolt I am trying to loosen without breaking and it is in a > hard to reach location. > I can't get a socket on it and the 12 point box wrench I am using is > slipping off. > I am having trouble locating a 6 point wrench (10mm by the way). > > QUESTION: > What is your experience with the roller based wrenches that are marketed > as "no slip" and well suited to partially rounded fasteners? > > TIA! > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com > > -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com Tue Sep 10 14:24:55 2019 From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott Hall) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 13:24:55 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Tool Question In-Reply-To: References: <20190910.142307.12658.0@webmail11.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: FWIW, I have 6-point metric wrenches from both MAC and MATCO. So they exist, if you can't find anything else. Hell I'll send you one of mine if you send it back. On Tue, Sep 10, 2019, 12:28 PM John Innis via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > I have not had much success with the "no-slip" wrenches. I found that if > you have 2 good corners, they sometimes work, but I also broke one trying > to free a stuck bolt. > If you are able to get a socket on it, but don't have room for the > ratchet, try using a wrench adapter. I have had much success using these > in tight spots. I can't find an example online but I bought a set are > Sears many years ago. Basically just t little adapter that goes in the > drive end of the socket in place of a ratchet or breaker bar. Is has a hex > head that is very thin that allows you to get on it with a wrench. Or > two. Or a 4' length of pipe over the handle of a wrench. > > On Tue, Sep 10, 2019 at 1:25 PM Matt via Shop-talk < > shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> I have a seized bolt I am trying to loosen without breaking and it is in >> a hard to reach location. >> I can't get a socket on it and the 12 point box wrench I am using is >> slipping off. >> I am having trouble locating a 6 point wrench (10mm by the way). >> >> QUESTION: >> What is your experience with the roller based wrenches that are marketed >> as "no slip" and well suited to partially rounded fasteners? >> >> TIA! >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com >> >> > > -- > ================================= > = Never offend people with style when you = > = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = > ================================= > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/scott.hall.personal at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jem at milleredp.com Tue Sep 10 14:41:35 2019 From: jem at milleredp.com (John Miller) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 13:41:35 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Tool Question In-Reply-To: References: <20190910.142307.12658.0@webmail11.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <456ed54a-2d64-538d-dca9-02df1ef112e3@milleredp.com> On 9/10/2019 1:24 PM, Scott Hall via Shop-talk wrote: > FWIW, I have 6-point metric wrenches from both MAC and MATCO. So they > exist, if you can't find anything else. Yeah, 6-point 10mm wrenches exist and can be found, or can you just get a pair of vise-grips on the damn thing? John. From neiljsherry at talktalk.net Tue Sep 10 15:14:50 2019 From: neiljsherry at talktalk.net (Neil Sherry) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 21:14:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] Tool Question In-Reply-To: <20190910.142307.12658.0@webmail11.vgs.untd.com> References: <20190910.142307.12658.0@webmail11.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: Rather than using brute force, get some heat on it. If has already rounded, it's reluctant to move, so deal with that first and then whatever you use will have a fighting chance. Neil Sent from Outlook for Android On Tue, Sep 10, 2019 at 7:25 PM +0100, "Matt via Shop-talk" wrote: I have a seized bolt I am trying to loosen without breaking and it is in a hard to reach location. I can't get a socket on it and the 12 point box wrench I am using is slipping off. I am having trouble locating a 6 point wrench? (10mm by the way). ? QUESTION: What is your experience with the roller based wrenches that are marketed as "no slip" and well suited to partially rounded fasteners? ? TIA! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jamesf at groupwbench.org Tue Sep 10 17:00:02 2019 From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 19:00:02 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Tool Question In-Reply-To: <20190910.142307.12658.0@webmail11.vgs.untd.com> References: <20190910.142307.12658.0@webmail11.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <98EF4DCF-D5DC-4D92-92BE-9E9BBB9C388F@groupwbench.org> > On Sep 10, 2019, at 2:23 PM, Matt via Shop-talk wrote: > > I have a seized bolt I am trying to loosen without breaking and it is in a hard to reach location. > I can't get a socket on it and the 12 point box wrench I am using is slipping off. > I am having trouble locating a 6 point wrench (10mm by the way). > If nothing else works, a very good mechanic friend just goes straight for the welder. Welds on a large, easy to reach bolt and (maybe with heat and penetrating fluid) has success. jim -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: smime.p7s Type: application/pkcs7-signature Size: 1386 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Sep 10 19:33:44 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 18:33:44 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Tool Question In-Reply-To: <20190910.142307.12658.0@webmail11.vgs.untd.com> References: <20190910.142307.12658.0@webmail11.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: Needle-nose Vice Grips have saved my butt a few times. Bob On 9/10/2019 11:23 AM, Matt via Shop-talk wrote: > I have a seized bolt I am trying to loosen without breaking and it is > in a hard to reach location. > I can't get a socket on it and the 12 point box wrench I am using is > slipping off. > I am having trouble locating a 6 point wrench? (10mm by the way). > QUESTION: > What is your experience with the roller based wrenches that are > marketed as "no slip" and well suited to partially rounded fasteners? > From bk13 at earthlink.net Tue Sep 10 22:32:55 2019 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 21:32:55 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Tool Question In-Reply-To: References: <20190910.142307.12658.0@webmail11.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: Look for a flare nut wrench for the 6-point wrench.? Sample: https://www.harborfreight.com/5-pc-metric-double-end-flare-nut-wrench-set-61357.html Add some penetrating oil and tap it with a hammer a few times to help the oil soak in. Brian > On Tue, Sep 10, 2019 at 1:25 PM Matt via Shop-talk > > wrote: > > I have a seized bolt I am trying to loosen without breaking and it > is in a hard to reach location. > I can't get a socket on it and the 12 point box wrench I am using > is slipping off. > I am having trouble locating a 6 point wrench? (10mm by the way). > QUESTION: > What is your experience with the roller based wrenches that are > marketed as "no slip" and well suited to partially rounded fasteners? > TIA! > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com > > > > -- > ================================= > = Never offend people with style when you?? = > = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown? = > ================================= > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From neiljsherry at talktalk.net Wed Sep 11 00:25:30 2019 From: neiljsherry at talktalk.net (Neil Sherry) Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2019 06:25:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] Tool Question In-Reply-To: <98EF4DCF-D5DC-4D92-92BE-9E9BBB9C388F@groupwbench.org> References: <20190910.142307.12658.0@webmail11.vgs.untd.com> <98EF4DCF-D5DC-4D92-92BE-9E9BBB9C388F@groupwbench.org> Message-ID: The welding itself is useful as a source of heat. Blob of weld from a MIG on top of the bolt - then try the vice grips. Sent from Outlook for Android On Wed, Sep 11, 2019 at 12:01 AM +0100, "Jim Franklin via Shop-talk" wrote: > On Sep 10, 2019, at 2:23 PM, Matt via Shop-talk wrote: > > I have a seized bolt I am trying to loosen without breaking and it is in a hard to reach location. > I can't get a socket on it and the 12 point box wrench I am using is slipping off. > I am having trouble locating a 6 point wrench (10mm by the way). > If nothing else works, a very good mechanic friend just goes straight for the welder. Welds on a large, easy to reach bolt and (maybe with heat and penetrating fluid) has success. jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mbarre at juno.com Wed Sep 11 06:34:37 2019 From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2019 12:34:37 GMT Subject: [Shop-talk] Tool Question - thanks! Message-ID: <20190911.083437.28037.0@webmail06.vgs.untd.com> Thanks for all the good ideas - and especially the loaner offer!6 point wrench is on the way via Amazon. Not sure if it is age or wisdom but I haven't actually damaged this fastener much and am taking my time with both penetrants and heat.Probably the best tip though gos to the socket caps (https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-square-drive-socket-caps-67011.html?_br_psugg_q=socket+cap) I had already ground down a cheap 6 point socket but still can't get a wobble extension on it. The cap may be just the ticket, it may also have to visit the grinder though. I figured a tool problem would get a rise out of the group! Good to hear from you all! Matt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pj_thomas at comcast.net Wed Sep 11 07:11:38 2019 From: pj_thomas at comcast.net (Peter J. Thomas) Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2019 09:11:38 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Tool Question In-Reply-To: <20190910.142307.12658.0@webmail11.vgs.untd.com> References: <20190910.142307.12658.0@webmail11.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <4b350cd5-cc28-ac8e-d769-644aff7e782c@comcast.net> If you haven't rounded the bolt too much with the 12 point and slipping is more because of the awkward location, my favorite trick is putting the wrench on the bolt and lightly tapping the wrench, even a couple tightening taps.? This is a makeshift impact and impact often works better than penetrating oil. On 9/10/2019 2:23 PM, Matt via Shop-talk wrote: > I have a seized bolt I am trying to loosen without breaking and it is > in a hard to reach location. > I can't get a socket on it and the 12 point box wrench I am using is > slipping off. > I am having trouble locating a 6 point wrench? (10mm by the way). > QUESTION: > What is your experience with the roller based wrenches that are > marketed as "no slip" and well suited to partially rounded fasteners? From nogera at icloud.com Thu Sep 12 13:26:16 2019 From: nogera at icloud.com (Robert Nogueirao) Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2019 14:26:16 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Speedometer cable nomenclature Message-ID: <31F341A2-AC4F-4EF0-9258-EF4F3C0BD1DF@icloud.com> Anyone know the name of the part of a old style speedo cable which has the internal threads that screw on to the speedo and output and has knurling so it screws on by hand ? Bob Nogueira From dhlocker at comcast.net Thu Sep 12 19:24:15 2019 From: dhlocker at comcast.net (Donald H Locker) Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2019 21:24:15 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Speedometer cable nomenclature In-Reply-To: <31F341A2-AC4F-4EF0-9258-EF4F3C0BD1DF@icloud.com> References: <31F341A2-AC4F-4EF0-9258-EF4F3C0BD1DF@icloud.com> Message-ID: <4af2ec34-eec2-b0bb-ab52-f84a5d7f952b@comcast.net> ?Coupling nut? I've never thought of it otherwise. Donald. *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue () no proprietary attachments; no html mail /\ On 2019-09-12 3:26 p.m., Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk wrote: > Anyone know the name of the part of a old style speedo cable which has the internal threads that screw on to the speedo and output and has knurling so it screws on by hand ? > > Bob Nogueira > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dhlocker at comcast.net > From dhlocker at comcast.net Fri Sep 13 06:55:39 2019 From: dhlocker at comcast.net (Donald H Locker) Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2019 08:55:39 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Speedometer cable nomenclature In-Reply-To: <4af2ec34-eec2-b0bb-ab52-f84a5d7f952b@comcast.net> References: <31F341A2-AC4F-4EF0-9258-EF4F3C0BD1DF@icloud.com> <4af2ec34-eec2-b0bb-ab52-f84a5d7f952b@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1357468a-6579-fd03-a0e0-0c22db1db35c@comcast.net> "speedometer nut" and "speedometer cable nut" searches returned many useful hits. is my preferred search place. Donald. -- *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue () no proprietary attachments; no html mail /\ On 12-Sep-2019 21:24, Donald H Locker wrote: > ?Coupling nut? I've never thought of it otherwise. > > Donald. > > *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue > () no proprietary attachments; no html mail > /\ > > On 2019-09-12 3:26 p.m., Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk wrote: >> Anyone know the name of the part of a old style speedo cable which has >> the internal threads that screw on to the speedo and output and has >> knurling so it screws on by hand ? >> >> Bob Nogueira >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation? $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dhlocker at comcast.net >> From eric at megageek.com Fri Sep 13 08:59:55 2019 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2019 10:59:55 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Tool Question In-Reply-To: References: , <20190910.142307.12658.0@webmail11.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: Matt, I have had limited success with the "Metrinch" set. It's actually a GREAT set of tools and way high quality for the late night infomercial that it was sold on in the early 90's. But they quickly disappeared. They seem to have the same sets here https://www.metrinch.tv/ now. But the outside of a rounded nut isn't the problem in many cases, it's that the inside is somewhat fused together. That is why I only had limited success. I recently got this, and I wish I had one YEARS ago. No bolt can defeat it. The leads are flexible so you can make it fit into any area. https://www.amazon.com/TFCFL-Induction-Magnetic-Flameless-Mouldings/dp/B07QK93N9M/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3I0GFOXWBLM8E&keywords=induction+heater+bolt+removal&qid=1568386367&s=gateway&sprefix=induction+heater+bolt%2Caps%2C311&sr=8-3 It might be a little pricey at first, but the first stud that you can remove without it breaking in the head it more than pay for itself! Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem. Tech Viper "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson -Who is John Galt? On Tue, Sep 10, 2019 at 7:25 PM +0100, "Matt via Shop-talk" wrote: I have a seized bolt I am trying to loosen without breaking and it is in a hard to reach location. I can't get a socket on it and the 12 point box wrench I am using is slipping off. I am having trouble locating a 6 point wrench (10mm by the way). QUESTION: What is your experience with the roller based wrenches that are marketed as "no slip" and well suited to partially rounded fasteners? TIA! _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eric at megageek.com From mbarre at juno.com Fri Sep 13 12:46:06 2019 From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2019 18:46:06 GMT Subject: [Shop-talk] Tool Question Message-ID: <20190913.144606.24267.0@webmail03.vgs.untd.com> Thanks Inch! That is a great tip. I am able to reach the bolt in question reasonably well with my mapp gas torch.I am taking an iterative approach right now and hope to report success soon! Matt ---------- Original Message ---------- From: eric at megageek.com To: "SHOPTALK DIGEST" Cc: Matt Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tool Question Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2019 10:59:55 -0400 Matt, I have had limited success with the "Metrinch" set. It's actually a GREAT set of tools and way high quality for the late night infomercial that it was sold on in the early 90's. But they quickly disappeared. They seem to have the same sets here https://www.metrinch.tv/ now. But the outside of a rounded nut isn't the problem in many cases, it's that the inside is somewhat fused together. That is why I only had limited success. I recently got this, and I wish I had one YEARS ago. No bolt can defeat it. The leads are flexible so you can make it fit into any area. https://www.amazon.com/TFCFL-Induction-Magnetic-Flameless-Mouldings/dp/B07QK93N9M/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3I0GFOXWBLM8E&keywords=induction+heater+bolt+removal&qid=1568386367&s=gateway&sprefix=induction+heater+bolt%2Caps%2C311&sr=8-3 It might be a little pricey at first, but the first stud that you can remove without it breaking in the head it more than pay for itself! Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem. Tech Viper "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson -Who is John Galt? On Tue, Sep 10, 2019 at 7:25 PM +0100, "Matt via Shop-talk" wrote: I have a seized bolt I am trying to loosen without breaking and it is in a hard to reach location. I can't get a socket on it and the 12 point box wrench I am using is slipping off. I am having trouble locating a 6 point wrench (10mm by the way). QUESTION: What is your experience with the roller based wrenches that are marketed as "no slip" and well suited to partially rounded fasteners? TIA! _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eric at megageek.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 13 14:53:53 2019 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2019 13:53:53 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] FW: Tool Question Message-ID: Looks like a handy person could make one for a bit less money. Eg, https://www.instructables.com/id/1000W-Portable-Induction-Heater/ Here's an oscillator board for $10 on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Voltage-Induction-Heating-Flyback/dp/B01N484G CP Rectifier & filter for $15 https://www.amazon.com/NOYITO-Rectifier-Rectifying-Amplifier-Dedicated/dp/B0 7BJJ5337 Aand, power transformer from a scrap microwave oven: https://www.instructables.com/id/Custom-DC-Power-From-Microwave-Oven-Transfo rmer/ -- Randall 56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver 71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild 71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild From darrellw360 at mac.com Sun Sep 15 12:00:51 2019 From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2019 11:00:51 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Adding a tube into aluminum manifold Message-ID: <674699EC-E00D-4D1D-B624-665229F2AB32@mac.com> I?m adapting a Land Rover intake manifold for use on my TR8. One thing I need to do is add a connection from the manifold to feed the heater. There is a place on the manifold that will work perfectly. My initial plan was to tap the manifold for a copper fitting. But will there be an issue with copper threaded into aluminum? If the copper is a bad idea, I could use an aluminum tube, but how to connect it? I might be able to find someone to TIG weld it. Or I could try JB Weld, or there are some products to solder aluminum together. -Darrell -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206 Vancouver, WA, USA From pj_thomas at comcast.net Mon Sep 16 11:32:53 2019 From: pj_thomas at comcast.net (Peter J. Thomas) Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2019 13:32:53 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Adding a tube into aluminum manifold In-Reply-To: <674699EC-E00D-4D1D-B624-665229F2AB32@mac.com> References: <674699EC-E00D-4D1D-B624-665229F2AB32@mac.com> Message-ID: Drill and tap aluminum, then solder with aluminum solder rods.? HD carries Bernzomatic? AL3 rods, though I like the Forney Easy-Flo Aluminum Brazing Rod sold at Tractor Supply better. On 9/15/2019 2:00 PM, Darrell Walker via Shop-talk wrote: > I?m adapting a Land Rover intake manifold for use on my TR8. One thing I need to do is add a connection from the manifold to feed the heater. There is a place on the manifold that will work perfectly. > > My initial plan was to tap the manifold for a copper fitting. But will there be an issue with copper threaded into aluminum? > > From darrellw360 at mac.com Mon Sep 16 11:47:49 2019 From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2019 10:47:49 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Adding a tube into aluminum manifold In-Reply-To: References: <674699EC-E00D-4D1D-B624-665229F2AB32@mac.com> Message-ID: <3C9407F5-DB3D-451F-9C01-E1BE142DAFA3@mac.com> Hi Peter, Thanks for the reply. Is propane or MAP gas enough heat for those rods? I forgot to mention, the pipe is 5/8?. I could drop down to 1/2? (that?s what I was going to do in the copper, then up to 5/8? with a brass hose barf). But since I?m brazing it, would straight threads be OK? Technically, there is a 5/8? NPT size defined, but I?ve not found any taps or dies in that size. -Darrell > On Sep 16, 2019, at 10:32 AM, Peter J. Thomas wrote: > > Drill and tap aluminum, then solder with aluminum solder rods. HD carries Bernzomatic AL3 rods, though I like the Forney Easy-Flo Aluminum Brazing Rod sold at Tractor Supply better. > > On 9/15/2019 2:00 PM, Darrell Walker via Shop-talk wrote: >> I?m adapting a Land Rover intake manifold for use on my TR8. One thing I need to do is add a connection from the manifold to feed the heater. There is a place on the manifold that will work perfectly. >> >> My initial plan was to tap the manifold for a copper fitting. But will there be an issue with copper threaded into aluminum? >> >> > From pj_thomas at comcast.net Mon Sep 16 12:23:32 2019 From: pj_thomas at comcast.net (Peter J. Thomas) Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2019 14:23:32 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Adding a tube into aluminum manifold In-Reply-To: <3C9407F5-DB3D-451F-9C01-E1BE142DAFA3@mac.com> References: <674699EC-E00D-4D1D-B624-665229F2AB32@mac.com> <3C9407F5-DB3D-451F-9C01-E1BE142DAFA3@mac.com> Message-ID: <41df05a3-c64a-307a-d03e-4fa9eb253b55@comcast.net> Propane is more than enough for these types of rods.? Map gas only burns a few hundred degrees hotter than propane, unless you use oxygen. Straight thread should be fine.? The purpose of the tapered NPT thread is form a mechanical seal but since you are going to braze straight thread should be fine. I sealed a radiator hole in the fins with the Forney rods no leaks, so a brazing a tapped hole should be more than adequate. On 9/16/2019 1:47 PM, Darrell Walker wrote: > Hi Peter, > > Thanks for the reply. Is propane or MAP gas enough heat for those rods? > > I forgot to mention, the pipe is 5/8?. I could drop down to 1/2? (that?s what I was going to do in the copper, then up to 5/8? with a brass hose barf). But since I?m brazing it, would straight threads be OK? Technically, there is a 5/8? NPT size defined, but I?ve not found any taps or dies in that size. > > -Darrell > >> On Sep 16, 2019, at 10:32 AM, Peter J. Thomas wrote: >> >> Drill and tap aluminum, then solder with aluminum solder rods. HD carries Bernzomatic AL3 rods, though I like the Forney Easy-Flo Aluminum Brazing Rod sold at Tractor Supply better. >> >> On 9/15/2019 2:00 PM, Darrell Walker via Shop-talk wrote: >>> I?m adapting a Land Rover intake manifold for use on my TR8. One thing I need to do is add a connection from the manifold to feed the heater. There is a place on the manifold that will work perfectly. >>> >>> My initial plan was to tap the manifold for a copper fitting. But will there be an issue with copper threaded into aluminum? >>> >>> > From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 16 13:13:13 2019 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2019 12:13:13 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Adding a tube into aluminum manifold In-Reply-To: <41df05a3-c64a-307a-d03e-4fa9eb253b55@comcast.net> References: <674699EC-E00D-4D1D-B624-665229F2AB32@mac.com> <3C9407F5-DB3D-451F-9C01-E1BE142DAFA3@mac.com> <41df05a3-c64a-307a-d03e-4fa9eb253b55@comcast.net> Message-ID: <8ABA87890E5046B8A8BA537AED72C296@RYPC> If you're going to braze, threads seem redundant. Just make a tight fitting hole. MAPP isn't much hotter, but the flame transfers heat quite a bit better. Obviously depends on which torch and so on, but my propane torch just couldn't get the casting hot enough to melt the brazing rod. This all seems like overkill to me, though. Car makers routinely put steel NPT fittings into aluminum manifolds, and they very rarely rot out even after decades of service. -- Randall 56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver 71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild 71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild From darrellw360 at mac.com Mon Sep 16 16:10:47 2019 From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2019 15:10:47 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Adding a tube into aluminum manifold In-Reply-To: <8ABA87890E5046B8A8BA537AED72C296@RYPC> References: <674699EC-E00D-4D1D-B624-665229F2AB32@mac.com> <3C9407F5-DB3D-451F-9C01-E1BE142DAFA3@mac.com> <41df05a3-c64a-307a-d03e-4fa9eb253b55@comcast.net> <8ABA87890E5046B8A8BA537AED72C296@RYPC> Message-ID: <5FF062FF-C6F9-4BE6-9ECD-218785E2B635@mac.com> Hi Randall, > On Sep 16, 2019, at 12:13 PM, Randall via Shop-talk wrote: > > This all seems like overkill to me, though. Car makers routinely put steel > NPT fittings into aluminum manifolds, and they very rarely rot out even > after decades of service. Thanks, I do see plenty of examples of steel. What I didn?t know was if cooper would be better or worse. -Darrell -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 16 16:57:50 2019 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2019 15:57:50 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Adding a tube into aluminum manifold In-Reply-To: <5FF062FF-C6F9-4BE6-9ECD-218785E2B635@mac.com> References: <674699EC-E00D-4D1D-B624-665229F2AB32@mac.com> <3C9407F5-DB3D-451F-9C01-E1BE142DAFA3@mac.com> <41df05a3-c64a-307a-d03e-4fa9eb253b55@comcast.net> <8ABA87890E5046B8A8BA537AED72C296@RYPC> <5FF062FF-C6F9-4BE6-9ECD-218785E2B635@mac.com> Message-ID: <5A9F51FD14B54A8C8C3A8271DD94D94E@RYPC> > Thanks, I do see plenty of examples of steel. What I didn't > know was if cooper would be better or worse. I don't know; but at least theoretically, copper would be worse. Aluminum has a galvanic potential of -1.67 (according to EngineeringToolbox.com), iron (steel) is -0.44 for a net difference of 1.23. Copper is +0.34, for a net difference of 2.01. The real world doesn't always follow theory, though, so YMMV. -- Randall 56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver 71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild 71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Sep 16 19:02:38 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2019 18:02:38 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Adding a tube into aluminum manifold In-Reply-To: <41df05a3-c64a-307a-d03e-4fa9eb253b55@comcast.net> References: <674699EC-E00D-4D1D-B624-665229F2AB32@mac.com> <3C9407F5-DB3D-451F-9C01-E1BE142DAFA3@mac.com> <41df05a3-c64a-307a-d03e-4fa9eb253b55@comcast.net> Message-ID: FWIW, 'true' MAPP gas hasn't been available for some time: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAPP_gas On 9/16/2019 11:23 AM, Peter J. Thomas via Shop-talk wrote: > Propane is more than enough for these types of rods.? Map gas only > burns a few hundred degrees hotter than propane, unless you use oxygen. > > Straight thread should be fine.? The purpose of the tapered NPT thread > is form a mechanical seal but since you are going to braze straight > thread should be fine. I sealed a radiator hole in the fins with the > Forney rods no leaks, so a brazing a tapped hole should be more than > adequate. > > > On 9/16/2019 1:47 PM, Darrell Walker wrote: >> Hi Peter, >> >> Thanks for the reply.? Is propane or MAP gas enough heat for those rods? >> >> I forgot to mention, the pipe is 5/8?.? I could drop down to 1/2? >> (that?s what I was going to do in the copper, then up to 5/8? with a >> brass hose barf).? But since I?m brazing it, would straight threads >> be OK?? Technically, there is a 5/8? NPT size defined, but I?ve not >> found any taps or dies in that size. >> >> -Darrell >> >>> On Sep 16, 2019, at 10:32 AM, Peter J. Thomas >>> wrote: >>> >>> Drill and tap aluminum, then solder with aluminum solder rods.? HD >>> carries Bernzomatic? AL3 rods, though I like the Forney Easy-Flo >>> Aluminum Brazing Rod sold at Tractor Supply better. >>> >>> On 9/15/2019 2:00 PM, Darrell Walker via Shop-talk wrote: >>>> I?m adapting a Land Rover intake manifold for use on my TR8.? One >>>> thing I need to do is add a connection from the manifold to feed >>>> the heater.? There is a place on the manifold that will work >>>> perfectly. >>>> >>>> My initial plan was to tap the manifold for a copper fitting.? But >>>> will there be an issue with copper threaded into aluminum? >>>> >>>> >> > From bjzwissler at gmail.com Tue Sep 10 14:24:07 2019 From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Benjamin Zwissler) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 16:24:07 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Tool Question In-Reply-To: References: <20190910.142307.12658.0@webmail11.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: What about using a flare nut wrench? 10mm is a pretty common size for those. I also haven't had much luck with any of the "miracle" wrenches for rounded corners. A good pair of vice grips is my last attempt before going to the extremes of drilling, welding, etc. Ben.... On Tue, Sep 10, 2019 at 3:28 PM John Innis via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > I have not had much success with the "no-slip" wrenches. I found that if > you have 2 good corners, they sometimes work, but I also broke one trying > to free a stuck bolt. > If you are able to get a socket on it, but don't have room for the > ratchet, try using a wrench adapter. I have had much success using these > in tight spots. I can't find an example online but I bought a set are > Sears many years ago. Basically just t little adapter that goes in the > drive end of the socket in place of a ratchet or breaker bar. Is has a hex > head that is very thin that allows you to get on it with a wrench. Or > two. Or a 4' length of pipe over the handle of a wrench. > > On Tue, Sep 10, 2019 at 1:25 PM Matt via Shop-talk < > shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> I have a seized bolt I am trying to loosen without breaking and it is in >> a hard to reach location. >> I can't get a socket on it and the 12 point box wrench I am using is >> slipping off. >> I am having trouble locating a 6 point wrench (10mm by the way). >> >> QUESTION: >> What is your experience with the roller based wrenches that are marketed >> as "no slip" and well suited to partially rounded fasteners? >> >> TIA! >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com >> >> > > -- > ================================= > = Never offend people with style when you = > = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = > ================================= > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler at gmail.com > > -- Ben Zwissler bjzwissler at gmail.com Columbus, IN -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Sep 10 15:53:45 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 14:53:45 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Tool Question In-Reply-To: References: <20190910.142307.12658.0@webmail11.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: Needle-nose vice grips. > On Sep 10, 2019, at 2:14 PM, Neil Sherry via Shop-talk wrote: > > Rather than using brute force, get some heat on it. If has already rounded, it's reluctant to move, so deal with that first and then whatever you use will have a fighting chance. > Neil > > Sent from Outlook for Android > > > > > On Tue, Sep 10, 2019 at 7:25 PM +0100, "Matt via Shop-talk" wrote: > >> I have a seized bolt I am trying to loosen without breaking and it is in a hard to reach location. >> I can't get a socket on it and the 12 point box wrench I am using is slipping off. >> I am having trouble locating a 6 point wrench (10mm by the way). >> >> QUESTION: >> What is your experience with the roller based wrenches that are marketed as "no slip" and well suited to partially rounded fasteners? >> >> TIA! > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From JIBrooks at live.com Mon Sep 16 11:59:34 2019 From: JIBrooks at live.com (Jack Brooks) Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2019 17:59:34 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Adding a tube into aluminum manifold In-Reply-To: <3C9407F5-DB3D-451F-9C01-E1BE142DAFA3@mac.com> References: <674699EC-E00D-4D1D-B624-665229F2AB32@mac.com> , <3C9407F5-DB3D-451F-9C01-E1BE142DAFA3@mac.com> Message-ID: Darrell, I used the stock coolant locations and piped outside, instead of under the manifold on my TR8 with an SD1 3 piece intake. I can provide pictures if that helps. Jack ________________________________ From: Shop-talk on behalf of Darrell Walker via Shop-talk Sent: Monday, September 16, 2019 10:47:49 AM To: Peter J. Thomas Cc: Steven Trovato via Shop-talk Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Adding a tube into aluminum manifold Hi Peter, Thanks for the reply. Is propane or MAP gas enough heat for those rods? I forgot to mention, the pipe is 5/8?. I could drop down to 1/2? (that?s what I was going to do in the copper, then up to 5/8? with a brass hose barf). But since I?m brazing it, would straight threads be OK? Technically, there is a 5/8? NPT size defined, but I?ve not found any taps or dies in that size. -Darrell > On Sep 16, 2019, at 10:32 AM, Peter J. Thomas wrote: > > Drill and tap aluminum, then solder with aluminum solder rods. HD carries Bernzomatic AL3 rods, though I like the Forney Easy-Flo Aluminum Brazing Rod sold at Tractor Supply better. > > On 9/15/2019 2:00 PM, Darrell Walker via Shop-talk wrote: >> I?m adapting a Land Rover intake manifold for use on my TR8. One thing I need to do is add a connection from the manifold to feed the heater. There is a place on the manifold that will work perfectly. >> >> My initial plan was to tap the manifold for a copper fitting. But will there be an issue with copper threaded into aluminum? >> >> > _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibrooks at live.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From nogera at icloud.com Tue Sep 24 19:50:57 2019 From: nogera at icloud.com (Robert Nogueirao) Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2019 20:50:57 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Speedometer angle drive Message-ID: <7635E034-339D-4D76-A2FB-48B2E4A3E996@icloud.com> Anyone know a small shop that can supply a Smiths type speedometer angle drive? The big boy British car suppliers either don?t have them and if they do they can only tell me what they fit. What I?m looking for is an angle drive with a 3/32 inch quill and a 5/8 inch screw on coupler. Bob Nogueira From ejrussell at mebtel.net Tue Sep 24 20:45:53 2019 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell) Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2019 22:45:53 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Speedometer angle drive In-Reply-To: <7635E034-339D-4D76-A2FB-48B2E4A3E996@icloud.com> References: <7635E034-339D-4D76-A2FB-48B2E4A3E996@icloud.com> Message-ID: <96a23e56-9180-dd78-3ae3-0cb3460b4747@mebtel.net> I don't know if he'll have what you seek but Morris at West Valley Instruments has been very good about responding to my email inquiries. https://www.westvalleyinstruments.com/ Eric Russell Mebane, NC On 9/24/2019 9:50 PM, Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk wrote: > Anyone know a small shop that can supply a Smiths type speedometer angle drive? From nogera at icloud.com Wed Sep 25 20:14:58 2019 From: nogera at icloud.com (Robert Nogueirao) Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2019 21:14:58 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Speedometer angle drive In-Reply-To: <96a23e56-9180-dd78-3ae3-0cb3460b4747@mebtel.net> References: <7635E034-339D-4D76-A2FB-48B2E4A3E996@icloud.com> <96a23e56-9180-dd78-3ae3-0cb3460b4747@mebtel.net> Message-ID: Eric, thank you for the recommendation to contact Morris. I called and he called right back and is going to modify a new angle drive to fit my needs. Bob Nogueira > On Sep 24, 2019, at 9:45 PM, Eric Russell via Shop-talk wrote: > > I don't know if he'll have what you seek but Morris at West Valley Instruments has been very good about responding to my email inquiries. > > https://www.westvalleyinstruments.com/ > > Eric Russell > Mebane, NC > >> On 9/24/2019 9:50 PM, Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk wrote: >> Anyone know a small shop that can supply a Smiths type speedometer angle drive? > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/nogera at icloud.com > From mark at bradakis.com Thu Sep 26 10:36:02 2019 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2019 10:36:02 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Working on a "modern" car, 2004 Chevy Blazer Message-ID: Whew, that was a hot bite! Made some jerked chicken thighs yesterday, just had the leftovers for dinner. Maybe that last habanero was not strictly needed. But what I do need is some work on my truck, a 2004 S10 Blazer. It doesn't always crank when you turn the key. Usually it works, sometimes it takes many attempts and some jiggling the key. Not looking forward to working on tracking down if it the key switch, the starter, or something in between. Modern cars are so much more complicated than 50 year old Triumphs. Those I know. Well, I used to, certainly out of practice these days but I am guessing it won't take too much training to remember which end of the screwdriver goes in my hand. Hmmm, guess first step might be hitting one of the major chain parts places for an appropriate repair guide, and start poring over wiring diagrams. Fun fun fun! mjb. From patintexas at icloud.com Thu Sep 26 10:53:23 2019 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2019 11:53:23 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Working on a "modern" car, 2004 Chevy Blazer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5E10D3AA-D1DC-4604-AD6E-926B1374B4F2@icloud.com> I?ve found wiring diagrams on line @ autozone for free for my2006 Dodge Caravan. Crappy Hanes & chilling manuals are going for north of $25 if I remember correctly. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity > On Sep 26, 2019, at 11:42 AM, Mark J Bradakis via Shop-talk wrote: > ?Whew, that was a hot bite! Made some jerked chicken thighs yesterday, just had the leftovers for dinner. Maybe that last habanero was not strictly needed. But what I do need is some work on my truck, a 2004 S10 Blazer. It doesn't always crank when you turn the key. Usually it works, sometimes it takes many attempts and some jiggling the key. Not looking forward to working on tracking down if it the key switch, the starter, or something in between. Modern cars are so much more complicated than 50 year old Triumphs. Those I know. Well, I used to, certainly out of practice these days but I am guessing it won't take too much training to remember which end of the screwdriver goes in my hand. Hmmm, guess first step might be hitting one of the major chain parts places for an appropriate repair guide, and start poring over wiring diagrams. Fun fun fun! mjb. _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com From ronnie.day at gmail.com Thu Sep 26 11:19:19 2019 From: ronnie.day at gmail.com (Ronnie Day) Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2019 12:19:19 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Working on a "modern" car, 2004 Chevy Blazer In-Reply-To: <5E10D3AA-D1DC-4604-AD6E-926B1374B4F2@icloud.com> References: <5E10D3AA-D1DC-4604-AD6E-926B1374B4F2@icloud.com> Message-ID: Mark, other than the usual traditional suspects I'd check Google and YouTube. I'll bet you could find instructions for brain surgery on YouTube! I've also found the Haynes on-line to be useful, sometimes. I have lifetime Haynes subscriptions for our '02 Suburban and '07 Accord, but by the time we bought our '98 F-150 they'd gone to annual only, which ticked me off somewhat. I'm guessing you have a code reader. Does it offer any information? On Thu, Sep 26, 2019 at 11:54 AM Pat Horne via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > I?ve found wiring diagrams on line @ autozone for free for my2006 Dodge > Caravan. Crappy Hanes & chilling manuals are going for north of $25 if I > remember correctly. > > Peace, > Pat > > Pat Horne > We support Habitat for Humanity > > > > On Sep 26, 2019, at 11:42 AM, Mark J Bradakis via Shop-talk < > shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > > > > ?Whew, that was a hot bite! Made some jerked chicken thighs yesterday, > just had the leftovers for dinner. Maybe that last habanero was not > strictly needed. > > But what I do need is some work on my truck, a 2004 S10 Blazer. It doesn't > always crank when you turn the key. Usually it works, sometimes it takes > many attempts and some jiggling the key. Not looking forward to working on > tracking down if it the key switch, the starter, or something in between. > Modern cars are so much more complicated than 50 year old Triumphs. Those I > know. Well, I used to, certainly out of practice these days but I am > guessing it won't take too much training to remember which end of the > screwdriver goes in my hand. > > Hmmm, guess first step might be hitting one of the major chain parts > places for an appropriate repair guide, and start poring over wiring > diagrams. Fun fun fun! > > > mjb. > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ronnie.day at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From peterwmurray at gmail.com Thu Sep 26 11:42:02 2019 From: peterwmurray at gmail.com (Peter Murray) Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2019 13:42:02 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Working on a "modern" car, 2004 Chevy Blazer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I don't think any of those came in manual, so I'm assuming it has an automatic transmission. I'm also assuming that, aside from the starter not cranking, everything else seems okay. Does the fuel pump prime? Does the starter solenoid fire? Is the battery in good condition? Assuming you hear nothing from the starter, I'd start with the starter relay, and if that is fine, I'd look at the neutral safety switch. What happens if you jiggle the transmission, or try to start in neutral? -Peter On Thu, Sep 26, 2019 at 12:53 PM Mark J Bradakis via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > Whew, that was a hot bite! Made some jerked chicken thighs yesterday, > just had the leftovers for dinner. Maybe that last habanero was not > strictly needed. > > But what I do need is some work on my truck, a 2004 S10 Blazer. It > doesn't always crank when you turn the key. Usually it works, sometimes > it takes many attempts and some jiggling the key. Not looking forward to > working on tracking down if it the key switch, the starter, or something > in between. Modern cars are so much more complicated than 50 year old > Triumphs. Those I know. Well, I used to, certainly out of practice these > days but I am guessing it won't take too much training to remember which > end of the screwdriver goes in my hand. > > Hmmm, guess first step might be hitting one of the major chain parts > places for an appropriate repair guide, and start poring over wiring > diagrams. Fun fun fun! > > > mjb. > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Thu Sep 26 12:15:08 2019 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2019 12:15:08 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Working on a "modern" car, 2004 Chevy Blazer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <23d1c7ec-8b31-dd47-592c-dc7079c45869@bradakis.com> On 9/26/19 11:21 AM, John Innis wrote: > I had a similar issue on a 1999 S Blazer.? It ended up being a bad > batter cable, but YMMV. My first step will be to check the battery connections and the starter wiring.? I wonder how long it will take me just to find the starter?? And what I'll have to remove to get access? But I am 'currently' charging up my portable power pack, will keep that handy in the vehicle. mjb. From fishplate at gmail.com Thu Sep 26 14:09:51 2019 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2019 16:09:51 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Working on a "modern" car, 2004 Chevy Blazer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: As others have said, there's probably nothing too complicated for YouTube. Battery (unlikely), Neutral Safety switch, Ignition switch, starter solenoid. In the olden days, GM electrical ignition switch modules were mounted lower ont he steering column, making them relatively easy to access, test, and replace. Operated by a rod coming down from the mechanical portion. So, when it fails in Park, does it start in Neutral? On Thu, Sep 26, 2019 at 1:43 PM Peter Murray via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > I don't think any of those came in manual, so I'm assuming it has an > automatic transmission. I'm also assuming that, aside from the starter not > cranking, everything else seems okay. Does the fuel pump prime? Does the > starter solenoid fire? Is the battery in good condition? > > Assuming you hear nothing from the starter, I'd start with the starter > relay, and if that is fine, I'd look at the neutral safety switch. What > happens if you jiggle the transmission, or try to start in neutral? > > -Peter > > On Thu, Sep 26, 2019 at 12:53 PM Mark J Bradakis via Shop-talk < > shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> Whew, that was a hot bite! Made some jerked chicken thighs yesterday, >> just had the leftovers for dinner. Maybe that last habanero was not >> strictly needed. >> >> But what I do need is some work on my truck, a 2004 S10 Blazer. It >> doesn't always crank when you turn the key. Usually it works, sometimes >> it takes many attempts and some jiggling the key. Not looking forward to >> working on tracking down if it the key switch, the starter, or something >> in between. Modern cars are so much more complicated than 50 year old >> Triumphs. Those I know. Well, I used to, certainly out of practice these >> days but I am guessing it won't take too much training to remember which >> end of the screwdriver goes in my hand. >> >> Hmmm, guess first step might be hitting one of the major chain parts >> places for an appropriate repair guide, and start poring over wiring >> diagrams. Fun fun fun! >> >> >> mjb. >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Thu Sep 26 14:17:54 2019 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2019 20:17:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] Working on a "modern" car, 2004 Chevy Blazer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <918301790.9046002.1569529074894@mail.yahoo.com> Does that have the RFID chip int he key fob?? If so that could be the same problem we had with our Ford.? There is a switch that is activated when the key is inserted that instructs the computer to read the RFID device and verify the code is authorized to start the car.? The plastic button that operates the switch broke and would not operate the switch without a bunch of fiddling.? The shop fixed it for us so I have no idea what was involved but I'm sure there's a You Tube video out there. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Mark J Bradakis via Shop-talk To: Shop-talk at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Sep 26, 2019 11:41 am Subject: [Shop-talk] Working on a "modern" car, 2004 Chevy Blazer Whew, that was a hot bite! Made some jerked chicken thighs yesterday, just had the leftovers for dinner. Maybe that last habanero was not strictly needed. But what I do need is some work on my truck, a 2004 S10 Blazer. It doesn't always crank when you turn the key. Usually it works, sometimes it takes many attempts and some jiggling the key. Not looking forward to working on tracking down if it the key switch, the starter, or something in between. Modern cars are so much more complicated than 50 year old Triumphs. Those I know. Well, I used to, certainly out of practice these days but I am guessing it won't take too much training to remember which end of the screwdriver goes in my hand. Hmmm, guess first step might be hitting one of the major chain parts places for an appropriate repair guide, and start poring over wiring diagrams. Fun fun fun! mjb. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Thu Sep 26 18:20:48 2019 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2019 18:20:48 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Working on a "modern" car, 2004 Chevy Blazer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On 9/26/19 2:09 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > > So, when it fails in Park, does it start in Neutral? Hadn't thought of that, will check next time it happens. mjb. From jamesf at groupwbench.org Sun Sep 29 07:23:23 2019 From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin) Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2019 09:23:23 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Lighhting a 4 season driveway Message-ID: <1141B02D-2C81-4D2F-9694-0C8E07039BAB@groupwbench.org> I have a steep one lane driveway that flattens out and also widens to 2 car + parking at the top, so that when backing down it, you can't see where you're going until the car gets off the flat part and the surface is now in your mirror. Additionally, there is no ambient light and it's blacktop, so at night all you have are reverse lights which mostly do nothing. I need lights that will allow one to see where they're backing, and ideally something to guide them before the car is on the incline but that's secondary. Maybe the illumination lights can also serve as side-view mirror guide lights. One side gets sun most of the day but the other is only morning sun, but maybe enough to do solar, if solar has come far enough that the lights will work for more than a few months. I could also just run a circuit underground which would also give me nice options for a lamp post at the bottom, and some footpath lighting in the stone wall at the top. Have any of your done this with reasonable success (or, of course, horror stories :-) )? thanks, jim -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: smime.p7s Type: application/pkcs7-signature Size: 1386 bytes Desc: not available URL: From lspector at gmail.com Sun Sep 29 08:05:36 2019 From: lspector at gmail.com (Larry Spector) Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2019 10:05:36 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Old Rhino Ramp degradation? Message-ID: I've got a pair of 20-25 year old Rhino (composite) ramps. Bought them new, but haven't used them in years. Should I be concerned about them degrading over time? They've been stored in my garage out of the sunlight, so there's no sun damage. Thoughts? Thanks, Larry -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jem at milleredp.com Sun Sep 29 09:58:12 2019 From: jem at milleredp.com (John Miller) Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2019 08:58:12 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Old Rhino Ramp degradation? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On 9/29/2019 7:05 AM, Larry Spector via Shop-talk wrote: > I've got a pair of 20-25 year old Rhino (composite) ramps. Bought them > new, but haven't used them in?years. Should I be concerned about them > degrading over time? They've been stored in my garage out of the > sunlight, so there's no sun damage. Yeah, I think the big issue is as with so many plastics, keeping them out of the sun. I have a pair not much younger than yours and they are in good shape. John. From bk13 at earthlink.net Sun Sep 29 11:56:01 2019 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2019 10:56:01 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Lighhting a 4 season driveway In-Reply-To: <1141B02D-2C81-4D2F-9694-0C8E07039BAB@groupwbench.org> References: <1141B02D-2C81-4D2F-9694-0C8E07039BAB@groupwbench.org> Message-ID: Solar can be an easy option if you can't run power.? I have brick walls at the end of my driveway and there are no street lights, so I added a pair of solar lights four years ago and they still work. This is the model: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Nature-Power-Bayport-16-in-Outdoor-Black-Solar-Lamp-with-Super-Bright-Natural-White-LED-and-3-Mounting-Options-23206/204866812 or if the link doesn't work, search for 204866812 at HomeDepot.com. There are plenty of other options.? I just tried this one because it was one of their special buys of the day.? This model has a high and low setting.? When the battery gets low, the light drops to the low setting automatically.? In the winter (in Southern CA), the light will often still be on in the morning when I leave for work. You can also pick up solar path light set at a reasonable price.?? I have not had as much luck with them, so don't have a recommendation.? They should be ok to light a path for walking and are very easy to install.? It is cheap enough to pickup a set and try. If concerned about solar and you have power nearby, look at a low voltage setup.? It is a direct bury cable and relatively easy as well.? Because it is low voltage, you don't have the requirement you would have with a 110V circuit. On my front stairs where I do have power available, I replaced a giant security light with a light sensing 7W LED light.? 7 watts of LED lighting is plenty to light the stairs for walking. Brian On 9/29/2019 6:23 AM, Jim Franklin via Shop-talk wrote: > I have a steep one lane driveway that flattens out and also widens to 2 car + parking at the top, so that when backing down it, you can't see where you're going until the car gets off the flat part and the surface is now in your mirror. Additionally, there is no ambient light and it's blacktop, so at night all you have are reverse lights which mostly do nothing. > > I need lights that will allow one to see where they're backing, and ideally something to guide them before the car is on the incline but that's secondary. Maybe the illumination lights can also serve as side-view mirror guide lights. > > One side gets sun most of the day but the other is only morning sun, but maybe enough to do solar, if solar has come far enough that the lights will work for more than a few months. > > I could also just run a circuit underground which would also give me nice options for a lamp post at the bottom, and some footpath lighting in the stone wall at the top. > > Have any of your done this with reasonable success (or, of course, horror stories :-) )? > > thanks, > jim > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: