[Shop-talk] Washer/dryer clearances

Bill Rabel brabel at comcast.net
Thu Oct 17 14:53:25 MDT 2019


I had a similar situation. I found a galvanized steel skinny duct, about 3” x 6”, maybe three feet long, with a round inlet to fit the dryer, and a round outlet above the dryer to transition to round ducting. I’d try Amazon or Google. 

- Bill Rabel
  Anacortes 

“Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly and applying the wrong remedy.” - Sir Ernest Benn


> On Oct 17, 2019, at 1:12 PM, Jimmie Mayfield via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Is the door louvered?  If not, you might run into problems when operating the dryer in such a small room with the door closed.  The dryer blower is going to be rated for a few hundred CFM and that air needs to come from somewhere. Folks often complain about their dryers leaving clothes damp and for many of them the problem can be traced back to dryer starved for air.
> 
> Just something to keep in mind.
> 
> 
>> On 10/17/19 12:29 PM, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote:
>> We are finishing up our new cottage and ready to put the washer and dryer into the laundry closet.  The cottage is only 780 sq ft, so everything was designed pretty tightly.  Too tightly on the laundry closet, we have discovered.  The recommended clearances for the stacked washer and dryer are 1” on each side, 1" in front, and 5 1/2” in back.  The 5 1/2 in back is the problem.
>> 
>> The units are 27” x 30”, so the recommended closet space is 29” by 36 1/2”.  The closet is 38" x 34" when the door is closed, something I know my wife will want to do when the units are being used.  So, we have more then enough room on the sides, but too little in the back, where the vents are.  (FWIW: They only require about 7' of head room; we have 9’.)  We haven’t put the units in yet, but there should be more than enough space for the plumbing and dryer vent.
>> 
>> So, any thoughts? The closet door is a pocket door and we could fix the problem (or at least get close enough) by removing it and replacing it with a conventional door.  But, that would add time and expense at a time when we feel like we are out of both. I always assume there is some wiggle room set by the factories on things like minimum clearance, but certainly don’t want to create a fire hazard or burn out an expensive appliance.  We have more than enough total open area, but does that make up for the clearance in the back?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Jim
>> 
>> p.s.  Shop content: I discovered the problem when I was installing the overflow drain pan and running the drain pipes that will route any water from the basement into the garage.  :)
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