[Shop-talk] De-coupling overhead door torsion spring

[Scott Hall]

Which bolts am I loosening, Bill? The ones that appear to hold to the shaft
the fixture I'm going to be inserting the riffs into?

Thanks.

On Tue, Oct 15, 2019, 9:58 AM Bill Rabel <brabel at comcast.net> wrote:

> Scott -
>
> De-tension the springs first. You will need two steel rods, 12” - 18”
> long. 3/8” socket extensions work well.
>
> Put one rod into the hole in the collar with the securing bolts in it.
> Hold on to the rod when you loosen the bolts, and use the two rods to
> relieve the spring tension, 1/4 turn at a time.
>
> - Bill Rabel
>   Anacortes, WA
>
>
> “Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it exists
> or not, diagnosing it incorrectly and applying the wrong remedy.” - Sir
> Ernest Benn
>
> On Oct 14, 2019, at 8:39 PM, Scott Hall via Shop-talk <
> shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Got a new insulated garage door for winter here. Need to remove the old
> door.
>
>
> Torsion springs seem to be one of those things that drive emergency room
> visits in real life, not just internet clickbait.
>
>
> Before I just do what Google says, I think I'd like to hear from the real
> people on a subject like that. Can I somehow un-do the cable ends from the
> door, or the cables from the springs and then remove the door panels, or do
> I need to de-tension the torsion spring first?
>
>
> And if I need to de-tension it, what's the best method to avoid smashed
> skulls or broken limbs?
>
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
> Scott
>
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