From eric at megageek.com Wed Oct 2 10:17:52 2019 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2019 12:17:52 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Sticky steering wheel cleaning Message-ID: Hello all, I'm back from AZ for a few weeks, but my car is still out there. So I have to use my mason dump truck to get around. Here is the issue, the steering wheel is 'sticky' or grimy and using it for a short time, my hands feel disgusting. I've cleaned it and it feels nice for a few miles, but after less than an hour, it's back to being sticky/grimy. The steering wheel is the 'basic' (Vinyl?) type with no cover. Any ideas on how to clean it? Note, it seemed my old truck suffered from it as well, but since I was only using it when working, it didn't bother me. But now this truck is a primary for now. Thanks in advance! Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem. Tech Viper "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson -Who is John Galt? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Oct 2 10:26:07 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2019 09:26:07 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Sticky steering wheel cleaning In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5044dc81-276b-53b9-51aa-22310b05df5c@comcast.net> My goto product for cleaning up any gooey mess is '3M Adhesive Remover' (not sold in California anymore so you know it works): *https://tinyurl.com/y4askrue* Also, 'Goof Off' and similar products work OK too.? Always try a small bit on a hidden part if possible to make sure it doesn't cause damage.? I've used the 3M product for years and have never had it remove good paint or other coloring. Bob On 10/2/2019 9:17 AM, eric--- via Shop-talk wrote: > Hello all, I'm back from AZ for a few weeks, but my car is still out > there. ?So I have to use my mason dump truck to get around. > > Here is the issue, the steering wheel is 'sticky' or grimy and using > it for a short time, my hands feel disgusting. ?I've cleaned it and it > feels nice for a few miles, but after less than an hour, it's back to > being sticky/grimy. > > The steering wheel is the 'basic' (Vinyl?) type with no cover. ?Any > ideas on how to clean it? ?Note, it seemed my old truck suffered from > it as well, but since I was only using it when working, it didn't > bother me. ?But now this truck is a primary for now. > > Thanks in advance! > > > Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem. > Tech Viper > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a > rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your > territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson > -Who is John Galt? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dhlocker at comcast.net Wed Oct 2 10:28:40 2019 From: dhlocker at comcast.net (Donald H Locker) Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2019 12:28:40 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Sticky steering wheel cleaning In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Gloves? (If Simple Green doesn't work.) Donald. -- *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue () no proprietary attachments; no html mail /\ On 02-Oct-2019 12:17, eric--- via Shop-talk wrote: > Hello all, I'm back from AZ for a few weeks, but my car is still out there. > ?So I have to use my mason dump truck to get around. > > Here is the issue, the steering wheel is 'sticky' or grimy and using it for > a short time, my hands feel disgusting. ?I've cleaned it and it feels nice > for a few miles, but after less than an hour, it's back to being sticky/grimy. > > The steering wheel is the 'basic' (Vinyl?) type with no cover. ?Any ideas > on how to clean it? ?Note, it seemed my old truck suffered from it as well, > but since I was only using it when working, it didn't bother me. ?But now > this truck is a primary for now. > > Thanks in advance! > > > Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem. > Tech Viper > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson > -Who is John Galt? > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dhlocker at comcast.net > From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Oct 2 11:07:11 2019 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2019 10:07:11 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Sticky steering wheel cleaning In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <92CEBBB051C145D092C6264AFB11027B@RYPC> I don't know if this applies to your truck or not; but on my 95 Buick wagon, I determined that the oils (or whatever) from my hands were actually causing the old vinyl (again or whatever) to break down and become sticky. It quickly accumulated dirt of course, but the sticky seemed to come first and the surface of the wheel was slowly eroding away. It was made obvious because the surface was dyed (?) to match the car interior and the colored part was disappearing (exposing the dark gray underneath). Easy solution for me was a leather steering wheel cover. Wheelskins will custom make a lace-up style cover to suit almost any steering wheel (I have one of their custom covers on my Triumph TR3), but it turned out they had a stock cover that fit the wagon. Custom fit is the same price as stock, just takes a little bit longer while they make it (and of course you have to supply measurements). This is their web site https://wheelskins.com/original But, they sometimes run sales on eBay, which is where I got mine. They still made me a custom cover at the eBay price. -- Randall From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Oct 2 11:19:51 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2019 10:19:51 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Sticky steering wheel cleaning In-Reply-To: <6sk9pelochfsd0514sjnp5v7rgjiqdpojb@4ax.com> References: <5044dc81-276b-53b9-51aa-22310b05df5c@comcast.net> <6sk9pelochfsd0514sjnp5v7rgjiqdpojb@4ax.com> Message-ID: Yeah, I buy it online.? You can't get it OTC anymore. On 10/2/2019 9:44 AM, rwil at sbcglobal.net wrote: > I bought it on Amazon recently and it arrived here. Try it and see. > The Remover is very good and effective stuff. > > -Roland > somewhere in Southern California > > On Wed, 2 Oct 2019 09:26:07 -0700, you wrote: > >> My goto product for cleaning up any gooey mess is '3M Adhesive Remover' (not sold in California anymore so you know it works): >> >> >> https://tinyurl.com/y4askrue From pj_thomas at comcast.net Wed Oct 2 11:38:22 2019 From: pj_thomas at comcast.net (Peter J. Thomas) Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2019 13:38:22 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Sticky steering wheel cleaning In-Reply-To: References: <5044dc81-276b-53b9-51aa-22310b05df5c@comcast.net> <6sk9pelochfsd0514sjnp5v7rgjiqdpojb@4ax.com> Message-ID: <974af9e5-54c2-0539-f718-d58e224b58f5@comcast.net> Lighter fluid works as well as Goof Off and much cheaper. On 10/2/2019 1:19 PM, Bob Spidell via Shop-talk wrote: > Yeah, I buy it online.? You can't get it OTC anymore. > > On 10/2/2019 9:44 AM, rwil at sbcglobal.net wrote: >> I bought it on Amazon recently and it arrived here.? Try it and see. >> The Remover is very good and effective stuff. >> >> -Roland >> somewhere in Southern California >> >> On Wed, 2 Oct 2019 09:26:07 -0700, you wrote: >> >>> My goto product for cleaning up any gooey mess is '3M Adhesive >>> Remover' (not sold in California anymore so you know it works): >>> >>> >>> https://tinyurl.com/y4askrue > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_thomas at comcast.net > From dmscheidt at gmail.com Wed Oct 2 13:23:21 2019 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2019 14:23:21 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Sticky steering wheel cleaning In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2ECA4C53-74D1-4B3E-865A-C477E7F2634F@gmail.com> > On Oct 2, 2019, at 11:17, eric--- via Shop-talk wrote: > > Hello all, I'm back from AZ for a few weeks, but my car is still out there. So I have to use my mason dump truck to get around. > > Here is the issue, the steering wheel is 'sticky' or grimy and using it for a short time, my hands feel disgusting. I've cleaned it and it feels nice for a few miles, but after less than an hour, it's back to being sticky/grimy. Time for a cover. Any auto parts place will have a selection of generic ones. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Oct 3 22:05:14 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2019 21:05:14 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Sticky steering wheel cleaning In-Reply-To: <5044dc81-276b-53b9-51aa-22310b05df5c@comcast.net> References: <5044dc81-276b-53b9-51aa-22310b05df5c@comcast.net> Message-ID: <61937625-c266-f727-f651-5ba9595aa45c@comcast.net> Kinda late, but a thought occurred to me and didn't die of loneliness.? I think a waterless hand cleaner--GoJo, etc.--should work well and not be as toxic to the wheel as adhesive remover or other solvents.? It's 'gentle' enough for skin and does a good job removing upholstery glue when I make a mess with it. Bob On 10/2/2019 9:26 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > My goto product for cleaning up any gooey mess is '3M Adhesive > Remover' (not sold in California anymore so you know it works): > > *https://tinyurl.com/y4askrue* > > Also, 'Goof Off' and similar products work OK too.? Always try a small > bit on a hidden part if possible to make sure it doesn't cause > damage.? I've used the 3M product for years and have never had it > remove good paint or other coloring. > > Bob > > > On 10/2/2019 9:17 AM, eric--- via Shop-talk wrote: >> Hello all, I'm back from AZ for a few weeks, but my car is still out >> there. ?So I have to use my mason dump truck to get around. >> >> Here is the issue, the steering wheel is 'sticky' or grimy and using >> it for a short time, my hands feel disgusting. ?I've cleaned it and >> it feels nice for a few miles, but after less than an hour, it's back >> to being sticky/grimy. >> >> The steering wheel is the 'basic' (Vinyl?) type with no cover. ?Any >> ideas on how to clean it? ?Note, it seemed my old truck suffered from >> it as well, but since I was only using it when working, it didn't >> bother me. ?But now this truck is a primary for now. >> >> Thanks in advance! >> >> >> Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem. >> Tech Viper >> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a >> rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your >> territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson >> -Who is John Galt? > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rwil at sbcglobal.net Wed Oct 2 10:44:04 2019 From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (rwil at sbcglobal.net) Date: Wed, 02 Oct 2019 09:44:04 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Sticky steering wheel cleaning In-Reply-To: <5044dc81-276b-53b9-51aa-22310b05df5c@comcast.net> References: <5044dc81-276b-53b9-51aa-22310b05df5c@comcast.net> Message-ID: <6sk9pelochfsd0514sjnp5v7rgjiqdpojb@4ax.com> I bought it on Amazon recently and it arrived here. Try it and see. The Remover is very good and effective stuff. -Roland somewhere in Southern California On Wed, 2 Oct 2019 09:26:07 -0700, you wrote: > >My goto product for cleaning up any gooey mess is '3M Adhesive Remover' (not sold in California anymore so you know it works): > > >https://tinyurl.com/y4askrue From jniolon at att.net Fri Oct 4 10:33:07 2019 From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon) Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2019 11:33:07 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] used billboard vinyl for canopy Message-ID: Looking to replace my canopy on the front of my shop and tired of the H.F cheap tarps... but I don?t want to spend 150-200 bucks on a heavy duty vinyl replacement. I found used billboard vinyl signs for around 70 bucks (2.5 H.F. tarp cost) and they are much heavier than the poly stuff anyone have any experience with the vinyl signs ??? j https://jniolon.classicpickup.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From nogera at icloud.com Wed Oct 9 12:34:15 2019 From: nogera at icloud.com (Robert Nogueirao) Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2019 13:34:15 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Weird clutch petal Message-ID: <43374844-25FE-4546-9F35-49CBE7CA094D@icloud.com> I have a hydraulic clutch, Girling 5/8? master and a internal slave that fits over the input shaft. Both are new. Problem is I have a really good feeling petal, no leaks and good operation 90% of the time but occasionally when you depress the clutch to change gears the petal feels soft and will not fully release the clutch. Letting the petal out and again depressing it and the feel and release are again normal. Reservoir shows no lost of fluid. Since the slave is mounted on the input shaft and operates directly on the throw out bearing there is no linkage to cause the problem. Any suggestions as to what could be causing this problem? Bob Nogueira From patintexas at icloud.com Wed Oct 9 17:45:38 2019 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2019 18:45:38 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Weird clutch petal In-Reply-To: <43374844-25FE-4546-9F35-49CBE7CA094D@icloud.com> References: <43374844-25FE-4546-9F35-49CBE7CA094D@icloud.com> Message-ID: <36E6D506-0756-4E03-A744-2D09F3473C30@icloud.com> Bob, I?d put my $$ on the master cylinder being bad. Is it new or rebuilt? Is it possible that the master has been on the shelf for years & the seals are dried/cracked? What kind of fluid did you use? If it is a silicone based fluid there may be some bubbles gettin into the master. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity > On Oct 9, 2019, at 5:26 PM, Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk wrote: > ? I have a hydraulic clutch, Girling 5/8? master and a internal slave that fits over the input shaft. Both are new. Problem is I have a really good feeling petal, no leaks and good operation 90% of the time but occasionally when you depress the clutch to change gears the petal feels soft and will not fully release the clutch. Letting the petal out and again depressing it and the feel and release are again normal. Reservoir shows no lost of fluid. Since the slave is mounted on the input shaft and operates directly on the throw out bearing there is no linkage to cause the problem. Any suggestions as to what could be causing this problem? Bob Nogueira _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com From tomshirleysr44 at gmail.com Wed Oct 9 17:46:55 2019 From: tomshirleysr44 at gmail.com (Tom Shirley Sr.) Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2019 19:46:55 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Weird clutch petal In-Reply-To: <43374844-25FE-4546-9F35-49CBE7CA094D@icloud.com> References: <43374844-25FE-4546-9F35-49CBE7CA094D@icloud.com> Message-ID: Air in the lines? On Wed, Oct 9, 2019, 6:38 PM Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > > I have a hydraulic clutch, Girling 5/8? master and a internal slave that > fits over the input shaft. Both are new. Problem is I have a really good > feeling petal, no leaks and good operation 90% of the time but occasionally > when you depress the clutch to change gears the petal feels soft and will > not fully release the clutch. Letting the petal out and again depressing it > and the feel and release are again normal. Reservoir shows no lost of > fluid. > Since the slave is mounted on the input shaft and operates directly on the > throw out bearing there is no linkage to cause the problem. > Any suggestions as to what could be causing this problem? > Bob Nogueira > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tomshirleysr44 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com Wed Oct 9 18:03:03 2019 From: pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com (PJ McGarvey) Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2019 00:03:03 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Weird clutch petal In-Reply-To: References: <43374844-25FE-4546-9F35-49CBE7CA094D@icloud.com>, Message-ID: Sounds indicative of air in the lines, since the first pump is weak/soft, but as you pump it a few more times you get more pressure. Check for loose connections and then bleed a whole bottle of fluid. PJ ________________________________ From: Shop-talk on behalf of Tom Shirley Sr. via Shop-talk Sent: Wednesday, October 9, 2019 7:46 PM Cc: Shop-talk Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Weird clutch petal Air in the lines? On Wed, Oct 9, 2019, 6:38 PM Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk > wrote: I have a hydraulic clutch, Girling 5/8? master and a internal slave that fits over the input shaft. Both are new. Problem is I have a really good feeling petal, no leaks and good operation 90% of the time but occasionally when you depress the clutch to change gears the petal feels soft and will not fully release the clutch. Letting the petal out and again depressing it and the feel and release are again normal. Reservoir shows no lost of fluid. Since the slave is mounted on the input shaft and operates directly on the throw out bearing there is no linkage to cause the problem. Any suggestions as to what could be causing this problem? Bob Nogueira _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tomshirleysr44 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dhlocker at comcast.net Wed Oct 9 18:18:14 2019 From: dhlocker at comcast.net (Donald H Locker) Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2019 20:18:14 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Weird clutch petal In-Reply-To: References: <43374844-25FE-4546-9F35-49CBE7CA094D@icloud.com> Message-ID: It would sound like air to me, too, but that it works "90% of the time" which would indicate to me that one of the seals is not sealing properly. It's been a while, but I had a similar experience, and discovered that if I hit the pedal quick and hard, the clutch action was good; if not fast or hard enough, the pedal was soft. My guess is that a seal is old and not always flaring out to the MC bore when the pedal is pressed. Donald. -- *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue () no proprietary attachments; no html mail /\ On 2019-10-09 8:03 p.m., PJ McGarvey via Shop-talk wrote: > Sounds indicative of air in the lines, since the first pump is > weak/soft, but as you pump it a few more times you get more pressure. > Check for loose connections and then bleed a whole bottle of fluid. > > PJ > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Shop-talk on behalf of Tom > Shirley Sr. via Shop-talk > *Sent:* Wednesday, October 9, 2019 7:46 PM > *Cc:* Shop-talk > *Subject:* Re: [Shop-talk] Weird clutch petal > Air in the lines? > > On Wed, Oct 9, 2019, 6:38 PM Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk > > wrote: > > > I have a? hydraulic clutch, Girling 5/8? master and a internal slave > that fits over the input shaft. Both are new.? Problem is I have a > really good feeling petal, no leaks and good operation 90% of the > time but occasionally when you depress the clutch to change gears > the petal feels soft and will not fully release the clutch. Letting > the petal out and again depressing it and the feel and release are > again normal. Reservoir shows no lost of fluid. > Since the slave is mounted on the input shaft and operates directly > on the throw out bearing there is no linkage to cause the problem. > Any suggestions as to what could be causing this problem? > Bob Nogueira > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tomshirleysr44 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dhlocker at comcast.net > From nogera at icloud.com Fri Oct 11 21:46:17 2019 From: nogera at icloud.com (Robert Nogueirao) Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2019 22:46:17 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Weird clutch petal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Okay bleed the lines no solution, chance of air in the lines is remote, the slave is higher than the master, the run between them is only a foot or so and the line turns down for only a couple of inches between them. Additionally the bleederis at the highest point of the slave. The lines are new as is the slave and master. I did disassemble the master to check it out and it appears to be a Girling knockoff. The piston and reservoir shut off valve feel cheaply made. I?m thinking that the reservoir shutoff may be leaking a bit until pressure is built up thus forcing fluid into the reservoir rather than to the slave. Only way to check is order a new Girling master from Pegasus, basically a $125 gamble. Right now Donald and Pat are in the problem solving playoffs. Will advise if the gamble pays off Thanks for the suggestions. Bob Nogueira B > On Oct 9, 2019, at 7:18 PM, Donald H Locker via Shop-talk wrote: > > ?It would sound like air to me, too, but that it works "90% of the time" which would indicate to me that one of the seals is not sealing properly. > > It's been a while, but I had a similar experience, and discovered that if I hit the pedal quick and hard, the clutch action was good; if not fast or hard enough, the pedal was soft. > > My guess is that a seal is old and not always flaring out to the MC bore when the pedal is pressed. > > Donald. > -- > *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue > () no proprietary attachments; no html mail > /\ > >> On 2019-10-09 8:03 p.m., PJ McGarvey via Shop-talk wrote: >> Sounds indicative of air in the lines, since the first pump is weak/soft, but as you pump it a few more times you get more pressure. Check for loose connections and then bleed a whole bottle of fluid. >> PJ >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> *From:* Shop-talk on behalf of Tom Shirley Sr. via Shop-talk >> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 9, 2019 7:46 PM >> *Cc:* Shop-talk >> *Subject:* Re: [Shop-talk] Weird clutch petal >> Air in the lines? >> On Wed, Oct 9, 2019, 6:38 PM Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk > wrote: >> I have a hydraulic clutch, Girling 5/8? master and a internal slave >> that fits over the input shaft. Both are new. Problem is I have a >> really good feeling petal, no leaks and good operation 90% of the >> time but occasionally when you depress the clutch to change gears >> the petal feels soft and will not fully release the clutch. Letting >> the petal out and again depressing it and the feel and release are >> again normal. Reservoir shows no lost of fluid. >> Since the slave is mounted on the input shaft and operates directly >> on the throw out bearing there is no linkage to cause the problem. >> Any suggestions as to what could be causing this problem? >> Bob Nogueira >> _______________________________________________ >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tomshirleysr44 at gmail.com >> _______________________________________________ >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dhlocker at comcast.net > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/nogera at icloud.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From patintexas at icloud.com Fri Oct 11 22:15:35 2019 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2019 23:15:35 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Weird clutch petal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: You should be able to find a set of seals to try. Lots cheaper than a replacement master. In the past I found this kind of leak by having someone watching the fluid surface in the reservoir while I pressed the pedal down. On my master there was a rise of the fluid where the jet of fluid came out of the reservoir to cylinder hole, causing a ?lump? in the fluid surface, indicating a bad seal. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity > On Oct 11, 2019, at 10:46 PM, Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk wrote: > ?Okay bleed the lines no solution, chance of air in the lines is remote, the slave is higher than the master, the run between them is only a foot or so and the line turns down for only a couple of inches between them. Additionally the bleederis at the highest point of the slave. The lines are new as is the slave and master. I did disassemble the master to check it out and it appears to be a Girling knockoff. The piston and reservoir shut off valve feel cheaply made. I?m thinking that the reservoir shutoff may be leaking a bit until pressure is built up thus forcing fluid into the reservoir rather than to the slave. Only way to check is order a new Girling master from Pegasus, basically a $125 gamble. Right now Donald and Pat are in the problem solving playoffs. Will advise if the gamble pays off Thanks for the suggestions. Bob Nogueira B >> On Oct 9, 2019, at 7:18 PM, Donald H Locker via Shop-talk wrote: >> > ?It would sound like air to me, too, but that it works "90% of the time" which would indicate to me that one of the seals is not sealing properly. > > It's been a while, but I had a similar experience, and discovered that if I hit the pedal quick and hard, the clutch action was good; if not fast or hard enough, the pedal was soft. > > My guess is that a seal is old and not always flaring out to the MC bore when the pedal is pressed. > > Donald. > -- > *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue > () no proprietary attachments; no html mail > /\ > >> On 2019-10-09 8:03 p.m., PJ McGarvey via Shop-talk wrote: >> Sounds indicative of air in the lines, since the first pump is weak/soft, but as you pump it a few more times you get more pressure. Check for loose connections and then bleed a whole bottle of fluid. >> PJ >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> *From:* Shop-talk on behalf of Tom Shirley Sr. via Shop-talk >> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 9, 2019 7:46 PM >> *Cc:* Shop-talk >> *Subject:* Re: [Shop-talk] Weird clutch petal >> Air in the lines? >> On Wed, Oct 9, 2019, 6:38 PM Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk > wrote: >> I have a hydraulic clutch, Girling 5/8? master and a internal slave >> that fits over the input shaft. Both are new. Problem is I have a >> really good feeling petal, no leaks and good operation 90% of the >> time but occasionally when you depress the clutch to change gears >> the petal feels soft and will not fully release the clutch. Letting >> the petal out and again depressing it and the feel and release are >> again normal. Reservoir shows no lost of fluid. >> Since the slave is mounted on the input shaft and operates directly >> on the throw out bearing there is no linkage to cause the problem. >> Any suggestions as to what could be causing this problem? >> Bob Nogueira >> _______________________________________________ >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tomshirleysr44 at gmail.com >> _______________________________________________ >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dhlocker at comcast.net > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/nogera at icloud.com > _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From nogera at icloud.com Sat Oct 12 16:30:17 2019 From: nogera at icloud.com (Robert Nogueirao) Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2019 17:30:17 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Weird clutch petal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Pat thank, but having inspected the master it appears to be such a poorly made copy of a Girling I see nothing but trouble in the future.the piston does not slide smoothly in the bore leading me to think it is hanging up. Same with the reservoir cut off . Again thanks. Bob Nogueira > On Oct 11, 2019, at 11:15 PM, Pat Horne wrote: > > ?You should be able to find a set of seals to try. Lots cheaper than a replacement master. > > In the past I found this kind of leak by having someone watching the fluid surface in the reservoir while I pressed the pedal down. On my master there was a rise of the fluid where the jet of fluid came out of the reservoir to cylinder hole, causing a ?lump? in the fluid surface, indicating a bad seal. > > Peace, > Pat > > Pat Horne > We support Habitat for Humanity > > >>> On Oct 11, 2019, at 10:46 PM, Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk wrote: >>> >> ?Okay bleed the lines no solution, chance of air in the lines is remote, the slave is higher than the master, the run between them is only a foot or so and the line turns down for only a couple of inches between them. Additionally the bleederis at the highest point of the slave. >> The lines are new as is the slave and master. >> I did disassemble the master to check it out and it appears to be a Girling knockoff. The piston and reservoir shut off valve feel cheaply made. I?m thinking that the reservoir shutoff may be leaking a bit until pressure is built up thus forcing fluid into the reservoir rather than to the slave. Only way to check is order a new Girling master from Pegasus, basically a $125 gamble. >> Right now Donald and Pat are in the problem solving playoffs. >> Will advise if the gamble pays off >> Thanks for the suggestions. >> >> Bob Nogueira >> >> B >> >>> On Oct 9, 2019, at 7:18 PM, Donald H Locker via Shop-talk wrote: >>> >> ?It would sound like air to me, too, but that it works "90% of the time" which would indicate to me that one of the seals is not sealing properly. >> >> It's been a while, but I had a similar experience, and discovered that if I hit the pedal quick and hard, the clutch action was good; if not fast or hard enough, the pedal was soft. >> >> My guess is that a seal is old and not always flaring out to the MC bore when the pedal is pressed. >> >> Donald. >> -- >> *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue >> () no proprietary attachments; no html mail >> /\ >> >>> On 2019-10-09 8:03 p.m., PJ McGarvey via Shop-talk wrote: >>> Sounds indicative of air in the lines, since the first pump is weak/soft, but as you pump it a few more times you get more pressure. Check for loose connections and then bleed a whole bottle of fluid. >>> PJ >>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >>> *From:* Shop-talk on behalf of Tom Shirley Sr. via Shop-talk >>> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 9, 2019 7:46 PM >>> *Cc:* Shop-talk >>> *Subject:* Re: [Shop-talk] Weird clutch petal >>> Air in the lines? >>> On Wed, Oct 9, 2019, 6:38 PM Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk > wrote: >>> I have a hydraulic clutch, Girling 5/8? master and a internal slave >>> that fits over the input shaft. Both are new. Problem is I have a >>> really good feeling petal, no leaks and good operation 90% of the >>> time but occasionally when you depress the clutch to change gears >>> the petal feels soft and will not fully release the clutch. Letting >>> the petal out and again depressing it and the feel and release are >>> again normal. Reservoir shows no lost of fluid. >>> Since the slave is mounted on the input shaft and operates directly >>> on the throw out bearing there is no linkage to cause the problem. >>> Any suggestions as to what could be causing this problem? >>> Bob Nogueira >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tomshirleysr44 at gmail.com >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dhlocker at comcast.net >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/nogera at icloud.com >> > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com Mon Oct 14 21:39:15 2019 From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott Hall) Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2019 22:39:15 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] De-coupling overhead door torsion spring Message-ID: Got a new insulated garage door for winter here. Need to remove the old door. Torsion springs seem to be one of those things that drive emergency room visits in real life, not just internet clickbait. Before I just do what Google says, I think I'd like to hear from the real people on a subject like that. Can I somehow un-do the cable ends from the door, or the cables from the springs and then remove the door panels, or do I need to de-tension the torsion spring first? And if I need to de-tension it, what's the best method to avoid smashed skulls or broken limbs? Thanks in advance. Scott From mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org Mon Oct 14 22:29:34 2019 From: mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org (Jimmie Mayfield) Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2019 00:29:34 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] De-coupling overhead door torsion spring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <18af4ab1-11ad-473e-3c48-be60bb268716@sackheads.org> I'm normally a DIY-kind of guy.?? But there are some things where the price of goofing is just too high.? For me, garage door springs fall into that domain and I'm willing (not necessarily happy, mind you, but willing) to pay a tech to come out to deal with them.? It's not that I cannot learn to do it, it's just that a rookie mistake might lead to a permanent injury.? Given that a garage spring is one of those things that you probably only mess with once or twice (when I mine broke, the tech replaced it with a larger spring and said he'd be shocked if the new one didn't last at least 30 years), the amortized cost of paying someone else to take those risks is pretty small. On 10/14/19 11:39 PM, Scott Hall via Shop-talk wrote: > Got a new insulated garage door for winter here. Need to remove the > old door. > > > Torsion springs seem to be one of those things that drive emergency > room visits in real life, not just internet clickbait. > > > Before I just do what Google says, I think I'd like to hear from the > real people on a subject like that. Can I somehow un-do the cable ends > from the door, or the cables from the springs and then remove the door > panels, or do I need to de-tension the torsion spring first? > > > And if I need to de-tension it, what's the best method to avoid > smashed skulls or broken limbs? > > > Thanks in advance. > > > Scott > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org > From dhlocker at comcast.net Tue Oct 15 04:41:49 2019 From: dhlocker at comcast.net (Donald H Locker) Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2019 06:41:49 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] De-coupling overhead door torsion spring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I did it myself. Two steel rounds to provide leverage on the torsion shaft, moving them alternately around the torsion shaft, one holding the shaft in place and moving the second one to the next hole, picking up the tension on that one, the moving the first. After about two revolutions (eight holes) all tension was off; most tension was gone by 3/4 revolution. I would NOT recommend doing it yourself unless you are strong, confident, careful, thoughtful, and have good insurance. And NEVER stand in the line of the lever; always to the side of it. Donald. -- *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue () no proprietary attachments; no html mail /\ On 14-Oct-2019 23:39, Scott Hall via Shop-talk wrote: > Got a new insulated garage door for winter here. Need to remove the old door. > > > Torsion springs seem to be one of those things that drive emergency room > visits in real life, not just internet clickbait. > > > Before I just do what Google says, I think I'd like to hear from the real > people on a subject like that. Can I somehow un-do the cable ends from the > door, or the cables from the springs and then remove the door panels, or do > I need to de-tension the torsion spring first? > > > And if I need to de-tension it, what's the best method to avoid smashed > skulls or broken limbs? > > > Thanks in advance. > > > Scott > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dhlocker at comcast.net > From fishplate at gmail.com Tue Oct 15 05:51:26 2019 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2019 07:51:26 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] De-coupling overhead door torsion spring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: You need to de-tension the spring first - the spring is trying to pick up the door with the cable when it's down, and you would need to replace the weight of the door with a secure fastening - I'm not sure what that would look like, or how you would maneuver the cable from the door to the temporary restraint. AS for the spring, I used to be in the garage door business. I did this all the time. And I have a healthy respect for that spring - there's a lot of potential energy there that can go kinetic in the blink of an eye. As described elsewhere, you just use two rods...but...they have to match the sockets very closely or they can slip out. And you need to keep your skull out of the way of the rods. And even if you do it just right, you can still get hurt. There's no shame in calling in a professional who can let the tension off, swap the door out, and properly re-tension it for the weight of the new door. And depending on the age of the springs, they could be replaced at the same time. They break from time to time, and that's no fun... Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. On Mon, Oct 14, 2019 at 11:39 PM Scott Hall via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > Got a new insulated garage door for winter here. Need to remove the old > door. > > > Torsion springs seem to be one of those things that drive emergency room > visits in real life, not just internet clickbait. > > > Before I just do what Google says, I think I'd like to hear from the > real people on a subject like that. Can I somehow un-do the cable ends > from the door, or the cables from the springs and then remove the door > panels, or do I need to de-tension the torsion spring first? > > > And if I need to de-tension it, what's the best method to avoid smashed > skulls or broken limbs? > > > Thanks in advance. > > > Scott > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From brabel at comcast.net Tue Oct 15 08:58:16 2019 From: brabel at comcast.net (Bill Rabel) Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2019 07:58:16 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] De-coupling overhead door torsion spring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Scott - De-tension the springs first. You will need two steel rods, 12? - 18? long. 3/8? socket extensions work well. Put one rod into the hole in the collar with the securing bolts in it. Hold on to the rod when you loosen the bolts, and use the two rods to relieve the spring tension, 1/4 turn at a time. - Bill Rabel Anacortes, WA ?Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly and applying the wrong remedy.? - Sir Ernest Benn > On Oct 14, 2019, at 8:39 PM, Scott Hall via Shop-talk wrote: > > ?Got a new insulated garage door for winter here. Need to remove the old door. > > > Torsion springs seem to be one of those things that drive emergency room visits in real life, not just internet clickbait. > > > Before I just do what Google says, I think I'd like to hear from the real people on a subject like that. Can I somehow un-do the cable ends from the door, or the cables from the springs and then remove the door panels, or do I need to de-tension the torsion spring first? > > > And if I need to de-tension it, what's the best method to avoid smashed skulls or broken limbs? > > > Thanks in advance. > > > Scott > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/brabel at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com Tue Oct 15 09:51:21 2019 From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott Hall) Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2019 10:51:21 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] De-coupling overhead door torsion spring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Which bolts am I loosening, Bill? The ones that appear to hold to the shaft the fixture I'm going to be inserting the riffs into? Thanks. On Tue, Oct 15, 2019, 9:58 AM Bill Rabel wrote: > Scott - > > De-tension the springs first. You will need two steel rods, 12? - 18? > long. 3/8? socket extensions work well. > > Put one rod into the hole in the collar with the securing bolts in it. > Hold on to the rod when you loosen the bolts, and use the two rods to > relieve the spring tension, 1/4 turn at a time. > > - Bill Rabel > Anacortes, WA > > > ?Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it exists > or not, diagnosing it incorrectly and applying the wrong remedy.? - Sir > Ernest Benn > > On Oct 14, 2019, at 8:39 PM, Scott Hall via Shop-talk < > shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > > ?Got a new insulated garage door for winter here. Need to remove the old > door. > > > Torsion springs seem to be one of those things that drive emergency room > visits in real life, not just internet clickbait. > > > Before I just do what Google says, I think I'd like to hear from the real > people on a subject like that. Can I somehow un-do the cable ends from the > door, or the cables from the springs and then remove the door panels, or do > I need to de-tension the torsion spring first? > > > And if I need to de-tension it, what's the best method to avoid smashed > skulls or broken limbs? > > > Thanks in advance. > > > Scott > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/brabel at comcast.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From brabel at comcast.net Tue Oct 15 12:11:11 2019 From: brabel at comcast.net (Bill Rabel) Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2019 11:11:11 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] De-coupling overhead door torsion spring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The bolts hold the collar on the central shaft. Once the collar is loose, you are restraining it with the rod that is inserted in the collar. The force that the springs apply to the central shaft (when the bolts are tight) counteracts the weight of the door. > On Oct 15, 2019, at 8:51 AM, Scott Hall wrote: > > ? > Which bolts am I loosening, Bill? The ones that appear to hold to the shaft the fixture I'm going to be inserting the riffs into? > > Thanks. > >> On Tue, Oct 15, 2019, 9:58 AM Bill Rabel wrote: >> Scott - >> >> De-tension the springs first. You will need two steel rods, 12? - 18? long. 3/8? socket extensions work well. >> >> Put one rod into the hole in the collar with the securing bolts in it. Hold on to the rod when you loosen the bolts, and use the two rods to relieve the spring tension, 1/4 turn at a time. >> >> - Bill Rabel >> Anacortes, WA >> >> >> ?Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly and applying the wrong remedy.? - Sir Ernest Benn >> >> >>>> On Oct 14, 2019, at 8:39 PM, Scott Hall via Shop-talk wrote: >>>> >>> ?Got a new insulated garage door for winter here. Need to remove the old door. >>> >>> >>> Torsion springs seem to be one of those things that drive emergency room visits in real life, not just internet clickbait. >>> >>> >>> Before I just do what Google says, I think I'd like to hear from the real people on a subject like that. Can I somehow un-do the cable ends from the door, or the cables from the springs and then remove the door panels, or do I need to de-tension the torsion spring first? >>> >>> >>> And if I need to de-tension it, what's the best method to avoid smashed skulls or broken limbs? >>> >>> >>> Thanks in advance. >>> >>> >>> Scott >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/brabel at comcast.net >>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Tue Oct 15 15:55:35 2019 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2019 17:55:35 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] De-coupling overhead door torsion spring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Usually they are square-head bolts, in the fixture on the end of the spring farthest from the central rod support. On Tue, Oct 15, 2019 at 11:53 AM Scott Hall via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > Which bolts am I loosening, Bill? The ones that appear to hold to the > shaft the fixture I'm going to be inserting the riffs into? > > Thanks. > > On Tue, Oct 15, 2019, 9:58 AM Bill Rabel wrote: > >> Scott - >> >> De-tension the springs first. You will need two steel rods, 12? - 18? >> long. 3/8? socket extensions work well. >> >> Put one rod into the hole in the collar with the securing bolts in it. >> Hold on to the rod when you loosen the bolts, and use the two rods to >> relieve the spring tension, 1/4 turn at a time. >> >> - Bill Rabel >> Anacortes, WA >> >> >> ?Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it >> exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly and applying the wrong remedy.? - >> Sir Ernest Benn >> >> On Oct 14, 2019, at 8:39 PM, Scott Hall via Shop-talk < >> shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >> ?Got a new insulated garage door for winter here. Need to remove the old >> door. >> >> >> Torsion springs seem to be one of those things that drive emergency room >> visits in real life, not just internet clickbait. >> >> >> Before I just do what Google says, I think I'd like to hear from the real >> people on a subject like that. Can I somehow un-do the cable ends from the >> door, or the cables from the springs and then remove the door panels, or do >> I need to de-tension the torsion spring first? >> >> >> And if I need to de-tension it, what's the best method to avoid smashed >> skulls or broken limbs? >> >> >> Thanks in advance. >> >> >> Scott >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/brabel at comcast.net >> >> _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dhlocker at comcast.net Tue Oct 15 18:38:39 2019 From: dhlocker at comcast.net (Donald H Locker) Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2019 20:38:39 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] De-coupling overhead door torsion spring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <133a5b96-fad1-7000-dc51-fa0a4eccebb1@comcast.net> If you don't know which screws to loosen, I would suggest you haven't sufficient knowledge to undertake this operation and are putting yourself in danger. The forces are large, and if you can't see where they will be coming from, you WILL get hurt. Donald. -- *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue () no proprietary attachments; no html mail /\ On 2019-10-15 11:51 a.m., Scott Hall via Shop-talk wrote: > Which bolts am I loosening, Bill? The ones that appear to hold to the > shaft the fixture I'm going to be inserting the riffs into? > > Thanks. > > On Tue, Oct 15, 2019, 9:58 AM Bill Rabel > wrote: > > Scott - > > De-tension the springs first. You will need two steel rods, 12? - > 18? long. 3/8? socket extensions work well. > > Put one rod into the hole in the collar with the securing bolts in > it. Hold on to the rod when you loosen the bolts, and use the two > rods to relieve the spring tension, 1/4 turn at a time. > > - Bill Rabel > ? Anacortes, WA > > > ?Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it > exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly and applying the wrong > remedy.? - Sir Ernest Benn > > >> On Oct 14, 2019, at 8:39 PM, Scott Hall via Shop-talk >> > wrote: >> >> ?Got a new insulated garage door for winter here. Need to remove >> the old door. >> >> >> Torsion springs seem to be one of those things that drive >> emergency room visits in real life, not just internet clickbait. >> >> >> Before I just do what Google says, I think I'd like to hear from >> the real people on a subject like that. Can I somehow un-do the >> cable ends from the door, or the cables from the springs and then >> remove the door panels, or do I need to de-tension the torsion >> spring first? >> >> >> And if I need to de-tension it, what's the best method to avoid >> smashed skulls or broken limbs? >> >> >> Thanks in advance. >> >> >> Scott [snip] From bk13 at earthlink.net Tue Oct 15 21:28:01 2019 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2019 20:28:01 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] De-coupling overhead door torsion spring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <402aa0ac-7c07-b874-c3a5-ee9add2e7d4e@earthlink.net> Scott - I'd call a local garage door place for an estimate on the springs.? You might find it is very reasonable.? It is tough and you need the correct diameter steel rods that will fit the holes nicely.? Do not stand where the rod can hit you.? Since you are switching to an insulated door, it might be heavier, so you will have to tension the door differently. Installing a door is best as a two person job.? Maybe the installer has a guy that can stop by after hours and help you out for a reasonable amount. Brian On 10/14/2019 8:39 PM, Scott Hall via Shop-talk wrote: > Got a new insulated garage door for winter here. Need to remove the > old door. > > > Torsion springs seem to be one of those things that drive emergency > room visits in real life, not just internet clickbait. > > > Before I just do what Google says, I think I'd like to hear from the > real people on a subject like that. Can I somehow un-do the cable ends > from the door, or the cables from the springs and then remove the door > panels, or do I need to de-tension the torsion spring first? > > > And if I need to de-tension it, what's the best method to avoid > smashed skulls or broken limbs? > > > Thanks in advance. > > > Scott > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net > > From doug at dougbraun.com Sun Oct 13 10:07:05 2019 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2019 12:07:05 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Weird clutch petal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I agree, this certainly sounds like a problem with the reservoir shutoff valve not closing properly. If it were a problem with the main seals, a lot of fluif would have leaked out. I had the same problem develop in my Spitfire brake master cylinder. It turned out that the "tipping valve" (the shutoff valve for the forward half of the cylinder, was not seating properly. It was part of an aftermarket kit I had installed several years ago. I re-installed the original one (which I had kept), and the problem went away. The lesson: In many cases a new part in an aftermarket rebuild kit can be inferior to a used original part. Doug On Sat, Oct 12, 2019 at 6:30 PM Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > Pat thank, but having inspected the master it appears to be such a poorly > made copy of a Girling I see nothing but trouble in the future.the piston > does not slide smoothly in the bore leading me to think it is hanging up. > Same with the reservoir cut off . > Again thanks. > > Bob Nogueira > > On Oct 11, 2019, at 11:15 PM, Pat Horne wrote: > > ?You should be able to find a set of seals to try. Lots cheaper than a > replacement master. > > In the past I found this kind of leak by having someone watching the fluid > surface in the reservoir while I pressed the pedal down. On my master there > was a rise of the fluid where the jet of fluid came out of the reservoir to > cylinder hole, causing a ?lump? in the fluid surface, indicating a bad > seal. > > Peace, > Pat > > Pat Horne > We support Habitat for Humanity > > > On Oct 11, 2019, at 10:46 PM, Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk < > shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > > ?Okay bleed the lines no solution, chance of air in the lines is remote, > the slave is higher than the master, the run between them is only a foot or > so and the line turns down for only a couple of inches between them. > Additionally the bleederis at the highest point of the slave. > The lines are new as is the slave and master. > I did disassemble the master to check it out and it appears to be a > Girling knockoff. The piston and reservoir shut off valve feel cheaply > made. I?m thinking that the reservoir shutoff may be leaking a bit until > pressure is built up thus forcing fluid into the reservoir rather than to > the slave. Only way to check is order a new Girling master from Pegasus, > basically a $125 gamble. > Right now Donald and Pat are in the problem solving playoffs. > Will advise if the gamble pays off > Thanks for the suggestions. > > Bob Nogueira > > B > > On Oct 9, 2019, at 7:18 PM, Donald H Locker via Shop-talk < > shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > > ?It would sound like air to me, too, but that it works "90% of the time" > which would indicate to me that one of the seals is not sealing properly. > > It's been a while, but I had a similar experience, and discovered that if > I hit the pedal quick and hard, the clutch action was good; if not fast or > hard enough, the pedal was soft. > > My guess is that a seal is old and not always flaring out to the MC bore > when the pedal is pressed. > > Donald. > -- > *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue > () no proprietary attachments; no html mail > /\ > > On 2019-10-09 8:03 p.m., PJ McGarvey via Shop-talk wrote: > > Sounds indicative of air in the lines, since the first pump is weak/soft, > but as you pump it a few more times you get more pressure. Check for loose > connections and then bleed a whole bottle of fluid. > > PJ > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > *From:* Shop-talk on behalf of Tom > Shirley Sr. via Shop-talk > > *Sent:* Wednesday, October 9, 2019 7:46 PM > > *Cc:* Shop-talk > > *Subject:* Re: [Shop-talk] Weird clutch petal > > Air in the lines? > > On Wed, Oct 9, 2019, 6:38 PM Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk < > shop-talk at autox.team.net > wrote: > > I have a hydraulic clutch, Girling 5/8? master and a internal slave > > that fits over the input shaft. Both are new. Problem is I have a > > really good feeling petal, no leaks and good operation 90% of the > > time but occasionally when you depress the clutch to change gears > > the petal feels soft and will not fully release the clutch. Letting > > the petal out and again depressing it and the feel and release are > > again normal. Reservoir shows no lost of fluid. > > Since the slave is mounted on the input shaft and operates directly > > on the throw out bearing there is no linkage to cause the problem. > > Any suggestions as to what could be causing this problem? > > Bob Nogueira > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tomshirleysr44 at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dhlocker at comcast.net > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/nogera at icloud.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug at dougbraun.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From patintexas at icloud.com Tue Oct 15 10:35:09 2019 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2019 11:35:09 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] De-coupling overhead door torsion spring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Up until now this has all been a mental process, no physical damage can be done by it. Not to be a wet blanket, but we can not help you be safe by explaining which bolts to loosen, that could be a real safety problem for you. You need to find the installation manual for the door at a minimum. Or better yet, find someone who has done this work before to do it for you or show you how. Personally, I?d rather you be out a few $$ to have someone do it rather than many $$ for medical bills. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity > On Oct 15, 2019, at 10:53 AM, Scott Hall via Shop-talk wrote: > ? Which bolts am I loosening, Bill? The ones that appear to hold to the shaft the fixture I'm going to be inserting the riffs into? Thanks. > On Tue, Oct 15, 2019, 9:58 AM Bill Rabel wrote: > Scott - > > De-tension the springs first. You will need two steel rods, 12? - 18? long. 3/8? socket extensions work well. > > Put one rod into the hole in the collar with the securing bolts in it. Hold on to the rod when you loosen the bolts, and use the two rods to relieve the spring tension, 1/4 turn at a time. > > - Bill Rabel > Anacortes, WA > > > ?Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly and applying the wrong remedy.? - Sir Ernest Benn > > >>> On Oct 14, 2019, at 8:39 PM, Scott Hall via Shop-talk wrote: >>> >> ?Got a new insulated garage door for winter here. Need to remove the old door. >> >> >> Torsion springs seem to be one of those things that drive emergency room visits in real life, not just internet clickbait. >> >> >> Before I just do what Google says, I think I'd like to hear from the real people on a subject like that. Can I somehow un-do the cable ends from the door, or the cables from the springs and then remove the door panels, or do I need to de-tension the torsion spring first? >> >> >> And if I need to de-tension it, what's the best method to avoid smashed skulls or broken limbs? >> >> >> Thanks in advance. >> >> >> Scott >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/brabel at comcast.net >> _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com Tue Oct 15 10:39:50 2019 From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott Hall) Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2019 11:39:50 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] De-coupling overhead door torsion spring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Huh. I probably should mention that I too would prefer to pay someone for this. Apparently where I live is too rural and no one is willing to come out here and I'm tired of begging to pay someone to do it. It's also been two weeks and I'm going to go ahead and get this done. With that being said, any help? On Tue, Oct 15, 2019, 11:35 AM Pat Horne wrote: > Up until now this has all been a mental process, no physical damage can be > done by it. > > Not to be a wet blanket, but we can not help you be safe by explaining > which bolts to loosen, that could be a real safety problem for you. > > You need to find the installation manual for the door at a minimum. Or > better yet, find someone who has done this work before to do it for you or > show you how. Personally, I?d rather you be out a few $$ to have someone > do it rather than many $$ for medical bills. > > Peace, > Pat > > Pat Horne > We support Habitat for Humanity > > > On Oct 15, 2019, at 10:53 AM, Scott Hall via Shop-talk < > shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > > ? > Which bolts am I loosening, Bill? The ones that appear to hold to the > shaft the fixture I'm going to be inserting the riffs into? > > Thanks. > > On Tue, Oct 15, 2019, 9:58 AM Bill Rabel wrote: > >> Scott - >> >> De-tension the springs first. You will need two steel rods, 12? - 18? >> long. 3/8? socket extensions work well. >> >> Put one rod into the hole in the collar with the securing bolts in it. >> Hold on to the rod when you loosen the bolts, and use the two rods to >> relieve the spring tension, 1/4 turn at a time. >> >> - Bill Rabel >> Anacortes, WA >> >> >> ?Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it >> exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly and applying the wrong remedy.? - >> Sir Ernest Benn >> >> On Oct 14, 2019, at 8:39 PM, Scott Hall via Shop-talk < >> shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >> ?Got a new insulated garage door for winter here. Need to remove the old >> door. >> >> >> Torsion springs seem to be one of those things that drive emergency room >> visits in real life, not just internet clickbait. >> >> >> Before I just do what Google says, I think I'd like to hear from the real >> people on a subject like that. Can I somehow un-do the cable ends from the >> door, or the cables from the springs and then remove the door panels, or do >> I need to de-tension the torsion spring first? >> >> >> And if I need to de-tension it, what's the best method to avoid smashed >> skulls or broken limbs? >> >> >> Thanks in advance. >> >> >> Scott >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/brabel at comcast.net >> >> _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Tue Oct 15 10:53:22 2019 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2019 16:53:22 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] De-coupling overhead door torsion spring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <714985940.1253797.1571158402548@mail.yahoo.com> If you have seen it done it would be obvious but if you haven't maybe watching this video will help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AZOUUuRwUSI He is tensioning the spring here and what you want to do is the reverse but the technique is the same.? The bolts to loosen are the ones that secure the end of the spring to the shaft but make sure you stick a rod in the hole first.? Remember, there is a lot of stored energy in that spring.? If you don't feel confident, get professional help. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Scott Hall via Shop-talk To: Bill Rabel Cc: shop-talk at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Oct 15, 2019 10:53 am Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] De-coupling overhead door torsion spring Which bolts am I loosening, Bill? The ones that appear to hold to the shaft the fixture I'm going to be inserting the riffs into? Thanks. On Tue, Oct 15, 2019, 9:58 AM Bill Rabel wrote: Scott - De-tension the springs first. You will need two steel rods, 12? - 18? long. 3/8? socket extensions work well.? Put one rod into the hole in the collar with the securing bolts in it. Hold on to the rod when you loosen the bolts, and use the two rods to relieve the spring tension, 1/4 turn at a time.? - Bill Rabel? Anacortes, WA ?Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly and applying the wrong remedy.??- Sir Ernest Benn On Oct 14, 2019, at 8:39 PM, Scott Hall via Shop-talk wrote: ?Got a new insulated garage door for winter here. Need to remove the old door. Torsion springs seem to be one of those things that drive emergency room visits in real life, not just internet clickbait. Before I just do what Google says, I think I'd like to hear from the real people on a subject like that. Can I somehow un-do the cable ends from the door, or the cables from the springs and then remove the door panels, or do I need to de-tension the torsion spring first? And if I need to de-tension it, what's the best method to avoid smashed skulls or broken limbs? Thanks in advance. Scott -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From patintexas at icloud.com Tue Oct 15 12:41:02 2019 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2019 13:41:02 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] De-coupling overhead door torsion spring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6D198357-1FF9-4250-A4BF-9B9F379F0A57@icloud.com> Scott, that changes things a bit. Check out 4 or 5 videos on line to see how to do it. Don?t rely on any that are even slightly different from your door & go by videos where there are multiple videos that show the exact same thing. My door used 5/8? bars but the key is to use bars that ate correct for your door. Where are you located? Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity > On Oct 15, 2019, at 11:40 AM, Scott Hall wrote: > ? Huh. I probably should mention that I too would prefer to pay someone for this. Apparently where I live is too rural and no one is willing to come out here and I'm tired of begging to pay someone to do it. It's also been two weeks and I'm going to go ahead and get this done. With that being said, any help? > On Tue, Oct 15, 2019, 11:35 AM Pat Horne wrote: > Up until now this has all been a mental process, no physical damage can be done by it. > > Not to be a wet blanket, but we can not help you be safe by explaining which bolts to loosen, that could be a real safety problem for you. > > You need to find the installation manual for the door at a minimum. Or better yet, find someone who has done this work before to do it for you or show you how. Personally, I?d rather you be out a few $$ to have someone do it rather than many $$ for medical bills. > > Peace, > Pat > > Pat Horne > We support Habitat for Humanity > > >> On Oct 15, 2019, at 10:53 AM, Scott Hall via Shop-talk wrote: >> > > ? > Which bolts am I loosening, Bill? The ones that appear to hold to the shaft the fixture I'm going to be inserting the riffs into? > > Thanks. > >> On Tue, Oct 15, 2019, 9:58 AM Bill Rabel wrote: >> Scott - >> >> De-tension the springs first. You will need two steel rods, 12? - 18? long. 3/8? socket extensions work well. >> >> Put one rod into the hole in the collar with the securing bolts in it. Hold on to the rod when you loosen the bolts, and use the two rods to relieve the spring tension, 1/4 turn at a time. >> >> - Bill Rabel >> Anacortes, WA >> >> >> ?Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly and applying the wrong remedy.? - Sir Ernest Benn >> >> >>>> On Oct 14, 2019, at 8:39 PM, Scott Hall via Shop-talk wrote: >>>> >>> ?Got a new insulated garage door for winter here. Need to remove the old door. >>> >>> >>> Torsion springs seem to be one of those things that drive emergency room visits in real life, not just internet clickbait. >>> >>> >>> Before I just do what Google says, I think I'd like to hear from the real people on a subject like that. Can I somehow un-do the cable ends from the door, or the cables from the springs and then remove the door panels, or do I need to de-tension the torsion spring first? >>> >>> >>> And if I need to de-tension it, what's the best method to avoid smashed skulls or broken limbs? >>> >>> >>> Thanks in advance. >>> >>> >>> Scott >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/brabel at comcast.net >>> > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dirtbeard at gmail.com Wed Oct 16 06:43:32 2019 From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard) Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2019 05:43:32 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] De-coupling overhead door torsion spring In-Reply-To: <402aa0ac-7c07-b874-c3a5-ee9add2e7d4e@earthlink.net> References: <402aa0ac-7c07-b874-c3a5-ee9add2e7d4e@earthlink.net> Message-ID: HI Scott, I am a non-garage door expert, and was able to retention my garage door springs with no problem. I bought a three foot length of steel rod from Home Depot, cut it in half, taped up what would be the "handle" portion to reduce the chance of slippage, used an adjustable wrench on the square head retaining bolts and was able to do it myself with no problems. I have two sets of garage doors, and later adjusted the tension of the second door as it was closing too fast/hard. Having the bars at the ready allows one to make minor adjustments to the doors over time as the spring lose tension. I just keep them on the header beam above the doors so they are there when I need them next time. There is a good deal of tension on the springs, but if a normal man uses a degree of care, is standing on a decent ladder, and use both bars incrementally, sequentially, it is a very quick job to do. I am glad that I did it myself and now can "fine tune" the adjustment on the doors whenever necessary. best, doug On Tue, Oct 15, 2019 at 8:30 PM Brian Kemp via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > Scott - I'd call a local garage door place for an estimate on the > springs. You might find it is very reasonable. It is tough and you > need the correct diameter steel rods that will fit the holes nicely. Do > not stand where the rod can hit you. Since you are switching to an > insulated door, it might be heavier, so you will have to tension the > door differently. > > Installing a door is best as a two person job. Maybe the installer has > a guy that can stop by after hours and help you out for a reasonable > amount. > > Brian > > On 10/14/2019 8:39 PM, Scott Hall via Shop-talk wrote: > > Got a new insulated garage door for winter here. Need to remove the > > old door. > > > > > > Torsion springs seem to be one of those things that drive emergency > > room visits in real life, not just internet clickbait. > > > > > > Before I just do what Google says, I think I'd like to hear from the > > real people on a subject like that. Can I somehow un-do the cable ends > > from the door, or the cables from the springs and then remove the door > > panels, or do I need to de-tension the torsion spring first? > > > > > > And if I need to de-tension it, what's the best method to avoid > > smashed skulls or broken limbs? > > > > > > Thanks in advance. > > > > > > Scott > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at live.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dhlocker at comcast.net Wed Oct 16 07:58:51 2019 From: dhlocker at comcast.net (Donald H Locker) Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2019 09:58:51 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Weird clutch petal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7359991f-8814-9ab1-9b2c-9650666932af@comcast.net> Oooh - another Spitfire "tipping valve" fan! Donald. -- *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue () no proprietary attachments; no html mail /\ On 13-Oct-2019 12:07, Doug Braun via Shop-talk wrote: > I agree, this certainly sounds like a problem with the reservoir shutoff > valve not closing properly. > If it were a problem with the main seals, a lot of fluif would have leaked out. > > I had the same problem develop in my Spitfire brake master cylinder.? It > turned out that the > "tipping valve" (the shutoff valve for the forward half of the cylinder, > was not seating properly. > It was part of an aftermarket kit I had installed several years ago.? I > re-installed the original one > (which I had kept), and the problem went away. > > The lesson: In many cases a new part in an aftermarket rebuild kit can be > inferior to a used original > part. > > Doug > > > On Sat, Oct 12, 2019 at 6:30 PM Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk > > wrote: > > Pat thank, ?but having inspected the master it appears to be such a > poorly made copy of a Girling I see nothing but trouble in the > future.the piston does not slide smoothly in the bore leading me to > think it is hanging up. Same with the reservoir cut off . > Again thanks. > > Bob Nogueira > >> On Oct 11, 2019, at 11:15 PM, Pat Horne > > wrote: >> >> ?You should be able to find a set of seals to try. Lots cheaper than >> a replacement master. >> >> In the past I found this kind of leak by having someone watching the >> fluid surface in the reservoir while I pressed the pedal down. On my >> master there was a rise of the fluid where the jet of fluid came out >> of the reservoir to cylinder hole, causing a ?lump? in the fluid >> surface, indicating a bad seal. >> >> Peace, >> Pat >> >> Pat Horne >> We support Habitat for Humanity [snip] From jnew at hazelden.ca Wed Oct 16 12:16:37 2019 From: jnew at hazelden.ca (John P. New) Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2019 14:16:37 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] De-coupling overhead door torsion spring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4010830.69tZD5Mvt2@johnpc> Scott, First, I would echo what others have said and watch several how-to videos. The site that I referred to when I did my springs is DDM Gararage Doors; they have a very helpful and extensive DIY section, https://diygaragedoor.com/diy-instructions/ that covers changing many types of springs and sizing them as well. Second, when you get the rods that you are going to use to (de)tension the spring, you have to mark the rods so you have a visual cue as to when they have bottomed out in the holes of the winding cone. This very important, because if a rod isn't firmly in the winding cone it could come loose when under stress and you could lose control of the spring with all that entails. So, before you do anything, insert each rod into a winding cone hole; make sure that the hole is clean and free of debris. Make sure the rod is well and truly seated; usually a metal-to-metal thunk will let you know that. With the rod still in the hole, take a piece of tape (I used electrical) and wrap it once around the rod at the edge of the hole (see attached picture). When you have done this to both rods, compare the two: if they are not identical, take the tape off and do it again. To use the rods, EVERY time you insert one, you should look at the base of the rod and make sure that tape is snug against the winding cone hole. So, watch the videos, take your time, keep your head and as much of your body to the side of the rods away from the spring, and you should be fine. John P. New London, Ontario, Canada On Monday, October 14, 2019 11:39:15 PM EDT Scott Hall via Shop-talk wrote: > Got a new insulated garage door for winter here. Need to remove the old > door. > > > Torsion springs seem to be one of those things that drive emergency room > visits in real life, not just internet clickbait. > > > Before I just do what Google says, I think I'd like to hear from the > real people on a subject like that. Can I somehow un-do the cable ends > from the door, or the cables from the springs and then remove the door > panels, or do I need to de-tension the torsion spring first? > > > And if I need to de-tension it, what's the best method to avoid smashed > skulls or broken limbs? > > > Thanks in advance. > > > Scott > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jnew at hazelden.ca > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_3919.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 234490 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_3921.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 588650 bytes Desc: not available URL: From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Oct 16 22:20:06 2019 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2019 21:20:06 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] De-coupling overhead door torsion spring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <86FF817435464C89B1C6DEB78D5C6756@RYPC> It may not be necessary to loosen the bolts at all, since you are removing and replacing the door but (I assume) not replacing cables, etc. Again I'm not sure they are all the same, but when I had to replace one of the cables on my box trailer (which has a very similar spring mechanism to my overhead garage doors), I left the spring compressed with one of the tommy bars jammed against the door header. That let me R&R the cable with the door down (which for my trailer is the open position). I didn't mess with either of the bolts until I had to adjust the length of the cable (to lift the door evenly). If you aren't going to replace the cables, you may not have to mess with them at all. -- Randall 56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver 71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild 71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild > -----Original Message----- > From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Scott Hall via Shop-talk > Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2019 9:40 AM > To: Pat Horne > Cc: shop-talk at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] De-coupling overhead door torsion spring > > Huh. I probably should mention that I too would prefer to > pay someone for this. > > Apparently where I live is too rural and no one is willing to > come out here and I'm tired of begging to pay someone to do > it. It's also been two weeks and I'm going to go ahead and > get this done. > > With that being said, any help? > From dave1massey at cs.com Thu Oct 17 05:34:24 2019 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2019 11:34:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] De-coupling overhead door torsion spring In-Reply-To: <86FF817435464C89B1C6DEB78D5C6756@RYPC> References: <86FF817435464C89B1C6DEB78D5C6756@RYPC> Message-ID: <1174481031.1901676.1571312064756@mail.yahoo.com> Clever idea.? Just take the tension off of the cables and have at it.? But if it is an insulated door that is replacing an uninsulated door it will likely weigh more and the tension may need to be adjusted but one can cross that bridge when he comes to it. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Randall via Shop-talk To: 'Shop-talk' Sent: Thu, Oct 17, 2019 12:17 am Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] De-coupling overhead door torsion spring It may not be necessary to loosen the bolts at all, since you are removing and replacing the door but (I assume) not replacing cables, etc.? Again I'm not sure they are all the same, but when I had to replace one of the cables on my box trailer (which has a very similar spring mechanism to my overhead garage doors), I left the spring compressed with one of the tommy bars jammed against the door header.? That let me R&R the cable with the door down (which for my trailer is the open position).? I didn't mess with either of the bolts until I had to adjust the length of the cable (to lift the door evenly).? If you aren't going to replace the cables, you may not have to mess with them at all. -- Randall 56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver 71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild 71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild > -----Original Message----- > From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Scott Hall via Shop-talk > Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2019 9:40 AM > To: Pat Horne > Cc: shop-talk at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] De-coupling overhead door torsion spring > > Huh.? I probably should mention that I too would prefer to > pay someone for this.? > > Apparently where I live is too rural and no one is willing to > come out here and I'm tired of begging to pay someone to do > it.? It's also been two weeks and I'm going to go ahead and > get this done. > > With that being said, any help? > _______________________________________________ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dirtbeard at gmail.com Wed Oct 16 07:07:53 2019 From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard) Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2019 06:07:53 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Weird clutch petal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Yes, poor quality after-market parts can cause considerable grief. I changed out my gearbox sprocket on a 1972 BSA B50SS to what was supposed to be a high-quality after-market sprocket. The bike leaked gear lube from the day I installed it. I thought it was the seal or something else and and I tried numerous fixes until I just took it back out again and put a mic on it to find that the seal surface was so far out of round that it was not even being "shined" by the seal all the way around. Bit the bullet, found a high quality British-made sprocket for about 2X the price of the first one, installed it and it has not leaked a drop since then. I spent the better part of several days redoing a job that would not have been necessary at all if I had a high-quality replacement part in the first place. Bottom line is that there is a lot of junk being sold out there. The money saved by "rolling the dice" on this junk simply is not worth it for me anymore. Additionally, if we do not pay the price for the high-quality OEM-grade parts, they probably will cease to be produced and all we will have left if the after-market junk that is causing us all a great deal of grief. I will not buy eBay junk anymore. best, doug On Wed, Oct 16, 2019 at 5:52 AM Doug Braun via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > I agree, this certainly sounds like a problem with the reservoir shutoff > valve not closing properly. > If it were a problem with the main seals, a lot of fluif would have leaked > out. > > I had the same problem develop in my Spitfire brake master cylinder. It > turned out that the > "tipping valve" (the shutoff valve for the forward half of the cylinder, > was not seating properly. > It was part of an aftermarket kit I had installed several years ago. I > re-installed the original one > (which I had kept), and the problem went away. > > The lesson: In many cases a new part in an aftermarket rebuild kit can be > inferior to a used original > part. > > Doug > > > On Sat, Oct 12, 2019 at 6:30 PM Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk < > shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> Pat thank, but having inspected the master it appears to be such a >> poorly made copy of a Girling I see nothing but trouble in the future.the >> piston does not slide smoothly in the bore leading me to think it is >> hanging up. Same with the reservoir cut off . >> Again thanks. >> >> Bob Nogueira >> >> On Oct 11, 2019, at 11:15 PM, Pat Horne wrote: >> >> ?You should be able to find a set of seals to try. Lots cheaper than a >> replacement master. >> >> In the past I found this kind of leak by having someone watching the >> fluid surface in the reservoir while I pressed the pedal down. On my master >> there was a rise of the fluid where the jet of fluid came out of the >> reservoir to cylinder hole, causing a ?lump? in the fluid surface, >> indicating a bad seal. >> >> Peace, >> Pat >> >> Pat Horne >> We support Habitat for Humanity >> >> >> On Oct 11, 2019, at 10:46 PM, Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk < >> shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >> ?Okay bleed the lines no solution, chance of air in the lines is remote, >> the slave is higher than the master, the run between them is only a foot or >> so and the line turns down for only a couple of inches between them. >> Additionally the bleederis at the highest point of the slave. >> The lines are new as is the slave and master. >> I did disassemble the master to check it out and it appears to be a >> Girling knockoff. The piston and reservoir shut off valve feel cheaply >> made. I?m thinking that the reservoir shutoff may be leaking a bit until >> pressure is built up thus forcing fluid into the reservoir rather than to >> the slave. Only way to check is order a new Girling master from Pegasus, >> basically a $125 gamble. >> Right now Donald and Pat are in the problem solving playoffs. >> Will advise if the gamble pays off >> Thanks for the suggestions. >> >> Bob Nogueira >> >> B >> >> On Oct 9, 2019, at 7:18 PM, Donald H Locker via Shop-talk < >> shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >> ?It would sound like air to me, too, but that it works "90% of the time" >> which would indicate to me that one of the seals is not sealing properly. >> >> It's been a while, but I had a similar experience, and discovered that if >> I hit the pedal quick and hard, the clutch action was good; if not fast or >> hard enough, the pedal was soft. >> >> My guess is that a seal is old and not always flaring out to the MC bore >> when the pedal is pressed. >> >> Donald. >> -- >> *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue >> () no proprietary attachments; no html mail >> /\ >> >> On 2019-10-09 8:03 p.m., PJ McGarvey via Shop-talk wrote: >> >> Sounds indicative of air in the lines, since the first pump is weak/soft, >> but as you pump it a few more times you get more pressure. Check for loose >> connections and then bleed a whole bottle of fluid. >> >> PJ >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> >> *From:* Shop-talk on behalf of Tom >> Shirley Sr. via Shop-talk >> >> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 9, 2019 7:46 PM >> >> *Cc:* Shop-talk >> >> *Subject:* Re: [Shop-talk] Weird clutch petal >> >> Air in the lines? >> >> On Wed, Oct 9, 2019, 6:38 PM Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk < >> shop-talk at autox.team.net > wrote: >> >> I have a hydraulic clutch, Girling 5/8? master and a internal slave >> >> that fits over the input shaft. Both are new. Problem is I have a >> >> really good feeling petal, no leaks and good operation 90% of the >> >> time but occasionally when you depress the clutch to change gears >> >> the petal feels soft and will not fully release the clutch. Letting >> >> the petal out and again depressing it and the feel and release are >> >> again normal. Reservoir shows no lost of fluid. >> >> Since the slave is mounted on the input shaft and operates directly >> >> on the throw out bearing there is no linkage to cause the problem. >> >> Any suggestions as to what could be causing this problem? >> >> Bob Nogueira >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >> >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tomshirleysr44 at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dhlocker at comcast.net >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/nogera at icloud.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug at dougbraun.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at live.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From brabel at comcast.net Wed Oct 16 09:02:38 2019 From: brabel at comcast.net (Bill Rabel) Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2019 08:02:38 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] De-coupling overhead door torsion spring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I can?t stop adding my 2 cents. When the tension is right, you should be able to unlatch the door from the drive chain and lift the door easily by hand. This is important during a power outage. - Bill Rabel Anacortes WA ?Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly and applying the wrong remedy.? - Sir Ernest Benn > On Oct 16, 2019, at 5:59 AM, old dirtbeard via Shop-talk wrote: > > ? > HI Scott, > > I am a non-garage door expert, and was able to retention my garage door springs with no problem. I bought a three foot length of steel rod from Home Depot, cut it in half, taped up what would be the "handle" portion to reduce the chance of slippage, used an adjustable wrench on the square head retaining bolts and was able to do it myself with no problems. I have two sets of garage doors, and later adjusted the tension of the second door as it was closing too fast/hard. > > Having the bars at the ready allows one to make minor adjustments to the doors over time as the spring lose tension. I just keep them on the header beam above the doors so they are there when I need them next time. > > There is a good deal of tension on the springs, but if a normal man uses a degree of care, is standing on a decent ladder, and use both bars incrementally, sequentially, it is a very quick job to do. I am glad that I did it myself and now can "fine tune" the adjustment on the doors whenever necessary. > > best, > > doug > >> On Tue, Oct 15, 2019 at 8:30 PM Brian Kemp via Shop-talk wrote: >> Scott - I'd call a local garage door place for an estimate on the >> springs. You might find it is very reasonable. It is tough and you >> need the correct diameter steel rods that will fit the holes nicely. Do >> not stand where the rod can hit you. Since you are switching to an >> insulated door, it might be heavier, so you will have to tension the >> door differently. >> >> Installing a door is best as a two person job. Maybe the installer has >> a guy that can stop by after hours and help you out for a reasonable amount. >> >> Brian >> >> On 10/14/2019 8:39 PM, Scott Hall via Shop-talk wrote: >> > Got a new insulated garage door for winter here. Need to remove the >> > old door. >> > >> > >> > Torsion springs seem to be one of those things that drive emergency >> > room visits in real life, not just internet clickbait. >> > >> > >> > Before I just do what Google says, I think I'd like to hear from the >> > real people on a subject like that. Can I somehow un-do the cable ends >> > from the door, or the cables from the springs and then remove the door >> > panels, or do I need to de-tension the torsion spring first? >> > >> > >> > And if I need to de-tension it, what's the best method to avoid >> > smashed skulls or broken limbs? >> > >> > >> > Thanks in advance. >> > >> > >> > Scott >> > >> > _______________________________________________ >> > >> > Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk >> > http://autox.team.net/archive >> > >> > Unsubscribe/Manage: >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net >> > >> > >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at live.com >> > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/brabel at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From nogera at icloud.com Thu Oct 17 10:07:15 2019 From: nogera at icloud.com (Robert Nogueirao) Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2019 11:07:15 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] De-coupling overhead door torsion spring In-Reply-To: <1174481031.1901676.1571312064756@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1174481031.1901676.1571312064756@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <58CACA63-DEAA-425F-BAB6-EE60AECC47D6@icloud.com> I would add, if you lock the spring clamp a few lbs of weight to the cable to keep I tight on the drum. If it is totally loose it difficult to get it to wind up on the drum correctly. Bob Nogueira > On Oct 17, 2019, at 7:15 AM, DAVID MASSEY via Shop-talk wrote: > > Clever idea. Just take the tension off of the cables and have at it. But if it is an insulated door that is replacing an uninsulated door it will likely weigh more and the tension may need to be adjusted but one can cross that bridge when he comes to it. > > Dave -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 1789alpine at gmail.com Thu Oct 17 10:29:29 2019 From: 1789alpine at gmail.com (Jim Stone) Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2019 12:29:29 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Washer/dryer clearances Message-ID: We are finishing up our new cottage and ready to put the washer and dryer into the laundry closet. The cottage is only 780 sq ft, so everything was designed pretty tightly. Too tightly on the laundry closet, we have discovered. The recommended clearances for the stacked washer and dryer are 1? on each side, 1" in front, and 5 1/2? in back. The 5 1/2 in back is the problem. The units are 27? x 30?, so the recommended closet space is 29? by 36 1/2?. The closet is 38" x 34" when the door is closed, something I know my wife will want to do when the units are being used. So, we have more then enough room on the sides, but too little in the back, where the vents are. (FWIW: They only require about 7' of head room; we have 9?.) We haven?t put the units in yet, but there should be more than enough space for the plumbing and dryer vent. So, any thoughts? The closet door is a pocket door and we could fix the problem (or at least get close enough) by removing it and replacing it with a conventional door. But, that would add time and expense at a time when we feel like we are out of both. I always assume there is some wiggle room set by the factories on things like minimum clearance, but certainly don?t want to create a fire hazard or burn out an expensive appliance. We have more than enough total open area, but does that make up for the clearance in the back? Thanks, Jim p.s. Shop content: I discovered the problem when I was installing the overflow drain pan and running the drain pipes that will route any water from the basement into the garage. :) From dhlocker at comcast.net Thu Oct 17 12:00:41 2019 From: dhlocker at comcast.net (Donald H Locker) Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2019 14:00:41 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Washer/dryer clearances In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I think the 5-1/2" back clearance is for the dryer vent hose. If the appliance is too close to the back wall there will be no room. The hoses are (IIRC 4" diameter, and there needs to be a bit of room to make the right-angle bend out of the dryer base. Donald. -- *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue () no proprietary attachments; no html mail /\ On 17-Oct-2019 12:29, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote: > We are finishing up our new cottage and ready to put the washer and dryer into the laundry closet. The cottage is only 780 sq ft, so everything was designed pretty tightly. Too tightly on the laundry closet, we have discovered. The recommended clearances for the stacked washer and dryer are 1? on each side, 1" in front, and 5 1/2? in back. The 5 1/2 in back is the problem. > > The units are 27? x 30?, so the recommended closet space is 29? by 36 1/2?. The closet is 38" x 34" when the door is closed, something I know my wife will want to do when the units are being used. So, we have more then enough room on the sides, but too little in the back, where the vents are. (FWIW: They only require about 7' of head room; we have 9?.) We haven?t put the units in yet, but there should be more than enough space for the plumbing and dryer vent. > > So, any thoughts? The closet door is a pocket door and we could fix the problem (or at least get close enough) by removing it and replacing it with a conventional door. But, that would add time and expense at a time when we feel like we are out of both. I always assume there is some wiggle room set by the factories on things like minimum clearance, but certainly don?t want to create a fire hazard or burn out an expensive appliance. We have more than enough total open area, but does that make up for the clearance in the back? > > Thanks, > Jim > > p.s. Shop content: I discovered the problem when I was installing the overflow drain pan and running the drain pipes that will route any water from the basement into the garage. :) > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dhlocker at comcast.net > From ejrussell at mebtel.net Thu Oct 17 12:14:19 2019 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell) Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2019 14:14:19 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Washer/dryer clearances In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Any way to add clearance at the back wall? If it is not load bearing could you replace the 2X4 studs with 2X3s? If the limiting factor is clearance for the duct work can that be recessed into the back wall? We use a 'periscope' dryer vent. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Lambro-24-in-to-41-in-Adjustable-Periscope-Dryer-Vent/4566306 Eric Russell Mebane, NC On 10/17/2019 12:29 PM, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote: > We are finishing up our new cottage and ready to put the washer and dryer into the laundry closet. The cottage is only 780 sq ft, so everything was designed pretty tightly. Too tightly on the laundry closet, we have discovered. The recommended clearances for the stacked washer and dryer are 1? on each side, 1" in front, and 5 1/2? in back. The 5 1/2 in back is the problem. > > The units are 27? x 30?, so the recommended closet space is 29? by 36 1/2?. The closet is 38" x 34" when the door is closed, something I know my wife will want to do when the units are being used. So, we have more then enough room on the sides, but too little in the back, where the vents are. (FWIW: They only require about 7' of head room; we have 9?.) We haven?t put the units in yet, but there should be more than enough space for the plumbing and dryer vent. > > So, any thoughts? The closet door is a pocket door and we could fix the problem (or at least get close enough) by removing it and replacing it with a conventional door. But, that would add time and expense at a time when we feel like we are out of both. I always assume there is some wiggle room set by the factories on things like minimum clearance, but certainly don?t want to create a fire hazard or burn out an expensive appliance. We have more than enough total open area, but does that make up for the clearance in the back? From mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org Thu Oct 17 13:23:51 2019 From: mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org (Jimmie Mayfield) Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2019 15:23:51 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Washer/dryer clearances In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <825a19ca-8aad-75bb-ff3d-a7f68491c975@sackheads.org> Is the door louvered?? If not, you might run into problems when operating the dryer in such a small room with the door closed.? The dryer blower is going to be rated for a few hundred CFM and that air needs to come from somewhere. Folks often complain about their dryers leaving clothes damp and for many of them the problem can be traced back to dryer starved for air. Just something to keep in mind. On 10/17/19 12:29 PM, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote: > We are finishing up our new cottage and ready to put the washer and dryer into the laundry closet. The cottage is only 780 sq ft, so everything was designed pretty tightly. Too tightly on the laundry closet, we have discovered. The recommended clearances for the stacked washer and dryer are 1? on each side, 1" in front, and 5 1/2? in back. The 5 1/2 in back is the problem. > > The units are 27? x 30?, so the recommended closet space is 29? by 36 1/2?. The closet is 38" x 34" when the door is closed, something I know my wife will want to do when the units are being used. So, we have more then enough room on the sides, but too little in the back, where the vents are. (FWIW: They only require about 7' of head room; we have 9?.) We haven?t put the units in yet, but there should be more than enough space for the plumbing and dryer vent. > > So, any thoughts? The closet door is a pocket door and we could fix the problem (or at least get close enough) by removing it and replacing it with a conventional door. But, that would add time and expense at a time when we feel like we are out of both. I always assume there is some wiggle room set by the factories on things like minimum clearance, but certainly don?t want to create a fire hazard or burn out an expensive appliance. We have more than enough total open area, but does that make up for the clearance in the back? > > Thanks, > Jim > > p.s. Shop content: I discovered the problem when I was installing the overflow drain pan and running the drain pipes that will route any water from the basement into the garage. :) > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org > From pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com Thu Oct 17 14:21:05 2019 From: pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com (PJ McGarvey) Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2019 20:21:05 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Washer/dryer clearances In-Reply-To: <825a19ca-8aad-75bb-ff3d-a7f68491c975@sackheads.org> References: , <825a19ca-8aad-75bb-ff3d-a7f68491c975@sackheads.org> Message-ID: As the owner of a 2nd floor stacked w/d in a small space - I would also recommend the louvered doors. Though it's located in a small bathroom so even the bifold doors were removed for space reasons shortly after. A curtain might be easier. Also think about how hard it will be too remove them and the ducting when the w/d or vent needs service I've only had to do it twice in 10 years, but it was a real pain to get to. I also invested in sound absorbing pads that both units sit on when they were physically stacked on each other. A few years later I decided to make a shelf that the top unit (dryer) sits on so that both units are separated for less noise/vibration/squeaking as one or both are rocking and rolling while you try to sleep. PJ ________________________________ From: Shop-talk on behalf of Jimmie Mayfield via Shop-talk Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2019 3:23 PM To: shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Washer/dryer clearances Is the door louvered? If not, you might run into problems when operating the dryer in such a small room with the door closed. The dryer blower is going to be rated for a few hundred CFM and that air needs to come from somewhere. Folks often complain about their dryers leaving clothes damp and for many of them the problem can be traced back to dryer starved for air. Just something to keep in mind. On 10/17/19 12:29 PM, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote: > We are finishing up our new cottage and ready to put the washer and dryer into the laundry closet. The cottage is only 780 sq ft, so everything was designed pretty tightly. Too tightly on the laundry closet, we have discovered. The recommended clearances for the stacked washer and dryer are 1? on each side, 1" in front, and 5 1/2? in back. The 5 1/2 in back is the problem. > > The units are 27? x 30?, so the recommended closet space is 29? by 36 1/2?. The closet is 38" x 34" when the door is closed, something I know my wife will want to do when the units are being used. So, we have more then enough room on the sides, but too little in the back, where the vents are. (FWIW: They only require about 7' of head room; we have 9?.) We haven?t put the units in yet, but there should be more than enough space for the plumbing and dryer vent. > > So, any thoughts? The closet door is a pocket door and we could fix the problem (or at least get close enough) by removing it and replacing it with a conventional door. But, that would add time and expense at a time when we feel like we are out of both. I always assume there is some wiggle room set by the factories on things like minimum clearance, but certainly don?t want to create a fire hazard or burn out an expensive appliance. We have more than enough total open area, but does that make up for the clearance in the back? > > Thanks, > Jim > > p.s. Shop content: I discovered the problem when I was installing the overflow drain pan and running the drain pipes that will route any water from the basement into the garage. :) > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org > _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From brabel at comcast.net Thu Oct 17 14:53:25 2019 From: brabel at comcast.net (Bill Rabel) Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2019 13:53:25 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Washer/dryer clearances In-Reply-To: <825a19ca-8aad-75bb-ff3d-a7f68491c975@sackheads.org> References: <825a19ca-8aad-75bb-ff3d-a7f68491c975@sackheads.org> Message-ID: I had a similar situation. I found a galvanized steel skinny duct, about 3? x 6?, maybe three feet long, with a round inlet to fit the dryer, and a round outlet above the dryer to transition to round ducting. I?d try Amazon or Google. - Bill Rabel Anacortes ?Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly and applying the wrong remedy.? - Sir Ernest Benn > On Oct 17, 2019, at 1:12 PM, Jimmie Mayfield via Shop-talk wrote: > > ?Is the door louvered? If not, you might run into problems when operating the dryer in such a small room with the door closed. The dryer blower is going to be rated for a few hundred CFM and that air needs to come from somewhere. Folks often complain about their dryers leaving clothes damp and for many of them the problem can be traced back to dryer starved for air. > > Just something to keep in mind. > > >> On 10/17/19 12:29 PM, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote: >> We are finishing up our new cottage and ready to put the washer and dryer into the laundry closet. The cottage is only 780 sq ft, so everything was designed pretty tightly. Too tightly on the laundry closet, we have discovered. The recommended clearances for the stacked washer and dryer are 1? on each side, 1" in front, and 5 1/2? in back. The 5 1/2 in back is the problem. >> >> The units are 27? x 30?, so the recommended closet space is 29? by 36 1/2?. The closet is 38" x 34" when the door is closed, something I know my wife will want to do when the units are being used. So, we have more then enough room on the sides, but too little in the back, where the vents are. (FWIW: They only require about 7' of head room; we have 9?.) We haven?t put the units in yet, but there should be more than enough space for the plumbing and dryer vent. >> >> So, any thoughts? The closet door is a pocket door and we could fix the problem (or at least get close enough) by removing it and replacing it with a conventional door. But, that would add time and expense at a time when we feel like we are out of both. I always assume there is some wiggle room set by the factories on things like minimum clearance, but certainly don?t want to create a fire hazard or burn out an expensive appliance. We have more than enough total open area, but does that make up for the clearance in the back? >> >> Thanks, >> Jim >> >> p.s. Shop content: I discovered the problem when I was installing the overflow drain pan and running the drain pipes that will route any water from the basement into the garage. :) >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org >> > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/brabel at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From brabel at comcast.net Thu Oct 17 14:59:36 2019 From: brabel at comcast.net (Bill Rabel) Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2019 13:59:36 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Washer/dryer clearances In-Reply-To: <825a19ca-8aad-75bb-ff3d-a7f68491c975@sackheads.org> References: <825a19ca-8aad-75bb-ff3d-a7f68491c975@sackheads.org> Message-ID: <9DFF498D-B805-4294-AA6D-E5008CA3F49E@comcast.net> Here?s the skinny duct. It?s shorter than I remembered. < https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-4396037RP-Inch-Vent-Periscope/dp/B001AAEG6S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=whirlpool+4396037RP&qid=1571345903&sr=8-1> - Bill Rabel Anacortes ?Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly and applying the wrong remedy.? - Sir Ernest Benn > On Oct 17, 2019, at 1:12 PM, Jimmie Mayfield via Shop-talk wrote: > > ?Is the door louvered? If not, you might run into problems when operating the dryer in such a small room with the door closed. The dryer blower is going to be rated for a few hundred CFM and that air needs to come from somewhere. Folks often complain about their dryers leaving clothes damp and for many of them the problem can be traced back to dryer starved for air. > > Just something to keep in mind. > > >> On 10/17/19 12:29 PM, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote: >> We are finishing up our new cottage and ready to put the washer and dryer into the laundry closet. The cottage is only 780 sq ft, so everything was designed pretty tightly. Too tightly on the laundry closet, we have discovered. The recommended clearances for the stacked washer and dryer are 1? on each side, 1" in front, and 5 1/2? in back. The 5 1/2 in back is the problem. >> >> The units are 27? x 30?, so the recommended closet space is 29? by 36 1/2?. The closet is 38" x 34" when the door is closed, something I know my wife will want to do when the units are being used. So, we have more then enough room on the sides, but too little in the back, where the vents are. (FWIW: They only require about 7' of head room; we have 9?.) We haven?t put the units in yet, but there should be more than enough space for the plumbing and dryer vent. >> >> So, any thoughts? The closet door is a pocket door and we could fix the problem (or at least get close enough) by removing it and replacing it with a conventional door. But, that would add time and expense at a time when we feel like we are out of both. I always assume there is some wiggle room set by the factories on things like minimum clearance, but certainly don?t want to create a fire hazard or burn out an expensive appliance. We have more than enough total open area, but does that make up for the clearance in the back? >> >> Thanks, >> Jim >> >> p.s. Shop content: I discovered the problem when I was installing the overflow drain pan and running the drain pipes that will route any water from the basement into the garage. :) >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org >> > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/brabel at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 1789alpine at gmail.com Thu Oct 17 16:09:27 2019 From: 1789alpine at gmail.com (Jim Stone) Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2019 18:09:27 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Washer/dryer clearances In-Reply-To: <9DFF498D-B805-4294-AA6D-E5008CA3F49E@comcast.net> References: <825a19ca-8aad-75bb-ff3d-a7f68491c975@sackheads.org> <9DFF498D-B805-4294-AA6D-E5008CA3F49E@comcast.net> Message-ID: <6308E4AF-904D-48DE-B447-78B35AEE669F@gmail.com> Thanks, guys. I think there will be room to get a duct in, but it is going to be a pain in the butt and an extra couple of inches probably wouldn?t help that much. I hadn?t thought about a vent in the door - it is solid - but it is something to think about. My wife just told me she is happy to leave the door open when we are washing clothes, which surprised me. We?ll see how she feels when we?re actually doing that, but I could always put an HVAC vent in the door. At the moment, I am thinking the best course is to put the washer/dryer in with sound absorbing pads for the dryer. Building a shelf to isolate the two in an interesting idea that I hadn?t though of. I?ll probably just use the kit provided by the manufacturer - the unit is currently set up in my garage (more shop content!) and at least in there, it doesn?t seem to be a problem. Adding a shelf if needed is something I will definitely keep in the back of my mind, once we see how everything works in reality. Thanks again! Jim > On Oct 17, 2019, at 4:59 PM, Bill Rabel via Shop-talk wrote: > > Here?s the skinny duct. It?s shorter than I remembered. > > > > - Bill Rabel > Anacortes > > ?Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly and applying the wrong remedy.? - Sir Ernest Benn > > >> On Oct 17, 2019, at 1:12 PM, Jimmie Mayfield via Shop-talk wrote: >> >> ?Is the door louvered? If not, you might run into problems when operating the dryer in such a small room with the door closed. The dryer blower is going to be rated for a few hundred CFM and that air needs to come from somewhere. Folks often complain about their dryers leaving clothes damp and for many of them the problem can be traced back to dryer starved for air. >> >> Just something to keep in mind. >> >> >> On 10/17/19 12:29 PM, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote: >>> We are finishing up our new cottage and ready to put the washer and dryer into the laundry closet. The cottage is only 780 sq ft, so everything was designed pretty tightly. Too tightly on the laundry closet, we have discovered. The recommended clearances for the stacked washer and dryer are 1? on each side, 1" in front, and 5 1/2? in back. The 5 1/2 in back is the problem. >>> >>> The units are 27? x 30?, so the recommended closet space is 29? by 36 1/2?. The closet is 38" x 34" when the door is closed, something I know my wife will want to do when the units are being used. So, we have more then enough room on the sides, but too little in the back, where the vents are. (FWIW: They only require about 7' of head room; we have 9?.) We haven?t put the units in yet, but there should be more than enough space for the plumbing and dryer vent. >>> >>> So, any thoughts? The closet door is a pocket door and we could fix the problem (or at least get close enough) by removing it and replacing it with a conventional door. But, that would add time and expense at a time when we feel like we are out of both. I always assume there is some wiggle room set by the factories on things like minimum clearance, but certainly don?t want to create a fire hazard or burn out an expensive appliance. We have more than enough total open area, but does that make up for the clearance in the back? >>> >>> Thanks, >>> Jim >>> >>> p.s. Shop content: I discovered the problem when I was installing the overflow drain pan and running the drain pipes that will route any water from the basement into the garage. :) >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/brabel at comcast.net >> > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789alpine at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stearman809 at gmail.com Thu Oct 17 16:21:08 2019 From: stearman809 at gmail.com (Karl Vacek) Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2019 17:21:08 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Washer/dryer clearances In-Reply-To: <9DFF498D-B805-4294-AA6D-E5008CA3F49E@comcast.net> References: <825a19ca-8aad-75bb-ff3d-a7f68491c975@sackheads.org> <9DFF498D-B805-4294-AA6D-E5008CA3F49E@comcast.net> Message-ID: <16ddbcf7020.2800.cd27845553c78383775132770b7455be@gmail.com> I used a similar one 14 years ago to slant diagonally up a 2x4 wall. Still working just fine. The one I bought telescopes as I recall, and I used pretty much all the length. On October 17, 2019 4:29:29 PM Bill Rabel via Shop-talk wrote: > Here?s the skinny duct. It?s shorter than I remembered. > < > https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-4396037RP-Inch-Vent-Periscope/dp/B001AAEG6S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=whirlpool+4396037RP&qid=1571345903&sr=8-1> > > - Bill Rabel > Anacortes > > > ?Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it exists > or not, diagnosing it incorrectly and applying the wrong remedy.? - Sir > Ernest Benn > >> On Oct 17, 2019, at 1:12 PM, Jimmie Mayfield via Shop-talk >> wrote: >> Is the door louvered? If not, you might run into problems when operating >> the dryer in such a small room with the door closed. The dryer blower is >> going to be rated for a few hundred CFM and that air needs to come from >> somewhere. Folks often complain about their dryers leaving clothes damp and >> for many of them the problem can be traced back to dryer starved for air. >> >> Just something to keep in mind. >> >> >> On 10/17/19 12:29 PM, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote: >>> We are finishing up our new cottage and ready to put the washer and dryer >>> into the laundry closet. The cottage is only 780 sq ft, so everything was >>> designed pretty tightly. Too tightly on the laundry closet, we have >>> discovered. The recommended clearances for the stacked washer and dryer >>> are 1? on each side, 1" in front, and 5 1/2? in back. The 5 1/2 in back is >>> the problem. >>> >>> The units are 27? x 30?, so the recommended closet space is 29? by 36 1/2?. >>> The closet is 38" x 34" when the door is closed, something I know my wife >>> will want to do when the units are being used. So, we have more then >>> enough room on the sides, but too little in the back, where the vents are. >>> (FWIW: They only require about 7' of head room; we have 9?.) We haven?t >>> put the units in yet, but there should be more than enough space for the >>> plumbing and dryer vent. >>> >>> So, any thoughts? The closet door is a pocket door and we could fix the >>> problem (or at least get close enough) by removing it and replacing it with >>> a conventional door. But, that would add time and expense at a time when >>> we feel like we are out of both. I always assume there is some wiggle room >>> set by the factories on things like minimum clearance, but certainly don?t >>> want to create a fire hazard or burn out an expensive appliance. We have >>> more than enough total open area, but does that make up for the clearance >>> in the back? >>> >>> Thanks, >>> Jim >>> >>> p.s. Shop content: I discovered the problem when I was installing the >>> overflow drain pan and running the drain pipes that will route any water >>> from the basement into the garage. :) >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/brabel at comcast.net > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/stearman809 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Oct 17 16:16:32 2019 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2019 15:16:32 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Washer/dryer clearances In-Reply-To: <9DFF498D-B805-4294-AA6D-E5008CA3F49E@comcast.net> References: <825a19ca-8aad-75bb-ff3d-a7f68491c975@sackheads.org> <9DFF498D-B805-4294-AA6D-E5008CA3F49E@comcast.net> Message-ID: Here's a taller one https://amzn.com/B0049I9OYC https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-4396014-29-Inch-50-Inch-Periscope/dp/B0049I 9OYC?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2 If the vent to the outside doesn't happen to be in the wall behind the dryer, you can also use this style, plus some flexible hose https://amzn.com/B001AH3K72 https://www.amazon.com/Dundas-Jafine-UD48S-Straight-Outlet/dp/B001AH3K72?ref _=fsclp_pl_dp_7 Another option may be to put the duct inside the wall: https://amzn.com/B0049IBM7Y https://www.amazon.com/GENUINE-Whirlpool-4392892-29-Inch-Periscope/dp/B0049I BM7Y?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_8 -- Randall 56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver 71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild 71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild > -----Original Message----- > From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Bill Rabel via Shop-talk > Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2019 2:00 PM > To: Jimmie Mayfield > Cc: shop-talk at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Washer/dryer clearances > > Here's the skinny duct. It's shorter than I remembered. > < > https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-4396037RP-Inch-Vent-Periscope /dp/B001AAEG6S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=whirlpool+4396037RP&qid=> 1571345903&sr=8-1 > 1571345903&sr=8-1> > > > - Bill Rabel > Anacortes From nogera at icloud.com Sat Oct 19 21:16:46 2019 From: nogera at icloud.com (Robert Nogueirao) Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2019 22:16:46 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Grease fittings Message-ID: My car, a Morgan, needs to have the front suspension greased every 500 miles or so (hey it was designed in 1918 so what do you expect). The problem I have is every time I grease them I spend an hour fighting to get the grease to go into the nipple. I always end up with gobs of grease leaking out around the nipple. I tried changing the nipples but no joy with that. Any suggestions for a fix or the name of a really good fitting for the end of the gun that will seal and hold on to the nipple? Bob Nogueira From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com Sat Oct 19 21:35:00 2019 From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott Hall) Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2019 22:35:00 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Grease fittings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Bob, I don't have an answer, but I'd like to know as well--my lawnmower grease fittings have the same problem. Scott On Sat, Oct 19, 2019, 10:23 PM Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > > My car, a Morgan, needs to have the front suspension greased every 500 > miles or so (hey it was designed in 1918 so what do you expect). The > problem I have is every time I grease them I spend an hour fighting to get > the grease to go into the nipple. I always end up with gobs of grease > leaking out around the nipple. > I tried changing the nipples but no joy with that. > Any suggestions for a fix or the name of a really good fitting for the end > of the gun that will seal and hold on to the nipple? > Bob Nogueira > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/scott.hall.personal at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Oct 19 21:51:07 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2019 20:51:07 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Grease fittings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4cd8f58e-af4a-4419-530b-0543eb5ee97d@comcast.net> Here's a possible solution: https://locknlube.com/products/locknlube-grease-coupler?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6aGr8vap5QIVltJkCh0oSg7HEAQYASABEgKmzvD_BwE I've never used one, so can't vouch for sure, but looks like it would work.? Cheap Chinese knock-offs are available as well.? I've found that couplers that grasp the nipple really well are sometimes difficult to uncouple. Bob On 10/19/2019 8:35 PM, Scott Hall via Shop-talk wrote: > Bob, > > I don't have an answer, but I'd like to know as well--my lawnmower > grease fittings have the same problem. > > Scott > > On Sat, Oct 19, 2019, 10:23 PM Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk > > wrote: > > > My car, a Morgan, needs to have the front suspension greased every > 500 miles or so (hey it was designed in 1918 so what do you > expect).? The problem I have is every time I grease them I spend > an hour fighting to get the grease to go into the nipple. I always > end up with gobs of grease leaking out around the nipple. > I tried changing the nipples but no joy with that. > Any suggestions for a fix or the name of a really good fitting for > the end of the gun that will seal and hold on to the nipple? > Bob Nogueira > _______________________________________________ > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com Sat Oct 19 22:03:09 2019 From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott Hall) Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2019 23:03:09 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] De-coupling overhead door torsion spring In-Reply-To: <58CACA63-DEAA-425F-BAB6-EE60AECC47D6@icloud.com> References: <1174481031.1901676.1571312064756@mail.yahoo.com> <58CACA63-DEAA-425F-BAB6-EE60AECC47D6@icloud.com> Message-ID: Following up on this in case someone else searches this, or when I need to do again in ten years and have forgotten: The torsion spring is both every bit as worthy of respect as I thought, but also entirely user-serviceable. The delineation for this job shouldn't be, "do I know how to do this already/have I already done this?" but rather, "do I have the right tools and a healthy respect for the spring(s)?" The correct tools in this instance are two forged spring 'lever-ers' that fit into the springs' sockets and are knurled for grip. Use those, stand off to the side, and follow the procedure you guys outlined for me above. While there's plenty-enough torque to break a bone (or depress a skull fracture) if they get moving, there's much less than I expected--maybe less than 20 pounds. Having said all that, I'd still pay someone to do this, and it has less to do with the spring than the panels, rods, and tracks. The panels on a 16-foot door are awkward, the rod the spring sits on is as well, and adjusting the tracks to be quiet, etc. is more art than science. It's probably much easier on an eight-foot door, but those tracks will still be fussy. With two people, or one person that does this for a living, it's maybe an hour and a half. By yourself, and you do one every fifteen years? Plan on a reasonably-frustrating afternoon and a 16-foot door and its accoutrements are then a pain in the ass to haul off, even in a Super Duty pickup. Add the spring to that and just cut a check and do something more fun, or enjoy watching the professional take care of it for you. So this and an alternator in a 2003 VW TDI Beetle are worth paying someone else to do. This because it's $395 (if you can get them out to the house) and that's easily winning the cost/benefit hurdle and the Beetle because the alternative is a tenuous hold on sanity or a drinking problem when you're done. Scott On Thu, Oct 17, 2019, 11:49 AM Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > I would add, if you lock the spring clamp a few lbs of weight to the cable > to keep I tight on the drum. If it is totally loose it difficult to get it > to wind up on the drum correctly. > > Bob Nogueira > > On Oct 17, 2019, at 7:15 AM, DAVID MASSEY via Shop-talk < > shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > > Clever idea. Just take the tension off of the cables and have at it. But > if it is an insulated door that is replacing an uninsulated door it will > likely weigh more and the tension may need to be adjusted but one can cross > that bridge when he comes to it. > > Dave > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/scott.hall.personal at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org Sat Oct 19 22:31:55 2019 From: mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org (Jimmie Mayfield) Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2019 00:31:55 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Grease fittings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2e73d4b7-4ea8-9f38-1787-469e68d4c1a9@sackheads.org> I have the related problem.? I can't seem to disconnect from the zerks without using my channel locks. Maybe replacing the gun fitting is the answer? On 10/19/19 11:16 PM, Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk wrote: > My car, a Morgan, needs to have the front suspension greased every 500 miles or so (hey it was designed in 1918 so what do you expect). The problem I have is every time I grease them I spend an hour fighting to get the grease to go into the nipple. I always end up with gobs of grease leaking out around the nipple. > I tried changing the nipples but no joy with that. > Any suggestions for a fix or the name of a really good fitting for the end of the gun that will seal and hold on to the nipple? > Bob Nogueira > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org > From nick at landform.co.uk Sun Oct 20 03:06:40 2019 From: nick at landform.co.uk (nick brearley) Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2019 10:06:40 +0100 Subject: [Shop-talk] Grease fittings In-Reply-To: <4cd8f58e-af4a-4419-530b-0543eb5ee97d@comcast.net> References: <4cd8f58e-af4a-4419-530b-0543eb5ee97d@comcast.net> Message-ID: +1 on the LocknLube. It is quite bulky so if access is limited that could be a problem.Otherwise a useful item. Nick On 20/10/2019 04:51, Bob Spidell via Shop-talk wrote: > Here's a possible solution: > > https://locknlube.com/products/locknlube-grease-coupler?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6aGr8vap5QIVltJkCh0oSg7HEAQYASABEgKmzvD_BwE > > I've never used one, so can't vouch for sure, but looks like it would > work.? Cheap Chinese knock-offs are available as well.? I've found > that couplers that grasp the nipple really well are sometimes > difficult to uncouple. > > Bob > > On 10/19/2019 8:35 PM, Scott Hall via Shop-talk wrote: >> Bob, >> >> I don't have an answer, but I'd like to know as well--my lawnmower >> grease fittings have the same problem. >> >> Scott >> >> On Sat, Oct 19, 2019, 10:23 PM Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk >> > wrote: >> >> >> My car, a Morgan, needs to have the front suspension greased >> every 500 miles or so (hey it was designed in 1918 so what do you >> expect).? The problem I have is every time I grease them I spend >> an hour fighting to get the grease to go into the nipple. I >> always end up with gobs of grease leaking out around the nipple. >> I tried changing the nipples but no joy with that. >> Any suggestions for a fix or the name of a really good fitting >> for the end of the gun that will seal and hold on to the nipple? >> Bob Nogueira >> _______________________________________________ >> > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/nick at landform.co.uk > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gsteve at hammatt.com Tue Oct 22 21:21:44 2019 From: gsteve at hammatt.com (Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA) Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2019 20:21:44 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Hinge description assistance required Message-ID: I?m trying to correctly describe a type of hinge, but I?m not familiar with the nomenclature. I?m wanting to place to thick door panels at 90 deg to each other, but in the form of a ?T?, not an ?L?. When assembled, one side can ?fold? or ?close? down so that the two panels are parallel to each other, but when open, they would be locked in a ?T? formation because the movable panel cannot extend beyond 90 deg due to the interference of the movable panel?s edge against non-moving panel. Hope this makes sense. The problems are: The fingers (that encircle the hinge pin) must be flat against the panel on both sides The minge pin must be removable. In essence I?m using two hinges to connect to panels then fold the panels together, move the panel assembly into a small room, open and essentially make a 90 deg screen within a small area. Possible disassembly may be required in the future. How best to describe this type of box hinge? Super thanks, BTW this all applies to some improvements I?m making in my shop.........!! Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA www.leatherplates.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From patintexas at icloud.com Wed Oct 23 04:01:59 2019 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2019 05:01:59 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Hinge description assistance required In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5D0401C2-A1F6-482A-B01C-937E72AA37C1@icloud.com> Look into Soss hinges. They might do the trick. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity > On Oct 22, 2019, at 10:22 PM, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA via Shop-talk wrote: > ? I?m trying to correctly describe a type of hinge, but I?m not familiar with the nomenclature. I?m wanting to place to thick door panels at 90 deg to each other, but in the form of a ?T?, not an ?L?. When assembled, one side can ?fold? or ?close? down so that the two panels are parallel to each other, but when open, they would be locked in a ?T? formation because the movable panel cannot extend beyond 90 deg due to the interference of the movable panel?s edge against non-moving panel. Hope this makes sense. The problems are: The fingers (that encircle the hinge pin) must be flat against the panel on both sides The minge pin must be removable. In essence I?m using two hinges to connect to panels then fold the panels together, move the panel assembly into a small room, open and essentially make a 90 deg screen within a small area. Possible disassembly may be required in the future. How best to describe this type of box hinge? Super thanks, BTW this all applies to some improvements I?m making in my shop.........!! Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA www.leatherplates.com _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From peterwmurray at gmail.com Wed Oct 23 08:59:10 2019 From: peterwmurray at gmail.com (Peter Murray) Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2019 10:59:10 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Working on a "modern" car, 2004 Chevy Blazer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: So, what was the issue? We're waiting with bated breath! -Peter On Thu, Sep 26, 2019 at 8:21 PM Mark J Bradakis via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > On 9/26/19 2:09 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > > > > So, when it fails in Park, does it start in Neutral? > > > Hadn't thought of that, will check next time it happens. > > mjb. > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gsteve at hammatt.com Wed Oct 23 21:47:11 2019 From: gsteve at hammatt.com (Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA) Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2019 20:47:11 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Hinge description assistance required In-Reply-To: <5D0401C2-A1F6-482A-B01C-937E72AA37C1@icloud.com> References: <5D0401C2-A1F6-482A-B01C-937E72AA37C1@icloud.com> Message-ID: <043041CB8CC94EB0B3F88E3A60E82BA7@DESKTOPTOA1F5G> Thanks, but these won?t work, also I?d like the ability to remove the pin if desired. What I?ve decided upon was some strap hinges, the position of the pin surround design allowed a flush fit within a 90 deg corner. However, my supplier doesn?t stock any with removable pins, so I?m just planning to machine off one end and thus allow the pin to be removed when desired. Thanks everybody for the suggestions. Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA www.leatherplates.com From: Pat Horne Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2019 3:01 AM To: Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA Cc: Shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Hinge description assistance required Look into Soss hinges. They might do the trick. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Oct 22, 2019, at 10:22 PM, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA via Shop-talk wrote: ? I?m trying to correctly describe a type of hinge, but I?m not familiar with the nomenclature. I?m wanting to place to thick door panels at 90 deg to each other, but in the form of a ?T?, not an ?L?. When assembled, one side can ?fold? or ?close? down so that the two panels are parallel to each other, but when open, they would be locked in a ?T? formation because the movable panel cannot extend beyond 90 deg due to the interference of the movable panel?s edge against non-moving panel. Hope this makes sense. The problems are: The fingers (that encircle the hinge pin) must be flat against the panel on both sides The minge pin must be removable. In essence I?m using two hinges to connect to panels then fold the panels together, move the panel assembly into a small room, open and essentially make a 90 deg screen within a small area. Possible disassembly may be required in the future. How best to describe this type of box hinge? Super thanks, BTW this all applies to some improvements I?m making in my shop.........!! Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA www.leatherplates.com _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ed.reiss at hotmail.com Thu Oct 24 13:54:11 2019 From: ed.reiss at hotmail.com (Ed Reiss) Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2019 19:54:11 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] hinge with removable pins In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: A loose pin butt hinge is what you're looking for. I have used them many times to make something like what you want. They are most commonly used on doors throughout your house. ________________________________ From: Shop-talk on behalf of shop-talk-request at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, October 24, 2019 1:00 PM To: shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: Shop-talk Digest, Vol 13, Issue 192 Send Shop-talk mailing list submissions to shop-talk at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to shop-talk-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at shop-talk-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Shop-talk digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Hinge description assistance required (Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2019 20:47:11 -0700 From: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" To: Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Hinge description assistance required Message-ID: <043041CB8CC94EB0B3F88E3A60E82BA7 at DESKTOPTOA1F5G> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Thanks, but these won?t work, also I?d like the ability to remove the pin if desired. What I?ve decided upon was some strap hinges, the position of the pin surround design allowed a flush fit within a 90 deg corner. However, my supplier doesn?t stock any with removable pins, so I?m just planning to machine off one end and thus allow the pin to be removed when desired. Thanks everybody for the suggestions. Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA www.leatherplates.com From: Pat Horne Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2019 3:01 AM To: Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA Cc: Shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Hinge description assistance required Look into Soss hinges. They might do the trick. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Oct 22, 2019, at 10:22 PM, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA via Shop-talk wrote: ? I?m trying to correctly describe a type of hinge, but I?m not familiar with the nomenclature. I?m wanting to place to thick door panels at 90 deg to each other, but in the form of a ?T?, not an ?L?. When assembled, one side can ?fold? or ?close? down so that the two panels are parallel to each other, but when open, they would be locked in a ?T? formation because the movable panel cannot extend beyond 90 deg due to the interference of the movable panel?s edge against non-moving panel. Hope this makes sense. The problems are: The fingers (that encircle the hinge pin) must be flat against the panel on both sides The minge pin must be removable. In essence I?m using two hinges to connect to panels then fold the panels together, move the panel assembly into a small room, open and essentially make a 90 deg screen within a small area. Possible disassembly may be required in the future. How best to describe this type of box hinge? Super thanks, BTW this all applies to some improvements I?m making in my shop.........!! Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA www.leatherplates.com _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Shop-talk mailing list Shop-talk at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk ------------------------------ End of Shop-talk Digest, Vol 13, Issue 192 ****************************************** [https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-green-avg-v1.png] Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stearman809 at gmail.com Thu Oct 24 16:40:27 2019 From: stearman809 at gmail.com (Karl Vacek) Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2019 17:40:27 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Grease fittings In-Reply-To: References: <4cd8f58e-af4a-4419-530b-0543eb5ee97d@comcast.net> Message-ID: <003901d58abc$09225f70$1b671e50$@GMail.com> I?ve had a Lock ?n Lube for a few years now and it does work just fine, but as noted, it?s bulky. And for 30 bucks I don?t have one for each grease gun or even one for home and one for the airport. I recently tried once again to buy a conventional grease coupler that works, and these Milwaukee couplers do indeed work, though it?s not a religious experience: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LCU7I20/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8 &psc=1 They?ve got to be held absolutely straight onto the zerk nipple or they?ll leak ? not like old couplers that just clicked onto the zerk and sealed even with some misalignment. And you have to buy two. They seem to be a one-time assembly ? I don?t see any split where they?ll unscrew to loosen them or change the lock pieces, but whatever ? they mostly work despite being hideously expensive for simple grease couplers. Oh to go back to the 1960?s and buy a handful of regular Made in USA couplers that actually work properly. Karl nick brearley via Shop-talk Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Grease fittings +1 on the LocknLube. It is quite bulky so if access is limited that could be a problem.Otherwise a useful item. Nick On 20/10/2019 04:51, Bob Spidell via Shop-talk wrote: Here's a possible solution: https://locknlube.com/products/locknlube-grease-coupler?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6aGr8vap5QIVltJkCh0oSg7HEAQYASABEgKmzvD_BwE I've never used one, so can't vouch for sure, but looks like it would work. Cheap Chinese knock-offs are available as well. I've found that couplers that grasp the nipple really well are sometimes difficult to uncouple. Bob On 10/19/2019 8:35 PM, Scott Hall via Shop-talk wrote: Bob, I don't have an answer, but I'd like to know as well--my lawnmower grease fittings have the same problem. Scott On Sat, Oct 19, 2019, 10:23 PM Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk wrote: My car, a Morgan, needs to have the front suspension greased every 500 miles or so (hey it was designed in 1918 so what do you expect). The problem I have is every time I grease them I spend an hour fighting to get the grease to go into the nipple. I always end up with gobs of grease leaking out around the nipple. I tried changing the nipples but no joy with that. Any suggestions for a fix or the name of a really good fitting for the end of the gun that will seal and hold on to the nipple? Bob Nogueira _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/nick at landform.co.uk -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Sat Oct 26 08:02:22 2019 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2019 08:02:22 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Working on a "modern" car, 2004 Chevy Blazer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On 10/23/19 8:59 AM, Peter Murray via Shop-talk wrote: > So, what was the issue? We're waiting with bated breath! > It has been behaving lately, haven't had a chance to look at the problem. mjb. From dhlocker at comcast.net Sat Oct 26 18:29:40 2019 From: dhlocker at comcast.net (Donald H Locker) Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2019 20:29:40 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Working on a "modern" car, 2004 Chevy Blazer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8dd75eae-a896-7b1f-5510-4144968458c4@comcast.net> Figures. As a watched pot never boils, a watched glitch never glitches. Donald. -- *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue () no proprietary attachments; no html mail /\ On 2019-10-26 10:02 a.m., Mark J Bradakis via Shop-talk wrote: > On 10/23/19 8:59 AM, Peter Murray via Shop-talk wrote: >> So, what was the issue? We're waiting with bated breath! >> > > It has been behaving lately, haven't had a chance to look at the problem. > > mjb. > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dhlocker at comcast.net > From nogera at icloud.com Sat Oct 26 19:51:48 2019 From: nogera at icloud.com (Robert Nogueirao) Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2019 20:51:48 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Grease fittings In-Reply-To: <003901d58abc$09225f70$1b671e50$@GMail.com> References: <003901d58abc$09225f70$1b671e50$@GMail.com> Message-ID: Lock n? lube arrived yesterday and gave it a workout today. Eleven fittings and not once did I have grease bypass the nipple. No problem releasing the fitting from the nipple when done. Thanks guys for the recommendation. Bob Nogueira > On Oct 24, 2019, at 5:40 PM, Karl Vacek via Shop-talk wrote: > > ? > I?ve had a Lock ?n Lube for a few years now and it does work just fine, but as noted, it?s bulky. And for 30 bucks I don?t have one for each grease gun or even one for home and one for the airport. > > I recently tried once again to buy a conventional grease coupler that works, and these Milwaukee couplers do indeed work, though it?s not a religious experience: > https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LCU7I20/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 > > They?ve got to be held absolutely straight onto the zerk nipple or they?ll leak ? not like old couplers that just clicked onto the zerk and sealed even with some misalignment. And you have to buy two. They seem to be a one-time assembly ? I don?t see any split where they?ll unscrew to loosen them or change the lock pieces, but whatever ? they mostly work despite being hideously expensive for simple grease couplers. > > Oh to go back to the 1960?s and buy a handful of regular Made in USA couplers that actually work properly. > > Karl > > > > > nick brearley via Shop-talk > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Grease fittings > > +1 on the LocknLube. It is quite bulky so if access is limited that could be a problem.Otherwise a useful item. > > Nick > > > > On 20/10/2019 04:51, Bob Spidell via Shop-talk wrote: > Here's a possible solution: > > https://locknlube.com/products/locknlube-grease-coupler?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6aGr8vap5QIVltJkCh0oSg7HEAQYASABEgKmzvD_BwE > > I've never used one, so can't vouch for sure, but looks like it would work. Cheap Chinese knock-offs are available as well. I've found that couplers that grasp the nipple really well are sometimes difficult to uncouple. > > Bob > > On 10/19/2019 8:35 PM, Scott Hall via Shop-talk wrote: > Bob, > > I don't have an answer, but I'd like to know as well--my lawnmower grease fittings have the same problem. > > Scott > > On Sat, Oct 19, 2019, 10:23 PM Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk wrote: > > My car, a Morgan, needs to have the front suspension greased every 500 miles or so (hey it was designed in 1918 so what do you expect). The problem I have is every time I grease them I spend an hour fighting to get the grease to go into the nipple. I always end up with gobs of grease leaking out around the nipple. > I tried changing the nipples but no joy with that. > Any suggestions for a fix or the name of a really good fitting for the end of the gun that will seal and hold on to the nipple? > Bob Nogueira > _______________________________________________ > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/nick at landform.co.uk > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/nogera at icloud.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: