[Shop-talk] Winterizing Sprinkler System

[Jim Stone]

Thanks, guys.  I just bought the adapter; it will be here on Thursday, well ahead of any freezing temperatures.

John’s comment about a backflow preventer valve does have me rethinking one aspect of my plan.  The system installer put in an outside hose barb that he intended for blowing out the system, but I had thought it made sense to move ahead of that and start where the system originates in the basement.  I can isolate the sprinkler from the rest of the system and blow it out from there.  Unless there is a good reason not to do it that.  If there is a backflow preventer valve between the hose barb and the basement, might there be a problem blowing it out from there?

Jim

> On Nov 5, 2019, at 12:16 PM, Steven Trovato via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Jim,
> I rigged up an adapter like that many years ago and I have been using it every time I need to winterize a sprinkler system, summer home or other similar tasks.  I usually run a garden hose from whatever drain valve I want to the compressor.  I use my adapter at the compressor end of the garden hose to connect to the air supply.  I have enough garden hose that routing to the drain valve isn't really a problem.  I don't need a lot of air pressure, but I blast a lot of air volume through to push the water out.  My main garage compressor is my first choice, but I have used a smaller portable one and it did OK.  As for purchasing that adapter, I would do it.  I don't know if such a thing existed when I made mine.  Twenty bucks would be worth it to me for the convenience.  Of course, if you have the pieces already and you don't want to wait for an adapter to arrive, making it would also be a reasonable thing to do.  I don't have a shutoff on mine and I don't really miss it.  
> 
> -Steve 
> 
> At 11:32 AM 11/5/2019, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote:
>> I need to drain and winterize my new sprinkler system and can’t imagine I need to pay someone to do that job.  While I understand the ‘proper’ way to do it is to manually open each valve, I was told a few years ago that it is easier to just pressurize the system at the drain valve and then use the manual function on the controller to run through each zone until no more water comes out.  (FWIW, my system is not that large and has 6 zones.). I was thinking about rigging something up that would allow me to attach my compressor and walk away, but found this on Amazon, which seems like a good investment that would pay for itself on the first use: https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B0055QAAIQ/ref=asc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309735714375&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11131050794144962178&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004590&hvtargid=pla-570302725618&psc=1 <https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B0055QAAIQ/ref=asc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309735714375&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11131050794144962178&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004590&hvtargid=pla-570302725618&psc=1> . I could save around $10 and just buy a hose to quick disconnect fitting, but the shut off valve seems like a good addition.
>> 
>> I have fairly large compressor, but think it will be more trouble than it is worth to get air to the master drain valve.  Instead, I was planning on just using my Harbor Freight 8 gal portable compressor.  ( https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-68740.html <https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-68740.html> ).   My water pressure is regulated to 60 lbs, so I figured something around this should be sufficient.
>> 
>> Am I missing anything?  Is there any good reason to pay a professional to do this job?  It seems like a no-brainer to me, but I’ve been called a no-brainer before.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Jim
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