From bjzwissler at gmail.com Tue Jul 2 10:11:12 2019 From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Benjamin Zwissler) Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2019 12:11:12 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] It's hot and I want AC Message-ID: Anyone installed a mini-split AC system in their shop? It looks like its effective and can save a bunch of money if you do it yourself. My problem is sizing it. I've got about 1000 sq ft (35 x 28) with 17' ceilings. Two insulated overhead doors (12x14 and 10x10). The shop is reasonably well insulated (mostly) and I'm in southern Indiana (often low-mid 90's and humid). I'd probably put it midway up the wall and have it blow out into the bays. I'm considering buying an initial 2 or 3 ton unit and then I can add one if its not enough. I'm also wondering whether those of you who have AC run it all the time or only when you're in the shop? Suggestions? Ben..... -- Ben Zwissler bjzwissler at gmail.com Columbus, IN -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com Tue Jul 2 11:04:39 2019 From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott Hall) Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2019 12:04:39 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] It's hot and I want AC In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I'm curious to hear about the DIY part. No experience myself. On Tue, Jul 2, 2019, 11:11 AM Benjamin Zwissler via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > Anyone installed a mini-split AC system in their shop? It looks like its > effective and can save a bunch of money if you do it yourself. My problem > is sizing it. I've got about 1000 sq ft (35 x 28) with 17' ceilings. Two > insulated overhead doors (12x14 and 10x10). The shop is reasonably well > insulated (mostly) and I'm in southern Indiana (often low-mid 90's and > humid). I'd probably put it midway up the wall and have it blow out into > the bays. > > I'm considering buying an initial 2 or 3 ton unit and then I can add one > if its not enough. I'm also wondering whether those of you who have AC run > it all the time or only when you're in the shop? > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ronnie.day at gmail.com Tue Jul 2 11:09:56 2019 From: ronnie.day at gmail.com (Ronnie Day) Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2019 12:09:56 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] It's hot and I want AC In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: >From what I understand most companies won't honor warranty claims if these units aren't installed by a licensed/approved installer. You might want to check that out. RD On Tue, Jul 2, 2019 at 12:05 PM Scott Hall via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > I'm curious to hear about the DIY part. No experience myself. > On Tue, Jul 2, 2019, 11:11 AM Benjamin Zwissler via Shop-talk < > shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> Anyone installed a mini-split AC system in their shop? It looks like its >> effective and can save a bunch of money if you do it yourself. My problem >> is sizing it. I've got about 1000 sq ft (35 x 28) with 17' ceilings. Two >> insulated overhead doors (12x14 and 10x10). The shop is reasonably well >> insulated (mostly) and I'm in southern Indiana (often low-mid 90's and >> humid). I'd probably put it midway up the wall and have it blow out into >> the bays. >> >> I'm considering buying an initial 2 or 3 ton unit and then I can add one >> if its not enough. I'm also wondering whether those of you who have AC run >> it all the time or only when you're in the shop? >> > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ronnie.day at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ejrussell at mebtel.net Tue Jul 2 11:37:56 2019 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell) Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2019 13:37:56 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] It's hot and I want AC In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I installed a couple of ductless mini-splits a few years ago (one for the garage, the other for the bonus room above the garage). At the time the local HVAC companies didn't seem to know very much about them and wanted what seemed to me an exorbitant fee to install them. When we built the garage I had the electrician put a pair of disconnects where I planned to place the outside units. So I decided to DIY. The installation is quite simple. The outdoor units are bolted down to a concrete pad (alternatively they can be mounted on wall brackets), the inside units are hung on a metal plate screwed to the wall. There are copper pipes connecting the two units (for refrigerant), a drain line (for condensate) and some low voltage wires. They come pre-filed with refrigerant but once installed I did pay an HVAC technician to vacuum the lines and check the refrigerant charge. I like them very much. I don't run them every day. When I plan to work in the garage I press a button, eat breakfast and then the garage is cooled (or heated - mini-splits work both ways). They are very efficient - our electric bill increased less than $20/month. The heating system does lose efficiency when the outside temps are below ~ 30F. Some units have a back up electric heating element but that may be an expensive heating method. Eric Russell Mebane, NC On 7/2/2019 12:11 PM, Benjamin Zwissler via Shop-talk wrote: > Anyone installed a mini-split AC system in their shop?? It looks like > its effective and can save a bunch of money if you do it yourself. From bjzwissler at gmail.com Tue Jul 2 12:33:34 2019 From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Benjamin Zwissler) Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2019 14:33:34 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] It's hot and I want AC In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks for the responses. To the comment about warranty and professional installation, there are some units specifically marketed as "DIY" and from what I can tell they come precharged and the hoses pierce a seal on one of the units when they're connected. Not sure if this permitted in all states, but if they're marketed as DIY that should ensure the warranty is valid. Ben.... On Tue, Jul 2, 2019 at 1:38 PM Eric Russell via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > I installed a couple of ductless mini-splits a few years ago (one for > the garage, the other for the bonus room above the garage). At the time > the local HVAC companies didn't seem to know very much about them and > wanted what seemed to me an exorbitant fee to install them. When we > built the garage I had the electrician put a pair of disconnects where I > planned to place the outside units. So I decided to DIY. The > installation is quite simple. The outdoor units are bolted down to a > concrete pad (alternatively they can be mounted on wall brackets), the > inside units are hung on a metal plate screwed to the wall. There are > copper pipes connecting the two units (for refrigerant), a drain line > (for condensate) and some low voltage wires. They come pre-filed with > refrigerant but once installed I did pay an HVAC technician to vacuum > the lines and check the refrigerant charge. > > I like them very much. I don't run them every day. When I plan to work > in the garage I press a button, eat breakfast and then the garage is > cooled (or heated - mini-splits work both ways). They are very efficient > - our electric bill increased less than $20/month. The heating system > does lose efficiency when the outside temps are below ~ 30F. Some units > have a back up electric heating element but that may be an expensive > heating method. > > Eric Russell > Mebane, NC > > On 7/2/2019 12:11 PM, Benjamin Zwissler via Shop-talk wrote: > > Anyone installed a mini-split AC system in their shop? It looks like > > its effective and can save a bunch of money if you do it yourself. > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler at gmail.com > > -- Ben Zwissler bjzwissler at gmail.com Columbus, IN -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From battmain at yahoo.com Tue Jul 2 14:41:26 2019 From: battmain at yahoo.com (Battmain battmain) Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2019 16:41:26 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] It's hot and I want AC Message-ID: I did a mini split unit for my master bedroom. The hardest part was getting through the 12" poured concrete at the base of the roof to run the lines outside. A rented hammer chisel took about 2hrs and a lot of cussing. I love the unit though and so does my wallet. The central AC does not have to be set as cold and the mini split runs when I am in the room. The online electrical stats show the unit pulling less power than my toaster oven most of the time. There are quite a few calculators out in the web to help with sizing, but consider also the dual or triple output units? instead of just a single output. That way if one can't cool the space, you can use the others to help. These things are so efficient I was considering ripping out the central AC I just put in and adding one to each space in the house. Install was relatively easy other than the concrete part and was a much easier than the central AC install. B Sent from my brick phone On Jul 2, 2019 12:11, Benjamin Zwissler via Shop-talk wrote: > > Anyone installed a mini-split AC system in their shop?? It looks like its effective and can save a bunch of money if you do it yourself.? My problem is sizing it.? I've got about 1000 sq ft (35 x 28) with 17' ceilings.? Two insulated overhead doors (12x14 and 10x10).? The shop is reasonably well insulated (mostly) and I'm in southern Indiana (often low-mid 90's and humid).? I'd probably put it midway up the wall and have it blow out into the bays. > > I'm considering buying an initial 2 or 3 ton unit and then I can add one if its not enough.? I'm also wondering whether those of you who have AC run it all the time or only when you're in the shop? > > Suggestions? > > Ben..... > > -- > Ben Zwissler > bjzwissler at gmail.com > Columbus, IN -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com Tue Jul 2 15:24:48 2019 From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott Hall) Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2019 16:24:48 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] It's hot and I want AC In-Reply-To: <20190702204208.943D9A0362@autox.team.net> References: <20190702204208.943D9A0362@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Ben, This is exactly my interest in a mini-split--I can keep the master bedroom cool and the rest of the house at 75 degrees. As far as warranties, I'm about to have to replace a four year-old central a/c system on my dime still very much under warranty and installed by a professional...so I'm failing to see the value in warranties right now. The only issue I'll have with a mini-split, besides that the outdoor unit will be hanging twenty feet in the air is that the indoor unit isn't meeting the aesthetic requirements imposed. I mean, she's right--it is kind of ugly, but being able to keep the master bedroom at 65 degrees for cheap has a beauty all its own. Scott On Tue, Jul 2, 2019 at 3:42 PM Battmain battmain via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > I did a mini split unit for my master bedroom. The hardest part was > getting through the 12" poured concrete at the base of the roof to run the > lines outside. A rented hammer chisel took about 2hrs and a lot of cussing. > I love the unit though and so does my wallet. The central AC does not have > to be set as cold and the mini split runs when I am in the room. The online > electrical stats show the unit pulling less power than my toaster oven most > of the time. > > There are quite a few calculators out in the web to help with sizing, but > consider also the dual or triple output units instead of just a single > output. That way if one can't cool the space, you can use the others to > help. These things are so efficient I was considering ripping out the > central AC I just put in and adding one to each space in the house. Install > was relatively easy other than the concrete part and was a much easier than > the central AC install. > > B > *Sent from my brick phone* > On Jul 2, 2019 12:11, Benjamin Zwissler via Shop-talk < > shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > > Anyone installed a mini-split AC system in their shop? It looks like its > effective and can save a bunch of money if you do it yourself. My problem > is sizing it. I've got about 1000 sq ft (35 x 28) with 17' ceilings. Two > insulated overhead doors (12x14 and 10x10). The shop is reasonably well > insulated (mostly) and I'm in southern Indiana (often low-mid 90's and > humid). I'd probably put it midway up the wall and have it blow out into > the bays. > > I'm considering buying an initial 2 or 3 ton unit and then I can add one > if its not enough. I'm also wondering whether those of you who have AC run > it all the time or only when you're in the shop? > > Suggestions? > > Ben..... > > -- > Ben Zwissler > bjzwissler at gmail.com > Columbus, IN > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/scott.hall.personal at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jamesf at groupwbench.org Tue Jul 2 16:12:53 2019 From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin) Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2019 18:12:53 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] It's hot and I want AC In-Reply-To: References: <20190702204208.943D9A0362@autox.team.net> Message-ID: I'd be interested to know the brands of those who are satisfied. thanks, jim -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: smime.p7s Type: application/pkcs7-signature Size: 1386 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ejrussell at mebtel.net Tue Jul 2 16:42:55 2019 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell) Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2019 18:42:55 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] It's hot and I want AC In-Reply-To: References: <20190702204208.943D9A0362@autox.team.net> Message-ID: The units I bought were Ramsond. Browse the forums at garagejournal.com - lots of threads about mini-splits there. Just don't blame me for any time you waste, umm, I mean, spend there. Eric Russell Mebane, NC On 7/2/2019 6:12 PM, Jim Franklin via Shop-talk wrote: > I'd be interested to know the brands of those who are satisfied. > > thanks, > jim From battmain at yahoo.com Tue Jul 2 18:41:55 2019 From: battmain at yahoo.com (Battmain battmain) Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2019 20:41:55 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] It's hot and I want AC Message-ID: If you search hard enough, there are a few that look slightly better than the oval retangular look of most of them. Those look like a flat box that slides open when operating but I felt just more moving parts to break. You also pay a noticeably higher price too. I have a Mitsubishi unit. It has the oscillating vents and they work fine. I did not get to place the inside unit in the middle of the wall where I wanted due to outside real estate and a fence, but it doesn't seem to matter. It can cool the room from f'ing hot to tolerable in about 15-30 minutes. The remote has a timer where I can set it to start at a certain time if I want, but I have the central AC on a smart/remote thermostat with a schedule instead. Alexa also has a routine to ensure central AC set to 'Away' in case I override the schedule and forget in the morning. B Sent from my brick phone On Jul 2, 2019 17:24, Scott Hall via Shop-talk wrote: > > Ben, > > This is exactly my interest in a mini-split--I can keep the master bedroom cool and the rest of the house at 75 degrees. As far as warranties, I'm about to have to replace a four year-old central a/c system on my dime still very much under warranty and installed by a professional...so I'm failing to see the value in warranties right now. > > The only issue I'll have with a mini-split, besides that the outdoor unit will be hanging twenty feet in the air is that the indoor unit isn't meeting the aesthetic requirements imposed. > > I mean, she's right--it is kind of ugly, but being able to keep the master bedroom at 65 degrees for cheap has a beauty all its own. > > Scott > > On Tue, Jul 2, 2019 at 3:42 PM Battmain battmain via Shop-talk wrote: >> >> I did a mini split unit for my master bedroom. The hardest part was getting through the 12" poured concrete at the base of the roof to run the lines outside. A rented hammer chisel took about 2hrs and a lot of cussing. I love the unit though and so does my wallet. The central AC does not have to be set as cold and the mini split runs when I am in the room. The online electrical stats show the unit pulling less power than my toaster oven most of the time. >> >> There are quite a few calculators out in the web to help with sizing, but consider also the dual or triple output units? instead of just a single output. That way if one can't cool the space, you can use the others to help. These things are so efficient I was considering ripping out the central AC I just put in and adding one to each space in the house. Install was relatively easy other than the concrete part and was a much easier than the central AC install. >> >> B >> Sent from my brick phone >> On Jul 2, 2019 12:11, Benjamin Zwissler via Shop-talk wrote: >>> >>> Anyone installed a mini-split AC system in their shop?? It looks like its effective and can save a bunch of money if you do it yourself.? My problem is sizing it.? I've got about 1000 sq ft (35 x 28) with 17' ceilings.? Two insulated overhead doors (12x14 and 10x10).? The shop is reasonably well insulated (mostly) and I'm in southern Indiana (often low-mid 90's and humid).? I'd probably put it midway up the wall and have it blow out into the bays. >>> >>> I'm considering buying an initial 2 or 3 ton unit and then I can add one if its not enough.? I'm also wondering whether those of you who have AC run it all the time or only when you're in the shop? >>> >>> Suggestions? >>> >>> Ben..... >>> >>> -- >>> Ben Zwissler >>> bjzwissler at gmail.com >>> Columbus, IN >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation? $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/scott.hall.personal at gmail.com >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Sun Jul 7 23:31:35 2019 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2019 23:31:35 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Time to rethink tool storage? Message-ID: <6ff7060d-e20b-1ac7-7375-940cffa40607@bradakis.com> So in May I attended a vintage race in California, got a bit of inspiration to get the Killer Spit back on track, as well as getting a streetable Triumph on the road.? The garage is a total mess, everything is in disarray.? Working on getting things cleaned up a bit and getting some working room.? One thing that will need attention is my tool box.? Obviously not the best job of organizing.? I'm thinking of going with a new bottom cabinet. Would a Craftsman 41 inch be sufficient, or should I go for a 52 inch unit.? Decisions, decisions. mjb. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20190606_201415.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 746170 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20190528_205420.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 401375 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20190707_231440.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 661014 bytes Desc: not available URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Mon Jul 8 05:46:18 2019 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2019 07:46:18 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Time to rethink tool storage? In-Reply-To: <6ff7060d-e20b-1ac7-7375-940cffa40607@bradakis.com> References: <6ff7060d-e20b-1ac7-7375-940cffa40607@bradakis.com> Message-ID: On Mon, Jul 8, 2019 at 1:44 AM Mark J Bradakis via Shop-talk wrote: > > I'm thinking of going with a > new bottom cabinet. Would a Craftsman 41 inch be sufficient, or should I > go for a 52 inch unit. You're funny... "Should I get a big tool box, or a bigger tool box?" When I did this professionally, a toolbox with a single layer of tools allowed me to work much faster, and allowed me to see what tools were missing at the end of every job. I only one failed to remove all my tools from a customer's car before I released it. (If you've found a Craftsman 22mm combination wrench on the road sometime in the last 40 years, it's mine). The Garage Journal thinks highly of the Harbor Freight cabinets, and they may be a price savings over Craftsman...but don't forget to check your local Sears Outlet if you have one. I got a 41" top box for something like $120 once. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jul 8 06:13:00 2019 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2019 07:13:00 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Time to rethink tool storage? In-Reply-To: References: <6ff7060d-e20b-1ac7-7375-940cffa40607@bradakis.com> Message-ID: +1 on the HF rollaway. I bought a set a couple years ago (on sale natch) and I like it much better than my Craftsman set at home. Drawer glides are much smoother, even with a big load of tools inside, and it just feels more solid. So far at least, none of the handles have fallen off, either. (The Craftsman chest has aluminum handles on the drawers that tend to slip sideways and have to be repositioned occasionally.) -Randall Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From parkanzky at gmail.com Mon Jul 8 07:09:10 2019 From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky) Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2019 09:09:10 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Time to rethink tool storage? In-Reply-To: <6ff7060d-e20b-1ac7-7375-940cffa40607@bradakis.com> References: <6ff7060d-e20b-1ac7-7375-940cffa40607@bradakis.com> Message-ID: I have the 46" Atlas set from Greg Smith Equipment. It was an impulse purchase when I was there buying a lift ten or twelve years ago. https://www.gregsmithequipment.com/21-Drawer-Tool-Cabinet-Black-Orange I've been really happy with it and would buy another. -Paul On Mon, Jul 8, 2019 at 1:45 AM Mark J Bradakis via Shop-talk wrote: > > So in May I attended a vintage race in California, got a bit of > inspiration to get the Killer Spit back on track, as well as getting a > streetable Triumph on the road. The garage is a total mess, everything > is in disarray. Working on getting things cleaned up a bit and getting > some working room. One thing that will need attention is my tool box. > Obviously not the best job of organizing. I'm thinking of going with a > new bottom cabinet. Would a Craftsman 41 inch be sufficient, or should I > go for a 52 inch unit. Decisions, decisions. > > mjb. > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky at gmail.com > From dirtbeard at gmail.com Mon Jul 8 07:18:26 2019 From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard) Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2019 06:18:26 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Time to rethink tool storage? In-Reply-To: <20190708121329.96D25A0D60@autox.team.net> References: <6ff7060d-e20b-1ac7-7375-940cffa40607@bradakis.com> <20190708121329.96D25A0D60@autox.team.net> Message-ID: I still have a small rolling cabinet that I bought when I was a kid--sentimental old toolbox. I went with pegboard on the walls and have most of the air and hand tools hanging. I just finished off the last half of the garage and have not yet started hanging stuff. I actually have more space than tools now. Pros: 1. You know exactly where the tool is (or should be) when you want it visually from anywhere in the garage 2. You do not need to dig through layers of tools in drawers 3. I mostly keep just the small and delicate tools in the tool cabinet and can roll it to the location Cons: 1. You have to walk over to the tool instead of rolling the cabinet to where you are working 1. you can mitigate this by keeping the tools in the racks/holders and put them on a rolling table for the job you are doing 2. If you do different work in different areas of the shop, you can hang the tools in the closest location 2. You need wall space to hang them. Summary: It works, but is not perfect. I probably do more walking back and forth than I would if I had loaded everything into a monster tool cabinet. I also went with vinyl flooring on the garage a month or so ago, and like it a lot (softer on the knees, much quieter, brighter (can find stuff that I drop and it does not break), oils and chemicals wipe up without staining, etc. best, doug On Mon, Jul 8, 2019 at 5:13 AM Randall via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > +1 on the HF rollaway. I bought a set a couple years ago (on sale natch) > and I like it much better than my Craftsman set at home. Drawer glides are > much smoother, even with a big load of tools inside, and it just feels more > solid. So far at least, none of the handles have fallen off, either. (The > Craftsman chest has aluminum handles on the drawers that tend to slip > sideways and have to be repositioned occasionally.) > > > > -Randall > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at live.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: shopm.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 351351 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: shop2m.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 414045 bytes Desc: not available URL: From marka at maracing.com Mon Jul 8 08:20:56 2019 From: marka at maracing.com (Mark Andy) Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2019 10:20:56 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Time to rethink tool storage? In-Reply-To: <6ff7060d-e20b-1ac7-7375-940cffa40607@bradakis.com> References: <6ff7060d-e20b-1ac7-7375-940cffa40607@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Howdy, Another recommendation for the 44" HF tool chest. I've had one for years, its still working just like when I bought it. Given that everyone recommends them, I don't think I was lucky, its just that good. The 56" one seems just as well made when I've played with them in the store: https://www.harborfreight.com/44-in-x-22-in-double-bank-red-roller-cabinet-64133.html https://www.harborfreight.com/56-in-Double-Bank-Red-Roller-Cabinet-64165.html They both have matching top chests. Note that the 20% off coupons don't work on these. However, they sometimes appear in coupons of their own. For smaller sets of tools or if you're a "roll my tools to my car" kinda guy, their mechanic's carts are also good. I also second the "single layer is easier to see to grab and when stuff is missing" thing. I really like the triangular single layer wrench holders. The ones I have are like this: https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200371127_200371127 Don't get ones that "grip" your wrenches. you want to be able to easily pickup the wrench. For sockets, I love the Hansen peg setups: https://www.amazon.com/Hansen-Global-Metric-Socket-Storage/dp/B001C6NL52 By far the most dense yet still easily "grab-able" system I've used. Obviously you need a deeper drawer for that to work (the top drawer on that HF box is great). YMMV. I'm not a "grab an entire set of wrenches / sockets and go to the car" type of person... I get the individual wrench / socket I need from my box. Mark On Mon, Jul 8, 2019 at 1:37 AM Mark J Bradakis via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > So in May I attended a vintage race in California, got a bit of > inspiration to get the Killer Spit back on track, as well as getting a > streetable Triumph on the road. The garage is a total mess, everything > is in disarray. Working on getting things cleaned up a bit and getting > some working room. One thing that will need attention is my tool box. > Obviously not the best job of organizing. I'm thinking of going with a > new bottom cabinet. Would a Craftsman 41 inch be sufficient, or should I > go for a 52 inch unit. Decisions, decisions. > > mjb. > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/marka at maracing.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eric at megageek.com Wed Jul 10 16:54:49 2019 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2019 18:54:49 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Stupid camera question Message-ID: OK, so one of my security cameras died last week. All of the replacement ones seem to have a 4 way switch to define how it worked. Problem is, I can't figure out what the one camera format was. Here is the camera I am replacing... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSFMV6G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The camera I have has these 4 options... CVBS TVI CVI AHD I have no idea what to set it to. I also have to get up a ladder outside to install it so I don't want to have to try every setting and run inside each time (I live alone.) 8>( Thanks in advance. Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem. Tech Viper "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson -Who is John Galt? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bk13 at earthlink.net Wed Jul 10 17:06:32 2019 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2019 16:06:32 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Stupid camera question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I'd just use a short temporary wire connected directly to the DVR to test the new camera next to the DVR and monitor.? When you find the setting that works, then reconnect the long wire at the DVR and install the camera outside. Brian On 7/10/2019 3:54 PM, eric--- via Shop-talk wrote: > OK, so one of my security cameras died last week. > > All of the replacement ones seem to have a 4 way switch to define how > it worked. ?Problem is, I can't figure out what the one camera format > was. > > Here is the camera I am replacing... > > _https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSFMV6G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1_ > > The camera I have has these 4 options... > CVBS > TVI > CVI > AHD > > I have no idea what to set it to. > > I also have to get up a ladder outside to install it so I don't want > to have to try every setting and run inside each time (I live alone.) > ?8>( > > Thanks in advance. > > > Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem. > Tech Viper > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a > rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your > territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson > -Who is John Galt? > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eric at megageek.com Wed Jul 10 17:56:26 2019 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2019 19:56:26 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Stupid camera question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: It isn't that simple. The unit is literally 'built into' the ceiling in a protected box (so it can't be removed if the house is robbed.) I also don't have spare cable and all the cables I do have a run inside walls and such. I am also curious about what these standards are. Thanks. Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem. Tech Viper "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson -Who is John Galt? From: Brian Kemp To: eric at megageek.com, Shop-talk at autox.team.net Date: 07/10/2019 19:06 Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stupid camera question I'd just use a short temporary wire connected directly to the DVR to test the new camera next to the DVR and monitor. When you find the setting that works, then reconnect the long wire at the DVR and install the camera outside. Brian On 7/10/2019 3:54 PM, eric--- via Shop-talk wrote: OK, so one of my security cameras died last week. All of the replacement ones seem to have a 4 way switch to define how it worked. Problem is, I can't figure out what the one camera format was. Here is the camera I am replacing... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSFMV6G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The camera I have has these 4 options... CVBS TVI CVI AHD I have no idea what to set it to. I also have to get up a ladder outside to install it so I don't want to have to try every setting and run inside each time (I live alone.) 8>( Thanks in advance. Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem. Tech Viper "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson -Who is John Galt? _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Wed Jul 10 18:12:09 2019 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2019 20:12:09 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Stupid camera question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Wed, Jul 10, 2019 at 7:56 PM eric--- via Shop-talk wrote: > > I am also curious about what these standards are. Does this help? https://www.2mcctv.com/blog/2019_02_17-tvi-vs-cvi-vs-ahd-vs-cvbs-vs-sdi-security-cameras/ Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From patintexas at icloud.com Mon Jul 15 03:39:01 2019 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2019 04:39:01 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Shipper recommendation needed Message-ID: <4FA04D5E-6CAA-4126-90AE-7F5DD24EE438@icloud.com> I need to get a transmission shipped from Alabama to Texas. It is crated & weighs 175 lbs. anyone have a shipper that they recommend (or not recommended)? Ship content: when it arrives I will be installing it in my shop. Thanks. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity From rrochlin at comcast.net Mon Jul 15 05:44:39 2019 From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Rochlin Robert) Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2019 07:44:39 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Shipper recommendation needed In-Reply-To: <4FA04D5E-6CAA-4126-90AE-7F5DD24EE438@icloud.com> References: <4FA04D5E-6CAA-4126-90AE-7F5DD24EE438@icloud.com> Message-ID: <6F734D63-50C1-417D-8B2D-57B7C155AA45@comcast.net> Hi Pat, When I shipped my TR6 overdrive transmission I used FedEx. I don?t recall the weight, but it was under the FedEx weight limit. 175 Lbs. may be over the FedEx weight limit. I custom constructed a wooden crate and have had to ship the transmission/OD twice, but in both instances it came through with no damage and on time. Best, Bob ?72 TR6 > On Jul 15, 2019, at 5:39 AM, Pat Horne via Shop-talk wrote: > > I need to get a transmission shipped from Alabama to Texas. It is crated & weighs 175 lbs. anyone have a shipper that they recommend (or not recommended)? > > Ship content: when it arrives I will be installing it in my shop. > > Thanks. > > Peace, > Pat > > Pat Horne > We support Habitat for Humanity > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rrochlin at comcast.net > From ejrussell at mebtel.net Mon Jul 15 06:44:28 2019 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (ERIC RUSSELL) Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2019 08:44:28 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Shipper recommendation needed In-Reply-To: <4FA04D5E-6CAA-4126-90AE-7F5DD24EE438@icloud.com> References: <4FA04D5E-6CAA-4126-90AE-7F5DD24EE438@icloud.com> Message-ID: <1260559012.21058899.1563194668448.JavaMail.zimbra@mebtel.net> I shipped an MGA transmission using Fastenal. I secured it to a pallet, dropped it off at a local Fastenal store and they put on the next truck going towards the destination. The buyer picked it up at the store near him. Eric Russell Mebane, MCDO ----- Original Message ----- I need to get a transmission shipped from Alabama to Texas. It is crated & weighs 175 lbs. anyone have a shipper that they recommend (or not recommended)? From mbarre at juno.com Mon Jul 15 07:44:47 2019 From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2019 13:44:47 GMT Subject: [Shop-talk] Shipper recommendation needed Message-ID: <20190715.094447.17888.1@webmail04.vgs.untd.com> That is a new one - had no idea Fastenall did that. I have successfully shipped large car parts via greyhound. Not sure what their weight limit is. Other downside is you have to drop and p/u from their terminal, but the price was pretty good. ---------- Original Message ---------- From: ERIC RUSSELL via Shop-talk To: Pat Horne Cc: Shop Talk List Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shipper recommendation needed Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2019 08:44:28 -0400 (EDT) I shipped an MGA transmission using Fastenal. I secured it to a pallet, dropped it off at a local Fastenal store and they put on the next truck going towards the destination. The buyer picked it up at the store near him. Eric Russell Mebane, MCDO ----- Original Message ----- I need to get a transmission shipped from Alabama to Texas. It is crated & weighs 175 lbs. anyone have a shipper that they recommend (or not recommended)? _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mbarre at juno.com From ronnie.day at gmail.com Mon Jul 15 07:51:29 2019 From: ronnie.day at gmail.com (Ronnie Day) Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2019 08:51:29 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Shipper recommendation needed In-Reply-To: <20190715.094447.17888.1@webmail04.vgs.untd.com> References: <20190715.094447.17888.1@webmail04.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: Pat, Have you checked out bus freight? RD On Mon, Jul 15, 2019 at 8:47 AM Matt via Shop-talk wrote: > > That is a new one - had no idea Fastenall did that. > I have successfully shipped large car parts via greyhound. > Not sure what their weight limit is. > Other downside is you have to drop and p/u from their terminal, but the > price was pretty good. > > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: ERIC RUSSELL via Shop-talk > To: Pat Horne > Cc: Shop Talk List > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shipper recommendation needed > Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2019 08:44:28 -0400 (EDT) > > I shipped an MGA transmission using Fastenal. I secured it to a pallet, > dropped it off at a local Fastenal store and they put on the next truck > going towards the destination. The buyer picked it up at the store near > him. > > Eric Russell > Mebane, MCDO > > ----- Original Message ----- > > I need to get a transmission shipped from Alabama to Texas. It is crated & > weighs 175 lbs. anyone have a shipper that they recommend (or not > recommended)? > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mbarre at juno.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ronnie.day at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 1789alpine at gmail.com Mon Jul 15 14:46:47 2019 From: 1789alpine at gmail.com (Jim Stone) Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2019 16:46:47 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Shipper recommendation needed In-Reply-To: <20190715.094447.17888.1@webmail04.vgs.untd.com> References: <20190715.094447.17888.1@webmail04.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: I sold a transmission to someone in Santa Anna, CA earlier this year and tried to use Fastenal, but they wouldn?t ship to any of the stores near him. We ended up using UPS, which ran about $160. Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 15, 2019, at 9:44 AM, Matt via Shop-talk wrote: > > > That is a new one - had no idea Fastenall did that. > I have successfully shipped large car parts via greyhound. > Not sure what their weight limit is. > Other downside is you have to drop and p/u from their terminal, but the price was pretty good. > > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: ERIC RUSSELL via Shop-talk > To: Pat Horne > Cc: Shop Talk List > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shipper recommendation needed > Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2019 08:44:28 -0400 (EDT) > > I shipped an MGA transmission using Fastenal. I secured it to a pallet, dropped it off at a local Fastenal store and they put on the next truck going towards the destination. The buyer picked it up at the store near him. > > Eric Russell > Mebane, MCDO > > ----- Original Message ----- > > I need to get a transmission shipped from Alabama to Texas. It is crated & weighs 175 lbs. anyone have a shipper that they recommend (or not recommended)? > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mbarre at juno.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789alpine at gmail.com > From dmscheidt at gmail.com Mon Jul 15 16:40:11 2019 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2019 17:40:11 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Shipper recommendation needed In-Reply-To: <20190715.094447.17888.1@webmail04.vgs.untd.com> References: <20190715.094447.17888.1@webmail04.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <5EC04DF4-2C31-47C0-ABFA-4526F1AB490A@gmail.com> > On Jul 15, 2019, at 08:44, Matt via Shop-talk wrote: > > > That is a new one - had no idea Fastenall did that. > I have successfully shipped large car parts via greyhound. > Not sure what their weight limit is. > Other downside is you have to drop and p/u from their terminal, but the price was pretty good. Greyhound weight limit is about 100 lbs. there are also some weird size limits, since it has to fit in the under bus luggage space. But it?s cheap, and can be fast. From tvacc at lotusowners.com Mon Jul 15 16:56:01 2019 From: tvacc at lotusowners.com (Tony Vaccaro) Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2019 18:56:01 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Shipper recommendation needed In-Reply-To: References: <20190715.094447.17888.1@webmail04.vgs.untd.com> <5EC04DF4-2C31-47C0-ABFA-4526F1AB490A@gmail.com> Message-ID: <03ed01d53b60$795d1420$6c173c60$@lotusowners.com> I had a tranny for a Caterham shipped from Wichita to Buffalo NY Crated it was only about $125 via Fedex ground. Tony V www.lotusowners.com www.lotusltd.com From pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com Mon Jul 15 05:55:31 2019 From: pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com (PJ McGarvey) Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2019 11:55:31 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Shipper recommendation needed In-Reply-To: <6F734D63-50C1-417D-8B2D-57B7C155AA45@comcast.net> References: <4FA04D5E-6CAA-4126-90AE-7F5DD24EE438@icloud.com>, <6F734D63-50C1-417D-8B2D-57B7C155AA45@comcast.net> Message-ID: Had a T56 trans shipped to me using a service provided by Fastenal. It was the seller's choice, I think he had an account with them, but the only catch was I had to pick it up at a local Fastenal. It was crated, and they dropped it in the back of a pickup truck for me. Don't recall pricing, but it seemed reasonable. Also shipped a transaxle or two myself using Fedex, also reasonable prices, etc. -PJ ________________________________ From: Shop-talk on behalf of Rochlin Robert via Shop-talk Sent: Monday, July 15, 2019 7:44 AM To: Pat Horne; Tom Shirley via Shop-talk Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shipper recommendation needed Hi Pat, When I shipped my TR6 overdrive transmission I used FedEx. I don?t recall the weight, but it was under the FedEx weight limit. 175 Lbs. may be over the FedEx weight limit. I custom constructed a wooden crate and have had to ship the transmission/OD twice, but in both instances it came through with no damage and on time. Best, Bob ?72 TR6 > On Jul 15, 2019, at 5:39 AM, Pat Horne via Shop-talk wrote: > > I need to get a transmission shipped from Alabama to Texas. It is crated & weighs 175 lbs. anyone have a shipper that they recommend (or not recommended)? > > Ship content: when it arrives I will be installing it in my shop. > > Thanks. > > Peace, > Pat > > Pat Horne > We support Habitat for Humanity > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rrochlin at comcast.net > _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dirtbeard at gmail.com Mon Jul 15 06:28:33 2019 From: dirtbeard at gmail.com (old dirtbeard) Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2019 05:28:33 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Shipper recommendation needed In-Reply-To: <6F734D63-50C1-417D-8B2D-57B7C155AA45@comcast.net> References: <4FA04D5E-6CAA-4126-90AE-7F5DD24EE438@icloud.com> <6F734D63-50C1-417D-8B2D-57B7C155AA45@comcast.net> Message-ID: I shipped one with Greyhound bus years back. I had to pick it up at the bus terminal, but it was the most affordable method at the time by a large margin. On Mon, Jul 15, 2019, 4:45 AM Rochlin Robert via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > Hi Pat, > When I shipped my TR6 overdrive transmission I used FedEx. I don?t > recall the weight, but it was under the FedEx weight limit. 175 Lbs. may be > over the FedEx weight limit. I custom constructed a wooden crate and have > had to ship the transmission/OD twice, but in both instances it came > through with no damage and on time. > Best, > Bob > ?72 TR6 > > > On Jul 15, 2019, at 5:39 AM, Pat Horne via Shop-talk < > shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > > > > I need to get a transmission shipped from Alabama to Texas. It is crated > & weighs 175 lbs. anyone have a shipper that they recommend (or not > recommended)? > > > > Ship content: when it arrives I will be installing it in my shop. > > > > Thanks. > > > > Peace, > > Pat > > > > Pat Horne > > We support Habitat for Humanity > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rrochlin at comcast.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at live.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eric at megageek.com Sun Jul 21 08:46:23 2019 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2019 10:46:23 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Shipper recommendation needed In-Reply-To: References: <4FA04D5E-6CAA-4126-90AE-7F5DD24EE438@icloud.com> <6F734D63-50C1-417D-8B2D-57B7C155AA45@comcast.net> Message-ID: First, I never saw the original 'ask', but here is my 2 cents plus! I do ship heavy items a bunch, so here is what I learned. First, I can tell you who NOT to use. Do not use any of the 'freight quote' type services (especially Freightquote.com) They will quote you a good price, then once shipped, they will hit you with fees that are not true. I used them a few times before I caught on. They love to say that the "item was heavier than you stated" knowing that you can't prove it. However, I have a commercial 2K digital scale that reads to the 1/4lb. I even stated it was heavier then the reading. Yet they stated that it was heavier then quoted. So you get charged a higher price AND a penalty fee. Or they say that you used the wrong freight class, even thought they have NO idea what is in the crate. All of this happens after you shipped, so you are helpless to fight it. I've heard good things about Forsnal, but I had problems getting quotes from them. They did state that they will only handle certain freight classes to me, so that was limiting. Had a buddy that used Greyhound alot and liked it (and the prices are good) but you and the other party need to be near a terminal, and there are restrictions on size and class. On the plus, you really don't need great packaging. My buddy used to get tires this way and the tires had no packaging, just a band of tape to hold on the label. What I have found to be the best, is UPS freight. But here is the kicker, NEVER pay the rate you will get quoted online. Call your local UPS and ask for the UPS Freight rep in your area. Call him, tell him you want to set up an account. (you may have to call a few times, as my guy was really busy.) Once you get in touch with him, be honest and say that you ship only a few times a year, but you want an account. You also want a 50% discounted rate. (Note, you may not want to say a specific rate, as they may give you an even better discount. I ended up with a 60% discount. But my buddy who has a business that ships alot gets almost 75% discount.) They seem to be very happy doing this. It's always cheaper to ship from a business to a business or terminal. Even though I have a fork lift and don't need a lift gate, I still have to bring it to a business to get the discount. But they are really good to work with. Last note, where in AL and where in Tx? I'm driving from NJ to AZ starting tomorrow. I'll be going through Memphis if you are close to that and I'll be stopping in Dallas if it is close to that. Let me know! Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem. Tech Viper "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson -Who is John Galt? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lee at automate-it.com Sun Jul 21 16:18:01 2019 From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels) Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2019 17:18:01 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] add water to "maintenance-free" battery? Message-ID: <8704ae3ea3ff1a24efd551c1e13fb73a.squirrel@automate-it.com> I suspect this has come up before, but my quick archive search didn't turn up anything. The DieHard in my TR6 is several years old, but it sits on a Battery MINDer most of the time. Lately when I start the car, I first get one short "Rrr" like a dead battery. But keep trying and it turns over *very* reluctantly for a few revs, then (so far) builds speed, and eventually starts. After a drive, it starts normally. It's now sat for a day, so I figured I'd check the water level - but, uh-oh, can't figure out a way to get the cover off without tearing up the battery. See attached photo. I can pry on the two ends and get them to barely move, but the edges of the cover don't budge with gentle prying. Out of the car, I measure >12.8V, and it's never had any corrosion etc. Is there anything I can do with this thing? Thanks Lee -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20190721_164656.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 168984 bytes Desc: not available URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jul 21 16:37:42 2019 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2019 17:37:42 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] add water to "maintenance-free" battery? In-Reply-To: <8704ae3ea3ff1a24efd551c1e13fb73a.squirrel@automate-it.com> References: <8704ae3ea3ff1a24efd551c1e13fb73a.squirrel@automate-it.com> Message-ID: <631EE337-2C38-44F2-9AD8-7C4766A3A854@ca.rr.com> Break the covers off (usually the welds are weaker and you'll be left with a cap that works) and add some distilled water. Might not solve the problem, but you've got nothing to lose. -- Randall On 21 July 2019 17:18:01 GMT-05:00, Lee Daniels via Shop-talk wrote: >I suspect this has come up before, but my quick archive search didn't >turn up >anything. > >The DieHard in my TR6 is several years old, but it sits on a Battery >MINDer >most of the time. Lately when I start the car, I first get one short >"Rrr" >like a dead battery. But keep trying and it turns over *very* >reluctantly for >a few revs, then (so far) builds speed, and eventually starts. After a >drive, >it starts normally. > >It's now sat for a day, so I figured I'd check the water level - but, >uh-oh, >can't figure out a way to get the cover off without tearing up the >battery. >See attached photo. I can pry on the two ends and get them to barely >move, but >the edges of the cover don't budge with gentle prying. > >Out of the car, I measure >12.8V, and it's never had any corrosion etc. >Is >there anything I can do with this thing? > >Thanks > Lee -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Sun Jul 21 18:52:32 2019 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 00:52:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] add water to "maintenance-free" battery? In-Reply-To: <8704ae3ea3ff1a24efd551c1e13fb73a.squirrel@automate-it.com> References: <8704ae3ea3ff1a24efd551c1e13fb73a.squirrel@automate-it.com> Message-ID: <1231863538.2774430.1563756752809@mail.yahoo.com> Check your connections at the battery and the starter.? And the negative to the block.? A corroded connector at any of those locations can make it look like a weak battery.? I once replaced a starter for similar symptoms and when I pulled the cable off of the solenoid on the starter I noticed it was burnt.? My old starter was probably OK but I installed the new gear-reduction starter mostly for the cool factor.? That's what it is all about anyway, isn't it. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Lee Daniels via Shop-talk To: Shop-talk Sent: Sun, Jul 21, 2019 5:18 pm Subject: [Shop-talk] add water to "maintenance-free" battery? I suspect this has come up before, but my quick archive search didn't turn up anything. The DieHard in my TR6 is several years old, but it sits on a Battery MINDer most of the time. Lately when I start the car, I first get one short "Rrr" like a dead battery. But keep trying and it turns over *very* reluctantly for a few revs, then (so far) builds speed, and eventually starts. After a drive, it starts normally. It's now sat for a day, so I figured I'd check the water level - but, uh-oh, can't figure out a way to get the cover off without tearing up the battery. See attached photo. I can pry on the two ends and get them to barely move, but the edges of the cover don't budge with gentle prying. Out of the car, I measure >12.8V, and it's never had any corrosion etc. Is there anything I can do with this thing? Thanks Lee_______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrochlin at comcast.net Mon Jul 22 05:51:25 2019 From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Rochlin Robert) Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 07:51:25 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] add water to "maintenance-free" battery? In-Reply-To: <1231863538.2774430.1563756752809@mail.yahoo.com> References: <8704ae3ea3ff1a24efd551c1e13fb73a.squirrel@automate-it.com> <1231863538.2774430.1563756752809@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <592BC6AD-397B-480C-A77A-4A5D88756786@comcast.net> The starter on my TR6 was, as far as I can tell, original to the car. Over the years it cranked slower and slower, but always started the car.. Eventually it engaged so slowly that it, on occasion, started to grind the flywheel. After careful examination of the wiring failed to find any issues had it rebuilt and was amazed at the greatly improved performance. Best, Bob > On Jul 21, 2019, at 8:52 PM, DAVID MASSEY via Shop-talk wrote: > > Check your connections at the battery and the starter. And the negative to the block. A corroded connector at any of those locations can make it look like a weak battery. I once replaced a starter for similar symptoms and when I pulled the cable off of the solenoid on the starter I noticed it was burnt. My old starter was probably OK but I installed the new gear-reduction starter mostly for the cool factor. That's what it is all about anyway, isn't it. > > Dave > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Lee Daniels via Shop-talk > To: Shop-talk > Sent: Sun, Jul 21, 2019 5:18 pm > Subject: [Shop-talk] add water to "maintenance-free" battery? > > I suspect this has come up before, but my quick archive search didn't turn up > anything. > > The DieHard in my TR6 is several years old, but it sits on a Battery MINDer > most of the time. Lately when I start the car, I first get one short "Rrr" > like a dead battery. But keep trying and it turns over *very* reluctantly for > a few revs, then (so far) builds speed, and eventually starts. After a drive, > it starts normally. > > It's now sat for a day, so I figured I'd check the water level - but, uh-oh, > can't figure out a way to get the cover off without tearing up the battery. > See attached photo. I can pry on the two ends and get them to barely move, but > the edges of the cover don't budge with gentle prying. > > Out of the car, I measure >12.8V, and it's never had any corrosion etc. Is > there anything I can do with this thing? > > Thanks > Lee > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net <> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <> > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk <>http://autox.team.net/archive <> > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dave1massey at cs.com <> > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rrochlin at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jul 22 08:53:32 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 07:53:32 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] add water to "maintenance-free" battery? In-Reply-To: <8704ae3ea3ff1a24efd551c1e13fb73a.squirrel@automate-it.com> References: <8704ae3ea3ff1a24efd551c1e13fb73a.squirrel@automate-it.com> Message-ID: <20cdf230-71ae-d67a-634d-fec4fe34ae86@comcast.net> How old is the battery?? If you got more than 5 years out of it you got your money's worth (I've noticed battery quality has largely gone down since most are now Hecho En Mexico, even 'name' brands; Deka, for one, is still made in the 'States and is excellent quality). The unloaded voltage doesn't mean much; an almost dead battery can still measure > 12V.??? You need a load tester to tell for sure if the battery is still good; HF has a cheap one, but only pulls 100amps so is probably a waste of money, I have one similar to this (but the cables get very hot very quickly): *https://tinyurl.com/y3l68nfd* There are (much) more expensive ones available for 'professional' use that have fans for cooling and are probably best.? Maybe you can rent one or get AutoZone or some other parts house to test for you? AFAIK there is no way to add water to sealed 'maintenance-free' batteries (and if you did, it likely wouldn't remain 'sealed' any longer). Bob On 7/21/2019 3:18 PM, Lee Daniels via Shop-talk wrote: > I suspect this has come up before, but my quick archive search didn't turn up > anything. > > The DieHard in my TR6 is several years old, but it sits on a Battery MINDer > most of the time. Lately when I start the car, I first get one short "Rrr" > like a dead battery. But keep trying and it turns over *very* reluctantly for > a few revs, then (so far) builds speed, and eventually starts. After a drive, > it starts normally. > > It's now sat for a day, so I figured I'd check the water level - but, uh-oh, > can't figure out a way to get the cover off without tearing up the battery. > See attached photo. I can pry on the two ends and get them to barely move, but > the edges of the cover don't budge with gentle prying. > > Out of the car, I measure >12.8V, and it's never had any corrosion etc. Is > there anything I can do with this thing? > > Thanks > Lee > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From nogera at icloud.com Mon Jul 22 09:27:49 2019 From: nogera at icloud.com (Robert Nogueirao) Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 10:27:49 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Choosing a wood Message-ID: <0D9A0A13-D946-4664-A876-3FC77361FDF4@icloud.com> I?m looking for suggestions as to what type of wood to use for a project. I?m making some small wood models. I?ve tried Bass wood, my wife uses it for her carving, but it is too soft and does not hold edge detail well. White pine is working but the soft wood in the grain seems to create the same problem as bass wood. The pieces I?m making are only 1/8 inch thick an 3/8 wide so cutting is not a problem. Any suggestions as to a tight grain wood which is hard enough to hold a edge? Bob Nogueira From stearman809 at gmail.com Mon Jul 22 15:30:54 2019 From: stearman809 at gmail.com (Karl Vacek) Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 16:30:54 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Choosing a wood In-Reply-To: <0D9A0A13-D946-4664-A876-3FC77361FDF4@icloud.com> References: <0D9A0A13-D946-4664-A876-3FC77361FDF4@icloud.com> Message-ID: <002101d540d4$be904cf0$3bb0e6d0$@GMail.com> Sitka spruce might be better - more consistent, fine grain. Not sure where to buy it except aircraft supply sources - try Aircraft Spruce or Wicks. And if you can finish the edge detail as a final step, you could harden up those areas with cyanoacrylate glue. Karl -----Original Message----- From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Nogueirao via Shop-talk Sent: Monday, July 22, 2019 10:28 AM To: Shop-talk Subject: [Shop-talk] Choosing a wood I?m looking for suggestions as to what type of wood to use for a project. I?m making some small wood models. I?ve tried Bass wood, my wife uses it for her carving, but it is too soft and does not hold edge detail well. White pine is working but the soft wood in the grain seems to create the same problem as bass wood. The pieces I?m making are only 1/8 inch thick an 3/8 wide so cutting is not a problem. Any suggestions as to a tight grain wood which is hard enough to hold a edge? Bob Nogueira From patintexas at icloud.com Sun Jul 28 11:33:21 2019 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2019 12:33:21 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Shipper recommendation needed In-Reply-To: <4FA04D5E-6CAA-4126-90AE-7F5DD24EE438@icloud.com> References: <4FA04D5E-6CAA-4126-90AE-7F5DD24EE438@icloud.com> Message-ID: <1596D91A-3503-47AE-A34C-3AF054280A70@icloud.com> The trans is in hand. I used Fastenal. $187. 50 from savanna, Ga to San Marcos, Tx. This was dock to dock. I paid an additional $75 to get it to the shipping Fastenal. Piece of cake. If I need to ship anything again, I?ll check with them first. Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Jul 15, 2019, at 4:39 AM, Pat Horne via Shop-talk wrote: I need to get a transmission shipped from Alabama to Texas. It is crated & weighs 175 lbs. anyone have a shipper that they recommend (or not recommended)? Ship content: when it arrives I will be installing it in my shop. Thanks. Peace, Pat Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com From jem at milleredp.com Sun Jul 28 11:47:54 2019 From: jem at milleredp.com (John Miller) Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2019 10:47:54 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Shipper recommendation needed In-Reply-To: <1596D91A-3503-47AE-A34C-3AF054280A70@icloud.com> References: <4FA04D5E-6CAA-4126-90AE-7F5DD24EE438@icloud.com> <1596D91A-3503-47AE-A34C-3AF054280A70@icloud.com> Message-ID: On 7/28/2019 10:33 AM, Pat Horne via Shop-talk wrote: > The trans is in hand. I'll keep that in mind. I'm waiting for Amazon Prime to offer pickup/delivery service. Amazon, for whatever you think about them, have pretty much redefined the shipping business in this country and perhaps much of the world. Frankly, I try to buy elsewhere when I can, but they're so damn convenient and I appreciate the club they've beaten the rest of the industry with to improve their services. John. From fishplate at gmail.com Mon Jul 29 16:41:21 2019 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2019 18:41:21 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Sensible heat and latent heat... Message-ID: So, I understand the difference, but I'm trying to calculate backwards. Suppose you have the following: Entering air: 96F dry bulb, and 77F wet bulb. Air flow:3200 CFM. From fishplate at gmail.com Mon Jul 29 16:45:34 2019 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2019 18:45:34 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Sensible heat and latent heat... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Let's try that again... > So, I understand the difference, but I'm trying to calculate backwards. Given the following, what is the temperature of the air leaving the system? Entering air: 96F dry bulb, and 77F wet bulb. Air flow: 3200 CFM. Cooling: 12 tons, or 144,000 Btu/hr I get 69F, but it's been 32 years since I had to scribble on a psychrometric chart... Anybody got a simple method, or a link to an online calculator for people who work backwards? Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From mark at bradakis.com Tue Jul 30 14:44:17 2019 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2019 14:44:17 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Plumbing fun Message-ID: <24df8488-828c-5a56-7041-c62494bc27b0@bradakis.com> So I replaced the old, leaking valve and union with new bits. This is the feed to the outside front hose faucet.? Managed to wiggle it all just right to get it to fit and tighten up properly.? Turn on the valve and start getting wet.? The new parts aren't leaking, it is the old joint at the union at the wall, that skanky looking bit with the dark discoloration.? Guess the wiggling around disturbed it to the point of failing. I'm thinking of replacing the pipes between the new valve and the leaking union with a short of piece of flexible hose, like maybe a washing machine fill hose, or something similar.? Of course, access is going to be a pain, will need to dig out the saw and start whacking away more old sheetrock first. What fun. Of course, the REAL fix is to replumb the entire house, I'm sure a LOT of the pipe look like the inside of the old valve I removed. mjb. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20190729_234520.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 507973 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20181119_131922.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350855 bytes Desc: not available URL: From peterwmurray at gmail.com Tue Jul 30 15:47:44 2019 From: peterwmurray at gmail.com (Peter Murray) Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2019 17:47:44 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Plumbing fun In-Reply-To: <24df8488-828c-5a56-7041-c62494bc27b0@bradakis.com> References: <24df8488-828c-5a56-7041-c62494bc27b0@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Looks more like something my kids would do, stuffing peanut butter and chocolate pieces in there - though, honestly, they'd eat that and stuff play-dough in there instead. I hear PEX is awesome, and you can run it like network cable. Fortunately, I haven't had to replumb my house yet. I hope the "city conditioner" I put in several years ago helps to keep the aquatic plaque away. -Peter On Tue, Jul 30, 2019 at 4:49 PM Mark J Bradakis via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > So I replaced the old, leaking valve and union with new bits. This is > the feed to the outside front hose faucet. Managed to wiggle it all > just right to get it to fit and tighten up properly. Turn on the valve > and start getting wet. The new parts aren't leaking, it is the old > joint at the union at the wall, that skanky looking bit with the dark > discoloration. Guess the wiggling around disturbed it to the point of > failing. > > I'm thinking of replacing the pipes between the new valve and the > leaking union with a short of piece of flexible hose, like maybe a > washing machine fill hose, or something similar. Of course, access is > going to be a pain, will need to dig out the saw and start whacking away > more old sheetrock first. > > What fun. > > Of course, the REAL fix is to replumb the entire house, I'm sure a LOT > of the pipe look like the inside of the old valve I removed. > > mjb. > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Tue Jul 30 19:01:35 2019 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2019 19:01:35 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Plumbing fun In-Reply-To: <24df8488-828c-5a56-7041-c62494bc27b0@bradakis.com> References: <24df8488-828c-5a56-7041-c62494bc27b0@bradakis.com> Message-ID: So I cut out enough sheetrock to get some wrenching room, got the old pipes out without too much trouble.? I sprayed a few of the joints with WD40 a few times, maybe that helped, maybe it didn't. So now the question is can I get the sealing face that rusty old union cleaned up enough to get a good seal, or am I going to have to replace it too, which might mean tearing into the wall in the next room.? Or maybe not. And then, this project has got me thinking.? It might be my cue to buy a roll of PEX, a cutter and a crimper and start using it to fix this problem and the next one on my list, the washing machine.? At the moment when you select a hot water wash, the machine fills up at a rate of about a gallon a day.? Is it just the fill hose being clogged, or the valve, or the pipes feeding it?? Fun fun fun! mjb. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20190730_183454.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 604455 bytes Desc: not available URL: From strovato at optonline.net Tue Jul 30 19:15:09 2019 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2019 21:15:09 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Plumbing fun In-Reply-To: References: <24df8488-828c-5a56-7041-c62494bc27b0@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <44.C2.05532.7DBE04D5@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> There are screens at the inlets where the hoses connect to the back of my washing machine. When I have this problem, I always find a bunch of sediment and debris clogging up the screens. It is easy to check and easy to fix. Invest ten minutes in checking that before you start a major project. These are what I'm talking about: www.amazon.com/Danco-80070-Washers-Screen-Black/dp/B000KKULR2/ref=sr_1_11 -Steve At 09:01 PM 7/30/2019, Mark J Bradakis via Shop-talk wrote: >And then, this project has got me thinking. It might be my cue to >buy a roll of PEX, a cutter and a crimper and start using it to fix >this problem and the next one on my list, the washing machine. At >the moment when you select a hot water wash, the machine fills up at >a rate of about a gallon a day. Is it just the fill hose being >clogged, or the valve, or the pipes feeding it? Fun fun fun! > >mjb. --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From 1789alpine at gmail.com Tue Jul 30 19:35:47 2019 From: 1789alpine at gmail.com (Jim Stone) Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2019 21:35:47 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Plumbing fun In-Reply-To: References: <24df8488-828c-5a56-7041-c62494bc27b0@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <7FAA513B-EBC6-45E0-B210-F15992A444EB@gmail.com> The union in the photograph doesn?t look terrible to me. I?ve certainly successfully worked with worse. If only to buy you some time, it can?t hurt to wrap a couple of extra turns of teflon tape around the new fitting - or goober it up with pipe dope - and see if it works. That isn?t to say that a re-plumb isn?t in your future. The clogged pipe looks pretty scary. I haven?t worked much with PEX, but have watched plumbers using it and am pretty impressed. None of the pros seem to use crimpers for their connections, and they tell me they don?t trust crimped connections. They use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2432-22-12-Volt-Propex-Expansion/dp/B0048EJX7U/ref=sr_1_1?crid=20YNES0KKJ2KB&keywords=milwaukee+pex+expander+tool&qid=1564536668&s=hi&sprefix=Milwaukee+pex%2Ctools%2C127&sr=1-1. There are manual versions of this for sale, but I am sure this is the way to go if you are doing a fair amount of work. I have also been told by professionals that Shark Bite fittings are really good. They are expensive if you are doing a lot of work, but a good way connecting PEX to other forms of pipe. Jim > On Jul 30, 2019, at 9:01 PM, Mark J Bradakis via Shop-talk wrote: > > So I cut out enough sheetrock to get some wrenching room, got the old pipes out without too much trouble. I sprayed a few of the joints with WD40 a few times, maybe that helped, maybe it didn't. > > > So now the question is can I get the sealing face that rusty old union cleaned up enough to get a good seal, or am I going to have to replace it too, which might mean tearing into the wall in the next room. Or maybe not. > > And then, this project has got me thinking. It might be my cue to buy a roll of PEX, a cutter and a crimper and start using it to fix this problem and the next one on my list, the washing machine. At the moment when you select a hot water wash, the machine fills up at a rate of about a gallon a day. Is it just the fill hose being clogged, or the valve, or the pipes feeding it? Fun fun fun! > > mjb. > > > <20190730_183454.jpg>_______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789alpine at gmail.com > From dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jul 31 05:35:01 2019 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2019 11:35:01 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] Plumbing fun In-Reply-To: References: <24df8488-828c-5a56-7041-c62494bc27b0@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <1036828618.149070.1564572901678@mail.yahoo.com> Your a car guy, put some gasket sealer on the union and tighten it up! Dave -----Original Message----- From: Mark J Bradakis via Shop-talk To: shop-talk Sent: Tue, Jul 30, 2019 8:03 pm Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Plumbing fun So I cut out enough sheetrock to get some wrenching room, got the old pipes out without too much trouble.? I sprayed a few of the joints with WD40 a few times, maybe that helped, maybe it didn't. So now the question is can I get the sealing face that rusty old union cleaned up enough to get a good seal, or am I going to have to replace it too, which might mean tearing into the wall in the next room.? Or maybe not. And then, this project has got me thinking.? It might be my cue to buy a roll of PEX, a cutter and a crimper and start using it to fix this problem and the next one on my list, the washing machine.? At the moment when you select a hot water wash, the machine fills up at a rate of about a gallon a day.? Is it just the fill hose being clogged, or the valve, or the pipes feeding it?? Fun fun fun! mjb. _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ronnie.day at gmail.com Tue Jul 30 19:47:52 2019 From: ronnie.day at gmail.com (Ronnie Day) Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2019 20:47:52 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Plumbing fun In-Reply-To: <44.C2.05532.7DBE04D5@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> References: <24df8488-828c-5a56-7041-c62494bc27b0@bradakis.com> <44.C2.05532.7DBE04D5@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Message-ID: We did our small cabin using primarily pex and the sharkbite push to connect (PTC) connectors. Yes, individually they're expensive, but we spent way less than a good crimper would've cost, about 3 years ago when I did the plumbing lines. They also have the advantage of being more easily changed than with a crimper. Shower, bathroom and kitchen sinks all grouped together. I would not buy rolled pex. It's NOT very flexible. The local plumbing supply had sticks in 10 and 20 foot lengths and I used a simple hand held cutter. It worked great. There are plenty of adapters and valves to connect the pex to threaded pipe and fittings. HD and Lowes started carrying more of the no traditional options since we did our place. We're on 10 acres not far from Bryan/College Station and use rainwater collection so the water is filtered probably better than a well without extra filtering would be. The whole system has worked out very well. RD On Tue, Jul 30, 2019 at 8:17 PM Steven Trovato via Shop-talk < shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote: > There are screens at the inlets where the hoses connect to the back > of my washing machine. When I have this problem, I always find a > bunch of sediment and debris clogging up the screens. It is easy to > check and easy to fix. Invest ten minutes in checking that before > you start a major project. These are what I'm talking > about: > www.amazon.com/Danco-80070-Washers-Screen-Black/dp/B000KKULR2/ref=sr_1_11 > > -Steve > > At 09:01 PM 7/30/2019, Mark J Bradakis via Shop-talk wrote: > > >And then, this project has got me thinking. It might be my cue to > >buy a roll of PEX, a cutter and a crimper and start using it to fix > >this problem and the next one on my list, the washing machine. At > >the moment when you select a hot water wash, the machine fills up at > >a rate of about a gallon a day. Is it just the fill hose being > >clogged, or the valve, or the pipes feeding it? Fun fun fun! > > > >mjb. > > > --- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ronnie.day at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: