From eric at megageek.com  Sun Dec  1 16:44:14 2019
From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com)
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2019 18:44:14 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Is this thing still on? <Thanksgiving and Leaf Blowers>
Message-ID: <OF522EFBA9.92439E5E-ON852584C3.0081D7C5-852584C3.008264FD@mail.megageek.com>

Hey, this list has been real quite lately.

I just got home from a 6 month EPIC build with the Army.  Experience of a 
lifetime!

I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving.  Again, I give thanks for the 
awesome brain trust here!  (and as soon as I get this email back with the 
donate link, I plan to drop some 'thanks' on the moderator!)

One question, in my quest to always buy tools when they are going on 
clearance, I'm in the market for a backpack leaf blower.

Price is not really a limiting factor, but I want POWER!!!  Any 
suggestions?  It seems that leaf blowers play the 'air compressor' game 
and claim ridiculous stats with no one holding their feet to the fire.

Any suggestions?  I plan to buy right away.  I normally use Amazon but if 
there is a place other that Amazon to get it, let me know.

Thanks again and I hope all is well!


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Tech Viper
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Dec  1 17:58:22 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2019 16:58:22 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Is this thing still on? <Thanksgiving and Leaf
 Blowers>
In-Reply-To: <OF522EFBA9.92439E5E-ON852584C3.0081D7C5-852584C3.008264FD@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF522EFBA9.92439E5E-ON852584C3.0081D7C5-852584C3.008264FD@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <0f683254-b144-f43d-b5c8-e5c2d0ff6f06@comcast.net>

I don't have a backpack blower, but I have a Stihl handheld.? All the 
Stihl gear I have is pretty reliable, and I don't think you can go wrong 
with it.

Bob

On 12/1/2019 3:44 PM, eric--- via Shop-talk wrote:
> Hey, this list has been real quite lately.
>
> I just got home from a 6 month EPIC build with the Army. ?Experience 
> of a lifetime!
>
> I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving. ?Again, I give thanks for 
> the awesome brain trust here! ?(and as soon as I get this email back 
> with the donate link, I plan to drop some 'thanks' on the moderator!)
>
> One question, in my quest to always buy tools when they are going on 
> clearance, I'm in the market for a backpack leaf blower.
>
> Price is not really a limiting factor, but I want POWER!!! ?Any 
> suggestions? ?It seems that leaf blowers play the 'air compressor' 
> game and claim ridiculous stats with no one holding their feet to the 
> fire.
>
> Any suggestions? ?I plan to buy right away. ?I normally use Amazon but 
> if there is a place other that Amazon to get it, let me know.
>
> Thanks again and I hope all is well!
>
>
> Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
> Tech Viper
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a 
> rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your 
> territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt? 

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From fishplate at gmail.com  Sun Dec  1 19:20:03 2019
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2019 21:20:03 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Is this thing still on? <Thanksgiving and Leaf
 Blowers>
In-Reply-To: <0f683254-b144-f43d-b5c8-e5c2d0ff6f06@comcast.net>
References: <OF522EFBA9.92439E5E-ON852584C3.0081D7C5-852584C3.008264FD@mail.megageek.com>
 <0f683254-b144-f43d-b5c8-e5c2d0ff6f06@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CMHWeZZDxnQMMJLLEHL1r2XF3GPkR1H0=g7ciCBjfo+SA@mail.gmail.com>

Another vote for Stihl...

On Sun, Dec 1, 2019 at 7:58 PM Bob Spidell via Shop-talk <
shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I don't have a backpack blower, but I have a Stihl handheld.  All the
> Stihl gear I have is pretty reliable, and I don't think you can go wrong
> with it.
>
> Bob
>
> On 12/1/2019 3:44 PM, eric--- via Shop-talk wrote:
>
> Hey, this list has been real quite lately.
>
> I just got home from a 6 month EPIC build with the Army.  Experience of a
> lifetime!
>
> I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving.  Again, I give thanks for the
> awesome brain trust here!  (and as soon as I get this email back with the
> donate link, I plan to drop some 'thanks' on the moderator!)
>
> One question, in my quest to always buy tools when they are going on
> clearance, I'm in the market for a backpack leaf blower.
>
> Price is not really a limiting factor, but I want POWER!!!  Any
> suggestions?  It seems that leaf blowers play the 'air compressor' game and
> claim ridiculous stats with no one holding their feet to the fire.
>
> Any suggestions?  I plan to buy right away.  I normally use Amazon but if
> there is a place other that Amazon to get it, let me know.
>
> Thanks again and I hope all is well!
>
>
> Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
> Tech Viper
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt?
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate at gmail.com
>
>
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From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Dec  1 21:31:54 2019
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2019 21:31:54 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Is this thing still on? <Thanksgiving and Leaf
 Blowers>
In-Reply-To: <OF522EFBA9.92439E5E-ON852584C3.0081D7C5-852584C3.008264FD@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF522EFBA9.92439E5E-ON852584C3.0081D7C5-852584C3.008264FD@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <c25526db-0f62-7f17-4655-3cb8bfe3a715@bradakis.com>

On 12/1/19 4:44 PM, eric--- via Shop-talk wrote:
> Hey, this list has been real quite lately.
>
> I just got home from a 6 month EPIC build with the Army. ?Experience 
> of a lifetime!
>
> I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving. ?Again, I give thanks for 
> the awesome brain trust here! ?(and as soon as I get this email back 
> with the donate link, I plan to drop some 'thanks' on the moderator!) 


Yep, still here.? And thanks for the contribution to assist in keeping 
it here.

I did, however, discover a problem earlier today.? Right near the donate 
link is a link to archives of the various lists.? And these archives 
have a search function.? Problem is that even though messages are 
getting added to the archives, the search function is not including new 
messages.? Not sure when this happened, but it may have been as early as 
2012.? I've not yet looked into what is happening, if it is maybe some 
size limit or some obscure software routine that broke when some system 
file was updated or what. These Team.Net archives are a great resource, 
I want them to remain as helpful as possible.? I'll see if I can fix the 
current problem, or look into a whole new scheme.? Just something else 
for your overpaid and underworked list admin to do with all the free 
time he has on his hands!

mjb.



From bk13 at earthlink.net  Sun Dec  1 22:42:15 2019
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2019 21:42:15 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Is this thing still on? <Thanksgiving and Leaf
 Blowers>
In-Reply-To: <OF522EFBA9.92439E5E-ON852584C3.0081D7C5-852584C3.008264FD@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF522EFBA9.92439E5E-ON852584C3.0081D7C5-852584C3.008264FD@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <37fd854c-e6bb-d0be-6562-83c9a4e68b79@earthlink.net>

Eric - I have a Stihl BR 500 backpack blower.? The local air quality 
management district (California thing) had a blower exchange for 
landscapers and sold/discounted this model - less emissions and lower 
noise then the older two stroke blowers most of us hate to hear.

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/blowers-and-shredder-vacs/professional-blowers/br500/

I normally put in ear plugs, but for a quick use, you can get away 
without them.? It actually seems quieter than my electric blower. I've 
only used TruFuel and had no problems in the three years I've had the 
blower.

Best to buy from a local dealer with products like this.? Does not 
appear to be sold on Amazon.

Echo has a similar product.? I recommend a blower with the throttle on 
the blower so your left hand is free to pick something up or move 
something out of the way.? The other design is one hand to hold the 
blower tube and the other for the throttle.

Brian


On 12/1/2019 3:44 PM, eric--- via Shop-talk wrote:
> Hey, this list has been real quite lately.
>
> I just got home from a 6 month EPIC build with the Army. ?Experience 
> of a lifetime!
>
> I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving. ?Again, I give thanks for 
> the awesome brain trust here! ?(and as soon as I get this email back 
> with the donate link, I plan to drop some 'thanks' on the moderator!)
>
> One question, in my quest to always buy tools when they are going on 
> clearance, I'm in the market for a backpack leaf blower.
>
> Price is not really a limiting factor, but I want POWER!!! ?Any 
> suggestions? ?It seems that leaf blowers play the 'air compressor' 
> game and claim ridiculous stats with no one holding their feet to the 
> fire.
>
> Any suggestions? ?I plan to buy right away. ?I normally use Amazon but 
> if there is a place other that Amazon to get it, let me know.
>
> Thanks again and I hope all is well!
>
>
> Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
> Tech Viper
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a 
> rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your 
> territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt?
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net
>

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From fishplate at gmail.com  Mon Dec  2 02:11:58 2019
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2019 04:11:58 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Is this thing still on? <Thanksgiving and Leaf
 Blowers>
In-Reply-To: <37fd854c-e6bb-d0be-6562-83c9a4e68b79@earthlink.net>
References: <OF522EFBA9.92439E5E-ON852584C3.0081D7C5-852584C3.008264FD@mail.megageek.com>
 <37fd854c-e6bb-d0be-6562-83c9a4e68b79@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CO5-vnJ1A7zHcaohPdVuuP3PKgw-Jq-=xQdHxaeE=xKSQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Mon, Dec 2, 2019 at 12:42 AM Brian Kemp via Shop-talk <
shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:

>
> I normally put in ear plugs, but for a quick use, you can get away without
> them.
>

Yikes!

As someone who has suffered from tinnitus for years, no.  Just no.  Ear
muffs are cheap enough that you can keep a pair right on the machine.  For
instance,
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Protection-Protectors-equipment-operations/dp/B0017YLTAI/ref=sr_1_9


Your hearing is too valuable to skimp.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
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From dhlocker at comcast.net  Mon Dec  2 06:01:17 2019
From: dhlocker at comcast.net (Donald H Locker)
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2019 08:01:17 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Is this thing still on? <Thanksgiving and Leaf
 Blowers>
In-Reply-To: <CAO8Q7CO5-vnJ1A7zHcaohPdVuuP3PKgw-Jq-=xQdHxaeE=xKSQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <OF522EFBA9.92439E5E-ON852584C3.0081D7C5-852584C3.008264FD@mail.megageek.com>
 <37fd854c-e6bb-d0be-6562-83c9a4e68b79@earthlink.net>
 <CAO8Q7CO5-vnJ1A7zHcaohPdVuuP3PKgw-Jq-=xQdHxaeE=xKSQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <50a74bda-3559-1031-a599-db332b982479@comcast.net>

Seconding Jeff's comment about hearing protection. Tinnitus is nasty; trust us.

Then, I'll pop in with a recommendation to forget about using a blower. 
Raking is actually easier on the human body (in terms of muscle stress, 
joint strain, and hearing) and doesn't throw dust, microbes, fungi, and 
mold spores into the air (where they don't belong and cause recurring 
health problems.)

Donald.
--
*Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
() no proprietary attachments; no html mail
/\ <http://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml>

On 02-Dec-2019 04:11, Jeff Scarbrough via Shop-talk wrote:
> 
> 
> On Mon, Dec 2, 2019 at 12:42 AM Brian Kemp via Shop-talk 
> <shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:shop-talk at autox.team.net>> wrote:
> 
> 
>     I normally put in ear plugs, but for a quick use, you can get away
>     without them. 
> 
> 
> Yikes!
> 
> As someone who has suffered from tinnitus for years, no.? Just no.? Ear 
> muffs are cheap enough that you can keep a pair right on the machine.? For 
> instance, 
> https://www.amazon.com/3M-Protection-Protectors-equipment-operations/dp/B0017YLTAI/ref=sr_1_9 
> 
> Your hearing is too valuable to skimp.
> 
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
> 

From tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com  Mon Dec  2 06:53:27 2019
From: tims_datsun_stuff at outlook.com (Tim .)
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2019 13:53:27 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] Is this thing still on? <Thanksgiving and Leaf
 Blowers>
In-Reply-To: <OF522EFBA9.92439E5E-ON852584C3.0081D7C5-852584C3.008264FD@mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF522EFBA9.92439E5E-ON852584C3.0081D7C5-852584C3.008264FD@mail.megageek.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR04MB51472CE3F4439B0385A9C9CEB4430@DM6PR04MB5147.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

My contribution is that I use the detachable unit from my Husky shop vac. It is fine for what I need it for but does require an extension cord which is not a big deal for my half acre or so lot.

My gripe is that amazon is bad bad bad. Support brick and mortar shops because if we don't they will one day all be gone. Remember Sears? I remember having a hardware store in the small town we live it. That's gone. I can go on and on.

tim

________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of eric--- via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 1, 2019 5:44 PM
To: Shop-talk at autox.team.net <Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Is this thing still on? <Thanksgiving and Leaf Blowers>

Hey, this list has been real quite lately.

I just got home from a 6 month EPIC build with the Army.  Experience of a lifetime!

I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving.  Again, I give thanks for the awesome brain trust here!  (and as soon as I get this email back with the donate link, I plan to drop some 'thanks' on the moderator!)

One question, in my quest to always buy tools when they are going on clearance, I'm in the market for a backpack leaf blower.

Price is not really a limiting factor, but I want POWER!!!  Any suggestions?  It seems that leaf blowers play the 'air compressor' game and claim ridiculous stats with no one holding their feet to the fire.

Any suggestions?  I plan to buy right away.  I normally use Amazon but if there is a place other that Amazon to get it, let me know.

Thanks again and I hope all is well!


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Tech Viper
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson
-Who is John Galt?
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Dec  2 07:46:24 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2019 06:46:24 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Is this thing still on? <Thanksgiving and Leaf
 Blowers>
In-Reply-To: <CAO8Q7CO5-vnJ1A7zHcaohPdVuuP3PKgw-Jq-=xQdHxaeE=xKSQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <OF522EFBA9.92439E5E-ON852584C3.0081D7C5-852584C3.008264FD@mail.megageek.com>
 <37fd854c-e6bb-d0be-6562-83c9a4e68b79@earthlink.net>
 <CAO8Q7CO5-vnJ1A7zHcaohPdVuuP3PKgw-Jq-=xQdHxaeE=xKSQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5c0cd83e-d144-f523-f6dc-20e3dcebdd59@comcast.net>

Yep.? Although I acquired tinnitus from a different activity--someone 
discharged a pistol close to my left ear as a 'joke' during target 
practice when I was a young man--it is a bitch to live with (no one, 
except maybe serious shooters, thought to use hearing protection back 
then).? FWIW, I got some relief from a product called 'Lipo Flavonoid' 
after trying several other remedies (including drops).? I have no 
financial interest in this product, but it has helped limit the 
instances when I feel like sticking an ice pick in my ear.

Not necessarily for the noise issue--but it's a damn good reason--I have 
been acquiring more battery-powered tools for the convenience of not 
having to start a recalcitrant 2-stroke or drag an air hose around.?? 
The newer 20V lithium-powered tools are surprisingly powerful, including 
an impact wrench that, according to specs, is more powerful torque-wise 
than air-driven, and I have an electric hedger that truly surprised me 
with its endurance and power (it'll cut up to 3/4" vine branches for 
over an hour).? I've gone with DeWalt because it's what the 'pros'--and 
product placement in TV shows--seem to favor, but I'm sure Milwaukee and 
others are probably just as good.? Dunno about electric leaf blowers; 
anyone use one? I've never seen a backpack one.

Bob

ps.? The 4-stroke Stihl string trimmer I have requires 89-octane, which 
isn't available at Costco unfortunately, and it still needs mixed fuel.? 
I suspect more tools will go this way for noise issues.? Stihl 
recommends their full synthetic mix oil which, since I don't use a lot 
is worth the extra dough.


On 12/2/2019 1:11 AM, Jeff Scarbrough via Shop-talk wrote:
>
>
> On Mon, Dec 2, 2019 at 12:42 AM Brian Kemp via Shop-talk 
> <shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:shop-talk at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>
>     I normally put in ear plugs, but for a quick use, you can get away
>     without them.
>
>
> Yikes!
>
> As someone who has suffered from tinnitus for years, no. Just no.? Ear 
> muffs are cheap enough that you can keep a pair right on the machine.? 
> For instance, 
> https://www.amazon.com/3M-Protection-Protectors-equipment-operations/dp/B0017YLTAI/ref=sr_1_9 
>
> Your hearing is too valuable to skimp.
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
>

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Dec  2 07:53:17 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2019 06:53:17 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Is this thing still on? <Thanksgiving and Leaf
 Blowers>
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR04MB51472CE3F4439B0385A9C9CEB4430@DM6PR04MB5147.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <OF522EFBA9.92439E5E-ON852584C3.0081D7C5-852584C3.008264FD@mail.megageek.com>
 <DM6PR04MB51472CE3F4439B0385A9C9CEB4430@DM6PR04MB5147.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <d543f07f-d703-556d-0f93-15784715c3d1@comcast.net>

When I finally moved close to an Orchard Hardware I was delighted. Then, 
the Orchard closed down, but was replaced by an Ace Hardware which seems 
better all around than the OSH (more fasteners!).? There appears to be a 
few Aces in this region that are owned by the same guy.

Bob

On 12/2/2019 5:53 AM, Tim . via Shop-talk wrote:
> My contribution is that I use the detachable unit from my Husky shop 
> vac. It is fine for what I need it for but does require an extension 
> cord which is not a big deal for my half acre or so lot.
>
> My gripe is that amazon is bad bad bad. Support brick and mortar shops 
> because if we don't they will one day all be gone. Remember Sears? I 
> remember having a hardware store in the small town we live it. That's 
> gone. I can go on and on.
>
> tim
>

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From jamesf at groupwbench.org  Mon Dec  2 08:30:31 2019
From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin)
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2019 10:30:31 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Is this thing still on? <Thanksgiving and Leaf
 Blowers>
In-Reply-To: <d543f07f-d703-556d-0f93-15784715c3d1@comcast.net>
References: <OF522EFBA9.92439E5E-ON852584C3.0081D7C5-852584C3.008264FD@mail.megageek.com>
 <DM6PR04MB51472CE3F4439B0385A9C9CEB4430@DM6PR04MB5147.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
 <d543f07f-d703-556d-0f93-15784715c3d1@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <75032DB4-B80D-4944-B0E2-84BB946FF07E@groupwbench.org>

Drifiting a bit off topic but it should be noted that Sears closed because of greed-based mismanagement and nothing else. OSH was owned by Sears and died by their sword. OSH was my mecca and it was like watching a neighborhood of longstanding, beautiful, diverse, hand built homes being razed and replaced by a Soviet-era apartment block. 

Ace in my hood is just ok, way fewer fasteners and always out of most of the things I want. An employee told me that's becasuse the district managers get bonuses based on how low they can keep inventory. No idea if that's true.

They also have an attack parrot who will nip you if you get too close, like, say, when walking around the store not expecting to violate a parrot's territory. Both the store manager, and the local neighbors, crucified me when I brought this up as a problem, especially for small kids, so I crawled back under my curmudgeopn rock when I await rescue from my people. 

Amazon has been great for reviews and for weird stuff, so I'm torn between how I feel. 

jim

> On Dec 2, 2019, at 9:53 AM, Bob Spidell via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> When I finally moved close to an Orchard Hardware I was delighted.  Then, the Orchard closed down, but was replaced by an Ace Hardware which seems better all around than the OSH (more fasteners!).  There appears to be a few Aces in this region that are owned by the same guy.
> 
> Bob
> 
> On 12/2/2019 5:53 AM, Tim . via Shop-talk wrote:
>> My contribution is that I use the detachable unit from my Husky shop vac. It is fine for what I need it for but does require an extension cord which is not a big deal for my half acre or so lot. 
>> 
>> My gripe is that amazon is bad bad bad. Support brick and mortar shops because if we don't they will one day all be gone. Remember Sears? I remember having a hardware store in the small town we live it. That's gone. I can go on and on. 
>> 
>> tim
>> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org
> 

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Dec  2 08:38:48 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2019 07:38:48 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Is this thing still on? <Thanksgiving and Leaf
 Blowers>
In-Reply-To: <75032DB4-B80D-4944-B0E2-84BB946FF07E@groupwbench.org>
References: <OF522EFBA9.92439E5E-ON852584C3.0081D7C5-852584C3.008264FD@mail.megageek.com>
 <DM6PR04MB51472CE3F4439B0385A9C9CEB4430@DM6PR04MB5147.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
 <d543f07f-d703-556d-0f93-15784715c3d1@comcast.net>
 <75032DB4-B80D-4944-B0E2-84BB946FF07E@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <f29de25a-6e07-1066-6140-151ba92e89c0@comcast.net>

Lowe's bought OSH--presumably, for pennies on the dollar--then promptly 
shut it down.? Lowe's now carries Craftsman tools; I have no idea what 
the quality or warranty are these days.

Eddie Lampert is a piece of work, for sure.


On 12/2/2019 7:30 AM, Jim Franklin wrote:
> Drifiting a bit off topic but it should be noted that Sears closed because of greed-based mismanagement and nothing else. OSH was owned by Sears and died by their sword. OSH was my mecca and it was like watching a neighborhood of longstanding, beautiful, diverse, hand built homes being razed and replaced by a Soviet-era apartment block.
>
> Ace in my hood is just ok, way fewer fasteners and always out of most of the things I want. An employee told me that's becasuse the district managers get bonuses based on how low they can keep inventory. No idea if that's true.
>
> They also have an attack parrot who will nip you if you get too close, like, say, when walking around the store not expecting to violate a parrot's territory. Both the store manager, and the local neighbors, crucified me when I brought this up as a problem, especially for small kids, so I crawled back under my curmudgeopn rock when I await rescue from my people.
>
> Amazon has been great for reviews and for weird stuff, so I'm torn between how I feel.
>
> jim
>
>> On Dec 2, 2019, at 9:53 AM, Bob Spidell via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> When I finally moved close to an Orchard Hardware I was delighted.  Then, the Orchard closed down, but was replaced by an Ace Hardware which seems better all around than the OSH (more fasteners!).  There appears to be a few Aces in this region that are owned by the same guy.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> On 12/2/2019 5:53 AM, Tim . via Shop-talk wrote:
>>> My contribution is that I use the detachable unit from my Husky shop vac. It is fine for what I need it for but does require an extension cord which is not a big deal for my half acre or so lot.
>>>
>>> My gripe is that amazon is bad bad bad. Support brick and mortar shops because if we don't they will one day all be gone. Remember Sears? I remember having a hardware store in the small town we live it. That's gone. I can go on and on.
>>>
>>> tim
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org
>>


From fishplate at gmail.com  Mon Dec  2 10:11:46 2019
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2019 12:11:46 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Is this thing still on? <Thanksgiving and Leaf
 Blowers>
In-Reply-To: <5c0cd83e-d144-f523-f6dc-20e3dcebdd59@comcast.net>
References: <OF522EFBA9.92439E5E-ON852584C3.0081D7C5-852584C3.008264FD@mail.megageek.com>
 <37fd854c-e6bb-d0be-6562-83c9a4e68b79@earthlink.net>
 <CAO8Q7CO5-vnJ1A7zHcaohPdVuuP3PKgw-Jq-=xQdHxaeE=xKSQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <5c0cd83e-d144-f523-f6dc-20e3dcebdd59@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CMCC=iaY9OpNaL8h4+ba-bkzRT6mv_85+e-1kUBsyOsFg@mail.gmail.com>

On Mon, Dec 2, 2019 at 9:46 AM Bob Spidell via Shop-talk <
shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:


> .  Dunno about electric leaf blowers; anyone use one?  I've never seen a
> backpack one.
>

I have a Ryobi One+ 18V blower.  It's adequate for blowing the deck or the
area in front of the garage.  I have three acres of hardwoods , though, so
I have a gas blower too.  And I have a rake that I use for small yard
jobs.
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From bk13 at earthlink.net  Mon Dec  2 23:09:36 2019
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2019 22:09:36 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Is this thing still on? <Thanksgiving and Leaf
 Blowers>
In-Reply-To: <CAO8Q7CO5-vnJ1A7zHcaohPdVuuP3PKgw-Jq-=xQdHxaeE=xKSQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <OF522EFBA9.92439E5E-ON852584C3.0081D7C5-852584C3.008264FD@mail.megageek.com>
 <37fd854c-e6bb-d0be-6562-83c9a4e68b79@earthlink.net>
 <CAO8Q7CO5-vnJ1A7zHcaohPdVuuP3PKgw-Jq-=xQdHxaeE=xKSQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <c4fceac6-e6fd-0edd-0b83-071b5dbd97fc@earthlink.net>

Keep in mind than I'm specifically talking about a low noise leaf blower 
for a short period.? The specs says it is only 65dB, compared to 60dB 
for normal conversation.? Nothing like the screamer that my neighbor's 
landscaper uses, where I've put on the earmuffs in my house.

When using a router or angle grinder, I often use both foam ear plugs 
plus earmuffs.

Brian

On 12/2/2019 1:11 AM, Jeff Scarbrough via Shop-talk wrote:
>
>
> On Mon, Dec 2, 2019 at 12:42 AM Brian Kemp via Shop-talk 
> <shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:shop-talk at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>
>     I normally put in ear plugs, but for a quick use, you can get away
>     without them.
>
>
> Yikes!
>
> As someone who has suffered from tinnitus for years, no. Just no.? Ear 
> muffs are cheap enough that you can keep a pair right on the machine.? 
> For instance, 
> https://www.amazon.com/3M-Protection-Protectors-equipment-operations/dp/B0017YLTAI/ref=sr_1_9 
>
> Your hearing is too valuable to skimp.
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net
>

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From rrochlin at comcast.net  Tue Dec  3 07:28:50 2019
From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Rochlin Robert)
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2019 09:28:50 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Is this thing still on? <Thanksgiving and Leaf
 Blowers>
In-Reply-To: <c4fceac6-e6fd-0edd-0b83-071b5dbd97fc@earthlink.net>
References: <OF522EFBA9.92439E5E-ON852584C3.0081D7C5-852584C3.008264FD@mail.megageek.com>
 <37fd854c-e6bb-d0be-6562-83c9a4e68b79@earthlink.net>
 <CAO8Q7CO5-vnJ1A7zHcaohPdVuuP3PKgw-Jq-=xQdHxaeE=xKSQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <c4fceac6-e6fd-0edd-0b83-071b5dbd97fc@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <DB09EDF3-A969-4D00-B856-AB3A601E62D4@comcast.net>

	I?ve used noise cancelling headphones that fit in the ear for years. I use them with my backpack leaf blower, lawn mower, and snow blower. Not only are they extraordinary at canceling the engine noise, I can listen to music or podcasts while I?m working of have no input and just enjoy not being assailed by the engine  noise.
	Best,
	Bob

> On Dec 3, 2019, at 1:09 AM, Brian Kemp via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Keep in mind than I'm specifically talking about a low noise leaf blower for a short period.  The specs says it is only 65dB, compared to 60dB for normal conversation.  Nothing like the screamer that my     neighbor's landscaper uses, where I've put on the earmuffs in my house.  
> 
> When using a router or angle grinder, I often use both foam ear plugs plus earmuffs.
> 
> Brian
> 
> On 12/2/2019 1:11 AM, Jeff Scarbrough via Shop-talk wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> On Mon, Dec 2, 2019 at 12:42 AM Brian Kemp via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:shop-talk at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>> 
>> I normally put in ear plugs, but for a quick use, you can get away without them. 
>> 
>> Yikes!
>> 
>> As someone who has suffered from tinnitus for years, no.  Just no.  Ear muffs are cheap enough that you can keep a pair right on the machine.  For instance, https://www.amazon.com/3M-Protection-Protectors-equipment-operations/dp/B0017YLTAI/ref=sr_1_9 <https://www.amazon.com/3M-Protection-Protectors-equipment-operations/dp/B0017YLTAI/ref=sr_1_9>  
>>  
>> Your hearing is too valuable to skimp.
>> 
>> Jeff Scarbrough
>> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk <http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net>
>> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rrochlin at comcast.net
> 

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From jdinnis at gmail.com  Mon Dec  2 06:59:53 2019
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2019 07:59:53 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Is this thing still on? <Thanksgiving and Leaf
 Blowers>
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR04MB51472CE3F4439B0385A9C9CEB4430@DM6PR04MB5147.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <OF522EFBA9.92439E5E-ON852584C3.0081D7C5-852584C3.008264FD@mail.megageek.com>
 <DM6PR04MB51472CE3F4439B0385A9C9CEB4430@DM6PR04MB5147.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CANuE7YDJPHgG+Wq5SZPKZUNvZa_NUFWv1XuGfy6=EjpdFAcX1Q@mail.gmail.com>

Fortunately if you buy a Stihl, you won't get it form Amazon.  Or Wal-Mat
either for that matter.  They will only sell to dealers who will take the
time to assemble the machine, and make sure you know how to use it.  This
turned out somewhat comically when my wife wanted to buy me a new Stihl
chainsaw for Christmas a few years back.  The up-side was she learned the
basics of chainsaw operation.  The down-side was she then had to but a saw
full of fuel and oil in her car to take it home.  Still one of the best
gifts I have ever received.

On Mon, Dec 2, 2019 at 7:53 AM Tim . via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> My contribution is that I use the detachable unit from my Husky shop vac.
> It is fine for what I need it for but does require an extension cord which
> is not a big deal for my half acre or so lot.
>
> My gripe is that amazon is bad bad bad. Support brick and mortar shops
> because if we don't they will one day all be gone. Remember Sears? I
> remember having a hardware store in the small town we live it. That's gone.
> I can go on and on.
>
> tim
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of eric---
> via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Sunday, December 1, 2019 5:44 PM
> *To:* Shop-talk at autox.team.net <Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Shop-talk] Is this thing still on? <Thanksgiving and Leaf
> Blowers>
>
> Hey, this list has been real quite lately.
>
> I just got home from a 6 month EPIC build with the Army.  Experience of a
> lifetime!
>
> I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving.  Again, I give thanks for the
> awesome brain trust here!  (and as soon as I get this email back with the
> donate link, I plan to drop some 'thanks' on the moderator!)
>
> One question, in my quest to always buy tools when they are going on
> clearance, I'm in the market for a backpack leaf blower.
>
> Price is not really a limiting factor, but I want POWER!!!  Any
> suggestions?  It seems that leaf blowers play the 'air compressor' game and
> claim ridiculous stats with no one holding their feet to the fire.
>
> Any suggestions?  I plan to buy right away.  I normally use Amazon but if
> there is a place other that Amazon to get it, let me know.
>
> Thanks again and I hope all is well!
>
>
> Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
> Tech Viper
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Dec  2 12:04:22 2019
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2019 19:04:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Is this thing still on? <Thanksgiving and Leaf
 Blowers>
In-Reply-To: <75032DB4-B80D-4944-B0E2-84BB946FF07E@groupwbench.org>
References: <OF522EFBA9.92439E5E-ON852584C3.0081D7C5-852584C3.008264FD@mail.megageek.com>
 <DM6PR04MB51472CE3F4439B0385A9C9CEB4430@DM6PR04MB5147.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
 <d543f07f-d703-556d-0f93-15784715c3d1@comcast.net>
 <75032DB4-B80D-4944-B0E2-84BB946FF07E@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <930096244.5102610.1575313462943@mail.yahoo.com>

 Since they are franchise operations they vary based on the whims of the owner.? It could be that the guy (group) who owns the one in your neighborhood operates that way but the one in my neighborhood does not.? The smart guys know that they live or die on the perceived value of the service they provide.


Ace in my hood is just ok, way fewer fasteners and always out of most of the things I want. An employee told me that's becasuse the district managers get bonuses based on how low they can keep inventory. No idea if that's true.
 
 
Dave 


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From fishplate at gmail.com  Sun Dec  8 09:49:04 2019
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2019 11:49:04 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Hatchet
In-Reply-To: <CAO8Q7COsJM8mzmguJadDAZZurNPNTPb370LiA2C3YynLzcpgmA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAO8Q7COsJM8mzmguJadDAZZurNPNTPb370LiA2C3YynLzcpgmA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CN9+Rncdx8gQnSQLrj3kbdn27A-ruOvwq4K+EzFqLiBeQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hatchet Update:  I bought the Fiskars X7.

In retrospect, the X11 may have been a better choice.  The X7 is about 1.5
pounds, while hte X11 is a little over 2 pounds.  A bit more oomph.  The X7
is perfect for the trunk of your car, if you drive in forested areas during
an ice storm...

On Sat, Nov 9, 2019 at 4:58 PM Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at gmail.com> wrote:

> Well, I've destroyed my ancient Plumb 14 inch hatchet.  I probably
> shouldn't have abused it...
>
> Anyone bought a quality hatchet lately that they'd recommend?
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
>
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From jniolon at att.net  Mon Dec  9 11:36:56 2019
From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon)
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2019 12:36:56 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] oak mold ???
References: <05EA3635D8EA4EF38A2FADF38FC9EA13.ref@Johnsdesktop>
Message-ID: <05EA3635D8EA4EF38A2FADF38FC9EA13@Johnsdesktop>

I keep my car hauler trailer parked under a huge oak tree most of the time.  Pulled it out yesterday to use and it?s covered in ?mold? or something.  
Soap and water won?t touch it.  Tried dawn dish soap with Clorox and it sorta cut it but took serious scrubbing... Old men do not like scrubbing !


Don?t know if this is something particular to the oak tree or not but I need something that will cut it and not eat me...  suggestions ??

john


https://jniolon.classicpickup.com\\


https://jniolon.classicpickup.com/
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From parkanzky at gmail.com  Mon Dec  9 11:45:27 2019
From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky)
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2019 13:45:27 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] oak mold ???
In-Reply-To: <05EA3635D8EA4EF38A2FADF38FC9EA13@Johnsdesktop>
References: <05EA3635D8EA4EF38A2FADF38FC9EA13.ref@Johnsdesktop>
 <05EA3635D8EA4EF38A2FADF38FC9EA13@Johnsdesktop>
Message-ID: <CAOEriimeCCtJzvNnYo-DbO10ci=y5638qU=2k0a26JAvXXxKXA@mail.gmail.com>

Pressure washer?

On Mon, Dec 9, 2019 at 1:37 PM john niolon via Shop-talk
<shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> I keep my car hauler trailer parked under a huge oak tree most of the time.  Pulled it out yesterday to use and it?s covered in ?mold? or something.
> Soap and water won?t touch it.  Tried dawn dish soap with Clorox and it sorta cut it but took serious scrubbing... Old men do not like scrubbing !
>
>
> Don?t know if this is something particular to the oak tree or not but I need something that will cut it and not eat me...  suggestions ??
>
> john
>
>
> https://jniolon.classicpickup.com\\
>
>
> https://jniolon.classicpickup.com/

From jniolon at att.net  Mon Dec  9 11:49:16 2019
From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon)
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2019 12:49:16 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] oak mold ???
In-Reply-To: <CAOEriimeCCtJzvNnYo-DbO10ci=y5638qU=2k0a26JAvXXxKXA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <05EA3635D8EA4EF38A2FADF38FC9EA13.ref@Johnsdesktop>
 <05EA3635D8EA4EF38A2FADF38FC9EA13@Johnsdesktop>
 <CAOEriimeCCtJzvNnYo-DbO10ci=y5638qU=2k0a26JAvXXxKXA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <961310DD3C2245F3A4F17859482BFA59@Johnsdesktop>

yea Paul, I should have done that but it didn't occur to me !!!  next time 
I'll mix up some house cleaner for p. washer and try that..  Hoping I could 
find something to spray on and hose off... why is everything
hard on old dumb people ?

j

-----Original Message----- 
From: Paul Parkanzky
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2019 12:45 PM
To: john niolon
Cc: shop-talk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] oak mold ???

Pressure washer?

On Mon, Dec 9, 2019 at 1:37 PM john niolon via Shop-talk
<shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> I keep my car hauler trailer parked under a huge oak tree most of the 
> time.  Pulled it out yesterday to use and it?s covered in ?mold? or 
> something.
> Soap and water won?t touch it.  Tried dawn dish soap with Clorox and it 
> sorta cut it but took serious scrubbing... Old men do not like scrubbing !
>
>
> Don?t know if this is something particular to the oak tree or not but I 
> need something that will cut it and not eat me...  suggestions ??
>
> john
>
>
> https://jniolon.classicpickup.com\\
>
>
> https://jniolon.classicpickup.com/ 


From 1789alpine at gmail.com  Mon Dec  9 11:55:11 2019
From: 1789alpine at gmail.com (Jim Stone)
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2019 13:55:11 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] oak mold ???
In-Reply-To: <961310DD3C2245F3A4F17859482BFA59@Johnsdesktop>
References: <05EA3635D8EA4EF38A2FADF38FC9EA13.ref@Johnsdesktop>
 <05EA3635D8EA4EF38A2FADF38FC9EA13@Johnsdesktop>
 <CAOEriimeCCtJzvNnYo-DbO10ci=y5638qU=2k0a26JAvXXxKXA@mail.gmail.com>
 <961310DD3C2245F3A4F17859482BFA59@Johnsdesktop>
Message-ID: <B640C98D-E857-4F0A-941F-3FBCA5ACEBE9@gmail.com>

We?ve had very good results recently using 30-Second Cleaner on a very dirty garage door.  Based on the smell, I?d say it contains quite a lot of bleach and should be very effective on mold.  https://www.amazon.com/30-SECONDS-Outdoor-Cleaner-Attachment/dp/B074NWCHZC/ref=sr_1_2?crid=PMZFWIMCZPYS&keywords=30+second+cleaner+outdoor&qid=1575917409&sprefix=30+second%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-2 <https://www.amazon.com/30-SECONDS-Outdoor-Cleaner-Attachment/dp/B074NWCHZC/ref=sr_1_2?crid=PMZFWIMCZPYS&keywords=30+second+cleaner+outdoor&qid=1575917409&sprefix=30+second,aps,144&sr=8-2>


> On Dec 9, 2019, at 1:49 PM, john niolon via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> yea Paul, I should have done that but it didn't occur to me !!!  next time I'll mix up some house cleaner for p. washer and try that..  Hoping I could find something to spray on and hose off... why is everything
> hard on old dumb people ?
> 
> j
> 
> -----Original Message----- From: Paul Parkanzky
> Sent: Monday, December 09, 2019 12:45 PM
> To: john niolon
> Cc: shop-talk
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] oak mold ???
> 
> Pressure washer?
> 
> On Mon, Dec 9, 2019 at 1:37 PM john niolon via Shop-talk
> <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>> I keep my car hauler trailer parked under a huge oak tree most of the time.  Pulled it out yesterday to use and it?s covered in ?mold? or something.
>> Soap and water won?t touch it.  Tried dawn dish soap with Clorox and it sorta cut it but took serious scrubbing... Old men do not like scrubbing !
>> 
>> 
>> Don?t know if this is something particular to the oak tree or not but I need something that will cut it and not eat me...  suggestions ??
>> 
>> john
>> 
>> 
>> https://jniolon.classicpickup.com\\
>> 
>> 
>> https://jniolon.classicpickup.com/ 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789alpine at gmail.com
> 

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From mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org  Mon Dec  9 13:56:03 2019
From: mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org (Jimmie Mayfield)
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2019 15:56:03 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] oak mold ???
In-Reply-To: <05EA3635D8EA4EF38A2FADF38FC9EA13@Johnsdesktop>
References: <05EA3635D8EA4EF38A2FADF38FC9EA13.ref@Johnsdesktop>
 <05EA3635D8EA4EF38A2FADF38FC9EA13@Johnsdesktop>
Message-ID: <994327e5-0e6e-3cd4-c927-1be647169840@sackheads.org>

Sounds like the mold that I get on my shaded deck if I let dead leaves 
accumulate.? Pressure washer fan nozzle will get rid of it.? If you 
don't want to go that route, I've had good luck using OxyClean+water and 
a deck brush on a pole.? Depending on how bad it is, you might need to 
let the solution sit for a few minutes before scrubbing it off.



On 2019-12-09 13:36, john niolon via Shop-talk wrote:
> I keep my car hauler trailer parked under a huge oak tree most of the 
> time.? Pulled it out yesterday to use and it?s covered in ?mold? or 
> something.
> Soap and water won?t touch it.? Tried dawn dish soap with Clorox and 
> it sorta cut it but took serious scrubbing... Old men do not like 
> scrubbing !
> Don?t know if this is something particular to the oak tree or not but 
> I need something that will cut it and not eat me...? suggestions ??
> john
>
>
> https://jniolon.classicpickup.com\\
>
>
> https://jniolon.classicpickup.com/
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org
>

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From fishplate at gmail.com  Mon Dec  9 15:09:18 2019
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2019 17:09:18 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] oak mold ???
In-Reply-To: <05EA3635D8EA4EF38A2FADF38FC9EA13@Johnsdesktop>
References: <05EA3635D8EA4EF38A2FADF38FC9EA13.ref@Johnsdesktop>
 <05EA3635D8EA4EF38A2FADF38FC9EA13@Johnsdesktop>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CN_z4YJ15xfyddt4QSdzt9VyeKk+-kAjyP-28pX9rN60g@mail.gmail.com>

I can't add anything beyond what's been said, but it seems that anything
that eats the mold will also eat the protective coating.  Be prepared to
put a good coat of wax on it...  More hard work for old men...

-- Jeff

On Mon, Dec 9, 2019 at 1:37 PM john niolon via Shop-talk <
shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I keep my car hauler trailer parked under a huge oak tree most of the
> time.  Pulled it out yesterday to use and it?s covered in ?mold? or
> something.
> Soap and water won?t touch it.  Tried dawn dish soap with Clorox and it
> sorta cut it but took serious scrubbing... Old men do not like scrubbing !
>
>
> Don?t know if this is something particular to the oak tree or not but I
> need something that will cut it and not eat me...  suggestions ??
>
> john
>
>
> https://jniolon.classicpickup.com\\
>
>
> https://jniolon.classicpickup.com/
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate at gmail.com
>
>
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From bobkegel at comcast.net  Mon Dec  9 18:40:55 2019
From: bobkegel at comcast.net (Bob Kegel)
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2019 17:40:55 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] oak mold ???
In-Reply-To: <05EA3635D8EA4EF38A2FADF38FC9EA13@Johnsdesktop>
References: <05EA3635D8EA4EF38A2FADF38FC9EA13.ref@Johnsdesktop>
 <05EA3635D8EA4EF38A2FADF38FC9EA13@Johnsdesktop>
Message-ID: <mailman.33.1575942058.2919.shop-talk@autox.team.net>

I?ve had good results with Wet & Forget Outdoor cleaner.  It  kills mold and algae, and breaks their hold on the substrate so they wash off in the rain.  It is not quick. Expect results in 30-60 days.


Bob K




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From 1789alpine at gmail.com  Sun Dec 22 07:26:14 2019
From: 1789alpine at gmail.com (Jim Stone)
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 09:26:14 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Making a door thinner
Message-ID: <FFC7826C-369E-4202-9D3F-885E13A17CED@gmail.com>

I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have come up with a problem I would like the group?s help with.  I need to put up a pair of 8? x 30" barn doors, one of which will slide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet.  So, not exactly a pocket door, but it needs to fit into a pocket.  When we designed/installed the kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 3/8? - 1 1/2? door, which I planned to make out of tongue and groove boards or possibly shiplap.  However, my wife has lately decided that she doesn?t like the look of the board door and wants to try something different.  I wanted to install something temporary while she shops and decides and we went to Habitat for Humanity?s ReStore yesterday to see if they had anything that would cheaply do the trick, at least for the holidays.  To our surprise, they had a pair of new, really nice, 8x30 shaker style doors for $50 each that would look really good in the house.  They are solid wood, I think poplar, and the only problem is that they are 1 3/4? thick.  I bought them anyway, figuring I could always donate them back if there wasn?t a good way to make them work. 

There is a possibility that I might be able to make the doors work by tweaking the barn door hardware, as the opening is about 1 5/8?.  I will try that, but doubt the wall tolerances are that precise.  It it doesn?t work, my only option - besides re-donating the doors - is to try to narrow the doors a bit.  This should be possible, since the stiles and rails are 4? and 8?, respectively, so I am not talking about narrowing the entire width of the door.  
(For what it is worth, I should add here that while the doors are currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the match the cabinets and door opening and will be cutting them down to about 84? x 29?.  

I currently have a good bench top planer that I can?t see anyway to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that might work.  But, of course, I would be happy to buy a new one or another tool that would do the job.  We are probably looking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8? doors that make my wife happy, so there is lots of room in the budget for a new tool.  So, what does the group think?  Can I safely take about 1/8? off each face of these doors.  Is an electric hand planer my best option, or is there another way?  They will be painted in the end, so I can fill in any random gouges, but they do have to be smooth and even.

As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to all!

Jim
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From arvidj999 at gmail.com  Sun Dec 22 07:42:36 2019
From: arvidj999 at gmail.com (Arvid)
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 08:42:36 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Making a door thinner
In-Reply-To: <FFC7826C-369E-4202-9D3F-885E13A17CED@gmail.com>
References: <FFC7826C-369E-4202-9D3F-885E13A17CED@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7365a315-2125-3b85-c03d-ca0e07ce5d10@gmail.com>

Maybe a drum sander like this ... https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-18-1-1-2-HP-Open-End-Drum-Sander-w-VS-Feed/G0458Z ... and appropriate infeed, side and outfeed tables to support the door as you do each edge.

On 12/22/19 8:26 AM, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote:
> I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have come up with a problem I would like the group?s help with. ?I need to put up a pair of 8? x 30" barn doors, one of which will slide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet. ?So, not exactly a pocket door, but it needs to fit into a pocket. ?When we designed/installed the kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 3/8? - 1 1/2? door, which I planned to make out of tongue and groove boards or possibly shiplap. ?However, my wife has lately decided that she doesn?t like the look of the board door and wants to try something different. ?I wanted to install something temporary while she shops and decides and we went to Habitat for Humanity?s ReStore yesterday to see if they had anything that would cheaply do the trick, at least for the holidays. ?To our surprise, they had a pair of new, really nice, 8x30 shaker style doors for $50 each that would look really good in the house. ?They are solid wood, I think poplar, 
> and the only problem is that they are 1 3/4? thick. ?I bought them anyway, figuring I could always donate them back if there wasn?t a good way to make them work.
>
> There is a possibility that I might be able to make the doors work by tweaking the barn door hardware, as the opening is about 1 5/8?. ?I will try that, but doubt the wall tolerances are that precise. ?It it doesn?t work, my only option - besides re-donating the doors - is to try to narrow the doors a bit. ?This /should/ be possible, since the stiles and rails are 4? and 8?, respectively, so I am not talking about narrowing the entire width of the door.
> (For what it is worth, I should add here that while the doors are currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the match the cabinets and door opening and will be cutting them down to about 84? x 29?.
>
> I currently have a good bench top planer that I can?t see anyway to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that might work. ?But, of course, I would be happy to buy a new one or another tool that would do the job. ?We are probably looking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8? doors that make my wife happy, so there is lots of room in the budget for a new tool. ?So, what does the group think? ?Can I safely take about 1/8? off each face of these doors. ?Is an electric hand planer my best option, or is there another way? ?They will be painted in the end, so I can fill in any random gouges, but they do have to be smooth and even.
>
> As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to all!
>
> Jim
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/arvidj999 at gmail.com
>
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From patintexas at icloud.com  Sun Dec 22 07:46:29 2019
From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 08:46:29 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Making a door thinner
In-Reply-To: <FFC7826C-369E-4202-9D3F-885E13A17CED@gmail.com>
References: <FFC7826C-369E-4202-9D3F-885E13A17CED@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4CFAF524-A27C-47FA-9B58-2D2FB87D06A2@icloud.com>

Planing the back side of the door is one possibility as is modifying the cabinet. I?d look @ modifying the wall. If it is drywall, you should be able to gain 1/2? just by removing the drywall. Then plane down, saw or replace the studs from the floor up to the track, then replace the drywall. Since the drywall is mainly hidden by door & cabinet, & doesn?t have anything hanging on it. I?d consider 1/4 drywall or Masonite. Only problem is how to make the other door & it?s wall look right. 

Please let us know how it turns out. 

I love finding stuff @ the restore!

Pat Horne 
We support Habitat for Humanity


> On Dec 22, 2019, at 8:27 AM, Jim Stone via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 

?
I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have come up with a problem I would like the group?s help with.  I need to put up a pair of 8? x 30" barn doors, one of which will slide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet.  So, not exactly a pocket door, but it needs to fit into a pocket.  When we designed/installed the kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 3/8? - 1 1/2? door, which I planned to make out of tongue and groove boards or possibly shiplap.  However, my wife has lately decided that she doesn?t like the look of the board door and wants to try something different.  I wanted to install something temporary while she shops and decides and we went to Habitat for Humanity?s ReStore yesterday to see if they had anything that would cheaply do the trick, at least for the holidays.  To our surprise, they had a pair of new, really nice, 8x30 shaker style doors for $50 each that would look really good in the house.  They are solid wood, I think poplar, and the only problem is that they are 1 3/4? thick.  I bought them anyway, figuring I could always donate them back if there wasn?t a good way to make them work. 

There is a possibility that I might be able to make the doors work by tweaking the barn door hardware, as the opening is about 1 5/8?.  I will try that, but doubt the wall tolerances are that precise.  It it doesn?t work, my only option - besides re-donating the doors - is to try to narrow the doors a bit.  This should be possible, since the stiles and rails are 4? and 8?, respectively, so I am not talking about narrowing the entire width of the door.  
(For what it is worth, I should add here that while the doors are currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the match the cabinets and door opening and will be cutting them down to about 84? x 29?.  

I currently have a good bench top planer that I can?t see anyway to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that might work.  But, of course, I would be happy to buy a new one or another tool that would do the job.  We are probably looking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8? doors that make my wife happy, so there is lots of room in the budget for a new tool.  So, what does the group think?  Can I safely take about 1/8? off each face of these doors.  Is an electric hand planer my best option, or is there another way?  They will be painted in the end, so I can fill in any random gouges, but they do have to be smooth and even.

As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to all!

Jim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com

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From jamesf at groupwbench.org  Sun Dec 22 07:57:48 2019
From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin)
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 09:57:48 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Making a door thinner
In-Reply-To: <FFC7826C-369E-4202-9D3F-885E13A17CED@gmail.com>
References: <FFC7826C-369E-4202-9D3F-885E13A17CED@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6F0C6F00-9E43-4B6C-97F8-D1A7EF340915@groupwbench.org>

I took a cabinetmaking class at a state university and they had a giant belt sander that was set up like a planer. Maybe ask around the local colleges/votechs?

I would not attenpt it with a hand planer, I think that's too inaccurate a tool for surfaces wider than the planer.

jim

> On Dec 22, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Jim Stone via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have come up with a problem I would like the group?s help with.  I need to put up a pair of 8? x 30" barn doors, one of which will slide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet.  So, not exactly a pocket door, but it needs to fit into a pocket.  When we designed/installed the kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 3/8? - 1 1/2? door, which I planned to make out of tongue and groove boards or possibly shiplap.  However, my wife has lately decided that she doesn?t like the look of the board door and wants to try something different.  I wanted to install something temporary while she shops and decides and we went to Habitat for Humanity?s ReStore yesterday to see if they had anything that would cheaply do the trick, at least for the holidays.  To our surprise, they had a pair of new, really nice, 8x30 shaker style doors for $50 each that would look really good in the house.  They are solid wood, I think poplar, and the only problem is that they are 1 3/4? thick.  I bought them anyway, figuring I could always donate them back if there wasn?t a good way to make them work. 
> 
> There is a possibility that I might be able to make the doors work by tweaking the barn door hardware, as the opening is about 1 5/8?.  I will try that, but doubt the wall tolerances are that precise.  It it doesn?t work, my only option - besides re-donating the doors - is to try to narrow the doors a bit.  This should be possible, since the stiles and rails are 4? and 8?, respectively, so I am not talking about narrowing the entire width of the door.  
> (For what it is worth, I should add here that while the doors are currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the match the cabinets and door opening and will be cutting them down to about 84? x 29?.  
> 
> I currently have a good bench top planer that I can?t see anyway to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that might work.  But, of course, I would be happy to buy a new one or another tool that would do the job.  We are probably looking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8? doors that make my wife happy, so there is lots of room in the budget for a new tool.  So, what does the group think?  Can I safely take about 1/8? off each face of these doors.  Is an electric hand planer my best option, or is there another way?  They will be painted in the end, so I can fill in any random gouges, but they do have to be smooth and even.
> 
> As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to all!
> 
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org
> 

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From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Sun Dec 22 08:07:22 2019
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell)
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 10:07:22 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Making a door thinner
In-Reply-To: <7365a315-2125-3b85-c03d-ca0e07ce5d10@gmail.com>
References: <FFC7826C-369E-4202-9D3F-885E13A17CED@gmail.com>
 <7365a315-2125-3b85-c03d-ca0e07ce5d10@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <c826a68b-c57a-1226-153e-a45ba545811a@mebtel.net>

Nothing against obtaining more tools but you might also look for a door 
making shop. They would likely have an industrial size wide belt sander. 
I've brought them wide glue ups for tables and they did not charge me an 
outrageous amount to run them through the machine.

http://www.hermance.com/Industrial/Wide-Belt-Sanders

Or, along the lines of tool acquisition, a jig to hold a router would 
allow you mill off an fairly exact amount of material. I made one out of 
aluminum channel & angle. Woodpecker Tools sells one (at a a hefty 
price...).

https://www.woodpeck.com/woodpeckers-slab-flattening-mill.html

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

On 12/22/2019 9:42 AM, Arvid via Shop-talk wrote:
>
> Maybe a drum sander like this ... 
> https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-18-1-1-2-HP-Open-End-Drum-Sander-w-VS-Feed/G0458Z 
> ... and appropriate infeed, side and outfeed tables to support the 
> door as you do each edge.
>
> On 12/22/19 8:26 AM, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote:
>> I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have 
>> come up with a problem I would like the group?s help with. ?I need to 
>> put up a pair of 8? x 30" barn doors, one of which will slide in next 
>> to a tall kitchen cabinet. ?So, not exactly a pocket door, but it 
>> needs to fit into a pocket.
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From jdinnis at gmail.com  Sun Dec 22 08:21:06 2019
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 09:21:06 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Making a door thinner
In-Reply-To: <c826a68b-c57a-1226-153e-a45ba545811a@mebtel.net>
References: <FFC7826C-369E-4202-9D3F-885E13A17CED@gmail.com>
 <7365a315-2125-3b85-c03d-ca0e07ce5d10@gmail.com>
 <c826a68b-c57a-1226-153e-a45ba545811a@mebtel.net>
Message-ID: <CANuE7YCUpOw6zBOw2jEToSse_nJBOQ6L4n+FA6+6r45CdfYneg@mail.gmail.com>

This is the direction I was thinking.  There is a CNC router kit from a
outfit called Maslow that will do 4x8 sheets of plywood.  Something like
this should be adaptable to meet your needs.
https://www.maslowcnc.com/

On Sun, Dec 22, 2019 at 9:08 AM Eric Russell via Shop-talk <
shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Nothing against obtaining more tools but you might also look for a door
> making shop. They would likely have an industrial size wide belt sander.
> I've brought them wide glue ups for tables and they did not charge me an
> outrageous amount to run them through the machine.
>
> http://www.hermance.com/Industrial/Wide-Belt-Sanders
>
> Or, along the lines of tool acquisition, a jig to hold a router would
> allow you mill off an fairly exact amount of material. I made one out of
> aluminum channel & angle. Woodpecker Tools sells one (at a a hefty
> price...).
>
> https://www.woodpeck.com/woodpeckers-slab-flattening-mill.html
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
>
> On 12/22/2019 9:42 AM, Arvid via Shop-talk wrote:
>
> Maybe a drum sander like this ...
> https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-18-1-1-2-HP-Open-End-Drum-Sander-w-VS-Feed/G0458Z
> ... and appropriate infeed, side and outfeed tables to support the door as
> you do each edge.
> On 12/22/19 8:26 AM, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote:
>
> I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have come
> up with a problem I would like the group?s help with.  I need to put up a
> pair of 8? x 30" barn doors, one of which will slide in next to a tall
> kitchen cabinet.  So, not exactly a pocket door, but it needs to fit into a
> pocket.
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================
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From mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org  Sun Dec 22 08:36:00 2019
From: mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org (Jimmie Mayfield)
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 10:36:00 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Making a door thinner
In-Reply-To: <FFC7826C-369E-4202-9D3F-885E13A17CED@gmail.com>
References: <FFC7826C-369E-4202-9D3F-885E13A17CED@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <e324b134-2837-148f-fd0d-929dc36ab142@sackheads.org>

Contact a local cabinet shop and ask them how much they'd charge to run 
your door through their wide-belt sander a few times to take it down to 
1 3/8".? Shouldn't take long at all.? They might balk if these doors are 
already painted/finished (it might gum up their sanding belt) so you 
might need to strip the finish before you drop the doors off? but 
contact them and see what they prefer.



From patintexas at icloud.com  Sun Dec 22 08:38:45 2019
From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 09:38:45 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Making a door thinner
In-Reply-To: <e324b134-2837-148f-fd0d-929dc36ab142@sackheads.org>
References: <e324b134-2837-148f-fd0d-929dc36ab142@sackheads.org>
Message-ID: <7A4D66BE-82ED-40AC-93A9-F9ACF7095492@icloud.com>

Probably should check for metal fasteners too

Pat Horne 
We support Habitat for Humanity


> On Dec 22, 2019, at 9:36 AM, Jimmie Mayfield via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 

?Contact a local cabinet shop and ask them how much they'd charge to run your door through their wide-belt sander a few times to take it down to 1 3/8".  Shouldn't take long at all.  They might balk if these doors are already painted/finished (it might gum up their sanding belt) so you might need to strip the finish before you drop the doors off  but contact them and see what they prefer.


_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

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From 1789alpine at gmail.com  Sun Dec 22 10:58:58 2019
From: 1789alpine at gmail.com (Jim Stone)
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 12:58:58 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Making a door thinner
In-Reply-To: <FFC7826C-369E-4202-9D3F-885E13A17CED@gmail.com>
References: <FFC7826C-369E-4202-9D3F-885E13A17CED@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <823F2A66-3D0D-4EC3-98DB-6E189D134F62@gmail.com>

Thanks, guys!  While I was hoping the planer was a viable option, I didn?t really expect it to work, so I appreciate being talked out of it before I screwed anything up.  Some additional comments on the recommendations:

I like the Grizzly open belt sander!  However, it would cost about as much as just buying custom doors, so I will probably pass on that, unless I get lucky and find a used one.  I?ll look around, just to be safe.
Same thing for the router jig.  I had considered using a router, but didn?t know how I?d get the cut even.  One of those jigs would certainly do the trick, but probably be cost prohibitive.  Still, I?ll research it a bit more.
Unfortunately, modifying the wall isn?t an option.  The door in the pocket is one of a pair and the total wall is about 24 ft long (and 18? high), so we?d be remodeling the entire house again at that point!
Modifying the cabinets isn?t an option either, although moving them a bit is possible.  Still, this is a wall of cabinets and there is an oven hood in the mix that would also need to move, so the total effort would be more work than anything I could run into with the doors.
On idea I considered after sending my note this morning was something based on floor sanding equipment.  e.g. Screw steel stock to the sides of the door with a 1/8? reveal, rig something around the center to give myself a stop on the other side, and then use a large rotary sander.  I think it might work, but like some of the other ideas, probably be more trouble than the project is worth.  Still, I am throwing it out in case it gives anyone another idea.

So, that brings me back to the most frequent suggestion: find a cabinet maker.  I casually know a couple, but didn?t think they?d have something wide enough.  I assumed they did all of their milling to the base stock, before assembly and wouldn?t have the need to thin something this wide.  Knowing the tools exist and are frequently used gives me hope for that option, which I will pursue, if necessary.  First, I am going to try to get lucky and make them work without modification.  It is theoretically possible to mill down the ?stands? for the track and make it all work.  I have an extra set of stands, thanks to a previous mistake custom fitting the barn door track, so I have nothing to lose.  If I get lucky (I?m putting my odds at no better than 1:10), it will all fit perfectly and I?ll be done.  If not, I?ll reach out to the cabinet makers and see if they can help me.  Worst case is that the doors go back to ReStore and I try something different.

Thanks again.  I?ll report back when there is a final resolution to the issue.  

Jim

> On Dec 22, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Jim Stone <1789alpine at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have come up with a problem I would like the group?s help with.  I need to put up a pair of 8? x 30" barn doors, one of which will slide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet.  So, not exactly a pocket door, but it needs to fit into a pocket.  When we designed/installed the kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 3/8? - 1 1/2? door, which I planned to make out of tongue and groove boards or possibly shiplap.  However, my wife has lately decided that she doesn?t like the look of the board door and wants to try something different.  I wanted to install something temporary while she shops and decides and we went to Habitat for Humanity?s ReStore yesterday to see if they had anything that would cheaply do the trick, at least for the holidays.  To our surprise, they had a pair of new, really nice, 8x30 shaker style doors for $50 each that would look really good in the house.  They are solid wood, I think poplar, and the only problem is that they are 1 3/4? thick.  I bought them anyway, figuring I could always donate them back if there wasn?t a good way to make them work. 
> 
> There is a possibility that I might be able to make the doors work by tweaking the barn door hardware, as the opening is about 1 5/8?.  I will try that, but doubt the wall tolerances are that precise.  It it doesn?t work, my only option - besides re-donating the doors - is to try to narrow the doors a bit.  This should be possible, since the stiles and rails are 4? and 8?, respectively, so I am not talking about narrowing the entire width of the door.  
> (For what it is worth, I should add here that while the doors are currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the match the cabinets and door opening and will be cutting them down to about 84? x 29?.  
> 
> I currently have a good bench top planer that I can?t see anyway to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that might work.  But, of course, I would be happy to buy a new one or another tool that would do the job.  We are probably looking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8? doors that make my wife happy, so there is lots of room in the budget for a new tool.  So, what does the group think?  Can I safely take about 1/8? off each face of these doors.  Is an electric hand planer my best option, or is there another way?  They will be painted in the end, so I can fill in any random gouges, but they do have to be smooth and even.
> 
> As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to all!
> 
> Jim

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From markmiller at threeboysfarm.com  Sun Dec 22 11:03:35 2019
From: markmiller at threeboysfarm.com (Mark Miller)
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 10:03:35 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Making a door thinner
In-Reply-To: <mailman.738.1577025994.2827.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.738.1577025994.2827.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <84324ce2-9d22-4099-13c9-712a51f5a5c5@threeboysfarm.com>

You might consider using a router to take off the 1/8" off an inch or so 
on the inside (panel) side of the rails (fairly easy to do using the 
rest of the rail as a base to run on) and then running the door 
vertically over a table saw to thin the rest of the rails.

Alternately: can you take a bit off the back of the cabinet? Either in 
place with an oscillating saw where needed or pull the cabinet, modify, 
then replace? Or just slide the cabinet out from the wall a bit more 
than it is?

Regards,

Mark Miller   707-490-5834
markmiller at threeboysfarm.com

> Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 09:26:14 -0500
> From: Jim Stone <1789alpine at gmail.com>
> To: Shop Talk <shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net>
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Making a door thinner
> Message-ID: <FFC7826C-369E-4202-9D3F-885E13A17CED at gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have come up with a problem I would like the group?s help with.  I need to put up a pair of 8? x 30" barn doors, one of which will slide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet.  So, not exactly a pocket door, but it needs to fit into a pocket.  When we designed/installed the kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 3/8? - 1 1/2? door, which I planned to make out of tongue and groove boards or possibly shiplap.  However, my wife has lately decided that she doesn?t like the look of the board door and wants to try something different.  I wanted to install something temporary while she shops and decides and we went to Habitat for Humanity?s ReStore yesterday to see if they had anything that would cheaply do the trick, at least for the holidays.  To our surprise, they had a pair of new, really nice, 8x30 shaker style doors for $50 each that would look really good in the house.  They are solid wood, I think poplar, and the o
>   nly problem is that they are 1 3/4? thick.  I bought them anyway, figuring I could always donate them back if there wasn?t a good way to make them work.
>
> There is a possibility that I might be able to make the doors work by tweaking the barn door hardware, as the opening is about 1 5/8?.  I will try that, but doubt the wall tolerances are that precise.  It it doesn?t work, my only option - besides re-donating the doors - is to try to narrow the doors a bit.  This should be possible, since the stiles and rails are 4? and 8?, respectively, so I am not talking about narrowing the entire width of the door.
> (For what it is worth, I should add here that while the doors are currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the match the cabinets and door opening and will be cutting them down to about 84? x 29?.
>
> I currently have a good bench top planer that I can?t see anyway to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that might work.  But, of course, I would be happy to buy a new one or another tool that would do the job.  We are probably looking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8? doors that make my wife happy, so there is lots of room in the budget for a new tool.  So, what does the group think?  Can I safely take about 1/8? off each face of these doors.  Is an electric hand planer my best option, or is there another way?  They will be painted in the end, so I can fill in any random gouges, but they do have to be smooth and even.
>
> As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to all!
>
> Jim
>


From miq at bigllama.com  Sun Dec 22 11:08:59 2019
From: miq at bigllama.com (Miq Millman)
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 10:08:59 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Making a door thinner
In-Reply-To: <FFC7826C-369E-4202-9D3F-885E13A17CED@gmail.com>
References: <FFC7826C-369E-4202-9D3F-885E13A17CED@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CALUbS3E6Z1bQErv0sihka3z5gL_at6ghfoqfq38GwKPQEP4H=w@mail.gmail.com>

I just did something similar:  had a door that was too wide, so I used a
router to make the hinge pockets 1/4" deeper then ran the door through my
table saw and sliced a bit less than 3/16" of the hinge side and about
1/16" off the latch side.

I think you can do something similar.  Look up "router jig to flatten wood"
and make a sled that is roughly 31" long and as wide as your (possibly new)
router base.  Woodworkers use this kind of rig for flattening live edge
slabs and the like.

Here's a good video that explains it and shows how to make it using some
plywood and simple rails:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0SDvKHcL5M

Basically, you get a nice wide straight bit and set the jig on the door,
then make passes cutting off 1/8" or less at a time.  Make a pass, move the
jig less than the diameter of the bit, make another pass, etc.

You might not even need to finish the final surface with a plane, but
here's a chance to get a nice jack plane, like the Stanley No. 62  (Orange
big box has them for ~$100).

I've done this, for end grain cutting boards, where I used a 1x2" aluminum
rectangle tube for the rails,

--
__
Miq Millman   miq at bigllama.com
Tualatin, OR  Big Llama Productions


On Sun, Dec 22, 2019 at 6:26 AM Jim Stone via Shop-talk <
shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have come
> up with a problem I would like the group?s help with.  I need to put up a
> pair of 8? x 30" barn doors, one of which will slide in next to a tall
> kitchen cabinet.  So, not exactly a pocket door, but it needs to fit into a
> pocket.  When we designed/installed the kitchen cabinets we planned the
> cabinets for a 1 3/8? - 1 1/2? door, which I planned to make out of tongue
> and groove boards or possibly shiplap.  However, my wife has lately decided
> that she doesn?t like the look of the board door and wants to try something
> different.  I wanted to install something temporary while she shops and
> decides and we went to Habitat for Humanity?s ReStore yesterday to see if
> they had anything that would cheaply do the trick, at least for the
> holidays.  To our surprise, they had a pair of new, really nice, 8x30
> shaker style doors for $50 each that would look really good in the house.
> They are solid wood, I think poplar, and the only problem is that they are
> 1 3/4? thick.  I bought them anyway, figuring I could always donate them
> back if there wasn?t a good way to make them work.
>
> There is a possibility that I might be able to make the doors work by
> tweaking the barn door hardware, as the opening is about 1 5/8?.  I will
> try that, but doubt the wall tolerances are that precise.  It it doesn?t
> work, my only option - besides re-donating the doors - is to try to narrow
> the doors a bit.  This *should* be possible, since the stiles and rails
> are 4? and 8?, respectively, so I am not talking about narrowing the entire
> width of the door.
> (For what it is worth, I should add here that while the doors are
> currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the match the cabinets
> and door opening and will be cutting them down to about 84? x 29?.
>
> I currently have a good bench top planer that I can?t see anyway to use,
> and a cheap HF hand planer that might work.  But, of course, I would be
> happy to buy a new one or another tool that would do the job.  We are
> probably looking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8? doors that make my
> wife happy, so there is lots of room in the budget for a new tool.  So,
> what does the group think?  Can I safely take about 1/8? off each face of
> these doors.  Is an electric hand planer my best option, or is there
> another way?  They will be painted in the end, so I can fill in any random
> gouges, but they do have to be smooth and even.
>
> As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to all!
>
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/miq at bigllama.com
>
>
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From bk13 at earthlink.net  Sun Dec 22 13:05:03 2019
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 12:05:03 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Making a door thinner
In-Reply-To: <CALUbS3E6Z1bQErv0sihka3z5gL_at6ghfoqfq38GwKPQEP4H=w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <FFC7826C-369E-4202-9D3F-885E13A17CED@gmail.com>
 <CALUbS3E6Z1bQErv0sihka3z5gL_at6ghfoqfq38GwKPQEP4H=w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <cc74b444-47c9-4015-d592-06b2f0fced0f@earthlink.net>

I second the router guide shown in the video if you don't have a local 
shop with a door sized industrial sander.

Brian

On 12/22/2019 10:08 AM, Miq Millman via Shop-talk wrote:
> I just did something similar:? had a door that was too wide, so I used 
> a router to make the hinge pockets 1/4" deeper then ran the door 
> through my table saw and sliced a bit less than 3/16" of the hinge 
> side and about 1/16" off the latch side.
>
> I think you can do something similar.? Look up "router jig to flatten 
> wood" and make a sled that is roughly 31" long and as wide as your 
> (possibly new) router base.? Woodworkers use this kind of rig for 
> flattening live edge slabs and the like.
>
> Here's a good video that explains it and shows how to make it using 
> some plywood and simple rails: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0SDvKHcL5M
>
> Basically, you get a nice wide straight bit and set the jig on the 
> door, then make passes cutting off 1/8" or less at a time.? Make a 
> pass, move the jig less than the diameter of the bit, make another 
> pass, etc.
>
> You might not even need to finish the final surface with a plane, but 
> here's a chance to get a nice jack plane, like the Stanley No. 62? 
> (Orange big box has them for ~$100).
>
> I've done this, for end grain cutting boards, where I used a 1x2" 
> aluminum rectangle tube for the rails,
>
> --
> __
> Miq Millman miq at bigllama.com <mailto:miq at bigllama.com>
> Tualatin, OR? Big Llama Productions
>
>
> On Sun, Dec 22, 2019 at 6:26 AM Jim Stone via Shop-talk 
> <shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:shop-talk at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and
>     have come up with a problem I would like the group?s help with.? I
>     need to put up a pair of 8? x 30" barn doors, one of which will
>     slide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet.? So, not exactly a pocket
>     door, but it needs to fit into a pocket.? When we
>     designed/installed the kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets
>     for a 1 3/8? - 1 1/2? door, which I planned to make out of tongue
>     and groove boards or possibly shiplap.? However, my wife has
>     lately decided that she doesn?t like the look of the board door
>     and wants to try something different.? I wanted to install
>     something temporary while she shops and decides and we went to
>     Habitat for Humanity?s ReStore yesterday to see if they had
>     anything that would cheaply do the trick, at least for the
>     holidays.? To our surprise, they had a pair of new, really nice,
>     8x30 shaker style doors for $50 each that would look really good
>     in the house.? They are solid wood, I think poplar, and the only
>     problem is that they are 1 3/4? thick.? I bought them anyway,
>     figuring I could always donate them back if there wasn?t a good
>     way to make them work.
>
>     There is a possibility that I might be able to make the doors work
>     by tweaking the barn door hardware, as the opening is about 1
>     5/8?.? I will try that, but doubt the wall tolerances are that
>     precise.? It it doesn?t work, my only option - besides re-donating
>     the doors - is to try to narrow the doors a bit.? This /should/ be
>     possible, since the stiles and rails are 4? and 8?, respectively,
>     so I am not talking about narrowing the entire width of the door.
>     (For what it is worth, I should add here that while the doors are
>     currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the match the
>     cabinets and door opening and will be cutting them down to about
>     84? x 29?.
>
>     I currently have a good bench top planer that I can?t see anyway
>     to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that might work.? But, of
>     course, I would be happy to buy a new one or another tool that
>     would do the job.? We are probably looking at more than $1000 for
>     a pair of 8? doors that make my wife happy, so there is lots of
>     room in the budget for a new tool.? So, what does the group
>     think?? Can I safely take about 1/8? off each face of these
>     doors.? Is an electric hand planer my best option, or is there
>     another way?? They will be painted in the end, so I can fill in
>     any random gouges, but they do have to be smooth and even.
>
>     As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to all!
>
>     Jim
>     _______________________________________________
>
>     Shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.96
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/miq at bigllama.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk  http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net
>

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From 1789alpine at gmail.com  Sun Dec 22 16:41:42 2019
From: 1789alpine at gmail.com (Jim Stone)
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 18:41:42 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Making a door thinner
In-Reply-To: <cc74b444-47c9-4015-d592-06b2f0fced0f@earthlink.net>
References: <FFC7826C-369E-4202-9D3F-885E13A17CED@gmail.com>
 <CALUbS3E6Z1bQErv0sihka3z5gL_at6ghfoqfq38GwKPQEP4H=w@mail.gmail.com>
 <cc74b444-47c9-4015-d592-06b2f0fced0f@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <65458129-CC2B-4FF2-97BB-13FD7B4449DC@gmail.com>

Thanks guys.  The sled looks pretty easy to make and would certainly do the trick.  One other suggestion gave me another idea, which would be to use my bench planer to ?mill? a piece of wood to perfectly fill the gap between the stile and the panel, in effect giving me a larger flat surface.  I would think I could then use a router with a surfacing bit and work from the outside in, removing a bit of material as I go.  The spacer would give me a flat, even surface all the way to the inside.  I would think that would work fine, without the need to build a sled.

However, it may all be academic now.  I studied the doors more carefully a few hours ago and realized that they are not solid wood, but MDF with about an 1/8? veneer on the front and an inch or so of poplar on the sides.  No wonder they are so heavy.  The MDF and the poplar are about the same color and I was looking at the lock hole, where the hole saw marks gave the appearance of grain.  Probably wishful thinking on my part.   I might be able to take a tiny bit off of each - and it is possible a tiny bit might be enough - but imagine that cutting all the way though the veneer won?t leave me with an acceptable surface for paint.  I might be wrong on that, but hopefully I will be successful modifying the track and be able to make it work that way.  I?ll measure extra carefully!  I won?t have access to a milling machine until after the holidays, so this project will have to stay dormant for a week or so.  Plenty to keep me busy in the meantime!

Jim

> On Dec 22, 2019, at 3:05 PM, Brian Kemp <bk13 at earthlink.net> wrote:
> 
> I second the router guide shown in the video if you don't have a local shop with a door sized industrial sander.
> 
> Brian
> 
> On 12/22/2019 10:08 AM, Miq Millman via Shop-talk wrote:
>> I just did something similar:  had a door that was too wide, so I used a router to make the hinge pockets 1/4" deeper then ran the door through my table saw and sliced a bit less than 3/16" of the hinge side and about 1/16" off the latch side.
>> 
>> I think you can do something similar.  Look up "router jig to flatten wood" and make a sled that is roughly 31" long and as wide as your (possibly new) router base.  Woodworkers use this kind of rig for flattening live edge slabs and the like.
>> 
>> Here's a good video that explains it and shows how to make it using some plywood and simple rails:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0SDvKHcL5M <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0SDvKHcL5M>
>> 
>> Basically, you get a nice wide straight bit and set the jig on the door, then make passes cutting off 1/8" or less at a time.  Make a pass, move the jig less than the diameter of the bit, make another pass, etc.
>> 
>> You might not even need to finish the final surface with a plane, but here's a chance to get a nice jack plane, like the Stanley No. 62  (Orange big box has them for ~$100).
>> 
>> I've done this, for end grain cutting boards, where I used a 1x2" aluminum rectangle tube for the rails,
>> 
>> --
>> __
>> Miq Millman   miq at bigllama.com <mailto:miq at bigllama.com>
>> Tualatin, OR  Big Llama Productions
>> 
>> 
>> On Sun, Dec 22, 2019 at 6:26 AM Jim Stone via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:shop-talk at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>> I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have come up with a problem I would like the group?s help with.  I need to put up a pair of 8? x 30" barn doors, one of which will slide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet.  So, not exactly a pocket door, but it needs to fit into a pocket.  When we designed/installed the kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 3/8? - 1 1/2? door, which I planned to make out of tongue and groove boards or possibly shiplap.  However, my wife has lately decided that she doesn?t like the look of the board door and wants to try something different.  I wanted to install something temporary while she shops and decides and we went to Habitat for Humanity?s ReStore yesterday to see if they had anything that would cheaply do the trick, at least for the holidays.  To our surprise, they had a pair of new, really nice, 8x30 shaker style doors for $50 each that would look really good in the house.  They are solid wood, I think poplar, and the only problem is that they are 1 3/4? thick.  I bought them anyway, figuring I could always donate them back if there wasn?t a good way to make them work. 
>> 
>> There is a possibility that I might be able to make the doors work by tweaking the barn door hardware, as the opening is about 1 5/8?.  I will try that, but doubt the wall tolerances are that precise.  It it doesn?t work, my only option - besides re-donating the doors - is to try to narrow the doors a bit.  This should be possible, since the stiles and rails are 4? and 8?, respectively, so I am not talking about narrowing the entire width of the door.  
>> (For what it is worth, I should add here that while the doors are currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the match the cabinets and door opening and will be cutting them down to about 84? x 29?.  
>> 
>> I currently have a good bench top planer that I can?t see anyway to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that might work.  But, of course, I would be happy to buy a new one or another tool that would do the job.  We are probably looking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8? doors that make my wife happy, so there is lots of room in the budget for a new tool.  So, what does the group think?  Can I safely take about 1/8? off each face of these doors.  Is an electric hand planer my best option, or is there another way?  They will be painted in the end, so I can fill in any random gouges, but they do have to be smooth and even.
>> 
>> As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to all!
>> 
>> Jim
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk <http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>> 
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>> 
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:Shop-talk at autox.team.net>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk <http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net>
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> 

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From patintexas at icloud.com  Sun Dec 22 08:08:00 2019
From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne)
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 09:08:00 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] Making a door thinner
In-Reply-To: <6F0C6F00-9E43-4B6C-97F8-D1A7EF340915@groupwbench.org>
References: <6F0C6F00-9E43-4B6C-97F8-D1A7EF340915@groupwbench.org>
Message-ID: <59882DD6-D367-4820-A634-D1371FBBFF12@icloud.com>

Most large cabinet shops have wide belt sanders. The biggest problem I see in using one is that you would be sanding across the grain on the rails. The grit on those sanders is usually 120 at best so you will probably have a lot of handwork to do. Good idea though. 

As to using a belt sander, there are framed available that bolt to the sander that make it much better for this kind of work. I?ve seen some about 2? square. 

I needed to flatten a 60? wide cypress stump slab & just used a belt sander & straight edge to find what needed taking down. Took awhile but did the job. 

Pat Horne 
We support Habitat for Humanity


> On Dec 22, 2019, at 8:58 AM, Jim Franklin via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 

?I took a cabinetmaking class at a state university and they had a giant belt sander that was set up like a planer. Maybe ask around the local colleges/votechs?

I would not attenpt it with a hand planer, I think that's too inaccurate a tool for surfaces wider than the planer.

jim

> On Dec 22, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Jim Stone via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have come up with a problem I would like the group?s help with.  I need to put up a pair of 8? x 30" barn doors, one of which will slide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet.  So, not exactly a pocket door, but it needs to fit into a pocket.  When we designed/installed the kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 3/8? - 1 1/2? door, which I planned to make out of tongue and groove boards or possibly shiplap.  However, my wife has lately decided that she doesn?t like the look of the board door and wants to try something different.  I wanted to install something temporary while she shops and decides and we went to Habitat for Humanity?s ReStore yesterday to see if they had anything that would cheaply do the trick, at least for the holidays.  To our surprise, they had a pair of new, really nice, 8x30 shaker style doors for $50 each that would look really good in the house.  They are solid wood, I think poplar, and the only problem is that they are 1 3/4? thick.  I bought them anyway, figuring I could always donate them back if there wasn?t a good way to make them work. 
> 
> There is a possibility that I might be able to make the doors work by tweaking the barn door hardware, as the opening is about 1 5/8?.  I will try that, but doubt the wall tolerances are that precise.  It it doesn?t work, my only option - besides re-donating the doors - is to try to narrow the doors a bit.  This should be possible, since the stiles and rails are 4? and 8?, respectively, so I am not talking about narrowing the entire width of the door.  
> (For what it is worth, I should add here that while the doors are currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the match the cabinets and door opening and will be cutting them down to about 84? x 29?.  
> 
> I currently have a good bench top planer that I can?t see anyway to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that might work.  But, of course, I would be happy to buy a new one or another tool that would do the job.  We are probably looking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8? doors that make my wife happy, so there is lots of room in the budget for a new tool.  So, what does the group think?  Can I safely take about 1/8? off each face of these doors.  Is an electric hand planer my best option, or is there another way?  They will be painted in the end, so I can fill in any random gouges, but they do have to be smooth and even.
> 
> As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to all!
> 
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf at groupwbench.org
> 

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com



From steve at leatherplates.com  Mon Dec 23 17:30:18 2019
From: steve at leatherplates.com (Steve)
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2019 16:30:18 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Looking for design engineering expertise
Message-ID: <25C3BCC0467A484085DA0535BE8EF922@DESKTOPTOA1F5G>

Here?s why I?m confused!




I?m trying to reverse engineer and then create a few copies 
of a partially complete OVERRIDING ROLLER CLUTCH (one-way)
that we have available, in-house (see photos at bottom of post) 

I need to re-create the missing spring cover sleeves and springs 
that follow the rollers.  If you?ve got any experience with 
OVERRIDING ROLLER CLUTCHES, you?ll know what I mean.




I?m hoping that there?s a simple value range that I can pick from and 
maybe even find some already available spring covers and even springs 
that can be adapted. 


If you?re interested in what this fits, it?s for a specific Gray & Davis (Boston MA) 
manufactured starter.  The original OVERRIDING ROLLER CLUTCH assembly was 
a sub-assembly for G&D and supplied by Miesel Press, a Boston machine tool 
manufacturer.  This starter was optionally available on Overland automobiles in 1914.  

Any suggestions? 

Below is the actual 6 roller version (maybe inserted in the 1950s??) in place of the 
original 3 roller version.  We?re working with the 6 roller design, as it?s interchangeable 
with an original 3 roller version.  As can be seen, we?re missing the springs and spring 
cups that follow the rollers, keeping them ready to lock the rotor to the shaft rotation.





Center rotor (w/ square drive) is 15mm thick

Max diameter of rotor is 68mm

Rollers are 15mm x 8mm dia. (or 5/16? dia.) ambiguous 

Square drive is 20 x 20mm 

Outer (containment) race machined into sprocket casting 


Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA
360-661-6060
gsteve at hammatt.com


 
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