From mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org Wed May 1 13:06:07 2013 From: mayfield+shoptalk at sackheads.org (Jimmie Mayfield) Date: Wed, 1 May 2013 15:06:07 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] I feel . . . wrong In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20130501190607.GA80220@sackheads.org> On Mon, Apr 29, 2013 at 09:03:17PM -0700, Mark Miller wrote: > Convince me I need to fix the Echo and use a real tool. Eh, use whatever gets the job done with the least amount of trouble. I have a Stihl brushcutter that I use for clearing out fence rows on my parents' farm. It's well-built and has seen a lot of use. It's also loud, heavy and when I'm done, I smell like 2-cycle exhaust. I also have a Troy-bilt electric trimmer. It doesn't leak, it's (relatively) quiet, it always starts when I pull the trigger and winterizing it consists of hanging it on a hook. Guess which one gets used if I'm anywhere near a power outlet... (Another thing that gets used a *lot* on the farm is a string trimmer on two-wheels. Uses a 6.5hp lawn mower engine and it'll go through just about anything. Things that would require me to mount a blade to the brushcutter don't faze this guy. It'll cut through reeds and corn with the engine idling. If it were less bulky, I'd probably ditch the Stihl entirely) JM From ElanS4 at cox.net Wed May 1 17:15:49 2013 From: ElanS4 at cox.net (Mullen) Date: Wed, 1 May 2013 19:15:49 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] I feel . . . wrong In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00c601ce46c1$d19e0670$74da1350$@cox.net> Mark Miller wrote: > > > Ok. So my Echo string trimmer was acting up. Seemed like a fuel problem; > it would start but not run well, stall out, and needed the throttle and > choke played with to keep it going. This is going to sound silly, but my trimmer acted like this once. When taking it apart to fix it, I took off the air filter and housing, and discovered that bolts that held the carb to the engine were a bit loose. Tightened those, put the filter back on, and everything worked just fine. Tim Mullen From ericm at lne.com Thu May 2 08:29:17 2013 From: ericm at lne.com (Eric Murray) Date: Thu, 02 May 2013 07:29:17 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] I feel . . . wrong In-Reply-To: <20130501190607.GA80220@sackheads.org> References: <20130501190607.GA80220@sackheads.org> Message-ID: <5182783D.6010906@lne.com> On 05/01/2013 12:06 PM, Jimmie Mayfield wrote: > when I'm done, I smell like 2-cycle exhaust. Get some Redline twostroke oil. I prefer their Allsport for power equipment (I also used it in my trials motorcycles). It's a low deposit synthetic oil, made for applications like outboard motors which may have to idle for a long time without fouling a plug and still handle a WFO run back to the dock for beer. It is not that expensive. But the great thing about Redline twostroke oils, besides lubricating well, is that they make the exhaust smell good. Not like unicorn farts or strawberries, but like castor based two-stroke oils. It makes weed whacking smell like the race track without the eye watering race gas. I started using in trials bikes because in trials you do a lot of low speed riding and often practice the same obstacle over and over, so you get to smell your exhaust. And when competing you sometimes wait in a line of a few bikes. The Motul I had been using made the exhaust smell nasty and other competitors complained. You'll still smell like exhaust but you won't mind so much. Eric From eric at megageek.com Thu May 2 10:06:08 2013 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 12:06:08 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Toughest EE question ever asked here. Message-ID: OK, it's a stretch to say this is shop related, but IF I can get it to work, it will be lots of 'cred' for me at work! 8>) I work at a building that requires proximity cards at just about every door. That means lots of swiping all day long. Of course everyone wears their card around their neck or on little pull chains. I put mine in my wallet. The system we have is made by http://www.amerisys.com/ Here is the question. I would love to be able to put my card in my cell phone case and just use that to swipe the readers. Problem... The phone interferes with the reader's ability to read the card. In fact, if I put a piece of aluminum foil behind the card (and my phone is no where near it), the reader can't read it. I've also tried a product like this http://www.idstronghold.com/Secure-Sleeve-for-Passports-IDSH1002-001-/productinfo/IDSH1002-001/ . But if I have that *behind* the card (meaning not between the card and reader) it still doesn't read the card. So, to the question, What can I put between my cell phone and card to make the card reader still see the card? It needs to be thin. If someone can get me the answer, I'll make a donation to autox.team.net in their name! I know there are EE's out there that can answer this. Thanks! Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson From pethier at comcast.net Thu May 2 10:44:49 2013 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 16:44:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] Toughest EE question ever asked here. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1172399706.638936.1367513089933.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Can't figure that one out. A piece of aluminum foil keeps my office key and bus pass separated just fine. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier at comcast.net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica http://www.mnautox.com http://www.mntriumphs.org ----- Original Message ----- > From: eric at megageek.com > To: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net > Sent: Thursday, May 2, 2013 11:06:08 AM > Subject: [Shop-talk] Toughest EE question ever asked here. > OK, it's a stretch to say this is shop related, but IF I can get it to > work, it will be lots of 'cred' for me at work! 8>) > > I work at a building that requires proximity cards at just about every > door. That means lots of swiping all day long. Of course everyone > wears > their card around their neck or on little pull chains. I put mine in > my > wallet. > > The system we have is made by http://www.amerisys.com/ > > Here is the question. I would love to be able to put my card in my > cell > phone case and just use that to swipe the readers. Problem... > > The phone interferes with the reader's ability to read the card. In > fact, > if I put a piece of aluminum foil behind the card (and my phone is no > where near it), the reader can't read it. > > I've also tried a product like this > http://www.idstronghold.com/Secure-Sleeve-for-Passports-IDSH1002-001-/productinfo/IDSH1002-001/ > . > > But if I have that *behind* the card (meaning not between the card and > reader) it still doesn't read the card. > > So, to the question, What can I put between my cell phone and card to > make > the card reader still see the card? It needs to be thin. > > If someone can get me the answer, I'll make a donation to > autox.team.net > in their name! > > I know there are EE's out there that can answer this. > > Thanks! > > Eric P From mjw at littlegrassy.com Thu May 2 11:27:56 2013 From: mjw at littlegrassy.com (Matt Wehland) Date: Thu, 02 May 2013 12:27:56 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Toughest EE question ever asked here. In-Reply-To: <1172399706.638936.1367513089933.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1172399706.638936.1367513089933.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <5182A21C.8040808@littlegrassy.com> I've always said that the sensors should be a little below hip level so you can just wave your butt at them, with the card in your wallet. Then you can open doors with your hands full. I've been in places where that works. It was nice. Then others that placed the sensor higher so you have to pull your wallet out all the time. The most fun I had was one time I had misplaced (left it 1000 miles away) a card, got a replacement then later ended up with both of them in my wallet. Swiping would work some times and not others, frustrated me for days until I went to HR to have my card checked out and found I had 2 of them in my wallet, one active and one not. No real solution for you here, sorry. Matt On 5/2/2013 11:44 AM, pethier at comcast.net wrote: > Can't figure that one out. A piece of aluminum foil keeps my office key and bus pass separated just fine. > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue > 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch > 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl > 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red > pethier at comcast.net > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier > http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica > http://www.mnautox.com > http://www.mntriumphs.org > > ----- Original Message ----- >> From: eric at megageek.com >> To: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net >> Sent: Thursday, May 2, 2013 11:06:08 AM >> Subject: [Shop-talk] Toughest EE question ever asked here. >> OK, it's a stretch to say this is shop related, but IF I can get it to >> work, it will be lots of 'cred' for me at work! 8>) >> >> I work at a building that requires proximity cards at just about every >> door. That means lots of swiping all day long. Of course everyone >> wears >> their card around their neck or on little pull chains. I put mine in >> my >> wallet. >> >> The system we have is made by http://www.amerisys.com/ >> >> Here is the question. I would love to be able to put my card in my >> cell >> phone case and just use that to swipe the readers. Problem... >> >> The phone interferes with the reader's ability to read the card. In >> fact, >> if I put a piece of aluminum foil behind the card (and my phone is no >> where near it), the reader can't read it. >> >> I've also tried a product like this >> http://www.idstronghold.com/Secure-Sleeve-for-Passports-IDSH1002-001-/productinfo/IDSH1002-001/ >> . >> >> But if I have that *behind* the card (meaning not between the card and >> reader) it still doesn't read the card. >> >> So, to the question, What can I put between my cell phone and card to >> make >> the card reader still see the card? It needs to be thin. >> >> If someone can get me the answer, I'll make a donation to >> autox.team.net >> in their name! >> >> I know there are EE's out there that can answer this. >> >> Thanks! >> >> Eric P > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mjw at littlegrassy.com > > -- Matt Wehland (815) 295-4533 From doug at dougbraun.com Thu May 2 12:13:18 2013 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 14:13:18 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Toughest EE question ever asked here. In-Reply-To: <5182A21C.8040808@littlegrassy.com> References: <1172399706.638936.1367513089933.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <5182A21C.8040808@littlegrassy.com> Message-ID: This situation has been described very well in a musical number in a stage show I saw a few years ago: http://vimeo.com/9282524 Doug On Thu, May 2, 2013 at 1:27 PM, Matt Wehland wrote: > I've always said that the sensors should be a little below hip level so > you can just wave your butt at them, with the card in your wallet. > Then you can open doors with your hands full. > I've been in places where that works. It was nice. > Then others that placed the sensor higher so you have to pull your wallet > out all the time. > The most fun I had was one time I had misplaced (left it 1000 miles away) > a card, got a replacement then later ended up with both of them in my > wallet. > Swiping would work some times and not others, frustrated me for days until > I went to HR to have my card checked out and found I had 2 of them in my > wallet, one active and one not. From bspidell at comcast.net Thu May 2 12:51:54 2013 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 18:51:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] Toughest EE question ever asked here. In-Reply-To: <1172399706.638936.1367513089933.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <957688698.236512.1367520714782.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Most of the modern proxcards are the 'electrostatic' type. The sensor energizes a transponder circuit in the card and it transmits back the key code. A cellphone in proximity might overwhelm the transponder. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: pethier at comcast.net To: eric at megageek.com Cc: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net Sent: Thursday, May 2, 2013 9:44:49 AM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Toughest EE question ever asked here. Can't figure that one out. A piece of aluminum foil keeps my office key and bus pass separated just fine. From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com Thu May 2 13:12:40 2013 From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott) Date: Thu, 02 May 2013 15:12:40 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Toughest EE question ever asked here. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5182BAA8.2040009@gmail.com> Yeah, the only good answer for this I've ever seen is to replace the system with one that can deal with phones. When my firm built a new office they went with fey fobs that could handle phones just fine. Of course they couldn't stay functional on their own for more than a day or two at a clip, but when they worked, phones were no problem. Of all the systems at clients' offices I've ever seen, it seems to be just as arbitrary--some are rock solid and will work no matter what, all the time, such that I wonder if they doors are just on a generic proximity sensor and the cards are just placebos, while others might work once, if that. My solution is to do away with the things unless you really do happen to work in an industry that needs them. They're one of those 'progress' things and feels more like regression. An architectural firm doesn't have any state secrets in its file room, much less its foyer. On 5/2/2013 12:06 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote: > OK, it's a stretch to say this is shop related, but IF I can get it to > work, it will be lots of 'cred' for me at work! 8>) > > I work at a building that requires proximity cards at just about every > door. That means lots of swiping all day long. Of course everyone wears > their card around their neck or on little pull chains. I put mine in my > wallet. > > The system we have is made by http://www.amerisys.com/ > > Here is the question. I would love to be able to put my card in my cell > phone case and just use that to swipe the readers. Problem... > > The phone interferes with the reader's ability to read the card. In fact, > if I put a piece of aluminum foil behind the card (and my phone is no > where near it), the reader can't read it. > > I've also tried a product like this > http://www.idstronghold.com/Secure-Sleeve-for-Passports-IDSH1002-001-/productinfo/IDSH1002-001/ > . > > But if I have that *behind* the card (meaning not between the card and > reader) it still doesn't read the card. > > So, to the question, What can I put between my cell phone and card to make > the card reader still see the card? It needs to be thin. > > If someone can get me the answer, I'll make a donation to autox.team.net > in their name! > > I know there are EE's out there that can answer this. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu May 2 14:08:51 2013 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 20:08:51 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Toughest EE question ever asked here. In-Reply-To: <5182A21C.8040808@littlegrassy.com> Message-ID: <20130502200851.E3BWG.794.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> ---- Matt Wehland wrote: > I've always said that the sensors should be a little below hip level so > you can just wave your butt at them, with the card in your wallet. I know one reason that might not be a good idea. A previous employer had them at butt level and used them to track when we were in the building (and what building). I always kept my card in my hip pocket (although I pulled it out for use). A large percentage of the time, the incoming reader would trigger on the card in my jeans as I walked out through the turnstile. Then when the next person came in, the system would log that I had come back in, rather than the other person. The system didn't allow more than one to go in or out on the same card, so when that person then tried to leave, the system wouldn't let them! Lots of confusion, which I found thoroughly amusing. I quickly learned to lean over the turnstile, wave my card at the reader on the other side, then turn it in (so the system thought I just came in), so then it would let me out. The guards looked at me funny, but had no procedure that said I couldn't do that, so they never objected. Of course, the problem would have been a lot more serious if there hadn't been a guard to override the system (or no way to lean over and trigger the other reader). Just for grins, I tried my current card with it held tightly to my cell phone. Still works solidly with the phone on the outside of the card, and even sometimes with the phone between the reader and card! And they aren't just proximity detectors, because some doors around here won't open for me. (I'm not authorized to be on the roof, for example.) So far, the only failures I've seen have been pretty obvious, like when one of the readers filled with rain water or several months after the card delaminated (from the constant flexing when I sit on it). Randall From jibjib at att.net Thu May 2 20:36:54 2013 From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks) Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 19:36:54 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Toughest EE question ever asked here. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C66477E6F264A2A8B1875BE65563082@EntCentPC> I keep my "swipe" card in my wallet and hip-check the door sensor. Jack -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of eric at megageek.com Sent: Thursday, May 02, 2013 9:06 AM To: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net Subject: [Shop-talk] Toughest EE question ever asked here. OK, it's a stretch to say this is shop related, but IF I can get it to work, it will be lots of 'cred' for me at work! 8>) I work at a building that requires proximity cards at just about every door. That means lots of swiping all day long. Of course everyone wears their card around their neck or on little pull chains. I put mine in my wallet. The system we have is made by http://www.amerisys.com/ Here is the question. I would love to be able to put my card in my cell phone case and just use that to swipe the readers. Problem... The phone interferes with the reader's ability to read the card. In fact, if I put a piece of aluminum foil behind the card (and my phone is no where near it), the reader can't read it. I've also tried a product like this http://www.idstronghold.com/Secure-Sleeve-for-Passports-IDSH1002-001-/produc tinfo/IDSH1002-001/ . But if I have that *behind* the card (meaning not between the card and reader) it still doesn't read the card. So, to the question, What can I put between my cell phone and card to make the card reader still see the card? It needs to be thin. If someone can get me the answer, I'll make a donation to autox.team.net in their name! I know there are EE's out there that can answer this. Thanks! Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib at att.net From jibjib at att.net Thu May 2 20:42:10 2013 From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks) Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 19:42:10 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] I feel . . . wrong In-Reply-To: <5182783D.6010906@lne.com> References: <20130501190607.GA80220@sackheads.org> <5182783D.6010906@lne.com> Message-ID: <1BCE251E61ED423899E80E2C32C0E97C@EntCentPC> +1 on Redline synthetic two stroke oil. It's all I use. Jack -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Eric Murray Sent: Thursday, May 02, 2013 7:29 AM To: shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] I feel . . . wrong On 05/01/2013 12:06 PM, Jimmie Mayfield wrote: > when I'm done, I smell like 2-cycle exhaust. Get some Redline twostroke oil. I prefer their Allsport for power equipment (I also used it in my trials motorcycles). It's a low deposit synthetic oil, made for applications like outboard motors which may have to idle for a long time without fouling a plug and still handle a WFO run back to the dock for beer. It is not that expensive. But the great thing about Redline twostroke oils, besides lubricating well, is that they make the exhaust smell good. Not like unicorn farts or strawberries, but like castor based two-stroke oils. It makes weed whacking smell like the race track without the eye watering race gas. I started using in trials bikes because in trials you do a lot of low speed riding and often practice the same obstacle over and over, so you get to smell your exhaust. And when competing you sometimes wait in a line of a few bikes. The Motul I had been using made the exhaust smell nasty and other competitors complained. You'll still smell like exhaust but you won't mind so much. Eric _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib at att.net From wmc_st at xxiii.com Fri May 3 05:53:43 2013 From: wmc_st at xxiii.com (Wayne) Date: Fri, 03 May 2013 07:53:43 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] I feel . . . wrong In-Reply-To: <1BCE251E61ED423899E80E2C32C0E97C@EntCentPC> References: <20130501190607.GA80220@sackheads.org> <5182783D.6010906@lne.com> <1BCE251E61ED423899E80E2C32C0E97C@EntCentPC> Message-ID: <5183A547.4080708@xxiii.com> On 5/2/2013 10:42 PM, Jack Brooks wrote: > +1 on Redline synthetic two stroke oil. It's all I use. > >> Get some Redline twostroke oil. I prefer their Allsport for power >> equipment (I also used it in my trials motorcycles). Another good alternative that may be a little cheaper: Yamaha's 2 stroke oil, "YamaLube" comes in "2S" for machines with oil injection pumps, and "2R" for pre-mix with gas. Started using it when I got my bike, and then tried it in the little power equipment, and was very pleased at the improvement. It's around $7 - $9/qt at bike shops that are Yamaha dealers, or mail order. -Wayne From eric at megageek.com Mon May 6 12:14:53 2013 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 14:14:53 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Easier EE question Message-ID: OK, Since I'm out of luck for my other EE question, let me try an easier one. Note, not much shop content, but it does allow me to use tools, and it makes the SO happy. Anyway, I got a tanning bad for the SO. She only uses it to relax her muscles since her car accident. But here is the problem... The machine worked fine for a while (I got it used*) But now, when she starts it up, it trips the breaker. I called the company and the breaker size (and wiring) I ran was for the correct size (I think it was a 10% over max rating.) And since the machine worked fine for a while, what could be causing the extra current draw? (and more importantly, how do I find it?) Do I just try another breaker first? is there a way to measure it? Thanks. *= I got this unit used from someone who had it. They got rid of it because it 'sparked and made a loud noise.' When I got it home, turns out that one of the connectors had shorted. I fixed the connector and have been using it since. Thanks again Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson From parkanzky at gmail.com Mon May 6 13:01:35 2013 From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky) Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 15:01:35 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Easier EE question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I would definitely try a new breaker first, since they do fail (although not as frequently as they used to). If that doesn't work, you'll need somebody smarter than me to help you. -Paul On Mon, May 6, 2013 at 2:14 PM, wrote: > OK, Since I'm out of luck for my other EE question, let me try an easier > one. Note, not much shop content, but it does allow me to use tools, and > it makes the SO happy. > > Anyway, I got a tanning bad for the SO. She only uses it to relax her > muscles since her car accident. But here is the problem... > > The machine worked fine for a while (I got it used*) But now, when she > starts it up, it trips the breaker. I called the company and the breaker > size (and wiring) I ran was for the correct size (I think it was a 10% > over max rating.) > > And since the machine worked fine for a while, what could be causing the > extra current draw? (and more importantly, how do I find it?) > > Do I just try another breaker first? is there a way to measure it? > Thanks. > > > *= I got this unit used from someone who had it. They got rid of it > because it 'sparked and made a loud noise.' When I got it home, turns > out that one of the connectors had shorted. I fixed the connector and > have been using it since. > > Thanks again > > Eric P > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson From pat at hornesystemstx.com Mon May 6 14:01:57 2013 From: pat at hornesystemstx.com (Pat Horne) Date: Mon, 06 May 2013 15:01:57 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Easier EE question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <51880C35.1040707@hornesystemstx.com> I agree, try a different breaker first. If you have a breaker of the same size (rating) in the breaker box, just steal it to check. There shouldn't be too much in electrics in the bed, so it is worth a shot. I suspect a timer, some fluorescent tubes with their ballasts and possibly some safety interlock switches. After the breaker I'd try disconnecting the ballasts from the input feed. There may be a plug in relay in the control box that can be unplugged to do this. If it still blows the breaker look a problem with the timer or input wiring. I the breaker holds, start connecting the ballasts one by one until the breaker trips. Leave the last added ballast disconnected and try connecting the rest one by one until you have all of them connected that don't cause the breaker to trip. At this point disconnect the output of the possibly defective ballast, then connect the input of the ballast and see if the breaker trips. If it trips you probably have a bad ballast. If it doesn't check the wiring between the ballast and the lights. We can take this off list if you like, just email me. Peace, Pat Thusly spake eric > OK, Since I'm out of luck for my other EE question, let me try an easier > one. Note, not much shop content, but it does allow me to use tools, and > it makes the SO happy. > > Anyway, I got a tanning bad for the SO. She only uses it to relax her > muscles since her car accident. But here is the problem... > > The machine worked fine for a while (I got it used*) But now, when she > starts it up, it trips the breaker. I called the company and the breaker > size (and wiring) I ran was for the correct size (I think it was a 10% > over max rating.) > > And since the machine worked fine for a while, what could be causing the > extra current draw? (and more importantly, how do I find it?) > > Do I just try another breaker first? is there a way to measure it? > Thanks. > > > *= I got this unit used from someone who had it. They got rid of it > because it 'sparked and made a loud noise.' When I got it home, turns > out that one of the connectors had shorted. I fixed the connector and > have been using it since. > > Thanks again > > Eric P > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat at hornesystemstx.com > > > -- Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems (512) 797-7501 Voice & Text 5026 FM 2001 Pat at HorneSystemsTx.com Lockhart, TX 78644-4443 www.hornesystemstx.com -- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT -- From ericm at lne.com Mon May 6 14:02:22 2013 From: ericm at lne.com (Eric Murray) Date: Mon, 06 May 2013 13:02:22 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] I feel . . . wrong In-Reply-To: <5183A547.4080708@xxiii.com> References: <20130501190607.GA80220@sackheads.org> <5182783D.6010906@lne.com> <1BCE251E61ED423899E80E2C32C0E97C@EntCentPC> <5183A547.4080708@xxiii.com> Message-ID: <51880C4E.3030801@lne.com> On 05/03/2013 04:53 AM, Wayne wrote: > > Another good alternative that may be a little cheaper: Yamaha's 2 > stroke oil, "YamaLube" comes in "2S" for machines with oil injection > pumps, and "2R" for pre-mix with gas. Started using it when I got my > bike, and then tried it in the little power equipment, and was very > pleased at the improvement. It's around $7 - $9/qt at bike shops that > are Yamaha dealers, or mail order. Yamalube is good stuff. All their chemicals are. I used to use their case sealant on my british motorcycles which have especially poor case mating surfaces. My Triumph didn't leak after I was done rebuilding it with Yamabond #4 and #5. But the Redline oil will make the exhaust smell better. Eric. From miatatom at gmail.com Mon May 6 16:05:41 2013 From: miatatom at gmail.com (Tom Shirley) Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 18:05:41 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Powerline Network Adapter Message-ID: My home is 2 stories with a basement and the router is on the top floor. I'd like to be able to set up a small computer in the basement using a powerline network adapter. There are a lot of them on sale on eBay and the prices are from cheap to not so cheap. Any suggestions or recommendations? Tom Shirley www.sceniccitymiatas.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon May 6 16:11:16 2013 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 22:11:16 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Easier EE question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20130506221116.772V9.38642.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> > And since the machine worked fine for a while, what could be causing the > extra current draw? (and more importantly, how do I find it?) Just a thought; could something else have gotten connected to the circuit in the meantime? > *= I got this unit used from someone who had it. They got rid of it > because it 'sparked and made a loud noise.' When I got it home, turns > out that one of the connectors had shorted. I fixed the connector and > have been using it since. Given that history, I'd be going through the bed looking for more problems like another short or a bad ballast. Randall From wmc_st at xxiii.com Mon May 6 16:17:09 2013 From: wmc_st at xxiii.com (Wayne) Date: Mon, 06 May 2013 18:17:09 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Powerline Network Adapter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <51882BE5.2020406@xxiii.com> On 5/6/2013 6:05 PM, Tom Shirley wrote: > My home is 2 stories with a basement and the router is on the top floor. > I'd like to be able to set up a small computer in the basement using a > powerline network adapter. There are a lot of them on sale on eBay and the > prices are from cheap to not so cheap. > Any suggestions or recommendations? I prefer to go wired when easy, but sounds like a perfect wi-fi application. You do have wi-fi in the house, no? I've used this EdiMax NIC from NewEgg.com with good results. $17, free shipping. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833315096 -wayne From parkanzky at gmail.com Mon May 6 16:17:17 2013 From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky) Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 18:17:17 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Powerline Network Adapter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Any reason not to get a wireless router? Two stories shouldn't be too far for it to work and if it is, relocate your router to the main floor and you can easily cover the whole house. A decent wireless router and a USB wireless adapter are probably no more expensive than the powerline stuff you're looking at and you can connect any device you want from anywhere in your house if you ever want to add more. -Paul On Mon, May 6, 2013 at 6:05 PM, Tom Shirley wrote: > My home is 2 stories with a basement and the router is on the top floor. > I'd like to be able to set up a small computer in the basement using a > powerline network adapter. There are a lot of them on sale on eBay and the > prices are from cheap to not so cheap. > > Any suggestions or recommendations? > > Tom Shirley > www.sceniccitymiatas.com From ericm at lne.com Mon May 6 17:45:57 2013 From: ericm at lne.com (Eric Murray) Date: Mon, 06 May 2013 16:45:57 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] chicken yard Message-ID: <518840B5.50807@lne.com> After bobcats ate all our chickens we're building a new chicken fortress. The yard needs to be covered on the top in addition to side fencing. We're planning on using chicken wire for the top. But we need something to hold the wire (and a bobcat or two) up. The yard is sort of triangular about 40' across the sides, with one corner truncated. I was going to use some old well pipe I have but it's really heavy. My wife wants to use PVC pipe but I don't think it will be sturdy enough unless it's large diameter. I was thinking 1" galvanized conduit. Do y'all think that'll be sturdy enough? Eric From peterwmurray at gmail.com Mon May 6 17:48:53 2013 From: peterwmurray at gmail.com (Peter Murray) Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 19:48:53 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Powerline Network Adapter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I have used with good success the Netgear Ethernet over Power adapters. I have used the XE102 and XE104 adapters, both of which are no longer in production. Their actual throughput is about half of their raw throughput, but they work well. If you buy a set, test them and be prepared to return them - in case they do not work between the outlets you choose. -Peter On Mon, May 6, 2013 at 6:05 PM, Tom Shirley wrote: > My home is 2 stories with a basement and the router is on the top floor. > I'd like to be able to set up a small computer in the basement using a > powerline network adapter. There are a lot of them on sale on eBay and the > prices are from cheap to not so cheap. > > Any suggestions or recommendations? > > Tom Shirley > www.sceniccitymiatas.com > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray at gmail.com From jamesf at groupwbench.org Mon May 6 17:52:53 2013 From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin) Date: Mon, 06 May 2013 16:52:53 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] chicken yard In-Reply-To: <518840B5.50807@lne.com> References: <518840B5.50807@lne.com> Message-ID: <51884255.7030203@groupwbench.org> On 5/6/2013 4:45 PM, Eric Murray wrote: > I was going to use some old well pipe I have but it's really heavy. My > wife wants to use PVC pipe but I don't think it will be sturdy enough > unless it's large diameter. I was thinking 1" galvanized conduit. Do > y'all think that'll be sturdy enough? How about hurricane fence (aka chain-link) posts? Seems to be similar to 1" galvie pipe plus it has an infrastructure of parts available. jim From bk13 at earthlink.net Mon May 6 17:55:56 2013 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Mon, 06 May 2013 16:55:56 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Easier EE question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5188430C.7020704@earthlink.net> Eric - I agree that you should try another breaker. But first, when you trip the breaker what else goes out? In other words, is it a dedicated circuit for the bed or is the circuit shared with something else? As an example, I can't start my compressor when the living room TV is on or I trip the breaker. Even then, to start it initially, I have to pulse it a few times or it trips the breaker. My situation is a 15A compressor on a 20A circuit, but it is a good distance from the breaker box with several connections along the way. (The house came this way - a future project.) You may also have a bad outlet. You could try a good 20A outlet (one of the prong holes looks like a sideways "T") and don't use the push in connector/back-wire. You want a large part of the wire well clamped for a great connection. Do you have a different circuit near enough to try? That is also a quick check. I've never used one, but search for "clamp on amp meter". It seems like a easy solution to check the current going to the bed. Check it compared to the power tag on the bed. If you don't have one, you can buy a new tool. Amazon had them starting about $20. If all of that is good, I'd try the top or bottom of the bed by itself. My assumption here is that one part may be bad and turning off a bank of lights is easier than individual lights. The top and bottom should each pull a near equal current, so you can do a process of elimination and look for the problem - half of the top/bottom, then half of the next bad half, etc. Also, that connector that shorted may have failed due to an overload, so I'd look at what is around it as well. Brian On 5/6/2013 11:14 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote: > OK, Since I'm out of luck for my other EE question, let me try an easier > one. Note, not much shop content, but it does allow me to use tools, and > it makes the SO happy. > > Anyway, I got a tanning bad for the SO. She only uses it to relax her > muscles since her car accident. But here is the problem... > > The machine worked fine for a while (I got it used*) But now, when she > starts it up, it trips the breaker. I called the company and the breaker > size (and wiring) I ran was for the correct size (I think it was a 10% > over max rating.) > > And since the machine worked fine for a while, what could be causing the > extra current draw? (and more importantly, how do I find it?) > > Do I just try another breaker first? is there a way to measure it? > Thanks. > > > *= I got this unit used from someone who had it. They got rid of it > because it 'sparked and made a loud noise.' When I got it home, turns > out that one of the connectors had shorted. I fixed the connector and > have been using it since. > > Thanks again > > Eric P > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net From eltonclark at gmail.com Mon May 6 18:11:39 2013 From: eltonclark at gmail.com (Elton E. (Tony) Clark) Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 19:11:39 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] chicken yard In-Reply-To: <51884255.7030203@groupwbench.org> References: <518840B5.50807@lne.com> <51884255.7030203@groupwbench.org> Message-ID: You'd have to have strong perimeter posts/buildings/trees but heavy gauge galvanized wire, like guy-wire, might be worth a thought. On 06/05/2013, Jim Franklin wrote: > On 5/6/2013 4:45 PM, Eric Murray wrote: > >> I was going to use some old well pipe I have but it's really heavy. My >> wife wants to use PVC pipe but I don't think it will be sturdy enough >> unless it's large diameter. I was thinking 1" galvanized conduit. Do >> y'all think that'll be sturdy enough? > > How about hurricane fence (aka chain-link) posts? Seems to be similar to > 1" galvie pipe plus it has an infrastructure of parts available. > > jim > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eltonclark at gmail.com > > -- *I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.* *Thomas Jefferson* From jem at milleredp.com Mon May 6 18:36:57 2013 From: jem at milleredp.com (John Miller) Date: Mon, 06 May 2013 17:36:57 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Powerline Network Adapter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <51884CA9.7010407@milleredp.com> On 5/6/2013 3:05 PM, Tom Shirley wrote: > My home is 2 stories with a basement and the router is on the top floor. > I'd like to be able to set up a small computer in the basement using a > powerline network adapter. There are a lot of them on sale on eBay and the > prices are from cheap to not so cheap. > > Any suggestions or recommendations I'm using some TP-Link powerline Ethernet devices to connect my sprinkler timers and etc. to the household network, they work well and were very much plug-and-play. John. From mjw at littlegrassy.com Mon May 6 19:39:47 2013 From: mjw at littlegrassy.com (Matt Wehland) Date: Mon, 06 May 2013 20:39:47 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] chicken yard In-Reply-To: References: <518840B5.50807@lne.com> <51884255.7030203@groupwbench.org> Message-ID: <51885B63.4000801@littlegrassy.com> Try looking into some chicken forums. I've never had any, but seriously looked into chickens when I lived in the country. The one thing every body agreed on is 'chicken wire' isn't. It is useless against predators, too light to offer much protection. Hardware cloth is what was recommended. I read too many stories of people using chicken wire and then still loosing birds. Also keep in mind the paw size of predators, many will reach in and pull the heads off of the chickens, even if they can't get in the coop themselves. And don't forget some will dig under the pen. You basically need a full cage, side/top and bottom protection. Some chicken sites, no idea how good they are any more- www.backyardchickens.com/ http://www.chickenforum.com/f20/ http://poultrycommunity.com/forum/forum.php Matt On 5/6/2013 7:11 PM, Elton E. (Tony) Clark wrote: > You'd have to have strong perimeter posts/buildings/trees but heavy > gauge galvanized wire, like guy-wire, might be worth a thought. > > On 06/05/2013, Jim Franklin wrote: >> On 5/6/2013 4:45 PM, Eric Murray wrote: >> >>> I was going to use some old well pipe I have but it's really heavy. My >>> wife wants to use PVC pipe but I don't think it will be sturdy enough >>> unless it's large diameter. I was thinking 1" galvanized conduit. Do >>> y'all think that'll be sturdy enough? >> How about hurricane fence (aka chain-link) posts? Seems to be similar to >> 1" galvie pipe plus it has an infrastructure of parts available. >> >> jim >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eltonclark at gmail.com >> >> > -- Matt Wehland (815) 295-4533 From jibjib at att.net Mon May 6 20:18:22 2013 From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks) Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 19:18:22 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] I feel . . . wrong In-Reply-To: <51880C4E.3030801@lne.com> References: <20130501190607.GA80220@sackheads.org><5182783D.6010906@lne.com><1BCE251E61ED423899E80E2C32C0E97C@EntCentPC><5183A547.4080708@xxiii.com> <51880C4E.3030801@lne.com> Message-ID: <859150D7A5124D6A8542F7E7645B2295@EntCentPC> If you really want the nice 2-stroke smell use castor oil. We use it in our RC Nitro engines and every once in a while, like when we are heading for a classic cruise night, I'll dump a pint into my 1960 Triumph TR3's gas tank. Makes that vintage car smell even better. -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Eric Murray Sent: Monday, May 06, 2013 1:02 PM To: shop-talk at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] I feel . . . wrong On 05/03/2013 04:53 AM, Wayne wrote: > > Another good alternative that may be a little cheaper: Yamaha's 2 > stroke oil, "YamaLube" comes in "2S" for machines with oil injection > pumps, and "2R" for pre-mix with gas. Started using it when I got my > bike, and then tried it in the little power equipment, and was very > pleased at the improvement. It's around $7 - $9/qt at bike shops that > are Yamaha dealers, or mail order. Yamalube is good stuff. All their chemicals are. I used to use their case sealant on my british motorcycles which have especially poor case mating surfaces. My Triumph didn't leak after I was done rebuilding it with Yamabond #4 and #5. But the Redline oil will make the exhaust smell better. Eric. _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib at att.net From nick at landform.co.uk Tue May 7 00:19:33 2013 From: nick at landform.co.uk (nick brearley) Date: Tue, 07 May 2013 07:19:33 +0100 Subject: [Shop-talk] Powerline Network Adapter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <51889CF5.2040503@landform.co.uk> Peter Murray wrote: > I have used with good success the Netgear Ethernet over Power adapters. I > have used the XE102 and XE104 adapters, both of which are no longer in > production. Their actual throughput is about half of their raw throughput, > but they work well. > > If you buy a set, test them and be prepared to return them - in case they > do not work between the outlets you choose. > > +1 on the Netgear stuff. I have used their Wireless-N Powerline AV200 Extender Kit for 18 months and been happy with it. Bought it from Amazon and have not had to return it. I don't have Peter's expertise to be able to measure its output but it appears quite adequate. We live in an old house with many brick walls. As far as I can see wifi signals travel vertically much better than laterally, in others words walls present more resistance than floors. Hence the need for the extender. It worked well in the shop, a separate building about 30 feet from the house, when tried as an experiment. Nick Brearley From wmc_st at xxiii.com Wed May 8 11:44:29 2013 From: wmc_st at xxiii.com (Wayne) Date: Wed, 08 May 2013 13:44:29 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] 2 stroke oil In-Reply-To: <51880C4E.3030801@lne.com> References: <20130501190607.GA80220@sackheads.org> <5182783D.6010906@lne.com> <1BCE251E61ED423899E80E2C32C0E97C@EntCentPC> <5183A547.4080708@xxiii.com> <51880C4E.3030801@lne.com> Message-ID: <518A8EFD.1090402@xxiii.com> On 5/6/2013 4:02 PM, Eric Murray wrote: > Yamalube is good stuff. All their chemicals are. I used to use their > case sealant on my british motorcycles > which have especially poor case mating surfaces. My Triumph didn't leak > after I was done rebuilding it with Yamabond #4 and #5. > But the Redline oil will make the exhaust smell better. HuhHuh, I don't know if the YamaLube makes it "better". I can say its smell is slightly noticable it in the exhaust, but it doesn't make my hair and clothes REEK of burned oil like the typical junk sold for power equipment. And it's under $10/qt vs > $15/qt for RedLine. And it's a lot easier to find on a local store's shelves vs RedLine. I am a huge RedLine fan tho -- run it in my transmissions, just dumped 2qts in the Lexus' rear diff last weekend, and use the "Lightweight Shockproof" in the bike's rear drive case. -Wayne From KVacek at Ameritech.net Wed May 8 11:22:45 2013 From: KVacek at Ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Wed, 8 May 2013 12:22:45 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Electronic engine valves Message-ID: <003c01ce4c10$a7ca16f0$f75e44d0$@Ameritech.net> Maybe you've already seen this, but if not. These things are similar to electronic fuel injectors on steroids, installed in the intake and exhaust tracts. Depending on how they're installed, doing a valve job could be a quick, screw-in procedure. For that matter, the head really needn't be detachable unless necessary for ease of manufacturing in a particular engine. And your cam profile will be in the computer. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bch5B23_pu0 Karl From koblinger at verizon.net Wed May 8 13:53:31 2013 From: koblinger at verizon.net (koblinger at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 08 May 2013 14:53:31 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Electronic engine valves Message-ID: <31817782.258975.1368042811290.JavaMail.root@vznit170130> From pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com Thu May 9 08:22:30 2013 From: pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com (PJ McGarvey) Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 10:22:30 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Renting garage space Message-ID: Toying with the idea of *considering* bidding on a house with an amazing garage... rest of the house is great too, just has some other issues and the price is a bit high... So to explore way how I might be able to recoup the price of said house - alot of which I think I think are b/c of this garage - I'm wondering how I can go about maybe renting space whether it be just storage or possibly also work space. Garage:Detached, 1300 sq. ft. - will fit 7 cars, I would consider giving up about 4 cars worth.10 years old, has plenty of power, air compressor lines, heat/AC, lighting ... all top notch. Security system included, Private cul de sac in nice area. I've seen the house and garage with a realtor. One of my main concerns would be the neighbors, and not annoying them especially since I'd barely know them upon move in. So starting out small might be a good thing. Current owner is a big car guy, lots of hot rods, so the neighbors can't be all that surprised. hehe. So I'm wondering for those who are garage space renters or rentees, what or how you charge, what you are getting/including, and what kinds of things are guys looking for in rental space, do you sign any "gentlemens" agreements, and what kinds of issues do you run into? The wife is all for the garage and how we can u$e it, so THAT'S out of the way.. :-) The attached 2 car garage would be a step up for me already, so at least we'd have a place for other stuff. BTW, my current house was previously owned by a 70 year old widower, who rented the 2 car garage to a Viper and built drag Mustang when I bought it. Thanks From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com Thu May 9 08:46:09 2013 From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott) Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 10:46:09 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Renting garage space In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <518BB6B1.3080306@gmail.com> Man, there is NO way I'm letting you keep your car in my garage, whether you pay me for that or not. At least not without enough insurance to ballast a small aircraft carrier. And maybe not even then. On 5/9/2013 10:22 AM, PJ McGarvey wrote: > Toying with the idea of *considering* bidding on a house with an amazing > garage... rest of the house is great too, just has some other issues and the > price is a bit high... > So to explore way how I might be able to recoup the price of said house - alot > of which I think I think are b/c of this garage - I'm wondering how I can go > about maybe renting space whether it be just storage or possibly also work > space. > Garage:Detached, 1300 sq. ft. - will fit 7 cars, I would consider giving up > about 4 cars worth.10 years old, has plenty of power, air compressor lines, > heat/AC, lighting ... all top notch. Security system included, Private cul > de sac in nice area. I've seen the house and garage with a realtor. > One of my main concerns would be the neighbors, and not annoying them > especially since I'd barely know them upon move in. So starting out small > might be a good thing. Current owner is a big car guy, lots of hot rods, so > the neighbors can't be all that surprised. hehe. > So I'm wondering for those who are garage space renters or rentees, what or > how you charge, what you are getting/including, and what kinds of things are > guys looking for in rental space, do you sign any "gentlemens" agreements, and > what kinds of issues do you run into? > The wife is all for the garage and how we can u$e it, so THAT'S out of the > way.. :-) The attached 2 car garage would be a step up for me already, so at > least we'd have a place for other stuff. > BTW, my current house was previously owned by a 70 year old widower, who > rented the 2 car garage to a Viper and built drag Mustang when I bought it. From parkanzky at gmail.com Thu May 9 09:08:55 2013 From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky) Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 11:08:55 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Renting garage space In-Reply-To: <518BB6B1.3080306@gmail.com> References: <518BB6B1.3080306@gmail.com> Message-ID: There is an organization near Ann Arbor called the "Ypsi Yacht Club" that operates as a community garage. They have a couple of warehouses linked together and rent storage and work bays to members. They also have a collection of community tools (Air, a lift, etc.). It's a really cool setup for auto enthusiasts and there were a lot of neat projects going on when I visited their open house. One of the things I wondered was how they handled insurance, since they had a big collection of fairly high-dollar cars there and people working with power tools are bound to injure themselves or somebody else eventually. -Paul On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 10:46 AM, Scott wrote: > Man, there is NO way I'm letting you keep your car in my garage, whether you > pay me for that or not. > > At least not without enough insurance to ballast a small aircraft carrier. > And maybe not even then. > > > On 5/9/2013 10:22 AM, PJ McGarvey wrote: >> >> Toying with the idea of *considering* bidding on a house with an amazing >> garage... rest of the house is great too, just has some other issues and >> the >> price is a bit high... >> So to explore way how I might be able to recoup the price of said house - >> alot >> of which I think I think are b/c of this garage - I'm wondering how I can >> go >> about maybe renting space whether it be just storage or possibly also work >> space. >> Garage:Detached, 1300 sq. ft. - will fit 7 cars, I would consider giving >> up >> about 4 cars worth.10 years old, has plenty of power, air compressor >> lines, >> heat/AC, lighting ... all top notch. Security system included, Private >> cul >> de sac in nice area. I've seen the house and garage with a realtor. >> One of my main concerns would be the neighbors, and not annoying them >> especially since I'd barely know them upon move in. So starting out small >> might be a good thing. Current owner is a big car guy, lots of hot rods, >> so >> the neighbors can't be all that surprised. hehe. >> So I'm wondering for those who are garage space renters or rentees, what >> or >> how you charge, what you are getting/including, and what kinds of things >> are >> guys looking for in rental space, do you sign any "gentlemens" agreements, >> and >> what kinds of issues do you run into? >> The wife is all for the garage and how we can u$e it, so THAT'S out of the >> way.. :-) The attached 2 car garage would be a step up for me already, >> so at >> least we'd have a place for other stuff. >> BTW, my current house was previously owned by a 70 year old widower, who >> rented the 2 car garage to a Viper and built drag Mustang when I bought >> it. >\ From mbarre at juno.com Thu May 9 09:33:13 2013 From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 15:33:13 GMT Subject: [Shop-talk] Renting garage space Message-ID: <20130509.113313.19956.0@webmail03.vgs.untd.com> I am a landlord, but not just garage space.As has already been mentioned, I think the critical issue will be insurance - specifically liability. Interesting concept though. Finding the right person will make or break the endeavor.Just to bound the downside - go rent Pacific Heights then add power tools! The rental agreement would take some effort - shared is trickier than exclusive.Everyone has to secure their own stuff?...How do you feel about sharing tools?Could your renter conduct "for profit" work there?Can he or she come and go at any time? Perhaps the best option would be a friend that wanted to keep a car there, but even then I would still have a written agreement. many issues... I would say buy it if you like it and can get a fair price, but don't consider rental income unless you are prepared to rent out the entire shop. In a perfect world, the 2 car attached would be enough for you and your renter was Mr. Goodwrench and you could negotiate a preferred rate and he would do all of your wrenching for you in the shop he was renting for big $$. Good Luck! Keep us apprised. Matt ---------- Original Message ---------- From: PJ McGarvey To: Shop Talk Subject: [Shop-talk] Renting garage space Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 10:22:30 -0400 Toying with the idea of *considering* bidding on a house with an amazing garage... rest of the house is great too, just has some other issues and the price is a bit high... From eric at megageek.com Thu May 9 09:33:24 2013 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 11:33:24 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Renting garage space In-Reply-To: Message-ID: PJ, I let me throw in my findings on renting space. First, INSURANCE!!!! Make sure you can get the appropriate coverage. Not just for the contents, but for a person on your property that injures themselves. If you are renting 'off the books' your policy might deny any payout in the event of a claim leaving you PERSONALLY on the hook. You will also need to check your zoning. This isn't a problem in most places, but in the areas it is an issue, you can most likely forget about doing it. Next, if you do this, make sure you have a iron clad contract on what happens to the contents if the unit is unpaid. It would be very easy for someone to stop paying, and you are stuck trying to legally get rid of the contents. Or worst yet, you get rid of them, and he sues you because you didn't do it 100% legally. Finally, it really is hard to make that much money renting out spaces. Here, in NJ, a top dollar storage unit that can hold a car is about $100 a month in a REAL facility with 24 hours electronic access, fully insured, etc. I'm not sure if you can make it worth it for all the headaches and hassles and liabilities you are exposed to. When I do 'storage', its mostly motorcycles for the winter months. I'm paid in fully when I pick them up from the person (then I take photos before I load them). Then I just drop them off at a predetermined date. Or I store boats, trailers, rvs for people I know. Again, I hate to say it, but insurance makes most great business opportunities unprofitable. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson From eric at megageek.com Thu May 9 09:33:24 2013 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 11:33:24 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Renting garage space In-Reply-To: <518BB6B1.3080306@gmail.com> Message-ID: Scott writes.... >Man, there is NO way I'm letting you keep your car in my garage, whether >you pay me for that or not. >At least not without enough insurance to ballast a small aircraft >carrier. And maybe not even then. PJ, this reminds me of one other thing to consider. Years ago, a barn that was housing over 30 classic cars caught fire. They all burned to the ground. Cause of the fire was one owner's carelessness. As a result, all the vehicles (some VERY HIGH END) were lost and most insurance policies didn't pay because they weren't stored 'properly.' That means, you have one renter's car catch fire, and everything could be lost, his unit, the other renters, AND YOUR STUFF. (and I hope the garage isn't attached to the house.) FWIW Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson From fishplate at gmail.com Thu May 9 09:58:08 2013 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 11:58:08 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Renting garage space In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 10:22 AM, PJ McGarvey wrote: > Toying with the idea of *considering* bidding on a house with an amazing > garage... rest of the house is great too, just has some other issues and the > price is a bit high... Others have pointed out all the traps to which you expose yourself if you rent out the space. Better to offer what you think is a fair price that you can afford, then afterwards you can invite people you trust to cooperate in some sort of friend-to-friend deal. But i wouldn't go commercial, without commercial insurance and commercial rates. And at least where I live, you can't do that in a residential area. All it takes is one nosy neighbor who doesn't like what's going on, and you're in over your head with no rental income. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From jamesf at groupwbench.org Thu May 9 10:55:28 2013 From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin) Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 09:55:28 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Renting garage space In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <518BD500.3080504@groupwbench.org> On 5/9/2013 7:22 AM, PJ McGarvey wrote: > So to explore way how I might be able to recoup the price of said house - alot > of which I think I think are b/c of this garage - I'm wondering how I can go > about maybe renting space whether it be just storage or possibly also work > space. In today's litigious society, the only way I would do this is to form an LLC or S-corp and have that entity run the rental business, and possibly own/lease the property. I would for sure consult with an attorney beforehand. If someone gets hurt on your property, you can lose it just in lawyer fees alone from a lawsuit. jim From mbarre at juno.com Thu May 9 11:19:47 2013 From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 17:19:47 GMT Subject: [Shop-talk] CadiLumina Message-ID: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com> http://columbusga.craigslist.org/ctd/3784519887.html I bet it was built in a shop.... From hillman at planet-torque.com Thu May 9 11:23:04 2013 From: hillman at planet-torque.com (David Hillman) Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 13:23:04 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] CadiLumina In-Reply-To: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com> References: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: On Thu, 9 May 2013, Matt wrote: > http://columbusga.craigslist.org/ctd/3784519887.html I bet it was built in a > shop.... Would it not actually be a Luminadillac? -- David Hillman From eltonclark at gmail.com Thu May 9 12:41:12 2013 From: eltonclark at gmail.com (Elton E. (Tony) Clark) Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 13:41:12 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] CadiLumina In-Reply-To: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com> References: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: *Crazy Bob's Body Shop????* On 9 May 2013 12:19, Matt wrote: > *I bet it was built in a > shop*.... > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eltonclark at gmail.com From pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com Thu May 9 13:14:17 2013 From: pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com (PJ McGarvey) Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 15:14:17 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Renting garage space In-Reply-To: <518BD500.3080504@groupwbench.org> References: , <518BD500.3080504@groupwbench.org> Message-ID: Some good ideas in there, thanks. Obviously liability is a big issue, and even if covered it's one that could easily outweigh the income earned. Not to mention the pain in the ass renter you may end up with. One thing I learned from renting a house, was that it might be a good idea to check first to see if the renter has a Daddy who is a lawyer.. BIG no no. Escort them out immediately. They will pull that card whenever possible. Makes we wonder what kind of *standard* home insurance policy this building would carry anyway... Darn expensive hobbies. -PJ > Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 09:55:28 -0700 > From: jamesf at groupwbench.org > To: shop-talk at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Renting garage space > In today's litigious society, the only way I would do this is to form an > LLC or S-corp and have that entity run the rental business, and possibly > own/lease the property. I would for sure consult with an attorney > beforehand. If someone gets hurt on your property, you can lose it just > in lawyer fees alone from a lawsuit. From bk13 at earthlink.net Thu May 9 16:46:25 2013 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 15:46:25 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Renting garage space In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <518C2741.1080309@earthlink.net> Talk to your insurance company and if you are in a city of some sort, also talk to them. My city does not allow rental of any part of your property in the residential area (other than the full property). It is zoned for single family. This is mainly to stop illegal second units, but also goes to people renting out RV parking on their property. Brian On 5/9/2013 7:22 AM, PJ McGarvey wrote: > Toying with the idea of *considering* bidding on a house with an amazing > garage... rest of the house is great too, just has some other issues and the > price is a bit high... > So to explore way how I might be able to recoup the price of said house - alot > of which I think I think are b/c of this garage - I'm wondering how I can go > about maybe renting space whether it be just storage or possibly also work > space. > Garage:Detached, 1300 sq. ft. - will fit 7 cars, I would consider giving up > about 4 cars worth.10 years old, has plenty of power, air compressor lines, > heat/AC, lighting ... all top notch. Security system included, Private cul > de sac in nice area. I've seen the house and garage with a realtor. > One of my main concerns would be the neighbors, and not annoying them > especially since I'd barely know them upon move in. So starting out small > might be a good thing. Current owner is a big car guy, lots of hot rods, so > the neighbors can't be all that surprised. hehe. > So I'm wondering for those who are garage space renters or rentees, what or > how you charge, what you are getting/including, and what kinds of things are > guys looking for in rental space, do you sign any "gentlemens" agreements, and > what kinds of issues do you run into? > The wife is all for the garage and how we can u$e it, so THAT'S out of the > way.. :-) The attached 2 car garage would be a step up for me already, so at > least we'd have a place for other stuff. > BTW, my current house was previously owned by a 70 year old widower, who > rented the 2 car garage to a Viper and built drag Mustang when I bought it. > Thanks > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net From shochschild at att.net Thu May 9 16:50:42 2013 From: shochschild at att.net (steve hochschild) Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 17:50:42 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Renting garage space In-Reply-To: References: , <518BD500.3080504@groupwbench.org> Message-ID: <518C2842.9020005@att.net> Don't rent it to a car guy, rent it to a glass artist, or a painter, or as a yoga studio, or even as rehearsal space... Far fewer risks and potential for conflicts that way. I have learned never to rent to another artist in the same medium... On 5/9/2013 2:14 PM, PJ McGarvey wrote: > Some good ideas in there, thanks. Obviously liability is a big issue, and > even if covered it's one that could easily outweigh the income earned. Not to > mention the pain in the ass renter you may end up with. > One thing I learned from renting a house, was that it might be a good idea to > check first to see if the renter has a Daddy who is a lawyer.. BIG no no. > Escort them out immediately. They will pull that card whenever possible. > > Makes we wonder what kind of *standard* home insurance policy this building > would carry anyway... > Darn expensive hobbies. > > -PJ >> Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 09:55:28 -0700 >> From: jamesf at groupwbench.org >> To: shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Renting garage space >> In today's litigious society, the only way I would do this is to form an >> LLC or S-corp and have that entity run the rental business, and possibly >> own/lease the property. I would for sure consult with an attorney >> beforehand. If someone gets hurt on your property, you can lose it just >> in lawyer fees alone from a lawsuit. > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shochschild at att.net From wmc_st at xxiii.com Thu May 9 17:11:50 2013 From: wmc_st at xxiii.com (Wayne) Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 19:11:50 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Renting garage space In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <518C2D36.4050307@xxiii.com> On 5/9/2013 10:22 AM, PJ McGarvey wrote: > So to explore way how I might be able to recoup the price of said house - alot > of which I think I think are b/c of this garage - I'm wondering how I can go > about maybe renting space whether it be just storage or possibly also work Wow, I would NOT even go there. Maybe if it was rented to a friend, *JUST* for storage. Letting a stranger share space can turn into a nightmare quickly. My Dad & I built a 3 car garage / shop behind our urban house in the early 70s when I was a wee one. 'Rents got divorced and by the 80s; Mom was single in the house and renting the garage for spare $$$. First renter was some kid (relatively - well probably in his 20s) that did all the obnoxious stuff kidz that age do (crap! have I gotten that old?! Only going on 47!) Drink and smoke heavily & party w friends at the garage, make lots of noise, rev engines, have half a dozen friends' cars parked in the alley to the garage, etc. Then he just quit paying rent or showing up for several months. Then had the gall to be PISSED I took the liberty of using MY garage *I* built that he hadn't paid rent on to swap my Toyota's clutch. 2nd guy was an older motor head. Messed with all the wiring and disabled our ability to switch on the back yard or alley lights from in the house, oil stained the !@#$ out of the floor, changed the locks without permission, dented up the sheetrock, and refused us access (if you think I can't pick or bump a lock in seconds, you just lost that bet!) and was suspected of using the natural gas furnace out there at our expense, even though the lease stated he wasn't allowed to use it. He also kinda moved out "in the middle of the night" but at least mailed us rent owed. I think Matt put it pretty well. With liability & fire issues, inappropriate use of your stuff, damage to the structure, potential to piss off neighbors you may have to spend years living with, NO WAY IN HELL. -Wayne From wmc_st at xxiii.com Thu May 9 17:12:05 2013 From: wmc_st at xxiii.com (Wayne) Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 19:12:05 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] CadiLumina In-Reply-To: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com> References: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <518C2D45.7000701@xxiii.com> On 5/9/2013 1:19 PM, Matt wrote: > http://columbusga.craigslist.org/ctd/3784519887.html I bet it was built in a > shop.... Wow! Atrocious, but I gotta give it to him for creativity! -w From Bob at texmog.com Sat May 11 10:15:34 2013 From: Bob at texmog.com (Bob Nogueira) Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 11:15:34 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Car audio Message-ID: <342484BA-3C66-4C57-B661-F6BA34D0EECE@texmog.com> Several years ago I spent time and effort to get audio in my LBC that was listenable with the top down. Recently I realized that the sound quality had deteriorated at the upper volume levels needed for top down listening. I figured I had blown out the speakers so replaced two of the four and found no difference. Can modern car radios go bad in a manner that the quality of the sound deteriorates at high volume as a bad speaker or did I just buy some bad speakers? Any way to check the radio? Bob From arvidj at visi.com Sat May 11 10:38:47 2013 From: arvidj at visi.com (Arvid Jedlicka) Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 11:38:47 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Car audio In-Reply-To: <342484BA-3C66-4C57-B661-F6BA34D0EECE@texmog.com> References: <342484BA-3C66-4C57-B661-F6BA34D0EECE@texmog.com> Message-ID: <8FD8AFB9404E4EC7998D24B137E4C06B@HP62011> I have experienced that exact phenomenon ... audio quality going down. A hearing test finally located the components that were deteriorating with age. -----Original Message----- From: Bob Nogueira Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 11:15 AM To: Shop Talk Subject: [Shop-talk] Car audio Several years ago I spent time and effort to get audio in my LBC that was listenable with the top down. Recently I realized that the sound quality had deteriorated at the upper volume levels needed for top down listening. I figured I had blown out the speakers so replaced two of the four and found no difference. Can modern car radios go bad in a manner that the quality of the sound deteriorates at high volume as a bad speaker or did I just buy some bad speakers? Any way to check the radio? Bob _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/arvidj at visi.com From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat May 11 10:50:18 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 09:50:18 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Car audio In-Reply-To: <342484BA-3C66-4C57-B661-F6BA34D0EECE@texmog.com> Message-ID: <3F.A2.22955.1C67E815@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > Can modern car radios go bad in a manner that the quality of > the sound deteriorates at high volume Certainly possible. But one of the first things I would check is that the amplifier is getting a good solid 12v even at high power output. For me, there would also be a distinct possibility that I'm trying to listen at a higher volume than before. With the setup I had in my TR3A, there was a fairly fine line between "couldn't hear" and distortion. And I know my hearing has fallen off even further since then. Unfortunately, it's quite possible that your new speakers can't handle the power, as well. For testing, all I can suggest is swapping with known good components, unless you have access to a oscilloscope. I've got an older HP scope that I picked up on eBay for $30. Only good to 20 MHz, but that's plenty for working on audio. Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat May 11 19:36:08 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 18:36:08 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] GM rear axle C-clip removal Message-ID: Ok, I'm stuck. Got a big GM limited slip solid axle with the half shafts located by those stupid C-clips. I've got the locating bolt and the cross pin out. But I cannot get the shaft to move, to get clearance to remove the clip! The wheel bearing is shot, so it might be the bearing keeping it from moving, but I can wiggle the bearing end up and down while pushing on it, and nothing seems to bind. When I beat on it with a BFH, the axle actually rings (!) making me think it must be free all the way to the gear. I also tried spinning it up to about 70 mph and pushing on the axle with it still spinning, thinking that might shake loose whatever is blocking, but it made no difference. Axle is still in the car, and I'd really like to avoid removing it if possible. But that bearing and shaft have got to be changed. I already did the other side (couple years ago), and the axle slid in (and out) easily. Any thoughts?? Oh yeah, 95 Buick Roadmaster Estate wagon if that make any difference. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat May 11 20:09:54 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 19:09:54 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] GM rear axle C-clip removal In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <09.D0.02984.8E9FE815@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> In the infamous words of Emily Litella, "Never mind!" Turns out, the LSD clutches were slightly out of place (probably caused by yours truly initially trying to remove them) and blocking the motion of the C-clip. A stout brass drift and BFH moved them back and it all came right apart. Now all I've got to do is get that $@# race out of the housing. Last time I wound up cutting it apart to get it out, but this one maybe isn't as bad. Nah, I couldn't get that lucky! -- Randall From cavanadd at frontier.com Sun May 12 13:16:30 2013 From: cavanadd at frontier.com (Dave C) Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 12:16:30 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] GM rear axle C-clip removal In-Reply-To: <09.D0.02984.8E9FE815@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> References: <09.D0.02984.8E9FE815@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <518FEA8E.407@frontier.com> Sometimes you can weld a bead along the inside of the race and when it shrinks it'll shrink the race a little, enough to get it out. Or you can weld a piece of steel across the race and use that to grab on to pull it out. On 5/11/2013 7:09 PM, Randall wrote: > In the infamous words of Emily Litella, "Never mind!" > > Turns out, the LSD clutches were slightly out of place (probably caused by > yours truly initially trying to remove them) and blocking the motion of the > C-clip. A stout brass drift and BFH moved them back and it all came right > apart. > > Now all I've got to do is get that $@# race out of the housing. Last time I > wound up cutting it apart to get it out, but this one maybe isn't as bad. > > Nah, I couldn't get that lucky! > > -- Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd at frontier.com From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun May 12 16:45:33 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 15:45:33 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] GM rear axle C-clip removal In-Reply-To: <518FEA8E.407@frontier.com> Message-ID: <8F.C0.11869.28B10915@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > Sometimes you can weld a bead along the inside of the race > and when it shrinks it'll shrink the race a little, enough to > get it out. Or you can weld a piece of steel across the race > and use that to grab on to pull it out. Thanks for the suggestions. My problem wasn't so much grabbing the race, as persuading it to move afterwards. The failing bearing evidently got hot enough to spot-weld the race to the housing. But after slicing with the Dremel, I was able to break and collapse the race. Since I haven't got 220v run to the garage yet, it was definitely faster than breaking out the welder ... Not to mention less chance of setting things on fire (I'm kind of a klutz at welding) Randall From phoenix722 at comcast.net Tue May 14 17:07:23 2013 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike) Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 16:07:23 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] dead battery Message-ID: <2B5D5C3C7B7348308FCA2536BE93F932@Mike> I have a 12v car battery that is dead as a doornail because the car hasn't been run in a long time. It is also dry, or at least very low. So I filled the cells with distilled water, and hooked up the leads (the ground lead to a bolt on the engine), checked the charger to be sure it was set to 12v, and plugged it in. Ammeter goes to max, and the charger trips out. Suggestions? There is no adjustment on the charger, just plugged in or not. Mike From wmc_st at xxiii.com Tue May 14 17:31:13 2013 From: wmc_st at xxiii.com (Wayne) Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 19:31:13 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] dead battery In-Reply-To: <2B5D5C3C7B7348308FCA2536BE93F932@Mike> References: <2B5D5C3C7B7348308FCA2536BE93F932@Mike> Message-ID: <5192C941.8070603@xxiii.com> On 5/14/2013 7:07 PM, Mike wrote: > I have a 12v car battery that is dead as a doornail because the car hasn't > been run in a long time. It is also dry, or at least very low. So I filled > the cells with distilled water, and hooked up the leads (the ground lead to a > bolt on the engine), checked the charger to be sure it was set to 12v, and > plugged it in. Ammeter goes to max, and the charger trips out. Suggestions? Has it been in sub-freezing temps? As they discharge, their freeze temp rises, and a dead one will freeze, expand, and short the plates together. A lot of times the plastic housing may be bulged out from the expansion, making it obvious. -Wayne From phoenix722 at comcast.net Tue May 14 17:45:03 2013 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike) Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 16:45:03 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw: dead battery Message-ID: No. The case looks ok. In fact, it was fairly new when it was last used. ============================== > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Wayne" > To: > Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 4:31 PM > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] dead battery > > >> On 5/14/2013 7:07 PM, Mike wrote: >>> I have a 12v car battery that is dead as a doornail because the car >>> hasn't >>> been run in a long time. It is also dry, or at least very low. So I >>> filled >>> the cells with distilled water, and hooked up the leads (the ground lead >>> to a >>> bolt on the engine), checked the charger to be sure it was set to 12v, >>> and >>> plugged it in. Ammeter goes to max, and the charger trips out. >>> Suggestions? >> >> Has it been in sub-freezing temps? As they discharge, their freeze temp >> rises, and a dead one will freeze, expand, and short the plates together. >> A lot of times the plastic housing may be bulged out from the expansion, >> making it obvious. >> >> -Wayne >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/phoenix722 at comcast.net From bk13 at earthlink.net Tue May 14 18:36:16 2013 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 17:36:16 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] dead battery In-Reply-To: <2B5D5C3C7B7348308FCA2536BE93F932@Mike> References: <2B5D5C3C7B7348308FCA2536BE93F932@Mike> Message-ID: <5192D880.9020801@earthlink.net> Mike - If there is any chance it is under warranty, take it back to the battery place to see if they can charge it with their charger. I would suspect they would rather help restore the battery instead of doing a warranty replacement. I had a Sears Die Hard that was dead to me, but spent an hour on their fancy changer and worked for several more years. The battery came with my Triumph GT6, so I had no receipt, but they were helpful and friendly. They can also diagnose internal problems. Some auto parts stores will also do a free battery test, so that may be an option as well. I've had similar behavior with my charger oscillating between max and zero, but I have a 2A and 12A switch. I set it to 2A for a minute then can switch it to 12A for a few hours to charge low batteries. Also, make sure everything is off on the car. For example, if the headlights are on, as soon as you turn on the charger, they are going to draw all the power. Brian On 5/14/2013 4:07 PM, Mike wrote: > I have a 12v car battery that is dead as a doornail because the car hasn't > been run in a long time. It is also dry, or at least very low. So I filled > the cells with distilled water, and hooked up the leads (the ground lead to a > bolt on the engine), checked the charger to be sure it was set to 12v, and > plugged it in. Ammeter goes to max, and the charger trips out. Suggestions? > There is no adjustment on the charger, just plugged in or not. > > Mike > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue May 14 18:57:17 2013 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 0:57:17 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] dead battery In-Reply-To: <2B5D5C3C7B7348308FCA2536BE93F932@Mike> Message-ID: <20130515005717.CAELI.32793.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> ---- Mike wrote: > I have a 12v car battery that is dead as a doornail because the car hasn't > been run in a long time. It is also dry, or at least very low. So I filled > the cells with distilled water, and hooked up the leads (the ground lead to a > bolt on the engine), checked the charger to be sure it was set to 12v, and > plugged it in. Ammeter goes to max, and the charger trips out. Suggestions? I would try temporarily connecting it to the charger through an old headlight bulb. The bulb will probably light at first, but should go out with a few hours of charging. If it doesn't, the battery is toast. If it does, then connect the charger as usual. But my guess is that you might as well just haul the battery in to exchange for a new one. Randall From nick at landform.co.uk Wed May 15 02:25:03 2013 From: nick at landform.co.uk (nick brearley) Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 09:25:03 +0100 Subject: [Shop-talk] dead battery In-Reply-To: <2B5D5C3C7B7348308FCA2536BE93F932@Mike> References: <2B5D5C3C7B7348308FCA2536BE93F932@Mike> Message-ID: <5193465F.1060105@landform.co.uk> Mike wrote: > I have a 12v car battery that is dead as a doornail because the car hasn't > been run in a long time. It is also dry, or at least very low. So I filled > the cells with distilled water, and hooked up the leads (the ground lead to a > bolt on the engine), checked the charger to be sure it was set to 12v, and > plugged it in. Ammeter goes to max, and the charger trips out. Suggestions? > There is no adjustment on the charger, just plugged in or not. Mike, You might try seeding the battery cells with electrolyte taken from another good battery. If the battery was dry then a fill of distilled water would make the charger unable to function, some acidity is needed for the reaction to take place. I am no electrical engineer but that has helped in the past. Once the battery has taken charge a pulse charger may help to restore its condition. As Randall says you should be prepared to get a new one. It's debatable how much messing is worthwhile with a sick battery. These things always fail when they are most needed. You might check the charging rate of the car. A battery doesn't usually dry out of its own accord when left unused, although if you're from Phoenix temperature may come into play. Nick Brearley From tputland at charter.net Sun May 19 14:19:34 2013 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Sun, 19 May 2013 16:19:34 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] dual side draft weber carbs Message-ID: <141ae948.7ed110.13ebe727d8a.Webtop.46@charter.net> Can someone please tell me what cars commonly ran these carbs? I need to find detailed pictures of the linkage set up that uses the long bar across the top. Shop content....I am installin a set of these carbs on my Roadster in my shop. Thanks tim From jandkstone99 at msn.com Sun May 19 14:45:27 2013 From: jandkstone99 at msn.com (Jim Stone) Date: Sun, 19 May 2013 16:45:27 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] dual side draft weber carbs In-Reply-To: <141ae948.7ed110.13ebe727d8a.Webtop.46@charter.net> References: <141ae948.7ed110.13ebe727d8a.Webtop.46@charter.net> Message-ID: Rootes put DCOE 40's on a UK version of the fastback Sunbeam Alpine/Rapier in the early 70's. you could probably find some photos by Googling "Sunbeam H120" which was the Holbay engine designation. I know they were also used on Alfas of the same vintage. That was probably much more widely available. I had them on my Alpine for a while and loved them, but I never got them properly synchronized or jetted and gave up after about 6 months. I later realized that my manifold was defective and will one day try again. They were a blast! Sent from my iPhone On May 19, 2013, at 4:20 PM, "Tim" wrote: > Can someone please tell me what cars commonly ran these carbs? > > I need to find detailed pictures of the linkage set up that uses the > long bar across the top. > > Shop content....I am installin a set of these carbs on my Roadster in my > shop. > > Thanks > tim > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jandkstone99 at msn.com From mark at bradakis.com Sun May 19 15:01:40 2013 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 19 May 2013 15:01:40 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] dual side draft weber carbs In-Reply-To: <141ae948.7ed110.13ebe727d8a.Webtop.46@charter.net> References: <141ae948.7ed110.13ebe727d8a.Webtop.46@charter.net> Message-ID: <51993DB4.9030009@bradakis.com> Lotus used Webers or the very similar Dellorto carbs on many of their cars, such as the Elan. mjb. From ronnie.day at gmail.com Sun May 19 19:58:21 2013 From: ronnie.day at gmail.com (Ronnie Day) Date: Sun, 19 May 2013 20:58:21 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] dual side draft weber carbs In-Reply-To: <51993DB4.9030009@bradakis.com> References: <141ae948.7ed110.13ebe727d8a.Webtop.46@charter.net> <51993DB4.9030009@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Check out Pierce Manifolds (http://www.piercemanifolds.com/) for pretty much anything Weber related. On Sun, May 19, 2013 at 4:01 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > Lotus used Webers or the very similar Dellorto carbs on many of their cars, > such as the Elan. > > mjb. > > ______________________________**_________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/shop-talk/ronnie.day@**gmail.com From ejrussell at mebtel.net Mon May 20 04:34:54 2013 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell) Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 06:34:54 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Rock 1, Mower 0 ? Message-ID: <83A969DFA3194574BDC5424F73A2F105@EricJRussellPC> Hit a large rock the lawn mower. (Briggs & Stratton engine in a Craftsman push mower) Bent the blade & sheared the key in the 'blade adapter'. The flywheel key is intact. With the blade & spark plug removed I can manually turn the engine but it feels like there are two unequally spaced tight areas with each revolution. The engine will run but it knocks & doesn't run at full speed. It is old enough that I don't want to bother wasting money on it (like a new blade adapter & blade) if it is likely fatally damaged. I assume the blade has some balancing/flywheel affect but shouldn't the engine manually rotate 360 degrees smoothly without the blade? Ideas? Eric Russell Mebane, NC From fishplate at gmail.com Mon May 20 05:45:44 2013 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 07:45:44 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Rock 1, Mower 0 ? In-Reply-To: <83A969DFA3194574BDC5424F73A2F105@EricJRussellPC> References: <83A969DFA3194574BDC5424F73A2F105@EricJRussellPC> Message-ID: On Mon, May 20, 2013 at 6:34 AM, Eric J Russell wrote: > shouldn't the engine manually rotate 360 > degrees smoothly without the blade? With the plug out, I would think so. I recall that there's a large counterweight inside the motor that could have become dislodged...could be what you're feeling. It's fun and educational to take one apart, and they are pretty simple. You have nothing to lose but an hour or so, and it might be repairable. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From greg at gelhar.com Mon May 20 06:54:17 2013 From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com) Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 08:54:17 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Rock 1, Mower 0 ? In-Reply-To: <83A969DFA3194574BDC5424F73A2F105@EricJRussellPC> References: <83A969DFA3194574BDC5424F73A2F105@EricJRussellPC> Message-ID: > Hit a large rock the lawn mower. (Briggs & Stratton engine in a Craftsman > (snip) > I assume the blade has some balancing/flywheel affect but shouldn't the > engine manually rotate 360 degrees smoothly without the blade? > > Ideas? > Depending on how hard those tight spots are, you might only be feeling the cam lobes against the valve springs. Greg G. Osseo, MN From pat at hornesystemstx.com Mon May 20 07:49:47 2013 From: pat at hornesystemstx.com (Pat Horne) Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 08:49:47 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Rock 1, Mower 0 ? In-Reply-To: <83A969DFA3194574BDC5424F73A2F105@EricJRussellPC> References: <83A969DFA3194574BDC5424F73A2F105@EricJRussellPC> Message-ID: <519A29FB.7000404@hornesystemstx.com> Thusly spake Eric J Russell Years ago I did the same with a B&S mower. The end of the crank where the blade attached had about 1/8" run out, so I figured the engine was toast. Just for grins I tried to straighten the crank by using a suitable pipe to bend it back onto line. It worked, and I used that mower for several years until I moved and didn't take it with me. I know it can be unsafe, but it worked and didn't cost anything! Running the engine without the blade doesn't always work because the blade acts as a flywheel. Running without the blade makes the engine speed changes faster than the governor can respond. This might be what's happening when the engine doesn't rev correctly. You might be able to hold the throttle linkage between the governor and the carb so that it revs up more. Peace, Pat > Hit a large rock the lawn mower. (Briggs & Stratton engine in a Craftsman push > mower) Bent the blade & sheared the key in the 'blade adapter'. The flywheel > key is intact. With the blade & spark plug removed I can manually turn the > engine but it feels like there are two unequally spaced tight areas with each > revolution. The engine will run but it knocks & doesn't run at full speed. > > It is old enough that I don't want to bother wasting money on it (like a new > blade adapter & blade) if it is likely fatally damaged. I assume the blade has > some balancing/flywheel affect but shouldn't the engine manually rotate 360 > degrees smoothly without the blade? > > Ideas? > > Eric Russell > Mebane, NC > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat at hornesystemstx.com > > > -- Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems (512) 797-7501 Voice & Text 5026 FM 2001 Pat at HorneSystemsTx.com Lockhart, TX 78644-4443 www.hornesystemstx.com -- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT -- From bk13 at earthlink.net Mon May 20 16:49:08 2013 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 15:49:08 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Rock 1, Mower 0 ? In-Reply-To: <83A969DFA3194574BDC5424F73A2F105@EricJRussellPC> References: <83A969DFA3194574BDC5424F73A2F105@EricJRussellPC> Message-ID: <519AA864.1050807@earthlink.net> Eric - Are you trying to run it without the blade? If so, that might be part of the problem. Check the blade for balance on a nail and it it is close, get a new shear key and put it back together to see how it runs. If the blade is badly bent, don't cut anything. If it runs normal, go for the new blade. If it is bad, you can play with it in the shop or move on to a new mower and just be out the cost of the shear key. I hit a small stump in leaves decades ago and broke the shear key. I replaced it and sharpened/balanced the blade and used the mower for a bunch of years. Also check the bolts mounting the engine to the deck, but if the shear key worked, everything above it should be fine. Brian On 5/20/2013 3:34 AM, Eric J Russell wrote: > Hit a large rock the lawn mower. (Briggs & Stratton engine in a Craftsman push > mower) Bent the blade & sheared the key in the 'blade adapter'. The flywheel > key is intact. With the blade & spark plug removed I can manually turn the > engine but it feels like there are two unequally spaced tight areas with each > revolution. The engine will run but it knocks & doesn't run at full speed. > > It is old enough that I don't want to bother wasting money on it (like a new > blade adapter & blade) if it is likely fatally damaged. I assume the blade has > some balancing/flywheel affect but shouldn't the engine manually rotate 360 > degrees smoothly without the blade? > > Ideas? > > Eric Russell > Mebane, NC > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net From ejrussell at mebtel.net Mon May 20 19:42:18 2013 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell) Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 21:42:18 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Rock 1, Mower 0 ? In-Reply-To: <83A969DFA3194574BDC5424F73A2F105@EricJRussellPC> References: <83A969DFA3194574BDC5424F73A2F105@EricJRussellPC> Message-ID: > Hit a large rock the lawn mower. Thanks for the many replies. To answer the questions/suggestions raised - the spark plug was out when I turned the engine by hand. The resistance I feel might be the valve springs. It seems the consensus is to try either a new blade or at least a roughly straightened/balanced old blade and see how it runs. The key in the blade adapter is (was) integral to the part. It is an aluminum part with the 'key' punched in from the side. I might try just bolting it together (without a functioning key) to see if it runs better with the blade. I saw this on You Tube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wjSZu2hlmsk I do have an assortment of hammers... Eric Russell Mebane, NC From cavanadd at frontier.com Mon May 20 20:23:52 2013 From: cavanadd at frontier.com (Dave C) Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 19:23:52 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Rock 1, Mower 0 ? In-Reply-To: References: <83A969DFA3194574BDC5424F73A2F105@EricJRussellPC> Message-ID: <519ADAB8.4050305@frontier.com> Sorry for the late reply. I made a "ditch mower" to run on an outrigger bolted to my tractor bucket. It was essentially just a mower deck and motor bolted to a long arm. I used it a couple of summers then hit a big rock. I was able to straighten everything out and get it to run again but the crank runout and vibration wallowed out the main seal in pretty short order and all the oil ran out. That pretty much killed it for good. I'm going to make another one some day, and use heavy duty nylon strings or rods instead of a solid blade, like a ho-made DR Mower. I may even just buy a DR Mower head and work back from there. On 5/20/2013 6:42 PM, Eric J Russell wrote: >> Hit a large rock the lawn mower. > > Thanks for the many replies. > > To answer the questions/suggestions raised - the spark plug was out > when I turned the engine by hand. The resistance I feel might be the > valve springs. It seems the consensus is to try either a new blade or > at least a roughly straightened/balanced old blade and see how it > runs. The key in the blade adapter is (was) integral to the part. It > is an aluminum part with the 'key' punched in from the side. I might > try just bolting it together (without a functioning key) to see if it > runs better with the blade. > > I saw this on You Tube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wjSZu2hlmsk I > do have an assortment of hammers... > > Eric Russell > Mebane, NC _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd at frontier.com From wmc_st at xxiii.com Tue May 21 06:35:06 2013 From: wmc_st at xxiii.com (Wayne) Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 08:35:06 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Garage Door Screen Message-ID: <519B69FA.4060901@xxiii.com> Hey Guys -- have a slightly weird question. Does anyone know of a screen or similar cover for an overhead garage door? I like leaving my door up during the day, just for ventilation and heat. It's a basement, partially sub-grade, style and gets damp and chilly otherwise. If I'm working, the outside light, fresh air, spaciousness, etc are nice. But, birds flying in and crapping or nesting on stuff, bugs, other pests, etc, make it impractical. Just like an un-screened open window in the house would. Anyone know of commercial products like an overhead pull-down screening system or something? -Thanks, Wayne From darrellw360 at mac.com Tue May 21 06:56:29 2013 From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 05:56:29 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Garage Door Screen In-Reply-To: <519B69FA.4060901@xxiii.com> References: <519B69FA.4060901@xxiii.com> Message-ID: Lots of hits googling "garage door screen", including Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/double-garage-door-screen-68310.html -Darrell From bob at texmog.com Tue May 21 08:41:47 2013 From: bob at texmog.com (Texmog) Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 09:41:47 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Garage Door Screen In-Reply-To: <519B69FA.4060901@xxiii.com> References: <519B69FA.4060901@xxiii.com> Message-ID: <64D51E6A-E9E3-4A5E-9F26-C4A807FB6A63@texmog.com> I have the one from HF. Basically cloth screen hooks to header and Velcro to the sides with weight on base. Works well but I only use it a a few weeks a year between heating and a/c seasons. I would not expect it to last much more than a year if used daily. Bob On May 21, 2013, at 7:35 AM, Wayne wrote: > Hey Guys -- have a slightly weird question. Does anyone know of a screen or similar cover for an overhead garage door? > > I like leaving my door up during the day, just for ventilation and heat. It's a basement, partially sub-grade, style and gets damp and chilly otherwise. If I'm working, the outside light, fresh air, spaciousness, etc are nice. > > But, birds flying in and crapping or nesting on stuff, bugs, other pests, etc, make it impractical. Just like an un-screened open window in the house would. Anyone know of commercial products like an overhead pull-down screening system or something? > > -Thanks, Wayne > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bob at texmog.com From jniolon at att.net Wed May 22 12:30:02 2013 From: jniolon at att.net (John Niolon) Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 13:30:02 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] connectors on SS cable (swaging) Message-ID: <57F633545D79471898184EA209F7CED8@john5043a2d406> I'd like to use some SS cable to secure some equipment on a trailer... I find the cable and the connectors at Lowes, etc but have to pay 20-40 bucks for a swaging tool I'll probably only use once or twice... does anyone make a swage'er that will work on a vise or something like the crimper for copper welding cable connectors ??? homebrew ways to do this and have it hold ???? tia John Many people are alive only because it's illegal to shoot them. From jniolon at att.net Wed May 22 14:14:56 2013 From: jniolon at att.net (John Niolon) Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 15:14:56 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] connectors on SS cable (swaging) References: <57F633545D79471898184EA209F7CED8@john5043a2d406> <519D2139.5060609@brit.ca> Message-ID: <4BDFAB3B593B45B6BA2EB947C9F20B22@john5043a2d406> good one Tervor.... google says the nearest Chandlery store is 300 miles away... I'm in the middle of Alabama :-) guess I could try boat yards around town... ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "John Niolon" Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 2:49 PM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] connectors on SS cable (swaging) > On 22/05/2013 2:30 PM, John Niolon wrote: >> I'd like to use some SS cable to secure some equipment on a trailer... I >> find >> the cable and the connectors at Lowes, etc but have to pay 20-40 bucks >> for a >> swaging tool I'll probably only use once or twice... does anyone make a >> swage'er that will work on a vise or something like the crimper for >> copper >> welding cable connectors ??? homebrew ways to do this and have it hold >> ???? >> >> > These are problems sailors deal with all the time, find a chandlery > store. > > (although $40 in a boat store is like the door fee) From jem at milleredp.com Wed May 22 14:23:09 2013 From: jem at milleredp.com (John Miller) Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 13:23:09 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] connectors on SS cable (swaging) In-Reply-To: <4BDFAB3B593B45B6BA2EB947C9F20B22@john5043a2d406> References: <57F633545D79471898184EA209F7CED8@john5043a2d406> <519D2139.5060609@brit.ca> <4BDFAB3B593B45B6BA2EB947C9F20B22@john5043a2d406> Message-ID: <519D292D.2020304@milleredp.com> On 5/22/2013 1:14 PM, John Niolon wrote: > good one Tervor.... google says the nearest Chandlery store is 300 miles > away... I'm in the middle of Alabama :-) guess I could try boat yards > around town... The cheap swaging tools are a couple pieces of steel bar with half a hole in each one where they mate and a couple bolts to pull them together. I had one and made more use of it than I expected, until the bolts stripped, and after I replaced the bolts the holes eventually stripped out too... Now I've got one of these and while the AWG gauge sizes on the dies are a joke it does work well if you eyeball the dies you need instead, and it'll crimp 6AWG and larger wire terminals/battery cables quite nicely as well as swaging wire-rope type sleeves. John. From jem at milleredp.com Wed May 22 14:27:07 2013 From: jem at milleredp.com (John Miller) Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 13:27:07 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] connectors on SS cable (swaging) In-Reply-To: <519D292D.2020304@milleredp.com> References: <57F633545D79471898184EA209F7CED8@john5043a2d406> <519D2139.5060609@brit.ca> <4BDFAB3B593B45B6BA2EB947C9F20B22@john5043a2d406> <519D292D.2020304@milleredp.com> Message-ID: <519D2A1B.3080500@milleredp.com> > Now I've got one of these Oops, missed the link: http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html John. From jniolon at att.net Wed May 22 14:52:38 2013 From: jniolon at att.net (John Niolon) Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 15:52:38 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw: connectors on SS cable (swaging) Message-ID: <4286F50965754810BD4F5ECB7E420C21@john5043a2d406> ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Niolon" To: "John Miller" Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 3:52 PM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] connectors on SS cable (swaging) > That's what I"m trying to avoid.... spending extra bucks on a tool I'll > never use again (probably) > > I have one of these > > http://compare.ebay.com/like/190804636162?_lwgsi=y<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar > for welding cables > I wonder how it would work on those Alum crimp type or oval compression > sleeves... ??? > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Miller" > To: > Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 3:27 PM > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] connectors on SS cable (swaging) > > >>> Now I've got one of these >> >> Oops, missed the link: >> >> http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html >> >> John. >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jniolon at att.net From mark at nashvilletn.org Wed May 22 16:16:47 2013 From: mark at nashvilletn.org (Mark) Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 17:16:47 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw: connectors on SS cable (swaging) References: <4286F50965754810BD4F5ECB7E420C21@john5043a2d406> Message-ID: What about wire clips? http://www.mcmaster.com/#saddle-clips/=mv63h8 From ejrussell at mebtel.net Wed May 22 18:29:06 2013 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell) Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 20:29:06 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] BFH ! (was: Rock 1, Mower 0 ?) In-Reply-To: References: <83A969DFA3194574BDC5424F73A2F105@EricJRussellPC> Message-ID: For $20 I bought a new blade adapter & blade. Before installing them I propped the mower up on its side and used the Redneck Dial Indicator (tm) to check for run out of the crankshaft under the mower's deck. (I clamped a scrap piece of wood across the bottom of the mower and a second cut off aimed at the crankshaft's end.) With the spark plug removed & turning the engine by hand I could see the shaft wobble by ~ 1/8". I next tried a length of pipe as a lever to try to move it back into place.My pipe was only about 18" long and didn't give much leverage. Figuring I had little to lose, I marked the wobble with some chalk and positioned the shaft so I could whack it with a BFH. A few moderate whacks didn't do anything. A more forceful whack did the deed! No more wobble and I noticed the engine seemed to turn easier. (I do think the resistance I do feel is the camshaft operating the valves.) I then installed the new blade adapter & blade and started it up. It ran fine, no smoke, no vibrations or bad noises. When I shut it off it coasted to a stop like usual - vs the sudden stop when I ran it a few days ago without a blade attached. Eric Russell Mebane, NC ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric J Russell" To: "Eric J Russell" ; "shop-talk" Sent: Monday, May 20, 2013 9:42 PM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Rock 1, Mower 0 ? >> Hit a large rock the lawn mower. > > Thanks for the many replies. > > To answer the questions/suggestions raised - the spark plug was out when I > turned the engine by hand. The resistance I feel might be the valve > springs. It seems the consensus is to try either a new blade or at least a > roughly straightened/balanced old blade and see how it runs. The key in > the blade adapter is (was) integral to the part. It is an aluminum part > with the 'key' punched in from the side. I might try just bolting it > together (without a functioning key) to see if it runs better with the > blade. > > I saw this on You Tube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wjSZu2hlmsk I do > have an assortment of hammers... > > Eric Russell > Mebane, NC From bk13 at earthlink.net Wed May 22 19:09:31 2013 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 18:09:31 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] connectors on SS cable (swaging) In-Reply-To: <57F633545D79471898184EA209F7CED8@john5043a2d406> References: <57F633545D79471898184EA209F7CED8@john5043a2d406> Message-ID: <519D6C4B.4090806@earthlink.net> Search for "wire rope clip" at Home Depot or Lowes for a u-bolt type clamp. In one application, I cut the bolts then wrapped it a bunch in electrical tape so it wouldn't scratch me. I also used some 1/8" cable to make a lock for my kayak on the roof rack and just used a 3lb sledge hammer on the sidewalk. That one I covered in heat shrink tubing. Brian On 5/22/2013 11:30 AM, John Niolon wrote: > I'd like to use some SS cable to secure some equipment on a trailer... I find > the cable and the connectors at Lowes, etc but have to pay 20-40 bucks for a > swaging tool I'll probably only use once or twice... does anyone make a > swage'er that will work on a vise or something like the crimper for copper > welding cable connectors ??? homebrew ways to do this and have it hold ???? > > tia > John > > > > Many people are alive only because it's illegal to shoot them. > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net From ejrussell at mebtel.net Wed May 22 19:16:49 2013 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell) Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 21:16:49 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] connectors on SS cable (swaging) In-Reply-To: <519D6C4B.4090806@earthlink.net> References: <57F633545D79471898184EA209F7CED8@john5043a2d406> <519D6C4B.4090806@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <073905522F444088B70CC8FF78019DFA@EricJRussellPC> I see lots of places that advertise custom-made hydraulic hoses. Would they have the equipment to swage the wire cable? Eric Russell Mebane, NC > > On 5/22/2013 11:30 AM, John Niolon wrote: >> I'd like to use some SS cable to secure some equipment on a trailer... I >> find >> the cable and the connectors at Lowes, etc but have to pay 20-40 bucks >> for a >> swaging tool I'll probably only use once or twice... does anyone make a >> swage'er that will work on a vise or something like the crimper for >> copper >> welding cable connectors ??? homebrew ways to do this and have it hold >> ???? From KVacek at Ameritech.net Wed May 22 20:38:12 2013 From: KVacek at Ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 21:38:12 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] connectors on SS cable (swaging) In-Reply-To: <073905522F444088B70CC8FF78019DFA@EricJRussellPC> References: <57F633545D79471898184EA209F7CED8@john5043a2d406> <519D6C4B.4090806@earthlink.net> <073905522F444088B70CC8FF78019DFA@EricJRussellPC> Message-ID: <007c01ce575e$91e661a0$b5b324e0$@Ameritech.net> Try the shop at a small airport - they swage cables all the time. > On 5/22/2013 11:30 AM, John Niolon wrote: >> I'd like to use some SS cable to secure some equipment on a >> trailer... I find the cable and the connectors at Lowes, etc but >> have to pay 20-40 bucks for a swaging tool I'll probably only use >> once or twice... does anyone make a swage'er that will work on a vise >> or something like the crimper for copper welding cable connectors ??? >> homebrew ways to do this and have it hold ???? From fishplate at gmail.com Thu May 23 07:49:03 2013 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 09:49:03 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Whole-house surge protection Message-ID: A cow-orker with a new house asked me about whole-house surge protection. Where I live, the local member-owned electric utility sells protection for large appliances and motors as a device in the meter base. They charge $6.50 a month for this service. As I understand it, you're basically buying insurance, as they repair any damage due to surges with this service. I see you can purchase a similar device at the local big box for around $200. The claim is that it offers surge protection similar to a plug-in device, but also covers connected equipment. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-by-Schneider-Electric-SurgeBreaker-Plus-Whole-House-Secondary-Surge-Protective-Device-SDSB1175C/100127248#.UZ4bKsqOBhc In my neighborhood, all the utilities are underground. In 17 years, I've not experienced anything that would require use of a whole-house device, despite some really exciting electrical storms. All of my electronics are plugged into normal surge suppressors, but no problems with them or the larger things so far. Any of you guys have any experience or advice concerning this sort of thing? Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org Thu May 23 08:01:40 2013 From: shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org (Ian McFetridge) Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 10:01:40 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Whole-house surge protection In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I had one on a house (builder installed) and I don't believe it ever did anything in the five years we lived there. I don't think I would get one in your situation. As I recall, it only protects from spikes coming off of the street and not if your house is hit. The house we live in now has above ground lines on the street and to the house. I probably would get one if we weren't planning to move soon. On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 9:49 AM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > A cow-orker with a new house asked me about whole-house surge > protection. Where I live, the local member-owned electric utility > sells protection for large appliances and motors as a device in the > meter base. They charge $6.50 a month for this service. As I > understand it, you're basically buying insurance, as they repair any > damage due to surges with this service. > > I see you can purchase a similar device at the local big box for > around $200. The claim is that it offers surge protection similar to > a plug-in device, but also covers connected equipment. > > > http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-by-Schneider-Electric-SurgeBreaker-Plus-Whole-House-Secondary-Surge-Protective-Device-SDSB1175C/100127248#.UZ4bKsqOBhc > > In my neighborhood, all the utilities are underground. In 17 years, > I've not experienced anything that would require use of a whole-house > device, despite some really exciting electrical storms. All of my > electronics are plugged into normal surge suppressors, but no problems > with them or the larger things so far. > > Any of you guys have any experience or advice concerning this sort of > thing? > > Jeff Scarbrough > Corrosion Acres, Ga. > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org From tputland at charter.net Thu May 23 08:19:12 2013 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 10:19:12 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Whole-house surge protection Message-ID: <716d1e7e.80c2d2.13ed1c201aa.Webtop.45@charter.net> " As I recall, it only protects from spikes coming off of the street and not if your house is hit. " I was under the impression (from what I've seen on TV and also read) that the whole-house protectors that are wired into your breaker box are meant to protect your electical wiring from lightning strikes. Is this not true? electrically challenged tim On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 9:01 AM, Ian McFetridge wrote: > I had one on a house (builder installed) and I don't believe it ever > did > anything in the five years we lived there. I don't think I would get > one > in your situation. As I recall, it only protects from spikes coming > off of > the street and not if your house is hit. The house we live in now has > above ground lines on the street and to the house. I probably would > get > one if we weren't planning to move soon. > > > On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 9:49 AM, Jeff Scarbrough > wrote: > >> A cow-orker with a new house asked me about whole-house surge >> protection. Where I live, the local member-owned electric utility >> sells protection for large appliances and motors as a device in the >> meter base. They charge $6.50 a month for this service. As I >> understand it, you're basically buying insurance, as they repair any >> damage due to surges with this service. >> >> I see you can purchase a similar device at the local big box for >> around $200. The claim is that it offers surge protection similar to >> a plug-in device, but also covers connected equipment. >> >> >> >> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-by-Schneider-Electric-SurgeBreaker-Plus-Whole-House-Secondary-Surge-Protective-Device-SDSB1175C/100127248#.UZ4bKsqOBhc >> >> In my neighborhood, all the utilities are underground. In 17 years, >> I've not experienced anything that would require use of a whole-house >> device, despite some really exciting electrical storms. All of my >> electronics are plugged into normal surge suppressors, but no >> problems >> with them or the larger things so far. >> >> Any of you guys have any experience or advice concerning this sort of >> thing? >> >> Jeff Scarbrough >> Corrosion Acres, Ga. From shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org Thu May 23 08:32:10 2013 From: shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org (Ian McFetridge) Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 10:32:10 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Whole-house surge protection In-Reply-To: <716d1e7e.80c2d2.13ed1c201aa.Webtop.45@charter.net> References: <716d1e7e.80c2d2.13ed1c201aa.Webtop.45@charter.net> Message-ID: Maybe it depends how it is installed. Ours was on the main line coming from the street (essentially like the main on/off breaker). My thought was that if lightning hits my attic fan, goes down those wires to the panel, it will electrify every circuit on that bank. I think you would need to have it somehow filtering every circuit to truly protect from lightning going from one circuit to the other--ours did not do this. By design, I think the SS only protected against lighting spikes coming in from the street (e.g., transformer or neighbor, etc.) or entering through the meter on the side of the house. Caveat: I'm not an electrician either. On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 10:19 AM, Tim wrote: > " As I recall, it only protects from spikes coming off of the street and > not if your house is hit. " > > I was under the impression (from what I've seen on TV and also read) that > the whole-house protectors that are wired into your breaker box are meant > to protect your electical wiring from lightning strikes. > > Is this not true? > > electrically challenged > tim > > > > On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 9:01 AM, Ian McFetridge wrote: > > I had one on a house (builder installed) and I don't believe it ever did >> anything in the five years we lived there. I don't think I would get one >> in your situation. As I recall, it only protects from spikes coming off >> of >> the street and not if your house is hit. The house we live in now has >> above ground lines on the street and to the house. I probably would get >> one if we weren't planning to move soon. >> >> >> On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 9:49 AM, Jeff Scarbrough > >wrote: >> >> A cow-orker with a new house asked me about whole-house surge >>> protection. Where I live, the local member-owned electric utility >>> sells protection for large appliances and motors as a device in the >>> meter base. They charge $6.50 a month for this service. As I >>> understand it, you're basically buying insurance, as they repair any >>> damage due to surges with this service. >>> >>> I see you can purchase a similar device at the local big box for >>> around $200. The claim is that it offers surge protection similar to >>> a plug-in device, but also covers connected equipment. >>> >>> >>> >>> http://www.homedepot.com/p/**Square-D-by-Schneider-** >>> Electric-SurgeBreaker-Plus-**Whole-House-Secondary-Surge-** >>> Protective-Device-SDSB1175C/**100127248#.UZ4bKsqOBhc >>> >>> In my neighborhood, all the utilities are underground. In 17 years, >>> I've not experienced anything that would require use of a whole-house >>> device, despite some really exciting electrical storms. All of my >>> electronics are plugged into normal surge suppressors, but no problems >>> with them or the larger things so far. >>> >>> Any of you guys have any experience or advice concerning this sort of >>> thing? >>> >>> Jeff Scarbrough >>> Corrosion Acres, Ga. >>> >> ______________________________**_________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/shop-talk/shop-talk2@**mcfetridge.org From jblair1948 at cox.net Thu May 23 08:47:14 2013 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 10:47:14 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Whole-house surge protection Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20130523104708.04cc3710@cox.net> At 09:49 AM 5/23/2013, you wrote: >A cow-orker with a new house asked me about whole-house surge protection...... >I see you can purchase a similar device at the local big box for around $200.... >http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-by-Schneider-Electric-SurgeBreaker-Plus-Whole-House-Secondary-Surge-Protective-Device-SDSB1175C/100127248#.UZ4bKsqOBhc >In my neighborhood, all the utilities are underground. In 17 years, I've not >experienced anything that would require use of a whole-house device, despite >some really exciting electrical storms. All of my electronics are plugged into >normal surge suppressors, but no problems with them or the larger things so far. >Any of you guys have any experience or advice concerning this sort of thing? Jeff, Like you said, "you're basically buying insurance, as they repair any damage due to surges with this service". So how luck do you feel. In my neighborhood, our utilities are also run under ground and we don't seem to have the problems with loosing power that the areas with above ground utilities do. That being said, during where does the lightening go? 2 places cloud to cloud and cloud to ground. It's that ground problem that causes problems. If you take a strike close enough to an underground wire, it will induce some of it's energy into the wire and you will have a surge. In the 30 yrs that I've lived in this house, we had only taken 2 lightening strike close enough to cause any damage. The first one was picked up by the underground power line. We lost a couple of clock radios, a cordless telephone base and some other inexpensive items. However, some of my neighbors were not that lucky. They lost TV, VCRs, etc. Some had over a couple thousand dollars of damage. During another lightening storm, we took a strike to the back yard. But the energy was picked up by the wires connecting my dvd player to my TV and blew out that input channel on the TV. Luckly that was all the damage we received that time. Oh, and I don't not have any surge supressors. My dad lives in an that has above ground lines and looses power all the time. In the 57 yrs he's lived there, he has only had 1 time (after Hurricane Isabelle when he was without power for over 3 weeks) that he's had problems. When the power came back on, the surge blew up a TV, radio, messed up his heat/ac unit, cordless phones, and more. He also doesn't have any surge protectors on anything. When we get a bad lightening storm, I will unplug a lot of the electronics from the wall, and disconnect various interconnecting cables, and disconnect the cable feed to my modem for the internet. Again, it's a gamble. How much are you willing to loose? To me, it's too easy to disconnect things like my computer and some of my radio equipment and flat screen TV for 1/2 hr or so untill the storm passes and not worry about the surge protectors. Also a battery back (ups) for your computer is a good surge protector. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy: e pluribus Unum, "from many, one." In God We Trust Liberty - the power of choosing, thinking, and acting for oneself; freedom from control or restriction From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Thu May 23 10:13:02 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 09:13:02 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Whole-house surge protection In-Reply-To: <716d1e7e.80c2d2.13ed1c201aa.Webtop.45@charter.net> Message-ID: <9E.C1.02984.9004E915@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > I was under the impression (from what I've seen on TV and > also read) that the whole-house protectors that are wired > into your breaker box are meant to protect your electical > wiring from lightning strikes. > > Is this not true? If the lightning strikes your house directly, there isn't much that any device can do about it. Your best chance against a direct strike is an old-fashioned lightning rod (or better yet rods) to keep the lightning outside the house. A strike outside the house probably isn't going to damage the wiring itself, but can induce high voltage spikes that may damage equipment connected to the wiring. A good protector on every wire that enters the house (not just power line but TV cable/antenna, telephone, etc.) can offer some protection against that. -- Randall From bk13 at earthlink.net Thu May 23 16:47:53 2013 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 15:47:53 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Whole-house surge protection In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <519E9C99.3080403@earthlink.net> Jeff - Home Depot also has a smaller, cheaper product from Square D. See www.homedepot.com/p/t/203540660?productId=203540660 You add a 220 breaker and connect the device to your circuits. In theory, when there is a spike, they clamp it down. The good ones have an indicator light to say they are still good. I will be adding one of these products as soon as I add a sub panel to make room. My panel is in the outside wall of the house, typical in Southern California, so I am limited to what actually fits inside the breaker box. We've had several power problems due to an old distribution system. I lost a computer and UPS in 2010. I had friends 1/4 mile away loose most of their appliances when a transformer presented a light show. None of these are likely to save you if lightning hits the house, but any should provide added protection if a local transformer fails or someone drives into one of the ground level electrical distribution boxes along the street. For many of us, our most expensive electrical devices are probably the kitchen appliances and entertainment centers. While you can unplug the fridge if a storm is coming, you are not likely to go down and switch off the breaker for the hardwired stove/oven. For a freak event, you are not going to be able to take precautions, so a device like these should be an extra level of protection. Brian On 5/23/2013 6:49 AM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > A cow-orker with a new house asked me about whole-house surge > protection. Where I live, the local member-owned electric utility > sells protection for large appliances and motors as a device in the > meter base. They charge $6.50 a month for this service. As I > understand it, you're basically buying insurance, as they repair any > damage due to surges with this service. > > I see you can purchase a similar device at the local big box for > around $200. The claim is that it offers surge protection similar to > a plug-in device, but also covers connected equipment. > > http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-by-Schneider-Electric-SurgeBreaker-Plus-Whole-House-Secondary-Surge-Protective-Device-SDSB1175C/100127248#.UZ4bKsqOBhc > > In my neighborhood, all the utilities are underground. In 17 years, > I've not experienced anything that would require use of a whole-house > device, despite some really exciting electrical storms. All of my > electronics are plugged into normal surge suppressors, but no problems > with them or the larger things so far. > > Any of you guys have any experience or advice concerning this sort of thing? > > Jeff Scarbrough > Corrosion Acres, Ga. > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net From Bob at texmog.com Sat May 25 07:29:43 2013 From: Bob at texmog.com (Bob Nogueira) Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 08:29:43 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Auction Message-ID: For anyone in the Dallas Fort Worth area, they are auctioning off a host of tools and fixtures from the American Airlines Maintenance Center ( which is being closed) at Alliance airport. Lots of great tools listed from 6 inch Beverly Shears to a DC 10 trunnion pin puller. Auction is next Friday and Saturday. Great chance for you to get a Data Device Corp Mdl SIM-31200 Synchrol/Resolver Simulator to replace that cheap Harbor Freight Synchrol/Resolve Simulator you have in you garage :) See list of. Stuff here : http://www.starmanauctions.com/Past%20Auction/AMERICAN%20AIRLINES-2013/SALE%2 0BILL.AMERICAN%20AIRLINES%205.31.13.pdf The tiny URL is. : http://tinyurl.com/oejrc9n Bob Nogueira ( who has no financial interest in AA, Starman auctions or the federal bankruptcy court) From doug at dougbraun.com Sat May 25 09:30:47 2013 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 11:30:47 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Auction In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: They have "veneer calipers" for sale... Doug From fishplate at gmail.com Sat May 25 12:27:17 2013 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 14:27:17 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Auction In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Sat, May 25, 2013 at 11:30 AM, Doug Braun wrote: > They have "veneer calipers" for sale... I guess they don't open very wide. From mark at bradakis.com Sat May 25 14:14:32 2013 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 14:14:32 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] A bit behind... Message-ID: <51A11BA8.9090403@bradakis.com> Finally getting around to sending out some Thank You notes to folks who donated during the Team.Net spring fund drive. Only about a month and a half behind. I guess it is a good way to spend Decoration Day weekend. mjb. From gsteve at hammatt.com Mon May 27 18:03:48 2013 From: gsteve at hammatt.com (Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA) Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 17:03:48 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Somebody will know...... Message-ID: <88699218FC914B06A43FAFDF39C9AFF6@StevePC> Ibm looking to use an inexpensive router and table for an ongoing project. I need to burnish leather using a rotary burnishing tool. This will look similar to edging a piece of wood, but instead of removing wood to form the edge, Ibll be using a turned hardwood piece mounted on a shaft to then run the leather past the polishing surface. This will burnish or bslick downb the edge of the thick (1/4b b 3/8b thick) piece of leather. Here are my questions: 1. My burnishing tool is mounted on a 3/8b diameter shank (most router tools are 1/4b or 1/2b). Ibm pretty sure reducing collars are available. 2. My maximum rotary speed will be in the 1000 to 1100 rpm range. Much slower than a typical router. Any suggestions? Ibve started trolling Craigslist and eBay, but if there are some specifics models to look for, it would be helpful. Thanks. Steve Hammatt (Mount Vernon, home of the closed I-5 freeway) Mount Vernon WA USA From ejrussell at mebtel.net Mon May 27 18:25:14 2013 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell) Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 20:25:14 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Somebody will know...... In-Reply-To: <88699218FC914B06A43FAFDF39C9AFF6@StevePC> References: <88699218FC914B06A43FAFDF39C9AFF6@StevePC> Message-ID: There are 3/8" collets for woodworking routers but they are not common (might be hard to find and might not be cheap). There are variable speed routers or controllers you'd plug the router in to that can vary the speed. But it seems like even a cheap router would be over-kill for the task. Why not set up a variable speed drill motor or a drill press with a table/guide for the leather? Eric Russell Mebane, NC ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" To: "Shop Talk" Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 8:03 PM Subject: [Shop-talk] Somebody will know...... > Ibm looking to use an inexpensive router and table for > an ongoing project. I need to burnish leather using a > rotary burnishing tool. > Here are my questions: > 1. My burnishing tool is mounted on a 3/8b diameter > shank (most router tools are 1/4b or 1/2b ). Ibm pretty > sure reducing collars are available. > 2. My maximum rotary speed will be in the 1000 to > 1100 rpm range. Much slower than a typical router. From eric at megageek.com Tue May 28 05:34:29 2013 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 07:34:29 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dishwashers in the garage Message-ID: This weekend, I installed a dishwasher in my shop. I have a few questions for those of you with experience with them... First, will normal dishwasher soap hurt engine parts, bare metals, etc? Next, is there a soap that I should use that will not hurt the dishwasher? Finally, are there things that should NOT go in there? Thanks. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson From mbarre at juno.com Tue May 28 07:16:22 2013 From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 13:16:22 GMT Subject: [Shop-talk] Dishwashers in the garage Message-ID: <20130528.091622.10290.0@webmail12.vgs.untd.com> Inch,What a smart idea.I recall seeing a mechanics show where they put an old nasty transmission in a big parts washer and thought, "that would be nice to have"You seem to routinely come up with innovative moves - and around here old (not pretty but functional) dishwashers are on Craigs every week for next to nothing. DId the sailboat/ebay play work out OK?Hopefully much easier than chopping it up and more enviro friendly than burning!Some neighbors had a similar situation - an original owner boat that the wife had grown up with but had seen better days and had been a long time on the trailer.IT was a win win, they got rid of it, got a small amount of $$, and the buyer was happy with his bargain. The buyer seemed to know what he was doing as he showed up with new tires and took it straight to a trailer shop for repack & brake check... AGE RES PROPRIAS TUAS ---------- Original Message ---------- From: eric at megageek.com To: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net Subject: [Shop-talk] Dishwashers in the garage Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 07:34:29 -0400 This weekend, I installed a dishwasher in my shop. I have a few questions for those of you with experience with them... First, will normal dishwasher soap hurt engine parts, bare metals, etc? Next, is there a soap that I should use that will not hurt the dishwasher? Finally, are there things that should NOT go in there? Thanks. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mbarre at juno.com From ejrussell at mebtel.net Tue May 28 08:50:59 2013 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell) Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 10:50:59 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dishwashers in the garage In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2650FA44707D4092871094AAA785C0D4@EricJRussellPC> > This weekend, I installed a dishwasher in my shop. Years ago I read that NASA needed a way to clean electronic circuit boards and found that ordinary dishwasher powders in a household dishwasher was the most effective and efficient. I doubt there are any engine parts that would be harmed by a dishwasher & soap. Ferrous metals will rust if not quickly dried & painted of course. Also be aware that most dishwashers have a heating element under the bottom rack. Don't let plastic parts come in contact with the heating element as they would likely melt. Eric Russell Mebane, NC From pethier at comcast.net Tue May 28 09:00:44 2013 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 15:00:44 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] Dishwashers in the garage In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1666341587.1061485.1369753244000.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > First, will normal dishwasher soap hurt engine parts, bare metals, When I was rehabbing ("restoring" would be an insult to actual restorers everywhere) the Europa, I put suspension parts in a leaky dishwasher I had parked over the basement floor-drain. The parts would flash-rust as soon as I took them out since all oils were leached out of them. If you do this, paint the parts as soon as you remove them, while they are still warm. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier at comcast.net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica http://www.mnautox.com http://www.mntriumphs.org From gsteve at hammatt.com Tue May 28 15:19:23 2013 From: gsteve at hammatt.com (Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA) Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 14:19:23 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] (Off Topic) Info wanted: Microfilm Digital Conversion Message-ID: <45E90738ADF44E5DB2E56877750AC3F9@StevePC> If youbre reading this and are familiar with or can perform the conversion of microfilm to digital format, please contact me direct. If necessary I can demonstrate how this information request is related to the shop . Super thanks. gsteve at hammatt.com Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA From bobkegel at comcast.net Tue May 28 20:50:02 2013 From: bobkegel at comcast.net (Bob Kegel) Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 19:50:02 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dishwashers in the garage In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <39529EFA96004D8ABD0950F0D63DE497@BigBlack> Good move! I've used the kitchen dishwasher for car parts when the wife was out of town with good results. Aluminum and steel parts came out clean and there was no tell-tale residue in the machine. Dishwashing detergent works well on oil and grease. I add a couple tablespoons to the regular detergent when washing my coveralls and shop rags. Bob K From doug at dougbraun.com Tue May 28 21:17:14 2013 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 23:17:14 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dishwashers in the garage In-Reply-To: <39529EFA96004D8ABD0950F0D63DE497@BigBlack> References: <39529EFA96004D8ABD0950F0D63DE497@BigBlack> Message-ID: You can also use your kitchen oven's self-cleaning cycle for filthy castings like transmission housings and engine blocks... Doug On Tue, May 28, 2013 at 10:50 PM, Bob Kegel wrote: > Good move! > > I've used the kitchen dishwasher for car parts when the wife was out of > town with good results. Aluminum and steel parts came out clean and there > was no tell-tale residue in the machine. Dishwashing detergent works well > on oil and grease. I add a couple tablespoons to the regular detergent when > washing my coveralls and shop rags. From racertod at racertodd.com Tue May 28 21:24:43 2013 From: racertod at racertodd.com (Todd Walke) Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 20:24:43 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dishwashers in the garage In-Reply-To: <39529EFA96004D8ABD0950F0D63DE497@BigBlack> References: Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20130528201916.00765cb8@mail.avvanta.com> Bob wrote: >I've used the kitchen dishwasher for car parts when the wife was out of >town with good results. Whether it's the dishwasher or oven - make sure to remove them before she gets home. Otherwise you'll get this: No need to see the expression on her face, all men will know THAT look... Todd Seattle,WA '86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 276,000 miles '01 Golf TDI, silver. (new work car) 405,000 miles '87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car) 654,000 miles <- Gone to a new home :( http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff From eric at megageek.com Wed May 29 08:22:36 2013 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 10:22:36 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] TIME SENSITIVE --Free hardtop for a TR 4 or other? Message-ID: This was just posted to my local Craigslist. http://cnj.craigslist.org/zip/3808280608.html If any of you know what it will fit, and need it, let me know and I can pick it up for you. I'll ship it to you as well, but I don't know how much that will cost. Let me know. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson From pethier at comcast.net Wed May 29 08:52:10 2013 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 14:52:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] TIME SENSITIVE --Free hardtop for a TR 4 or other? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <2128211117.1083551.1369839130486.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Ad says $100 in central NJ. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier at comcast.net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica http://www.mnautox.com http://www.mntriumphs.org ----- Original Message ----- > From: eric at megageek.com > To: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net > Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2013 9:22:36 AM > Subject: [Shop-talk] TIME SENSITIVE --Free hardtop for a TR 4 or other? > This was just posted to my local Craigslist. > > http://cnj.craigslist.org/zip/3808280608.html > > If any of you know what it will fit, and need it, let me know and I > can > pick it up for you. I'll ship it to you as well, but I don't know how > much that will cost. > > Let me know. > > Eric P > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a > rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson > _______________________________________________ From eric at megageek.com Wed May 29 08:42:43 2013 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 10:42:43 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] TIME SENSITIVE --Free hardtop for a TR 4 or other? In-Reply-To: <2128211117.1083551.1369839130486.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: That was leftover from when he originally tried to sell it. In the description, he states it's free, and it was posted in the "free" section. If you are interested, you can call him to confirm. Again, I'll pick it up if you want it. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson pethier at comcast.net 05/29/2013 10:37 AM To eric at megageek.com cc shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net Subject Re: [Shop-talk] TIME SENSITIVE --Free hardtop for a TR 4 or other? Ad says $100 in central NJ. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier at comcast.net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica http://www.mnautox.com http://www.mntriumphs.org From tputland at charter.net Wed May 29 10:00:31 2013 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 12:00:31 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] FW: Re:TIME SENSITIVE --Free hardtop for a TR 4 or other? Message-ID: <5f41275c.253954.13ef104ea30.Webtop.49@charter.net> Looks liks this might be for a Datsun Roadster as it was recognized by someone from that list...... -------- Begin forwarded message -------- Subject: Re: [Roadsters] FW: [Shop-talk] TIME SENSITIVE --Free hardtop for a TR 4 or other? Date: 5/29/13 10:29:59 AM From: "Carol Herrmann" To: "Tim" It looks like a "parish plastics" hard top from Pa. The was a neighbor of mine back in the '70's" who bought a "Miata looking " top for his SRL. It appears to be the same style top. Parish plastics got bought up by some other company years ago though. Sent from my iPad On May 29, 2013, at 10:53 AM, Tim wrote: > From the shop talk list...... > > > -------- Begin forwarded message -------- > Subject: [Shop-talk] TIME SENSITIVE --Free hardtop for a TR 4 or > other? > Date: 5/29/13 9:22:36 AM > From: eric at megageek.com > To: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net > > > This was just posted to my local Craigslist. > > http://cnj.craigslist.org/zip/3808280608.html > > If any of you know what it will fit, and need it, let me know and I > can > pick it up for you. I'll ship it to you as well, but I don't know how > much that will cost. > > Let me know. > > Eric P > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a > rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson > ________________________________________ From bobkegel at comcast.net Wed May 29 12:46:03 2013 From: bobkegel at comcast.net (Bob Kegel) Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 11:46:03 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dishwashers in the garage In-Reply-To: <3f8f33e6.2511ab.13ef00ecc56.Webtop.49@charter.net> References: <3f8f33e6.2511ab.13ef00ecc56.Webtop.49@charter.net> Message-ID: <6F544E58D3F54438B9BBB8537B7D088A@BigBlack> I use a double shot of Tide liquid along with the dishwasher detergent. I use hot water and set the machine on "soak", giving all those chemicals a couple hours to work. So far, the tub has passed wifely inspection. YMMV -----Original Message----- From: Tim Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2013 04:31 To: Bob Kegel Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dishwashers in the garage You wash your shop rags in the regular clothes washer? What exactly are you using for soap? And how does the tub far when you are done (is there a grease/oil residue left behind)? Thanks!! tim From jamesf at groupwbench.org Wed May 29 12:55:40 2013 From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin) Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 14:55:40 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers? In-Reply-To: <518C2D45.7000701@xxiii.com> References: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com> <518C2D45.7000701@xxiii.com> Message-ID: I have about 1/2 acre of foot-high grass that I just want short, not pristine. Got a quote of $385 to cut it. Once. I have a Honda rider mower that is dog slow and fills the bags in 10 feet. I'd like to get one of those stand-on mowers I see the pros using that really scoot, and either mulch or drive it towards the center/edge, but I have no idea what to search for. Any ideas/experiences? thanks, jim From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com Wed May 29 13:10:06 2013 From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott) Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 15:10:06 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers? In-Reply-To: References: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com> <518C2D45.7000701@xxiii.com> Message-ID: <51A6528E.5050606@gmail.com> Yeah, pay them. I have had literally your same experience. What you really want is a brush hog, or a chain mower attached to a tractor that you see highway road crews using. Any normal mower just can't handle too-tall grass, especially when you start going over cut grass on top of uncut grass. You either need an open deck, a very powerful engine, and a non-blade 'blade' (a chain), or you need time and patience and a big raking object. I have two acres that is perpetually in the same condition you describe. I couldn't even find someone to cut it, and when I did, I was offended at the quotes. After dealing with it, I suggest you pay them, or else make friends with some of the guys on the road crew. On 5/29/2013 2:55 PM, Jim Franklin wrote: > I have about 1/2 acre of foot-high grass that I just want short, not > pristine. Got a quote of $385 to cut it. Once. I have a Honda rider mower > that is dog slow and fills the bags in 10 feet. > > I'd like to get one of those stand-on mowers I see the pros using that > really scoot, and either mulch or drive it towards the center/edge, but I > have no idea what to search for. Any ideas/experiences? > > thanks, > jim > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/scott.hall.personal at gmail.com From jniolon at att.net Wed May 29 13:27:01 2013 From: jniolon at att.net (John Niolon) Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 14:27:01 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers? References: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com><518C2D45.7000701@xxiii.com> Message-ID: jim, they are called 'walk-behinds... and the little sulky is an accessory... here's a link http://www.gravely.com/en-us/walk-behind-mowers/Pro-Walk-Hydro-Drive/Pages/default.aspx jphn ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Franklin" To: Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2013 1:55 PM Subject: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers? >I have about 1/2 acre of foot-high grass that I just want short, not > pristine. Got a quote of $385 to cut it. Once. I have a Honda rider mower > that is dog slow and fills the bags in 10 feet. > > I'd like to get one of those stand-on mowers I see the pros using that > really scoot, and either mulch or drive it towards the center/edge, but I > have no idea what to search for. Any ideas/experiences? > > thanks, > jim > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jniolon at att.net From fishplate at gmail.com Wed May 29 14:28:10 2013 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 16:28:10 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers? In-Reply-To: References: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com> <518C2D45.7000701@xxiii.com> Message-ID: On Wed, May 29, 2013 at 3:27 PM, John Niolon wrote: > jim, > > they are called 'walk-behinds... and the little sulky is an accessory... > here's a link > > http://www.gravely.com/en-us/walk-behind-mowers/Pro-Walk-Hydro-Drive/Pages/default.aspx I used to have an old David Bradley 2-wheel tractor with a sickle bar mower, whih would be good for that task, as well as satisfying one's needs for tinkering on old machinery. Tractor: http://www.w-t-p.com/2005/D03-7937.jpg Mower: http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/maOwxo9R2-PZsUrtEHoL8kQ.jpg You might be able to find something like that cheap, if you're so inclined. Otherwise, get someone to bush hog it twice a year. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From nick at landform.co.uk Wed May 29 14:37:01 2013 From: nick at landform.co.uk (Nick Brearley) Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 21:37:01 +0100 Subject: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers? In-Reply-To: References: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com> <518C2D45.7000701@xxiii.com> Message-ID: <51A666ED.1030903@landform.co.uk> On 29/05/2013 19:55, Jim Franklin wrote: > I have about 1/2 acre of foot-high grass that I just want short, not > pristine. Got a quote of $385 to cut it. Once. I have a Honda rider mower > that is dog slow and fills the bags in 10 feet. > > I'd like to get one of those stand-on mowers I see the pros using that > really scoot, and either mulch or drive it towards the center/edge, but I > have no idea what to search for. Any ideas/experiences? > Jim, This machine could be what you are looking for: http://www.scag.com/vride.html Might be overkill for 1/2 an acre but I can't imagine why that should put you off... Another option is a flail mower, if you are cutting irregularly I've found that these deal with the mowings better than a rotary deck. Ferris make one: http://www.ferrisindustries.com/eu/en/walk-behind-mowers/Comfort-control-dd-fm/ Not a stand on but half an acre of mowing only means about 1 1/4 miles of walking. Both makers are well thought of in the business. Nick Brearley From jniolon at att.net Wed May 29 14:50:21 2013 From: jniolon at att.net (John Niolon) Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 15:50:21 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers? References: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com><518C2D45.7000701@xxiii.com> Message-ID: <89F5A9AE5B844A6BAC9D53F6395B2DF7@john5043a2d406> spent lots of summers letting a DB 2 wheeler drag me thru hi grass... changing out sickle bar teeth... running from yellow jackets... and all with no helmet or harness... how did we live through it !!! That would work better than a "MOWER".... it just cut the weeds then lay them down...easier to rake or "windrow" to clean up... good memory, thanks Jeff john ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Scarbrough" To: "shop-talk at autox.team.net" Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2013 3:28 PM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers? > On Wed, May 29, 2013 at 3:27 PM, John Niolon wrote: >> jim, >> >> they are called 'walk-behinds... and the little sulky is an accessory... >> here's a link >> >> http://www.gravely.com/en-us/walk-behind-mowers/Pro-Walk-Hydro-Drive/Pages/default.aspx > > I used to have an old David Bradley 2-wheel tractor with a sickle bar > mower, whih would be good for that task, as well as satisfying one's > needs for tinkering on old machinery. > > Tractor: http://www.w-t-p.com/2005/D03-7937.jpg > > Mower: http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/maOwxo9R2-PZsUrtEHoL8kQ.jpg > > You might be able to find something like that cheap, if you're so > inclined. Otherwise, get someone to bush hog it twice a year. > > Jeff Scarbrough > Corrosion Acres, Ga. > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jniolon at att.net From eltonclark at gmail.com Wed May 29 15:08:42 2013 From: eltonclark at gmail.com (Elton E. (Tony) Clark) Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 16:08:42 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers? In-Reply-To: References: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com> <518C2D45.7000701@xxiii.com> Message-ID: *I guess I'm a cheap patient person but I deal with 100 x 200 foot lot (1/2 acre) when it gets out of hand and 2 feet high just by raising the cutting height to the top and grinding around in low gear taking a half swath when it's REALLY heavy. Use the chute instead of the bag and throw the cut material to the outside. After a few days of drying* * time, go back over to shred the clippings. I use a LawnBoy 12 hp rider with a single blade. Takes about an hour and I use the cup holder for a Bud.* *Tony* On 29 May 2013 15:28, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > On Wed, May 29, 2013 at 3:27 PM, John Niolon wrote: > > jim, > > > > they are called 'walk-behinds... and the little sulky is an accessory... > > here's a link > > > > > http://www.gravely.com/en-us/walk-behind-mowers/Pro-Walk-Hydro-Drive/Pages/default.aspx > > I used to have an old David Bradley 2-wheel tractor with a sickle bar > mower, whih would be good for that task, as well as satisfying one's > needs for tinkering on old machinery. > > Tractor: http://www.w-t-p.com/2005/D03-7937.jpg > > Mower: http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/maOwxo9R2-PZsUrtEHoL8kQ.jpg > > You might be able to find something like that cheap, if you're so > inclined. Otherwise, get someone to bush hog it twice a year. > > Jeff Scarbrough > Corrosion Acres, Ga. > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eltonclark at gmail.com From dmscheidt at gmail.com Wed May 29 16:11:37 2013 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 00:11:37 +0200 Subject: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers? In-Reply-To: References: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com> <518C2D45.7000701@xxiii.com> Message-ID: On May 29, 2013, at 22:28, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > On Wed, May 29, 2013 at 3:27 PM, John Niolon wrote: >> jim, >> >> they are called 'walk-behinds... and the little sulky is an accessory... >> here's a link >> >> http://www.gravely.com/en-us/walk-behind-mowers/Pro-Walk-Hydro-Drive/Pages/de fault.aspx > > I used to have an old David Bradley 2-wheel tractor with a sickle bar > mower, whih would be good for that task, as well as satisfying one's > needs for tinkering on old machinery. > > Tractor: http://www.w-t-p.com/2005/D03-7937.jpg > > Mower: http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/maOwxo9R2-PZsUrtEHoL8kQ.jpg > > You might be able to find something like that cheap, if you're so > inclined. Otherwise, get someone to bush hog it twice a year. > I saw a whole bunch of some thing very similar in south Serbia last week, some pulling impressively large trailers loaded with hay. My wife's great uncle uses one to mow his hay fields. > Jeff Scarbrough > Corrosion Acres, Ga. > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dmscheidt at gmail.com From jandkstone99 at msn.com Wed May 29 17:00:39 2013 From: jandkstone99 at msn.com (Jim Stone) Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 18:00:39 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] FW: Re:TIME SENSITIVE --Free hardtop for a TR 4 or other? In-Reply-To: <5f41275c.253954.13ef104ea30.Webtop.49@charter.net> References: <5f41275c.253954.13ef104ea30.Webtop.49@charter.net> Message-ID: It also looked a lot like the top they made for Sunbeams. But the link was removed before I could get a second opinion on that. Sent from my iPhone On May 29, 2013, at 11:05 AM, "Tim" wrote: > Looks liks this might be for a Datsun Roadster as it was recognized by someone from that list...... > > > -------- Begin forwarded message -------- > Subject: Re: [Roadsters] FW: [Shop-talk] TIME SENSITIVE --Free hardtop for a TR 4 or other? > Date: 5/29/13 10:29:59 AM > From: "Carol Herrmann" > To: "Tim" > > > It looks like a "parish plastics" hard top from Pa. The was a neighbor of mine back in the '70's" who bought a "Miata looking " top for his SRL. It appears to be the same style top. Parish plastics got bought up by some other company years ago though. > > > Sent from my iPad > > On May 29, 2013, at 10:53 AM, Tim wrote: > >> From the shop talk list...... >> >> >> -------- Begin forwarded message -------- >> Subject: [Shop-talk] TIME SENSITIVE --Free hardtop for a TR 4 or other? >> Date: 5/29/13 9:22:36 AM >> From: eric at megageek.com >> To: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net >> >> >> This was just posted to my local Craigslist. >> >> http://cnj.craigslist.org/zip/3808280608.html >> >> If any of you know what it will fit, and need it, let me know and I can >> pick it up for you. I'll ship it to you as well, but I don't know how >> much that will cost. >> >> Let me know. >> >> Eric P >> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational >> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph >> Waldo Emerson >> ________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jandkstone99 at msn.com From cavanadd at frontier.com Wed May 29 20:09:23 2013 From: cavanadd at frontier.com (Dave C) Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 19:09:23 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers? In-Reply-To: References: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com> <518C2D45.7000701@xxiii.com> Message-ID: <51A6B4D3.8090309@frontier.com> I don't think "sickle bar" and "cheap" are allowed to be in the same sentence. At least, I have never seen any kind of sickle bar I would actually want to use for anything near what I would be willing to pay for it. To the O.P., one thing to consider would be to rent a DR Mower. Yes, it's walk behind, but it'll knock the grass down. Or find a neighbor with a tractor and brush hog. On 5/29/2013 1:28 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > I used to have an old David Bradley 2-wheel tractor with a sickle bar > mower, whih would be good for that task, as well as satisfying one's > needs for tinkering on old machinery. > > Tractor:http://www.w-t-p.com/2005/D03-7937.jpg > > Mower:http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/maOwxo9R2-PZsUrtEHoL8kQ.jpg From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com Wed May 29 20:19:43 2013 From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott) Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 22:19:43 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers? In-Reply-To: <51A6B4D3.8090309@frontier.com> References: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com> <518C2D45.7000701@xxiii.com> <51A6B4D3.8090309@frontier.com> Message-ID: <51A6B73F.7090901@gmail.com> I just re-read the "half-acre" part. For half an acre, do what Dave says and rent the DR/brush hog. Half an acre is nothing to knock out with one of those. On 5/29/2013 10:09 PM, Dave C wrote: > To the O.P., one thing to consider would be to rent a DR Mower. Yes, > it's walk behind, but it'll knock the grass down. Or find a neighbor > with a tractor and brush hog. From wmc_st at xxiii.com Thu May 30 07:34:54 2013 From: wmc_st at xxiii.com (Wayne) Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 09:34:54 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dishwashers in the garage In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <51A7557E.60808@xxiii.com> On 5/28/2013 7:34 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote: > First, will normal dishwasher soap hurt engine parts, bare metals, etc? > Next, is there a soap that I should use that will not hurt the dishwasher? > Finally, are there things that should NOT go in there? I've found them to be really good at cleaning plastic car parts over the years. The Ex insisted on eating fast food breakfast & what not on her long commute and would trash a car interior. Routine was 4 bolts - pull driver's seat, dismantle center console & part of dash, throw in dishwasher. Vacuum up crud (SUPER easy and more thorough with nothing in the way -- easily worth time of disassembly) while the D.W. is running. Also ran a lot of under hood plastic parts like covers, intake parts, etc. Haven't done many metal parts. But I suspect any heavy oil or grease would gack up a D.W. in a hurry. And the BIG thing to avoid -- do NOT use any kind of foamy detergents!!! Regular dish soap or Simple Green will foam like mad and make a hellish mess of foam you can't hardly get rid of! -w From tputland at charter.net Thu May 30 09:13:29 2013 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 11:13:29 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] thunk going into reverse Message-ID: <6a6679d6.83f801.13ef6003897.Webtop.44@charter.net> I have a 92 ford tempo that both my daughters drove while in high school. It has now been mostly sitting for the past two years with some usage last summer and random weekends druing this time frame. It has less than 75,000 miles on it (original old lady car from GA when we got it six years ago with only 52K at that time. It had the original plug wires stamped with 1992 on them and probably the original coolant based on the chunky choclate milk consistancy.) Anyway, I moved it yesterday and was reminded of the thunk I get after putting it in reverse (NOT during shift lever movement) and stepping on the gas. If my foot is left on the brake pedal, it does not thunk until after I remove my foot from the brake and press on the gas. It does not seem to do this when shift into drive. Is this CV axle or tranny? Thanks tim From dmscheidt at gmail.com Thu May 30 09:54:13 2013 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 17:54:13 +0200 Subject: [Shop-talk] thunk going into reverse In-Reply-To: <6a6679d6.83f801.13ef6003897.Webtop.44@charter.net> References: <6a6679d6.83f801.13ef6003897.Webtop.44@charter.net> Message-ID: On May 30, 2013, at 17:13, Tim wrote: > I have a 92 ford tempo that both my daughters drove while in high > school. It has now been mostly sitting for the past two years with some > usage last summer and random weekends druing this time frame. It has > less than 75,000 miles on it (original old lady car from GA when we got > it six years ago with only 52K at that time. It had the original plug > wires stamped with 1992 on them and probably the original coolant based > on the chunky choclate milk consistancy.) > > Anyway, I moved it yesterday and was reminded of the thunk I get after > putting it in reverse (NOT during shift lever movement) and stepping on > the gas. If my foot is left on the brake pedal, it does not thunk until > after I remove my foot from the brake and press on the gas. > > It does not seem to do this when shift into drive. > > Is this CV axle or tranny? Motor mount, tranny mount is my first guess. From tputland at charter.net Thu May 30 10:51:14 2013 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 12:51:14 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] thunk going into reverse Message-ID: <110b9463.840968.13ef659b737.Webtop.44@charter.net> Oh, that would be nice...and considerably cheaper to fix on a car not worth much to begin with. Did I mention my oldest backed into a light pole, dead center of the rear end? She managed to not break a light so I fixed it with a BFH and made her track down and pay for a replacement hood and bumper (diff color of course!) and then my youngest backed into an oncoming truck which managed to miss her all but a small little clip on the bumper? (So we have a three colored car!) I wonder if I could get $250 for it.....it does run good....who cares that the crappy ford window motors are all dead and you can no longer really put the windows down..... Thanks for hopefully good news!! tim On Thu, May 30, 2013 at 11:07 AM, Doug Braun wrote: I agree. Doug On Thu, May 30, 2013 at 11:54 AM, David Scheidt < dmscheidt at gmail.com > wrote: Motor mount, tranny mount is my first guess. From ejrussell at mebtel.net Thu May 30 12:10:31 2013 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell) Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 14:10:31 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] thunk going into reverse In-Reply-To: <6a6679d6.83f801.13ef6003897.Webtop.44@charter.net> References: <6a6679d6.83f801.13ef6003897.Webtop.44@charter.net> Message-ID: <95FF76CE230040C1BC8A3F715C7AFEFC@EricJRussellPC> I second the notion that motor/transmission mounts are what I'd check first. If you open the hood and replicate the scenario you might be able to see the engine jumping as its torque moves it off a broken mount. Eric Russell Mebane, NC ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim" To: "Shop Talk" Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 11:13 AM Subject: [Shop-talk] thunk going into reverse >I have a 92 ford tempo > I moved it yesterday and was reminded of the thunk I get after > putting it in reverse (NOT during shift lever movement) and stepping on > the gas. If my foot is left on the brake pedal, it does not thunk until > after I remove my foot from the brake and press on the gas. From battmain at yahoo.com Thu May 30 12:34:00 2013 From: battmain at yahoo.com (Battmain) Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 11:34:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] thunk going into reverse In-Reply-To: <110b9463.840968.13ef659b737.Webtop.44@charter.net> References: <110b9463.840968.13ef659b737.Webtop.44@charter.net> Message-ID: <1369938840.96548.YahooMailNeo@web140001.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> A bit of googling dug up this... http://www.fordforums.com/f307/loud-clunk-reverse-93-tempo-gl-80477/ Brake pads that are missing hardware may cause clunk noises too. ----- Original Message ----- > From: Tim (snip) > Oh, that would be nice...and considerably cheaper to fix on a car not > worth much to begin with. > > Did I mention my oldest backed into a light pole, dead center of the > rear end? She managed to not break a light so I fixed it with a BFH and > made her track down and pay for a replacement hood and bumper (diff > color of course!) and then my youngest backed into an oncoming truck > which managed to miss her all but a small little clip on the bumper? (So > we have a three colored car!) I wonder if I could get $250 for it.....it > does run good....who cares that the crappy ford window motors are all > dead and you can no longer really put the windows down..... > > Thanks for hopefully good news!! > tim > (snip) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu May 30 14:38:29 2013 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 20:38:29 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] thunk going into reverse In-Reply-To: <6a6679d6.83f801.13ef6003897.Webtop.44@charter.net> Message-ID: <20130530203829.JVT6T.29450.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> > Is this CV axle or tranny? I'd check the torque strut first (assuming it has one). Randall From eric at megageek.com Thu May 30 17:58:16 2013 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 19:58:16 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] TIME SENSITIVE - The hard top listing is back Message-ID: Here it is... http://cnj.craigslist.org/zip/3839511459.html Again, it's free, so if you need it, let me know and I'll get it and ship it to you. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson From KVacek at Ameritech.net Thu May 30 21:12:09 2013 From: KVacek at Ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 22:12:09 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers? In-Reply-To: References: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com> <518C2D45.7000701@xxiii.com> Message-ID: <000901ce5dac$a3c8ffa0$eb5afee0$@Ameritech.net> Jim, Not sure that it's the machine for the job, but the commonly-seen brand of standing mower around here (Chicago area) is Wright Stander. It might not be distributed very widely, but I really don't know - only that I see them pretty much every day all summer. Karl -----Original Message----- From: Jim Franklin Subject: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers? I'd like to get one of those stand-on mowers I see the pros using that really scoot, and either mulch or drive it towards the center/edge, but I have no idea what to search for. Any ideas/experiences? thanks, jim From Bob at texmog.com Fri May 31 06:33:18 2013 From: Bob at texmog.com (Bob Nogueira) Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 07:33:18 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Stereo cooling in the garage Message-ID: <1A885904-DD1C-4B62-BA78-82600785DE0B@texmog.com> My 40 year old Realistic stereo in the garage finally died. I replaced it with a TEAC unit. The Realistic unit had a walnut case with the cooling vents located on the backside. The TEAC unit has the cooling vents on the top of the case. I'm worried that with the amount of dust generated in the garage I'll have a heavy build up of dust inside the case. If I place some air filter material over the vents will I be limiting the air flow enough that the unit overheats.? Any suggestions or am I being paranoid? Neither unit has a cooling fan, Bob From tputland at charter.net Fri May 31 07:55:21 2013 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 09:55:21 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Stereo cooling in the garage Message-ID: <54a6178b.847e44.13efadf0c8c.Webtop.44@charter.net> When I replaced the old tube style tuner in my shop I ended up buying a big ugly boom box combo unit that would play my ipod (and CDs if I was so inclined). I have a big plastic shopping bag that I pull all the way down over it when not in use and lift it up so it just sits on the top when in use so as to keep the fall out to a minimum. It is not really pretty, but then again neither am I nor is most of my shop space. tim On Fri, May 31, 2013 at 7:33 AM, Bob Nogueira wrote: > My 40 year old Realistic stereo in the garage finally died. I replaced > it with > a TEAC unit. The Realistic unit had a walnut case with the cooling > vents > located on the backside. The TEAC unit has the cooling vents on the > top of the > case. > I'm worried that with the amount of dust generated in the garage I'll > have a > heavy build up of dust inside the case. > If I place some air filter material over the vents will I be limiting > the air > flow enough that the unit overheats.? Any suggestions or am I > being > paranoid? > Neither unit has a cooling fan, > > Bob > _______________________________________________ From tputland at charter.net Fri May 31 07:55:55 2013 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 09:55:55 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Stereo cooling in the garage Message-ID: <700a8ef2.847e6d.13efadf9090.Webtop.44@charter.net> Oh yea, I don't have an over heating issue and I am in WI. On Fri, May 31, 2013 at 7:33 AM, Bob Nogueira wrote: > My 40 year old Realistic stereo in the garage finally died. I replaced > it with > a TEAC unit. The Realistic unit had a walnut case with the cooling > vents > located on the backside. The TEAC unit has the cooling vents on the > top of the > case. > I'm worried that with the amount of dust generated in the garage I'll > have a > heavy build up of dust inside the case. > If I place some air filter material over the vents will I be limiting > the air > flow enough that the unit overheats.? Any suggestions or am I > being > paranoid? > Neither unit has a cooling fan, > > Bob > _______________________________________________ From doug at dougbraun.com Fri May 31 10:04:07 2013 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 12:04:07 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers? In-Reply-To: <000901ce5dac$a3c8ffa0$eb5afee0$@Ameritech.net> References: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com> <518C2D45.7000701@xxiii.com> <000901ce5dac$a3c8ffa0$eb5afee0$@Ameritech.net> Message-ID: Perhaps something simpler would work for the original poster's task: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzdjOkLQw1s Doug On Thu, May 30, 2013 at 11:12 PM, Karl Vacek wrote: > Jim, > Not sure that it's the machine for the job, but the commonly-seen brand of > standing mower around here (Chicago area) is Wright Stander. It might not > be distributed very widely, but I really don't know - only that I see them > pretty much every day all summer. > Karl > > -----Original Message----- > From: Jim Franklin > Subject: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers? > > I'd like to get one of those stand-on mowers I see the pros using that > really scoot, and either mulch or drive it towards the center/edge, but I > have no idea what to search for. Any ideas/experiences? > thanks, > jim > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug at dougbraun.com From doug at dougbraun.com Fri May 31 10:05:59 2013 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 12:05:59 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers? In-Reply-To: References: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com> <518C2D45.7000701@xxiii.com> <000901ce5dac$a3c8ffa0$eb5afee0$@Ameritech.net> Message-ID: This also puts it in perspective: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsfIHiBB6xE On Fri, May 31, 2013 at 12:04 PM, Doug Braun wrote: > Perhaps something simpler would work for the original poster's task: > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzdjOkLQw1s > > Doug > > > On Thu, May 30, 2013 at 11:12 PM, Karl Vacek wrote: > >> Jim, >> Not sure that it's the machine for the job, but the commonly-seen brand of >> standing mower around here (Chicago area) is Wright Stander. It might not >> be distributed very widely, but I really don't know - only that I see them >> pretty much every day all summer. >> Karl >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Jim Franklin >> Subject: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers? >> >> I'd like to get one of those stand-on mowers I see the pros using that >> really scoot, and either mulch or drive it towards the center/edge, but I >> have no idea what to search for. Any ideas/experiences? >> thanks, >> jim >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug at dougbraun.com From battmain at yahoo.com Fri May 31 11:21:01 2013 From: battmain at yahoo.com (Battmain) Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 10:21:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers? In-Reply-To: References: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com> <518C2D45.7000701@xxiii.com> <000901ce5dac$a3c8ffa0$eb5afee0$@Ameritech.net> Message-ID: <1370020861.78365.YahooMailNeo@web140005.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> One may note there are no inch or two inch thick saplings in any of the videos. I dug a bit but didn't find any. :) May be able to change my mind, but power tools even with their issues, will win over hard labor any day. (I must be getting old. ) Brian ----- Original Message ----- > From: Doug Braun > To: Shop-Talk > Cc: > Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 12:04 PM > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers? > > Perhaps something simpler would work for the original poster's task: > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzdjOkLQw1s > > Doug > >(snip) From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Fri May 31 11:23:59 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 10:23:59 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Stereo cooling in the garage In-Reply-To: <700a8ef2.847e6d.13efadf9090.Webtop.44@charter.net> Message-ID: <20.3E.25428.8ACD8A15@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> I'd just leave it alone. We get a lot of dust here too, and my 70's Pioneer receiver didn't seem to mind a 20 year accumulation. The electronics outlived the speakers. Of course the dial lights burned out a long time ago, so that might have helped -- Randall From pethier at comcast.net Fri May 31 11:56:40 2013 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 17:56:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] Stereo cooling in the garage In-Reply-To: <1A885904-DD1C-4B62-BA78-82600785DE0B@texmog.com> Message-ID: <100309921.1132394.1370023000152.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> How much did you pay for this thing? If not much, just run it. From parkanzky at gmail.com Fri May 31 12:12:49 2013 From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky) Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 14:12:49 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers? In-Reply-To: <1370020861.78365.YahooMailNeo@web140005.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com> <518C2D45.7000701@xxiii.com> <000901ce5dac$a3c8ffa0$eb5afee0$@Ameritech.net> <1370020861.78365.YahooMailNeo@web140005.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6C9C9629-0501-4480-A705-D1A195071398@gmail.com> Some of my friends invoke John Henry sometimes. I remind them that he died at the end and the machine kept going. -Paul On May 31, 2013, at 1:21 PM, Battmain wrote: > One may note there are no inch or two inch thick saplings in any of the > videos. > > I dug a bit but didn't find any. :) May be able to change my > mind, but > power tools even with their issues, will win over hard labor any > day. > > (I must be getting old. ) > > Brian > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Doug Braun >> To: Shop-Talk > >> Cc: >> Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 12:04 PM > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers? >> >> Perhaps something simpler would > work for the original poster's task: > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzdjOkLQw1s >> >> Doug From mg_garage at comcast.net Fri May 31 12:21:25 2013 From: mg_garage at comcast.net (gordies garage) Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 14:21:25 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Stereo cooling in the garage In-Reply-To: <100309921.1132394.1370023000152.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <100309921.1132394.1370023000152.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: I have a relatively nice Sony receiver in the garage and I simply use a small towel to cover the top when not in use and fold it over itself when in use. Been a couple years and no problems other than the neighbors when I crank up the Bose Series II speakers attached to it. Gordie From doug at dougbraun.com Fri May 31 12:34:04 2013 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 14:34:04 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers? In-Reply-To: <1370020861.78365.YahooMailNeo@web140005.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com> <518C2D45.7000701@xxiii.com> <000901ce5dac$a3c8ffa0$eb5afee0$@Ameritech.net> <1370020861.78365.YahooMailNeo@web140005.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: You mean something like this? http://www.latef.org/images/BobMachete.JPG Doug On Fri, May 31, 2013 at 1:21 PM, Battmain wrote: > One may note there are no inch or two inch thick saplings in any of the > videos. > > I dug a bit but didn't find any. :) May be able to change my > mind, but > power tools even with their issues, will win over hard labor any > day. > > (I must be getting old. ) > > Brian > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: Doug Braun > > To: Shop-Talk > > > Cc: > > Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 12:04 PM > > > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers? > > > > Perhaps something simpler would > work for the original poster's task: > > > > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzdjOkLQw1s > > > > Doug > > > >(snip) > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug at dougbraun.com From jamesf at groupwbench.org Fri May 31 14:18:56 2013 From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin) Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 16:18:56 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers? In-Reply-To: References: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com> <518C2D45.7000701@xxiii.com> <000901ce5dac$a3c8ffa0$eb5afee0$@Ameritech.net> Message-ID: You, uh, haven't met me :-) Let's say I more represent the animal that'd graze on that grass than either of the contestants. However, I did find a landscaping company that will do it for $50/cut. They wanted $100 to do the first cut but my girlfriend wanted to play with the rider mower and did about half before it got dark. Thanks for all your responses. A friend does have a 46" commercial mower she'd sell me but I'd need to buy the sulky. Not sure what that entails but once the heat breaks here in MA I'll venture outside and see what she has. jim On May 31, 2013, at 12:05 PM, Doug Braun wrote: > This also puts it in perspective: > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsfIHiBB6xE > > > > On Fri, May 31, 2013 at 12:04 PM, Doug Braun wrote: > >> Perhaps something simpler would work for the original poster's task: >> >> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzdjOkLQw1s >> >> Doug From battmain at yahoo.com Fri May 31 16:22:00 2013 From: battmain at yahoo.com (Battmain) Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 15:22:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers? In-Reply-To: References: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com> <518C2D45.7000701@xxiii.com> <000901ce5dac$a3c8ffa0$eb5afee0$@Ameritech.net> <1370020861.78365.YahooMailNeo@web140005.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1370038920.13190.YahooMailNeo@web140001.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Haha. Where I'm originally from, they still cut grass that way today. :) The motorized things are a luxury there. I've never been able to get my own machete that sharp. I need to find someone who knows the art. Even my uncle's machete, I inherited when he passed, is sharp enough to cut paper. I remember him sitting there filing away on the edges. Brian ----- Original Message ----- > From: Doug Braun > To: Shop-Talk > Cc: > Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 2:34 PM > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers? > > You mean something like this? > > http://www.latef.org/images/BobMachete.JPG > > Doug > > > On Fri, May 31, 2013 at 1:21 PM, Battmain wrote: > >> One may note there are no inch or two inch thick saplings in any of the >> videos. >> >> I dug a bit but didn't find any. :) May be able to change my >> mind, but >> power tools even with their issues, will win over hard labor any >> day. >> >> (I must be getting old. ) >> >> Brian >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> > >> From: Doug Braun >> > To: Shop-Talk >> >> > Cc: >> > Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 12:04 PM >> > >> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers? >> > >> > Perhaps something simpler would >> work for the original poster's task: >> > >> > >> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzdjOkLQw1s >> > >> > Doug >> > >> >(snip) >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug at dougbraun.com > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/battmain at yahoo.com From eltonclark at gmail.com Fri May 31 16:40:03 2013 From: eltonclark at gmail.com (Elton E. (Tony) Clark) Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 17:40:03 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers? In-Reply-To: References: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com> <518C2D45.7000701@xxiii.com> <000901ce5dac$a3c8ffa0$eb5afee0$@Ameritech.net> Message-ID: This girlfriend who mows half your yard while you natter about buying a mower; does she have a sister? On 31 May 2013 15:18, Jim Franklin wrote: > You, uh, haven't met me :-) > > Let's say I more represent the animal that'd graze on that grass than > either > of the contestants. > > However, I did find a landscaping company that will do it for $50/cut. They > wanted $100 to do the first cut but my girlfriend wanted to play with the > rider mower and did about half before it got dark. > > Thanks for all your responses. A friend does have a 46" commercial mower > she'd > sell me but I'd need to buy the sulky. Not sure what that entails but once > the > heat breaks here in MA I'll venture outside and see what she has. > > jim > > On May 31, 2013, at 12:05 PM, Doug Braun wrote: > > > This also puts it in perspective: > > > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsfIHiBB6xE > > > > > > > > On Fri, May 31, 2013 at 12:04 PM, Doug Braun wrote: > > > >> Perhaps something simpler would work for the original poster's task: > >> > >> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzdjOkLQw1s > >> > >> Doug > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eltonclark at gmail.com From mistertwo at sbcglobal.net Fri May 31 16:59:19 2013 From: mistertwo at sbcglobal.net (Rand E) Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 15:59:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers? In-Reply-To: References: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com> <518C2D45.7000701@xxiii.com> <000901ce5dac$a3c8ffa0$eb5afee0$@Ameritech.net> Message-ID: <1370041159.75841.YahooMailRC@web182205.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Someone like this? http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd133/randey90/mowing_zps08982219.jpg Randy ________________________________ From: Elton E. (Tony) Clark To: Jim Franklin ; Shop Talk List Sent: Fri, May 31, 2013 5:44:06 PM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers? This girlfriend who mows half your yard while you natter about buying a mower; does she have a sister? From rustymetal at sbcglobal.net Fri May 31 21:45:15 2013 From: rustymetal at sbcglobal.net (Frank Vantacich) Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 20:45:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] rigid insulation board Message-ID: <1370058315.92733.YahooMailRC@web184902.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> I need to insulate the ceiling in my barn, 18'x30', and am thinking of using 2" rigid insulation board or otherwise called polystyrene. One side has a reflective foil on it and the other has some kind of a plastic wrap on it and it is this side that I would like to paint white to cover up the blue printing. Is this feasible and does any one recommend a particular paint. Thanks for the help. Frank V. Loomis, Ca rustymetal at sbcglobal.net From jibjib at att.net Fri May 31 21:48:05 2013 From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks) Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 20:48:05 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Stereo cooling in the garage In-Reply-To: <1A885904-DD1C-4B62-BA78-82600785DE0B@texmog.com> References: <1A885904-DD1C-4B62-BA78-82600785DE0B@texmog.com> Message-ID: <64FADE8794AC440B8C46F372F1F1FE4A@EntCentPC> Bob, How about a flat plate on top of the receiver with say 2 inch standoffs at the corners. The dust can't drop in and the heat can get out. Plus it's additional storage surface!!! Jack -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Nogueira Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 5:33 AM To: Shop Talk Subject: [Shop-talk] Stereo cooling in the garage My 40 year old Realistic stereo in the garage finally died. I replaced it with a TEAC unit. The Realistic unit had a walnut case with the cooling vents located on the backside. The TEAC unit has the cooling vents on the top of the case. I'm worried that with the amount of dust generated in the garage I'll have a heavy build up of dust inside the case. If I place some air filter material over the vents will I be limiting the air flow enough that the unit overheats.? Any suggestions or am I being paranoid? Neither unit has a cooling fan, Bob _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib at att.net