From eric at megageek.com Sat Feb 2 09:07:40 2013 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2013 11:07:40 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] UPDATE- True "keyless" entry add on In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.2.20130103191509.00cfc5c0@mail.avvanta.com> Message-ID: Here is an update on getting TRUE 'keyless entry' into a vehicle. First, thanks a ton to Todd for finding this information. I eventually ordered the keypad (and CANBUS module) for my vehicle. It was about $270 total. Both parts were high quality and I was impressed. Since the module was more for remote starters, the wiring I needed to do wasn't represented in the directions. I few emails to A1 and I had the info I needed (Note, their tech only works with email. Calling them only gets you a sales person. While this isn't ideal, they are friendly and willing to work with you.) Routing wires through the vehicle was a pain (but not as big of a pain as the rear camera wiring when I had a two-way tail gate and VUX dual firewall!). Of course drilling and mounting the keypad is nerve racking and on this truck, you can't mount it in the ideal location. Once installed, it all worked perfectly (and looks pretty cool.) I would recommend this to anyone that wants add one to their vehicle. My only regret is that I didn't get the 'thought the windshield' keypad. It would have saved about 80% of the labor time and I would be able to easily transfer it to another vehicle. If anyone does want to try it, I quickly made a rough wiring diagram by photoshoping the two instruction manuals together and I'll be more than happy to email it to anyone that wants it. (However, your vehicle's CANBUS module may be different.) Overall, I'm a happy camper and the truck is 98% completed (I'm just waiting on the custom cross rails for the roof rack from Vintage auto.) Thanks again Todd and to everyone on this list! Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson Found this. Saw the system listed for around $170. I assume you'd have to cut an opening in the door for the keypad. Other thing that would concern me is that in most newer vehicles many systems communicate electronically via CANBUS and any add-on would have to not upset the computers. On my TDI, for example, the door lock unit has several micro switches that report on the state of the lock and handle position and transmit that info to the car. This info is used to activate/set off the alarm, turn on interior lights, etc. I'd want to be darn sure that this sort of item will work in your specific vehicle before shelling out the dough. http://www.keyless.com/vehiclekeyless.htm Pricing from here: < http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=AKE-5 > This is clever, the "keypad" is behind the windshield so no cutting. Don't know what company makes the system they install or if it can be done by a DIY'er. http://www.enormis.net/products/product?id=56&category_id=6 Todd From james.f.juhas at snet.net Sun Feb 3 12:53:39 2013 From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas) Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2013 14:53:39 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide Message-ID: <510EC043.5020407@snet.net> I have one of these: http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?PRODUCT_ID=MT002 and I have been unable to successfully drill the proper hole into a bolt head or nut using this. I keep breaking the tip of the drill so I lose the cutting edge of the drill before I can get it to make a hole. Have any of you been able to make this work? From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Feb 3 13:13:28 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2013 12:13:28 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide In-Reply-To: <510EC043.5020407@snet.net> Message-ID: > I have one of these: > > http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?PRODUCT_ID=MT002 > > and I have been unable to successfully drill the proper hole > into a bolt head or nut using this. I keep breaking the tip > of the drill so I lose the cutting edge of the drill before I > can get it to make a hole. Have any of you been able to make > this work? I don't have one, but have you tried first grinding a small flat across the corner of the bolt head, where the hole will go? -- Randall From eltonclark at gmail.com Sun Feb 3 13:39:19 2013 From: eltonclark at gmail.com (Elton E. (Tony) Clark) Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2013 14:39:19 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide In-Reply-To: References: <510EC043.5020407@snet.net> Message-ID: For me, carbide bits cure most drlll problems, cobalt is next best. Tap fluid or cutting fluid helps. Is it a realy hard bolt? Tony From racertod at racertodd.com Sun Feb 3 22:45:18 2013 From: racertod at racertodd.com (Todd Walke) Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2013 21:45:18 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] UPDATE- True "keyless" entry add on In-Reply-To: References: <5.1.0.14.2.20130103191509.00cfc5c0@mail.avvanta.com> Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20130203214418.0078ae58@mail.avvanta.com> Eric wrote: >Here is an update on getting TRUE 'keyless entry' into a vehicle. > >First, thanks a ton to Todd for finding this information. Sweeet! It looked like an interesting solution to your dilemma. Glad it worked out! Todd Seattle,WA '86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 276,000 miles '01 Golf TDI, silver. (new work car) 386,000 miles '87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car) 654,000 miles <- Gone to a new home :( http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff From pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com Mon Feb 4 10:30:23 2013 From: pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com (PJ McGarvey) Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 12:30:23 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide In-Reply-To: References: <510EC043.5020407@snet.net>, , Message-ID: Not sure if there's any secret here. I've drilled a dozen 1/8" safety wire holes in Grade 8 bolts before using a single cobalt bit in a drill press, and without the tool you linked to - just some vice grips on the bolt head to hold it straight. Make sure the bit is sharp, and if it's not some work with a grinder or diamond file to touch up the cutting edges works to keep it cutting w/out overheating which is probably going to trash the whole bit or break it. Go slow (probably slower than you think) and use oil (wd40 seems to work ok) and take breaks to let the bit cool. -PJ > Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2013 14:39:19 -0600 > From: eltonclark at gmail.com > CC: shop-talk at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide > > For me, carbide bits cure most drlll problems, cobalt is next best. Tap > fluid or cutting fluid helps. Is it a realy hard bolt? > Tony > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Feb 4 12:02:58 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 11:02:58 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide In-Reply-To: Message-ID: > Not sure if there's any secret here. I've drilled a dozen > 1/8" safety wire holes in Grade 8 bolts before using a single > cobalt bit in a drill press, and without the tool you linked > to - But did you start on the corner of the bolt head? That's what the linked-to tool is designed to do; and it has a guide right next to the bolt head to hold the drill on-center to the corner. Seems to me that even a cobalt bit is going to grab the corner of the bolt head and bind or break; unless you grind a small flat for the bit to start into. -- Randall From pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com Mon Feb 4 19:12:45 2013 From: pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com (PJ McGarvey) Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 21:12:45 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Nope, I didn't even realize that was something people were doing - and I'm wondering why (though I'm guessing something to do with the strength of the bolt head for torquing?). Maybe a thicker drill bit wouldn't have a problem bending and breaking so easily, almost seems like you're asking for trouble by using that guide and with such a small bit. > From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com > CC: shop-talk at autox.team.net > Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 11:02:58 -0800 > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide > > > Not sure if there's any secret here. I've drilled a dozen > > 1/8" safety wire holes in Grade 8 bolts before using a single > > cobalt bit in a drill press, and without the tool you linked > > to - > > But did you start on the corner of the bolt head? That's what the linked-to > tool is designed to do; and it has a guide right next to the bolt head to > hold the drill on-center to the corner. Seems to me that even a cobalt bit > is going to grab the corner of the bolt head and bind or break; unless you > grind a small flat for the bit to start into. > > -- Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com From marka at maracing.com Tue Feb 5 07:49:12 2013 From: marka at maracing.com (Mark Andy) Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2013 09:49:12 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Howdy, As to "why?" I'm guessing its "don't have to drill as much". Going through a corner of a bolt head seems like it'd be a heck of a lot less material to remove. As for how to actually drill it... I would think it'd be pretty sensitive to what drills you were using and what feed rates. Seems like since you're catching the corner on an angle, it would be pretty easy to overfeed it, causing the drill to take too much of a bite and snap. Is that what's happening, or is it something else? Might have a similar problem coming out, but the bit should be even better supported there. All that said... I've always done like someone else posted and drilled straight through, flat to flat. And I've broken off my share of bits doing it, particularly when I've done it using a hand drill. Mark On Mon, Feb 4, 2013 at 9:12 PM, PJ McGarvey wrote: > Nope, I didn't even realize that was something people were doing - and I'm > wondering why (though I'm guessing something to do with the strength of the > bolt head for torquing?). > Maybe a thicker drill bit wouldn't have a problem bending and breaking so > easily, almost seems like you're asking for trouble by using that guide and > with such a small bit. > >> From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com >> CC: shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 11:02:58 -0800 >> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide >> >> > Not sure if there's any secret here. I've drilled a dozen >> > 1/8" safety wire holes in Grade 8 bolts before using a single >> > cobalt bit in a drill press, and without the tool you linked >> > to - >> >> But did you start on the corner of the bolt head? That's what the > linked-to >> tool is designed to do; and it has a guide right next to the bolt head to >> hold the drill on-center to the corner. Seems to me that even a cobalt bit >> is going to grab the corner of the bolt head and bind or break; unless you >> grind a small flat for the bit to start into. >> >> -- Randall >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/marka at maracing.com From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com Tue Feb 5 07:54:50 2013 From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott) Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2013 09:54:50 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <51111D3A.4070703@gmail.com> A bike I bought had a few that were drilled through the edges of a bolt. I'm trying to remember why now, but at the time it seemed to make sense for that particular bolt. But like Mark said, I've never drilled those myself. I have a hard-enough time drilling through flat-to-flat. I'd do like Randall (I think) said, and grind a flat, then drill. It seems like the fixtures designed to make things easier are hit-and-miss. Some are helpful, and others are just a waste of money. On 2/5/2013 9:49 AM, Mark Andy wrote: > Howdy, > > As to "why?" I'm guessing its "don't have to drill as much". Going > through a corner of a bolt head seems like it'd be a heck of a lot > less material to remove. > > As for how to actually drill it... I would think it'd be pretty > sensitive to what drills you were using and what feed rates. Seems > like since you're catching the corner on an angle, it would be pretty > easy to overfeed it, causing the drill to take too much of a bite and > snap. Is that what's happening, or is it something else? Might have > a similar problem coming out, but the bit should be even better > supported there. > > All that said... I've always done like someone else posted and drilled > straight through, flat to flat. And I've broken off my share of bits > doing it, particularly when I've done it using a hand drill. > > Mark > > On Mon, Feb 4, 2013 at 9:12 PM, PJ McGarvey wrote: >> Nope, I didn't even realize that was something people were doing - and I'm >> wondering why (though I'm guessing something to do with the strength of the >> bolt head for torquing?). >> Maybe a thicker drill bit wouldn't have a problem bending and breaking so >> easily, almost seems like you're asking for trouble by using that guide and >> with such a small bit. From james.f.juhas at snet.net Tue Feb 5 18:50:56 2013 From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas) Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2013 20:50:56 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I originally posted this question. While the jig presumably can be used on bolt heads, my interest was for locking nuts, not bolt heads, with safety wire. The applications for this include locking the nuts on an external oil pump where the cover is mounted over studs, generally light torque situations. Another method I have used is a castled nut and a hole through the end of the thread on a bolt, but that's not always feasible on the end of a stud. Sent via iPad Jim Juhas On Feb 5, 2013, at 9:49 AM, Mark Andy wrote: > Howdy, > > As to "why?" I'm guessing its "don't have to drill as much". Going > through a corner of a bolt head seems like it'd be a heck of a lot > less material to remove. > > As for how to actually drill it... I would think it'd be pretty > sensitive to what drills you were using and what feed rates. Seems > like since you're catching the corner on an angle, it would be pretty > easy to overfeed it, causing the drill to take too much of a bite and > snap. Is that what's happening, or is it something else? Might have > a similar problem coming out, but the bit should be even better > supported there. > > All that said... I've always done like someone else posted and drilled > straight through, flat to flat. And I've broken off my share of bits > doing it, particularly when I've done it using a hand drill. > > Mark > > On Mon, Feb 4, 2013 at 9:12 PM, PJ McGarvey wrote: >> Nope, I didn't even realize that was something people were doing - and I'm >> wondering why (though I'm guessing something to do with the strength of the >> bolt head for torquing?). >> Maybe a thicker drill bit wouldn't have a problem bending and breaking so >> easily, almost seems like you're asking for trouble by using that guide and >> with such a small bit. >> >>> From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com >>> CC: shop-talk at autox.team.net >>> Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 11:02:58 -0800 >>> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide >>> >>>> Not sure if there's any secret here. I've drilled a dozen >>>> 1/8" safety wire holes in Grade 8 bolts before using a single >>>> cobalt bit in a drill press, and without the tool you linked >>>> to - >>> >>> But did you start on the corner of the bolt head? That's what the >> linked-to >>> tool is designed to do; and it has a guide right next to the bolt head to >>> hold the drill on-center to the corner. Seems to me that even a cobalt bit >>> is going to grab the corner of the bolt head and bind or break; unless you >>> grind a small flat for the bit to start into. >>> >>> -- Randall >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_mcgarvey at hotmail.com >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/marka at maracing.com > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/james.f.juhas at snet.net From arvidj at visi.com Wed Feb 6 07:27:39 2013 From: arvidj at visi.com (Arvid Jedlicka) Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2013 08:27:39 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide In-Reply-To: <510EC043.5020407@snet.net> References: <510EC043.5020407@snet.net> Message-ID: <3CB0CBD7324A4176928EE17CDA65EE81@HP62011> Based on the single review on Amazon it seems like even if you do get it to drill a hole it may be "useless". http://www.amazon.com/Safety-Pliers-Guide-Block-Universal/dp/B005SUVTDY/ref=pd_sbs_indust_5 and from this video ... 26 seconds into the video ... the holes do look "interesting" ... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1X0sIbucjko -----Original Message----- From: Jim Juhas Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 1:53 PM To: Shop Talk List ; MGVR at yahoogroups.com Subject: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide I have one of these: http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?PRODUCT_ID=MT002 and I have been unable to successfully drill the proper hole into a bolt head or nut using this. I keep breaking the tip of the drill so I lose the cutting edge of the drill before I can get it to make a hole. Have any of you been able to make this work? _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/arvidj at visi.com From gsteve at hammatt.com Mon Feb 11 14:29:05 2013 From: gsteve at hammatt.com (Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA) Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 13:29:05 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Parts for vise Message-ID: Ibm looking for 2 items, both accomplish the same function on a vise (bviceb for our British members ). The bTb nut that locks the visebs rotation, as illustrated in the dwg below (assuming the dwg makes it onto the list) is one item. The other item (no example shown) accomplishes the same function but instead of the cross-sliding bTb, there is a vertical slot milled into the top of the pinch nut. A cross drilled hole with pin holds a flip-over piece of flat stock that is used as the lever for tightening the locking nut on the vise base. My problem may be a lack of knowledge of terms. Hard to search if Ibm not using the correct words. Checked Grainger, McMaster, vise companies, etc. all to no avail. Appreciate any assistance. Thanks. Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA From pethier at comcast.net Mon Feb 11 15:09:57 2013 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 22:09:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] Parts for vise In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1347526493.397418.1360620597066.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Drawings don't work on the list. flickr.com is free. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier at comcast.net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica http://www.mnautox.com http://www.mntriumphs.org ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" > To: "Shop Talk" > Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 3:29:05 PM > Subject: [Shop-talk] Parts for vise > Ibm looking for 2 items, both accomplish the same function > on a vise (bviceb for our British members ). The bTb > nut that locks the visebs rotation, as illustrated in the dwg > below (assuming the dwg makes it onto the list) is one item. > The other item (no example shown) accomplishes the same > function but instead of the cross-sliding bTb, there is a vertical > slot milled into the top of the pinch nut. A cross drilled hole > with pin holds a flip-over piece of flat stock that is used as > the lever for tightening the locking nut on the vise base. > My problem may be a lack of knowledge of terms. Hard to > search if Ibm not using the correct words. Checked Grainger, > McMaster, vise companies, etc. all to no avail. > > Appreciate any assistance. > Thanks. From eric at megageek.com Mon Feb 11 15:53:23 2013 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 17:53:23 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Sticky brake Message-ID: I have a 2003 Toyota spyder that has a driver's side rear brake that freezes close in cold weather. The pads are fine and the cable isn't binding. What can I do to fix it? Thanks. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson From mistertwo at sbcglobal.net Mon Feb 11 16:10:22 2013 From: mistertwo at sbcglobal.net (Rand E) Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 15:10:22 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Shop-talk] Sticky brake In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1360624222.48648.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Replace the brake cable. The cable gets water inside then it freezes and won't let the brake disengage. This seems to have been an issue with all generations of MR2. Randy ________________________________ From: "eric at megageek.com" To: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net Sent: Mon, February 11, 2013 5:06:15 PM Subject: [Shop-talk] Sticky brake I have a 2003 Toyota spyder that has a driver's side rear brake that freezes close in cold weather. The pads are fine and the cable isn't binding. What can I do to fix it? Thanks. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mistertwo at sbcglobal.net From gsteve at hammatt.com Mon Feb 11 17:20:54 2013 From: gsteve at hammatt.com (Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA) Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 16:20:54 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Parts for vise (with photo links) In-Reply-To: <1347526493.397418.1360620597066.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1347526493.397418.1360620597066.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <734ACFB50BD54449974C50CB8F811ABA@StevePC> http://www.powertoolsdirect.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab3 3525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/r/irwin-record-swivel-base-for-pro-entry-vice.jpg http://www.make-your-own-fishing-lures.com/images/work-bench-vise.jpg The above images of a bswivel lock nutb with sliding bTb handle is one item I am looking for. http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss111/GeorgiaHybrid/Matco%20Tool%20Cart/Re cord_01.jpg The second type of bSwivel Lockb is shown on the above photo link. Ibve just found this photo and Ibm going into the world of Record Vices (theybre made in England). Still looking for baftermarketb sources for these two types of nuts, even though the Reed nut now looks more like a bolt to me. Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA From: pethier at comcast.net Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 2:09 PM To: Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA Cc: Shop Talk Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Parts for vise Drawings don't work on the list. flickr.com is free. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier at comcast.net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica http://www.mnautox.com http://www.mntriumphs.org ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" > To: "Shop Talk" > Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 3:29:05 PM > Subject: [Shop-talk] Parts for vise > Ibm looking for 2 items, both accomplish the same function > on a vise (bviceb for our British members ). The bTb > nut that locks the visebs rotation, as illustrated in the dwg > below (assuming the dwg makes it onto the list) is one item. > The other item (no example shown) accomplishes the same > function but instead of the cross-sliding bTb, there is a vertical > slot milled into the top of the pinch nut. A cross drilled hole > with pin holds a flip-over piece of flat stock that is used as > the lever for tightening the locking nut on the vise base. > My problem may be a lack of knowledge of terms. Hard to > search if Ibm not using the correct words. Checked Grainger, > McMaster, vise companies, etc. all to no avail. > > Appreciate any assistance. > Thanks. ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus Database: 2639/6074 - Release Date: 02/01/13 Internal Virus Database is out of date. From battmain at yahoo.com Mon Feb 11 18:36:51 2013 From: battmain at yahoo.com (Battmain) Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 17:36:51 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Shop-talk] Sticky brake In-Reply-To: <1360624222.48648.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1360624222.48648.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1360633011.37916.YahooMailNeo@web140005.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> X2. I recall this being an issue when I was active on the MR2 list. The list is still running as far as I know. I believe the issue was the rubber boot that let water in, and that water freezes when everything cools down. List info here: http://www.mr2.com/mailman/listinfo/mr2_mr2.com B >________________________________ > From: Rand E >To: eric at megageek.com; shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net >Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 6:10 PM >Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sticky brake > >Replace the brake cable. The cable gets water inside then it freezes and won't >let the brake disengage. This seems to have been an issue with all generations >of MR2. > >(snip) From mark at bradakis.com Mon Feb 11 19:02:03 2013 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 19:02:03 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Team.Net Notes Message-ID: <5119A29B.2000300@bradakis.com> One thing I have done to counteract the recent flurry of hijacked email addresses sending bad stuff through the the list is change the list settings for number of allowed recipients. Most of them include at least half a dozen or so addresses, maybe more, in each message as they go through the victim's address list. I've lowered the limit to 3. While this will stop a fair amount of the bad stuff from getting sent to the lists, it will also delay some legitimate messages. If folks send off nested replies with many recipients their mail will be held, waiting for me to approve it and send it on. I'll work on being more diligent about going through the pending admin requests [ 7,438 at the moment ] to separate the wheat from the chaff. And an advance notice - the annual fund drive will be coming up in a month or so, I will try and get all the forum and FTP issues resolved before asking for contributions. Never ending chores - I think I'll ask the man in charge for a raise! mjb. From hillman at planet-torque.com Mon Feb 11 20:43:13 2013 From: hillman at planet-torque.com (David Hillman) Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 22:43:13 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Shop-talk] Sticky brake In-Reply-To: <1360633011.37916.YahooMailNeo@web140005.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1360624222.48648.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> <1360633011.37916.YahooMailNeo@web140005.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Mon, 11 Feb 2013, Battmain wrote: > X2. I recall this being an issue when I was active on the MR2 list. The list > is still running as far as I know. I believe the issue was the rubber boot > that let water in, and that water freezes when everything cools down. That List is very low traffic these days. You'll have better luck on mr2oc.com. All eight MR2s that I've owned have had a frozen handbrake cable at some point... except, of course, my current ice racer which has been practically encased in ice, but never had that problem. But I thought Eric said the cable wasn't the problem on his Spyder? -- David Hillman From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Feb 11 22:59:56 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 21:59:56 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Parts for vise (with photo links) In-Reply-To: <734ACFB50BD54449974C50CB8F811ABA@StevePC> Message-ID: <4C.36.25887.45AD9115@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Here are shorter versions of Steve's links: First type of lock handle: http://goo.gl/IUuSD http://goo.gl/NmpYV Second type: http://goo.gl/1r8on Unfortunately, I've never seen parts like that for sale separately, except as repair parts. Either one would be easy enough to make, though, especially if they don't need to be hardened. (I'm pretty sure the ones on my cheap Chinese vice aren't hardened, and they've taken all the abuse I've given them for over 30 years.) -- Randall From eric at megageek.com Tue Feb 12 03:26:29 2013 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2013 05:26:29 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Sticky brake In-Reply-To: Message-ID: David writes... > But I thought Eric said the cable wasn't the problem on his Spyder? When the brake is frozen, I can move the handle up and down w/out resistance. I would image that if the cable as frozen, the hand brake lever wouldn't move. I was able to free it up by gently prying the brake pad away from the rotor this last time when the brake was frozen. Thanks again for all the help. I'm still considering the new cable as a "try it" method. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson From eric at megageek.com Tue Feb 12 03:32:15 2013 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2013 05:32:15 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Parts for vise (with photo links) In-Reply-To: <4C.36.25887.45AD9115@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: Not to hijack this thread, But just last week I decided to 'restore' a vice that I was given to me from a friend. It was a cheap China vise, but I figure it only need to be sanded and then repainted so I spent an evening with it. Since I was putting it on my welding table, it would get beat up anyway. Once I sand blasted the old paint off, I couldn't believe what I saw. The entire vice was pitted metal. But at the factory they bondo the entire thing to make it look smooth. It really opened my eyes to just how cheap some things can be made. So, of course I had to rebondo the entire vice. In the end, it came out pretty neat. (I did a 2 tone paint job with a few bare metal accents! ) 8>) I'm just sharing. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson From mg_garage at comcast.net Tue Feb 12 04:24:53 2013 From: mg_garage at comcast.net (gordies garage) Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2013 06:24:53 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Sticky brake In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9FCD036AC2924D57AFCAA8A3AA4C1EE8@stargate> With sufficient water in the brake system, it is possible that it freezes in the caliper just enough to seize your pads. When was the last time you did a brake fluid flush? Gordie -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2013 5:26 AM To: Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sticky brake > David writes... > >> But I thought Eric said the cable wasn't the problem on his Spyder? > > > When the brake is frozen, I can move the handle up and down w/out > resistance. I would image that if the cable as frozen, the hand brake > lever wouldn't move. > > I was able to free it up by gently prying the brake pad away from the > rotor this last time when the brake was frozen. > > Thanks again for all the help. I'm still considering the new cable as a > "try it" method. > > Eric P > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson From pethier at comcast.net Tue Feb 12 07:05:03 2013 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2013 14:05:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] Sticky brake In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1973015575.406806.1360677903769.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- Original Message ----- > From: eric at megageek.com > To: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net > Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2013 4:26:29 AM > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sticky brake > When the brake is frozen, I can move the handle up and down w/out > resistance. What you are describing is a corroded brake cable. We know all about that here in the Salt Capital of the World. I would image that if the cable as frozen, the hand brake > lever wouldn't move. Quite the reverse. Brake cable is rusty and sticks. You yank up the cable to set the brake. The cable sticks. The parking-brake return spring is not as strong as you are, and is unable to overcome the sticktion in the cable. > I was able to free it up by gently prying the brake pad away from the > rotor this last time when the brake was frozen. Consistent with above. > Thanks again for all the help. I'm still considering the new cable as > a > "try it" method. I'm considering it the "cure-it" method. My MG Midget had a zerk fitting on the middle of the parking-brake cable. A shot of grease there meant no parking-brake-cable problems ever. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier at comcast.net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica http://www.mnautox.com http://www.mntriumphs.org From markmiller at threeboysfarm.com Tue Feb 12 20:55:09 2013 From: markmiller at threeboysfarm.com (Mark Miller) Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2013 19:55:09 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Good MG midget design?!?! was: Sticky brake Message-ID: <<>> I owned a midget for a couple of years and this is the first time I ever heard anyone say anything good about their engineering. I certainly never did. Mark Miller Ducking and covering from the onslaught of (likely) flawed parts heaving their way towards my head From pethier at comcast.net Tue Feb 12 22:18:15 2013 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2013 05:18:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] Good MG midget design?!?! was: Sticky brake In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <793752340.422874.1360732695591.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Just about the best steering and gearchange (shortening the stick helps) of any car. What's not to like? Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier at comcast.net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica http://www.mnautox.com http://www.mntriumphs.org ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Mark Miller" > To: shop-talk at autox.team.net > Cc: pethier at comcast.net > Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2013 9:55:09 PM > Subject: Good MG midget design?!?! was: Sticky brake > << cable. > A shot of grease there meant no parking-brake-cable problems ever.>>> > > I owned a midget for a couple of years and this is the first time I > ever > heard anyone say anything good about their engineering. I certainly > never > did. > > Mark Miller > Ducking and covering from the onslaught of (likely) flawed parts > heaving > their way towards my head From arvidj at visi.com Wed Feb 13 09:11:58 2013 From: arvidj at visi.com (Arvid Jedlicka) Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2013 10:11:58 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Sticky brake In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: If I am not mistaken that defines exactly what happens with the "frozen cable". Water gets into the cable housing and freezes. When you apply the hand brake there is tremendous leverage and you can easily apply enough force to overcome the freeze and set the parking brake. Return a few hours later and things have refrozen but the only force available to pull the cable back thru the housing is the spring at the caliper end. Not nearly enough to overcome the frozen cable. Therefore the brake does not release and the lever moves about the cabin freely as the spring force that normally provides the resistance you feel is being held up by the frozen cable. Options include: Do not use the parking brake in cold weather ... use the parking brake but include "gentle prying" as part of the 'release parking brake' incantation ... try to remove the water from the cable ... replace the cable as the rubber boots that are suppose to prevent water from getting in there in the first place may be shot. If I recall correctly, when I replaced mine I shot a lot of motorcycle cable lubricant into the new ones on my '93 MR2 in an effort to stave of the inevitable water entry as long as possible. Arvid -----Original Message----- From: eric at megageek.com Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2013 4:26 AM To: shop-talk at Autox.Team.Net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sticky brake David writes... > But I thought Eric said the cable wasn't the problem on his Spyder? When the brake is frozen, I can move the handle up and down w/out resistance. I would image that if the cable as frozen, the hand brake lever wouldn't move. I was able to free it up by gently prying the brake pad away from the rotor this last time when the brake was frozen. Thanks again for all the help. I'm still considering the new cable as a "try it" method. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/arvidj at visi.com From lee at automate-it.com Sat Feb 16 14:55:05 2013 From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels) Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 15:55:05 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Sanding cylinders on drill press In-Reply-To: <5108B105.9090208@milleredp.com> References: <5108B105.9090208@milleredp.com> Message-ID: <57f4447e8665b4a10005be87aeb6b6d3.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> I have a "mini" Craftsman drill press that's useful for relatively small projects. I've had it for several years and use it occasionally. It came with several "cylinders" for sanding, but I have no idea what these are really good for. I tossed them up on the shelf when I set up the press and they've been there ever since. I came across them again to day when cleaning up. See a photo here: http://www.automate-it.com/photos/0sanding.jpg I assume there's a use for which they're ideally suited - what would that be? thanks, Lee From parkanzky at gmail.com Sat Feb 16 15:05:39 2013 From: parkanzky at gmail.com (Paul Parkanzky) Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 17:05:39 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Sanding cylinders on drill press In-Reply-To: <57f4447e8665b4a10005be87aeb6b6d3.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> References: <5108B105.9090208@milleredp.com> <57f4447e8665b4a10005be87aeb6b6d3.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> Message-ID: I inherited boxes of those of all different lengths and diameters from my father. He used them any time he had to smooth the edges on small pieces when he did woodworking. For instance, to finish up wooden shelf brackets or similar. -Paul On Sat, Feb 16, 2013 at 4:55 PM, Lee Daniels wrote: > I have a "mini" Craftsman drill press that's useful for relatively small > projects. I've had it for several years and use it occasionally. It came > with > several "cylinders" for sanding, but I have no idea what these are really > good > for. I tossed them up on the shelf when I set up the press and they've been > there ever since. I came across them again to day when cleaning up. See a > photo here: > http://www.automate-it.com/photos/0sanding.jpg > I assume there's a use for which they're ideally suited - what would that > be? > > thanks, > Lee From ejrussell at mebtel.net Sat Feb 16 15:11:41 2013 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (ejrussell at mebtel.net) Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 17:11:41 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Sanding cylinders on drill press Message-ID: <20130216171141.0ugpxxtu53uoook0@webmail2.centurytel.net> Quoting Lee Daniels : > I assume there's a use for which they're ideally suited - what would that be? Umm, sanding concave curves... I use similar items frequently on woodworking projects. If you can use one hand to hold the project piece and the other to move the drill press spindle up & down you'll get an even finer finish. I also made an auxillary table with a hole in it so the sanding drum can project below the surface slightly - that way the entire edge gets sanded without having the sanding drum contacting the table. Eric Russell Mebane, NC From eric at megageek.com Sat Feb 16 16:05:53 2013 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 18:05:53 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Auto thermometers and clocks Message-ID: I am looking for an add-on clock and external thermometer for my truck. Anyone know of one. Ideally, it would be hard wired to the truck (read ) and it would be back lit. (one that came on with the truck would be perfect.) Thanks. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson From phoenix722 at comcast.net Sat Feb 16 16:40:44 2013 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike) Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 15:40:44 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw: Auto thermometers and clocks Message-ID: Eric, I can't offer much on your search, but maybe someone out there knows where I can find an altimeter that is made for putting in/on the dash. I haven't seen anything anywhere. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2013 3:05 PM Subject: [Shop-talk] Auto thermometers and clocks >I am looking for an add-on clock and external thermometer for my truck. > Anyone know of one. > > Ideally, it would be hard wired to the truck (read ) and it > would be back lit. (one that came on with the truck would be perfect.) > > Thanks. > > Eric P > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/phoenix722 at comcast.net From bkahler1 at gmail.com Sat Feb 16 16:51:24 2013 From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 18:51:24 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw: Auto thermometers and clocks In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I've been looking at this one but haven't bought one yet. http://www.altimeters.net/altaltilinq.html Brad On Sat, Feb 16, 2013 at 6:40 PM, Mike wrote: > Eric, I can't offer much on your search, but maybe someone out there knows > where I can find an altimeter that is made for putting in/on the dash. I > haven't seen anything anywhere. > > Mike > > ----- Original Message ----- From: > To: > Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2013 3:05 PM > Subject: [Shop-talk] Auto thermometers and clocks > > > I am looking for an add-on clock and external thermometer for my truck. >> Anyone know of one. >> >> Ideally, it would be hard wired to the truck (read ) and it >> would be back lit. (one that came on with the truck would be perfect.) >> >> Thanks. >> >> Eric P >> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational >> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph >> Waldo Emerson >> ______________________________**_________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** >> options/shop-talk/phoenix722@**comcast.net >> > ______________________________**_________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/shop-talk/bkahler1@**gmail.com From bk13 at earthlink.net Sat Feb 16 16:58:23 2013 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 15:58:23 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Sanding cylinders on drill press In-Reply-To: <57f4447e8665b4a10005be87aeb6b6d3.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> References: <5108B105.9090208@milleredp.com> <57f4447e8665b4a10005be87aeb6b6d3.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> Message-ID: <51201D1F.2040709@earthlink.net> Lee - they are great for sanding curved edges that you cut with a jig, band, or scroll saw. Take a piece of thick plywood or a 1x and cut a hole about 1/2" bigger than the sanding bit you are using and clamp it to the drill press table. Raise the table so the edge of the bit is below the board with the hole and sand away. Start at low speed, especially with the larger sanding bits. Use the biggest bit that fits the curve for the smoothest results. Brian On 2/16/2013 1:55 PM, Lee Daniels wrote: > I have a "mini" Craftsman drill press that's useful for relatively small > projects. I've had it for several years and use it occasionally. It came with > several "cylinders" for sanding, but I have no idea what these are really good > for. I tossed them up on the shelf when I set up the press and they've been > there ever since. I came across them again to day when cleaning up. See a > photo here: > http://www.automate-it.com/photos/0sanding.jpg > I assume there's a use for which they're ideally suited - what would that be? > > thanks, > Lee > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Feb 16 17:02:34 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 16:02:34 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw: Auto thermometers and clocks In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <7F.23.11869.61E10215@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > Eric, I can't offer much on your search, but maybe someone > out there knows where I can find an altimeter that is made > for putting in/on the dash. If you Google for "dash altimeter" (without the quotes), you'll get lots of hits. I didn't see any designed to mount in the dash, but lots and lots designed to mount on top. This is a typical example: http://goo.gl/pAjtH As an alternative, you might look into a GPS unit that displays altitude. They have to solve for it internally, the only question is whether it will display it or not. Since the GPS is not affected by barometric pressure, it should be more accurate. -- Randall From jblair1948 at cox.net Sat Feb 16 17:10:41 2013 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 19:10:41 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Auto thermometers and clocks In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20130216190740.04c8eee8@cox.net> At 06:05 PM 2/16/2013, eric at megageek.com wrote: >I am looking for an add-on clock and external thermometer for my truck. >Anyone know of one. Check your local walmart store. My kids got me one for Xmas < $10 http://www.walmart.com/ip/Bell-Lighted-In-Out-Thermometer-Clock/14324182 John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy: e pluribus Unum, "from many, one." In God We Trust Liberty - the power of choosing, thinking, and acting for oneself; freedom from control or restriction From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Feb 16 18:41:15 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 17:41:15 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw: Auto thermometers and clocks In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <5F.F3.25866.73530215@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > Figure +/- 75 feet for most > situations. Wow, is consumer GPS really that bad? I'll admit I'm out of touch, since I work in a higher accuracy field; but we can generally hit within a foot (20 cm RMS) even with just WAAS corrections. And we get all kinds of heat if we're off by even 6" with our global correction service. Local network RTK is even better. -- Randall From fishplate at gmail.com Sat Feb 16 19:07:56 2013 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 21:07:56 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw: Auto thermometers and clocks In-Reply-To: <5F.F3.25866.73530215@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> References: <5F.F3.25866.73530215@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: On Sat, Feb 16, 2013 at 8:41 PM, Randall wrote: > Wow, is consumer GPS really that bad? The average dashboard GPS is lucky to get within a hundred feet. It uses an algorithm that assumes you are on a roadway to put your car icon in the right place... > I'll admit I'm out of touch, since I > work in a higher accuracy field; but we can generally hit within a foot (20 > cm RMS) even with just WAAS corrections. And we get all kinds of heat if > we're off by even 6" with our global correction service. Local network RTK > is even better. Having spent some time in that field myself, I know just what you mean. With GPS plus a correction service, I was able to use the last recorded position to go back out later and find the receiver battery that fell off the tractor without anyone noticing. The system took me to within 6 inches of where the battery was half-buried in the tall grass. But our Trimble R6 base and rover could do better than that...I've been able to locate plot corners from previous year's experiments by navigating to the spot and digging directly underneath the base of the rover pole. From tputland at charter.net Sat Feb 16 19:14:58 2013 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 21:14:58 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw: Auto thermometers and clocks Message-ID: <104229e3.494c50.13ce5eece8d.Webtop.47@charter.net> I can't add anything else either but I'd be interested in most of the below with a compass added....... tim On Sat, Feb 16, 2013 at 5:40 PM, Mike wrote: > Eric, I can't offer much on your search, but maybe someone out there > knows where I can find an altimeter that is made for putting in/on the > dash. I haven't seen anything anywhere. > > Mike > > ----- Original Message ----- From: > To: > Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2013 3:05 PM > Subject: [Shop-talk] Auto thermometers and clocks > > >> I am looking for an add-on clock and external thermometer for my >> truck. >> Anyone know of one. >> >> Ideally, it would be hard wired to the truck (read ) >> and it >> would be back lit. (one that came on with the truck would be >> perfect.) >> >> Thanks. >> >> Eric P >> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a >> rational >> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." >> Ralph >> Waldo Emerson >> _______________________________________________ From doug at dougbraun.com Sat Feb 16 20:40:36 2013 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 22:40:36 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Sanding cylinders on drill press In-Reply-To: <51201D1F.2040709@earthlink.net> References: <5108B105.9090208@milleredp.com> <57f4447e8665b4a10005be87aeb6b6d3.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> <51201D1F.2040709@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Or rotate the table way off to one side, so the drum can project a bit below the table. Doug On Sat, Feb 16, 2013 at 6:58 PM, Brian Kemp wrote: > Take a piece of thick plywood or a 1x and cut a hole about 1/2" bigger > than the sanding bit you are using and clamp it to the drill press table. > Raise the table so the edge of the bit is below the board with the hole > and sand away. From doug at dougbraun.com Sat Feb 16 20:42:38 2013 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 22:42:38 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Auto thermometers and clocks In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Time to browse the venerable J.C. Whitney catalog... Doug On Sat, Feb 16, 2013 at 6:05 PM, wrote: > I am looking for an add-on clock and external thermometer for my truck. > Anyone know of one. > > Ideally, it would be hard wired to the truck (read ) and it > would be back lit. (one that came on with the truck would be perfect.) From phoenix722 at comcast.net Sat Feb 16 20:57:10 2013 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike) Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 19:57:10 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw: Auto thermometers and clocks References: <104229e3.494c50.13ce5eece8d.Webtop.47@charter.net> Message-ID: <9A185ED2D94F4D0F802B48892F41937D@Mike> My experience with onboard compasses (compassi?) is not so great. Last one I had was accurate to about plus or minus 1800. I'm sure there are better ones out there, but it is difficult to install in a car and expect much accuracy. Mike =================== ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim" To: "Shop Talk" Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2013 6:14 PM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fw: Auto thermometers and clocks >I can't add anything else either but I'd be interested in most of the below >with a compass added....... > tim From phoenix722 at comcast.net Sat Feb 16 21:23:24 2013 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike) Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 20:23:24 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw: Fw: Auto thermometers and clocks Message-ID: Lets try 180 degrees. ================= ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike" To: "Tim" Cc: "Shop Talk" Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2013 7:57 PM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fw: Auto thermometers and clocks > My experience with onboard compasses (compassi?) is not so great. Last > one I had was accurate to about plus or minus 1800. I'm sure there are > better ones out there, but it is difficult to install in a car and expect > much accuracy. > > Mike > =================== > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Tim" > To: "Shop Talk" > Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2013 6:14 PM > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fw: Auto thermometers and clocks > > >>I can't add anything else either but I'd be interested in most of the >>below with a compass added....... >> tim > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/phoenix722 at comcast.net From jibjib at att.net Sun Feb 17 09:24:31 2013 From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks) Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2013 08:24:31 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw: Auto thermometers and clocks In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <03E83583EAF64D589B143A8D2730CF97@EntCentPC> Many of the newer GPS' have altitude as a screen display. OTOH mine has read as low as -19 near the ocean. It's close, but it's calculated off several satellites, so YMMV. For me, it's good enough and sometimes amusing. Clock and outside temp: There are numerous $5-$20 solutions. Find one for a home. Yes, they take batteries, but you will change then once a year. If you want hardwired, stepping 12v down to 3v won't be too hard. -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2013 3:41 PM To: Shop Talk Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw: Auto thermometers and clocks Eric, I can't offer much on your search, but maybe someone out there knows where I can find an altimeter that is made for putting in/on the dash. I haven't seen anything anywhere. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2013 3:05 PM Subject: [Shop-talk] Auto thermometers and clocks >I am looking for an add-on clock and external thermometer for my truck. > Anyone know of one. > > Ideally, it would be hard wired to the truck (read ) and it > would be back lit. (one that came on with the truck would be perfect.) > > Thanks. > > Eric P > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/phoenix722 at comcast.net _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib at att.net From peterwmurray at gmail.com Mon Feb 18 09:26:18 2013 From: peterwmurray at gmail.com (Peter Murray) Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2013 11:26:18 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Auto thermometers and clocks In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Your smartphone should be able to tell you much of this info. My Android phone has an app called "Altitude" that provides this information using the built-in GPS in my Motorola Atrix 4G. It doesn't report accuracy values, but once it settles on a reading, it doesn't move much. I am sure there are better apps. My Blackberry Curve of 2007 would report accuracy values of 3m - so I don't think the GPS in a modern smartphone is all that inaccurate. I know that the item below satisfies none of the requirements that Inch stated, but this is another item to put in any (modern-ish) vehicle... http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/index.htm On Sat, Feb 16, 2013 at 6:05 PM, wrote: > I am looking for an add-on clock and external thermometer for my truck. > Anyone know of one. > > Ideally, it would be hard wired to the truck (read ) and it > would be back lit. (one that came on with the truck would be perfect.) > > Thanks. > > Eric P > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray at gmail.com From jniolon at att.net Mon Feb 18 09:47:38 2013 From: jniolon at att.net (John Niolon) Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2013 10:47:38 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] chain hoist certification Message-ID: I work for a pipefitting/construction company and in our work we use a lot of manual chainfalls. I'm looking for the equipment that will allow us to test and certify these chain falls before we send them out on a job... I know we'll probably have to send someone to training on the test required, but I'm looking for some information on the equipment (scales, frames, etc ) used to make the tests.. any of you guys deal with this stuff ??? thanks John From fortee9er at yahoo.com Mon Feb 18 19:41:10 2013 From: fortee9er at yahoo.com (Jorge Garcia) Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2013 18:41:10 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Shop-talk] Dent puller Message-ID: <1361241670.12529.YahooMailNeo@web161704.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> In the show 'Wheeler Dealers' they have used a dent puller that I would like to find and buy. It works by spot welding a number of fingers that are then attached to the "puller" by hooks. The puller has handle that pulls on the hooks by turning a handle. It looks very simple to operate. Has anyone seen the show and the use of this dent puller? If you know where I can purchase this tool please let me knw. I've already checcked Harbor Freight and Amazon's websites and they did not have it. Thanks From doug at dougbraun.com Mon Feb 18 19:53:01 2013 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2013 21:53:01 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Fwd: Dent puller In-Reply-To: <1361241670.12529.YahooMailNeo@web161704.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1361241670.12529.YahooMailNeo@web161704.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Go to Eastwood.com and search for "Uni-Wire". Doug ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Jorge Garcia Date: Mon, Feb 18, 2013 at 9:41 PM Subject: [Shop-talk] Dent puller To: shop-talk In the show 'Wheeler Dealers' they have used a dent puller that I would like to find and buy. It works by spot welding a number of fingers that are then attached to the "puller" by hooks. The puller has handle that pulls on the hooks by turning a handle. It looks very simple to operate. Has anyone seen the show and the use of this dent puller? If you know where I can purchase this tool please let me knw. I've already checcked Harbor Freight and Amazon's websites and they did not have it. Thanks ____________________ From ronnie.day at gmail.com Mon Feb 18 19:55:57 2013 From: ronnie.day at gmail.com (Ronnie Day) Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2013 20:55:57 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dent puller In-Reply-To: <1361241670.12529.YahooMailNeo@web161704.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1361241670.12529.YahooMailNeo@web161704.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: It is very cool and remember researching it the first time Ed used it. Got the name (which I no longer remember) off of the unit and plugged it into Google. I seem to recall it was a UK/European company and it was way too rich for my pocket book. It's basically a fancy stud gun that tack welds the tabs with the slots along a crease in a body panel you want to pull. Then a rod is inserted in the slots and the crease pulled out. I remember stud guns starting to show up on the Spike/Powerblock shows two or three years ago. These tack a short piece of rod where you want to pull out a panel. You then use the slide hammer that comes with the kit to pull the crease out I think prices start at around $300 or so from Eastwood. Not as elegant as the setup on Wheelers Dealers, but much more affordable for hobbyists. FWIW, Ron On Mon, Feb 18, 2013 at 8:41 PM, Jorge Garcia wrote: > In the show 'Wheeler Dealers' they have used a dent puller that I would > like to find and buy. It works by spot welding a number of fingers that are > then attached to the "puller" by hooks. The puller has handle that pulls on > the hooks by turning a handle. It looks very simple to operate. Has anyone > seen the show and the use of this dent puller? If you know where I can > purchase this tool please let me knw. I've already checcked Harbor Freight > and Amazon's websites and they did not have it. > Thanks > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ronnie.day at gmail.com From doug at dougbraun.com Mon Feb 18 20:12:29 2013 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2013 22:12:29 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dent puller In-Reply-To: References: <1361241670.12529.YahooMailNeo@web161704.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I got a generic stud-welder setup from Harbor Freight a few years ago, for $99 or so, and it has been very useful. It seems like 80% of the dents I have needed to fix were in places where there was no access to the back of the panel, or the back was covered with undercoating, or I would have had to remove an interior panel for access. In situations like this, the stud welder is very quick and easy to use. Doug On Mon, Feb 18, 2013 at 9:55 PM, Ronnie Day wrote: > > I remember stud guns starting to show up on the Spike/Powerblock shows two > or three years ago. These tack a short piece of rod where you want to pull > out a panel. You then use the slide hammer that comes with the kit to pull > the crease out I think prices start at around $300 or so from Eastwood. Not > as elegant as the setup on Wheelers Dealers, but much more affordable for > hobbyists. From eric at megageek.com Fri Feb 22 16:16:45 2013 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2013 18:16:45 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Off-topic-post alert. Anyone know of a good credit check database for landlords? Message-ID: Hello all, Since it's cold out and traffic here is real low, I'd thought I'd bother the list with a non-shop related question... It's been years since I had to replace a tenant, so I don't know which credit background check databases are good for landlords doing checks. I have name, DOB, and SSN. Free is great, but I don't mind paying a modest fee. Thanks in advance. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson From dmscheidt at gmail.com Fri Feb 22 21:56:21 2013 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2013 22:56:21 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Off-topic-post alert. Anyone know of a good credit check database for landlords? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Fri, Feb 22, 2013 at 5:16 PM, wrote: > Hello all, > > Since it's cold out and traffic here is real low, I'd thought I'd bother > the list with a non-shop related question... > > It's been years since I had to replace a tenant, so I don't know which > credit background check databases are good for landlords doing checks. > > I have name, DOB, and SSN. > > Free is great, but I don't mind paying a modest fee. > > You'll need the current address, and possibly previous addresses. You also need permission to run a credit check; your state may require you to get it writing, and it's a good idea to, even if they don't. My co-op association (via the management company) has used several different companies, and they all suck. That's not helpful, but It's what we've found. Some of it is data related, some states and counties don't report data electronically, or do it rather sporadically. So criminal (mostly misdemeanor) and small scale civil (like, oh, evictions) might no't show up or show up horribly wrong. Some of the reporting services are tied to one of the credit bureaus, and so won't use the other two's data. If they're wrong, you may make a bad decision. -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From jandkstone99 at msn.com Tue Feb 26 13:30:10 2013 From: jandkstone99 at msn.com (Jim Stone) Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2013 14:30:10 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Inexpensive framing nailer/compressor Message-ID: I would like to buy a framing nailer. I dont want to spend a lot as this is not something I will use often, but after recently borrowing one I realize how nice they are when needed. I would like to keep the total costs under $200 and I am weighing my options. Does anyone here have any recommendations? I could certainly buy new at HF and keep within my budget, but would want to know that someone else had bought one and found it ok. Thanks. From ronnie.day at gmail.com Tue Feb 26 14:00:13 2013 From: ronnie.day at gmail.com (Ronnie Day) Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2013 15:00:13 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Inexpensive framing nailer/compressor In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Keep an eye on the Home Depot and Lowes ads. We got a couple of refurbed Ridgids from HD several years ago for around $170 each, IIRC. It was going to cost us more than the total to rent one locally over two weekends and the week in between. On Tue, Feb 26, 2013 at 2:30 PM, Jim Stone wrote: > I would like to buy a framing nailer. I don t want to spend a lot as this > is > not something I will use often, but after recently borrowing one I realize > how > nice they are when needed. I would like to keep the total costs under $200 > and I am weighing my options. Does anyone here have any recommendations? > I > could certainly buy new at HF and keep within my budget, but would want to > know that someone else had bought one and found it ok. > Thanks. > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ronnie.day at gmail.com From bk13 at earthlink.net Tue Feb 26 20:31:21 2013 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2013 19:31:21 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Inexpensive framing nailer/compressor In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <512D7E09.7010700@earthlink.net> I have a couple year old HF framing nailer and it works ok. I also have a box of HF nails of the maximum gauge that the gun can use. The nails are kind of thin compared to a 10 penny nail and I've had a few curve due to the grain of the 2x lumber. Last summer I had a contractor help me rebuild a 45' long cantilevered balcony and used his Rigid nailer. For an engineered sheer panel, we needed to shoot 10 penny nails ($75 a box) that my HF nailer couldn't hold. His gun shot every nail perfect with consistent results. Mine didn't. While the HF nailer didn't have any jams, head depth was very inconsistent. There was also a noticeable difference in ergonomics. The Rigid nailer felt more comfortable, better balanced, and easier to use. His gun also shot my cheap nails for blocking, though he did comment on their flexibility. When I used my nailer for a balance beam for my gymnast daughter, the nailer worked fine. I had a lamination of trimmed framing lumber that I glued and clamped then filled with nails so I could move on to the next piece, so all nails were straight in and not at an edge. Only one bent enough to come out the side, so that went well. This is definetly a case of you get what you pay for. I spent about $70 when I got mine after the sale price and a 20% off coupon. I think he said his was $250. Doing it over, I'd probable look a little higher if I was going to use it a bunch. I also caution you to watch out for nailers that use clipped head nails instead of full head nails. Some building departments don't allow clipped head nails. Hopefully I have the wording right here. Instead of a full round head, part of the head is missing, I would assume to allow the nails to be closer together. Brian On 2/26/2013 12:30 PM, Jim Stone wrote: > I would like to buy a framing nailer. I dont want to spend a lot as this is > not something I will use often, but after recently borrowing one I realize how > nice they are when needed. I would like to keep the total costs under $200 > and I am weighing my options. Does anyone here have any recommendations? I > could certainly buy new at HF and keep within my budget, but would want to > know that someone else had bought one and found it ok. > Thanks. > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net From KVacek at Ameritech.net Tue Feb 26 20:39:50 2013 From: KVacek at Ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2013 21:39:50 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Which diodes for a battery charger? Message-ID: <000c01ce149c$19504df0$4bf0e9d0$@Ameritech.net> My old Schumacher battery charger has been dead for years. Used to be able to go to the factory for new diodes, fixed inexpensively while I waited, but they moved away. I'd like to repair it with better diodes this time. I'll also put a muffin fan into the case to help cool the diodes and the huge transformer. The present diodes are little buttons that appear to just be clamped between a brass contact plate and an indentation in the aluminum flat plate heat sink. They're Motorola diodes, MR2502 on one transformer lead (a pair) and W9312 on the other transformer lead. The charger is 10 amps continuous, 30 amps fast boost (duty cycle 10 minutes on, 12 minutes off), and 50 amps motor starting (duty cycle 2 minutes on, 5 minutes off) I look at diodes and see all sorts of ratings, and don't know what's better and what's overkill. May I please have a recommendation as to what rating, etc.? A part number to order from XXX company would be even better. Also - are there positive and negative orientations to the diodes in there bow? They're not marked, and if their polarity is related to label orientation, then one pair is mounted with both oriented the same direction, while the pair on the other lead are oriented opposite each other. Thanks! Karl From KVacek at Ameritech.net Tue Feb 26 20:44:53 2013 From: KVacek at Ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2013 21:44:53 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] A different battery charger question Message-ID: <001101ce149c$cdea6f70$69bf4e50$@Ameritech.net> Working on my old Schumacher battery charger got me to thinking about another battery charger I have. It came from a Clarke floor machine, and it's a heavy amperage 24-volt charger. No fan, just a transformer and a rectifier circuit. But it's 24 volts, and there are NOT alternate taps on the transformer. To drop it to 12 volts, could I use a 2:1 step-down transformer in the power line in, and thus run the transformer on 55 volts input? Or is there any other simple way to convert this heavy charger to 12 volts? Thanks! Karl From cavanadd at frontier.com Tue Feb 26 20:54:52 2013 From: cavanadd at frontier.com (Dave C) Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2013 19:54:52 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Inexpensive framing nailer/compressor In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <512D838C.2020701@frontier.com> I got a little twin tank compressor from Harbor Freight which seems to work ok. For a nailer, I got a used Hitachi NR83A2 from a pawn shop; they had a bunch of them and I got the best looking one. That's the only nailer I ever seem to see the guys on framing crews use and they seem totally bulletproof. It's also easy to get parts and nails for them. On 2/26/2013 12:30 PM, Jim Stone wrote: > I would like to buy a framing nailer. I dont want to spend a lot as this is > not something I will use often, but after recently borrowing one I realize how > nice they are when needed. I would like to keep the total costs under $200 > and I am weighing my options. Does anyone here have any recommendations? I > could certainly buy new at HF and keep within my budget, but would want to > know that someone else had bought one and found it ok. > Thanks. > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd at frontier.com From pethier at comcast.net Tue Feb 26 21:41:50 2013 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2013 04:41:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] A different battery charger question In-Reply-To: <001101ce149c$cdea6f70$69bf4e50$@Ameritech.net> Message-ID: <1880244413.636943.1361940110311.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I believe that would work. I expect that the current you require would be a lot less than this monster can handle. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier at comcast.net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica http://www.mnautox.com http://www.mntriumphs.org ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Karl Vacek" > To: shop-talk at autox.team.net > Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 9:44:53 PM > Subject: [Shop-talk] A different battery charger question > Working on my old Schumacher battery charger got me to thinking about > another battery charger I have. It came from a Clarke floor machine, > and > it's a heavy amperage 24-volt charger. No fan, just a transformer and > a > rectifier circuit. But it's 24 volts, and there are NOT alternate taps > on > the transformer. > > > > To drop it to 12 volts, could I use a 2:1 step-down transformer in the > power > line in, and thus run the transformer on 55 volts input? Or is there > any > other simple way to convert this heavy charger to 12 volts? > > > > Thanks! > Karl > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pethier at comcast.net From dmscheidt at gmail.com Tue Feb 26 21:54:05 2013 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2013 22:54:05 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Which diodes for a battery charger? In-Reply-To: <000c01ce149c$19504df0$4bf0e9d0$@Ameritech.net> References: <000c01ce149c$19504df0$4bf0e9d0$@Ameritech.net> Message-ID: On Tue, Feb 26, 2013 at 9:39 PM, Karl Vacek wrote: > > > Also - are there positive and negative orientations to the diodes in there > bow? They're not marked, and if their polarity is related to label > orientation, then one pair is mounted with both oriented the same direction, > while the pair on the other lead are oriented opposite each other. I'd have to spend some time with a catalog to figure out what you've got, but diodes definitely are polarity sensitive. That's pretty much the definition of a diode. An ideal diode passes current with zero resistance one direction, and with infinite resistance the other. It seems unlikely the factory would have repaired it wrong, but who knows. Tyically, there's a stripe or band or blob of paint at the cathode side (negative). sometimes it's an arrow. Some use the length of the pins to tell you, but I don't remember if there's a standard way to do that or not. I've run across circuits that have had totally unlabeled diodes too. Those you test..... -- David Scheidt dmscheidt at gmail.com From pethier at comcast.net Tue Feb 26 22:14:18 2013 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2013 05:14:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] Which diodes for a battery charger? In-Reply-To: <000c01ce149c$19504df0$4bf0e9d0$@Ameritech.net> Message-ID: <179341647.637419.1361942058878.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Any diode tough enough to be used in a battery charger will not be damaged by an ohm-meter, so you can figure out the polarity that way. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier at comcast.net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica http://www.mnautox.com http://www.mntriumphs.org ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Karl Vacek" > To: shop-talk at autox.team.net > Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 9:39:50 PM > Subject: [Shop-talk] Which diodes for a battery charger? > My old Schumacher battery charger has been dead for years. Used to be > able > to go to the factory for new diodes, fixed inexpensively while I > waited, but > they moved away. I'd like to repair it with better diodes this time. > I'll > also put a muffin fan into the case to help cool the diodes and the > huge > transformer. > > > > The present diodes are little buttons that appear to just be clamped > between > a brass contact plate and an indentation in the aluminum flat plate > heat > sink. They're Motorola diodes, MR2502 on one transformer lead (a pair) > and > W9312 on the other transformer lead. The charger is 10 amps > continuous, 30 > amps fast boost (duty cycle 10 minutes on, 12 minutes off), and 50 > amps > motor starting (duty cycle 2 minutes on, 5 minutes off) > > > > I look at diodes and see all sorts of ratings, and don't know what's > better > and what's overkill. May I please have a recommendation as to what > rating, > etc.? A part number to order from XXX company would be even better. > > > > Also - are there positive and negative orientations to the diodes in > there > bow? They're not marked, and if their polarity is related to label > orientation, then one pair is mounted with both oriented the same > direction, > while the pair on the other lead are oriented opposite each other. > > > > Thanks! > > Karl > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pethier at comcast.net From mark at bradakis.com Tue Feb 26 22:32:18 2013 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2013 22:32:18 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Which diodes for a battery charger? In-Reply-To: References: <000c01ce149c$19504df0$4bf0e9d0$@Ameritech.net> Message-ID: <512D9A62.9070504@bradakis.com> > Also - are there positive and negative orientations to the diodes in > there bow? They're not marked, and if their polarity is related to label orientation, > then one pair is mounted with both oriented the same direction, while the pair on > the other lead are oriented opposite each other. Are you familiar with a circuit diagram for a diode bridge? Most likely that is what you are looking at here. mjb. From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Feb 26 23:25:32 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2013 22:25:32 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] A different battery charger question In-Reply-To: <001101ce149c$cdea6f70$69bf4e50$@Ameritech.net> Message-ID: <77.3A.06772.6D6AD215@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > To drop it to 12 volts, could I use a 2:1 step-down > transformer in the power line in, and thus run the > transformer on 55 volts input? Should work, but you might wind up spending as much on the step-down as the proper transformer would cost. Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Feb 27 00:01:03 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2013 23:01:03 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Which diodes for a battery charger? In-Reply-To: <000c01ce149c$19504df0$4bf0e9d0$@Ameritech.net> Message-ID: > The charger is 10 amps > continuous, 30 amps fast boost (duty cycle 10 minutes on, 12 > minutes off), and 50 amps motor starting (duty cycle 2 > minutes on, 5 minutes off) That's interesting. I have an old Schumacher charger with very similar, if not identical, ratings; but it only uses two diodes. I guess they decided that two more diodes were cheaper than the extra transformer winding. Anyway, when the original diodes gave out (and it was given to me), I repaired it with the diode plate from an old car alternator. Car alternators are 3 phase and usually only one diode fails, so you can still get a full-wave (single phase) rectifier out of a bad alternator. And they are some seriously heavy duty diodes, especially if you arrange for some air flow across the mounting plate. I just hung it on some standoffs, and let the air convect over it. That had to be over 20 years ago now, and it's still going strong. In fact, I used it to start the TR3 yesterday (looks like maybe my battery is going bad). But a MR2502 is apparently only rated at 25 amps, which seems way low for a 50 amp charger. http://goo.gl/5OBz8 Maybe that's why they didn't last very long? If you don't want to mess with alternator diodes, here's some that should be good enough. 60 amps continuous, over 1000 amps peak. $3 each. http://goo.gl/MJHBO Here's a datasheet http://goo.gl/3iYq0 Be sure to use insulators where appropriate, and a little heat sink compound wouldn't hurt either. -- Randall From jandkstone99 at msn.com Wed Feb 27 06:26:29 2013 From: jandkstone99 at msn.com (Jim Stone) Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2013 07:26:29 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] Inexpensive framing nailer/compressor In-Reply-To: <512D838C.2020701@frontier.com> References: , <512D838C.2020701@frontier.com> Message-ID: Thanks guys. I have a bit of time, so I will keep my eyes open (and maybe stop by a pawn shop or two) and try to find something better than HF and keep that as a fallback if I run out of time. > Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2013 19:54:52 -0800 > From: cavanadd at frontier.com > To: jandkstone99 at msn.com > CC: shop-talk at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Inexpensive framing nailer/compressor > > I got a little twin tank compressor from Harbor Freight which seems to > work ok. For a nailer, I got a used Hitachi NR83A2 from a pawn shop; > they had a bunch of them and I got the best looking one. That's the only > nailer I ever seem to see the guys on framing crews use and they seem > totally bulletproof. It's also easy to get parts and nails for them. > > > On 2/26/2013 12:30 PM, Jim Stone wrote: > > I would like to buy a framing nailer. I dont want to spend a lot as this is > > not something I will use often, but after recently borrowing one I realize how > > nice they are when needed. I would like to keep the total costs under $200 > > and I am weighing my options. Does anyone here have any recommendations? I > > could certainly buy new at HF and keep within my budget, but would want to > > know that someone else had bought one and found it ok. > > Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd at frontier.com From darmstrong at nexicom.net Wed Feb 27 09:08:09 2013 From: darmstrong at nexicom.net (Doug Armstrong) Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2013 11:08:09 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Find Your First Car Brochure Message-ID: <70C7190386FB4696B47166B8E5D6E677@CAD> I'm not sure if this has been around before. This is really cool. Find your first car. This has to be one of the neatest web sites whether you have gasoline in your veins or not. This is a website featuring the original factory brochures for almost every American car. Pick the manufacturer, the year and the model. These are American models I think. www.lov2xlr8.no/broch1.html Doug Armstrong No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2013.0.2899 / Virus Database: 2639/6123 - Release Date: 02/22/13 From gsteve at hammatt.com Wed Feb 27 12:16:04 2013 From: gsteve at hammatt.com (Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA) Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2013 11:16:04 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Corrosion protection for tools Message-ID: <5ECE883FF9CF42D0A8CEE045AE617165@StevePC> Ibm rebuilding two vises (actually one is a vise, the other is a vice...itbs European). The Wilton vise has a handle that I canbt remove so Ibm looking for some bare metal corrosion protection. The other vice (6b Sambre et Meuse from Belgium) has both the main handle and the locking swivel nut handles that may also need similar bare metal protection. I remember a product called Boeshield T-9 (or similar), but was wondering if anyone has had any experience with itbs use on tools, etc. Thanks. Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA From pethier at comcast.net Wed Feb 27 12:25:41 2013 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2013 19:25:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] Find Your First Car Brochure In-Reply-To: <70C7190386FB4696B47166B8E5D6E677@CAD> Message-ID: <2121185114.646364.1361993141595.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Found 1932 Auburn, but did not find a picture of my dad's straight-8 Cabriolet. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier at comcast.net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica http://www.mnautox.com http://www.mntriumphs.org ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Doug Armstrong" > To: "Shop Talk List" > Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 10:08:09 AM > Subject: [Shop-talk] Find Your First Car Brochure > I'm not sure if this has been around before. > > > > This is really cool. Find your first car. This has to be one of the > neatest > web sites whether you have gasoline in your veins or not. This is a > website > featuring the original factory brochures for almost every American > car. Pick > the manufacturer, the year and the model. These are American models I > think. > > > www.lov2xlr8.no/broch1.html > > > Doug Armstrong > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2013.0.2899 / Virus Database: 2639/6123 - Release Date: > 02/22/13 > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pethier at comcast.net From tputland at charter.net Wed Feb 27 13:27:32 2013 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2013 15:27:32 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Shop-talk] Host file Message-ID: <5c432b0f.3cf1dd.13d1d56aced.Webtop.48@charter.net> Someone on this list had provided a "dummy" host file that makes banner adds not display. (I am totally wording this wrong) Anyway, can that person please send it to me (agian)? Thanks!! tim From peterwmurray at gmail.com Wed Feb 27 13:49:43 2013 From: peterwmurray at gmail.com (Peter Murray) Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2013 15:49:43 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Host file In-Reply-To: <5c432b0f.3cf1dd.13d1d56aced.Webtop.48@charter.net> References: <5c432b0f.3cf1dd.13d1d56aced.Webtop.48@charter.net> Message-ID: Tim- I use a plugin for Firefox called Adblock Plus. It works very well and very transparently for me. Eric Petrevich (aka "Inch") had posted the below link to his hosts file on 18-October 2012. http://www.megageek.com/funstuff/fundoc.nsf/d601ad3d05e57888852566c00054521c/a60a238fb11251238525788c0044bcce?OpenDocument&Highlight=0,host I tried the link again just now, but couldn't connect to his site. The DNS is working, but the shared server on which it is hosted is giving an error. -Peter On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 3:27 PM, Tim wrote: > Someone on this list had provided a "dummy" host file that makes banner > adds not display. (I am totally wording this wrong) Anyway, can that > person please send it to me (agian)? > > Thanks!! > tim > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray at gmail.com From peterwmurray at gmail.com Wed Feb 27 14:49:53 2013 From: peterwmurray at gmail.com (Peter Murray) Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2013 16:49:53 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Host file In-Reply-To: References: <5c432b0f.3cf1dd.13d1d56aced.Webtop.48@charter.net> Message-ID: Looks like Eric's site is back up again, if you want to try to grab that file. -Peter On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 3:49 PM, Peter Murray wrote: > Tim- > > I use a plugin for Firefox called Adblock Plus. It works very well and > very transparently for me. > > Eric Petrevich (aka "Inch") had posted the below link to his hosts file on > 18-October 2012. > > > http://www.megageek.com/funstuff/fundoc.nsf/d601ad3d05e57888852566c00054521c/a60a238fb11251238525788c0044bcce?OpenDocument&Highlight=0,host > > I tried the link again just now, but couldn't connect to his site. The DNS > is working, but the shared server on which it is hosted is giving an error. > > -Peter > > > > On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 3:27 PM, Tim wrote: > >> Someone on this list had provided a "dummy" host file that makes banner >> adds not display. (I am totally wording this wrong) Anyway, can that >> person please send it to me (agian)? >> >> Thanks!! >> tim >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray at gmail.com From ericm at lne.com Wed Feb 27 15:13:28 2013 From: ericm at lne.com (Eric Murray) Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2013 14:13:28 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Host file In-Reply-To: References: <5c432b0f.3cf1dd.13d1d56aced.Webtop.48@charter.net> Message-ID: <512E8508.7080801@lne.com> Adblock works much better than a static hosts file. That's 1996 technology. Eric On 02/27/2013 12:49 PM, Peter Murray wrote: > Tim- > > I use a plugin for Firefox called Adblock Plus. It works very well and very > transparently for me. > > Eric Petrevich (aka "Inch") had posted the below link to his hosts file on > 18-October 2012. > > http://www.megageek.com/funstuff/fundoc.nsf/d601ad3d05e57888852566c00054521c/a60a238fb11251238525788c0044bcce?OpenDocument&Highlight=0,host > > I tried the link again just now, but couldn't connect to his site. The DNS > is working, but the shared server on which it is hosted is giving an error. > > -Peter > > > > On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 3:27 PM, Tim wrote: > >> Someone on this list had provided a "dummy" host file that makes banner >> adds not display. (I am totally wording this wrong) Anyway, can that >> person please send it to me (agian)? >> >> Thanks!! >> tim >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ericm at lne.com From eric at megageek.com Wed Feb 27 16:00:42 2013 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2013 18:00:42 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw: Host file Message-ID: For anyone else that might want the file, you can d/l it at my website... >http://www.megageek.com/funstuff/fundoc.nsf/d601ad3d05e57888852566c00054521c/a60a238fb11251238525788c0044bcce?OpenDocument&Highlight=0,host< It's a proven spam and ad fighting technique! (I make no money on this and it cost you nothing, I just hate spam and I want to see it gone!) Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson Someone on this list had provided a "dummy" host file that makes banner adds not display. (I am totally wording this wrong) Anyway, can that person please send it to me (agian)? Thanks!! tim _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eric at megageek.com From eric at megageek.com Wed Feb 27 16:02:56 2013 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2013 18:02:56 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Host file In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Can you check again? It seems to work for me. (BTW, it's not a share hosted file. All my webpages and files are hosted on my personal webserver, so if my connection is up, it should all be there.) I was having some funny issues at work today trying to soft VPN in. I'll take a look later, my SO is really sick and she needs me by her side. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson Tim- I use a plugin for Firefox called Adblock Plus. It works very well and very transparently for me. Eric Petrevich (aka "Inch") had posted the below link to his hosts file on 18-October 2012. http://www.megageek.com/funstuff/fundoc.nsf/d601ad3d05e57888852566c00054521c/a60a238fb11251238525788c0044bcce?OpenDocument&Highlight=0,host I tried the link again just now, but couldn't connect to his site. The DNS is working, but the shared server on which it is hosted is giving an error. -Peter On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 3:27 PM, Tim wrote: > Someone on this list had provided a "dummy" host file that makes banner > adds not display. (I am totally wording this wrong) Anyway, can that > person please send it to me (agian)? From lists at dinospider.com Wed Feb 27 16:16:55 2013 From: lists at dinospider.com (Mike Rambour) Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2013 15:16:55 -0800 Subject: [Shop-talk] Host file In-Reply-To: <512E8508.7080801@lne.com> References: <5c432b0f.3cf1dd.13d1d56aced.Webtop.48@charter.net> <512E8508.7080801@lne.com> Message-ID: <512E93E7.70007@dinospider.com> 1996 technology that I got from Eric "inch" works REALLY great for me, way better than Adblock ever did, since Adblock stops the ads, the hosts file stops everything. Your mileage may vary but sometimes the old technology is just better than the new stuff.... mike On 02/27/2013 02:13 PM, Eric Murray wrote: > Adblock works much better than a static hosts file. That's 1996 > technology. > > Eric > > > On 02/27/2013 12:49 PM, Peter Murray wrote: >> Tim- >> >> I use a plugin for Firefox called Adblock Plus. It works very well >> and very >> transparently for me. >> >> Eric Petrevich (aka "Inch") had posted the below link to his hosts >> file on >> 18-October 2012. >> >> http://www.megageek.com/funstuff/fundoc.nsf/d601ad3d05e57888852566c00054521c/a60a238fb11251238525788c0044bcce?OpenDocument&Highlight=0,host >> >> >> I tried the link again just now, but couldn't connect to his site. >> The DNS >> is working, but the shared server on which it is hosted is giving an >> error. >> >> -Peter >> >> >> >> On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 3:27 PM, Tim wrote: >> >>> Someone on this list had provided a "dummy" host file that makes banner >>> adds not display. (I am totally wording this wrong) Anyway, can that >>> person please send it to me (agian)? >>> >>> Thanks!! >>> tim >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray at gmail.com >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ericm at lne.com > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/lists at dinospider.com From eric at megageek.com Wed Feb 27 16:04:47 2013 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2013 18:04:47 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Host file In-Reply-To: <512E8508.7080801@lne.com> Message-ID: Yes, there are much better and newer ways to do it, but this is a free way that I found works better than most ad on products and it doesn't cost CPU cycles like some ad ons. Note, I still use the ad ons as well, but I'm a 'belt and suspenders" guy when it come to security and protection. 8>) Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson Eric Murray Sent by: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net 02/27/2013 17:22 To shop-talk at autox.team.net cc Subject Re: [Shop-talk] Host file Adblock works much better than a static hosts file. That's 1996 technology. Eric On 02/27/2013 12:49 PM, Peter Murray wrote: > Tim- > > I use a plugin for Firefox called Adblock Plus. It works very well and very > transparently for me. > > Eric Petrevich (aka "Inch") had posted the below link to his hosts file on > 18-October 2012. > > http://www.megageek.com/funstuff/fundoc.nsf/d601ad3d05e57888852566c00054521c/a60a238fb11251238525788c0044bcce?OpenDocument&Highlight=0,host > > I tried the link again just now, but couldn't connect to his site. The DNS > is working, but the shared server on which it is hosted is giving an error. > > -Peter > > > > On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 3:27 PM, Tim wrote: > >> Someone on this list had provided a "dummy" host file that makes banner >> adds not display. (I am totally wording this wrong) Anyway, can that >> person please send it to me (agian)? >> >> Thanks!! >> tim >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ericm at lne.com _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eric at megageek.com From wmc_st at xxiii.com Wed Feb 27 19:46:11 2013 From: wmc_st at xxiii.com (Wayne) Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2013 21:46:11 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] OT: truck & car fax question Message-ID: <512EC4F3.9010206@xxiii.com> Hey Guys, sorry for an OT post, But I am stuck in the market for a beater inexpensive vehicle. Was looking at a used 2001 Mazda B2500 truck. Which I guess is really a Ford Ranger more or less. Anyone have an unlimited CarFax account that could run a VIN for me? (pls reply off list) Or any general advice about that vehicle or engine. Would be my first time truck purchase. -Thanks, Wayne From tputland at charter.net Thu Feb 28 05:56:23 2013 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2013 07:56:23 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Shop-talk] Host file Message-ID: Worked for me. Thanks very much Eric! I hope your SO feels better soon!! tim On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 5:02 PM, eric at megageek.com wrote: > Can you check again? It seems to work for me. > > (BTW, it's not a share hosted file. All my webpages and files are > hosted on my personal webserver, so if my connection is up, it should > all be there.) > I was having some funny issues at work today trying to soft VPN in. > I'll take a look later, my SO is really sick and she needs me by her > side. > > Eric P > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a > rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your > territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson > > > Tim- > > I use a plugin for Firefox called Adblock Plus. It works very well and > very > transparently for me. > > Eric Petrevich (aka "Inch") had posted the below link to his hosts > file on > 18-October 2012. > > > http://www.megageek.com/funstuff/fundoc.nsf/d601ad3d05e57888852566c00054521c/a60a238fb11251238525788c0044bcce?OpenDocument&Highlight=0,host > > > I tried the link again just now, but couldn't connect to his site. The > DNS > is working, but the shared server on which it is hosted is giving an > error. > > -Peter > > > > On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 3:27 PM, Tim wrote: > >> Someone on this list had provided a "dummy" host file that makes >> banner >> adds not display. (I am totally wording this wrong) Anyway, can that >> person please send it to me (agian)? > _______________________________________________