From jhassall at blacksburg.net Wed Apr 3 19:36:51 2013 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2013 21:36:51 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Dell power supply strap Message-ID: <515CD933.7090802@blacksburg.net> Some time ago someone posted a request for the rubber strap on a Dell power supply. Contact me off list, I'll send it to you. jim -- Jim Hassall Blacksburg VA '63 TR4 in autox preparation 99% finished, 90% to go From mark at bradakis.com Thu Apr 11 00:32:38 2013 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 00:32:38 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] 22 and counting Message-ID: <51665906.6040009@bradakis.com> April 11th, 1991 - Team.Net becomes an official domain. For a few years before that, though, the basic foundation was getting built up. It has been a long ride from those days until now. We are still here. And we can continue on for who knows how many more years? If you'd like to help Team.Net continue, consider putting a few dollars towards keeping it on the air: http://www.team.net/donations.html mjb. From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com Thu Apr 11 20:58:56 2013 From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott) Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 22:58:56 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Is there an electrical engineer in the house? Message-ID: <51677870.5050107@gmail.com> I would like to build several warmer 'pots' for SWMBO. They'll be made from 1/8 inch aluminum sheet, and they'll about 3x6x3 inches each. They'll have a lid, so they're more like boxes, I suppose. They'll be used to keep fluid warmed to about 100 degrees. I'd like to use an electric heating element with a thermostat permanently set to that temperature, and it could go on the exterior bottom surface of the box. The only thing I don't know how to do is the wire grid and thermostat, switches, etc. What should I use to attach the wire to the box, that sort of thing. EE1101 was a long time ago, so I thought I'd ask you guys. Is this something that can be done? I don't mind if it takes a fair amount of work, I want these to be nice, and lasting. I just don't know where to start looking for the stuff, what to Google, etc. Thanks. Scott From bk13 at earthlink.net Thu Apr 11 21:26:14 2013 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 20:26:14 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Is there an electrical engineer in the house? In-Reply-To: <51677870.5050107@gmail.com> References: <51677870.5050107@gmail.com> Message-ID: <51677ED6.8010108@earthlink.net> Scott - Take a look at http://www.amazon.com/gp/bestsellers/kitchen/3737281/ref=pd_zg_hrsr_k_1_4_last This is a link for "Best Sellers in Chafing Dishes". I found this after a search for "food warmer" in appliances. Look at some of the buffet servers. I know buying this is not as much fun, but if something like this makes her happy, you could spend some time on a different project. Brian with more than enough projects for years On 4/11/2013 7:58 PM, Scott wrote: > I would like to build several warmer 'pots' for SWMBO. > > They'll be made from 1/8 inch aluminum sheet, and they'll about 3x6x3 > inches each. They'll have a lid, so they're more like boxes, I suppose. > > They'll be used to keep fluid warmed to about 100 degrees. > > I'd like to use an electric heating element with a thermostat > permanently set to that temperature, and it could go on the exterior > bottom surface of the box. > > The only thing I don't know how to do is the wire grid and thermostat, > switches, etc. What should I use to attach the wire to the box, that > sort of thing. > > EE1101 was a long time ago, so I thought I'd ask you guys. Is this > something that can be done? I don't mind if it takes a fair amount of > work, I want these to be nice, and lasting. I just don't know where to > start looking for the stuff, what to Google, etc. > > Thanks. > > Scott > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com Thu Apr 11 21:31:27 2013 From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott) Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 23:31:27 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Is there an electrical engineer in the house? In-Reply-To: <51677ED6.8010108@earthlink.net> References: <51677870.5050107@gmail.com> <51677ED6.8010108@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <5167800F.6090300@gmail.com> Yeah, I've spent the last six months looking for something to just buy. It doesn't exist. Besides, making them will earn me so much more in the 'thoughtfulness' category. On 4/11/2013 11:26 PM, Brian Kemp wrote: > Scott - Take a look at > > http://www.amazon.com/gp/bestsellers/kitchen/3737281/ref=pd_zg_hrsr_k_1_4_last > > This is a link for "Best Sellers in Chafing Dishes". I found this > after a search for "food warmer" in appliances. > > Look at some of the buffet servers. I know buying this is not as much > fun, but if something like this makes her happy, you could spend some > time on a different project. > > Brian with more than enough projects for years > > > On 4/11/2013 7:58 PM, Scott wrote: >> I would like to build several warmer 'pots' for SWMBO. >> >> They'll be made from 1/8 inch aluminum sheet, and they'll about 3x6x3 >> inches each. They'll have a lid, so they're more like boxes, I suppose. >> >> They'll be used to keep fluid warmed to about 100 degrees. >> >> I'd like to use an electric heating element with a thermostat >> permanently set to that temperature, and it could go on the exterior >> bottom surface of the box. >> >> The only thing I don't know how to do is the wire grid and >> thermostat, switches, etc. What should I use to attach the wire to >> the box, that sort of thing. >> >> EE1101 was a long time ago, so I thought I'd ask you guys. Is this >> something that can be done? I don't mind if it takes a fair amount of >> work, I want these to be nice, and lasting. I just don't know where >> to start looking for the stuff, what to Google, etc. >> >> Thanks. >> >> Scott >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net From scott.hall.personal at gmail.com Thu Apr 11 21:35:19 2013 From: scott.hall.personal at gmail.com (Scott) Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 23:35:19 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Is there an electrical engineer in the house? In-Reply-To: <51677F06.500@nycap.rr.com> References: <51677870.5050107@gmail.com> <51677F06.500@nycap.rr.com> Message-ID: <516780F7.7070502@gmail.com> Yeah, I've looked at food warmers (and cookers), those are the principle I want to copy. That or an electric blanket. So I guess I could ask the question: I want to make my own miniature electric blanket from wire (I don't want to buy something and cut it down), I want to keep it at a constant temperature, and I want to permanently affix it to a small plate of aluminum. Can anyone give me primer on how to do such a thing? What gauge wire to use, should I weave it in a mat, and what sort of switches and thermostats should I use? Or should I just hunt down an EE textbook and start reading? Thanks. On 4/11/2013 11:27 PM, skip albright wrote: > > a lot of fields, not to many concrete plans... > > > restaurant supply co > > > greenhouse supply co > > > they wont have the parts, but you can get ideas on how they keep > things warm > > > maybe lab supply companies? > > > how does a crockpot work? > > > we used to sell stick on, oil pan engine warmers, might be some help > in that field. > > > Skip > > > On 4/11/2013 10:58 PM, Scott wrote: >> I would like to build several warmer 'pots' for SWMBO. >> >> They'll be made from 1/8 inch aluminum sheet, and they'll about 3x6x3 >> inches each. They'll have a lid, so they're more like boxes, I suppose. >> >> They'll be used to keep fluid warmed to about 100 degrees. >> >> I'd like to use an electric heating element with a thermostat >> permanently set to that temperature, and it could go on the exterior >> bottom surface of the box. >> >> The only thing I don't know how to do is the wire grid and >> thermostat, switches, etc. What should I use to attach the wire to >> the box, that sort of thing. >> >> EE1101 was a long time ago, so I thought I'd ask you guys. Is this >> something that can be done? I don't mind if it takes a fair amount of >> work, I want these to be nice, and lasting. I just don't know where >> to start looking for the stuff, what to Google, etc. >> >> Thanks. >> >> Scott From kennedybc at comcast.net Thu Apr 11 22:00:51 2013 From: kennedybc at comcast.net (Brian Kennedy) Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 21:00:51 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Is there an electrical engineer in the house? In-Reply-To: <516780F7.7070502@gmail.com> References: <51677870.5050107@gmail.com> <51677F06.500@nycap.rr.com> <516780F7.7070502@gmail.com> Message-ID: Scott, F or C? F would be easier. Temperature control range? If you only need a few degrees, a simple bi-metallic thermal switch in series with the AC line should do. Here's a Digikey link, http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/67F100/723-1181-ND/1631948 for one of many. Or even easier, go to digikey.com and call them. I've found them to be very helpful. I think you can find a heating element with internal temperature control that will do what you want. Good luck. Brian K. On Apr 11, 2013, at 8:35 PM, Scott wrote: > Yeah, I've looked at food warmers (and cookers), those are the principle I want to copy. That or an electric blanket. > > So I guess I could ask the question: I want to make my own miniature electric blanket from wire (I don't want to buy something and cut it down), I want to keep it at a constant temperature, and I want to permanently affix it to a small plate of aluminum. > > Can anyone give me primer on how to do such a thing? What gauge wire to use, should I weave it in a mat, and what sort of switches and thermostats should I use? > > Or should I just hunt down an EE textbook and start reading? > > Thanks. > > On 4/11/2013 11:27 PM, skip albright wrote: >> >> a lot of fields, not to many concrete plans... >> >> >> restaurant supply co >> >> >> greenhouse supply co >> >> >> they wont have the parts, but you can get ideas on how they keep things warm >> >> >> maybe lab supply companies? >> >> >> how does a crockpot work? >> >> >> we used to sell stick on, oil pan engine warmers, might be some help in that field. >> >> >> Skip >> >> >> On 4/11/2013 10:58 PM, Scott wrote: >>> I would like to build several warmer 'pots' for SWMBO. >>> >>> They'll be made from 1/8 inch aluminum sheet, and they'll about 3x6x3 inches each. They'll have a lid, so they're more like boxes, I suppose. >>> >>> They'll be used to keep fluid warmed to about 100 degrees. >>> >>> I'd like to use an electric heating element with a thermostat permanently set to that temperature, and it could go on the exterior bottom surface of the box. >>> >>> The only thing I don't know how to do is the wire grid and thermostat, switches, etc. What should I use to attach the wire to the box, that sort of thing. >>> >>> EE1101 was a long time ago, so I thought I'd ask you guys. Is this something that can be done? I don't mind if it takes a fair amount of work, I want these to be nice, and lasting. I just don't know where to start looking for the stuff, what to Google, etc. >>> >>> Thanks. >>> >>> Scott From greg at gelhar.com Fri Apr 12 00:09:23 2013 From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 02:09:23 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Is there an electrical engineer in the house? In-Reply-To: <51677870.5050107@gmail.com> References: <51677870.5050107@gmail.com> Message-ID: Do you want to make your own, or would any of these work? http://www.mcmaster.com/#blanket-heaters/=ma8vbz Greg G. Osseo, MN > I would like to build several warmer 'pots' for SWMBO. > > They'll be made from 1/8 inch aluminum sheet, and they'll about 3x6x3 > inches each. They'll have a lid, so they're more like boxes, I suppose. > > They'll be used to keep fluid warmed to about 100 degrees. > > I'd like to use an electric heating element with a thermostat > permanently set to that temperature, and it could go on the exterior > bottom surface of the box. > > The only thing I don't know how to do is the wire grid and thermostat, > switches, etc. What should I use to attach the wire to the box, that > sort of thing. > > EE1101 was a long time ago, so I thought I'd ask you guys. Is this > something that can be done? I don't mind if it takes a fair amount of > work, I want these to be nice, and lasting. I just don't know where to > start looking for the stuff, what to Google, etc. > > Thanks. > > Scott From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Apr 12 01:31:59 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 00:31:59 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Is there an electrical engineer in the house? In-Reply-To: <516780F7.7070502@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1B.57.04559.968B7615@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > Can anyone give me primer on how to do such a thing? What > gauge wire to use, should I weave it in a mat, and what sort > of switches and thermostats should I use? What about using a pre-made element, like this: http://goo.gl/i7CGk If you really want to do it yourself, my approach might be to source some nichrome wire and epoxy it to the bottom of the plate. JB Weld would probably do, or there are purpose-made epoxies available. JB Weld says it is good to 500F continuous and you aren't going that high (if you don't go overboard on heater power). Lay down a fairly thick layer first and let it cure, to be sure the nichrome doesn't get too close to the aluminum (and cause a short). So pick how much power you want. I'm guessing that 60 watts should be plenty (after all, an Easy-Bake oven runs on 60 watts) so you can calculate resistance from ohms = volts * volts / watts. 60 watts would be about 240 ohms (using 120 volts as the design voltage). Now figure out about how much wire length you want, and go look for a wire that will give you something close to that. Say for the sake of argument that you wind up with 6' of wire in your design (more wire will spread the heat out better, which SWMBO will like); you want about 40 ohms/foot. Using the chart I found at http://goo.gl/3Rpqg, 38 AWG is just what you want. Here's a nice piece on fleabay for $4 http://goo.gl/GGxvk Brian already gave a link to a thermostat. Switches are available in dozens of styles, so pick the one that goes best with your design. I might go for a rotary switch mounted on the side, maybe with a flattish sort of knob, http://goo.gl/K9Oby But a rocker switch might look nice, too. I like this one, but you'd need to build a power supply for the LED, which might be more trouble than it's worth http://goo.gl/3D5lN Randall From jamesf at groupwbench.org Sat Apr 13 09:23:53 2013 From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin) Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2013 11:23:53 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Non-skid replacement for hardwood floor strip? Message-ID: <9A90E514-2D53-4C00-BCDE-5B63B5464505@groupwbench.org> I just put down some prefinished hardwood in my upstairs hallway, and I was slipping all over the place in socks. The piece that will go between the nosing at the top of the stairs and the rest of the flooring isn't quite a full width piece, so I've left it out until I get the nosing, but I'm thinking of putting in a non-skid thing as a last resort if I start sliding. Of course it has to look nice :-) I was thinking of a piece of perforated hardwood, but all I'm finding are soundproofing materials. It needs to be 3/4" thick like the flooring. I don't have a drill press so DIY 250 holes is not an option... Any thoughts? Actually something that incorporated the nosing too would be nice, so it isn't slippery. The rest of the stairs will have a carpet runner. thanks, From mbarre at juno.com Sat Apr 13 09:43:50 2013 From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2013 15:43:50 GMT Subject: [Shop-talk] Non-skid replacement for hardwood floor strip? Message-ID: <20130413.114350.6647.0@webmail13.vgs.untd.com> How about a coat of clear poly with some grit in it? MB ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Jim Franklin To: shop-talk List Subject: [Shop-talk] Non-skid replacement for hardwood floor strip? Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2013 11:23:53 -0400 I just put down some prefinished hardwood in my upstairs hallway, and I was slipping all over the place in socks. The piece that will go between the nosing at the top of the stairs and the rest of the flooring isn't quite a full width piece, so I've left it out until I get the nosing, but I'm thinking of putting in a non-skid thing as a last resort if I start sliding. Of course it has to look nice :-) I was thinking of a piece of perforated hardwood, but all I'm finding are soundproofing materials. It needs to be 3/4" thick like the flooring. I don't have a drill press so DIY 250 holes is not an option... Any thoughts? Actually something that incorporated the nosing too would be nice, so it isn't slippery. The rest of the stairs will have a carpet runner. thanks, _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mbarre at juno.com From eric at megageek.com Sat Apr 13 09:31:37 2013 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2013 11:31:37 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Non-skid replacement for hardwood floor strip? In-Reply-To: <9A90E514-2D53-4C00-BCDE-5B63B5464505@groupwbench.org> Message-ID: Just a thought, and it may not be close to what you are looking for... Today, on tractor forums they were talking about putting a *LIGHT* dusting of sand between spray paint coats to make surfaces slip-prof. Maybe a light dusting of sand in a clear top coat will work for your needs on whatever material you decide to use. Just a thought. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson I just put down some prefinished hardwood in my upstairs hallway, and I was slipping all over the place in socks. The piece that will go between the nosing at the top of the stairs and the rest of the flooring isn't quite a full width piece, so I've left it out until I get the nosing, but I'm thinking of putting in a non-skid thing as a last resort if I start sliding. Of course it has to look nice :-) I was thinking of a piece of perforated hardwood, but all I'm finding are soundproofing materials. It needs to be 3/4" thick like the flooring. I don't have a drill press so DIY 250 holes is not an option... Any thoughts? Actually something that incorporated the nosing too would be nice, so it isn't slippery. The rest of the stairs will have a carpet runner. thanks, _______________________________________________ From jamesf at groupwbench.org Sat Apr 13 10:18:02 2013 From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin) Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2013 12:18:02 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Non-skid replacement for hardwood floor strip? In-Reply-To: <20130413.114350.6647.0@webmail13.vgs.untd.com> References: <20130413.114350.6647.0@webmail13.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <85636DEA-7588-4E9B-AFA9-59B11AF758F9@groupwbench.org> Coupla people wrote: > How about a coat of clear poly with some grit in it? I have no idea what super space age finish is on there now and don't really want to mess with it. Plus, if I'm going to make something stand out such as a different finish, I don't want it to look like I'm trying to get it to match and failing, and I think gritty poly would look like that. I'd rather it looked purposeful. A cribbage board would be awesome but not at the top of the stairs :-) From bk13 at earthlink.net Sat Apr 13 11:41:05 2013 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2013 10:41:05 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Non-skid replacement for hardwood floor strip? In-Reply-To: <9A90E514-2D53-4C00-BCDE-5B63B5464505@groupwbench.org> References: <9A90E514-2D53-4C00-BCDE-5B63B5464505@groupwbench.org> Message-ID: <516998B1.6010705@earthlink.net> Jim - Look at something like this from the Home Depot web site: I searched for "non-skid". It sounds exactly what you want and the first two five star reviews are the same stair application. www.homedepot.com/p/t/203002764?catalogId=10053 Seal-Krete 3.2 oz. Clear Grip - Anti-Skid Additive Model # 402002 Internet # 203002764 $8.88 /EA-Each SEAL-KRETE Clear Grip is a durable, micronized polymeric aggregate developed for use as an anti-skid additive to floor paint or sealers. Because it's a lightweight plastic grit, Clear Grip remains suspended longer. It adds a slight texture to the finish without changing colors. It has excellent resistance to chemicals and detergents and helps extend paint life. Clear Grip can be used in water-based, solvent-based alkyd, urethane or epoxy coatings. - Mix with paint or sealers to as a measure of safety to slippery steps, stairs and walkways - Will not soften under normal heat exposure - Dries clear in sealers - Chemical and solvent resistant From the reviews: We have hardwood stairs in our house and we've had a few close calls when walking on them wearing socks. I lightly sanded the stairs, mixed some Clear Grip into a quart of urathane clear coat and painted it on. The stairs are much safer now and they look the same as they did before. ---- We needed to refinish our wooden stairs in our home. I had seen this product used on one of those many re-do your house shows, so we thought we would give it a try. We added the recommended amount to the clear polyurethane we used for the top of the steps. It mixed in very easily - and after it was good and dry, YEAH, NO LONGER SLIPPERY!! You cannot tell it is there unless you look closely. We HIGHLY recommend this product to anyone that worries about sliping on the stairs. Brian On 4/13/2013 8:23 AM, Jim Franklin wrote: > I just put down some prefinished hardwood in my upstairs hallway, and I was > slipping all over the place in socks. The piece that will go between the > nosing at the top of the stairs and the rest of the flooring isn't quite a > full width piece, so I've left it out until I get the nosing, but I'm thinking > of putting in a non-skid thing as a last resort if I start sliding. Of course > it has to look nice :-) > > I was thinking of a piece of perforated hardwood, but all I'm finding are > soundproofing materials. It needs to be 3/4" thick like the flooring. I don't > have a drill press so DIY 250 holes is not an option... > > Any thoughts? Actually something that incorporated the nosing too would be > nice, so it isn't slippery. The rest of the stairs will have a carpet runner. > > thanks, > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net From KVacek at Ameritech.net Sat Apr 13 13:08:37 2013 From: KVacek at Ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2013 14:08:37 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Non-skid replacement for hardwood floor strip? In-Reply-To: <9A90E514-2D53-4C00-BCDE-5B63B5464505@groupwbench.org> References: <9A90E514-2D53-4C00-BCDE-5B63B5464505@groupwbench.org> Message-ID: <001201ce387a$4e026b30$ea074190$@Ameritech.net> What about a strip of smooth rubber flooring, or rubber threshold? Installation options could range from a full rubber nosing to rabbeting a strip of rubber (flat or perhaps arched up like a threshold) into the wood nosing. Karl -----Original Message----- From: Jim Franklin Subject: [Shop-talk] Non-skid replacement for hardwood floor strip? I just put down some prefinished hardwood in my upstairs hallway, and I was slipping all over the place in socks. The piece that will go between the nosing at the top of the stairs and the rest of the flooring isn't quite a full width piece, so I've left it out until I get the nosing, but I'm thinking of putting in a non-skid thing as a last resort if I start sliding. Of course it has to look nice :-) I was thinking of a piece of perforated hardwood, but all I'm finding are soundproofing materials. It needs to be 3/4" thick like the flooring. I don't have a drill press so DIY 250 holes is not an option... Any thoughts? Actually something that incorporated the nosing too would be nice, so it isn't slippery. The rest of the stairs will have a carpet runner. From jandkstone99 at msn.com Sun Apr 14 07:27:44 2013 From: jandkstone99 at msn.com (Jim Stone) Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2013 08:27:44 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Anchoring railing posts Message-ID: My rental property currently has wrought iron railings along the steps leading to the front door and around the concrete deck that is in front of the door. The railings are solid, but pretty old and in need of a serious cleanup and coat of paint at best. It is also from two different eras, as I believe the railing at the top is original to the house (c1950) or close, while the steps is aluminum. The posts are all iron and very well anchored in the concrete. I could spend a couple of days with a wire brush on my angle grinder and get them cleaned up and repainted, but they are ugly and my wife would like to replace them. The deck is about 6 feet off the ground in front and 12 feet on the side by the driveway, so whatever we do has to be pretty sturdy. One option we are considering is to build a cedar railing around the deck. There are supports that are made for attaching wood posts to the concrete, but I have used them before and they don't feel solid enough to me, so I don't want to fully trust those. Here's what I am thinking: The current steel supports are 1" square tube. My thought is to remove the old railing but leave the posts in place. Clean them up with the wire brush and give them a coat of something to stop rust. Then, cut them off at about 12 inches and drill a slightly larger hole in the base of each support. Coat each post with an adhesive of some sort (maybe a 2-part epoxy) and set the posts in place. I might also use the commercial supports for added safety and buy ones that are open at the bottom or drill a matching hole in them, too. Does this sound like a good plan to the group, or is it one of my dumber ideas? Any thoughts will be appreciated. Our option is a vinyl or aluminum system, but that will get pretty pricey. Thanks, Jim p.s. This is the same house with the basement trap door that concerned me. That door is still there, but our summer renters were fine with us padlocking the door shut, so we get to put that problem off another year at least. From tputland at charter.net Sun Apr 14 11:11:06 2013 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2013 13:11:06 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] slow disposal drain Message-ID: <2df102dd.6b7744.13e09875fa5.Webtop.44@charter.net> I have a garbage disposal that drains slow unless you run it. While I am pretty sure I know what is causing it (build up in the pipe), I am hoping that I don't have to pull the drain pipe to clean it out.... So, that being said, does anyone know if there is something I can run down the drain that will clear out that build up? Regular drain cleaners have not worked.... Thanks! tim From bk13 at earthlink.net Sun Apr 14 11:55:00 2013 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2013 10:55:00 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Anchoring railing posts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <516AED74.1020204@earthlink.net> Jim, Two options for your consideration: 1 - If the railings are solid and your wife only doesn't like them based on the deteriorated finish, contact a local painting or iron works company. You may find that their estimate to come out and sandblast, prime, and paint is cheaper than new railing parts and your time. I have a mixture of railings as well and the only problem with the c1957 iron rail is rusting at the ground level where the previous owner didn't do maintenance. Another advantage of this is that you don't have to bring the railing in compliance with current building codes. Since it is a rental property, you also will not have a period of time with no railing since it can stay in place. 2. Look at an aluminum system to match the rest of the aluminum that you already have. I pulled a permit for a balcony repair (that turned into a replacement) and was required to replace the railing to bring it in compliance with current codes. I used a cable rail system from http://www.fsihp.com/products/aluminum-railing on my balcony. Their prices were very good and the product is decent. I did have trouble getting enough tension on the cables in my application, so would consider other vendors if you go the cable route if you have long lengths and corners. My project was a 45' long by 5' cantilevered balcony for 55' of total railing. I used fascia mounted posts because the balcony is a waterproof concrete and I didn't want any penetrations in the surface. They also have surface mount posts. I think their picket stile railing would be an easy application and may use them again when I get to other railing where obstructing the view is not an issue. Brian On 4/14/2013 6:27 AM, Jim Stone wrote: > My rental property currently has wrought iron railings along the steps leading > to the front door and around the concrete deck that is in front of the door. > The railings are solid, but pretty old and in need of a serious cleanup and > coat of paint at best. It is also from two different eras, as I believe the > railing at the top is original to the house (c1950) or close, while the steps > is aluminum. The posts are all iron and very well anchored in the concrete. From jibjib at att.net Sun Apr 14 12:19:02 2013 From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks) Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2013 11:19:02 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] slow disposal drain In-Reply-To: <2df102dd.6b7744.13e09875fa5.Webtop.44@charter.net> References: <2df102dd.6b7744.13e09875fa5.Webtop.44@charter.net> Message-ID: <1F4EEDB25A5F4986B1BABB6336C00B6F@EntCentPC> I'd give Hot water a go if you think the problem is in the connector pipe and it might be a fatty build up. Pour in a large container of hot water, while the hot water is running. I wouldn't run the disposal at this time, you want to give the hot water plenty of time to clear out the buildup. The idea is to overwhem the pipe with water and scour it clean. Conversely, you might just move the fat further down the pipe, which might not be a good thing. I've also run ice cubes down mine when it slowed. The cubes clean the heck out of the inside of the disposal. Citrus rinds clean really well too. -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tim Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2013 10:11 AM To: Shop Talk Subject: [Shop-talk] slow disposal drain I have a garbage disposal that drains slow unless you run it. While I am pretty sure I know what is causing it (build up in the pipe), I am hoping that I don't have to pull the drain pipe to clean it out.... So, that being said, does anyone know if there is something I can run down the drain that will clear out that build up? Regular drain cleaners have not worked.... Thanks! tim _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib at att.net From bjzwissler at gmail.com Sun Apr 14 14:17:23 2013 From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Benjamin Zwissler) Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2013 16:17:23 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] slow disposal drain In-Reply-To: <1F4EEDB25A5F4986B1BABB6336C00B6F@EntCentPC> References: <2df102dd.6b7744.13e09875fa5.Webtop.44@charter.net> <1F4EEDB25A5F4986B1BABB6336C00B6F@EntCentPC> Message-ID: I use the bacterial cleaners. It won't work immediately but will keep it clean indefinitely. It comes as a dry powder that you mix with warm water and pour down the drain. The bacteria eats the bio materials, including soap scum. I had a slow drain on my washer that was difficult to keep clear. The bacterial cleaner has kept it clean for years. If you put something down it that kills the bacteria you may to add them again. Ben...... On Sun, Apr 14, 2013 at 2:19 PM, Jack Brooks wrote: > I'd give Hot water a go if you think the problem is in the connector pipe > and it might be a fatty build up. Pour in a large container of hot water, > while the hot water is running. I wouldn't run the disposal at this time, > you want to give the hot water plenty of time to clear out the buildup. > The > idea is to overwhem the pipe with water and scour it clean. Conversely, > you > might just move the fat further down the pipe, which might not be a good > thing. > > I've also run ice cubes down mine when it slowed. The cubes clean the heck > out of the inside of the disposal. Citrus rinds clean really well too. > > -----Original Message----- > From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tim > Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2013 10:11 AM > To: Shop Talk > Subject: [Shop-talk] slow disposal drain > > I have a garbage disposal that drains slow unless you run it. While I am > pretty sure I know what is causing it (build up in the pipe), I am > hoping that I don't have to pull the drain pipe to clean it out.... > > So, that being said, does anyone know if there is something I can run > down the drain that will clear out that build up? Regular drain cleaners > have not worked.... > > Thanks! > tim > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib at att.net > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler at gmail.com From jibjib at att.net Sun Apr 14 15:22:21 2013 From: jibjib at att.net (Jack Brooks) Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2013 14:22:21 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] slow disposal drain In-Reply-To: References: <2df102dd.6b7744.13e09875fa5.Webtop.44@charter.net><1F4EEDB25A5F4986B1BABB6336C00B6F@EntCentPC> Message-ID: Yes, I agree 100% on the bugs Ben! I use them and should have discussed them here too. With the slow drain, I just felt it was good to start with getting it flowing better, as the bacteria are great for the long haul, but will take some time to clear out the current mess. _____ From: Benjamin Zwissler [mailto:bjzwissler at gmail.com] Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2013 1:17 PM To: Jack Brooks Cc: Shop Talk Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] slow disposal drain I use the bacterial cleaners. It won't work immediately but will keep it clean indefinitely. It comes as a dry powder that you mix with warm water and pour down the drain. The bacteria eats the bio materials, including soap scum. I had a slow drain on my washer that was difficult to keep clear. The bacterial cleaner has kept it clean for years. If you put something down it that kills the bacteria you may to add them again. Ben...... On Sun, Apr 14, 2013 at 2:19 PM, Jack Brooks wrote: I'd give Hot water a go if you think the problem is in the connector pipe and it might be a fatty build up. Pour in a large container of hot water, while the hot water is running. I wouldn't run the disposal at this time, you want to give the hot water plenty of time to clear out the buildup. The idea is to overwhem the pipe with water and scour it clean. Conversely, you might just move the fat further down the pipe, which might not be a good thing. I've also run ice cubes down mine when it slowed. The cubes clean the heck out of the inside of the disposal. Citrus rinds clean really well too. -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tim Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2013 10:11 AM To: Shop Talk Subject: [Shop-talk] slow disposal drain I have a garbage disposal that drains slow unless you run it. While I am pretty sure I know what is causing it (build up in the pipe), I am hoping that I don't have to pull the drain pipe to clean it out.... So, that being said, does anyone know if there is something I can run down the drain that will clear out that build up? Regular drain cleaners have not worked.... Thanks! tim _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib at att.net _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler at gmail.com From cavanadd at frontier.com Sun Apr 14 16:14:03 2013 From: cavanadd at frontier.com (Dave C) Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2013 15:14:03 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] clone HDD Message-ID: <516B2A2B.5070706@frontier.com> I have about filled up my 75 gb HDD and rather than put in a new, bigger HDD and then manually install everything, I would like to clone a bootable image from the existing HDD over to the new HDD. Anyone got any experience in doing this? Advice? Probably another fix could be to just install a second HDD and move all the picture, video and music files that are eating up space on the C drive. Thanks From nases at verizon.net Sun Apr 14 16:28:37 2013 From: nases at verizon.net (Philip Nase) Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2013 18:28:37 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] clone HDD In-Reply-To: <516B2A2B.5070706@frontier.com> References: <516B2A2B.5070706@frontier.com> Message-ID: <1FE8C5B2-1D56-4046-8D60-A2ABAF8F8216@verizon.net> It's easy on a Mac. Not so sure about a PC. On a Mac I create a bootable clone on the new drive and swap it in. Of course good backups before starting are a must. Phil Nase Applebachsville, PA http://home.comcast.net/~philnasecpa/ On Apr 14, 2013, at 6:14 PM, Dave C wrote: > I have about filled up my 75 gb HDD and rather than put in a new, bigger HDD and then manually install everything, I would like to clone a bootable image from the existing HDD over to the new HDD. Anyone got any experience in doing this? Advice? > > Probably another fix could be to just install a second HDD and move all the picture, video and music files that are eating up space on the C drive. > > Thanks > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/nases at verizon.net From bk13 at earthlink.net Sun Apr 14 17:08:23 2013 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2013 16:08:23 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] clone HDD In-Reply-To: <516B2A2B.5070706@frontier.com> References: <516B2A2B.5070706@frontier.com> Message-ID: <516B36E7.9030205@earthlink.net> Dave - Go to the manufacture's web site for your new drive if it didn't come with software. Cloning is a common action when people get new drives, so the manufactures make it easy. They will tell you how to connect both drives, setup the new one, and make the clone, then you can remove the old one and save it as a backup. I'd recommend your second option if everything is good with the existing drive other than free space. A sysadmin years ago recommended keeping data separate from the OS and I've been doing it since. I have three drives. One is Windoze and programs, one is pictures and other data files I create, and the third is TV programs (my computer serves as my DVR). This cuts down usage on my data drive and lets me do focused backups on the most important files. I seem to loose a drive about every 10 years and this has worked out well for making recovery easier. Brian On 4/14/2013 3:14 PM, Dave C wrote: > I have about filled up my 75 gb HDD and rather than put in a new, > bigger HDD and then manually install everything, I would like to clone > a bootable image from the existing HDD over to the new HDD. Anyone got > any experience in doing this? Advice? > > Probably another fix could be to just install a second HDD and move > all the picture, video and music files that are eating up space on the > C drive. > > Thanks > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net From bk13 at earthlink.net Sun Apr 14 17:16:20 2013 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2013 16:16:20 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] slow disposal drain In-Reply-To: <2df102dd.6b7744.13e09875fa5.Webtop.44@charter.net> References: <2df102dd.6b7744.13e09875fa5.Webtop.44@charter.net> Message-ID: <516B38C4.6000109@earthlink.net> Tim - I had a disposer where the drain hose got clogged. I also had a case where the trap under the sink was very restricted with gunk. I'd try a sink full of hot water first as was already recommended then if that didn't work, go under the sink and check the drain pipe that is easy to get access. When I moved into my current house, I had to replace about 30 feet of cast iron drain pipe. It was clogged almost solid, but rotted through at the bottom. The plumber replacing the pipe (home warranty from the seller) said this is why he loves drain cleaners. Rather than just running a snake, he gets to charge a day or two of labor and put in new pipe. I don't know how true that is with other types of pipe, but I minimize my use of drain cleaner. Brian On 4/14/2013 10:11 AM, Tim wrote: > I have a garbage disposal that drains slow unless you run it. While I am > pretty sure I know what is causing it (build up in the pipe), I am > hoping that I don't have to pull the drain pipe to clean it out.... > > So, that being said, does anyone know if there is something I can run > down the drain that will clear out that build up? Regular drain cleaners > have not worked.... > > Thanks! > tim > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net From eltonclark at gmail.com Sun Apr 14 18:32:00 2013 From: eltonclark at gmail.com (Elton E. (Tony) Clark) Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2013 19:32:00 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Fwd: slow disposal drain In-Reply-To: References: <2df102dd.6b7744.13e09875fa5.Webtop.44@charter.net> <516B38C4.6000109@earthlink.net> Message-ID: ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Elton E. (Tony) Clark Date: 14 April 2013 18:51 Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] slow disposal drain To: Brian Kemp Cc: Tim , Shop Talk My wife, desperate to clear a disposal drain before company arrived, plugged both sides of the sink, ran the disposal side full of hot water and then unplugged that side and turned on the disposal . . the pumping action of the disposer and the weight of the full sink of water cleared the drain. We've tried it since; it always works for simple clogs but one wants to hold the non-disposer plug in place while the disposer runs or it might flow up in the sink. On 14 April 2013 18:16, Brian Kemp wrote: > Tim - I had a disposer where the drain hose got clogged. I also had a > case where the trap under the sink was very restricted with gunk. I'd try a > sink full of hot water first as was already recommended then if that didn't > work, go under the sink and check the drain pipe that is easy to get access. > > When I moved into my current house, I had to replace about 30 feet of cast > iron drain pipe. It was clogged almost solid, but rotted through at the > bottom. The plumber replacing the pipe (home warranty from the seller) > said this is why he loves drain cleaners. Rather than just running a snake, > he gets to charge a day or two of labor and put in new pipe. I don't know > how true that is with other types of pipe, but I minimize my use of drain > cleaner. > > Brian > > > On 4/14/2013 10:11 AM, Tim wrote: > >> I have a garbage disposal that drains slow unless you run it. While I am >> pretty sure I know what is causing it (build up in the pipe), I am >> hoping that I don't have to pull the drain pipe to clean it out.... >> >> So, that being said, does anyone know if there is something I can run >> down the drain that will clear out that build up? Regular drain cleaners >> have not worked.... >> >> Thanks! >> tim >> ______________________________**_________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** >> options/shop-talk/bk13@**earthlink.net >> > ______________________________**_________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/shop-talk/eltonclark@**gmail.com From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Apr 14 18:40:28 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2013 17:40:28 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] clone HDD In-Reply-To: <516B2A2B.5070706@frontier.com> Message-ID: > Probably another fix could be to just install a second HDD > and move all the picture, video and music files that are > eating up space on the C drive. If you have the drive bay & port, that is definitely the route I would recommend. Huge new hard drives are really cheap these days, and you can just set it up as D: and start using it. No need to copy the existing files if you don't want to (unless you need more room for optimizing, etc). And working across different disc spindles can help speed up some operations. I'm up to H: on this machine Maybe some drive makers offer cloning software now that will work across different disk types, but they sure didn't use to. We used to use a product called Symantec Ghost a lot; it worked very well across different disc types. But Windoze still sometimes had problems with the new drive, especially if the interface type was different (eg replacing parallel IDE with SATA or whatever). -- Randall From roadster at astound.net Sun Apr 14 19:34:04 2013 From: roadster at astound.net (Fred Katz) Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2013 18:34:04 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] clone HDD In-Reply-To: <516B2A2B.5070706@frontier.com> References: <516B2A2B.5070706@frontier.com> Message-ID: <79FCF6AB-1012-45D9-93E5-2AABF332A312@astound.net> I bought a NewerTech USB universal drive adapter, cost me about $27 at the time. Comes with both USB 3 and USB 2 connectors to your PC or Mac, and you can plug any HD into the device externally, whether 2.5 3.5 or 5.25 inch drive. Even has a SATA connector. Extremely easy to connect any HD to it, and then use clone software that you can get off the Internet. I've used this to copy drives (I have two of these devices). Also to copy the internal to an external before swapping them. The only problem I encountered was copying some 15-year-old drives but that probably is not something you would do. Alternatively, you could do as you said. I connect an external USB drive for storing all my large videos and picture albums. I changed the preferences on my applications to point to the external drive for accessing the home folder for videos and albums. That keeps my laptop internal drive from filling up. Fred - On Apr 14, 2013, at 3:14 PM, Dave C wrote: > I have about filled up my 75 gb HDD and rather than put in a new, bigger HDD and then manually install everything, I would like to clone a bootable image from the existing HDD over to the new HDD. Anyone got any experience in doing this? Advice? > > Probably another fix could be to just install a second HDD and move all the picture, video and music files that are eating up space on the C drive. > > Thanks > _______________________________________________ From tputland at charter.net Mon Apr 15 05:40:22 2013 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 07:40:22 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] slow disposal drain Message-ID: <1ceca554.6a704b.13e0d7eec87.Webtop.47@charter.net> Thanks for the suggestions everyone. I think I will try the bugs since we will be out of town this weekend coming up and they will have a chance to work without being washed down or killed. Thanks again! tim On Sun, Apr 14, 2013 at 12:11 PM, Tim wrote: > I have a garbage disposal that drains slow unless you run it. While I > am pretty sure I know what is causing it (build up in the pipe), I am > hoping that I don't have to pull the drain pipe to clean it out.... > > So, that being said, does anyone know if there is something I can run > down the drain that will clear out that build up? Regular drain > cleaners have not worked.... > > Thanks! > tim From jandkstone99 at msn.com Mon Apr 15 06:13:44 2013 From: jandkstone99 at msn.com (Jim Stone) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 07:13:44 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Anchoring railing posts In-Reply-To: <516AED74.1020204@earthlink.net> References: , <516AED74.1020204@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Thanks Brian. Both ideas are worth considering and the FSI link gives us a few more. Thanks for sharing them. Jim > Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2013 10:55:00 -0700 > From: bk13 at earthlink.net > To: jandkstone99 at msn.com > CC: shop-talk at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Anchoring railing posts > > Jim, > > Two options for your consideration: > > 1 - If the railings are solid and your wife only doesn't like them based > on the deteriorated finish, contact a local painting or iron works > company. You may find that their estimate to come out and sandblast, > prime, and paint is cheaper than new railing parts and your time. I > have a mixture of railings as well and the only problem with the c1957 > iron rail is rusting at the ground level where the previous owner didn't > do maintenance. Another advantage of this is that you don't have to > bring the railing in compliance with current building codes. Since it > is a rental property, you also will not have a period of time with no > railing since it can stay in place. > > 2. Look at an aluminum system to match the rest of the aluminum that > you already have. I pulled a permit for a balcony repair (that turned > into a replacement) and was required to replace the railing to bring it > in compliance with current codes. I used a cable rail system from > http://www.fsihp.com/products/aluminum-railing on my balcony. Their > prices were very good and the product is decent. I did have trouble > getting enough tension on the cables in my application, so would > consider other vendors if you go the cable route if you have long > lengths and corners. My project was a 45' long by 5' cantilevered > balcony for 55' of total railing. I used fascia mounted posts because > the balcony is a waterproof concrete and I didn't want any penetrations > in the surface. They also have surface mount posts. I think their > picket stile railing would be an easy application and may use them again > when I get to other railing where obstructing the view is not an issue. > > Brian > > On 4/14/2013 6:27 AM, Jim Stone wrote: > > My rental property currently has wrought iron railings along the steps leading > > to the front door and around the concrete deck that is in front of the door. > > The railings are solid, but pretty old and in need of a serious cleanup and > > coat of paint at best. It is also from two different eras, as I believe the > > railing at the top is original to the house (c1950) or close, while the steps > > is aluminum. The posts are all iron and very well anchored in the concrete. From wmc_st at xxiii.com Mon Apr 15 06:57:50 2013 From: wmc_st at xxiii.com (Wayne) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 08:57:50 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] clone HDD In-Reply-To: <516B2A2B.5070706@frontier.com> References: <516B2A2B.5070706@frontier.com> Message-ID: <516BF94E.7080503@xxiii.com> On 4/14/2013 6:14 PM, Dave C wrote: > I have about filled up my 75 gb HDD and rather than put in a new, bigger > HDD and then manually install everything, I would like to clone a > bootable image from the existing HDD over to the new HDD. Anyone got any > experience in doing this? Advice? I've done it a bunch, but I'm a pro, and my usuall method isn't for the faint of heart; and some unix / linux experience helps, too. * Get a linux "live CD" image and burn it onto a disk. I like "Puppy Linux" (google will turn up any of this stuff, so I'll leave that to you.) A live CD is a full operating system that boots and runs from memory only. You don't have to install it, or modify anything on the HDD. * Install new drive. Real easy with SATA, which is a given on anything built in the last 8 years or so. * Boot Puppy Linux. It'll look a lot like a familiar Windows desktop. * Its system utilities menu has a program "gparted". This is a disk partition editor, much like partition magic if you ever used that back in the day. * Create the partition layout you want, and make the first one active or bootable using the "flags" menu option. * The old and new drives show up on the desktop with unix device names, like sda0 and sdb0. Take note of them. You can click to open them and verify which drive is the old C:. You'll have to right-click and do a "dismount" to close them. * Open "terminal" or "command line" or whatever it's called. * You've gonna use a command line program "ntfsclone" to copy from the old to the new drive. It takes all the sectors in use and builds them into a data stream that you can store somewhere, or shoot to a 2nd copy and extract. * Command will be like: ntfsclone -s /dev/sda1 -o - | ntfsclone -r -O /dev/sdb1 - BE real careful here; unix tends to give ya' enough rope to hang yourself. make sure those /dev entries are referring to the correct disk, or it will be happy to do exactly what you tell it, and copy the empty drive to the good one! That's it. It's not really as hairy as it sounds. Google ntfsclone, and there are a bunch of other similar how-tos out there. I would NOT use the xfer programs that the drive makers offer. The ones I've looked at usually are just a batch file using "xcopy" or something, which does NOT produce a true image or clone of your drive. -Wayne From wmc_st at xxiii.com Mon Apr 15 07:29:44 2013 From: wmc_st at xxiii.com (Wayne) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 09:29:44 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] slow disposal drain In-Reply-To: <2df102dd.6b7744.13e09875fa5.Webtop.44@charter.net> References: <2df102dd.6b7744.13e09875fa5.Webtop.44@charter.net> Message-ID: <516C00C8.2040206@xxiii.com> There is the old "run ice through the disposer" trick that's great for knocking rust and grime off the inside of the grind chamber. I've had really good results with Drano or Liquid Plumber foaming drain cleaners for drains & traps, but I don't know if I'd want to run it through a disposer (and they recommend against it.) PVC pipes & traps are dirt cheap, and Insinkerator makes a kick ass disposer. Installed their "Evo Compact" with the stainless steel chamber a couple years ago for $200; just avoid the el-cheapo "Badger" series. Brian wrote: > The plumber replacing the pipe ... said this is why he loves drain > cleaners. Rather than just running a snake, he gets to charge a day > or two of labor and put in new pipe. I saw this as a kid back in the 70s. Mom used to regularly use cleaner in the kitchen sink, which the chemical companies of the day advocated. Started leaking one day. The cleaner had totally eaten away the copper or brass pipe & trap from the inside out, and all that was left was a shell of chrome, about the thickness of heavy aluminum foil! PVC OTOH is pretty inert to alkaline & acid cleaners and doubt it would suffer. -Wayne On 4/14/2013 1:11 PM, Tim wrote: > I have a garbage disposal that drains slow unless you run it. While I am > pretty sure I know what is causing it (build up in the pipe), I am > hoping that I don't have to pull the drain pipe to clean it out.... > > So, that being said, does anyone know if there is something I can run > down the drain that will clear out that build up? Regular drain cleaners > have not worked.... From wmc_st at xxiii.com Mon Apr 15 07:39:11 2013 From: wmc_st at xxiii.com (Wayne) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 09:39:11 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Fwd: slow disposal drain In-Reply-To: References: <2df102dd.6b7744.13e09875fa5.Webtop.44@charter.net> <516B38C4.6000109@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <516C02FF.8020302@xxiii.com> On 4/14/2013 8:32 PM, Elton E. (Tony) Clark wrote: > My wife, desperate to clear a disposal drain before company arrived, > plugged both sides of the sink, ran the disposal side full of hot water and > then unplugged that side and turned on the disposal . . the pumping action > of the disposer and the weight of the full sink of water cleared the My place was built around 2001, and has these "air admittance valves" (check valves, basically) rather that vent stacks on the drains. Filled the disposer & sink full of water to test for leaks, and found the disposer has strong enough pumping action that water was going UP the pipe and spraying out all over the cabinet under the sink! Yuck. Supposed to only allow air IN, nothing out! -w From tvacc at lotusowners.com Mon Apr 15 07:40:56 2013 From: tvacc at lotusowners.com (Tony Vaccaro) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 09:40:56 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] clone HDD In-Reply-To: <516BF94E.7080503@xxiii.com> References: <516B2A2B.5070706@frontier.com> <516BF94E.7080503@xxiii.com> Message-ID: <024e01ce39de$db45c9f0$91d15dd0$@lotusowners.com> This is really not that difficult. I do it all the time, but that is the business I am in. Get yourself a copy of HD Clone. Bing it. That is all you need. Tony Vaccaro Lotus Owners of NY (LOONY) www.lotusowners.com 716-861-1412 From gsteve at hammatt.com Mon Apr 15 11:11:49 2013 From: gsteve at hammatt.com (Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 10:11:49 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts Message-ID: <334F0DCD301748839348D2AB68748EAB@StevePC> Ibm looking (so far without success) for a type of bolt that: 1. slight convex head 2. underside of head has 4 facets (sides) that taper inward. The bolt is designed to fit into a small casting with a matching 4-sided tapered hole to lock bolt from rotating while being tightened. Anyone ever seen anything like this? Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA From ejrussell at mebtel.net Mon Apr 15 11:28:48 2013 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 13:28:48 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts In-Reply-To: <334F0DCD301748839348D2AB68748EAB@StevePC> References: <334F0DCD301748839348D2AB68748EAB@StevePC> Message-ID: > I'm looking (so far without success) for a type of bolt that: > 1. slight convex head > 2. underside of head has 4 facets (sides) that taper inward. Not sure about the tapered sides - look at McMaster-Carr's "plow bolts". http://www.mcmaster.com/#specialty-bolts/=mc17oc Eric Russell Mebane, NC From KVacek at Ameritech.net Mon Apr 15 11:31:52 2013 From: KVacek at Ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 12:31:52 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts In-Reply-To: <334F0DCD301748839348D2AB68748EAB@StevePC> References: <334F0DCD301748839348D2AB68748EAB@StevePC> Message-ID: <000f01ce39ff$1ed7dcb0$5c879610$@Ameritech.net> How does it differ from a carriage bolt? -----Original Message----- From: Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA Subject: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts I'm looking (so far without success) for a type of bolt that: 1. slight convex head 2. underside of head has 4 facets (sides) that taper inward. The bolt is designed to fit into a small casting with a matching 4-sided tapered hole to lock bolt from rotating while being tightened. Anyone ever seen anything like this? Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA From gsteve at hammatt.com Mon Apr 15 11:33:00 2013 From: gsteve at hammatt.com (Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 10:33:00 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts In-Reply-To: <334F0DCD301748839348D2AB68748EAB@StevePC> References: <334F0DCD301748839348D2AB68748EAB@StevePC> Message-ID: <7C08F4B934994325A352C10CCFA00705@StevePC> I should clarify: This is not a carriage bolt. When looking in the plan (downward) view, the head appears square. In other words, the slightly domed head surface meets the sides to form a square shape that nests into the tapered square hole in the casting. The tapered sides appear to be around 30 degrees from vertical. Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA From: Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 10:11 AM To: Shop Talk Subject: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts Ibm looking (so far without success) for a type of bolt that: 1. slight convex head 2. underside of head has 4 facets (sides) that taper inward. The bolt is designed to fit into a small casting with a matching 4-sided tapered hole to lock bolt from rotating while being tightened. Anyone ever seen anything like this? Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/gsteve at hammatt.com ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6246 - Release Date: 04/15/13 From gsteve at hammatt.com Mon Apr 15 11:58:42 2013 From: gsteve at hammatt.com (Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 10:58:42 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts (now see photos) In-Reply-To: <7C08F4B934994325A352C10CCFA00705@StevePC> References: <334F0DCD301748839348D2AB68748EAB@StevePC> <7C08F4B934994325A352C10CCFA00705@StevePC> Message-ID: OK, this will make it easier: http://www.flickr.com/photos/97934425 at N00/ go here to see some photos of what Ibm trying to describe. Thanks. Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA From: Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 10:33 AM To: Shop Talk Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts I should clarify: This is not a carriage bolt. When looking in the plan (downward) view, the head appears square. In other words, the slightly domed head surface meets the sides to form a square shape that nests into the tapered square hole in the casting. The tapered sides appear to be around 30 degrees from vertical. Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA From: Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 10:11 AM To: Shop Talk Subject: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts Ibm looking (so far without success) for a type of bolt that: 1. slight convex head 2. underside of head has 4 facets (sides) that taper inward. The bolt is designed to fit into a small casting with a matching 4-sided tapered hole to lock bolt from rotating while being tightened. Anyone ever seen anything like this? Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/gsteve at hammatt.com ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6246 - Release Date: 04/15/13 _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/gsteve at hammatt.com ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6246 - Release Date: 04/15/13 From jamesf at groupwbench.org Mon Apr 15 12:12:26 2013 From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 14:12:26 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts (now see photos) In-Reply-To: References: <334F0DCD301748839348D2AB68748EAB@StevePC> <7C08F4B934994325A352C10CCFA00705@StevePC> Message-ID: On Apr 15, 2013, at 1:58 PM, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA wrote: > OK, this will make it easier: > http://www.flickr.com/photos/97934425 at N00/ > go here to see some photos of what Ibm trying to describe. > Thanks. Have you tried a Google image search, using the actual image? From darmstrong at nexicom.net Mon Apr 15 12:56:49 2013 From: darmstrong at nexicom.net (Doug Armstrong) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 14:56:49 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts (now see photos) In-Reply-To: References: <334F0DCD301748839348D2AB68748EAB@StevePC><7C08F4B934994325A352C10CCFA00705@StevePC> Message-ID: <5E1DA9AD9BA64E88AA81A42257DFE78C@CAD> I think the proper description, or closest would be "square head plow bolt" as shown in this photo: http://file.seekpart.com/productsimage/2012/7/17/201271710421319835.jpg As for a source, I'm not sure. I found a couple of discussions about them being used on old Oliver plows. Maybe someone into farm equipment restoration knows of a source? http://olivergang.org/discus/messages/963/1153.html?1104199506 Doug Armstrong -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 1:59 PM To: Shop Talk Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts (now see photos) OK, this will make it easier: http://www.flickr.com/photos/97934425 at N00/ go here to see some photos of what Ibm trying to describe. Thanks. Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA From: Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 10:33 AM To: Shop Talk Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts I should clarify: This is not a carriage bolt. When looking in the plan (downward) view, the head appears square. In other words, the slightly domed head surface meets the sides to form a square shape that nests into the tapered square hole in the casting. The tapered sides appear to be around 30 degrees from vertical. Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA From: Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 10:11 AM To: Shop Talk Subject: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts Ibm looking (so far without success) for a type of bolt that: 1. slight convex head 2. underside of head has 4 facets (sides) that taper inward. The bolt is designed to fit into a small casting with a matching 4-sided tapered hole to lock bolt from rotating while being tightened. Anyone ever seen anything like this? Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/gsteve at hammatt.com ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6246 - Release Date: 04/15/13 _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/gsteve at hammatt.com ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6246 - Release Date: 04/15/13 _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/darmstrong at nexicom.net ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6245 - Release Date: 04/14/13 ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6244 - Release Date: 04/14/13 From salbrigh at nycap.rr.com Mon Apr 15 13:02:04 2013 From: salbrigh at nycap.rr.com (skip albright) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 15:02:04 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts In-Reply-To: <334F0DCD301748839348D2AB68748EAB@StevePC> References: <334F0DCD301748839348D2AB68748EAB@StevePC> Message-ID: <516C4EAC.20708@nycap.rr.com> like a carriage bolt, but different? On 4/15/2013 1:11 PM, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA wrote: > Ibm looking (so far without success) for a type of bolt that: > 1. slight convex head > 2. underside of head has 4 facets (sides) that taper inward. > The bolt is designed to fit into a small casting with a matching > 4-sided tapered hole to lock bolt from rotating while being > tightened. > > Anyone ever seen anything like this? > > Steve Hammatt > Mount Vernon WA USA > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/salbrigh at nycap.rr.com From wmc_st at xxiii.com Mon Apr 15 13:06:56 2013 From: wmc_st at xxiii.com (Wayne) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 15:06:56 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts (now see photos) In-Reply-To: References: <334F0DCD301748839348D2AB68748EAB@StevePC> <7C08F4B934994325A352C10CCFA00705@StevePC> Message-ID: <516C4FD0.9060105@xxiii.com> On 4/15/2013 1:58 PM, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA wrote: > OK, this will make it easier: > http://www.flickr.com/photos/97934425 at N00/ > go here to see some photos of what Ibm trying to describe. > Thanks. Interesting; never seen anything like that. Apparently the hole is unthreaded, and the square part keeps it from turning while you run a nut on from the other side? -w From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Apr 15 14:51:30 2013 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 20:51:30 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts In-Reply-To: <334F0DCD301748839348D2AB68748EAB@StevePC> Message-ID: <20130415205130.CQ4CI.40606.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> ---- "Steve Hammatt wrote: > Ibm looking (so far without success) for a type of bolt that: > 1. slight convex head > 2. underside of head has 4 facets (sides) that taper inward. > The bolt is designed to fit into a small casting with a matching > 4-sided tapered hole to lock bolt from rotating while being > tightened. Steve, I think you'll have more luck searching by application. That sounds like a manufacturer's special to me. For example http://goo.gl/5hXM8 Randall From gsteve at hammatt.com Mon Apr 15 15:07:37 2013 From: gsteve at hammatt.com (Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 14:07:37 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts In-Reply-To: <20130415205130.CQ4CI.40606.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> References: <20130415205130.CQ4CI.40606.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> Message-ID: <93D9BF36398440ACAEBCBC4A880A4909@StevePC> I donbt think a search for b1912 Cadillac Leather License Plate Hanger Boltb will turn up the correct bolt. My thinking is that there could have been other applications for the same or very similar item (such as was mentioned earlier about bplow boltsb) and that they may be still available for that reason. Thanks. Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA From: Randall Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 1:51 PM To: Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA ; Shop Talk Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts ---- "Steve Hammatt wrote: > Ibm looking (so far without success) for a type of bolt that: > 1. slight convex head > 2. underside of head has 4 facets (sides) that taper inward. > The bolt is designed to fit into a small casting with a matching > 4-sided tapered hole to lock bolt from rotating while being > tightened. Steve, I think you'll have more luck searching by application. That sounds like a manufacturer's special to me. For example http://goo.gl/5hXM8 Randall ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6246 - Release Date: 04/15/13 From strovato at optonline.net Mon Apr 15 15:25:27 2013 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 17:25:27 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts In-Reply-To: <93D9BF36398440ACAEBCBC4A880A4909@StevePC> References: <20130415205130.CQ4CI.40606.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> <93D9BF36398440ACAEBCBC4A880A4909@StevePC> Message-ID: <0MLB005LRFJ14J30@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> I was just about to tell you that there's this guy who was on Jay Leno's Garage who makes leather license plates, and perhaps he might have some idea where to get those bolts. Then I went to get the link and I realized, that's you! So much for that idea. -Steve Trovato strovato at optonline.net At 05:07 PM 4/15/2013, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA wrote: >I donbt think a search for b1912 Cadillac Leather License Plate >Hanger Boltbwill turn up the correct bolt. My thinking is that >there could have been other applications for the same or very >similar item (such as was mentioned earlier about bplow boltsb) >and that they may be still available for that reason. >Thanks. > >Steve Hammatt >Mount Vernon WA USA From gsteve at hammatt.com Mon Apr 15 15:40:07 2013 From: gsteve at hammatt.com (Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 14:40:07 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts In-Reply-To: <0MLB005LRFJ14J30@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> References: <20130415205130.CQ4CI.40606.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> <93D9BF36398440ACAEBCBC4A880A4909@StevePC> <0MLB005LRFJ14J30@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Message-ID: <41C7AD9A117A47ACBB0558C1A85B09DD@StevePC> Grin! My wife and I stopped by last Saturday for a short visit with Jay and a chance for my wife to see the collection. Ibm working on making hangers for plates to go along with my plates. www.leatherplates.com Thanks! BTW, with everyonebs help I determined that what I need is a small version of a #4 domed head Plow Bolt. Now, just to find the right size and source. Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA From: Steven Trovato Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 2:25 PM To: Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA ; Shop Talk Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts I was just about to tell you that there's this guy who was on Jay Leno's Garage who makes leather license plates, and perhaps he might have some idea where to get those bolts. Then I went to get the link and I realized, that's you! So much for that idea. -Steve Trovato strovato at optonline.net At 05:07 PM 4/15/2013, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA wrote: >I donbt think a search for b1912 Cadillac Leather License Plate >Hanger Boltbwill turn up the correct bolt. My thinking is that >there could have been other applications for the same or very >similar item (such as was mentioned earlier about bplow boltsb) >and that they may be still available for that reason. >Thanks. > >Steve Hammatt >Mount Vernon WA USA ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6246 - Release Date: 04/15/13 From KVacek at Ameritech.net Mon Apr 22 06:58:21 2013 From: KVacek at Ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 07:58:21 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Fwd: slow disposal drain In-Reply-To: <516C02FF.8020302@xxiii.com> References: <2df102dd.6b7744.13e09875fa5.Webtop.44@charter.net> <516B38C4.6000109@earthlink.net> <516C02FF.8020302@xxiii.com> Message-ID: <005101ce3f59$12043d30$360cb790$@Ameritech.net> Based on the good experiences reported here, I decided to try "bugs" in our upstairs bathroom. The tub drain runs a long way to the stack, and sometimes gets slow. Bleach always fixes it, but a permanent fix sounds better. I went to Menard's and saw many kinds of enzymatic septic system cleaners, but nothing that said it was intended for interior plumbing. Same thing, or is there another product that I need to look for? Thanks! Karl From tputland at charter.net Mon Apr 22 07:23:06 2013 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 09:23:06 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] slow disposal drain Message-ID: <3e799435.6e5d94.13e31e9801a.Webtop.47@charter.net> Since I have not yet gotten around to looking for bugs, I am interested in this info as well. So, PLEASE reply to the list. Thanks!! tim On Mon, Apr 22, 2013 at 7:58 AM, Karl Vacek wrote: > Based on the good experiences reported here, I decided to try "bugs" > in our > upstairs bathroom. The tub drain runs a long way to the stack, and > sometimes gets slow. Bleach always fixes it, but a permanent fix > sounds > better. > > I went to Menard's and saw many kinds of enzymatic septic system > cleaners, > but nothing that said it was intended for interior plumbing. Same > thing, or > is there another product that I need to look for? > > Thanks! > Karl > _______________________________________________ From cavanadd at frontier.com Mon Apr 22 19:57:02 2013 From: cavanadd at frontier.com (Dave C) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 18:57:02 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Did I kill my mower? Message-ID: <5175EA6E.6010803@frontier.com> My wife got the riding mower out a couple of weeks ago, and it was initially smoking and running rough. I attributed it to old gas and her tendency to over-choke the engine when starting. It eventually settled down and ran ok. Today she tried again and got LOTS of white smoke and poor power, and eventually it wouldn't run well enough to mow. I checked it this afternoon and found the same problem. Lots of white smoke, it would sort of settle down, then it would quit. Investigation eventually turned up gas in the crankcase, probably a couple of quarts. Apparently the float in the carb stuck open over the winter and flooded the crankcase (yes, I failed to close the fuel shut off valve last fall). I drained the oil and refilled the crankcase with good oil, and now have the mower on the charger as I ran the battery down during my troubleshooting process. I'll try to start it again later; when it ran earlier it didn't make any really scary metal on metal noises; I haven't taken the oil filter apart to check for debris in it, either. The mower is a Kubota T1670, about 13 years old, with a 15 HP OHV engine and 40 inch deck. Until now it's been flawless. One new battery and annual oil changes, sharpen the blades at the beginning of the season. A new comparable mower from Kubota has a MSRP of about $3500, and I am not expecting much of a discount based on past history with Kubota. The new model is 18 HP with a 42" deck. Do you think the engine's toast? If so, do you think it would it be economical to have Kubota rebuild it? (Yes, it's well within my skill set to rebuild it. No, I'm not going to. Other than routine maintenance, I'm done wrenching on small gas engines.) Other options? Thanks Dave From dmscheidt at gmail.com Mon Apr 22 20:47:32 2013 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 21:47:32 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Did I kill my mower? In-Reply-To: <5175EA6E.6010803@frontier.com> References: <5175EA6E.6010803@frontier.com> Message-ID: <673C69D6-ED98-4253-854E-44B5E6199AB7@gmail.com> On Apr 22, 2013, at 8:57 PM, Dave C wrote: > > > Do you think the engine's toast? If so, do you think it would it be economical to have Kubota rebuild it? (Yes, it's well within my skill set to rebuild it. No, I'm not going to. Other than routine maintenance, I'm done wrenching on small gas engines.) Other options? > Change the filter, put some good oil in it, fix the carb, and mow. If you've damaged the engine, it's not going to br cheaper to fix now, than it will be when it's totally toast. If you haven't, you're worrying too much. From cavanadd at frontier.com Mon Apr 22 21:03:42 2013 From: cavanadd at frontier.com (Dave C) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 20:03:42 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Did I kill my mower? In-Reply-To: <673C69D6-ED98-4253-854E-44B5E6199AB7@gmail.com> References: <5175EA6E.6010803@frontier.com> <673C69D6-ED98-4253-854E-44B5E6199AB7@gmail.com> Message-ID: <5175FA0E.6070906@frontier.com> Looks like I'm ok for the time being. I left it on the charger for a bit and it started up and after running for a minute it ran fine. I finished the grass and it worked just like it always did, no smoke. This weekend I'll change the oil again with Delo 400 and put a new filter on it. Those mowers are pretty tough. On 4/22/2013 7:47 PM, David Scheidt wrote: > > On Apr 22, 2013, at 8:57 PM, Dave C wrote: > >> >> Do you think the engine's toast? If so, do you think it would it be economical to have Kubota rebuild it? (Yes, it's well within my skill set to rebuild it. No, I'm not going to. Other than routine maintenance, I'm done wrenching on small gas engines.) Other options? >> > Change the filter, put some good oil in it, fix the carb, and mow. If you've damaged the engine, it's not going to br cheaper to fix now, than it will be when it's totally toast. If you haven't, you're worrying too much. From racertod at racertodd.com Mon Apr 22 20:57:55 2013 From: racertod at racertodd.com (Todd Walke) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 19:57:55 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Did I kill my mower? In-Reply-To: <5175EA6E.6010803@frontier.com> Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20130422194119.009a57e0@mail.avvanta.com> I wonder if an oil analysis would be of help in determining the condition of the engine. If it seems to run OK, put several hours on it first. Then pull an oil sample and send it to a lab. If the wear metals are higher than normal, that would show that internal damage has been done. I use Blackstone Labs (http://www.blackstone-labs.com)to analyze the oil in my cars. They'll send you a sample kit for free, you pay the $25 fee when you send it in. On the sample slip, you can give some details of the gas-in-the-oilpan situation so they know what to look for. Also, try contacting them first. They likely have dealt with similar situations and can advise you on how many hours to put on the engine before pulling a sample or if you should do anything else first. If they've done tests on that engine type in the past, they'll have average numbers for that motor. Those can be compared to your sample. My test reports show averages for both my engine and universal averages for my version of the TDI motor. Todd Seattle,WA '86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 276,000 miles '01 Golf TDI, silver. (new work car) 401,000 miles '87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car) 654,000 miles <- Gone to a new home :( http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff From eric at megageek.com Fri Apr 26 07:42:35 2013 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2013 09:42:35 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Cutting up fiberglass Message-ID: Ok, I have a 23' sailboat that I need to get rid of. Here are my options... 1-Sell it complete for maybe a $100-$200 (trailer included.)(Note, the boat needs work.) 2-Part it out and sell the components, then get rid of the hull. (I'm estimating about $700-$1200 worth of parts) 3-Donate it complete I was opting for #2. If I go that route, I have to cut up the boat. It's a single skin (no insulation or foam) hull. I have a 2yd dumpster that I could put pieces in each week. If I cut it, can I use a chainsaw without damaging the saw (I'm not that concerned about the blade, I'll just use an old one.) If I wet the boat as I'm cutting, will this damage the saw? I've tried in the past to use a recip saw, but it took forever. What about a carbide tip cir-saw or dia grinder? Any advice? Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson From fishplate at gmail.com Fri Apr 26 08:01:41 2013 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2013 10:01:41 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Cutting up fiberglass In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Fri, Apr 26, 2013 at 9:42 AM, wrote: > Ok, I have a 23' sailboat that I need to get rid of. Here are my > options... > > If I cut it, can I use a chainsaw without damaging the saw (I'm not that > concerned about the blade, I'll just use an old one.) > > If I wet the boat as I'm cutting, will this damage the saw? I'd be worried about my lungs. I imagine there'd be lots of fibrous dust. Bad for you and your tool. What about busting it with a hammer into smaller pieces? Maybe an air chisel and wide-blade implement? Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From jamesf at groupwbench.org Fri Apr 26 08:11:05 2013 From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2013 10:11:05 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Cutting up fiberglass In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9ED141F5-F038-425A-A31F-08698E9A7DC2@groupwbench.org> On Apr 26, 2013, at 9:42 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote: > > I've tried in the past to use a recip saw, but it took forever. What > about a carbide tip cir-saw or dia grinder? I cut up a shower with a sawzall and demolition blade. It went quickly enough that I could hold my breath. Boat may be made from something completely different though. Are you near a vo-tech school or sailing club/school? A donation could be useful for either. From ronnie.day at gmail.com Fri Apr 26 08:15:14 2013 From: ronnie.day at gmail.com (Ronnie Day) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2013 09:15:14 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Cutting up fiberglass In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: If you're going to cut it up, I'd use a recip saw with a medium blade, and wear a mask and saftey glasses like Jeff suggested. On Fri, Apr 26, 2013 at 9:01 AM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > On Fri, Apr 26, 2013 at 9:42 AM, wrote: > > Ok, I have a 23' sailboat that I need to get rid of. Here are my > > options... > > > > If I cut it, can I use a chainsaw without damaging the saw (I'm not that > > concerned about the blade, I'll just use an old one.) > > > > If I wet the boat as I'm cutting, will this damage the saw? > > I'd be worried about my lungs. I imagine there'd be lots of fibrous > dust. Bad for you and your tool. > > What about busting it with a hammer into smaller pieces? Maybe an air > chisel and wide-blade implement? > > Jeff Scarbrough > Corrosion Acres, Ga. > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ronnie.day at gmail.com From mjw at littlegrassy.com Fri Apr 26 09:21:20 2013 From: mjw at littlegrassy.com (Matt Wehland) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2013 10:21:20 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Cutting up fiberglass In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <517A9B70.9050702@littlegrassy.com> How big is the keel and is it lead? Lead is worth money, don't put it in the dumpster. If you want leads on selling the lead let me know. Matt On 4/26/2013 8:42 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote: > Ok, I have a 23' sailboat that I need to get rid of. Here are my > options... > > 1-Sell it complete for maybe a $100-$200 (trailer included.)(Note, the > boat needs work.) > 2-Part it out and sell the components, then get rid of the hull. (I'm > estimating about $700-$1200 worth of parts) > 3-Donate it complete > > I was opting for #2. If I go that route, I have to cut up the boat. It's > a single skin (no insulation or foam) hull. I have a 2yd dumpster that I > could put pieces in each week. > > If I cut it, can I use a chainsaw without damaging the saw (I'm not that > concerned about the blade, I'll just use an old one.) > > If I wet the boat as I'm cutting, will this damage the saw? > > I've tried in the past to use a recip saw, but it took forever. What > about a carbide tip cir-saw or dia grinder? > > Any advice? > > > > Eric P > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mjw at littlegrassy.com > > -- Matt Wehland (815) 295-4533 From peterwmurray at gmail.com Fri Apr 26 10:00:51 2013 From: peterwmurray at gmail.com (Peter Murray) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2013 12:00:51 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] slow disposal drain In-Reply-To: <3e799435.6e5d94.13e31e9801a.Webtop.47@charter.net> References: <3e799435.6e5d94.13e31e9801a.Webtop.47@charter.net> Message-ID: I have used the Zep Professional Drain Care with good results. It is available at Home Depot. I do typically try to put it down proactively, though that application is pretty irregular... -Peter On Apr 22, 2013 9:23 AM, "Tim" wrote: > Since I have not yet gotten around to looking for bugs, I am interested in > this info as well. > > So, PLEASE reply to the list. > > Thanks!! > tim > > > On Mon, Apr 22, 2013 at 7:58 AM, Karl Vacek wrote: > > Based on the good experiences reported here, I decided to try "bugs" in >> our >> upstairs bathroom. The tub drain runs a long way to the stack, and >> sometimes gets slow. Bleach always fixes it, but a permanent fix sounds >> better. >> >> I went to Menard's and saw many kinds of enzymatic septic system cleaners, >> but nothing that said it was intended for interior plumbing. Same thing, >> or >> is there another product that I need to look for? >> >> Thanks! >> Karl >> ______________________________**_________________ >> > ______________________________**_________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/shop-talk/** > peterwmurray at gmail.com From neiljsherry at talktalk.net Fri Apr 26 12:34:30 2013 From: neiljsherry at talktalk.net (Neil Sherry) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2013 19:34:30 +0100 Subject: [Shop-talk] Cutting up fiberglass In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <517AC8B6.7080208@talktalk.net> My Thoughts. Don't do it! By all means strip and sell the fittings. But then with the hull: List it on ebay - for $5 - someone might take it away and save you the trouble of cutting it up! Or even keep it! It could be used in a playground for kids to climb over, turned upside down as a shed/playhouse, maybe a college could use it for structural testing analysis. It could be sunk in the ground as a pond, filled with soil and planted with flowers/vegetables (think jumbo window box - maybe at the side of the road outside your property). Or the front 8 ft could be cut off and stood up to form a sheltered seat - like this http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3187/2845782678_53ab5c3efb_z.jpg?zz=1 If you get really desperate, maybe break it up with a machine (backhoe/bulldozer etc) rather than cutting might work On 26/04/2013 14:42, eric at megageek.com wrote: > Ok, I have a 23' sailboat that I need to get rid of. Here are my > options... > > 1-Sell it complete for maybe a $100-$200 (trailer included.)(Note, the > boat needs work.) > 2-Part it out and sell the components, then get rid of the hull. (I'm > estimating about $700-$1200 worth of parts) > 3-Donate it complete > > I was opting for #2. If I go that route, I have to cut up the boat. It's > a single skin (no insulation or foam) hull. I have a 2yd dumpster that I > could put pieces in each week. > > If I cut it, can I use a chainsaw without damaging the saw (I'm not that > concerned about the blade, I'll just use an old one.) > > If I wet the boat as I'm cutting, will this damage the saw? > > I've tried in the past to use a recip saw, but it took forever. What > about a carbide tip cir-saw or dia grinder? > > Any advice? > > > > Eric P > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/neiljsherry at talktalk.net From dirtbeard at pacbell.net Fri Apr 26 12:49:10 2013 From: dirtbeard at pacbell.net (old dirtbeard) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2013 11:49:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] Cutting up fiberglass In-Reply-To: <517AC8B6.7080208@talktalk.net> References: <517AC8B6.7080208@talktalk.net> Message-ID: <1367002150.96524.YahooMailRC@web184706.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Strip it and leave the hull by the side of the road with a "free" sign. I think it would disappear... best, doug ----- Original Message ---- From: Neil Sherry To: shop-talk at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, April 26, 2013 11:34:45 AM Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cutting up fiberglass My Thoughts. Don't do it! By all means strip and sell the fittings. But then with the hull: List it on ebay - for $5 - someone might take it away and save you the trouble of cutting it up! Or even keep it! It could be used in a playground for kids to climb over, turned upside down as a shed/playhouse, maybe a college could use it for structural testing analysis. It could be sunk in the ground as a pond, filled with soil and planted with flowers/vegetables (think jumbo window box - maybe at the side of the road outside your property). Or the front 8 ft could be cut off and stood up to form a sheltered seat - like this http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3187/2845782678_53ab5c3efb_z.jpg?zz=1 If you get really desperate, maybe break it up with a machine (backhoe/bulldozer etc) rather than cutting might work On 26/04/2013 14:42, eric at megageek.com wrote: > Ok, I have a 23' sailboat that I need to get rid of. Here are my > options... > > 1-Sell it complete for maybe a $100-$200 (trailer included.)(Note, the > boat needs work.) > 2-Part it out and sell the components, then get rid of the hull. (I'm > estimating about $700-$1200 worth of parts) > 3-Donate it complete > > I was opting for #2. If I go that route, I have to cut up the boat. It's > a single skin (no insulation or foam) hull. I have a 2yd dumpster that I > could put pieces in each week. > > If I cut it, can I use a chainsaw without damaging the saw (I'm not that > concerned about the blade, I'll just use an old one.) > > If I wet the boat as I'm cutting, will this damage the saw? > > I've tried in the past to use a recip saw, but it took forever. What > about a carbide tip cir-saw or dia grinder? > > Any advice? > > > > Eric P > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/neiljsherry at talktalk.net _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard at pacbell.net From fishplate at gmail.com Fri Apr 26 13:16:32 2013 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2013 15:16:32 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Cutting up fiberglass In-Reply-To: <1367002150.96524.YahooMailRC@web184706.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <517AC8B6.7080208@talktalk.net> <1367002150.96524.YahooMailRC@web184706.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Fri, Apr 26, 2013 at 2:49 PM, old dirtbeard wrote: > Strip it and leave the hull by the side of the road with a "free" sign. I think > it would disappear... Better yet, with a sign that says "ForSale: $100". Then somebody is sure to take it in the dark of night... From shannahquilts at gmail.com Fri Apr 26 13:29:13 2013 From: shannahquilts at gmail.com (Shannah Miller) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2013 12:29:13 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Cutting up fiberglass In-Reply-To: References: <517AC8B6.7080208@talktalk.net> <1367002150.96524.YahooMailRC@web184706.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: At the risk of being overly pedantic, if you do decide to cut it up yourself, I would recommend using a respirator, and not just a mask. I used a mask with fiberglass, and still wound up with some lung damage from it. Shannah On Fri, Apr 26, 2013 at 12:16 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > On Fri, Apr 26, 2013 at 2:49 PM, old dirtbeard > wrote: > > Strip it and leave the hull by the side of the road with a "free" sign. > I think > > it would disappear... > > Better yet, with a sign that says "ForSale: $100". Then somebody is > sure to take it in the dark of night... > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shannahquilts at gmail.com From cavanadd at frontier.com Fri Apr 26 22:04:28 2013 From: cavanadd at frontier.com (Dave C) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2013 21:04:28 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Cutting up fiberglass In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <517B4E4C.1090502@frontier.com> I'm afraid I'm not going to be much help, but I do have a story. Some time ago, probably around 25 or so years ago, my youngest brother dragged an old sailboat (18 feet or so) and trailer out to my dad's acreage on the outskirts of League City, Tx, about 20 miles south of Houston. I understand he bought it for the trailer, and had grandiose ideas of selling the boat (if I know my brother). The boat never did sell, and my dad kept bugging him to get rid of it. One day he showed up with a can of gas. He borrowed my dad's chain saw and cut the boat up into pieces, and then set fire to them in the pasture (my brother tends to be somewhat ......impulsive). I understand it was a relatively large and smoky fire. In due course a representative from the local fire department stopped by, and his only comment was "most people wait until after dark to do things like that", and then left. My brother is still alive, although still impulsive and (maybe a little more than) somewhat nuts. I have no information on the fate of the chainsaw. On 4/26/2013 6:42 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote: > Ok, I have a 23' sailboat that I need to get rid of. Here are my > options... > > 1-Sell it complete for maybe a $100-$200 (trailer included.)(Note, the > boat needs work.) > 2-Part it out and sell the components, then get rid of the hull. (I'm > estimating about $700-$1200 worth of parts) > 3-Donate it complete > > I was opting for #2. If I go that route, I have to cut up the boat. It's > a single skin (no insulation or foam) hull. I have a 2yd dumpster that I > could put pieces in each week. > > If I cut it, can I use a chainsaw without damaging the saw (I'm not that > concerned about the blade, I'll just use an old one.) > > If I wet the boat as I'm cutting, will this damage the saw? > > I've tried in the past to use a recip saw, but it took forever. What > about a carbide tip cir-saw or dia grinder? > > Any advice? > > > > Eric P > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd at frontier.com From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Apr 27 00:06:32 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2013 23:06:32 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Anyone using a salt chlorine generator? Message-ID: I'm replacing a bunch of swimming pool equipment, and several people are trying to convince me to use an automatic salt chlorinator. In the past, I've used an "automatic" chlorinator that is nothing but a tank for chlorine tablets, that the pump slowly forces water through. What comes out is very concentrated and corrodes everything in sight ... without it I probably wouldn't be spending kilobucks now. Just looking for some feedback from "the man who owns one". Oh yeah, once the pool is happy again, I can get back to working in the shop! Randall From rolds at plausa.com Sat Apr 27 04:13:01 2013 From: rolds at plausa.com (Ron Olds) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 10:13:01 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Anyone using a salt chlorine generator? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Randall, I have a salt generator and would highly recommend it. To maintain it you simply add salt to the pool. It is much simpler and easier than dealing with chlorine tablets. It also seems to be much more stable and you don't get that chlorine smell from the water. I used chlorine tablets on my old pool and would never have that type system again. You will be able to spend less time worrying and working on the pool and more time in the shop which is what it really is about anyway. Ronald Olds Sales Manager Plasser American Corporation PO Box 5464 2001 Myers Road Chesapeake, VA 23324-0464 Phone (757) 543-3526 Cell (630) 240-0818 Fax (757) 494-7186 The information contained in this e-mail including any attachments may be proprietary, privileged or confidential and is intended solely for the use of the addressee. Any unauthorized distribution, disclosure or any other such use is strictly prohibited. Furthermore, any reviews, dissemination or copying by anyone other than the intended recipient is expressly prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender and destroy all copies of the original transmittal. -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2013 2:07 AM To: 'Shop Talk' Subject: [Shop-talk] Anyone using a salt chlorine generator? I'm replacing a bunch of swimming pool equipment, and several people are trying to convince me to use an automatic salt chlorinator. In the past, I've used an "automatic" chlorinator that is nothing but a tank for chlorine tablets, that the pump slowly forces water through. What comes out is very concentrated and corrodes everything in sight ... without it I probably wouldn't be spending kilobucks now. Just looking for some feedback from "the man who owns one". Oh yeah, once the pool is happy again, I can get back to working in the shop! Randall _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rolds at plausa.com From jniolon at att.net Sat Apr 27 05:52:12 2013 From: jniolon at att.net (John Niolon) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 06:52:12 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] searching for Yazoo parts Message-ID: Hi Guys My reliable source for Yazoo mower parts doesn't have what I need... Mower is a Yazoo SV-22-b 22" big wheel mower from the late 70s - early 80s. I've used my last spare part off my parts mower and need a 'friction hub housing' to get it moving again.... does ANYONE know of a parts source on these old decks... old lawnmower shops, graveyards, parts houses that might have this discontined part ?? I hate to see this old warhorse die.. I can email pics if needed thanks John Many people are alive only because it's illegal to shoot them. From mbarre at juno.com Sat Apr 27 06:27:47 2013 From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 12:27:47 GMT Subject: [Shop-talk] Anyone using a salt chlorine generator? Message-ID: <20130427.082747.7558.0@webmail08.vgs.untd.com> +1 for the "pro" salt water pools...I have had ours 7 years and other than adding salt and occasionally cleaning the cell, not a single problem. The only downside I have heard is the cost of replacement - one neighbor had a lightening strike take out his controller.Another had to buy a new generating cell after a surprisingly short period - I suspect he neglected basic management/maintenanceof the device. I think the technology is proven and cost effective - I know it is easy to use!This and an automatic cleaner ( I have a Polaris 280) make having a pool a snap. Matt in Georgia ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Ron Olds I have a salt generator and would highly recommend it. -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2013 2:07 AM To: 'Shop Talk' Subject: [Shop-talk] Anyone using a salt chlorine generator? Just looking for some feedback from "the man who owns one". From tputland at charter.net Sun Apr 28 13:23:42 2013 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 15:23:42 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] POR15 WTF??!?!?!?! Message-ID: <25e99395.737bbe.13e5219cc94.Webtop.45@charter.net> I just opened a previously opened can of POR15. I had plastic under the lid so the can came open easily. Last time I opened this can was well over a year ago. Once through the two different skins formed inside, I stuck the stir stick in, stirred a couple circles and the stuff started to expand like a soda that had been shook up (but thankfully not as fast!). It easily doubled its volume before it calmed down. Now it just looks slightly carbonated. Anyone seen this before? Think I can still use it and trust it to be as bullet proof as usual? Or am I out almost a pint of this expensive stuff? Thanks tim From tputland at charter.net Sun Apr 28 17:00:02 2013 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 19:00:02 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] incorrect AN fitting? Message-ID: <144c8939.739023.13e52dfdc4e.Webtop.45@charter.net> I startrd making fuel lines today and have run into what looks to be an incorrect fitting for stainless steel braided lines. The bottom one is a standard 6AN fitting and looks different than the banjo bolt on top. http://www.flickr.com/photos/82293958 at N06/8690747806/ Does the banjo bolt fitting look like it will work or not? Because the threads are so different, I cannot see how but have not done this before.... Thanks tim From mark at bradakis.com Sun Apr 28 22:20:40 2013 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 22:20:40 -0600 Subject: [Shop-talk] incorrect AN fitting? In-Reply-To: <144c8939.739023.13e52dfdc4e.Webtop.45@charter.net> References: <144c8939.739023.13e52dfdc4e.Webtop.45@charter.net> Message-ID: <517DF518.7030900@bradakis.com> If the red nut threads on it should work. mjb. From eric at megageek.com Mon Apr 29 19:22:38 2013 From: eric at megageek.com (eric at megageek.com) Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 21:22:38 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Transferring trailers across states. Message-ID: OK, I've got a quick question. I'm in NJ and I have a trailer for sailboat that a guy in NC wants to buy. NJ only requires a "bill of Sale" for trailer registration, but he says that NC requires a title. Any idea how to go about this? I'm trying to sell a project sailboat and he seems interested. BTW, here is a shameless link to the ebay listing of the project sailboat in case anyone else wants to increase their time required in the shop (obshop content!) 8>) > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/79-23-Aquarius-Sailboat-with-dual-axle-trailer-documents-and-clean-titles-/271198705272?_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&forcev4exp=true < It's old, ugly, rough, and dirty... But then again, so am I. 8>0 Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson From strovato at optonline.net Mon Apr 29 20:37:56 2013 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 22:37:56 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Transferring trailers across states. Message-ID: <0MM10000CRCS36D0@mta3.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> I would say he should go to this site: http://www.ncdot.gov/dmv/vehicle/title/vehicles/ and scroll down to the "trailers" section, where it says: "Trailers are registered the same way as a car. Visit the Titles Section for the steps involved in registering a vehicle. Individuals coming from a state that does not title and register trailers would need to contact us." They have a link, phone number and email info there. I don't think this is a situation they haven't dealt with before. -Steve Trovato strovato at optonline.net At 09:22 PM 4/29/2013, eric at megageek.com wrote: >OK, I've got a quick question. I'm in NJ and I have a trailer for >sailboat that a guy in NC wants to buy. > >NJ only requires a "bill of Sale" for trailer registration, but he says >that NC requires a title. From ejrussell at mebtel.net Mon Apr 29 21:47:25 2013 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell) Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 23:47:25 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Transferring trailers across states. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <066E3F0E31EE4C0D89CB1242A6EEED99@EricJRussellPC> When we moved from MA to NC in 2000 I had a homemade car trailer. IIRC, I didn't have a MA title but I did have MA registration. NC issued me a VIN that I had to stamp onto the tongue of the trailer then take it to a DMV office so a State Trooper could inspect the VIN (I was issued a temporary registration & tag - aka license plate - for that purpose). Once thusly inspected I was issued a NC title & registration. Other than having to write a check to the NC DMV it was fairly painless. It seemed like they'd done it all before. Eric Russell Mebane, NC ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, April 29, 2013 9:22 PM Subject: [Shop-talk] Transferring trailers across states. > OK, I've got a quick question. I'm in NJ and I have a trailer for > sailboat that a guy in NC wants to buy. > > NJ only requires a "bill of Sale" for trailer registration, but he says > that NC requires a title. > > Any idea how to go about this? I'm trying to sell a project sailboat and > he seems interested. From markmiller at threeboysfarm.com Mon Apr 29 22:03:17 2013 From: markmiller at threeboysfarm.com (Mark Miller) Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 21:03:17 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] I feel . . . wrong Message-ID: Ok. So my Echo string trimmer was acting up. Seemed like a fuel problem; it would start but not run well, stall out, and needed the throttle and choke played with to keep it going. So I bought fresh gas and went to get a carb rebuild kit for it. The guy also recommended a new fuel filter so I got that as well. Put in fresh gas (the old was probably only 2 months or so but figured it couldn't hurt....) and the filter, gave it a shot and no change. OK, it needs a rebuild. I got too busy so I put it off. Then my wife let me know that I would be feeding the mini-donks and horse if she couldn't get to the shed through the weeds and so to be sure it got done I bought a cheesy little electric B&D string trimmer and (here's the really bad part): it was great. No futzing, weighed way less than the gas trimmer, less buzzy, didn't stink, the string feed is totally automatic and actually worked (no more need to cut pieces and change it all the damn time. Oh yeah, and it starts without having to think about it. But But But I have turned my back on a tool with an engine in place of one with a dinky little electric motor and a cord. Convince me I need to fix the Echo and use a real tool. Help, Mark Miller From fishplate at gmail.com Mon Apr 29 22:08:57 2013 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 00:08:57 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Transferring trailers across states. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Mon, Apr 29, 2013 at 9:22 PM, wrote: > NJ only requires a "bill of Sale" for trailer registration, but he says > that NC requires a title. Others have answered the question, but let me add this anecdote...I sold a VW pickup truck from Georgia to Texas. Georgia only required a bill of sale to transfer ownership of a vehicle that old (1967), but Texas required a title (which I didn't have, and couldn't replace). The buyer and I did a little research, and found that if it was currently registered and had a notarized bill of sale, that was enough to begin the titling process in Texas. So I sold it to my wife for $1, insured it for three days for $10, and registered it for $20. Sent the paperwork to the buyer and he got it done with little trouble. Like the other replies said, they've done this before. You might have to be persistent in finding someone familiar with the process, but it can be done. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From nick at landform.co.uk Tue Apr 30 01:14:54 2013 From: nick at landform.co.uk (nick brearley) Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 08:14:54 +0100 Subject: [Shop-talk] I feel . . . wrong In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <517F6F6E.5050007@landform.co.uk> Mark Miller wrote: > But But I have turned my back on a tool with an engine in place of one > with a dinky little electric motor and a cord. Convince me I need to fix > the Echo and use a real tool. > > No, you did the right thing. Firstly, you're building up spousal credits to be redeemed against some situation lurking unseen in the future. Secondly life is too short to spend time wrestling with that cubic inch of frustration that is the Walbro carburettor. Time that could be spent balancing twin SUs or setting up a threadcutting lathe, something that needs your native skill and cunning. Seriously though I found an electric chainsaw sitting in the back of the barn the other day, cleaned it up and put it to work. Now I use it in preference to the 2 stroke Stihl for small jobs if there's a power supply handy. There's a lot to be said for a machine that starts and stops when you want it and doesn't leave you working in a fug of exhaust fumes. Nick Brearley Two Echo strimmers waiting to be fixed in the corner of the shop. From nick at landform.co.uk Tue Apr 30 01:23:59 2013 From: nick at landform.co.uk (nick brearley) Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 08:23:59 +0100 Subject: [Shop-talk] I feel . . . wrong And another thing. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <517F718F.5070309@landform.co.uk> Mark Miller wrote: > Convince me I need to fix > the Echo and use a real tool. > If you really can't resist, take it to someone with an ultrasonic cleaner. It'll be some of the best dollars you'll ever spend. Nick B From tputland at charter.net Tue Apr 30 11:56:04 2013 From: tputland at charter.net (Tim) Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 13:56:04 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shop-talk] incorrect AN fitting? Message-ID: <55357255.60285e.13e5c164ab1.Webtop.48@charter.net> It looks like the banjo bolt fitting is going to turn out to be for a bigger ID hose....more mis-picked parts on this invoice....bloody hell. On Sun, Apr 28, 2013 at 6:00 PM, Tim wrote: I startrd making fuel lines today and have run into what looks to be an incorrect fitting for stainless steel braided lines. The bottom one is a standard 6AN fitting and looks different than the banjo bolt on top. http://www.flickr.com/photos/82293958 at N06/8690747806/ Does the banjo bolt fitting look like it will work or not? Because the threads are so different, I cannot see how but have not done this before.... Thanks tim From jamesf at groupwbench.org Tue Apr 30 13:10:06 2013 From: jamesf at groupwbench.org (Jim Franklin) Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 15:10:06 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Transferring trailers across states. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <23f68b86b11d5569344711e1d20ba60d.squirrel@webmail.groupwbench.org> > OK, I've got a quick question. I'm in NJ and I have a trailer for > sailboat that a guy in NC wants to buy. > > NJ only requires a "bill of Sale" for trailer registration, but he says > that NC requires a title. The only way I found to sell my untitled MA trailer to my CO needs-title-and-BOS friend was to let her drive it there with my plates. Since the towing vehicle is primarily responsible for insurance, this was mostly a non-issue. jim From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Apr 30 13:31:51 2013 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 19:31:51 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Transferring trailers across states. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20130430193151.BRXY7.136611.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> ---- Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > Like the other replies said, they've done this before. You might have > to be persistent in finding someone familiar with the process, but it > can be done. Sometimes you have to be very persistent. Not the same problem, but when I wanted to register my 56 Triumph TR3 using plates that had been assigned to it in 1963; I wound up having to print out the relevant section of the vehicle code and show it to the clerk and her supervisor at the DMV. Even then they refused to approve my application on the spot, but they did agree to send it to state headquarters in Sacramento, who approved it a few weeks later. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Apr 30 13:46:07 2013 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 19:46:07 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] I feel . . . wrong In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20130430194608.DBRNR.136674.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> ---- Mark Miller wrote: > But But But I have turned my back on a tool with an engine in place of one > with a dinky little electric motor and a cord. Convince me I need to fix > the Echo and use a real tool. Sorry, Mark. I'm as big a fan of Our Lady of Internal Combustion as anyone, but if electric meets your needs better, I'd say go for it. My experience was that the electric trimmer just didn't have what it takes to slash through weeds too thick to walk through (or even see over), so I rebuilt the carb on my old Homelite without a rebuild kit (gaskets cut from construction paper, etc.). But if it had done the job (and I didn't have to drag a cord up a nearly vertical hill), I would have kept using the little electric. It was still handy for trimming around the flower beds and so on. Randall From cavanadd at frontier.com Tue Apr 30 20:02:22 2013 From: cavanadd at frontier.com (Dave C) Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 19:02:22 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] I feel . . . wrong In-Reply-To: <20130430194608.DBRNR.136674.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> References: <20130430194608.DBRNR.136674.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> Message-ID: <518077AE.9030909@frontier.com> I keep my big old bicycle handled Stihl around for murdering brush and high weeks (and the occasional banana slug) but after getting two light duty gas string trimmers that my wife couldn't start, I got her a plug-in Stihl that she's thrilled with. This was after the old yellow single line Weed Eater she inherited from her dad finally bit the dust. Now if she would just put the damn extension cord away.... On 4/30/2013 12:46 PM, Randall wrote: > ---- Mark Miller wrote: > >> But But But I have turned my back on a tool with an engine in place of one >> with a dinky little electric motor and a cord. Convince me I need to fix >> the Echo and use a real tool. > Sorry, Mark. I'm as big a fan of Our Lady of Internal Combustion as anyone, but if electric meets your needs better, I'd say go for it. > > My experience was that the electric trimmer just didn't have what it takes to slash through weeds too thick to walk through (or even see over), so I rebuilt the carb on my old Homelite without a rebuild kit (gaskets cut from construction paper, etc.). But if it had done the job (and I didn't have to drag a cord up a nearly vertical hill), I would have kept using the little electric. It was still handy for trimming around the flower beds and so on. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd at frontier.com